Chablis is the perfect spring wine

Chablis has long been one of my favorite wines. As a lover of all things oceanic, I feel for these wines when I discovered them as a young 20-something. The best ones reminded me of oyster shells, lemon slices, and getting rolled around beneath the waves. I was hooked.

All these years later, I still keep up with them, checking in on the vintage, preparing wines for summer seafood and gatherings with other Chablis-loving friends. And after a good day of surfing, in my book there is nothing better than a crisp, nervy Chablis.

So I was happy to receive a few Chablis releases for this report, thee “entry-level” Chablis wines that overdeliver, and a 1er Cru. I’d be stoked to have any of these on my table this spring with some seafood and good company. Spring has sprung -- enjoy!

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted single-blind.

2018 Domaine Corinne et Jean Pierre Grossot Chablis – France, Burgundy, Chablis
SRP: $27
Rich yellow color. Classic aromas of limes, lemon and papaya with a nice dose of salty, briny, shell tones. Zippy on the palate with some nice depth and texture, plenty of fresh citrus fruit. Flinty, salty, chalky vibes add complexity. This is fun and fresh but sports a lot of complexity, too. (90 points)

2019 Camille & Laurent Schaller Chablis – France, Burgundy, Chablis
SRP: $23
Light yellow color. Gorgeous nose of chalk, sea salt, hay, white flowers, over top of lemons and limes. Crisp but nice and creamy with lemons and yellow apples. Pleasant waxy tones balance well off racy chalk, limestone, and there are this pretty floral and honey tones. Clear and classic, a lot going on. (89 points)

2019 Domaine du Colombier Chablis – France, Burgundy, Chablis
SRP: $20
Light yellow color. The nose is a mix of lemons topped in honey and chamomile with some chalky, minty, stony tones. Bright and fun, fresh acidity balances some nice creamy pears and yellow apple fruit. Focused and light with salty, stone tones. A solid intro Chablis with some pleasant creaminess and friendly appeal. (88 points)

2018 Domaine Ventoura Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume – France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
SRP: $36
Light yellow color. Lovely salinity and chalk dust elements on the nose, slate, oyster shells, honey and flowers, a whole lot to accent the lemon and green apple fruit. Crisp and nervy on the palate with deep texture, lovely interplay between the zesty acidity. Lemons, green apple and kiwi fruit play well off of flinty, oyster shell, saline tones. Clear, fresh, mineral-laden finish. I’d love to see this in five years. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

International Grab Bag: New Releases Under $30

This week, I’ve got a round-up of recent samples from all over, all of which cost less than $30.

William Fèvre, known for ethereal Premier and Grand Cru Chablis, has an entry-level new release that offers a bit of everything I look for in a Chablis, and it’s a really solid buy at $25.

M. Chapoutier’s Domaine de Bila-Haut brand, always reliably good for the money, delivers again with their L'Esquerda red blend, a serious wine that brings a lot of complexity and aging potential.

Included in this report are a handful of wines from all over Italy (Veneto, Tuscany, Piedmont), all of which cost $30 or less.

Lastly, I tasted two whites and a pink from the Spanish region of Cariñena, all of which cost less than $15. It’s still summer, and these three wines pack a whole lot of goodness for their price points. Oh, and a “Game of Thrones” branded Pinot Noir, because… well…

All of these wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2017 William Fèvre Chablis Champs Royaux SEA Limited Edition - France, Burgundy, Chablis
SRP: $25
Light yellow color. Aromas of white peaches, lemons, honeysuckle and seashells. Medium-bodied on the palate with a brisk and fresh appeal and plenty of acidity. Lemon curd and orange peel mix nicely with saline, seashells and ocean spray notes, with some dusty minerals that linger onto the finish. A lot of depth for an entry-level Chablis at this price point. (89 points)

2016 M. Chapoutier Côtes du Roussillon Villages Domaine de Bila-Haut L'Esquerda - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon Villages
SRP: $25
Deep purple color. Dark and saucy black currants, juicy black cherries, along with complex elements roasted herbs, cracked black pepper, leather, cocoa. Plump and juicy with medium tannins and medium-low acidity. Black cherries, black currants, roasted fig, the fruit mixes with spicy black pepper, sage, grilled rosemary, with deeper notes of dark chocolate, espresso, vanilla and scorches earth. Put together so well, this should age nicely, too, but ready to go now. Syrah, Grenache and Carignan from a single vineyard, 40- to 60-year-old vines. (90 points)

N.V. La Marca Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore Luminore - Italy, Veneto, Prosecco di Congliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore
SRP: $25
Bursting nose of fresh lemons and limes, dusty chalk, notes of dandelion and baby’s breath. On the palate this is crisp and quite dry, light-bodied but texturally interesting. Lemon-lime, some melon peel, with notes of white flowers, cut flower stems, chalk dusty. Fresh and bright and a lot of fun. A step-up Prosecco that is not to be dismissed. (88 points)

2016 Pieropan Soave Classico - Italy, Veneto, Soave Classico
SRP: $20
Rich yellow color. Aromas of bruised yellow apples, creamy peach, with honeybutter, some nutty-salty notes. Plump texture on the palate with bright acidity on a medium-bodied frame. Apples and peaches play well off of floral perfume, whipped butter, notes of salt and almond. A bit lacking on the finish, but fun and tasty stuff. 85 Garganega and 15% Trebbiao. (86 points)

2016 Jermann Vinnaioli Pinot Grigio - Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Venezia Giulia IGT
SRP: $30
Medium yellow color. Steely and salty aromas with grapefruit, green apples, honeysuckle and dandelion. Brisk and fresh, light and breezy, but some interesting creamy texture and minerality. Yellow and green apples mixed with floral perfume, magnolia flowers and honeysuckle. Fresh and fun, but it has a lot more skill and punching power than many Pinot Grigios from this region. Sourced from two vineyards in Collio. (90 points)

2015 Argiano Non Confunditur Toscana - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
SRP: $23
Bright ruby color. Nose shows tart raspberries, red currant jam, spicy strawberries, with notes of tobacco leaf, rose petal and spicy pepper. On the palate, this is a medium/full-bodied wine with quite smooth tannins and moderate acidity. Flavors of tart red currant and raspberry mix with black pepper, spicy tobacco and scorched earth. Simple, fun, pleasant. Cabernet, Sangiovese, Merlot and Syrah. (87 points)

2017 Rocca di Montemassi Renaissance Rosé - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
SRP: $17
Very pale copper color. Smells of white cherries, watermelon, along with thistle, baby’s breath, a wild green herb and honeysuckle component that I find interesting, too. Medium-bodied, fresh and zippy but a pleasant plumpness on the palate, too. White cherries and wild strawberries mix with bright white flowers, wild green herbs and a spicy herbal tea note. Fresh, inviting, but showing complexity, too. A blend of Sangiovese and Syrah from Maremma. (88 points)

2014 Allegrini Palazzo della Torre Veronese - Italy, Veneto, Veronese IGT
SRP: $23
Rich purple color. I get aromas of roasted figs and plum sauce, with violets, vanilla and coffee grounds. Rich and plush on the palate with velvety tannins and fresh acidity. Flavors of roasted fig, black currant jam, topped in anise, espresso, black pepper and tobacco. Full, warm and rich, but also tangy. A blend of Corvina, Rondinella and Sangiovese, this is a solid value for this style and price. (88 points)  

2016 Renato Ratti Barbera d'Alba Battaglione - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba
SRP: $20
Rich purple color. Smoky aromas of charcoal, anise and graphite on top of generous black cherries and dark plums. Fresh and fleshy on the palate, fun stuff with medium acidity and plush tannins, but this shows a bit of complexity too. Black cherries, tart and crunchy red currants and plums mix with anise, violets, smoky tobacco, cinnamon. Fun and easy-drinking but not simple, this opens up nicely with some air. (88 points)

2016 Seven Kingdoms Wines Pinot Noir Game of Thrones - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
SRP: $20
Pretty, deep ruby color. Aromas of strawberries, bright cherries, cola, some chai tea and cedar. Juicy and full with smooth tannins and medium acidity. Cherries and red currant jam flaors mix with some sweet tobacco and cedar. Big and boastful but shows some balance as well. A fun Pinot for early drinking. (86 points)

2016 Bodegas Virgen del Águila Agoston Viura & Chardonnay - Spain, Aragón, Cariñena
SRP: $9
Very pale color. Steel and bright on the nose with white flowers, lime pit, lemon wedges and sea salt. Zesty and bright on the palate on an easy-drinking frame with flavors of lemon-lime and green apple. Floral perfume, cucumber, white pepper flavors. Simple, fresh, fun summer sipper. (85 points)

2017 Grandes Vinos y Viñedos Corona de Aragón Garnacha Blanca - Spain, Aragón, Cariñena
SRP: $9
Pale straw color. Aromas of peaches, limes, oranges and lychee, topped with sea salt and honeysuckle. Precise and fresh on the palate with fun stony-salty qualities. Lemon, white peach and oranges mixed with floral perfume and a steel, zesty appeal. Lots of fun, showing some good complexity at this price point. (87 points)

2016 Bodegas San Valero Garnacha Rosado Origium - Spain, Aragón, Cariñena
SRP: $15
Almost neon cherry color in the glass. Loving the spicy aromatics of green herbs, white pepper, nettle, on top of watermelon, red cherries and pomegranate. Bright and crisp but super fruit, as the watermelon, raspberry and pomegranate fruit offer a lot to love. Stays fresh, with lots of spicy elements like herbal tea, nettle, rose hips. Delicious, fun, lots going on for the price. (88 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Chablis on the Cheap - Classic Chardonnays From $13-$38

God, I love Chablis. I taste a ton of California Chardonnay, and I am a massive fan of more Cali Chards than I can count. But, when I sit down to taste a bunch of Chablis, my mouth starts to water before I even take a sniff.

Unfortunately, I can’t drink Raveneau on the reg. If I won the lottery, I’d be snatching them up by the case. But, while the top echelon of Chablis producers demand serious money, there are a lot of producers of good, and sometimes thrilling, Chablis for a reasonable amount of money. 

This tasting included wines from all over the quality and classification spectrum of Chablis, from Grand Cru down to Premier Cru, generic Chablis, and Petit Chablis. (However, my favorite was the Premier Cru Fourchaume.) 

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted. 

2015 La Chablisienne Petit Chablis Pas Si Petit - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Petit Chablis
SRP: $13
Light yellow color. Aromas of green apples, peach, hints of sea breeze and chalk dust. Medium/light bodied but a vibrant and creamy texture balanced off of bright acidity. Yellow and green apple, lime zest, the fruit mixes with honey, salted almond and chalk notes. A bit simple, but very pleasant and delicious, a great introduction to the wines of Chablis. For my palate, this destroys a lot of California Chardonnays at the same price-point. (86 points) 

2014 Samuel Billaud Chablis Les Grands Terroirs - France, Burgundy, Chablis
SRP: $25
Pale lemon color. A bit richer aromatics than the Petit Chablis, this shows more yellow apple and pear, some creamy honey and almond as well, with a light dose of chalk and ocean spray. Medium-bodied with crisp acidity, nicely balanced, with yellow apple and pear, a shot of lime peel. Honeysuckle and honeycomb mix nicely with sea salt, preserved lemon and chalk dust notes. Pure and clean on the finish. (87 points) 

2014 Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis 1er Cru Vau de Vey - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
SRP : $27
Medium yellow color. Aromatically, a huge burst of sea spray, chalk dust and salted almond, lemon and lime peel with some dandelion and cut flower stem notes, too. Brisk acidity kicks off the palate and carries this wine all the way through. It’s a tart and refreshing ride but there’s plenty of apple and lime fruit, and more than enough minerals, sea salt, oyster shell. (87 points) 

2014 Isabelle et Denis Pommier Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
SRP: $35
Bright lemon color. Bursting aromatics of dandelion, honeysuckle and lilies, along with mandarin orange, lime peel, and richer notes of honeycomb and nougat as well. Lovely texture on the palate, great balance between incredible acidity and some creaminess. Oranges, limes and lemons topped in oyster brine, sea salt, honeycomb and peanut shell. Such a tangy and lip-smacking wine but enough richness and texture to keep it balanced. Lots going on here. I’d love to hold onto this for four or five years. (91 points)

2013 Jean-Claude Bessin Chablis Grand Cru Valmur - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
SRP: $38
Light gold color. Aromas of oranges, lime, preserved lemon, crushed shells, lamp oil, honeycomb and raw almond. Medium-bodied with laser-like focus and acidity, a pure and zesty wine. Minerals, river rocks and crushed shells on top of lemon, lime, green pears and orange peels, add in some white tea and honeycomb notes. Lacking a bit of density and intensity I look for in a Grand Cru, still very good stuff, though. (89 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Celebrating the End of Summer with Muscadet and Chablis

Well, Labor Day weekend is in the past and autumn is on the way. But it’s still hot here in the mid-Atlantic and, now that the crowds have subsided, it’s still prime time for the beach.

I drink Muscadet and Chablis all year, but they’re my go-to choices for hot weather. I had some friends over this weekend and popped a bunch of bottles, but these two were the best of the bunch.

2010 Domaine Servin Chablis 1er Cru Les Forêts - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Light gold color. Love the salty, briny, oceanic nose on this. Lemon peel, candied ginger and almond notes, too, really lovely to sniff. Medium-bodied, tangy acid, plenty of life and briskness. Orange and lemon peels with richer yellow pear fruit as well, all of it slathered in crusty sea salt and oyster shells. Love the way these honey and nougat notes are woven in so well. Complex, long, mineral-laden, lots to contemplate but so fresh and easy to drink. Glad I opened this now because it’s singing, but I’d be interested to try this again in 2017 or so. (92 points)

2014 Domaine de la Pépière (Marc Ollivier) Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie Vieilles Vignes Clos des Briords - France, Loire Valley, Pays Nantais, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine
I can’t believe it’s taken me until Labor Day weekend to pop the new vintage of Briords, but glad I did. A beautiful wine, per usual, classic nose of seashell, chalk, talc, lemon-limes, oyster, white flowers, hints of white peppery spice underneath. Salty and crunchy with the lime and lemon fruit. Gorgeous acid but balanced by some creaminess. Notes of chalk, clamshells, talc and limestone make this a complex, mineral-laden wine that begs for all sorts of shellfish. Glad I have some more to cellar. Will check back in two or three years because I love how these age. (92 points)

Domaine Servin: a Slice of the Sea in Chablis

I love the mineral intensity of Chablis and the aura of the sea that pervades so many of the wines. But as far as I’ve been able to tell, Domaine Servin puts out some of the most intensely oceanic wines from this storied region. The aromatics and palate are soaked in ocean surf, sea salt, seaweed, crushed shells, jetty rocks. As an obsessive surfer, these elements are so deeply ingrained into my senses that I get stoked as soon as I sniff a Servin. When tasting through the whole lineup, the complexity of ocean-related scents is mind-boggling.

Winemaker Francois Servin has deep Chablis roots. He comes from a long history of Servin winemakers (the last five generations were all named Marcel), and the Servin family’s history in Chablis stretches all the way back to the 1600s. The Domaine holds 35 hectares (about 85 acres) of Chardonnay vines in four Grand Cru vineyards and six Premier Cru vineyards. All the vines, averaging 40-years-old, are planted in the famous Kimmeridgian soil, ancient limestone-rich earth which blesses wines with glorious minerality and brisk oceanic elements. 

When reading about or discussing the best Chablis producers, I don’t hear Domaine Servin thrown around with the likes of Raveneau or Dauvissat, and I think that makes sense. But Servin’s wines are stunning in their purity, length and seem capable of lots of time in the cellar. And when factoring price into the equation, Servin deserves serious attention. 

In the $30-$40 range, Servin Premier Crus are dollar-for-dollar some of my favorite Chardonnays

I tasted through all these wines at my favorite DC shop, Weygandt Wines, during one of their stellar Saturday afternoon grand tastings. If you’re based in the DC Metro area, you should definitely sign up for their email newsletter so you can keep up with delicious and highly educational tastings like this.

My notes...

2013 Domaine Servin Chablis Les Pargues - France, Burgundy, Chablis
$22
Vibrant and bright, green pear and lime along with a salty-floral combo. Crisp and clean and a great intro to Servin’s approach. Solid value. This vineyard is no longer a 1er Cru, but this wine begs to differ. (87 points)

2012 Domaine Servin Chablis Cuvée Massale Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Chablis
$25
Some honey and white peach along with the salty-floral signature. Powerful spine of acid, the green apple and pear fruit is backed up by salty minerals and hints of nuts and oil. For the price, what a beauty. (88 points)

2013 Domaine Servin Chablis 1er Cru Les Forêts - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
$33
So oceanic on the nose, floral, lime, iodine. Salty and oceanic on the palate, just a lovely verve to the wine, tons of minerals. Not at all a rich wine, but it’s more than just a lean and bracing wine, the weight is wonderfully balanced. A beauty, but so intense and young. (91 points)

Soil full of limesoney goodness is key in the best
Chablis, imparting loads of minerality and oceanic flavors.
Image from Domaine Servin.

2013 Domaine Servin Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
$33
Intense seashell aromas, yellow flowers, some more orange notes mixed in with the limes. Crisp and bright, racing with minerals. A bit more weight than the Forets, but still gorgeously crisp. A gorgeous young Chablis. (92 points)

2013 Domaine Servin Chablis 1er Cru Les Vaucoupins - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
$35
In addition to the lime and sea brine, I get some interesting orange blossom, lively minerals and chalk. Crisp and bright, so mineral-driven, but full of honeysuckle and chalk. I’m really digging the oceanic vibe and intensity of this wine. (92 points)

2013 Domaine Servin Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
$36
Greener fruit on the nose, lots of sea salt, even some seaweed and salt-crusted surfboard aromas. Tangy and briny on the palate, the chalk and minerals are gorgeous and complex, needing a few years to unwind. Lime, green pears, finishes long with oyster shell and wetsuit notes. (91 points)

2013 Domaine Servin Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
$37
Peachy goodness on the nose, airy and salty of course, more flint and chalk. Richer than the others, relatively speaking, still intensely oceanic and salty. Green pears, limes mix with hints of white peach and honeysuckle. Beautiful stuff, so long, delicious and thought-provoking. (93 points)

2011 Domaine Servin Chablis Grand Cru Blanchot - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
$65
Even brinier than the others, this is also super floral and full of stones, hints of herbs. Clean, zesty, deeply mineral-driven, so nervy and tart. Pears and green apples, laced through with chalk and minerals. Wow, I’d love to taste this again in four or five years. (93 points)

2012 Domaine Servin Chablis Grand Cru Blanchot - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
$70
Bright and floral, elements of candied orange accent the stones, minerals and oceanic aromas. Ripe and showing some honey on the palate, but also tremendously dry, bright, clean and refreshing. Hints of white pepper and chalk linger. Lacking a bit of roundness and depth of the 2013, but the cellar will have a few things to say about this wine. (91 points)

2011 Domaine Servin Chablis Grand Cru Bougros - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
$65
Lots of elegance and finesse in this wine. Chalky, oceanic, floral, seaweed aromas. Creamy, hints of toast, but lively acid, stones, minerals, sea salt, mixed nuts. So complex. (93 points)

2012 Domaine Servin Chablis Grand Cru Bougros - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
$70
More floral in approach, oranges, chalk, sea salt aromas. Ripe and open but lively acid and lots of ocean spray and minerals. Interesting candied orange, white tea, hints of honey. Long life ahead. (92 points)

2012 Domaine Servin Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
$65
So elegant yet intense at the same time, a bit tightly-wound though. Slate, chalk, lime, orange peel aromas. Nervy, bright, clean, salty, with crushed rocks, copious minerals. Striking freshness and youth, but full of cellar potential. (92 points)

2012 Domaine Servin Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
$75
Aromatic bliss: seashells, seaweed and jetty rocks mixed with lime and lemon curd. Great concentration on the palate but the acid is pure and intense. I love the weight and mouthfeel and the excellent balance with the acid. And the flavors: lemons, limes, crushed rocks, yellow flowers, hints of honey. A beautiful wine with a long future. (93+ points)

Chablis From Domaine Charly Nicolle

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Proprietor Charly Nicolle kicked off his domaine in 2004. He’s been expanding his vineyard holdings piece by piece since 1997, when he acquired one tenth of a hectare from his great-grandfather. Today Domaine Charly Nicolle tends 15 hectares of vines spread across several appellations, including Premier Crus and the Grand Cru Bougros.

Like many Chablis winemakers, Charly learned the ropes from his father, Robert, who runs Domaine de la Mandeliere. Charly still works with his father and the two domaines share a team of vineyard workers, but they each control different vines and make different wines.

Charly Nicolle’s wines are all fermented in stainless steel with natural yeasts. They have a clean feel with lots of verve, minerality and oceanic elements. The wines I tasted hailed from the 2012 vintage, except the 2011 Bougros. “The 2012 vintage is a very good one, rather round and aromatic,” Lucie Thieblemont, the domaine’s commercial director, explained in an email. “It has less acidity than the 2011, which makes it very pleasant to drink now, but might be not so good to keep long.”

The wines are indeed round and aromatic right now, but I’m thinking some of them could age well. All of the wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2012 Charly Nicolle Chablis Ancestrum - France, Burgundy, Chablis

Nose: salted lime, green apple some white floral tones and crushed sea shells. Medium bodied with medium+ acid. I get shaved lime and green apple, mixing with pure minerality, some saline and sweet white flowers. Bright and crisp and edgy but downright fun and pleasant as well. This wine is made from a blend of vineyards in four different villages with an average age of 35 years. (87 points)

2012 Charly Nicolle Petit Chablis - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Petit Chablis

A richer, more apple and apricot-driven nose than the Chablis Ancestrum, but there’s still some nice saline and mineral notes on the nose. Fleshy on the palate, but crisp acid, a nice mix of citrus and apple fruit, some honey and hazelnut accents, some sea shells. Still, this is a lot of fun, despite its more humble appellation, this is a solid Chablis with a lot of elements firing at once. From 15-20-year-old vines in a clay and limestone vineyard in Fleys. (87 points)

2012 Charly Nicolle Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

Salted margarita on the nose with more yellow apple than the Ancestrum, this also has a rich honeyed note that mixes with the sea breeze and sea shell note. Medium+ body with medium+ acid, the lime and apricot fruit is tangy but backed up by some whipped honey notes. The minerals streak across the palate, like limestone and quinine and mountain stream all thrown together, the subtle honeyed white tea and floral notes add complexity. Clean, vibrant, with a long finish. From vines averaging 50-60 years. (90 points)

2012 Charly Nicolle Chablis 1er Cru Les Fourneaux - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

Love the lime zest, sea salt and white flowers, but there’s a lot of creamy fruit as well (apricot, white peach, some honeyed notes). Long and deep on the nose.  Nervy acid but generous with the creamy aspects. The lime, green and yellow apple and apricot fruits are dusted with sea salt, crushed oyster shells and limestone. Love the intensity and verve, but I also enjoy the creamy, slightly honeyed aspects. Long and age-worthy, just a bit more depth and minerality than the Mont de Milieu. From vines averaging 50-60 years. (91 points)

2011 Charly Nicolle Chablis Grand Cru Bougros - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

Aromas of sea salt, white flowers, some moderate mineral and rocky elements, a bit of honeyed tea. On the palate this is a racy wine with crisp acid and a medium body. Creamy with some nice apricot, mixed apples, white peach and white tea flavors. A sense of lime peel and slate pervades the wine, complementing the honeyed tones. Very good stuff, but I wonder about cellaring this for more than a few years. From vines averaging 50-60 years. (89 points)

Grab Bag Whites with Good Friends

When drinking wine with good friends, German riesling is always a wise choice.

My friend Tooch and I have been drinking wine together for five years. We’ve shared hundreds of bottles from practically every premium wine region in the world. Last year he moved from DC to Chicago, and Friday was his first day back in town for 11 months. Naturally, our tight-knit wine crew threw a tasting at our favorite wine shop, Weygandt Wines in Cleveland Park. We didn't plan ahead for a theme, and  everyone just bought a bottle they wanted to share with good friends. Based on the wines people brought, the tasting took on several themes of its own: Burgudy, the Jura, the Loire Valley, German riesling. There were a lot of people and even more bottles. (I believe the final body count was 30-something.) There was no way I could make it through all the wines on the table, so I had to prioritize.

Here are some notes on some of the white wines in the tasting. You know, when I'm drinking such good wine and hanging out with good friends, I can’t help but think: I'm a blessed guy.

2009 Rudi Pichler Grüner Veltliner Federspiel - Austria, Wachau
Not a bad way to start off the tasting. Initially a bit closed, but with some air and time the wine opened up to show slate, lemon and white pepper. Very bold palate, with delicious acid, and gummy white peach fruit. Finish is laced with minerals. Classic Rudi Pichler. 88 points

2008 Domaine de Montbourgeau L'Etoile - France, Jura, L'Etoile
This is an extreme wine, even for Jura chardonnay. Seriously, it smells like my wetsuit after surfing for hours on end, complete with hints of seaweed, brine and sea salt. Hints of lemon and sherry round out the nose. Massive acid on the palate, along with clean flavors of lemon, quince, almonds and sea salt. This wine is quite young, and I imagine it would show better in a few years. This chardonnay is powerful enough to stand up to pretty much any sharp cheese. 88 points

2010 Domaine Servin Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre - France, Burgundy, Chablis
I pretty much knew this wine was going to be awesome, but it still surprised me. Very young, but stunning. Aromas of lemons, limes, limestone, salt and crushed rocks. High acid from start to finish, buttressed by green pears and apples, bright minerals, seaweed and salty air. Long, crisp finish. Bring on the oysters because this stuff is simply beautiful. The Montée de Tonnerre vineyard is one of my favorite places for chardonnay, and in 2010 Domaine Servin really nails it. 93 points

2002 Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Mosel
I always welcome a Christoffel Erben riesling to a tasting, and this 2002 showed quite well. Vibrant peach on the nose, hints of petrol and honey as well. Still smells youthful. The palate shows nice balance between fruit and acid. Lovely white peach and lychee flavors, along with minerals the first signs of petrol. More of a boisterous wine than an elegant one, but it's delicious. 90 points

1990 Von Schubert Maximin Grünhauser Abtsberg Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel
An absolutely beautiful aged riesling. Gorgeous aromas of petrol, orange peel, marmalade and a hint of white flower. Huge acid on the palate provides freshness and elegance, supporting the rich flavors of dried pineapple, mango and apricot. Fleshed out with nougat and bracing minerals. This is everything I love about Mosel riesling, and Maximin Grünhauser in particular. I'd love to taste this again in five years. There was a lot of discussion amongst the older folks at the tasting that 1990 was their favorite vintage. With a wine like this, it's understandable. 93 points

2005 Koehler-Ruprecht Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Pfalz
Hmmm... strange wine. First of all, it's only seven years old but it's got the orange color of a 20-year-old riesling. Aged aromas of peach juice, honeycomb and dried mango. The palate has a lot of honey, dried apricot and even caramel flavors. I can't believe this is only a spätlese, as the sweetness is reminiscent of an auslese. Lower acid than the other rieslings in the tasting, but low acid for 2005 in general. I don't know how this wine got so old so quickly, but it's a riesling to drink in the near term. 84 points

2010 Patz & Hall Chardonnay Sonoma Coast - California, Sonoma Coast
Aromas of peanut shell, buttered popcorn and green apple. Actually some solid acid on the palate, nice bit of kick. Flavors of lemonhead candy, buttered cookies and green apple. I like the cut to this wine. I’m a fan of this producer’s pinots, and I was expecting a bit more from their chardonnay. 86 points

A Tale of Two Chardonnays

I love chardonnay. While my palate tends to favor the leaner, more acidic and mineral-driven chards of Burgundy, I can't really afford to sip Chassagne-Montrachets all the time. So I'm constantly on the lookout for chardonnays that offer complexity and balance for a reasonable price. I also try not to limit my chardonnay drinking to one or two specific regions, because the grape can be grown in so many different places and made into so many different styles of wine. Here are two recent examples of solid chardonnays that reflect their time and place. And, hey, not too bad on the wallet either.

2010 Domaine Bernard Defaix Chablis 1er Cru Côte de Léchet (France, Burgundy, Chablis 1er Cru)
I’ve enjoyed this wine over the course of several vintages, dating back to the 2005, which was some of the first white Burgundy I started buying. Clear straw color. Aromas of freshly-cut grapefruit, limestone, quinine and a just a hint of hazelnut. Just like a 2010 Chablis should, this wine shows snappy acid and fresh fruit. The flavors of green apple, pear and a hint of honeydew are bright and youthful. There’s a lovely creaminess to this wine, but it’s so balanced. Very elegant and fresh, with opulent honeysuckle and peach blossom, and the tangy citrus aspect, along with a sugarcane flavor, reminds me of Smarties candy. Acid and limestone crackle on the finish. I’d love to taste this again in five years, as it’s clearly a young wine. What a steal for $12 per half bottle! 89+ points.

2009 Melville Chardonnay Estate (California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills)
Melville was one of the first California wineries I visited back in 2008. I was impressed by their chardonnays and pinots, which I find rich but also elegant. I picked up this chardonnay for $22, and it delivers for the price. It’s the neon yellow color of Tweety Bird in the glass. On the nose, explosive aromas of toasted nuts, lemon zest, baked apple and something that reminds me of orange Pez candy. The palate is expectedly rich, with creamy apple, pear and lemon fruit. What’s surprising is the acid, which is of medium intensity and provides solid structure. It tastes juicy, not goopy. Be warned: there’s some significant oak here, dosing the fruit with flavors of toasted marshmallow and buttered biscuits. The tanginess and sweet tart flavor make this wine unique in a sea of vapid chardonnays. If you criticize California chardonnay for being too buttery and oaky, this might be one to try, because it is far more restrained than most Cali chards. 87 points.

Six Summer Whites

I drink white wines all year round, but this summer I've been drinking, almost exclusively, whites and roses. It's just too damn hot for tannins.Over the past week I've tasted a few chardonnays and white Rhône wines that showed well. When it's hot, I don't necessarily bust out the most exciting and stellar whites. Instead, I look for wines that offer freshness, pleasure and value. Here are a few such whites...

2011 Saint-Cosme Côtes du Rhône Blanc (France, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône)

Pineapple and mango jump out of the glass as soon as you smell it. With time, hints of clover honey and meringue came out. The pineapple and pear fruit on the palate is very fresh. There’s a creamy feel to the wine that I like, a bit of boldness, but the acid is present from start to finish to keep it all going. A hint of hazelnut wraps up the finish. Great balance and freshness. I’m really enjoying this combination of flavors. A blend of 30% roussanne, 20% viognier, 20% marsanne and 30% picpoul. Solid stuff, and a good value at $17. 86 points

2010 Domaine La Bastide Roussanne Vin de Pays d'Hauterive (France, Languedoc, Vin de Pays d'Hauterive)

Aromas of white peach, rich papaya, also some fresh flowers. Palate: some rich cantaloupe, honey, pineapple rind. This wine is full of chunky tropical fruit, but solid acid keeps it fresh. For $11, it's quite a bargain. 85 points

2011 Vasse Felix Chardonnay Margaret River (Australia, Western Australia, Margaret River)

I'm always interested in a chardonnay from Australia's Margaret River appellation. I usually like their combination of pure fruit, acid and mineral flavors. This chardonnay from Vasse Felix is no exception. Some really ripe aromas of pineapple, pear and roasted nuts. On the palate, this starts of with lots of white peach fruit, with hints of honey and toast. The acid is surprisingly high and there's a great lime and mineral aspect to this wine. Rich, but very focused. 88 points

2010 Frank Family Vineyards Chardonnay Napa Valley (California, Napa Valley)

Rich and bright yellow color in the glass. Aromas of butter, caramel and toast, warm and seductive. The palate shows rich pineapple and mango fruit, accented by a bit of buttered toast. Thing is, this wine is quite balanced. The acid on the finish makes this really refreshing, which is something I can't say for many Napa Valley chardonnays. Quite nice. 87 points

2009 Domaine Bernard Defaix Chablis "Les Hauts de Milly" (France, Burgundy, Chablis)

Floral nose, also some lemonhead candy aromas. The palate is really tangy, with huge acid that makes me think more of the 2008 vintage. The mineral intensity is great. White peach fruit and seashell flavors linger on the finish. A leaner style of Chablis from a very reliable producer. 88 points

2010 Domaine Michel Juillot Rully "Les Thivaux" (France, Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise, Rully) 

This chardonnay shows a lot of finesse for $30. Explosively aromatic, showing ripe yellow apple, lemon zest and minerals. The palate is medium-bodied with laser-like acid. Lots of lemon zest in this wine and a load of sea shells and minerals. It really reminds me of the freshest oysters and lemons. You could've fooled me that this was Chablis because it has great focus and a lot of limestone and citrus elements. Delicious stuff. I bet it could age and improve for a few years as well. 89+ points

Tasting Virginia's "Best" Wines

Let me get one thing straight: I’m not here to slam Virginia wines. There are many solid viogniers and chardonnays, and some decent red blends coming from all across the state. I am ocassionally surprised by the state's adopted red, cabernet franc, and I've been impressed by lesser-known red varieties like norton, tannat and nebbiolo. I love Virginia so much I’m even planting my own vineyard on my parents’ property in Appomattox County. There's a lot for a wino to like in Virginia, but the quality is so variable, and so many of the wines are downright terrible, that drinking Virginia wines is like playing Russian roulette with your palate.

The Governor’s Cup is an annual wine tasting competition that is supposed to highlight the best Virginia wines. Hundreds of wines are submitted and tasted by a panel of judges, who rate each wine according to the 100-point scale: 95-100 is classic (among the best in the world); 90-94 is outstanding (of superior character and style); 85-89 is very good (a wine with special qualities); 80-84 is good (a well-made wine of good quality); 75-79 is average (a drinkable wine that may have minor flaws); and 50-74 is not recommended. Below 50, I guess it’s not really a wine. Whatever flaws and contradictions are inherent in this scoring system (and there are many), it does offer a framework through which we can analyze different wines, taking into account all their different attributes, and place them along a continuum of quality. It’s not perfect, but it can be useful.  

Apparently, any wine that got a gold medal this year received an average score of at least 90 points. I was curious to see whether these wines were as good as they were alleged to be. Well, thanks to my friends at Terroirist, a daily wine blog, I got to taste through all of the Virginia wines that got gold medal awards at the 2012 Governor’s Cup. (Here’s the full list of medal-winning wines from Virginia.) I took some notes and scored each wine according to the same 100-point scale that the judges used. To say I disagree with the Governor's Cup judges on these wines is a bit of an understatement.

Here’s my take on these gold medal wines…
(Note: there are several European wines that we snuck in because... well... we needed some diversity.)

2008 Trump Winery Blanc de Blancs Kluge SP - Virginia, Albemarle County

The new Trump Winery in Virginia, like everything Trump touches, has received a lot of fan-fare. I'm sure the winery is as classy as Donald's hair, but forgive me if I was a bit skeptical about the juice in the bottle. This 100 percent chardonnay sparkler was my first taste from Trump, and I'll admit... I was impressed. It did have quite a reticent nose of lemon-lime, some chalk. The palate shows tangy acid and green apple fruit. The bubbles seem a bit weak, and I wanted more power, but overall this is a nice sparkling wine. It's by no means a steal at $28, but that's Trump for ya. (86 pts.)

2010 White Hall Vineyards Gewürztraminer - Virginia, Monticello
Aromas: sweet lychee fruit, mixed nuts, white grapes. Rich and oily on the palate, almost like green grape jelly. There's some sweetness here, and lots of chunky tropical fruit, but also some white pepper and spice to keep it interesting. It's hard to get too excited about a gewurz that doesn't have any of the mineral flavors I love in wines from Alsace, for example. This needs more acid or some minerals to balance the sweetness and thickness of the fruit. Still, this is an impressive effort. (83 pts.)

2010 Tarara Winery Viognier Honah Lee - Virginia, Loudoun County
Wow, I can't believe this wine got a "gold medal." It's unbearable. Aromas of white grapes, oil and marmalade. The palate tastes bitter, like someone crushed grape seeds in with the fruit. And the alcohol clocks in at 15.5%, which gives this wine the feel of a bizarre cocktail gone wrong. The fruit is bitter and the alcohol overbearing. How someone could vote to give this wine a gold medal is beyond me. It's quite miraculous to taste a wine this bad that doesn't have a specific chemical flaw. It's like they set out to create the worst wine possible. A good half-dozen people tasted this wine with me and not one of them wanted to finish a glass. (60 pts.)

2009 Linden Chardonnay Hardscrabble - Virginia, Northern Region
My long-time wine buddy Brett snuck this "silver medal" winner into the tasting, as he's a big fan of Linden. Drinking this wine, I couldn't help but think: who the hell are these judges and why didn't they give this wine a gold? This chardonnay is well-made, delicious, and truly deserving of a 90-point rating. Aromas of green apple, white flowers and fresh pear. Lots of gummi fruit flavors, white peach and green apple on the palate, balanced by solid acid. It got better with two hours being open, and could age for several years at least. It's Virginia chardonnays like this make me wonder why so many winemakers choose red over whites in the state. Still, it gives me hope for the state's white wines. (90 pts.)

2010 Keswick Vineyards Merlot - Virginia, Monticello
The first red of the tasting didn't set a good precedent. It smells like sweet cassis, oak and cherry jam. The palate is full of sweet fruit, lots of grippy oak, giving it the overall feel of spiked grape jam. Cough syrup lingers on the finish. Ugg. (71 pts.)

2008 King Family Vineyards Meritage - Virginia, Monticello
Okay, now we're dealing with a legit Virginia red wine. It smells like dessert: cherry pie, cheesecake topping and black cherries. It's quite lovely on the nose. The palate shows grippy tannins, sweet cassis, and a distinct note of iron. It's very Napa-esque, but even a bit sweeter. This wine had the most petit verdot in it, which could contribute to that extra weight and grip that a lot of the other reds were lacking. It's a good wine, but when I heard it was $70+, I thought... no friggin' way. (87 pts.)

2010 Jefferson Vineyards Cabernet Franc - Virginia, Monticello
Aromas of sweet cherries, musk, tobacco and some old barn. The palate is sweet with cherry fruit and oak. This wine is mouth-coating, and it tastes sweaty. Not sweet, sweaty. There is absolutely no acid. To be honest, this wine is a total mess, and it's nowhere near Virgnia's best example of cabernet franc. (70 pts.)


Palate Cleanser
At this point in the tasting I needed a muscadet to cleanse my palate of some of that lingering sweet, oaky taste.

1999 Domaine Pierre de la Grange (Luneau-Papin) Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie Le "L" d'Or - France, Loire Valley, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine
Nothing cleanses the palate like a muscadet from Luneau-Papin. Aromas of lemon zest, with aged aromas of peanut brittle and hints of sherry. The palate is plump with apricot and lemon fruit, but the minerals and acid are still there for balance. Sweet apricot and butter linger on the finish. (88 pts.)

Virginia's Big Reds
A lot of these reds weren't just disappointing, they were flat-out terrible. Overall, most of them tasted startlingly similar, showing sweet red fruit, bizarre flavors, too much oak and bitter tannins.

2009 Keswick Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Reserve - Virginia, Albemarle County
Thick aromas of black cherries and figs. The palate is too rich, with sweet figs and cherries, overwhelmed by lots of oak. Again, no acid whatsoever. Too goopy to enjoy. (69 pts.)

2010 Veritas Vineyard Vintner's Reserve - Virginia, Monticello
After a lot of crummy Virginia reds, this one was actually good. Sweet cherries and leather on the nose. Plummy on the palate with smooth tannins, some sweet and savory aspects. Almost Napa-cab like. Not thrilling, but much better than a lot of the other red blends. (85 pts.)

2009 Potomac Point Vineyard & Winery Richland Reserve Heritage - Virginia, Albemarle County
Aromas of sweet rhubarb pie and toasted oak. Sweet and baked on the palate, with fig and gritty coffee. The theme here is sweetness. At this point, I really wanted a Virginia red that wasn't laced with unfermented sugar. (76 pts.)

2009 Glen Manor Vineyards Hodder Hill - Virginia, Shenandoah Valley
Sweet black cherries on the nose, figs as well. Sweet, again, on the palate with lots of fig and chocolate. Very baked-tasting, almost like cough syrup and chocolate. Overdone. Some at the tasting liked this wine, but I found it out of balance. (75 pts.)

2010 Bluestone Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon - Virginia, Shenandoah Valley
Cassis jam and caramel on the nose. Not as thick as some of the other reds in the tasting, which was nice. Flavors of grilled plums are a bit awkward. Not good, but not terrible either. (74 pts.)

2007 Delfosse Vineyards and Winery Meritage - USA, Virginia, Central Region, Monticello
The last Virginia wine in the tasting was actually good. Ripe gushers candy on the nose, along with raspberry jam. The palate is like strawberries, sugar cane and pancake syrup. It's sweet, but somehow still fresh and quite pleasant. This wine showed more acid than most of the others. (81 pts.)


Non-Virginia Wines
After all that sweet, hot mess of wines, it was time for something more Old World...

2011 Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé - France, Provence
Pale copper color. Aromas of gooseberry, honeydew melon, and a sauvignon-blanc-like grassy, peppery aroma. Lots of cut on the palate, but also nice creaminess. Watermelon, strawberry mix with chives and pepper. Lovely stuff with a great crisp finish. This wine was perfect after a bunch of those overdone Virginia reds. (90 pts.)

2010 Domaine Servin Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux - France, Burgundy, Chablis 1er Cru
Bright yellow color. Aromas of white grapefruit, seaweed, and minerals. With some time, I picked up some sage and herbs, which was really nice. Tons of acid on the palate, which I love. Creamy yellow apple fruit, grapefruit, green apple, accented with sea salt and a bit of brine. Delicious stuff that will continue to improve for a long time. I love the ocean-like qualities of chardonnay from the Butteaux vineyard, and this is a great example. (91 pts.)

2008 Domaine Pascal Cotat (Pascal & Francis) Sancerre Chavignol - France, Loire Valley, Sancerre
Jeremy brought this wine and poured it blind. He had us all guessing, because this is such a strange wine. Light copper colored. A bit of oxidized aromas, but not too much. Some white peach and stone aroams. The palate shows tangy acid and an interesting combination of flavors: honeycomb, strawberry, yellow apple and pumpkin seeds. There's a lot of limestone and quinine in this wine as well. Acid carries the finish. I like this wine, but it's also quite strange. Maybe a good salad wine? (86 pts.)

2008 Alain Hudelot-Noellat Bourgogne - France, Burgundy
Soft burgundy colored. Aromas of sour cherries, beef broth and celery seed. The palate shows searing acid, tart fruit and brisk minerals. Also, flavors of green olive, tomatoe paste and beef broth. Interesting wine, definitely on the austere end of the spectrum. This wine shows those earthy flavors and ripping acid of the 2008 vintage, but in a light and fresh package. (88 pts.)

2009 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon - France, Loire Valley, Chinon
Smoky aromas, also some green olive and soy sauce. Very young, right out of the bottle, it really needs time to breathe. The palate shows gritty tannins, dark cherry fruit, as well as beef broth and some bay leaf. Very complex and delicious, but it really needs some time. (88 pts.)

Friday Night Grab Bag

Last minute, I emailed some friends to see about a possible wine tasting on a Friday night. What I expected to be a small event quickly turned into a really solid tasting, with several people coming and bringing some special bottles. This is a unique bunch of wines and styles, but overall they were great. Notes...

2009 Domaine de la Pépière (Marc Ollivier) Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Chateau Thébaud Clos des Morines - France, Loire Valley, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine
This is a big, bold Muscadet that shows a lot of heft, but still pays homage to the classic sea spray and mineral intensity of Muscadet. Initially, it smelled like white flowers, rich melon fruit, ocean spray and sea salt. The palate shows plump white peach fruit, tangy acid, and hints of lime and salt. There's a lovely creaminess to this wine, but also a lot of acid. Can a wine be hedonistic and racy at the same time? If so, this is the wine. Over time a lot of soap and perfume aromas came out. This could be aged for ten years easily, and I'm sure it would gain a lot of complexity. This is one hell of a Muscadet. (90 pts.)

2008 Gilbert Picq Chablis Dessus La Carriere - France, Burgundy, Chablis
Tim popped this Chabls. It's definitely a unique wine, at a unique place in its evolution. Right out of the bottle, the wine really smells like tuna can and lemon. No kidding, my cat Sonoma would probably love this. With time some nutshell, lemon-lime and nougat came out. If I smelled this blind, I would think it had at least eight years of age on it. The palate is surprisingly fresh and lively, with lots of sweet melon and grapefruit. There's some limestone and sea salt in there too, reminding me that we're in Chablis. It opened up with time, but it's definitely a mysterious Chablis. Maybe this wine would be a bit better with another two or three years? (88 pts.)

2011 Château de la Bonneliere Chinon Rive Gauche Rose - France, Loire Valley, Chinon
Lovely salmon color in the glass. Nose of seashells, grapefruit and nectarine. The palate is tangy and crisp with lean minerals. Flavors of wild strawberry, raspberry and a very distinct brambly note. I also get a tangy cranberry flavor that reminds me of Thanksgiving. Good structure and tannins for a Chinon rose. Delicious. (87 pts.)

2011 Clos Roche Blanche Touraine Cuvée Gamay - France, Loire Valley, Touraine
Leave it to Clos Roche Blanche to come out with one of the craziest gamays I've ever tasted. Pungent aromas of grapefruit, tilled soil and green onion. The palate is tart and tangy with lots of green pepper, white cherry and grapefruit. There's a lot of minerality and incense in this wine, along with a whole garden of herbs. This ain't no Beaujolais. Bizarre, and not for everyone, but really fun and nerdy. (89 pts.)

2009 Tramontane Collioure - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Collioure
Despite the weird label reminiscent of the early 1990s video game series Kirby, this is a serious wine. 100 percent grenache from the southern-most appellation in France. I tasted two bottles of this wine, one was opened that night, the other 24 hours before. The two tastings made clear to me that this wine can age, and should age. Day 2: Great raspberry aromas, savory spices, nutmeg, allspice. The palate shows tangy acid, lovely sweet cherries, along with spices of nutmeg and clove. This wine gave me a craving for lamb or bison burgers. The Day 1 bottle was a lot darker and showed richer fruit and spices. I'd love to taste this wine again in two years, as it clearly has a lot of complexity packed in here. (90 pts.)

2009 Schiefer Blaufränkisch Königsberg - Austria, Südburgenland
This was tasted blind, and my buddy J later told me it had been opened for several days. I usually like Schiefer's Blaufrankisch, and I did like this, it was just strange. Aromas of cranberries, lemon verbina, tobacco and toast. There are some bitter tannins, and tangy acid, but there's a lot of great flavors: orange rind, moroccan spices and cranberries. I'd score it 86, but again this was opened three days prior.

2008 Alain Hudelot-Noellat Chambolle-Musigny - France, Burgundy, Chambolle-Musigny
A beautiful young Burgundy. Elegant aromas of rose petals, sour cherry, as well as some savory spices and herbs. The palate shows tangy acid, firm tannins and a very elegant mouthfeel. Raspberry and rhubarb flavors abound. There's some stemminess, but not too much. This wine definitely needs some time to come together, but it's really pretty, and with time it became more floral and expressive. Lovely Chambolle. (90 pts.)

2007 Markus Molitor Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Pretty gold color in the glass. Aromas of peach ring candy, whipped honey, peanut brittle and orange rind. Very rich aromatically. The palate shows sweet peaches, honeycomb, and rich canteloupe fruit. The acid came out with an hour or two, but I wanted a bit more. It's rich, but a little flabby, and doesn't have that mineral and acid streak I look for in Wehlener Sonnenuhrs. Tasty, but not very elegant. (86 pts.)

2005 Müller-Catoir Mußbacher Eselshaut Rieslaner Spätlese - Germany, Pfalz
I cannot believe I only bought one bottle of this wine. Neon yellow color in the glass with thick legs. The aromas are unbelievable in their complexity and purity: petrol, lemon oil, wax, apricot sauce, candied ginger. The aromas change and shift with three hours open, showing all sorts of gorgeousness. The palate is rich with lemon custard, yellow apple and ginger snap flavors. The acid keeps it fresh and lively. There's so much apricot, honeycomb, key lime pie and herbal flavors. The whole time, the acid and minerals slip through, providing sleekness and balance. Lovely tangerine rind on the finish. This could age for 10, 20+ years easily. It's almost a crime to drink it this young, but it's so good that I don't feel bad. Bob: "This is a very special wine." In ten years, I could see rating this wine even higher. This is no joke. Perfect Friday night wine. (94 pts.)