Searching for America's Greatest Rieslings

“What are we going to do about Riesling?”

Stu Smith, co-founder of the historic Smith-Madrone winery in Napa’s Spring Mountain District, is a lover and producer of Riesling, so it was a serious question. Some friends and I had coordinated a blind tasting of American Rieslings, and it just so happened that Stu was in town. The stars aligned, and we all tasted and discussed American Rieslings.

Since the late 1970s, Stu has been crafting Riesling from his Spring Mountain vineyards, a wine I love for its classic riffs on of Riesling’s greatest elements: freshness, purity of fruit, an intriguing mineral presence.

The idea for this tasting stems from a comment I made on Twitter about Smith-Madrone’s Riesling — I got on my soap box and declared it perhaps the greatest American Riesling. Aaron Menenberg, a Virginia-based wine-lover who recently started a blog called Good Vitis, chimed in. Other producers popped up, and I began to realize how many other American Rieslings could be considered “great.” It wasn’t long before we came up with a plan: gather dozens of high-quality American Rieslings and blind taste them.

Riesling still maintains a reputation among the larger public as an overly sweet, syrupy white wine, and that’s a shame. Wine consumers know not all Chardonnay is oaky and buttery, and we all know Merlot isn’t worthy of Sideways-style disdain. But Riesling still can’t seem to shake its reputation for being too sweet.

Riesling is perhaps the world’s greatest white wine grape. (I like to argue that Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc challenge it for supremacy, but this is a purely academic exercise.) Riesling is incredible.

Stu Smith, the Spring Mountain master, right, and the tasting panel. 

But, like many great wine grapes, there is a lot of mediocre stuff. If you pick up a random Riesling at your local grocery store, the “Riesling is too sweet” critique would almost certainly be accurate. Stu mentioned a Chateau Ste. Michelle Riesling he’d just purchased for $8. It was decent, he said, but admitted it was “too sweet.” I know the wine well (it comes from the world’s largest contiguous Riesling vineyards in Washington State), and it is indeed “too sweet.”

Nothing compares to the greatness of Rieslings from the best vineyards in Germany and Austria, but there are so many incredible Rieslings produced here in the U.S. The across the board quality was very high, with a few exceptional standouts. The wines were all over the dryness spectrum, from nearly bone dry to rich and honeyed with residual sugar. However, there were only perhaps one or two I would call "too sweet." In the vast majority of these wines, the sugar is balanced with Riesling’s innately crisp acidity.

Aaron and I gathered a few dozen Rieslings from producers we thought would deliver, and blind-tasted them (along with a few ringers from other countries). I fully admit some of America’s greatest Rieslings didn’t make it on this list: Stony Hill, Tatomer, countless others from Oregon, Washington, New York, Michigan, and on and on. I'm sure many people have dozens of suggestions of wines that should be on this list, and I'd likely agree with you on all of them. There are simply too many to taste through on a Sunday afternoon, and we're only mortals, so we tasted 37 different wines. Spoiler: the Smith-Madrone did show wonderfully (it was one of the tasting panel’s highest rated wines), and Stu seemed rightly stoked about that. I will admit, I found a few other wines I liked even more. Blind tasting is always full of surprises.

I didn’t track down all the pricing information, but check out www.wine-searcher.com if you’re interested in finding some of these wines. I’ve rearranged my notes from the order in which they were tasted in order to group them by state.

California

2015 Chateau Montelena Riesling- California, North Coast, Potter Valley
Nose of lemon oil, white peach, honey, straw. Zesty, clean and brisk on the palate with plump texture but the wine is balanced nicely. Limes, peach and orange marmalade laced with minerals and chalk dust. Lovely. (90 points)

2014 Smith-Madrone Riesling- California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
Aromas of lime, banana, yellow flowers, apricot, peach. So vibrant on the palate with racy acidity but plenty of texture and packed with fruit (peach, orange, apricot, lime) with lots of quinine, minerals, mountain stream and honeycomb. Complex and delicious, so suave. (91 points)

2015 Galerie Riesling Terracea- California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
Limes, peaches, baby’s breath on the nose. Zesty and crisp on the palate with peach nectar, white flowers, honey. Notes of almond and sea salt. Very pleasant, but having had the 2014 before and loved it, I was expecting just a bit more. (88 points)

New York

2015 Anthony Road Riesling Dry- New York, Finger Lakes
Smells like limes, yellow apples, oranges, chalky, a classic nose. Brisk and lip-smacking with lemon/lime, yellow plums, juicy fruit but such focus. Fresh minerals and chalk notes linger on the finish. 11.7% alcohol, 0.7% residual sugar. (88 points)

2015 Anthony Road Riesling Semi-Dry- New York, Finger Lakes

Aromas of saline, minerals and orange peel. Bold but zesty on the palate with yellow plums, spiced apple, notes of honey, ginger and almond. Packed with flavor, sweetness is evident but balanced nicely. 11.7% alcohol, 1.7% residual sugar. (88 points)

2015 Red Newt Cellars Riesling The Knoll Lahoma Vineyards - New York, Finger Lakes
Nose of limes, white flowers, nettle, peach nectar – great diversity of aromas. Zesty acid but a plump frame with peach nectar, honey, graham cracker. Tropical deliciousness but balanced, a lot going on in this wine. 13.2% alcohol, about 0.4% residual sugar. (88 points)

2013 Red Newt Cellars Riesling Tango Oaks- New York, Finger Lakes, Seneca Lake
Nose of lemons, oranges, honey and white flowers. A bit thin but shows pleasant oranges, peach and honey tones. 10.6% alcohol, 0.5% residual sugar. (85 points)

2014 Red Newt Cellars Riesling The Big H Lahoma Vineyards- New York, Finger Lakes, Seneca Lake
Nose shows kumquat, lime, perfume, honeysuckle. Creamy and rich but shows nice acidity. Sugar is evident, like the last sip of a cup of honeyed white tea, a nectary wine but delicious. 10.5% alcohol, 1.9% residual sugar. (87 points)

2014 Tierce Riesling Dry- New York, Finger Lakes
Pretty aromas of apricots, lemon curd, chalk, oil and almonds. Crisp and refreshing and bright with lots of mineral and quinine notes. Orange peels, lemon curd, minerals, bracing and zesty but packed with flavor. Very impressive. A collaboration between three winemakers (Peter Becraft of Anthony Road Wine Company, Kelby Russell of Red Newt Cellars and Peter Bell of Fox Run Vineyards) and three vineyards. (90 points)

2012 Fox Run Vineyards Riesling Lake Dana Vineyard- New York, Finger Lakes
Nose of honey, apricot, bruised apple and cinnamon. Alsatian richness in style with lots of honey, orange marmalade, some tennis ball, yellow flower and roasted peanut notes. Bold and delicious but shows impressive balance. (88 points)

2014 Fox Run Vineyards Riesling Dry- New York, Finger Lakes
Aromas of sea salt, lime zest, yellow flowers, peaches. Fresh and bright and crisp with delightfully tingly acidity. Juicy peach and orange drizzled with lime and topped in sea salt, crust minerals and chalk dust. Love this stuff. 11.6% with less than 1% residual sugar. (90 points)

2014 Fox Run Vineyards Riesling Lot 11 Hanging Delta Vineyard- New York, Finger Lakes, Seneca Lake
Aromas of yellow apple, lemon, pineapple. Juicy, rich, sweet, tropical, honey-infused with graham cracker and oil notes, but it maintains freshness in spite of the richness. (87 points)

2014 Boundary Breaks Vineyard Riesling Dry No. 239- New York, Finger Lakes
Bright aromatic display of chalk, lime zest and lemon curd. Crisp and zesty with a salty, oceanic aesthetic. Limes, peach, chalk dust, pure and vibrant with a long, nervy finish. 11.6% alcohol, 0.9% residual sugar. (89 points)

2014 Boundary Breaks Vineyard Riesling No. 198 Reserve- New York, Finger Lakes
Nose of lime, lemon, floral perfume, lots of honey and deep floral tones. Precise on the palate, bold but balanced with vibrant acidity. Lemon/lime, pineapple, apricot, spiced apple. Balanced, rich, pure, delicious. 9% alcohol, about 7% residual sugar. (90 points)

2014 Hermann J. Wiemer Riesling Magdalena Vineyard- New York, Finger Lakes
Nose of rich guava and pineapple and some chalk dusty. Sugar cane and sea salt mix nicely on the palate, rich but pretty, with lots of peach and guava nectar as well as cantaloupe and honey. 12.5% alcohol, 0.8% residual sugar. (88 points)

2014 Hermann J. Wiemer Riesling Dry HJW Vineyard- New York, Finger Lakes
Nose shows lemon/lime, pineapple, oranges. Juicy and nectary but quite balanced with vibrant acidity. Guava, orange and apricot laced with honey and ginger. From a vineyard planted in 1977 on a plateau above Seneca Lake. (88 points)

Oregon

2015 Penner-Ash Riesling- Oregon, Willamette Valley
Deep nectar on the nose with honey and Teddy Graham cookies. Bold, plump texture but vibrant acidity. Honey, graham crackers and orange marmalade, lots of flavor but it’s tied together well. (88 points)

2015 Penner-Ash Riesling Old Vine Riesling Hyland Vineyard- Oregon, Willamette Valley, McMinnville
Aromas of lemon zest, lime peel, saline, tart apple. Fresh and lively with crisp acidity, lemon and cucumber water notes, some earthy spice notes as well. Refreshing and clean. (88 points)

2015 Chehalem Riesling Three Vineyard- Oregon, Willamette Valley
Nose shows lemons and limes with honeysuckle and chalk dust. Juicy palate, bold texture with honey, nuts, rich pineapple and peach but maintains crispness and vibrancy. Long finish with spiced apple notes. (87 points)

2014 Chehalem Riesling Wind Ridge- Oregon, Willamette Valley, Ribbon Ridge
Nose shows lemons, limes, Granny Smith apple and chalk dust. Focused, off-dry, rich texture but crisp acidity. Oranges and apricot laced with quinine and minerals. Bold stuff but a lot of fun. 12.6% alcohol, 1.2% residual sugar. (88 points)

2014 Chehalem Riesling Corral Creek- Oregon, Willamette Valley, Chehalem Mountains
Bright and floral aromas with baby’s breath and oranges and peaches. Zesty acid, pure and mineral-laden, juicy fruit but vibrant. Peaches and guava mixed with honey and nougat and hints of herbal spice. Lingering finish of mineral water and mountain streams. 12.5% alcohol, 1% residual sugar. (89 points)

2016 Trisaetum Riesling Wichmann Dundee Estate- Oregon, Willamette Valley, Dundee Hills
Rich aromas of honey, guava, canned peaches, clean laundry. Plump, rich and honeyed with guava and pineapple and whipped honey. Round and rich and sweet style, lacks a bit of verve but solid flavors. (85 points)

2016 Trisaetum Riesling Dry Wichmann Dundee Estate- Oregon, Willamette Valley, Dundee Hills
A spicy kick on the nose with lots of lemons, melon rind and oils. Bold texture but crisp and very bright, I liked this a lot better than the sweet version. Quinine, chalk dust, minerals, honey, ginger, all on top of bright citrus fruit. Beautiful. (90 points)

2016 Trisaetum Riesling Dry Coast Range Estate- Oregon, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton
This wine blew me away, and I had to revisit it several times just to check my stoke factor, but I still loved it. So much depth on the nose: oranges, peaches, tons of floral complexity, lemongrass. Rich texture on the palate but so bright and refreshing. Honeycomb, quinine, jasmine, floral spice, guava nectar, peach juice – incredible complexity. I was convinced this was an Austrian ringer. Wow. (94 points)

2016 Trisaetum Riesling Ribbon Ridge Estate- Oregon, Willamette Valley, Ribbon Ridge
Lots of depth on the nose with floral spice and cardamom. Bold texture, velvety, sugar cane, pineapple, baked apple, spiced tea. Like southern sweet tea in deliciousness, but not the freshest wine. (87 points)

Washington

2015 Charles & Charles Riesling Art Den Hoed Vineyard- Washington, Columbia Valley
Aromas of yellow apples, honey, lime, spiced tea. Creamy, waxy texture but bright acidity. Very pleasant yellow apple and lime fruit with a crusty mineral finish. 12% alcohol, 1.4% residual sugar. (88 points)

2015 Sleight of Hand The Magician Evergreen Vineyard- Washington, Columbia Valley
Very sea-infused nose with lots of tropical fruit (guava, pineapple). Plump but quite dry with juicy oranges and pineapple, some baked apple and honey. Rich style and packed flavors but stays fresh. (87 points)

2014 Lauren Ashton Cellars Riesling- Washington, Columbia Valley
Aromas of honey, orange, peach and guava nectar. Rich and honeyed on the palate with plump, waxy fruit (peaches, apricot, guava), with hints of nuts and smoke. Chunky style but tasty. (85 points)

2015 Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen Riesling Eroica- Washington, Columbia Valley
On the nose, peaches, crushed sweet tarts and sea salt. Rich texture, sweetness balanced nicely with fresh acidity but this shows hedonistic notes too (honey, baked apple, spiced white tea). Lots going on. 12% alcohol, 1.2% residual sugar. (89 points)

2011 Rasa Vineyards Riesling The Lyricist- Washington, Columbia Valley
Nose of sweet oranges, yellow plums, honey and new tennis balls. Zesty and precise but also creamy and honeyed. Peaches, lime juice, laced with so many minerals. Complex, brisk, absolutely delicious, the depth and balance are so impressive. (92 points)

2013 Rasa Vineyards Riesling The Composer- Washington, Columbia Valley
New tennis ball smell on the nose, but also lots of honeysuckle, summer peaches, drizzled with lime. Bright and floral palate with mountain stream freshness and minerality. Oranges, limeade, honey, graham cracker. The complexity is absurd, but the balance is fantastic. Long, lingering, mineral-encrusted finish. Very impressive. (92 points)

2016 Nine Hats Riesling- Washington, Columbia Valley
Sweet flowers on the nose with orange blossom and sea salt. Bold honey and graham cracker on the palate but medium acidity keeps it fresh. Tastes like banana peel and crushed Sweet Tarts, but in the best way. For a $13 Riesling, this is really solid. 13.4% alcohol, 1.3% residual sugar. (87 points)

2015 Long Shadows Wineries Riesling Poet's Leap- Washington, Columbia Valley
Never have I smelled a wine that smells more like banana Runts candy than this wine. Also some guava and honey. On the palate, this is fresh with lots of Sweet Tarts and, again, banana-flavored Runts candies. Floral, lots of spice, but so much sweet/tart candy notes. Fun, but not what I was expecting from this wine. I actually like the lesser “Nine Hats” wine just as much, but this was fun. 12.9% alcohol, 1.2% residual sugar. (87 points)

P.S.

One bottle of Gainey Riesling did not show properly at this tasting, but the other (notes below) showed beautifully. I accidentally left the Blakeslee Riesling at home the day of the tasting. But both of these producers sent wines for this tasting, so I wanted to include them. These were tasted sighted the next day.

2014 Blakeslee Vineyard Estate Riesling- Oregon, Willamette Valley, Eola - Amity Hills
Nose of peaches and papaya, lime, tennis balls, floral perfume. On the palate, this is pretty, vibrant and precise with light sweetness and crisp acid. White peaches, apricots, drizzled with limes, lots of floral tones, sea breeze, chalky minerals, just a touch of honey. Pretty, balanced, delish. (89 points)

2015 Gainey Riesling Limited Selection- California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
Rich yellow color. Aromas of peach nectar, lime juice, also some lilies and honeysuckle with crushed sea shells. Bold texture on the palate but vibrant acidity, it tingles the palate, residual sugar balanced nicely. Pineapple and limes with honeycomb and an underlying sense of dusty minerals and pleasant salinity. Very curious how this would age. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Three Moderately Priced Bottles from Columbia Valley

As I detailed in a September 2015 report, Columbia Valley is a huge area with multiple sub-appellations. And winemakers throughout this region are sourcing large amounts of quality grapes to use for moderately priced but interesting wines.  Long Shadows, a side project of Washington powerhouse producer Chateau Ste. Michelle, produces a wide array of classic Columbia Valley wines. The high-end bottles are quite good, and pricey, but they also produce a more accessible range of wines called Nine Hats.  

Inconceivable is a label that sources wines from all over, Columbia Valley to California's Central Coast, even an interesting Sicilian red blend. 

These three wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted. 

2014 Long Shadows Wineries Riesling Nine Hats - Washington, Columbia Valley

SRP: $12
Light gold color. Boisterous aromas of white peaches, kiwi, lime juice, mixed in with some sweet yellow flowers and honey. Crisp acid and a bright personality on the palate. Juicy green apples and green melons with lime drizzled on top. The fruit is topped with what tastes like a dead ringer for crushed Sweet-Tart candies, these sweet chalky notes but they’re so tart and tangy. Orange peel and clover honey notes linger onto the finish. Crunchy, tart, so food friendly but easy to sip on its own. (87 points)

2013 Long Shadows Wineries Nine Hats - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $20
Light purple color. Smells like all sorts of jam (blueberry, blackberry, raspberry) some sweet vanilla, milk chocolate and roasted coffee. Full-bodied and rich presence on the palate, medium tannins and medium acid. Lots of dark fruit jams, mixed with vanilla cookies, coffee, cedar, some black tea and black licorice. The alcohol shows through a bit (14.9%), but it’s a fun, big, chewy red blend. 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Syrah, 22% Merlot and 5% Sangiovese. (86 points) 

2013 Inconceivable Wines Cabernet Sauvignon - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $25
Light purple color. Nose of black currants, tart blackberries, mocha, cedar and violets. Medium-plus bodied with some moderate acid and lightly structured tannins. Framed by tart black fruit, accented with vanilla, mocha, some mint and tobacco notes. Smooth, silky, ready to go but not lightweight. 88% Cabernet with dashes of Merlot, Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre and Cinsault, aged 22 months in half-new French and American oak. (87 points)

Columbia Valley: Options at All Price Points

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Columbia Valley is a huge area with multiple sub-appellations, home to a diverse array of grape varieties and wine styles.

I recently tasted through a few Columbia Valley whites and reds, and found some really nice bottles. Like any region, there are those larger-production blends that offer some fun flavors but leave the palate and mind wanting more. But I also came across a few higher-end wines that are quite exciting. It’s hard to generalize about an entire region, but I think these wines represent a good cross-section of what’s available from Columbia Valley.

2014 Buried Cane Chardonnay – Washington, Columbia Valley

SRP: $14

Dark straw color. Peaches and papayas on the nose, some white flowers and honeyed tea, a sweeter, perfumed aspect. Medium-low acid. Chunky pineapple fruit on the palate (papaya, pineapple and mango), with notes of honey, white tea, nougat, sweet white flowers and honeysuckle. Tasty, attractive, fun, not ultimately deep or complex but very good stuff for the price. Aged six months in 20% new French oak, includes 11% Semillon. (85 points)

2014 Nine Hats Cellars Pinot Gris The Benches - Washington, Columbia Valley

SRP: $12

Light gold color. Nose of peaches, white flowers, lime peels. Creamy body, moderate acid, lemon-lime, white peaches, lots of floral kick and laundry freshener. Waxy, a hint of raw almond and nettle. Clean, refreshing, bright yet full of fruit and flowers. (86 points)

2014 Long Shadows Wineries Riesling Poet's Leap - Washington, Columbia Valley

SRP: $20

Pale lemon color. Bright but complex aromatics, like limes, white peach and papaya topped with sea breeze, white flowers and clean laundry. A zesty and brisk wine but such pleasant richness, creaminess and sweetness as well. Peaches, apricot, papaya, drizzled with lime, I like the potpourri, straw, crushed chalk, ocean spray and ginger notes. Complex but stays zesty and downright fun. Delicious now, but perhaps it could do some cool stuff in the cellar. 89 points

2014 Dolan & Weiss Pinot Grigio Julia's Dazzle Rosé Benches Vineyard - Washington, Columbia Valley, Horse Heaven Hills

SRP: $16

White cherry and watermelon colored. Smells of roses and dandelions, white peaches, lime zest. Crisp and clean on the palate but a creamy, waxy feel. Tart white cherries, orange peels, ruby red grapefruit mixed with honeycomb, lesser amounts of pepper, roses, dandelions and chalk. Good balance, tangy stuff, very pleasant and creamy too. The label had me thinking this was a gimmick wine, but it’s really solid juice. (87 points)

2012 Mullan Road Cellars Red Wine Blend - Washington, Columbia Valley 

SRP: $50

Medium purple color. A sweet spice kick (clove, cinnamon?), along with rich but tart fruit (black and red currants, blackberries), backed up by notes of coffee, coconut and cracked pepper. Forward and ripe on the palate with moderate tannins, some tang from the acid. The black cherry, raspberries and blackberries and juicy, ripe, flowing and velvety. Root beer, cola, vanilla and clove add complexity. Juicy, ripe and open, yet so very pretty. Smooth and refined, despite the structure. Hints of baking spices, toasted oak and malt balls. Some interesting complexity to unravel in the cellar, but showing well now. A Dennis Cakebread project, this blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot and 13% Cabernet Franc shows a whole lot to love. (91 points)

2012 Cadaretta Windthrow - Washington, Columbia Valley

SRP: $50

Vibrant purple color. Bold aromas of the juiciest raspberries and blackberries, some caramel, dried rose petals, vanilla, cedar. Full bodied, a velvety feel to the tannins, moderate acid. The fruit is concentrated and rich, with juicy blackberries and black cherries, add in vanilla, toasted nuts, sweet floral notes, hints of black pepper glaze. I get some dusty-loamy aspects, sweet coffee. Velvety and rich, approachable but it could benefit from two years or more. 56% Syrah, 25% Grenache and 19% Mourvedre, aged 17 months in 1/3 new French oak. (88 points)

2011 Buried Cane Heartwood Red - Washington, Columbia Valley

SRP: $25

Medium purple color. Tight upon opening, needs swirling and time to show the black cherry, raspberry and dark plum fruit, along with hints of white pepper and tobacco. Medium-to-full-bodied with some velvety tannins and moderate-to-low acid. Lots of black cherries, dark plums and blueberries underlined by mocha, violets, some caramel and roasted red pepper notes. Opens to show barbecue sauce and coffee grounds flavors. A bit compact though and could use air or a decant. A wide-ranging Rhone blend of 54% Syrah, 15% Cinsault, 14% Mourvedre, 7% Grenache, 6% Counoise and 4% Viognier. (88 points)

  

2013 Columbia Winery Chardonnay - Washington, Columbia Valley

SRP: $14

Light gold color. Smells like oranges, yellow apples, honeybutter, some floral white tea notes as well. Creamy body, medium weight, medium acid. Rich yellow apples, papaya, drizzled with honeycomb and hazelnut. Some circus peanut candies and caramel apple. Fun stuff, not really complicated, but tasty. (84 points)

N.V. Columbia Winery Red - Washington, Columbia Valley

SRP: $14

Bright ruby color. Aromas of fig cookies, raspberry jam, mocha. Medium-light bodied, low tannin and low acid. Red apple peel and raspberry jam blend with toast, vanilla and caramel flavors. Tastes manufactured, the toasted oak is a bit much, overwhelms the sweet red fruit. (78 points)

2013 Columbia Winery Cabernet Sauvignon - Washington, Columbia Valley 

SRP: $16

Medium ruby color. Smells of currant jam, roses, sweet vanilla and coffee. On the palate, light tannins, medium acid, tart cranberries, roasted plums and black currants mix with sweeter cherry jam, toasted oak, mocha and sweet vanilla. A fun, fruit-forward wine with easy drinking appeal for the near-term. (79 points)

2013 Columbia Winery Merlot - Washington, Columbia Valley

SRP: $16

Light purple color. Smells like raspberry cheesecake topping, black cherry soda, vanilla and coconut. Light tannins, low acid, a candied, chewy feel to the palate. The black cherry and plum fruit tastes sweet and slightly cooked, mixed in with vanilla, caramel and espresso. Simple, sweet, syrupy, lacks a signature of place. (78 points)

Wine Reviews: Washington State

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

When it comes to pure deliciousness and joy in a wine-drinking experience, Washington State wines always deliver for me. 

Every time I think I have a grasp of the wines and their producers, I discover a new winemaker that wows me and keeps me wanting to learn more. 

There are also plenty of value-driven bottles available, although some of these, like bulk regional blends from anywhere, can lack excitement. 

Still, dollar for dollar, the quality of Washington State continues to impress.

This batch was received as trade samples and tasted blind.

2012 Columbia Winery Chardonnay - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $14
Richer nose, orange marmalade, creamy pears and honey, some floral, perfume. Plump on the palate, chunky pineapple and pears, drizzled with honey and topped with diced nuts. Bold, ripe, creamy, but some moderate acid keeps it in check. The nutty, chamomile, honey and baked bread elements show some moderate complexity. Includes some Semillon and Chenin Blanc. (85 points)

2013 Columbia Winery Chardonnay - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $14
Rich nose of oranges, baked pear, papaya, some honey and floral notes. Juicy and rich on the palate but acid keeps it balanced. Nutty and honeyed notes accent the pear, yellow apple and apricot fruit. I get a lot of crushed nuts, honeyed tea and toast elements. A creamy and bold Chardonnay with exposed oak, but still quite tasty. Includes 5% Pinot Gris and 3% “other white” grapes. (84 points)

2012 Kennedy Shah (Woodhouse Wine Estates) Riesling Reserve DuBrul Vineyard - Washington, Columbia Valley, Yakima Valley
SRP: $25
Medium gold color. Beautiful and complex nose of white peach, orange marmalade, kiwi, all drizzled with honey and some dusty soil. On the palate this wine is bright and clean, packing lots of fruit into a nervy, wiry frame. The slight sugary sweetness is matched perfectly with the brisk acid. I get lime, white peach, kiwi and papaya, throw in some honey and a whole lot of sea salt, shells and minerals. A hint of hazelnut lingering long into the finish. Complex and intriguing, but so refreshing and satisfying at the same time. (90 points) 

2010 Long Shadows Wineries Chester-Kidder - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $50
Dark purple color. Deep and dark on the nose with currants, fig paste, roasted plums mixing with notes of charcoal, mocha, vanilla, some spicy, bourbon cask elements. Firm tannins on the palate, this is a bold and concentrated wine but the acid helps it out a lot. Deep currants and black cherries blend with some black olive and spiced black tea notes. Long and full, with notes of coffee and coconut on the finish. Delicious, but it could use two or three years to unwind. 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Syrah and 5% Petit Verdot. (91 points)

2010 Daríghe (Woodhouse Wine Estates) Proprietor's Blend - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $65
Dark ruby-light purple color. Lovely blueberry and tart cranberries on the nose, lots of flowers, loamy soil, rich vanilla, clove, tobacco, but so much brightness to the aromatic profile as well. Tart acid, grippy tannins, full of structure but balanced and easy to drink at the same time. Blueberry fruit, blackberries and black cherries galore, complex and interesting notes of smoke and mocha notes, vanilla and milk chocolate, but also lots of flowers and loamy elements. The acid keeps it clean and fresh. Beautiful notes of spiced tea and incense sticks, like a spice rack collapsed onto the fruit. But it’s lovely and fresh and long-lasting. Complex, thought-provoking, but perhaps most importantly, downright delicious. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Cabernet Franc, 12% Merlot, 7% Malbec and 3% Petite Verdot, aged 24 months in 75% new French oak. (92 points)

2010 Dussek Family Cellars (Woodhouse Wine Estates) Cabernet Sauvignon - Washington, Columbia Valley, Rattlesnake Hills
SRP: $36
A dark ruby colored in the glass. Lovely nose: Rich blue fruit mixes with tart red berries, and it’s all dusted with incense sticks, lavender, rose potpourri and a deep sense of earthy complexity. Silky and elegant on the palate, sure the tannins have lots of structure but the acid is tart and the fruit is cool, creamy and so smooth. Blueberries and red berries again, but also lots of loamy soil, tobacco leaf, cocoa powder and cinnamon notes. Long and complex, you could decant this and pick out nuances all night long, or just cellar it for five. But a beauty young. Swoon. 13.8% alcohol, aged 18 months in 50% new French oak, includes 8% Cabernet Franc. (92 points)

2011 Long Shadows Wineries Saggi - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $50
Notes of sweet blackberries and currant jam mix with charcoal, dark coffee, caramel and some sweet cedar. Full on the palate, dark but tart as well with crispness from the acid and fine but structured tannins. Cranberries and red currants, some blackberries as well, add to that some graphite, pencil shavings, red pepper jelly, anise and tobacco. Big but tart, well-structured and complex, this could develop quite a bit in the cellar. 43% Sangiovese, 42% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Syrah. (91 points)

2011 Long Shadows Wineries Syrah Sequel - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $45
Dark purple color. Smokey and bold on the nose with black currants, black cherries and blueberries, all of it dark and deep, with a bit of beef jerky and charcoal thrown in as well. Solid tannic backbone, tamed by medium acid, the wine shows some chewy aspects but it’s also quite smooth (if that makes any sense). Black currant and blueberry fruit is juicy and rich and mixed in with an interesting combination of cedar, pencil shavings, teriyaki sauce and beef jerky. Bold but showing some restraint, a good decant and this could be enjoyed now, but I’d love to cellar it for three or four years to see what those meaty, earthy tones do. Aussie icon John Duval nails it with this Columbia Valley Syrah. (92 points) 
 
2012 Columbia Winery Cabernet Sauvignon - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $15
Bright ruby color. Smells of blackberries and blueberries, scorched earth, roasted coffee and some notes of sweet red licorice. Fresh acid and medium-strength tannins back up the blackberry and plum fruit. Notes of charcoal smoke, mocha and sweet tobacco round the wine out, and I also get some cedar shavings, chocolate chips and vanilla elements. Medium finish with notes of vanilla and toasted oak. Includes 11% Syrah, 10% Malbec and 3% Merlot. (85 points)

2012 Columbia Winery Merlot - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $14
Juicy purple color. Currants and tart blueberries on the nose with some earthy accents. Chewy on the palate with smooth tannins and a blueberry and candied cherry blend of flavors. Notes of mocha and earth. Simple, fun, a bit astringent on the finish. Includes 10% Syrah, and dashes of Cab and other varieties. (83 points)

N.V. Columbia Winery Red Blend - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $12
Smells of raspberry gummy candy, cola and smoke. Juicy, tangy and tart on the palate with darker berry fruit (plums and blackberries). I also get some roses and a hint of tobacco. Light tannins, medium acid, I need more complexity and personality from this wine though. Still, for $12, it’s not bad. A blend of Cabernet, Syrah and Merlot. (81 points)

Long Shadows: Winemakers of the World Unite Around Washington State Wine

Allen Shoup knows a thing or two about Washington State wine. The man behind the dramatic rise of Chateau Ste. Michelle and its affiliated wineries, Shoup has been perhaps the greatest evangelist for the wines of Washington’s Columbia Valley.

In 2002, Shoup assembled a super group of winemakers from all around the world to create a diverse portfolio of Washington State wines. He called the project Long Shadows Wineries. Using fruit from all over the Columbia Valley, Long Shadows produces a “Poet’s Leap” Riesling with Nahe winemaker Armin Diel, a “Feather” Cabernet with Napa Cab god Randy Dunn, a Super Tuscan style blend with Ambrogio and Giovanni Folonari, just to name a few.

The wines in this report were received as samples. The bottles were mixed in with other Pacific Northwest wines, and I tasted and scored them blind.


Arman Diel in The Benches vineyard above the Columbia River. (From Long Shadows)

2012 Long Shadows Wineries Riesling “Poet’s Leap” - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $20
Honeysuckle and cherry blossom aromas explode from the glass, followed by green melon and papaya. Yet there’s a salted lime aspect to the nose as well, and the wine got more and more expressive as it warmed up. On the palate, juicy green melon, white peach and banana flavors are balanced by tart acid and focused mineral notes. This tastes only slightly off-dry, but it’s very well-balanced. Rich, but maintains classic Riesling verve. What a finish: like briny ocean rocks and key limes mixed together. Seems like it could easily improve and develop for two or three years. Made by Armin Diel of Nahe Riesling fame. (90 points)

2008 Long Shadows Wineries “Chester-Kidder” - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $50
Dense aromas, but with air they started coming out to play, showing cherry sauce, wild blueberry, violets and sweet coconut. Silky but incredibly rich, as waves of blueberry, cassis and cocoa powder cover the palate. The secondary flavors of earth, dust, cedar and granite need 5+ years to fully develop. A stunning red blend that’s built for the long haul. 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Syrah, 5% Petit Verdot and 4% Cabernet Franc. Made by the French-born Gilles Nicault. (92 points)

2009 Long Shadows Wineries “Chester-Kidder” - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $50
Dark purple color. Upon popping the cork, the aromas were really tight, but they opened up to show chocolate-covered cherries, sweet plums and cocoa powder. On the palate, this wine boasts a glycerin-like mouthfeel. It’s really dense, with flavors of blackberries and blueberries, fig paste and caramel. Notes of loam and graphite add complexity. With time, this settled down and showed some acid coming through, but let’s be clear: this wine is dense and hedonistic, and it’s incredibly primal right now. The cellar could do wonders for this blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Syrah, 17% Petit Verdot and 5% Cabernet Franc. (89 points)

Tuscany meets Columbia Valley.

2009 Long Shadows Wineries “Pirouette”  - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $50
Aromas of plum sauce, charcoal and prunes. The palate is very jammy, with medium tannins and a raisin and prune-like approach. Notes of red licorice and mocha carry the finish. Quite nice, but not as deep as the Chester Kidder. A blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc and 3% Malbec. Made by Bordeaux native Phillipe Melka. (87 points)

2009 Long Shadows Wineries “Saggi”  - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $45
A purple-ruby color. The currant and red plum fruit smells warm, but not baked, with earthy, cedar and floral notes. Fresh acid and fine tannins. Tangy red currant fruit leads the way, and I get the sensation of biting into a fresh summer plum. Some roasted coffee, cedar and toast, but not overwhelming, and there are also some tobacco and mushroom undertones. Bold, balanced, this will improve in the cellar. A blend of 62% Sangiovese, 29% Cabernet Sauvignon and 9% Syrah. A team effort from Tuscan winemakers Ambrogio and Giovanni Folonari. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.