2013 Bordeaux - Rough Year, But Some Good Wines Survive

Heard about the 2013 vintage in Bordeaux? Heard anything good about the 2013 vintage in Bordeaux?

The region struggled with a cool start, and rain and cool weather was a theme throughout the growing season. But the season ended with rain and warm weather, which meant rot was a problem. Yields were way down, hail smashed grapes in the summer, Merlot got its ass kicked (especially on the Left Bank) and winemakers struggled to sort out the good grapes.

Some producers didn't even release a 2013 wine, and some Left Bank chateaux sold off wine to be bottled by others under different brands. Twenty or 30 years ago, this vintage may have been a disaster.  But with modern technology, many winemakers were able to pull a rabbit out of a very wet hat. Diligent vineyard work early on, intense grape sorting after harvest, and flexibility in the vinification process led to some fun and impressive results.

My favorite wine hailed from Chateau Montrose. Credit: Chateau Montrose.

I recently tasted through a bunch of 2013 Bordeaux wines at the Heart's DelightWine Tasting & Auction. Reps from several heralded Bordeaux houses met with sommeliers and trade folks at the Sofitel in Washington, DC, to take a look at these new wines.

First of all: the wines I tasted were by no means bad. Indeed, I found most of them fresh, vibrant and very enjoyable to drink young. Tasting young Bordeaux can be taxing on the palate, leaving mine feeling dried out, beat up and tired. Plus, it can be extremely difficult to gauge the quality of a brutishly tannic young Bordeaux blend. But in 2013, the tannins, while quite structured in some wines, are smoother than usual, and the acidity has a crisp edge to it. The fruit maintains a leaner, more tart profile. Basically, these are wines to drink while the sturdier 2012s sleep in the cellar.

A bright spot seems to be the whites, many of which were picked before the late September rains, Bruno Laplane of Château Gazin Rocquencourt in Pessac-Léognan, told me. And the botrytis-laden sweet wines of Sauternes and Barsac are apparently quite impressive (I only tasted one, but, wow...)

Below are my notes on the 2013 Bordeaux wines I tasted.

2013 Château Gazin Rocquencourt Blanc - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Bright aromas of limes and hint of white pepper. Crunchy green apple on the palate, so crisp and nervy. Very nice. (89 points)

2013 Château Malartic-Lagravière Blanc - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Refreshing but creamy with green apples, limes and peach. A lingering sense of tea, lemongrass and honeysuckle. Complex, pretty, seems like it will improve with some age. (90 points)

2013 Château Gazin Rocquencourt - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Fruit smells juicy, deep and dark but the palate shows lots of refreshing brightness. Tart red currant fruit mixes with earth, tobacco, hints of greenness but not too much. Seems very approachable at this young age. (87 points)

2013 Château Malartic-Lagravière - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Darker berries than the Gazin Rocquencourt, this has juicy dark cherries and blackberries. Some smoke, earth, sage and tobacco add complexity. Juicy and vibrant, showing well. (88 points)

2013 Château Barde-Haut - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Vibrant, sweet red fruits on the nose and some vanilla. Juicy but tart on the palate with crunchy red fruits, accented by earth and toast. Moderately firm tannins but still quite fresh. (87 points)

2013 Clos l'Église (Pomerol) - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Dark and smoky on the nose with rich jammy red fruit. Firm, chewy and toasty with deep berry flavors along with cedar and earth. More concentrated, needs time, but very nice. (89 points)

2013 Château Lagrange (St. Julien) - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
Dark aromas with tart black currant, pencil lead and rich earth. Firm but fleshy, stays vibrant in the face of deep black currant fruit. Pencil lead, mineral, earth, such elegance and beautiful focus. (91 points)

2013 Château Kirwan - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
Elegant floral aromas with bright currant fruit. Bold but elegant on the palate with a brightness that makes it so appealing. Tart but juicy red currants, along with fresh violets and roses, earth and mineral tones. Fresh and delicious but time needed to show its best. (91 points)

2013 Château Lascombes - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
Gorgeous velvety fruit on the nose with sweet violets as well. Full and chewy on the palate but stays fresh. Currants topped with eucalyptus, cedar, violets. Rich but elegant and polished. (91 points)

2013 Château du Tertre - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
Vibrant red fruit on the nose with a fresh floral approach. Fresh and slick on the palate with velvety tannins and pretty red fruit. I get a deep sense of herbs, chestnut, bell pepper and savory spices that I find really attractive. (90 points)

2013 Château Giscours - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
Bold, spicy aromatics but elegant fruit. Silky, smooth, very vibrant. Tart but concentrated red fruits, some crunchy blackberries, mixed with tobacco, earth, minerals and shaved pencils. Needs time but some really pretty stuff going on here. (90 points)

2013 Château Phélan Ségur - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
Bold, spicy aromatics but elegant fruit. Silky, smooth, very vibrant. Tart but concentrated red fruits, some crunchy blackberries, mixed with tobacco, earth, minerals and shaved pencils. Needs time but some really pretty stuff going on here. (90 points)

2013 Château Lafon-Rochet - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
Pretty aromatics of vibrant currant fruit and spice. Smooth despite some solid structure, medium acidity, fresh red and black cherry and currants. Ends with floral tones. Plenty to unpack in the cellar. (88 points)

Nobody told the folks at Lynch Bages that
2013 was supposed to be a stinker vintage.

2013 Château Lynch-Bages - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Deep and exotic on the nose with black and red currants and cherries, rich earth and sweet spice. Firm but accessible tannins, lots of brightness with tart red and black currants. Notes of violets, graphite, sweet spice, lovely depth and complexity. Long and smooth, with a freshness that keeps the wine vibrant despite its cellar-worthy potential. (91 points)

2013 Château Montrose - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
Smells of bright currants, juicy cherries, roses, earth and minerals. I love the structure here, smooth but vibrant but refreshing acidity. Tart yet chewy black cherries, hints of cola, coffee, loam and pencil shavings. Shows strength but elegance, along with violets, pencil lead and lingering minerality. Long and lasting, this needs lots of time but it’s gorgeous at such a young age. Wow. (93 points)

2013 Château Guiraud - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Gorgeous golden-orange color. Smells so ripe and juicy with luscious apricot, honey and sweet spice. Creamy and rich but there’s a pervasive sense of freshness in spite of the honeyed mouthfeel. Flavors of almond, honey, spiced tea and white flowers on top of rich apricots and peach tarts. Long, vibrant, rich and pure. Wow, I’d love to see how this ages. (93 points)

A Chateauneuf-du-Pape Birthday

On my birthday I like to get together with some close friends, pop some corks, drink some wine and tell some stories. And since it's my birthday I get an excuse to let my obsessive side cut loose, and I spend a lot of time gathering wines I think people would enjoy. Well, this year, as I turn 29, I've been thinking a lot about the South of France, and how I need to go there very soon. I'm busy as hell with work and I've got so many other travel plans in the works, but I must get away to Avignon, to Bandol, to Aix and to the Southern Rhone Valley, to the crazy soils of Chateauneuf-du-Pape.

I can't help myself when it comes to CdP. Year in, year out, they're just some of the best wines I ever drink. This tasting was a great time to check up some some various vintages within CdP. One thing I love about the wines of Chateauneuf is their ability to translate a vintage into a glass, to interpret each season in a truthful way. Each vintage has a character, an attitude, it's own voice. I know it sounds corny, but I guaranteee, if you taste several vintages of good Chateauneufs side-by-side, you'll get what I mean.

It was interesting to taste many different vintages and discuss the differences with friends. Wine nerds and novices alike attended the tasting, but I think it's fair to say everyone had a blast. Now, the wines...

Opening White

2008 Domaine Raymond Usseglio & Fils Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc - France, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
We started off the tasting with this bottle I picked up from Weygandt Wines in Cleveland Park, DC. I picked this white Chateauneuf to kick off what would inevitably be a tasting dominated by reds. This wine is a blend of 40% grenache blanc and 20% each of roussanne, clairette and bourboulenc. On the nose: white flowers, papaya, hint of cotton candy, apricot, orange blossom. On the palate: fresh acid leads to a nutty, white peach feel with lemon zest and honey on the finish. Very acidic for a CdP, and my girlfriend said it was too much acid for her. For me, I was excited to see such a complex CdP blanc have so much freshness. It was even better after five hours of air exposure. A lot of white CdPs can be heavy, but not this one. 89 points

A Birth-Year Bordeaux

1983 Château La Croix du Casse - France, Bordeaux, Pomerol
I threw this Bordeaux into the tasting as a ringer of sorts. I approached this wine as an experiment, a unique drinking experience, and I had no expectations that the wine might actually taste good. Being form my birth year, I decided to pop this bottle and see if it had any life left. The color is a weird orange-red. The aromas are very pungent: rhubarb, garlic pickles, beef broth and wet mud. Soft tannins, medium acid (not too sharp). Lots of beef, leather and pickle juice flavors linger on the finish. This wine is totally crazy, and most people poured it out after one taste, but I give it points for insanity. My friend Tim described this wine as "D.O.A." I like to think I've aged better than this wine has. For a long time this Chateau La Croix du Casse was owned and operated by Jean-Michel Arcaute, who also owned the famous Chateau Clinet estate. Apparently, Arcaute died in a tragic boating accident in 2001, and I can’t figure out who makes the wine now. It’s a blend of 80 percent merlot-20 percent cab franc.  75 points

Bring on the Chateauneuf-du-Pape

1994 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape - France, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
In 1994 Beaucastel used more mourvedre grapes (40% versus the normal 30%), which may have something to do with this wine’s theme of leather, mushrooms and farmyard soil. It supposedly possesses the lowest percentage of grenache (30%) of any Chateauneuf-du-Pape, and the highest percentage of mourvedre. Whatever the final blend is, as soon as you open a Beaucastel, it's clear you're dealing with a unique wine. This wine stands up and announces itself proudly. Clear ruby color in the glass. The aromas are bright and alive, but also savory, showing peppercorn, bacon frying in a pan, bay leaf , all of which linger. The nuances and shifting nature of the aromas is really amazing. On the palate this wine is still bright and full of grippy tannins. The flavors are very complex and nuanced, showing grilled meat, sour cherry, dusty and snappy cranberry fruit, accented by licorice and charcoal. So pure, so fresh, really unbelievable. Several people chose this wine as their wine of the night. Tied with the 2001 Rayas for my favorite wine of the night. 93 points

2001 E. Guigal Châteauneuf-du-Pape
A blend of 80% grenache, 10% syrah, 5% mourvèdre, 5% other varieties. Pungent aromas of rhubarb, cherry skins, bitter coffee, raspberry greens. The wine still has a lot of grippy tannins and fresh acid. Flavors of red plums, coffee, peppered steak, cherry pits. This wine has a lot going on, and it shifted a lot over the course of several hours. This wine is nowhere near the end of its life. A lot of the people who attended the tasting thought this wine was a bit astringent, and I get that. For me, it’s an enjoyable CdP that has five more years ahead of it at least. Beautiful stuff. By the second day, the aromas were even more savory and I picked up some rose petal aromas as well. Finishes with hints of meat and dusty tannins. 90 points

2001 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Pignan Reserve
A bottle of Rayas is a special thing indeed. They use no stainless steel, no temperature controls, no new oak, and they age their wine in a mix of old school containers. The color of cloudy cherry compote in the glass. Bright aromas of cherries, cranberry, a whiff of white pepper. With time delicious aromas of bay leaf and rose petals came out. On the palate, the tannins are acid are so strong, but balanced perfectly. Red plums and snappy cranberry fruit on the palate, along with complex flavors of licorice, minerals and dried leaves. This is such a gorgeous, feminine wine, almost Burgundian. One of the most elegant Chateauneufs I've tasted in a long time. This wine was the group's favorite, and for good reason. Thanks, Ian, for contributing such a beauty. I’ve read that this wine is a minimum of 98% grenache, but sometimes 100%. 93 points

Domaine Les Cailloux is named after the Southern Rhone’s famous cailloux roulés, which are the large stones found scattered all over the Chateauneuf du Pape vineyards. The Les Cailloux blend, made by André Brunel, is usually a blend of 65% grenache, 20% mourvèdre, 12% syrah and 3% of other varieties, all of which come from vines averaging 60 years old.

2003 Les Cailloux (Lucien et André Brunel) Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Bright ruby color. It was clear at this point in the tasting that we were dealing with a fruitier, more bombastic kind of wine. Some of the new world haters (Tim, I'm looking at you) didn't like the wine's jammy profile. However, I think it is one of the better 2003 CdPs I've had, and one that shows a lot of personality but also some balance. Syrupy fruit on the nose, showing red licorice, melted cherries and rose petals. The palate is bold and jammy, with medium tannins and low acid. The low acid is what throws this wine for me. I need more structure. Still, the flavors of game, spices and earth come out with three hours being open. Still a pretty and yummy wine. Val really enjoyed this, which was no surprise. 89 points

2006 Les Cailloux (Lucien et André Brunel) Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Ruby-cherry colored. Aromas of sour cherry, beef fat and leather. A dense wine on the palate with hard-line tannins but a lot of fresh cherry and raspberry fruit. I really like the flavors of white pepper, corned beef and soy, which add complexity. A lot more acid and structure than the 2003, and a good example of the quality wines of the 2006 vintage. 90 points

2006 Clos du Mont-Olivet Châteauneuf-du-Pape
I was surprised by how vibrant and full this CdP was. I'll say it again, 2006 is an overlooked vintage but a lot of producers put out solid wines for less money. This one's bright cherry colored in the glass. Aromas of plum skins, sour cherries, white pepper, roses and clove. Very complex nose, and it got better and better over the course of the evening. Bold structure on the palate of lively acid and fine-grained tannins. Wild cherry and cassis fruit mixes with flavors of anise and smoke. There's a meaty aspect to this wine that is delicious. This is a really opulent wine, but one that maintains a real purity of flavors. 90 points

2008 Domaine Jean Royer Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Tradition
It was nice having a 2008 red in the mix, as I've really come to enjoy this vintage. Stuck between the 2007s and 2009s, 2008 might get overlooked sometimes. Extracted cherry color. The aromas are really opulent: red plum, iron, purple Mr. Sketch marker, a hint of olive. Plush and sexy on the palate. Cherry fruit mixes with minerals, charcoal and fresh sod. It's that acid on this wine that's got me exited, it's so pure and focused. Very easy to drink now, but I'd like to try it again in five years to see what other complexities come out of this wine. 91 points

A Night of (Mostly) Rhone Wines

Ah, the wines of the Rhone Valley: Northern Rhone syrah; the grenache, syrah and mourvedre (GSM) blends of Châteauneuf-du-Pape; viognier, roussanne and marsanne, those big and bold white varietals. Rhone Valley wines have always been my favorite in the world. Suffice it to say I was excited when some wine nerd friends and I decided to have a tasting dinner focused on Rhone varieties. The theme of the dinner was loose: bring a wine from the Rhone Valley or a wine from somewhere else made from a Rhone grape variety or a Rhone-style blend. The result was a great tasting of diverse wines.

The wines were consumed along with a lovely mix of rich Italian-inspired food at Dino's in Washington, DC's Cleveland Park neighborhood. It's long been one of my favorite restaurants, and a long-time gathering place for my wine crew. The food was spectacular, as always, and the service top-notch. I got a three-course meal, which started with Dino's house charcuterie platter containing lamb tongue, "truck patch pig head terrine," Tuscan liver spread and a wild boar and mustard pate. The compelxity of flavors and textures was crazy. For my main course I ordered my favorite dish: a pappardella ai cinghiale bianco, which is a lovely pasta served with ground wild boar, onion, wine and shaved pecorino. To finish it off I had a homemade ice cream topped with fresh espresso.

Now, to the wines...

The Whites

1990 Domaine du Viking Vouvray Tendre - France, Loire Valley, Vouvray
Okay, this isn't a Rhone white but it was a welcome addition to the tasting. The cork was crusted on top, but it came out without a problem. It was soaked almost to the end, but the wine inside was still lively. What a unique nose on this chenin blanc. Apricot, oil, white tea, apple sauce and, here’s the kicker, a distinct note of arugula and garlic. Crazy stuff. The palate has nice plump feel to it, almost waxy. Flavors of candied orange rind, lamp oil and a pungent flavor of green onion and arugula, no kidding. There’s a hint of sweetness that makes this wine easy to drink and fresh acid for balance. Quite nice, although clearly a wine for the open-minded. (87 pts.)

2004 Alban Vineyards Roussanne Estate - California, Central Coast, Edna Valley
I opened a bottle of this wine in March and absolutely loved it. I figured it would be fun to share another bottle with the group and see what they thought. I love the cloudy pineapple-copper color and the thick legs on this wine. You know this is gonna be a big wine just by looking at it. Aromas of pineapple, peanut shell, chestnut, mango and wax. (Is there such a thing as a mango candle?) Plump and rich on the palate, full of nutty flavors and tropical fruit, accented with honey and brown sugar. The acid, which tingles the palate, saves this wine from being too big and overdone. There’s some oak here (the wine is aged in two-thirds new French oak) but somehow it’s integrated. Age has done some really interesting things to this wine. The wine was even better the next day. (92 pts.)

2007 Kenneth Volk Viognier Live Oak Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Vibrant light gold color with fat legs. This viognier bursts with aromas of white peach, lemon zest, white flowers and fresh biscuits. On first sip, it’s evident we’re in California. Huge and fat, like oil on the palate, with flavors of honey, peach, mixed nuts and toast. This wine is very big and viscous, and the oak is a little too much for my palate. The alcohol burns a bit. I could see a lot of people loving this, but it’s not exactly my style. I like this producer a lot, and at least they warn you with “oak” right there in the name of the vineyard. (85 pts.)

A Blind Red

2005 Bodegas Dos Victorias Toro Gran Elías Mora - Spain, Castilla y León, Toro
This was poured blind before we moved into the Rhone wines. Bright purple color, showing a bit of age in the sour cherry-tinged rims. Dark, brooding aromas of sweet plum, cassis, clove and a hint of tobacco. The palate is packed with tight tannins and sweet cassis and blueberry fruit. A little low on the acid. The dark fruit is mixed with toasty oak and a distinct flavor of clove tobacco. My guess: a Toro with 5+ years on it. I don't mean to brag, but I was pretty excited that I nailed this one. This wine probably needs a decant or a few more years to unravel. (90 pts.)

(Mostly) Rhone Reds

2000 Domaine de la Charbonnière Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Mourre des Perdrix - France, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
I was pleasantly surprised by this wine. It was a good Chateauneuf to start with, being elegant and fresh. Ruby color, tinged with beef broth. Aromas of sour cherry, wild raspberry, tree bark and a bit of tomato paste. Silky and light on the palate, with fine tannins and fresh acid. Tangy, snappy red fruit, black pepper and charcoal flavors glide over the palate. Very nice, restrained wine. Almost Burgundian. (88 pts.)

1999 M. Chapoutier St. Joseph Les Granits - France, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph
Northern Rhone syrah, now we're talking. Vibrant, clear plum color in the glass. The aromas are elegant and complex: rhubarb, red currant, bacon fat, rosemary... just beautiful. On day two it was even more elegant and exotic. On the palate, this St. Joseph is everything I love about Northern Rhone syrah: solid tannic grip, fresh acid, and a beam of minerals and iron. Flavors of red plum fruit, grilled steak, a bit of charcoal. Lovely finish with hints of red licorice. This is still going strong. (91 pts.)

Friday Night Blind Tasting With Good Friends

Back in my the late 1990s, Stephen, Ian and I lived at the same dorm at a German boarding school. They were my best bros. Over the years, we've kept in touch. It had been ten years since the three of us had been together, so we were in the mood to celebrate. It just so happened that my wine tasting group was having a pre-holiday tasting.

So we wrapped all the wines in paper bags and met at good ol' Weygandt Wines in Cleveland Park. We served all wines blind and unveiled them at the end. There were very few non-stellar wines. The tasting was just phenomenal, and nearly every wine was interesting, complex and good for starting conversation. Pizza was served as well, which worked with the reds we were tasting. It was great to have Ian and Stephan stop in on such a great tasting. Tooch, you were missed.

Palate Cleanser

• 2005 Mönchhof Robert Eymael Riesling Spätlese Mosel Slate - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
  This had been opened for two days before we tasted it, but it was still going strong with honey and oil, slightly oxidized. Just a starter to get the palate ready for the real stuff.

White Flight

• 2009 Eric Morgat Savennières L'Enclos - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières
  Golden color. Aromas of apple, wax and hazelnut. Pulpy pear fruit on the palate, with nuts and golden raisins. The acid is intense, which keeps it balanced. I could tell this wine had some oak, which I don't find too much in Savennieres, but I still guessed it as a Loire chenin blanc. This is my first time with Morgat, and I've never heard about this producer before. But this style of zingy acid and minerality, combined with dried fruit and some nutty oak is really working for me. Absolutely delicious, and I think this would improve with a few years in the bottle. (91 pts.)
• 2001 Zind-Humbrecht Zind - France, Alsace, Alsace AOC
  Dark golden colored. Nose shows explosive honey, pistachio nut, and lychee. The palate is fresh with plump fruit, and high acid. There's some sweetness that reminds me of riesling, but an olive oil flavor that makes me think of some sort of strange Italian white wine. After much internal debate, I guessed this as an Alsace riesling. I think this does have some riesling in it, but I was had this feeling that there was just something Alsatian about this wine. (89 pts.)
• 2005 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
  Light gold color It was love at first sniff: gala apples, popcorn, marshmallow and then a rush of lemon. The palate is rich and creamy, but the acid is right on. Big, but balanced, with lots of hazelnut on the finish, which is really long. I guessed it as a 2009 chassagne-montrachet. This was my first time with this producer, and I was very impressed. (93 pts.)
• 2009 Cameron Chardonnay Blanc Clos Electrique - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Dundee Hills
  Medium yellow color. Aromas of flowers, lemon cleaner, tangerine rind. Very complex nose. The palate is gorgeous, and heavy on the fruit. But there's delicious high acid. It starts really plump with lots of honeycomb, then transitions to fresh, lemon and floral flavors. Incredibly long finish. It got better with air, and it was clear tasting this blind that it was too early to be drinking this. I was happy to see it was a Cameron Clos Electrique, which has become one of my favorite domestic chardonnays. The 2008 I had recently showed better, but I really think the 2009 has a long, increasingly complex life ahead of it. (93 pts.)
• 2005 Domaine Bernard Defaix Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
  Medium yellow color. The nose shows popcorn, pear and a distinct aroma of brie rind. The palate is bold and intense, and there is some butter and oak here. Tasted blind, we're clearly in chardonnay territory. What's unique about this wine is the distinct flavor of limestone and seashell that made me think Chablis. I was glad to see this was a Defaix, as I've enjoyed this producer for years. It was really delicious, and I like the combination of flavors. Thanks, Bob, for popping this. I loved it. (91 pts.)
• 2009 Crowley Chardonnay Maresh Vineyard - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Dundee Hills
  Light gold color. The nose showed lots of honeydew melon, like pure, concentrated honeydew. Absolutely intoxicating. Also aromas of apricot and rich apple. It almost reminded me of a white rhone blend on the nose. The palate is a confluence of intensity and freshness that is just delicious. Coconut, cream, marshmallow, lemon, yellow apple. It's absolutely delicious, and I guessed it as a Sonoma chardonnay. Go Willamette Valley! This is an excellent chardonnay that really impressed me. It got more expressive with air, and it has years ahead of it. Thanks, Brett, for again reminding me that Oregon produces some blissful chardonnays. (94 pts.)

Reds

• 2001 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru
  I'm not going to score this wine, because once it was unveiled I, and the other tasters, thought this was not a full-quality bottle. Maybe it was stored badly or just an off bottle. It was drinkable, just not at all as good as I know this wine is. Bright red color with a hint of amber. It smells like meat and red cherries. The palate shows dense tannic grip. Something tastes burned in this wine, like someone threw a bunch of cherries onto a grill. It doesn't taste of oak, just ash. Short finish. I thought it was a messed-up syrah. I scored it 82 blind.
• 2008 Uwe Schiefer Blaufränkisch Szapary - Austria, Burgenland, Südburgenland
  Bright red color in the glass, just vibrant and clear. Aromas of sour cherry and hemp. It seriously smells like cranberries wrapped in dried seaweed. The aromas on this wine are nothing short of ecstatic. The palate is really silky and juicy, with ripe brambly fruit, solid acid, and a kick of tannins. Tasted blind, I was guessing all over the map. It wasn't dark and dense enough to be new world, but I couldn't place it in the old world. I was thrilled to see it was an Uew Schiefer. I've loved his blaufrankisch before, and this one was just exceptional. (91 pts.)
• 2010 Daniel Bouland Morgon Vieilles Vignes Corcelette - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon
  The color and nose on this wine are classic cru Beaujolais. Vibrant red color, and you can see your fingers through the glass. The aromas are bright and lively, cherry, some vanilla. The palate has surprisingly grippy tannins. Lots of plush currant fruit, but it maintains a lightness and sexiness. Tasted blind, I guessed this as a 2009 cru Beaujolais. I'm excited about the 2010s, and this was a solid example. Thanks to Stephen for this contribution to the tasting. (89 pts.)
• 2003 Louis Jadot Nuits St. Georges - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges
  I tasted this wine blind and loved it. I was really surprised to see it was a basic, village-level Burgundy. This wine outperforms its appellation. The color is ruby, with just a hint of brown. The nose is very focused on earth, mushroom, bacon and loam. I absolutely love the nose. The palate is full, with lots of tannins. Flavors of olive tapenade are mixed it with sour cherry. It's a big wine, expressing the heft of the 2003 vintage, but it maintains a feminine mystique. Absolutely delicious. (93 pts.)
• 2004 Domaine de Baron'Arques Limoux - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Limoux
  The nose smelled very unique on this wine. It was off-putting for some at the tasting, but I enjoyed it. I got a distinct note of sardine, also white pepper and some cherry and rhubarb. Really strange nose, but I like strange. The palate has gritty tannins, dense black and red fruit. There's a flavor on the finish that reminds me of curry, maybe a little bit of allspice? I guessed mourvedre, just because I knew it was going to be something a little bit out of the ordinary. Turns out it's a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Grenache, Syrah and Malbec. It's a kitchen sink of grapes, but it's a solid wine that will surely start up some academic discussion. (89 pts.)
• 2009 Domaine Monpertuis (Paul Jeune) Vin de Pays du Gard Cuvée Counoise - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays du Gard
  I tasted this blind and was excited to find out it was only twelve dollars! It really overdelivers for the price. The nose shows fresh cherries and some earthy aromas. The palate is really lush and delicious, with a soft and round feel to the wine from beginning to end. I wondered if it was pinot noir, but there was something in this wine I couldn't recognize. For the price, this is a really solid wine that has some complexity. (88 pts.)
• 2009 Reynvaan Family Vineyards Syrah Stonessence - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley
  Wow. This is a really unique wine. The aromas are amazing: sour cherry, rare steak, plum skins and a distinct note of green pepper. Smelling this blind, I was wondering if this was some sort of crazy cabernet franc. But the palate is something else entirely. It's big, bold and rich, but maintains a beautiful freshness. The plum fruit and meat flavors glide over the palate. I love this producer, and even when tasted blind these wines wow me. Apparently this 100% syrah is only made in certain years. It's a beautiful interpretation of syrah. (94 pts.)
• 2009 Rivers-Marie Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
  The nose on this wine is heavenly: strawberry rhubarb, licorice, rose petal and orange rind. On the palate, this wine is fresh and fruity, but balanced with delicious cranberry fruit. There's a distinct orange rind flavor that I absolutely love. It tastes so fresh and pure. This is an absolutely gorgeous wine. Tasted blind: 94 points. I was a bit tipsy at this point of the night, but it wasn't just that. Everyone loved this wine and it was several people's wine of the night. (94 pts.)

Dessert

• 2001 Château Lamothe Guignard - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
  This was my contribution to the tasting. It's golden honey colored in the glass with lots of viscosity. The nose is textbook Sauternes: apricot, botrytis, a bit of nail polish. The palate is full of honey, apricot, candied peach, but there's also some chalk and minerals on the finish. The acid isn't very high, but I found it delicious. It's a solid, classic Sauternes. (90 pts.)
• N.V. Broadbent Madeira Five Year Reserve - Portugal, Madeira
  Beautiful caramel color. The nose shows almond shell, caramel, and a bit of red apple. Very gushy on the palate. Thick, but not too much. Lovely nutty, honey finish, which is long. (88 pts.)