Showing posts with label Carneros. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Carneros. Show all posts

Sunday, September 22, 2024

Exploring wine, birds, and heritage with Meyye Wines

A male Ana's hummingbird I saw in the Superstitions, Arizona
I love exploring California wineries, especially when something new pops up and catches my attention. That was the case immediately with Meyye Wines. And continuing from last week’s post, I wanted to share three wines from this California producer.

The winery pays homage to Rob Campbell’s heritage as a member of the Coastal Miwok/Southern Pomo tribe. Rob started Meyye Wines just two years ago, after working at Story Winery in the Sierra Foothills. The winey focuses on four releases, each from a different area of Northern California.

Meyye is the Coast Miwok word for bird, and as an avid birder, I’m a huge fan of the labels and idea behind each wine. “I’m intentionally using the Coast Miwok language since the language was considered ‘officially dead’ in the past, but my people are making a concerted effort to restore it,” Campbell says.

As you can tell, I value the motivation behind a wine, the story of the people involved, and their aesthetic approach and goals. But the most important factor is the quality of the wine in the glass. And in that realm, Meyye is legit.

Each of the releases I’ve tried blends together accessibility in youth with serious aging potential. You can get a sneak peak of how these wines will perform in the cellar with their 2016 Zin. Crisp, crunchy, integrated, savory, silky, but still so much life and verve for years to come.

If you like California wines with nuance, intrigue, and a great story, Meyye is certainly worth exploring. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2022 Meyye Wines Chardonnay Kuluppis - USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $55
Light yellow color. A fascinating mix of deep and bright aromas (golden apples and pears, lemon zest and orange peel) with plenty of ocean breeze, sea salt, and floral perfume. Delightful creaminess on the palate, with focused acidity, it combines for a balanced and racy wine, with flavors of lemon curd, orange peel, and kiwi. A sense of rushing stream minerals pervades, with talc, seashells, and those richer notes of honey and almond round out the finish. Beautiful stuff to drink now or hold for four or five years. From the Sangiacomo Family’s Kiser Ranch Vineyard, fermented in 50/50 stainless steel and oak, 100% malolactic fermentation and aging in oak. Kuluppis is the Coast Miwok word for the Ana’s hummingbird. (93 points)

2019 Meyye Wines Sokootok - USA, California, Sierra Foothills
SRP: $60
Rich light purple color. Saucy and spicy on the nose, with raspberry jam, tangy plums, blackberry, plenty of roasted red pepper, anise, tobacco, incense, and clove – just a fruity, savory display. Full and ripe on the palate, with smooth tannins and vibrant acidity. Blackberry, cherry jam, roasted figs, the fruit combines so well with the flavors of sauteed portobello mushrooms, black pepper, tobacco, accented with some coffee and dark chocolate. I’d love to see this age over the next five years or so. A delightful, stylish, savory blend of Grenache, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Counoise, Zinfandel, from selected sites in Amador County, this is an exceptional wine to treat like a Chateauneuf-du-Pape and open on a cold night with some savory food and good friends. Sokootok is the Coast Miwok word for the California Quail. (93 points)

2016 Meyye Wines Zinfandel Palachchak - USA, California, Sierra Foothills, California Shenandoah Valley
SRP: $50
Rich purple color. The nose shows a potpourri of savory and floral tones over deep fruit (black cherry, saucy plums, some spiced cranberry relish) with notes of violets, leather, spiced black tea, with some cool barbecue, black pepper, and paprika tones. The palate is suave and juicy with dusty tannins and lively acidity, keeping this wine forward but fresh. Spiced cranberry sauce with mulled black cherries and currants, the fruit is mixed well with complex tones of herbal tea, dried rose petals. There are some cool graphite and mineral tones as well; I love the complexity and subtleties that are coming out as this wine ages. Palachchak is the Coast Miwok word for the California Acorn Woodpecker, one of my favorite birds. 90% Zinfandel and 10% Syrah, 24 months in 40% new American & French oak barrels. (92 points)

Thursday, December 22, 2022

Bouchaine's Exciting Carneros Pinot Noirs

The clonal variability of Pinot Noir is a fascinating thing. The propensity it has to mutate means there are hundreds of clones available, although not all are commercially important.

There’s rarely a single clone that winemakers swear by in all circumstances. Rather, similar to the way a rock climber places specialized protection in particular cracks and fissures, winemakers try to plant the right clone in the right spot to achieve their goals.

Credit: Bouchaine Vineyards
California's Bouchaine knows this process well. In the cooler Carneros region of Napa, Bouchaine has 87 planted acres, more than half of which are planted to Pinot Noir. Different clones in different blocks allows them to craft a diverse palate of Pinot expression.

I recently had the pleasure of tasting through four wines from winemaker and general manager Chris Kajani. The Napa native has been making wine at Bouchaine since 2015, and really knocked it out of the park in 2019. “We’re in the vineyard all the time. I’m there every day,” she described in a recent webinar. “We basically are picking based on taste.” Of course they run tests and check numbers, “but in the grand scheme of things there’s normally a certain flavor that I’m looking for and a certain ripeness to the tannins.”

With slight variations in soils, it gives the clonal uniqueness a chance to shine. “Pinot Noir has more clonal options than any other variety,” Kajani said. “And that’s why Pinot people can’t stop talking about clones. It’s what we do.”

Take the Swan clone, for example, which was planted by old-school Sonoma legend Joseph Swan at the advice of winemaker AndrĂ© Tchelistcheff. He also advised Bouchaine proprietor Tatiana Copeland on planting this clone on the Bouchaine estate. It certainly has found a great home in Bouchaine’s vineyards, as their wine is exquisite.

I tasted through four of Bouchaine’s elegant Pinots, three of which were single-clone bottlings, and the fourth is a blend of different estate clones. They’re individually delicious and very well-made, but collectively they offer a much more nuanced look at this grape and place. Parsing the differences between the three clonal selections, and comparing those to the bigger-picture blend, is a captivating and enjoyable process. And, considering the reasonable prices on these wines, this would be a great way to dig further into Carneros Pinot with a group of wine nerds, family, or friends.

And 2019 is a great vintage to dive into the intricacies in these wines. It’s one of my favorite vintages in Napa and Sonoma in recent memory – plenty of ripeness, but an airy, vibrant quality to many of the wines as well. It’s a vintage that drinks incredibly well right out of the bottle, but a lot of these wines have the stuffing for serious cellar improvement as well.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2019 Bouchaine Pinot Noir Estate Swan Clone - USA, California, Napa, Carneros
SRP: $65
Light ruby color. Such a delight to sniff, it has this vibrant, airy, effortless appeal, with waves of roses, rhubarb, white pepper, along with crunchy cherry, pomegranate and juicy raspberry fruit. Notes of spicy, clay and tilled soil add a lot to ponder. And then the palate hits, which is a bright and spritely show of strawberries, raspberries and tangy red cherry fruit – so alive and zesty. The dusty tannins provide structure, and the balance is delightful. Notes of rhubarb, mint, white pepper, rose hips, clay and some wild herb tones offer a complex, delicious and balanced wine. This is really something – crisp, airy, yet deep and complex. Hat’s off! Aged 10 months in 20% new French oak. (94 points)

2019 Bouchaine Pinot Noir Estate Pommard Clone - USA, California, Napa, Carneros
SRP: $65
Juicy cherry color. The nose shows deep vibes, but it’s also alive and fragrant, with black and red cherries, along with violets, rose petals, some spiced black tea and dusty earth tones. The palate is packed with juicy black cherries and summer plums, with a nice tannic backbone, and a full but fresh appeal. This has a lot of savory goodness, with these bay leaf, mushrooms, pepper and paprika tones, along with complexities of rocky earth, cinnamon, spiced black tea, and light roast coffee. Delicious, deep but vibrant, this should age wonderfully over the coming decade. Aged 10 months in 25% new French oak. (93 points)

2019 Bouchaine Pinot Noir Estate Dijon Clone - USA, California, Napa, Carneros
SRP: $65
Deep ruby color. Aromas pop with juicy black cherries and jammy raspberries, along with a lovely mix of herbal and spice tones (pine, spiced tea, tobacco, cedar), with notes of rhubarb and dried rose petals to round things out. The palate has ripe tannins and tangy acidity, well-balanced, with a mix of juicy black cherries and tangy strawberry fruit. The floral and earthy complexities make for a lot to ponder, as this needs air and swirling, but I love the earthy, peppery tones mixing with the cola and mocha elements. This has a lot to offer now, but I’d let it age gracefully for a few years first. Delicious stuff. The estate boasts five different Dijon clones, and this is made solely of Dijon 667. Aged 10 months in 33% new French oak. (93 points IJB)

2019 Bouchaine Pinot Noir Carneros - USA, California, Napa, Carneros
SRP: $40
Vibrant ruby color. The nose rocks with these chilled strawberry and juicy raspberry aromas, backed up clearly by rhubarb, clove, bay leaf, dried roses and some cola tones. The palate is bright and focused, with lively acidity and tannins that have a fine, lightly dusty feel, combing for a round but fresh Pinot. Cherries, pomegranate and strawberry fruit, ripe but crunchy, with perfumed tones of roses and violets, along with some rhubarb, bay leaf and spicy pepper elements. There’s a lot going on in this wine, especially when you consider the price. This is a great intro to this producer’s style, and a ton of Pinot goodness for your money. (91+ points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Tuesday, August 9, 2022

California’s Lobo Wines and Hawk and Horse

I’m back to California this week with two producers who have some delightful new releases worth sharing.

I’ve been a fan of Lake County’s Hawk and Horse for years, so I was excited to taste their 2019 offerings. Especially considering the winery didn’t produce any wines in 2018 due to wildfires. Luckily, they’re back to form with their consistent, small-lot Bordeaux reds, which are sourced from the winery’s 18-acre estate vineyard, sitting at 1,800 to 2,000 feet with some steep slopes. The rocky, red volcanic soil and terroir here offer a signature fresh acidity that complements the dark fruit and pronounces spice tones very well. If you haven’t ventured far into Lake County wines, this is a great biodynamic producer to get to know.

Earlier this year, I tasted Napa’s Lobo Wines for the first time, and I’m back to check out their new 2019 vintage releases. I’m finding a lot of consistency in quality and deliciousness from this producer. Napa wines are never cheap, but this producer really offers a lot of interesting wines with fun flavors and styles for very reasonable prices.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2019 Lobo Wines Pinot Noir Wulff VineyardsUSA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $50
Deep ruby color. The nose shows a nice mix of sweet plums and black cherries along with tart red currants and cranberry relish, along with savory spices, rose potpourri, some clay and potting soil elements – a lot going on. Suave, full but fresh on the palate with smooth tannins and moderate acidity, with flavors of tart cranberry relish and juicy red cherries. Tones of cinnamon, rose hips, rhubarb, clay, spicy pepper. Very pretty, nuanced, should show a lot of exciting development the next three to five years. (91 points)

2019 Lobo Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Wulff VineyardsUSA, California, Napa Valley, Atlas Peak
SRP: $105
Deep purple color. Ooh, such a deep and saucy nose, with a compote of plums, blackberry, and complex tones of mocha, spiced black tea, gravelly earth and warm, sun-roasted herbs. The palate is full but vibrant with grippy but chewy tannins and lively acidity, with bold but tart blackberry, currant and plum fruit. Notes of earth, tar, chewing tobacco, they add complexity and depth, nuanced cedar and mocha elements. This will age wonderfully. (93 points)

2019 Lobo Wines Merlot Wulff VineyardsUSA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $70
Vibrant purple color. Aromas of cherries and tart currants, plum sauce, with violets and graphite, along with tilled soil, coffee grounds – a lot going on here. The palate shows suave tannins, moderate acidity, a velvety and balanced appeal here. Tangy black and red currant fruit mixed with complexities of black tea, pepper, rosemary and thyme. Intriguing stuff that should age nicely for a solid bunch of years to come. (91 points)

2019 Lobo Wines Howl Wulff VineyardsUSA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $70
Vibrant purple color. Smells delightful, with plum and black cherry compote, so spicy and fun, with pepper, paprika, campfire and mesquite. The palate is full with a nice grip, smooth edges to the tannins, buttressed by vibrant acidity, well-balanced. The plum and tart blueberry fruit is delicious, with notes of tar, anise, mesquite, violets. There are some stony, mineral and earth tones to spare. Love the freshness – and this will age nicely. Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. (92 points)

2019 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Petit VerdotUSA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $65
Dark purple color. A deep core of roasted figs, plum sauce, along with charcoal, graphite, tilled soil, coffee grounds, violets – needs air to coax out the depths. The palate shows a solid core of roasted figs and currant paste, grippy tannins, moderate acidity, impressive balance and complexity. Cool mix of spicy and refreshing elements, and I get a lot of mesquite, tar, graphite, roasted red peppers and gravelly earth. A long-ager for sure. Don’t be scared of PV – this is delicious stuff! All Petit Verdot aged in 100% French oak. (91 points)

2019 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Petite SirahUSA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $65
Deep purple color. The nose shows a nice mix of tangy plums and blueberries, with spicy pepper, anise, some coffee, toffee and mocha. Nice grip on the palate but the tannins have these suave edges and the acidity is really nice, balancing out the deep plum and currant fruit. Notes of black olive, tar, mocha, black pepper and bell pepper add complexity, and I love the deep, earthy, mineral and stony vibes in here. There’s a ton of freshness in here for a Petite Sirah. This puppy will age wonderfully. All PS aged in all French oak. (91 points)

2019 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Cabernet SauvignonUSA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $75
Medium purple color. Deep but tart aromas of blueberry and black cherries, with complex, deep and spicy tones: tar, mocha, sage, sweet red pepper, black pepper and balsamic glaze. The palate is full but smooth and, like the others, this wine’s acidity is really nice. Tangy plums and juicy black currant fruit blends well with leather, paprika, black pepper, spicy tobacco, mint. A lot going on, and I’d like to see this in five or six years. Cab Sauv with 2% Petit Verdot, aged in 100% French oak. (92 points)

2019 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Cabernet FrancUSA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $65
Deep purple color. The nose sports mulled cherries and deep currant fruit, with a spicy mix of anise, black pepper, tar, leather and espresso. Full but fresh, this shows solid grip but smooth edges to the tannins and moderate acidity. The fig paste and cranberry relish fruit is delicious, and it’s backed up with tar, anise, cocoa, sweet bell pepper, chewing tobacco and some black olive. Really fun and lively but also pretty, complex and age-worthy. All Cab Franc aged in 100% French oak. (91 points)

Friday, January 10, 2020

Blind-Tasting some California Pinot Noirs

Happy New Year, all! 

I’m back to start off the new year with a bunch of California Pinot Noirs. In the fall, I started receiving a lot of California Pinots and Chardonnays. I don’t often get to do comparative blind tastings, so I was excited to collect them and taste through them. (The Chardonnay report can be found here.)

This is a nice mix of inexpensive, widely-available brands, with some single-vineyard, smaller production stuff.

J Vineyards’ Sonoma Pinots provide wines that deliver a great classic cherry and cola goodness that I’ve grown to love.

The Maggy Hawk wines are all really exciting, and stood out with their finesse and elegance. These wines are made by Pinot Noir veteran winemaker Tony Rynders, and all sourced from the same vineyard. Each of the four wines, however, is a blend of different blocks and clones. These are really interesting wines that I’d recommend seeking out if you like Anderson Valley Pinot.

The full report is below. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted single blind.

2018 Lucky Rock Wine Co. Pinot Noir - California
SRP: $22
Nose pops with sweet cherries, strawberry jam, along with rhubarb, rose petals and cola. Light and smooth tannins on the palate, there’s a nice streak of acid that makes this refreshing to drink. Tangy cherries, sweet raspberries and strawberries, this is a fun and accessible wine with notes of rhubarb, cola, toffee. There are these cool earthy and cinnamon stick notes. Fun, fresh, delightful style, solid value. A mix of fruit from Monterey, San Benito and Sonoma Counties, aged nine months in 10% new French oak. (87 points)

2017 The Paring Pinot Noir - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $25
Aromas show black cherries, dark plums, raspberries, with these notes of warm black tea, clove, rose potpourri, some coconut and coffee. Wow, this has a lot of freshness on the palate, medium-bodied frame, smooth tannins, this is a fruit-forward but fresh Pinot. Plums, black cherries, saucy raspberries, the fruit is rich but vibrant. Coffee, vanilla and coconut shavings mix with tilled soil, black tea and rose petals, some mineral, rocky tones. This is fun stuff for near-term drinking, but it shows a lot of complexity (and value), too. For a wine at this price point, this style is rare. (89 points)

2016 Talbott Pinot Noir Sleepy Hollow Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
SRP: $50
Smells like fresh cranberries, strawberries, strawberries, red apple peel, with rhubarb, white pepper, black tea notes. Medium/full-bodied, smooth tannins, medium acidity, balanced nicely. A core of raspberries and spiced cranberry jam, the fruit is bold and ripe but pretty, too. Nuanced notes of rose petals, rhubarb, white pepper and bay leaf. Cola and roasted chestnut elements mix well with the savory, floral tones. Quite complex, very delicious, open for business now but this could hold for a few years. (90 points)

2017 Steele Wines Pinot Noir Writer's Block - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $18
Aromas of spicy strawberries and raspberries, with pepper, cola, rose hips, leather and earth. Medium-bodied with silky tannins and a fresh, zippy appeal. Sweet cherries and raspberry jam mixes well with nuanced notes of cola, pepper, roses, bay leaf. Has a lot of fun spice and herbal tones to accent the fruit. Ready to drink, but a lot going on. Aged 12 months in 10% new French oak. (89 points)

2018 Clos Pegase Pinot Noir Mitsuko's Vineyard - California, Napa, Carneros
SRP: $40
Nose shows pretty red cherries, chilled strawberries and raspberries, with rose potpourri, pepper, sage, slight cola note. Brisk and mouthwatering acidity, this holds its full body well, with smooth tannins, lovely balance. Cool cherries, raspberries and red apple fruit. Complex notes of bay leaf, rose petal, sage and pepper, all of which add a vibrant, floral and earth sense to accent the red fruits. Delicious stuff, ready to go. Aged nine months in 30% new French oak. (90 points)

2017 Maggy Hawk Pinot Noir Jolie - California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $65

Deep cherry and raspberry aromas, with a complex blend of rose petals, tobacco leaf, smoky, earthy tones, but also airy, lifted notes. Crisp acidity frames the wine nicely, medium/full-bodied, serious grip on tannins, but this is really well-balanced. Bright strawberries, raspberries and cherries, gorgeous, concentrated fruit, yet so lively. Notes of clove, cola, earth, wild herbs add complexity. I’d love to see what this does in five years. Made from their estate vineyard Block 9, aged 15 months in 45% new French oak. (93 points) 

2017 Maggy Hawk Pinot Noir Unforgettable - California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $65
Gorgeous nose of cherries and strawberries, deep yet vibrant, with roses, pepper, earth, coffee. Nice grip on the palate, but rounded edges, full but balanced. Deep black cherry fruit, cranberry relish, along with complex elements of roasted chestnut, clove, warm clay, coffee. Lovely depth and concentration, but vibrancy is there, too. This could use four to five years and should improve for longer. A blend of Blocks 6 and 13 (vinified separately), aged 15 months in 43% new French oak. (92 points)

2017 Maggy Hawk Pinot Noir Stormin' - California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $65
Aromas of cranberries and cherries, and there’s a lot of spicy herbal tones, rose petals, black tea, along with warm clay and earth. Medium/full-bodied with bright acidity, and moderate grip on the tannins, but no harsh edges — this has lovely balance. Crunchy cranberries, black cherries, wild raspberries, the fruit is laced with smoky earth, pepper, paprika and rose petals. Lovely, fresh, vibrant yet structured well; this should improve with three to four years of cellaring. From Blocks 15 and 13, aged in 43% new French oak. (93 points)

2017 Maggy Hawk Pinot Noir Afleet - California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $65
Smells of wild raspberries, red cherries and cranberries, along with rose petals, menthol, mint, with spiced tea and earth. Medium/full-bodied with suave tannins and fresh acidity, this is smooth and juicy, vibrant but velvety. Cranberries, wild raspberries, strawberries, deep yet pretty fruit, laced with cola, rhubarb, earth, roasted chestnut, mint. Lots of complexity and elegance already, but I’d love to see this in two or three years. From Blocks 6, 7 and 9, aged in 27% new French oak. (92 points)

2018 Cline Cellars Pinot Noir - California, Sonoma County
SRP: $20
Aromas of fresh cherries and strawberry jam, with sweet cola, roses, spicy rhubarb, white pepper and bay leaf tones. Medium/full-bodied, soft tannins, moderate acidity, with sweet black cherries, currants, with strawberry jam. Mixed with mocha, coffee and vanilla elements. A ripe, juicy, accessible, crowd-pleasing style for early consumption. Aged five to ten months in 40% new French oak. (86 points)

2018 Pfendler Vineyards Pinot Noir - California, Sonoma County, Petaluma Gap
SRP: $55
On the nose, I get a huge (and pleasant) kick of earth and spice, like potting soil, paprika, black pepper, on top of sweet roses and suave black cherries and strawberries. Full-bodied but holds it well, chewy tannins, medium+ acidity. Smooth black cherries, raspberries and strawberries, the fruit blends well with elements of roses, tobacco, and a cool, herbal, brothy tone. Good amount of oak and vanilla, but it’s woven in well, and doesn’t dominate. Fun, yummy, but elegant stuff. Aged 14 months in 50% new French oak. (90 points)

2017 Gary Farrell Pinot Noir Russian River Selection - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $45
Aromas of juicy strawberries, raspberries, black cherries, along with violets, cola, rhubarb and coffee. Medium-bodied, velvety tannins, moderating acidity. The fruit is forward and joyful, with raspberries, strawberry jam, cherry cheesecake topping. I get notes of rhubarb, cola, mint chocolate chip. Ripe and fun, but lively and vibrant, too. Aged 10 months in 35% new French oak. (88 points)

2016 J Vineyards & Winery Pinot Noir - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $40

Aromas pop with ripe black cherries and strawberries, along with rose hips, rhubarb, clove, bold fruit but nice and spicy, too. Full but smooth on the palate with medium acidity, silky tannins, lots of cherries and strawberry preserves, tart/sweet cranberry relish. Lots of deliciousness but also a good amount of pepper, clove, black tea and tar. Nuanced cola and cedar mix in well. Aged nine months in 30% new French oak. (89 points)

2016 J Vineyards & Winery Pinot Noir Strata - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $55
Smells of chilled strawberries, raspberries, red cherries and pomegranate, and a nice mix of spicy pepper, paprika, violets and cedar. Warm and inviting on the palate, slightly chewy tannins, vibrant and fresh too. Black cherries, strawberries, pomegranate, with notes of cola, spiced black tea, pepper and roses, some coffee and cedar. Rich and voluptuous, but lively, too. Aged 13 months in 35% new French oak. (91 points) 

2016 J Vineyards & Winery Pinot Noir Canfield - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $75
Inviting and complex nose of roses, violets, tea leaves, clove, cola, on top of lots of raspberries, red cherries and cranberry. Full-bodied, smooth but structured, fresh acidity, the balance is quite nice. Juicy strawberries, chilled raspberries, pretty fruit, and I get accents of roses, tilled soil, and some underlying earth, mineral, rocky elements. Lively, spicy, tasty stuff that could improve over the next few years. Aged 14 months in 38% new French oak. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Monday, December 16, 2019

Blind Tasting Some New California Chardonnays

It’s been a while since I’ve focused exclusively on California Chardonnay, so I’m excited to delve back in. 

The breadth of different styles is what always keeps me coming back to Cali Chards. No matter how California Chardonnay is generalized as a category, there are so many wines that do their own thing, buck the trend.

I don’t curate the wines I receive, so while my personal favorites aren’t featured here, I think this is a solid group. 

Ramey comes in with four different single-vineyard wines, each of which stood out. It’s interesting, as all four of these wines are treated the same in the cellar: native yeast fermentation, full maloactic fermentation in barrel, with battonage, aged about 20 months in 20% new French oak. They’re all 14.5% alcohol, too. They all rock a similar tune while showing nuanced harmonies of their vineyard site. Smith-Madrone comes through with a killer Spring Mountain Chard, again. And some less expensive wines like The Paring show that there’s still value to be found in Cali Chard. 

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted single-blind. 


2016 Talbott Chardonnay Sleepy Hollow Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
SRP: $42
Aromas of ripe pears and yellow apples, topped in cinnamon, nougat, salted peanuts. Ripe and juicy on the palate but lively acidity. Creamy apples and pears, lemon curd, juicy fruit but well balanced, too. Nougaty, honeyed tea, cream, but also some floral perfume and chalk dust. Fun stuff, but showing some complexity, too. Aged 10 months in 40% new French oak, 14.1% alcohol. (89 points) 


2017 The Paring Chardonnay - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $25
The nose shows green apples, white peach, limes, with chalky notes, peanut shell, white flowers. Medium-bodied, plush texture, crisp acidity, it’s framed well with nuanced, tangy fruit (green and yellow apples, apricot). Notes of sea salt, chalk dust, minerals, they blend well with these honey, ginger and chestnut elements. Delicious, vibrant style but significant complexity. Aged 1/3 in used French oak, 1/3 new French oak, 1/3 stainless steel,1/3 malolactic fermentation. (90 points)


2016 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay - California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $40
Nuanced aromas of honey, warm tea, almond, with sea salt, crushed chalk, yellow apples and pears. Full but integrated so well, with deep texture, but this racy acidity that keeps it bright and lofty. Glazed apples, candied orange peel, lemon, the fruit mixes well with these salty, chalky, rocky, mineral elements. Lovely stuff that should age wonderfully. From their dry-farmed vineyard, barrel-fermented, aged nine months in 80% new French oak. 14.4% alcohol. (93 points)


2018 Clos Pegase Chardonnay Mitsuko's Vineyard - California, Napa Valley, Carneros
SRP: $30
Nose of apricot and orange marmalade, whipped honey, graham cracker, yellow flowers. Lush texture, full and smooth, but moderate acidity keeps it lively. Hedonistic fruit (glazed pear, orange marmalade, pineapple), with honey, almond cake, vanilla. But there’s also brighter elements of honeysuckle, river rocks and green tea. Lovely depth, very delicious. Aged nine months in 30% new French oak, 14.6% alcohol. (90 points) 


2018 Pfendler Vineyards Chardonnay -
SRP: $45
Bold nose of ginger, spiced tea, honey, candle wax, nutmeg, oCalifornia, Sonoma Coast, Petaluma Gapn top of lemon cake and yellow apple. Juicy and ripe on the palate with plump apricot, bruised yellow apple, and lots of ginger, cinnamon crumb cake. Rich style, but there’s a nice streak of acid and some lime and mineral tones. Aged 14 months in 50% new French oak. 14.2% alcohol. (88 points) 


2018 Cline Cellars Chardonnay Estate - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $13
On the nose, I get a nice mix of toasted nuts, honey, with candied lemon, orange peel. Medium/full-bodied, smooth texture, lively acidity. A bright lemon/orange peel element, with apricot, marmalade and peach. The fruit mixes with toasted nuts, honeycomb. There’s also this floral, perfumed, minty quality, with vanilla and ginger snap notes. I was surprised to see the price point here, because it offers a lot for the money. 60% maloactic fermentation, aged four months in French oak. (87 points)


2016 Ramey Chardonnay Rochioli Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $65
Creamy, inviting nose of buttered pears, yellow apples, with lots of honey, ginger, peanut shell, nougat, some floral perfume. Full and suave with plump texture but vibrant, lip-smacking acidity, and the balance is superb. Apples, pears, orange marmalade, with lots of complex elements of biscuits, peanut brittle. There are also these really lively mountain stream and mineral elements. Delicious, fascinating stuff, a standout in the tasting. A stunner that I’d love to age for five years. Aged 20 months in 21% new French oak. (94 points) 


2016 Ramey Chardonnay Woolsey Road Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $65
The nose shows a bright burst of lime, lemon curd, apricot, along with sea spray, and subtle nutty, waxy, honeyed elements. Crisp acid frames the wine nicely against the plush texture, deep but stays so lively. Green apples, lemon curd, apricot, lush but vibrant, with sea salt, crushed chalk and oyster shell notes that are really delicious. The nutty, almond, ginger snap elements blend in smoothly. I’d love to see this in three to five years. Old Wente clone Chardonnay, aged 19 months in 20% new French oak. (93 points) 


2016 Ramey Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard - California, Napa, Carneros
SRP: $65
An aromatic burst of yellow apples and pears, with honey, candle wax, candied ginger, white flowers, lots going on. Plump texture, creamy and lush, but the acidity keeps this bright, too. Lemon curd, key lime pie and yellow pear fruit, topped in sea salt, minerals, a crisp streak of those elements, but also buttered biscuits with honey and almond, too. Gorgeous stuff, tons of depth, but also so precise. Aged 20 months in 22% new French oak. (94 points) 


2016 Ramey Chardonnay Ritchie Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $65
The nose shows lots of apricot, yellow apples and lime, with honeycomb, ginger snap cookies, coffee cake, but also these breezy, airy, floral elements as well. Lush texture on the palate but precise acidity, intriguing balance. Lemon and lime meringue, apricot and green apple (gorgeous fruit). The notes of peanut brittle and ginger snap mix well with the sea salt, chalk and yellow flower tones. Complex, harmonious, this could really age well, too. Aged 20 months in 18% new French oak. (93 points)







This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Saturday, June 8, 2019

Wine Reviews: New Releases from California

This week I have a big bundle of new releases from all over California.

Amici Cellars has been around for years, and I’ve found them to be a source of consistent, moderately-priced staples like Russian River Pinot and Napa Sauvignon Blanc. Their sister label Olema focuses on value-driven wines, and they’re quite good for the price.

Sonoma’s Jordan Winery comes through again with their Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, while Napa stalwart Shafer comes out swinging with their 2017 Red Shoulder Ranch Chardonnay.

I also tasted a handful of wines from Morgan, which began back in 1982. Sourcing fruit from the Santa Lucia Highlands and Monterey, these wines offer lots of juicy fruit but show elegance and freshness as well. And they really deliver for the price. A few wines from FEL, Mi Sueno and Luck Rock Wine Co. round out this report.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.


SRP: $17
Medium straw color. Aromatically popping with lemon, ruby red grapefruit, kiwi, and notes of lemongrass, magnolia and mint. Medium-bodied, fresh and zippy on the palate but some nice creaminess. A fresh fruit salad of green melon, ruby red grapefruit, peaches and lime, accented with notes of mint, wildflowers and clover. The fruit and floral/herbal tones are balanced together very nicely. A lot of personality and depth, especially for the price. Blended from Lake and Napa County fruit aged French oak. (88 points)

2017 Morgan Sauvignon Blanc - California, Central Coast, Monterey
SRP: $18
Pale lemon color. Nose pops with lemons, limes, grapefruit and guava, along with lemongrass and mint. A nice bit of creaminess on the palate, but this is super bright and brisk with lemon, guava, melon, peaches, along with cut flower stems, white pepper, honeysuckle and clover. Fresh, zippy, fun stuff, quite complex for the price. All Musqué clone, this wine is aged five months in 10% new French oak. (87 points)

2018 Amici Cellars Sauvignon Blanc - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $25
Pale straw color. The nose displays lemon curd, white peaches, mango, along with clover flower, honeysuckle and lemon verbena. Peachy, fun, fruity with lemon and mango, backed by zesty acidity. The fruit is accented with notes of lemon verbena, clover, honeysuckle, and I get some mineral and chalk dust elements. Finishes with spicy floral and honeyed tones. Includes 4% Semillon, 12% of the wine is barrel-fermented. (89 points)

2018 FEL Pinot Gris - California, Mendocino County, Anderson Valley
SRP: $25
Rich yellow color. The nose is super peachy with limes and yellow apples, lots of flowers and green herbs. The palate is framed with zippy acidity, medium body, some creamy texture, with lemon, lime, peach fruit. Lots of flowers, white tea, chalk, stony tones, adding all sorts of complexity. It has this mineral, lifted quality that reminds me of Alto Adige, but it has this juiciness that is pure California. A really delicious and interesting Pinot Gris. (90 points)

2017 Morgan Chardonnay Metallico - California, Central Coast, Monterey 
SRP: $22
Light yellow color. Aromas of peaches, lemon-lime, notes of verbena, white pepper, it’s very bright, floral and spicy. Bright acidity frames the palate nicely, this is very crisp and bright but has some nice depth of texture. Lemons, limes, peaches, topped in hay, white pepper, honeycomb and white tea. Notes of seashells and wild herbs add complexity. Fresh, fun, lean and brisk style, which is really refreshing. All stainless steel, no maloactic fermentation, 13.5% alcohol. (87 points)

2017 Morgan Chardonnay Highland - California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
SRP: $28

Medium yellow color. The nose shows sea spray, crushed shells, peanut shells, hay and white flowers on top of lemon crème and yellow apples. The palate boasts crisp, nervy acidity with lively, lip-smacking acidity and creamy texture. Apples, lemon curd and apricot mix nicely with salted nuts, honeycomb, white flowers. There’s a salty, crushed seashell, mountain stream essence that is so good. Balanced, lively, flavorful, so good for the money. Aged eight months in about 30% new French oak, 75% maloactic fermentation. (91 points)

2017 Amici Cellars Chardonnay Olema - California, Sonoma County
SRP: $16
Light gold color. Aromas of apricot, white peach, glazed pear, with some nougat and honeycomb elements. Medium-bodied, juicy but bright, with pleasant creaminess and moderating acidity. Glazed pears, apricot, lemon curd, and the fruit mixes with notes of sea salt, honeyed tea, almond brittle. There is a lot of vibrancy and deliciousness in here for a wine of the price. (87 points)

2016 Amici Cellars Chardonnay - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $25
Bright yellow color. All sorts of color and variety of apples on the nose, along with ginger, cinnamon, vanilla, nougat, some salty, oceanic notes. Plump and texturally rich but shows some restraint; it’s creamy but zesty, with bruised apple, orange marmalade and lemon pie. Notes of sea salt, crushed shells, almond skin, floral potpourri and ginger. Lots of texture and richness but it’s balanced very well. Very good Sonoma Chardonnay for the price. (89 points)

2017 Jordan Vineyard & Winery Chardonnay - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $34
Golden yellow color. Aromas of rich yellow apples, apricot and orange marmalade, notes of salted almonds and peanuts, hay, ocean spray. A plush texture on the palate, but a lot of fresh acidity. Lemon, yellow apple, apricot, along with notes of sea salt, almond, peanut brittle, honey. All sorts of fresh, floral, salty complexities in here. Rich but balanced, a lovely Russian River Chard, especially given the moderate price. 13.6% alcohol, aged six months in 100% new French oak. (90 points)

2017 Shafer Chardonnay Red Shoulder Ranch - California, Napa, Carneros
SRP: $52
Rich gold color. Bold aromas of pineapple, honey, vanilla, almond cake, walnuts, all sorts of rich and exotic flavors but it’s fresh and vibrant too with lemon crème, apricot and glazed pears. Full-bodied on the palate (14.9% alcohol) with plenty of textural depth (honeyed, waxy elements), yet the underlying crispness and vibrancy is unmistakable. Yellow plums, bruised apples, lemon crème, mixed with walnuts, salted almonds, honey and hay. There are underlying elements of mineral notes, crushed shells, it adds all sorts of complexity. Wow. Bold yet balanced, such an expressive and complex Chardonnay. Aged 14 months in 75% new French oak and 25% stainless steel. (93 points)

Red wines

2017 Amici Cellars Pinot Noir Olema - California, Sonoma County
SRP: $20
Medium ruby color. Nose boasts juicy raspberries, jammy cherries and plums, with cola, cedar, red licorice candies. Plump and juicy on the palate, a medium-bodied frame with light tannins and medium acidity. Cherries, raspberries and plums, this is fun and fruit-focused, with notes of spiced tea, cola, cedar. It’s not too rich or baked, and while super fruity, it stays food-friendly and fresh. A solid California Pinot for $20, which ain’t easy to come by. (87 points)

2017 Amici Cellars Pinot Noir - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $40
Deep ruby color. The nose shows spiced cranberry sauce, raspberries and strawberries, along with a nice mix of rhubarb, pepper, cola and cedar. Medium/full-bodied with soft tannins and some medium acidity. Juicy cherries, raspberries, strawberry jam, with flavors of cola, rhubarb, rose potpourri, menthol and cinnamon. Accessible and fun but this has some solid depth. Highly delicious. Stainless steel fermented aged in French oak 13 months. (88 points)

2017 FEL Pinot Noir - California, Mendocino County, Anderson Valley
SRP: $38
Bright ruby color. Bold but inviting aromatic display of rose petals, violets, white pepper and clove on top of juicy raspberries and red plums. Bold but suave on the palate with velvety tannins, vibrant acidity, and lots of raspberries, red and black cherries. Fresh and bright but a lot of spicy, herbal tones (clove, pepper), and already showing some mushroom and broth and earthy tones. Juicy but elegant, this should show even more earthy, savory goodness in a few years. Loving this style. Aged 16 months in 36% new French oak. (91 points)

2017 Morgan Pinot Noir Twelve Clones - California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
SRP: $35
Deep ruby color. Nose shows juicy cherries, raspberries, red plums, and a nice mix of herbal tea, tobacco, spicy pepper, rose petals. Full-bodied but fresh on the palate with smooth tannins, medium acidity and a velvety, attractive texture. Plums, cherries and strawberry jam, laced with an interesting mix of roasted red peppers, tobacco, cola, candied apple, savory broth notes. Very cool stuff with a dynamic combination of flavors. Aged 10 months in 40% new French oak. (89 points)

2017 Morgan Cotes du Crow's - California, Central Coast, Monterey
SRP: $20
Light purple color. Bright nose of cherries, raspberries, plums, with a lot of smoky-herbal notes, leather and violets. Full but suave on the palate with a velvety feel and refreshing acidity. Tangy plums and black cherries mixed with spiced tea, cocoa, earth, violets, clove. Juicy, fun and barbecue-friendly but complex, earthy and vibrant, too. 56% Grenache, 37% Syrah, 7% Tempranillo, aged 10 months in 10% new French oak. (88 points)

2017 Morgan Syrah G17 - California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
SRP: $25
Deep purple color. The nose pops with tangy black cherries and dark plus, loaded with black pepper, leather, cocoa, scorched earth and graphite. Full but fresh on the palate with dusty tannins and bright acidity. Dark cherries and plums mix nicely with flavors of peppercorns, leather, cocoa, earth, and underlying notes of minerals and loamy soil. Lovely, accessible stuff, but it could also improve for a few years. Really solid value here. Includes 5% Grenache, 5% Tempranillo, aged 10 months in 25% new French oak. (90 points)

2015 Jordan Vineyard & Winery Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley
SRP: $57
Medium purple color. Aromas of black cherries, plums, cassis, with roasted herbs and tobacco, and I get some coffee, menthol and mint chocolate chip notes as well. Smoothed out tannins on the palate but still nicely built, fresh acidity frames the wine well. Tangy black currants, plums and black cherries, the fruit is pure and lively, and backed up by complex notes of anise, mint, eucalyptus, earthy, tobacco and sweet vanilla. Smooth yet still young, this is coming together nicely but has many years of development ahead. Includes 15% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot; 2% Malbec, aged 13 months in 47% new French oak. (91 points)

2015 Mi Sueño Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $75
Dark purple color. Nose boasts jammy black cherries and cassis, topped in sweet vanilla coffee, anise and cocoa powder. Full and chewy but velvety with medium/low acidity on the palate, and lots of black cherries and blackberries, juicy and full fruit. Notes of cocoa, clove, coffee, vanilla and cedar. Rich and velvety and delicious but nice depth and complexity, too, with a spicy, minty finish. Should improve over the next few years. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon (mostly from Coombsville vineyards) aged 22 months in 65% new French oak. (88 points)

Wednesday, May 8, 2019

Wine Reviews: California New Releases

This week, I’ve got another roundup of new releases from all over California.

I recently tasted two new releases (an Albarino and a Gamay Noir) from Eighty Four wines. This Shafer side project, based in Carneros and named after the year in which Doug Shafer and winemaker Elias Fernandez began working together, has impressed me in the past, and these two wines continue that trend.

Well-known producer
Cliff Lede’s new Sauv Blanc and Cab Sauv have a lot to offer, while Frank Family’s new Carneros Pinot and Chard consistently deliver.

South African-born winemaker Graham Weerts, who now makes his home in Sonoma, produced two solid wines under the
Legacy label. And a few exciting wines from Lodi make an appearance in this report as well, including a thrilling, old-vine Carignan.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

Whites


2018 Beckmen Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc - California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
SRP: $20
Pale straw color. Nose shows lemon, grapefruit, along with verbena, lemongrass, musk, sea salt and light perfume. Lovely texture on the palate with vibrant acidity, and integrated creamy and honeyed lemons. Lemon, cantaloupe, green apples, the fruit is mixed with lemongrass, green onion and verbena, but this notes accent, they don’t dominate. Lovely Sauv Blanc for the price. All stainless steel, no maloactic fermentation. (88 points)


2018 Acquiesce Ingenue - California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $32
Light straw color. The nose is super tropical with white peaches, pineapple, papaya, lots of baby’s breath, honeysuckle and sliced cucumber notes as well. Crisp and bright on the palate with a nice mix of papaya, peaches, drizzled in lime. I get strong floral perfume, nettle, wild greed herb notes, too. Fun, fresh, with a crisp, spicy, salad-friendly appeal. 35% Grenache blanc, 35% Clairette Blanche, 20% Bourboulenc, 10% Piquepoul. (87 points)


2018 Cliff Lede Sauvignon Blanc - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $25
Light yellow color. A burst of aromas: lime, apricot, white peach, with salted almond, honeysuckle, chalk dust. On the palate, this is lively but creamy, with bright acidity supporting deep texture. The fruit (orange, apricot, lemon) is infused with some honeysuckle, sea salt, oyster shell – a really cool combo. The green elements in some Sauv Blancs are dialed back, and the pure, mineral, brightness really shines through, this is a beautiful Napa Sauv Blanc, and really exciting for the price. Fermented in a mix of French oak, stainless steel and concrete eggs, this includes 10% SĂ©millon, 3% Sauvignon Vert. (91 points)


2018 Eighty Four Wines Albariño - California, Napa, Carneros
SRP: $28
Light yellow color. Lively aromas of yellow flowers, honey, sea salt, with lemon, apricot and white peach. Medium+ bodied, really fresh and inviting with pleasant texture and crisp, lip-smacking acidity. Lemon curd, apricot and white peach fruit mixes nicely with chalk dust, salted almond, hints of mint and basil. Lovely depth yet this is s vibrant and gluggable, a great wine to drink all Spring and Summer. This spends four months on the lees in stainless steel (no oak, no maloactic fermentation). (89 points)


2017 Frank Family Vineyards Chardonnay - California, Napa/Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $38
Rich yellow color. Aromas of lemon curd, apricot jam, baked apple, with nougat, honey, salted almond and fresh biscuits. Juicy and plum on the palate with rich texture and medium acidity. Flavors of glazed pear, apricot, orange marmalade, along with notes of almonds, sea salt, honey butter, biscuits and ginger. Warm yet fresh, bold but nuanced. A fine Carneros Chardonnay, as to be expected from Frank Family. Aged nine months in a third new French oak. (90 points)


2015 Legacy Chardonnay - California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley
SRP: $75
Rich, almost neon color. Nose of buttered popcorn, peanut shells, on top of baked apple, orange marmalade, with ginger, almond cake, sea salt notes. Rich, bold, waxy, honeyed, this is full-throttle in style, but it has freshness underneath, too. Warm and nutty with buttered popcorn, salted almond, peanut brittle, with apricot and yellow apple fruit. Big and luscious but well-made with underlying perfume and floral notes. Fermented and aged 12 months in French oak, 37% new. (89 points) 

Reds


2016 Prie Vineyards Carignane Ancient Vine Spenker Ranch Vineyards - California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $29
Bright ruby color. Gorgeous nose: raspberries, red cherries, strawberries, topped in spiced tea, rhubarb, clay, dusty earth, an elegant, evolving aromatic display. Medium/full-bodied with smooth tannins and vibrant acidity, the balance is lovely. Strawberries, cherries, raspberries, crunchy yet deep fruit with elements of spiced tea, rhubarb, anise, tilled soil, herbs and rose petals. Complex, elegant, wow, this is really impressive stuff. (92 points)

2016 Mettler Family Vineyards Pinotage - California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $25
Bright purple color. Nose shows saucy black cherries, roasted plums, raspberry jam with anise, sweet chai, dark chocolate. On the palate, this is velvety and smooth with fresh acidity and tart but sweet fruit (fig paste, roasted plums, black cherry jam), with anise, earth and cedar notes. This is fun, juicy, spicy stuff, and a rare iteration of California Pinotage that is worth checking out. (87 points)


2017 Eighty Four Wines Gamay Noir - California, Napa Valley, Carneros
SRP: $35
Deep ruby color. Aromas of raspberries, fresh cherries, along with violets, spiced tea, clove, earthy-charcoal notes. Full-bodied (14.9%) with dusty, smooth tannins and refreshing acidity. The fruit is ripe and juicy (raspberries, black cherries), and touched with notes of miner, violets, earth, along with some cola and birch notes. Lots of fun, but the complexity and depth are in here, too. I’m a big supported of American growers working with Gamay, and it seems this producer has found quite the spot for it. The first vintage of this wine, and they’re off to a great start. Aged 14 months in 40% new French oak barrels. (90 points)


2017 Frank Family Vineyards Pinot Noir - California, Napa/Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $38
Deep ruby color. Nose of raspberries, cherries, plums, juicy and rich but spicy and lively, too, along with notes of clove, rose petals, rhubarb, cola and cedar woven in well. Full but fresh on the palate with velvety tannins and moderating acidity. Juicy raspberry, red plum, cherry pie, rich fruit but lively and nuanced. Notes of rhubarb, violets, clove, cola and spiced black tea. Velvety and fruit-forward, but also nicely balanced and integrated. Aged 10 months in one-third new French oak. (90 points)


2016 Rombauer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $65
Bright purple color. Aromas of juicy, warm black cherries and cassis, laced with lavender, clove, coffee, earth, touched with cedar and vanilla. Full-bodied with a velvety, slightly chewy mouthfeel, but clean, refreshing acidity keeps it lively. Cassis, black cherries and plums are mixed with a good amount of espresso, mint, lavender, bay leaf scorched earth – really nice mix of flavors. An underlying rocky/mineral element underneath, rich but lively. Drinking well now but could age. Includes 8% Petit Verdot and 5% Cabernet Franc, aged 16 months in 80% new French oak. (90 points)


2016 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon One Point Five - California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District
SRP: $95
Deep purple color. The fruit is deep but tart on the nose, with waves of black currants and blueberries, laced with spicy pipe tobacco, violets, earth, mint, clove, vanilla. Full and velvety on the palate, serious structure but it’s smooth, and the acidity is quite fresh, keeping it vibrant. Laced with complex tobacco, dusty earth, with clove, earth, lavender, vanilla, cedar. An underlying graphite and mineral element that is so good. Just gorgeous now, but it will be a real treat with age. All Cabernet that spends 20 months in 100% new French oak. (94 points)


2016 Cliff Lede Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District - California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District
SRP: $78
Really bright purple color. Nose boasts black currants, cassis, plums, rich and loaded but mixed with a host of coffee, cocoa, anise, mint chocolate chip, roasted herbs and graphite. Full-bodied and big on the palate (15.2%) but it’s built well with solid grip, enough acidity to hold it all together. Rich and velvety with waves of plums, black cherries and blueberries. The fruit is mixed with complex earth, graphite, iron, anise, along with coffee, mint chocolate chip and cedar. Accessible and delicious now but plenty of time ahead. Includes 11% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc, aged 21 months in about half-new French oak. (92 points)


2013 Legacy Winery Legacy Red Wine - California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley
SRP: $100
Medium purple color. Deep, gorgeous nose of cassis and black currants, laced with a complex mix of earthy, smoky savory notes (charcoal, mesquite, grilled meat, black olive, pepper) with notes, also some vanilla, cedar. Structured but velvety on the palate, full but fresh, with moderating acidity. Rich blackberry and tart black currant fruit, topped with generous notes of charcoal, graphite, bay leaf, pepper, earth — the savory and spicy elements in here are lovely. I think age has really done wonders for this wine already, but it has many years of evolution ahead. 87% Cabernet Sauvignon with Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot, aged 26 months in 62% new French oak. (93 points)



This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Thursday, February 28, 2019

California New Releases: Chardonnay & Pinot Noir

Chardonnay and Pinot Noir – they grow together, and they go together. And, this week, I’ve got a fresh batch of Chards and Pinots from California.

In this report, I tasted two vintages of Chardonnay from Oceano, which is owned and operated by Rachel Martin of Virginia’s Boxwood Estate. The fruit is sourced from the slops of Price Canyon in San Luis Obispo County, and the vineyard is located less than two miles from the coast. The wines were fermented and aged at Caldwell Vineyards in Napa. These wines really impressed me with their lively, salty, oceanic vibes, and I’m excited to see they have a Pinot Noir coming soon, too.

I also tasted some new Anderson Valley releases from FEL, which is owned by Cliff Lede and used to be branded as Breggo years ago. I’ve followed these wines for a long time, and these new ones keep up a long tradition of rocking yet nuanced Pinot and Chard.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.


2016 Oceano Chardonnay Spanish Springs Vineyard - California, Central Coast, San Luis Obispo County
SRP: $38
Deep yellow color. Popping nose of pineapple, green melon, lemon meringue, with a burst of sea salt and ocean spray, along with spicy floral tea, honey and ginger. Full but not heavy, with vibrant, crisp acidity throughout, which works well with a deep, velvety texture. Flavors of tangerine, green melon, key lime pie, with ginger, honey and bread crumbs. A deep, crusty sea salt element, which I adore, lingers long on the finish. A beautiful balancing act of a Chardonnay. Aged 11 months in French oak, 15% maloactic fermentation. (92 points)

2017 Oceano Chardonnay Spanish Springs Vineyard - California, Central Coast, San Luis Obispo County
SRP: $38
Deep yellow color. Nose bursts with green melon, lemon curd, guava, and a ton of sea salt and ocean breeze, crushed shells, some white tea and honeysuckle. Crisp yet vibrant, lovely texture on a medium/full-bodied frame, but it’s so zesty and the balance is lovely. Lemon, green apple, melon, tangerine, topped in sea salt, crushed shells, hints of toasted bread, vanilla and ginger. Very similar to the 2016 in style, this is kicking now but I’d love to give it a few years. (92 points)

2017 FEL Wines Chardonnay - California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $32
Light gold color. Nose shows yellow pears, yellow apples, along with honey, salted almond, hay, sea spray, crushed shells. On the palate, this is medium-bodied with a rich yet precise texture, refreshing acidity. Yellow pears, apples, apricot, lemon curd, laced with honeysuckle, crushed shells and limestone, ginger, buttercream. There’s also this nice mineral depth, too. Pretty, complex, yet so delicious as well. Aged in neutral French oak for 10 months. (91 points)

2016 Mi Sueño Chardonnay - California, Napa, Carneros
SRP: $42
Light yellow color. Open and bold aromas of yellow pears and apples, lemon curd, with ginger, graham cracker, honey, some ocean spray and chalk. Deliciously full, rich and plump texture, but the acidity moderates it quite nicely. Big, oaky, yes (plenty of honey, almond, buttered biscuits) but there’s also significantly complex notes of sea salt, honeysuckle, chalk, all on top of glazed apples and pears. Deep, delicious, but also intriguing stuff. Aged 18 months in 30% new French oak. (90 points)

2015 Gehricke Pinot Noir Los Carneros - California, Sonoma County, Carneros
SRP: $32
Bright ruby color. Nose shows a mix of roses and violets, clove and rhubarb, on top of jammy raspberries and sweet black cherries. Juicy and ripe on the palate, medium/full-bodied with soft, smooth tannins and moderating acidity. Black cherries, raspberry jam, juicy plums, rich and generous in texture and flavor but it’s quite complex, especially for a wine at this price point, with notes of cola, herbal tea, coffee and toffee. Aged 20 months in French oak, this wine really delivers for the price. (88 points)

2016 FEL Pinot Noir Donnelly Creek Vineyard - California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $65
Dark ruby color. Bright aromas of black cherries, raspberries, with cola, rose petals and a cool, spicy/herbal mix: pepper, dandelion, eucalyptus, mint. Full frame on the palate, structured well but the tannins have some smoothness to them, too, and the acidity is bright. Jammy raspberries, chilled plums, mixed with roasted earth, chestnut, cracked pepper, rose potpourri, with cedar and clove notes. Very pretty, with a lot of depth, this could blossom well over a few years. Aged 16 months in 20% new French oak. (91 points)

2016 FEL Pinot Noir Ferrington Vineyard - California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $65
Deep ruby color. The aromas pop with red currant, raspberries and strawberries, cherry pie (lots of fruit!) but also some interesting notes of rose petal, clove, pine forest, black tea. Medium/full-bodied with a velvety feel and lip-smacking acidity. Juicy cherries, raspberries, candied red apple, the fruit is mixed with a nice mĂ©lange of black tea, roses, anise, bay leaf, dusty earth. Deep yet crisp, there’s a lot to uncover here in the next three-to-six years. Aged 15 months in 37% new French oak. (91 points)

Tuesday, December 11, 2018

Wine Reviews: New Releases from California

We’re headed back to California this week for another batch of new releases.

I’ve reviewed the wines of Jed Steele several times in the past, and they continue to offer tons of value for the money. Although the winery sources grapes from other regions, all of the wines in this report hail from Lake County. With more than 50 vintages under his belt, these are tried and true California wines that deliver gobs of goodness, and most of them cost $20 or less.

I also reviewed two wines from Windvane, the new Ramey Claret, and the new release of Cardinale, the latter of which (while expensive), is something to behold.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2017 Steele Wines Riesling Shooting Star - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $14
Pale straw color. Aromas of lime, peaches and lychee, mixed in with new tennis ball and clover honey. Crisp and punchy, the sugar (about 20 grams/liter) is woven in well. Lemons, peaches, guava and lychee, lot of juicy, tropical goodness mixed with a lot of orange blossoms, honey and dandelion. Fun Riesling at a good price. 12.1% alcohol. (86 points)

2017 Steele Wines Viognier - California, North Coast, Lake County
$20

Light yellow color. Lovely aromas of peaches, kiwi, lemon curd, with whipped honey, orange blossoms, yellow flowers. Full and plump on the palate, nice waxy texture but — crisp acidity in my Viognier? Love it. Peaches, lemon curd, oranges, kiwi, fun and fruity but balanced and quite complex, with stony minerals, honey, white and yellow flowers. Excellent value, this is even better than I remember the 2016. Stainless steel fermented and aged four months in old oak. (90 points)

2016 Steele Wines Merlot Shooting Star - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $15
Light purple. Aromas of plums, black cherries, along with some violets, pepper and leather, which I find really attractive. The balance on the palate is quite nice, a good mix of dusty-light tannins and really fresh acidity. Black cherries, tangy currants, summer plums, the fruit is mixed with elements of cocoa, leather, pepper. Fresh and juicy but nice complexity, too. Aged eight months in French and American oak. (87 points)

2016 Steele Wines Cabernet Franc - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $20
Light purple color. Nose shows pure, deep plums and black cherries on the nose, along with anise, pepper, sage and sweet cocoa. Full but fresh, medium-strength tannins meets moderate acidity, balanced off of black cherries and dark plums, rich but tangy fruit. Notes of loamy earth, black pepper, anise, with coffee and wood notes woven in well. Yummy now, this could actually age for a few years, too. Aged 14 months in 30% new French and American oak. (88 points)

2016 Steele Wines Cabernet Franc Writer's Block - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $17
Deep ruby, light purple. Smells of sweet plums and red and black cherries, with cola, clove and black pepper, some violets and earth. Fleshy and velvety but stays fresh, a nice mix of juicy, tangy, red and black cherries and plums, backed up by notes of cedar, cola, coffee, and some black pepper and earth. Fun, pleasant, shows some complexity at the price point. (87 points)

2016 Steele Wines Syrah Stymie Founder’s Reserve - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $38
Deep purple color. Smells like tart black currants and dark plums, along with smoky, earthy, leathery notes that are quite complex, along with some violets and clove. Full-bodied, surprising acidity on the palate, integrated but structured tannins, and tangy plums and black cherries — the balance is quite nice. Lots of violets, clove, pepper and leather notes, some cocoa and wood as well, with an earthy, tangy finish. Nice now, but you could easily forget about this in the cellar for three or four years. Aged 22 months in 20% new French and American oak. (90 points)

2016 Windvane Chardonnay - California, Napa/Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $40
Light yellow color. Nose boasts yellow apples, lemon curd, apricot, along with toasted almond, whipped butter and sea salt. Full and rich, a bold and classic style but fresh acidity keeps it lively. Lemon curd, bruised apple, mixed with nougat, honey butter, spiced white tea, sea salt and ginger. Bold but lovely depth and balance. About a third of the wine goes through maloactic fermentation, and the wine is aged nine months in ¼ new French oak. (90 points)

2015 Windvane Pinot Noir - California, Napa/Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $45
Dark ruby color. Pretty, warm, inviting nose with raspberries, black cherries, birch beer, rose petals. Full-bodied but crisp and bright with fleshy tannins and flavors of cherries, raspberry jam, dark plums. Notes of cola, rhubarb, mint and cedar, with some nice floral, earthy depth. Lovely vibrancy here, and I’d love to see this in three to four years. Aged nine months in 46% new French oak. (90 points)

2016 Ramey Claret - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $42
Deep ruby color. I love the nose, a mix of juicy, bright fruit (cherries, cranberries, currant) along with anise, tilled soil and pine. Full-bodied but velvety, this wine is smooth and approachable but balanced with vibrant acidity. Nice depth to the red and black cherries, spiced cranberry sauce flavors, along with sweet spice, lots of floral and earthy tones. Deep but lots of brightness and spicy elements. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon with 26% Merlot, 12% Malbec, 8% Syrah and 20% Petit Verdot aged 12 months in 13% new French and American oak. (90 points)

2015 Cardinale - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $275
Bright purple color. Needs time to open up, but has lovely aromas: showing blackberries, dark currants, plums, concentrated but lovely fruit, with complex notes of sweet pipe tobacco, mint, eucalyptus, black tea, vanilla. Full-bodied, structured but so velvety and suave, medium acidity keeping it vibrant. Blackberry, cassis, plum, mixed with a complex host of roasted chestnut, espresso, tobacco, mint, charcoal, earth and mineral. Complex, long-lasting, this could be buried and forgotten for a long time but gorgeous and polished young. A blend of fruit from 12 different vineyards across Napa Valley, with a focus on Mountain fruit, this includes 10% Howell Mountain Merlot. This is aged 20 months in 84% new French oak. (96 points)