Wine Reviews: California White Wines

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, blends, this report features a bunch of California white wines from all over the state. The Dragonette Cellars Duvarita Vineyard 2014 was shockingly good, while Sonoma Chardonnay purveyor La Pitchoune continues to impress me with their 2013s. Toss in some newly-released Sauvignon Blancs and a few blends, and you've got a nice selection of late summer sippers.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted single blind.

2014 Dragonette Cellars Chardonnay Duvarita Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County

SRP: $60

Medium gold color. Aromas of lemon curd, oranges, caramel apple, along with a kick of minerals, chalk and shells — this is quite exciting to sniff. Medium-full-bodied, I love the mouthfeel: plump and creamy yet balanced by vibrant acidity. Lemon meringue meets baked apple and peach tart. I love the complexity of honey, bread crumbs, graham cracker, a lively mineral kick. Rich but elegant and harmonious, this scores high in the deliciousness ranking. This wine comes out slugging, but it’s precision is so impressive. Wow, folks. Aged 12 months in 12% new French oak. From a clearly fascinating site in sandy soils west of the Sta. Rita Hills appellation. (92 points)

2014 Frank Family Vineyards Chardonnay - California, Napa, Carneros

SRP: $35

Light gold color. A juicy, more tropical appeal on the nose, like papaya and pineapple mixed in with bruised apple and honeybutter. Lovely creamy texture on the palate, some medium acidity keeps it moving forward, but this is a velvety almost oily mouthfeel. Bruised apple, apricot jam, orange marmalade, those flavors are topped in almond, candle wax, clover honey and cinnamon sticks. Despite these rich flavors, the wine maintains vivacity and brightness, especially on the finish, where a kick of acidity and minerals leaves the palate wanting more. (89 points)

2014 Shafer Chardonnay Red Shoulder Ranch - California, Napa, Carneros

SRP: $52

Medium gold color. Gorgeous nose of yellow flowers, apple slices, orange peel, dried apricot, honey and some mountain stream rocks. Chunky texture on the palate, almost chewy (14.9% alcohol) but the acidity helps balance it out. Straight-up delicious, too: yellow apple, peaches, oranges and pineapples, topped in chopped nuts, honeycomb and almond skin. A nice kick of rocks and minerals bounces off the oak-influenced elements. Almost dense at this point but it opens up a lot, and will surely continue to do so in the cellar. No maloactic fermentation, this is aged 14 months in 3/4 new French oak. The grapes come from a single vineyard in Carneros. (91 points)

2015 Matanzas Creek Winery Chardonnay Sonoma County - California, Sonoma County

SRP: $26

Medium gold color. Smells of juicy pears, yellow apple and apricot jam with some nutty and butterscotch elements as well. Plump texture on the palate, this is a richly creamy wine but some slight acidity keeps it from feeling too heavy. Juicy apricot and bruised apple fruit mixes with nougat, peanut shell and butterscotch elements. Not too toasty or rich, but plenty of those big, delicious Chardonnay elements in this wine. Fermented in about 40% new French oak with full maloactic fermentation. (86 points)

2014 J Vineyards & Winery Chardonnay Estate - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

SRP: $28

Light gold color. Bright floral notes mix with all colors of apples, and some aromas of hazelnut and almond. Juicy and round on the palate but cool acidity keeps it lively. Plump pears, baked apples and apricots mix with honeyed tea, cinnamon spice and caramel popcorn. Rich in texture and flavor but this is refreshing as well as delicious. Barrel-fermented and aged nine months in 25% new French oak. (87 points)

2014 Frei Brothers Chardonnay Reserve - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

SRP: $20

Gold color. Smells of bruised apples, toasted almond, honey — you get the idea of the style. Plump and creamy on the palate, some light acidity helps. This wine is full of apricot, yellow apples, topped with nougat, cinnamon, hazelnut and butterscotch. A typical style, but it tastes good. (85 points)

2013 La Pitchoune Chardonnay Pratt Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

SRP: $68

Light gold color. Smells like golden apples, juicy pears, mixed with honeysuckle, cinnamon, almond and crushed chalk. Full and creamy, a rich and lush feel, but the acidity keeps it firing. Plump yellow fruit (plum, appple, pear) and loaded with non-fruit complexity: honey, almond, nutmeg and clove. But these flavors are matched with chalk, wildflowers and sea spray. A delicious big boy of a Chardonnay, but it's paradoxically surgical. I’d love to re-taste in a few years. Aged 16 months in 1/3 new French oak. (91 points)

2013 La Pitchoune Chardonnay Chenoweth Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

SRP: $88

Pretty golden color. I love the salty, nettle and white floral components to the nose, which liven up the rich apple and yellow plum fruit. Full-bodied, but this wine hides its weight well via the crisp acidity. Juicy yellow apple and plum, apricot and orange, mix in some honeycomb, croissant, salted butter. There’s a vibrant sense of sea shell and minerality in this wine, and the finish is long, creamy but crisp. Beautiful stuff — this is what my palate craves in Sonoma Chardonnay. I’d love to retaste in two or three years. Aged 16 months in 50% new French oak. (92 points)

2014 Gundlach Bundschu Chardonnay Estate Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $27

Light gold color. Very floral and bright on the nose with peaches and lychee, backed up by notes of cucumber and rosewater. Creamy texture, vibrant acidity, the fruit is very tropical (guava, pineapple, passion fruit), backed up by sweet honey, brown sugar and nougat. Sweet floral perfume pervades the finish. No maloactic fermentation, this spends 10 months in 20% new French oak. (87 points)

2013 Agnitio Wines Chardonnay Sun Chase Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $50

Light gold color. Smells of yellow apples and apricots covered in nougat, honey, lilies and clean laundry. Plump and creamy texture on the palate, acidity keeps it moderately fresh. Apricots and spiced apple sauce flavors mix with honey, chopped almonds and white tea. A rich style but it's not heavy, and I get this lively mineral presence in the wine that keeps it interesting. This wine sees 1/4 maloactic fermentation and time in 25% new French oak. (88 points)

2015 Matanzas Creek Winery Sauvignon Blanc - California, Sonoma County

SRP: $22

Medium yellow color. Rich aromatics of guava, pineapple and limes, topped with lemongrass and sliced jalapenos. Medium-bodied, creamy, slightly waxy texture on the palate with medium acidity. Chunky pineapple and mango fruit blends nicely with citrus zest, grapefruit, salted lime and an integrated mix of lemon grass, white pepper and chalk. Solid stuff for the price. Includes 7% Semillon. (87 points)

2014 Murrieta's Well The Whip - California, San Francisco Bay, Livermore Valley

SRP: $24

Pale lemon color. Smells insanely floral and soapy, like perfume, honeysuckle and laundry powder on top of oranges and lychee. Medium-bodied with a slightly waxy mouthfeel and some moderate acidity. The oranges, white peaches and pineapple fruit is juicy and topped with candle wax, floral perfume, laundry soap and sugar cane and orange blossom. Really interesting flavors, here, but if you dislike floral notes or avoid this wine. A kitchen sink blend of Semillon, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Orange Muscat, Muscat Canelli and Viognier. (85 points)

2015 Tom Gore Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc - California

SRP: $13

Medium straw color. Nose of grapefruit and lime topped with white and green peppers, some honeysuckle as well. Medium-bodied with medium but refreshing acidity. The grapefruit and tangerines are ripe but tangy and blended in with elements of pepper, lemongrass and honeysuckle. Not too complex but very pleasant and refreshing. (85 points)

2014 Grgich Hills Fumé Blanc Dry Sauvignon Blanc - California, Napa Valley

SRP: $31

Medium straw color. Aromas of juicy white peach, green apple mixed with elements of almond and green beans, honeysuckle and crushed chalk. Medium-plus-bodied with a creamy texture but bright acidity keeps it crisp and clean. Honeysuckle, lemongrass, chalk and minerals accent the green apple, sliced peaches and honeydew melon. Juicy fruit is mixed with quite complex elements of almond, honey, white tea, chalk and minerals. Tasty but racy stuff — another solid vintage of this wine. About 80% of this comes from the Musque clone, which accentuates these fresh floral elements. Aged six months in old French oak, which rounds out the wine but doesn’t impart oaky flavors. Nicely done, per usual. (88 points)

2015 Chronic Cellars Eunice X Chronic Cellars - California, Central Coast

SRP: $15

Light yellow color. Honey, almonds and yellow flower aromas on top of apricot and yellow apple. On the palate, this shows a creamy, waxy texture but some solid acid keeps it quite balanced. Apricots, yellow plums, bruised apple, the fruit is backed up with some floral, white tea and honeycomb elements. Straight-up fun, but some nice balance and diversity of flavors. A blend of75% Chardonnay, 14% Viognier, 8% Roussanne and 3% Marsanne. (86 points)

Welcome Summer With California White Wine

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Let’s take a break from Chardonnay and focus on some other white wine options from California. Though I love Cali Chard, it’s exciting to come across a diverse group of Gewürztraminer, Riesling  Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc from the Golden State. I enjoy California whites year round, but warm weather makes these wines even more attractive.

This grab bag of California whites was received as trade samples and tasted single-blind.

2014 Niner Wine Estates Albariño Jespersen Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Edna Valley
SRP: $20
Straw-light gold color. Aromas burst out of the glass: white peach, guava, yellow flowers, also some gummy bears and peach ring candies. Bright acid frames the wine well as it rolls across the palate, lots of white peaches, juicy apricot, cantaloupe melon, backed up by some yellow flowers, honeysuckle and clover notes. Juicy, with gummy candy notes, yet dry and crisp. A unique flavor profile and presence on the palate, check this out if you’re looking for something bright, fruity and crowd-friendly. (88 points)

2013 Gundlach Bundschu Gewürztraminer Estate Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $23
Light yellow color. Nose of white peach, papaya, lime juice drizzled on top, a bit of river rocks and mineral notes as well. Bursting with lime and white peach on the palate, it has a creamy mouthfeel but the acid streaks through from start to finish. Complex notes of lychee nut, dried honey, ginger tea, but there’s an underlying sense of stony minerality. Dry, bracing, nervy and complex. An example of what can be done with this grape in the right place at the right time. (89 points)

2013 Smith Madrone Riesling - California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $27
Pale straw color. Lovely limestone, crushed shells and chalk on the nose, overtop of white peach and yellow apples. Crisp and bracing, with fine acid and a mineral-centric approach. I get thse sense I’m drinking lime juice from a glass made of crushed rocks and chalk. Juicy white peach and apricot mix with sliced Granny Smith apples, a hint of honey. A complex but clean and refreshing wine. Smith-Madrone are masters of Napa Riesling. (91 points)

2013 Clayhouse Vineyard Grenache Blanc/Viognier Red Cedar Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

SRP: $23
Light gold color. Zesty and flower-driven on the nose, like lemon, lime peels and tangerines tossed with honeysuckle and white tea leaves. Decent acid, but lots of creaminess and juicy tropical fruit elements. White peach and papaya fruit, some white tea and maybe mint note? Nutty, too with nougat and whipped butter, not to mention hints of sea salt and chalk. Quite complex, definitely tasty, this stuff would work well with all sorts of food. 70% Grenache Blanc and 30% Viognier. (88 points)

2013 La Merika Pinot Grigio - California, Central Coast, Monterey
SRP: $13
Light and airy aromas, green melon and lemons mix with honeysuckle. Medium-bodied, medium acidity, a plump feel to the cantaloupe, nectarine and honeydew fruit (some lime drizzled on top), and I also get some honeycomb and green tea elements. A bit simple, but solid and would probably be a big crowd-pleaser for brunches or picnics. (85 points)

2013 Swanson Pinot Grigio - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Mountain
SRP: $21
Medium straw color. Very bright on the nose, lots of white peach, mango and mixed yellow and white flowers, some honeycomb and spring breeze notes. Light-medium bodied with moderate acid, the white peach and lemon flavors mix with cucumber water, white tea and honey notes. A bit light and not too complex, but the flavors are tasty and it’s definitely refreshing and fun. Fermented in all stainless steel, this wine includes 11% Oakville Chardonnay. (86 points)

2014 Landmark Pinot Gris Hop Kiln - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $20
Light gold color, hint of spritz. Very pretty nose: apricot jam, orange peel, honey, caramel apple and a note that reminds me of lager beer. Nice and creamy on the palate, but the acid zips in and cleans it up. The yellow apple, apricot and orange marmalade flavors are rich and full, but the wine also shows notes of white tea, chalk, nougat and raw almonds. Could be mistaken for a Chardonnay, but has a bit more tropical aspects to it. I’m intrigued. Fermented in half stainless steel and half oak barrels. (90 points)

2014 Kendall-Jackson Pinot Gris Vintner’s Reserve - California
SRP: $15
Pale gold color. Bright aromas, lemons, green apples, some richer honeyed and floral notes, hints of hay and almonds. Medium-bodied, some refreshing acid, a light and bright style with crispness and freshness. Sliced yellow and green apples, lemon, but also some nougat, honeycomb and almond notes. An interesting Pinot Gris that blends in 9% Roussanne, 4% Gruner Veltliner, 3% Chardonnay, 3% Viognier and 2% Albarino. Most of the fruit comes from Monterey, but some Sonoma, Lake and Santa Barbara juice mixed in. (86 points)

2014 Niner Wine Estates Sauvignon Blanc - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $20
Bright straw color. Nose shows grapefruit, kiwi, white peach, some underlying river stream and white floral tones. Tangy acid, medium+ bodied, I like the creamy-nutty aspects, woven in well with the kiwi, grapefruit and apricot flavors. Hints of seashell, mountain stream and chalk, along with a slight white floral and spice note. Bright, clean, refreshing, but some attractive richness. Includes 10% Semillon, and 10% of the wine sees French oak. (87 points)

Known more for their burly reds, Justin puts
out one hell of a value-driven Sauvignon Blanc

2014 Justin Vineyards & Winery Sauvignon Blanc - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $14
Light gold color. Bursting with white peach and guava on the nose, but some bright lime and sea breeze notes, along with a rather complex mixture of grass, herbs and peppers. Full bodied but brisk acid keeps it fresh and tingling on the tongue. Loads of green pear, Granny Smith apple and lime drizzled on top. So very tangy and green-fruit dominated, but also shows some richer elements of honey and guava. Complex seashell, mountain stream, smashed chalk. Very interesting, but ultimately a wine made for the dinner table. Order the seafood tower! What a bargain for $14. (90 points)

2014 Star Lane Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc - California, Central Coast, Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara
SRP: $22
Light gold color. Nose: grapefruit, lime, white peach, jalapeno and crushed sea shells. Tangy, crisp, bright palate, moderate creaminess, but a tart-citrus-driven wine (grapefruit, lime), hints of white peach. A clean, zesty feel with notes of chalk, white pepper, jalapeno and sea breeze. Acidity is really attractive and refreshing on the back end. Tart and nervy, begging for oysters and could stand up to some hot weather. (87 points)

2013 Matanzas Creek Winery Sauvignon Blanc Bennett Valley - California, Sonoma County, Bennett Valley
SRP: $32
Bright sunshine on the nose: yellow flowers, white peach, guava, some notes of green pepper and sea salt. Tart acid, medium+ body. Green apples and grapefruit mix with peach, guava and mango, but add in some bright mineral and chalk notes, subtle white pepper and grass. A very fresh and vibrant wine despite the richness. Honeyed tea comes out with time but the wine stays brisk. Long, salty finish. (89 points)

You can't go wrong with either of these 2013 Sauv Blancs from Matanzas Creek.

2013 Matanzas Creek Winery Sauvignon Blanc Helena Bench - California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
SRP: $40
Slightly more nuanced aromatics than the Bennett Valley: white peach, lime, grapefruit, hints of honeyed tea, less green pepper and more complex mineral and floral tones. Vibrant acidic backbone but smooth and creamy on the palate. Lovely balance, rich but graceful. White peach, guava, pineapple and lime, dusted with chalk, limestone, crushed hazelnut shell and honeycomb. Faint white pepper and oyster shell. Long and clean yet open and forward. Very pretty stuff. (90 points)

2013 Agnitio Wines Sauvignon Blanc - California, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll
SRP: $30
Pale straw color. Nose of yellow apple, white peach, lemon, some cucumber water, honey and white tea. Very creamy body, medium acid, flavors of yellow apple, apricot jam, lemon curd, and white peach are juicy and ripe, mixed in with honeyed green tea, almond and cotton candy notes. Ripe, forward approach, but stays clean — no green or herbal elements here, just richness and fruit. Creamy finish with lots of honey. Barrel fermented (8% new), aged on the lees, a richer style but still refreshing. (88 points)

Bedrock Rocks With Sonoma Valley Whites

Sonoma County’s Bedrock is a source of endlessly exciting wines. Seriously, I’ve tasted many Bedrock wines and not a “Meh” or “I guess it’s decent” has ever crossed my mind.

It’s no surprise that Bedrock wines excite: winemaker Morgan Twain-Peterson has wine is his blood. Morgan’s father, Joel Peterson, kicked off the famous Sonoma County Zin institution back in the 1970s, and Morgan grew up around wine.

John Bonné, San Francisco Chronicle wine writer and author of “The New California Wine” named Twain-Peterson one of two winemakers of the year for 2014, and I think he's a worthy recipient of the title.

Twain-Peterson casts a wide net with his bottlings: ancient vine Zinfandels, Syrah from the Sonoma Coast, a delicious Mourvedre rosé from Sonoma Valley, and a range of “heritage” wines aimed at reclaiming the field blend history of Sonoma County. Under the Abrente label, a project with winemaker Michael Havens, Twain-Peterson focuses on relatively obscure whites like Albarino and Godello.

I recently tasted two of Twain-Peterson’s white wines from the 2013 vintage and, of course, I was thrilled.

Compagni Portis wines are truly singular in their sense of place.

2013 Bedrock Wine Co. Heritage Compagni Portis - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley

($26)

Bright clear lemon color. Bursting with white peach, nectarine, banana and lychee on the nose, some waxy elements, candied orange peel, white pepper and clove. Full-bodied with a waxy mouthfeel, the wine glides over the palate and coats it, but doesn’t feel heavy because of the persistent and crisp acid. Nutty, not oaky, like peanut skin and almonds with hints of olive oil and dried honey. I love the grapefruit pith mixed with white pepper, herbal tea and clove. Complex and thought-provoking, yet effortlessly enjoyable, which is why I love Bedrock wines. I’d like to revisit this in two or three more years. A throwback California white field blend from an old and unique vineyard, this is a mix of Gewurztraminer, Trousseau Gris, Riesling, Roter Veltliner, Chardonnay and so on. (91 points)

2013 Bedrock Wine Co. Godello Abrente - California, Sonoma, Sonoma Valley

($23)

Light gold color. Nose of white flowers, honeysuckle, limestone and sea salt on top of green pears and green melon. On the palate, this wine shows quite a lot of brisk acid, so refreshing and intense from start to finish. While a creamy body coats the palate, the wine never feels heavy. The flavors tend toward the green pear, kiwi and green melon, while notes of honey and white tea and candied citrus peel add complexity. Briny finish, with layers of complex wax and tea elements. With time, I get more nutty and waxy elements, with intense sea salt and minerals. Stunning, long, prickly finish. Fermented with native yeasts in stainless steel, then aged in neutral oak. A project with Michael Havens, this wine comes from John Baillie’s Birdland Vineyard. (91 points)

I’ve got some Bedrock reds sleeping for a few years, but these white wines are stunning and will be an integral part of my California white wine consumption for years to come.

California Whites: Anything But Chardonnay

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Summer and California white wine is always a good pairing.

I was quite impressed with this lot of Anything But Chardonnay (ABC) samples from California. From Albariño to Sauvignon Blanc, these wines would all work well as summer party sippers, although the standouts are complex and food-friendly enough to deserve a long, contemplative meal.

All wines were received as trade samples and tasted single-blind as part of a report for the daily wine blog Terroirist.

2013 Voss Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley - California, Napa Valley 

SRP: $20
Very pale straw color. Nose bursts with ruby red grapefruit, lemon-lime and notes of lavender and baby’s breath, all combining in aromatic bliss. Very fresh and lively with tangy acid and a moderately creamy mouthfeel. Focused and elegant, with grapefruit and white peach flavors. Slight orange blossom and a spicy-floral tone that reminds me of baby’s breath. Such a clean wine, but it doesn’t lack depth or flavor by any means. Only 12% alcohol. (89 points)

2012 McGah Family Cellars Sauvignon Blanc “1070 Green” - California, Napa Valley, Rutherford

SRP: $25
Light gold color. Aromas of lemon-lime, grapefruit, oceanic notes and just a hint of grass and sprouts. Creamy body but zippy acid on the palate. Green pear and ruby red grapefruit mixes with lots of mineral and limestone notes. Crisp, clean, but impressive depth, with notes of honeycomb and wax on the finish. (89 points)

2009 Cornerstone Cellars Sauvignon Blanc - California, Napa Valley

SRP: $50
Clean lemon color. Green melon, lime and sea breeze on the nose, a bit of white pepper and floral notes. Crisp and tangy throughout, I get themes of lime, honeydew melon, white peach, but also underlying spice and sea brine notes, which I like. A lot of depth to this wine, equal parts creamy fruit and live-wire acid and minerals. Complex, and very delicious, begging for oysters, salads, goat cheese. I was surprised to see it’s a 2009 because, if anything, I thought this could stand a year or two. Impressive stuff. (90 points)

2010 Cornerstone Cellars Sauvignon Blanc - California, Napa Valley

SRP: $50
A bright lemon-lime color in the glass. So fresh, smells of grapefruit, lemon peel, green melon, a bit of underlying honey, some sweet basil and limestone notes. Creamy body but tart and refreshing acid. Rich and honeyed, but so fresh, with lemon, apricot, white peach, and a lovely mix of mountain stream, minerals, sea shells and white flowers. Clean, but long and complex. (90 points)

2011 Cornerstone Cellars Sauvignon Blanc - California, Napa Valley

SRP: $30
Medium lemon colored. Aromas of honeydew melon, ruby red grapefruit, apricot as well as a hint of sweet basil and crushed rocks. Tangy acid lines up with some richness on the body, and the result is a bold but balanced wine. Flavors of lemon pie, apricot and honeydew mix well with sea shell, mineral and floral notes. A hint of wax and nutshell on the finish. Bold but complex and lively. Fermented in stainless steel but aged in old oak, and I like the result a lot. (90 points)

2012 Vineyard 29 Sauvignon Blanc “Cru” - California, Napa Valley

SRP: $54
A light straw-green color. Very floral on the nose (honeysuckle, citrus blossom, potpourri spice) along with a parsley note. Tangy citrus peel (grapefruit, nectarine, lime) mixes with a white peach and pineapple fruit. I get this salted lime margarita element as well, and it kicks. Crisp but deep, with a bunch of complex mineral, honey and floral tones. Very elegant stuff, showing a lot of complexity. Long, mineral-driven finish with sea brine and oyster shell. Wow, this reaches that next level of excellence that few Napa Sauv Blancs do (for my palate). The wine sees a mix of old and new French oak, concrete and stainless steel. My second vintage of this wine, tasted blind, and I’m officially a huge fan. (93 points)

2012 Alta Maria Sauvignon Blanc - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County

SRP: $18
Pale straw color. Grapefruit, lime zest, rosemary and green onion aromas. Tangy acid rips across the palate of this medium-bodied wine. Flavors mirror the aromas, but a bit of creamy peach and green melon rind as well. The grass and herbal flavors aren’t too strong, and I also get some honeysuckle. Great cut to this wine. Not very deep, but quality juice. (86 points)

2012 Foppiano Sauvignon Blanc Russian River Valley - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

SRP: $15
Very pale straw color. Lemon, grapefruit and sea shells on the nose, a hint of green herbs. Crisp and clean acid, a zingy mouthfeel. Green apple peel and lemon mix with a hint of apricot. I also get sea breeze, limestone and a hint of green onion. Straightforward stuff, but well-done. (86 points)

2012 Nico Fiano Tanya’s Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

SRP: $25
A yellow-gold color. Floral aromas, some white peach, papaya and sea salt. Creamy on the palate, with flavors of pineapple, orange marmalade and honey butter. But the wine is also really zesty, with notes of orange peel, mussel shell and sea salt. The combination is a tropical yet oceanic wine that’s very complex. From a single vineyard in the RRV, I love the unique interpretation of a unique variety. (89 points)

2012 Tablas Creek Côtes de Tablas Blanc - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $27
Medium yellow color. Lovely aromatic mix of spice (white pepper, sage) and flowers (orange blossom, honeysuckle), along with notes of sea salt, white tea and limestone. Generously fleshy texture but medium acid throughout. A beautiful sense of purity and freshness pervades this wine. Flavors of apricot, green melon, white peach and lychee are accented by nutshell, lemon oil, honeyed tea and lots of different floral notes. Very pretty, and so food-friendly. A blend of 34% Viognier, 30% Marsanne, 30% Grenache Blanc and 6% Roussanne. (90 points)

2013 Bonny Doon Vineyard Albariño Kristy Vineyard & Jespersen Ranch - California, Central Coast

SRP: $18
A straw-banana peel color. The nose is a fresh combination of honeysuckle, white peach, also some oyster shell and sea breeze notes. Clean acid and a plump but balanced mouthfeel. The green apple, lime, apricot and papaya notes are fresh and tangy, backed up by mountain stream, mineral and a slight green tea note. Very brisk and refreshing (13.2% alcohol) a beautiful summer sipper but enough complexity and length to keep it really interesting. (89 points)

Sipping on Some Rhone Ranger Wines

Two Shepherds makes some exciting, elegant and ageworthy Rhone whites

Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to attend the 2014 Rhone Rangers conference in San Francisco earlier this week. Being an East Coast guy has its drawbacks.

Even though I missed out on this gathering of Rhone-inspired American winemakers, I got to sip some Rhone Ranger goodies for an online tasting last week. I got together with David White of Terroirist, Frank Morgan of Drink What U Like and some other wine friends for an online Twitter tasting focused on Rhone Ranger wines. A drop in the bucket compared to the wines poured at the event, but it was a lot of fun.

I had a good time tweeting with folks like Fred Swan (@norcalwine), @RandallGrahm of Bonny Doon and William Allen (@2ShepherdsWine) about what’s going in vis-à-vis Rhone varieties in California.

I’ve long been a huge fan of California-Rhone wines. This tasting gave me a few more reasons why…

2012 Two Shepherds Pastoral Blanc Saralee's Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
Clean and fresh on the notes, with peach, green apple, saline note. On the palate, crisp but creamy with whipped honey and sea salt notes. Light and crisp but not weak. I get some interesting waxy-walnut notes, maybe some white tea with honey. A blend of 50% Roussanne, 35% Marsanne, 10% Viognier and 5% Grenache Blanc, fermented and aged in neutral oak. A bit more depth than I remember from the 2011. (90 points) 

2012 Two Shepherds Grenache Blanc Saarloos Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
Aromas of seashell, green apple, some papaya, white flowers, sea salt and an herbal tea note. On the palate, this is creamy but so fresh from the acid. Tart green apple, green melon and lychee flavors mix with mineral and all sorts of sea shells. Long, but fresh and lean, showing lots of nuance. (90 points) 

2011 Bonny Doon Vineyard Le Cigare Blanc Reserve En Bonbonne - California, Central Coast, Arroyo Seco
On the nose, a sharp, almost cheese-like note blends in with grapefruit, apple peels and crushed sweet tarts. Unique to say the least. Tart green apple, white peach, apricot, lime peel, saline, some green herbal notes. An herbal, musky aspect with a note of cheese rind on the finish. A blend of co-fermented 62% Grenache Blanc and 38% Roussanne, fermented in stainless steel then anaerobically aged on the lees in glass carboys. And get this: the lees were "stirred" by magnets. Another fun science project from Randall Grahm. (86 points) 

2013 Bonny Doon Vineyard Vin Gris de Cigare - California
Pale grapefruit peel color. Bright and sea shell-driven on the nose, with McIntosh apple and sweet tarts. On the palate, this is creamy and fresh with lemon peel, grapefruit, watermelon rind, some clover and honey notes. I get some green melon and roses on the finish. Fun, light, summery wine. 55% Grenache, 23.5% Mourvèdre, 10% Roussanne, 7% Cinsaut, 2.5% Carignane and 2% Grenache Blanc. (86 points) 

2011 Tablas Creek Esprit de Tablas - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Ruby colored. Aromas of bright cherries, red currants, roses, earth and red licorice. On the palate, this shows fine tannins, fresh acid and silky-ripe fruit. Cherries and blackberries galore, with sweet chestnut, red licorice and earth. Braised meat and roses came out with time. Such freshness. Very silky and pure-tasting. 40% Mourvedre, 30% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Counoise. (90 points) 

2012 Bonny Doon Vineyard Syrah Le Pousseur - California, Central Coast
Medium ruby color. I dig the nose: smoke, red plums, rich cherries, charcoal and fig cookies. On the palate, this Syrah is fresh and tart with firm tannins. Plums and cherries mix with smoke, sweet lavender, black olive and dusty earth. Tangy-tart finish. I like the freshness. (88 points) 

2011 Cornerstone Cellars Syrah Stepping Stone - California, Napa Valley
Dark ruby color. Black currants, plums, some smoke, cracked pepper, steak sauce, really deep and complex. Actually showing a lot of freshness on the palate. Full and plummy with currants, black olives, cedar and loamy soil. Earthy, silky, deep and lasting. Loving this wine. (91 points) 

If you’re interested in notes and reports from the actual event in San Francisco, I suggest checking out Hawk Wakawaka Wine Reviews’ report, because she kicks ass.

Lastly, the Rhone Rangers are finally coming to the nation’s capital this summer, June 4. I hope to see you there!

Wine Reviews: California Whites - Anything But Chardonnay

I review a lot of California Chardonnays for the daily wine blog Terroirist. But this week I’m focusing on a grab bag of ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) whites. If (for some crazy reason) you eschew Chardonnay, California has so many interesting white wines to offer. These wines are made from all sorts of grapes and in every conceivable style. 

All of these wines were received as trade samples and tasted blind.

2012 Conundrum Wines White Table Wine - California
SRP: $20
I recently walked through a flower warehouse, and this wine smells like everything in there. Some of these intense floral notes are a bit pungent, and there’s this lychee and white peach stuff as well. On the palate, this is rich and ripe, all sorts of melon, grapefruit, yellow apple. I get this other honey, orange marmalade, lychee nut and lavender stuff going on. The acid is a bit low for my tastes, and there’s sweetness to the perfume. I’ve liked and disliked previous vintages of this wine, but the 2012 seems to show some balance. What grapes are in here? I don’t know. That’s their whole shtick. Sure tastes like Sauvignon Blanc, Muscat, Riesling and possibly Gewurz. (87 points)

2012 Smith Madrone Riesling - California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District

SRP: $27
A very light yellow color. Aromas of grapefruit, white flowers, some apricot and a distinct crushed limestone note. The acid tingles the palate as the apricot, creamy peach and green melon roll in. There’s an awesome lime juice and rock quarry aspect that reminds me of the Mosel, which I’m not sure I’ve ever said about a Napa Riesling. Very crisp and lively, this likely has some fun evolution ahead of it. (90 points)

2012 Fess Parker Riesling Santa Barbara County - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $18
Smells rich, like orange marmalade, white peach and some of those circus peanut candies. Creamy texture, a bit low on the acid for my Riesling tastes. Lots of lychee, also some honey, perfume and a pungent wildflower note. A bit simple, lacking precision, but tasty. (85 points)

2012 Magnolia Court Sauvignon Blanc - California, Central Coast
SRP: $15
A green-tinged yellow color. Bright nose of lemon-lime, some grapefruit, mango, sea salt. Medium+ bodied, richly-textured with green and yellow apple fruit, nutty, but a sense of vibrancy from the acid. I get a salted nut and apricot note, some honey. Impressive for the price. Includes 19% Chenin Blanc. (88 points)

2012 Star Lane Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Estate Grown - California, Central Coast, Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara
SRP: $22
Medium straw-yellow color. A burst of grapefruit and white peach on the nose, underlined by some sage and green onion. Crisp acid but a lot of creaminess to the mouthfeel. Richly textured, with honey and almond notes accenting the yellow apple, pineapple and pear fruit. A slight herbal tone, but it takes a back seat to the creamy, honeyed fruit. Some tart green apple peel and mineral components on the finish. Creamier, less green in style, I’m digging this Sauvignon Blanc. Fermented and aged in 90% stainless steel and 10% French oak. (88 points)

2011 Alta Maria Sauvignon Blanc - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $18
Aromas of honeysuckle, lemon-lime, a hint of green herbs and white pepper. Medium-bodied, lots of acid keeps this thing tart and lively. Grapefruit, lots of tangerine, the fruit is backed up by notes of sea salt and fresh green herbs and peppers. Tangy, focused, with some significant complexity. I’m impressed, especially considering the price. 100% stainless steel, no maloactic fermentation. (90 points)

2012 Grgich Hills Fumé Blanc Dry Sauvignon Blanc - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $30
On the nose: classic Sauvignon aromas of green grass, snap peas, white peach, honeysuckle, green apple. Medium-bodied, medium+ acid provides some tang. Green apple, grapefruit, orange pith, backed up by green pea and herbs, slightly less intense than I was assuming from the nose. Some wildflower, nutty and almond notes on the finish. Tasty stuff, but quite intense and herbal. (88 points)

2012 Kelly Fleming Wines Sauvignon Blanc - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $36
Clear, light yellow color. Aromas of orange blossom, white peach, honeysuckle, some pineapple. Medium+ body, medium acid, there’s a waxy-creamy aura to this wine. A lot of nice peach and pear fruit, glazed with a mix of honey and almond. Rich and forward, but I like the tang and the floral, herbal and mineral notes on the finish. Impressive depth. Made from primarily the Musque clone, this wine sees a combination of French oak and stainless steel. (90 points)

2012 Hanna Sauvignon Blanc - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $16
Clear straw color. So much guava on the nose, it just bursts from the glass, and there’s also some hay and grass. On the palate, tangy acid on a medium-bodied frame. Grapefruit flavors dominate, but there’s still that guava nectar and a slight green pepper note. Really tasty stuff that would please many a palate. (87 points)

This post first appeared on the award-winning daily wine blog Terroirist.

Campovida Finds a Sense of Place in Mendocino

Photo courtesy of Campovida.

Campovida isn’t just a winery. It’s a 13-acre organic garden, a community supported agriculture program, a 10-room center for corporate retreats, a meeting space for “meaningful conversations.” Based in the small Mendocino County town of Hopland, the Campovida property once comprised the Fetzer Valley Oaks Food and Wine Center. The Campovida website is full of poetic musings about sustainable living, community, a sense of place. One thing you won’t find is a way to buy the wines. Yep, Campovida is a different kind of outfit.

The folks behind this project are wife-husband duo Anna Beuselinck and Gary Breen. Originally from Oakland, the couple bought the closed facility in 2006 and got to work. They must’ve been quite busy over the last few years.

Despite all the time I’ve spent in Mendocino County, I knew nothing about this project before I opened Campovida’s wines a few weeks ago. The wines (five whites and a rosé) were received as trade samples and I tasted all of them sighted. These wines were made by Sebastian Donoso. Born in Chile, Sebastian studied enology at Fresno State and made wine for Sacina before joining Campovida in 2012. (Click here for a Terroirist interview with Sebastian.)

As I tasted through the wines, I started to second-guess my senses. Was I really picking up all this freshness, acidity and minerality? But after thoroughly swirling and tasting, the wines had won me over. My notes…

2011 Campovida Viognier Riserva - California, North Coast, Mendocino County

SRP: $34

A yellow-gold color in the glass. On the nose, this bright wine explodes with lime and white flowers, green apple and a rocky, mineral aroma like some sort of mountain spring. A full-bodied palate provides weight to the tangy lime and apple fruit. A real sense of richness from the honeycomb and nougat, but it’s balanced by white tea, mineral notes and medium acid. Impressive stuff. (89 points)

2012 Campovida Chardonnay Oppenlander Vineyard - California, North Coast, Mendocino County

SRP: $36

Light yellow color. Perfumed and elegant on the nose, with white flowers, lime, mineral, sea spray, almost Chablis-like in its oceanic approach. The acid rips across the palate. The green apple, lime and tangerine rind fruit is tangy and intense, and the level of minerals in this wine is really awesome. What a brisk, fresh wine that speaks to the terroir of the Mendocino Coast. Singing now, but I’d actually like to set this down for two or three years to see what happens. (90 points)

2012 Campovida Roussanne Bonofiglio Vineyard - California, North Coast, Mendocino County

SRP: $32

Light gold color. Lovely perfumed nose of banana, white peach, circus peanut candy and lavender. Plump on the palate with a waxy mouthfeel, balanced with soft acid. I like the combination of tropical fruit (banana, mango and papaya) with these notes of lanolin and candle wax. Slightly nutty but not fat. Long finish. (88 points)

2012 Campovida Campo di Blanca Riserva - California, North Coast, Mendocino County

SRP: $32

The nose blends brighter tones of lime, orange and flowers with richer honeycomb, melted butter and hazelnut, and the combination is lovely. Rich on the palate but balanced by tangy acid and some fresh minerals. I get lots of pear, bruised apple and honey, and there’s a nutty and waxy feel to this wine, which isn’t overdone. A buttery aspect lingers on the finish, but the acid doesn’t stop. Richer than some of the other whites, but still balanced and delightful. A blend of 67% Marsanne, 22% Viognier and 11% Roussanne.  (91 points)

2012 Campovida Arneis Spirit Ranch Vineyard - California, North Coast, Mendocino County

SRP: $36

Very perfumed on the nose, with all sorts of citrus and flowers. The palate shows lemon, orange and apricot, along with some more tropical notes of pineapple and green melon. The acid shines through all the way, giving the wine an airy feel despite the ripe fruit. A white tea and honey flavor lingers on the finish. A Northern Italian grape has found a good home in Mendocino. (89 points)

Behold, an amazing pink!

2012 Campovida Rosé di Grenache Riserva - California, North Coast, Mendocino County

SRP: $34

A radiant copper-salmon color with the faintest spritz in the glass. Fresh aromas of watermelon, ruby red grapefruit, wildflowers and a subtle herbal note. Crisp acid kicks off the palate. The wild strawberry and white cherry fruit is snappy and fresh rather than ripe and sweet, and the minerals add to this wine’s overall verve. I also get some white pepper and grapefruit rind notes. Pure and delicious, this is one of the best domestic roses I’ve had in a long time. The Grenache comes from Trail’s End Vineyard in the Potter Valley appellation. At 1,000 feet in a relatively cool area, Grenache grapes don’t ripen as quickly, says winemaker Sebastian Denoso, allowing for lower sugar and more focused acid. (91 points)

If you’re in the Bay Area and looking to try Campovida’s wines, you’re in luck. In April, they opened a tasting room in Oakland called the Taste of Place. Located at 95 Linden Street, it’s open from 5-9 on Thursdays and Fridays and 1-6 on Saturdays and Sundays. “Going to Oakland has been a return to our own roots and beginnings of starting our lives as a family,” said Anna Beuselinck, “as well as connecting the urban and rural worlds.”

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.