Holiday Bubbles Round-Up: Champagne, Prosecco & Cava

The holiday season is in full swing — the lights, the commercials and jingles, shopping, all that stuff. And, right on cue, I’ve been receiving a lot of bubbles for review.

Of course, good bubbles (especially Champagne) are good year-round, but popping the cork on a bottle of fizzy wine during the holidays, with family and friends, it really never gets old.

To help with the holiday sparkling wine shopping, I have a nice mix of sparkling wines this week. I recently tasted through some delightful Champagne, to some surprisingly good Proseccos, and some value-driven Cavas. These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

N.V. Palmer & Co Champagne Brut Réserve - France, Champagne
SRP: $60
Rich yellow color. Bold nose of yellow pears, lemon curd, honey, ginger, but also a nice mix of crushed chalk and shells. Bright acidity meets nice creamy texture on the palate, a broad fruit assortment (apple, apricot, lemon). Nice amount of complexity in the form of sea spray, chalk dust, minerals. Biscuit and honey notes woven in well. Gains depth and complexity with air. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and about 15% Pinot Meunier, aged four years on the lees, 8 g/l dosage. (90 points)

N.V. Bruno Paillard Champagne Rosé Brut Première Cuvée - France, Champagne
SRP: $60
Medium copper color. Chalky, biscuit, sea salty nose with lemon, red apple and apricot fruit, a slight, pleasant musky note. Nervy and brisk on the palate but broad texture, with crunchy red apple, juicy raspberry and strawberry, and nuanced notes of spiced tea, chalk. Brisk but toasty, zesty but plenty of fruit – seems like a holiday crowd-pleaser of a rose Champagne for sure. Pinot Noir with some Chardonnay, the blend includes reserve wine dating back to 1985, aged 3 years sur lie. 6 g/l dosage, disgorged July 2018. (91 points)

N.V. Laurent-Perrier Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature - France, Champagne

SRP: $100
Deep gold color. Super bright on the nose, with a chalky, dusty, mineral, saline infusion, along with sea spray, white flowers, lemon curd and tart apricot. On the palate, this is nervy and precise with a lot of focus. It is has a knife’s edge briskness throughout, yet enough depth and creamy texture for balance, and nuanced bready doughy notes. Apricot, lemon curd and lime, topped in minerals, crushed shells, quinine and white flower tones. This is a brand new cuvee from L-P (their first in 30 years), and they’ve managed to pull off a really good Brut Nature, here. Chardonnay sourced from the Côte des Blancs (Avize, Cramant, Oiry, Chouilly) and Montagne de Reims (Tours-sur-Marne, Villers-Marmery, Rilly La Montagne), aged about six years before disgorgement. (92 points)

N.V. Cantina Produttori di Valdobbiadene Prosecco Val D'Oca - Italy, Veneto, Prosecco
SRP: $13
Pal lemon color. Aromas of white peaches, topped in wildflowers, white tea, nettle and sweet tarts. Crisp on the palate, juicy but tart, with white peaches, lemon and kiwi fruit. Notes of wildflowers and herbs. Food-friendly, simple in a good way, a crisper, dryer style that works well. (87 points)

2018 Cantina Produttori di Valdobbiadene Val D'Oca Punto Rosa - Italy, Veneto, Marca Trevigiana IGT
SRP: $13
Pale copper color. Aromas of red apple, cranberry, with some nettle and musky tones. Crisp and light on the palate with bright acidity on a light frame. Punchy red apples, watermelon, strawberries, topped in some chalk and flowers. Pleasant, crowd-pleasing stuff, made from Pinot Nero and Pinot Grigio. (87 points)

2018 Cantina Produttori di Valdobbiadene Val D'Oca Prosecco Millesiamato Extra Dry - Italy, Veneto, Prosecco, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore D.O.C.G.
SRP: $18
Lemon colored. Aromas of quince, lemon and tangerine, along with white tea, crushed sweet tarts, and an interesting musky, spice element. Fleshy texture on the palate but tart acidity. Lime, quince and apricot fruit mixes well with white tea, honey and chalk. There’s some complex floral and spice tones that are quite attractive. (88 points)

2018 Cantina Produttori di Valdobbiadene Val D'Oca Brut Rive di San Pietro di Barbozza - Italy, Veneto, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG
SRP: $33

Pale lemon color. Steely and bright on the nose, with a burst of lemon/lime, kiwi, and an exciting streak of minerals, chalk and dried flowers and herbs. Lovely creamy depth on the palate, but bright acidity keeps it lively and crisp, delightful balance. Ginger, honey, crushed chalk, white flowers, all of this on top of kiwi, lemon and green apple. This is a really impressive Prosecco that surprised me. (90 points)

N.V. Vilarnau Cava Brut Reserva - Spain, Cava
SRP: $15
Medium yellow color. Aromas pop with lemon, lime, honey, some toasted nuts and baguette. Creamy texture on the palate, refreshing acidity, along with lemon crème, yellow apples. Notes of almond, sea salt, freshly baked biscuits. Fun stuff, this delivers a lot for a low price. 50% Macabeo, 35% Parallada, 15% Xarel-lo, 10 g/l residual sugar. (87 points)

N.V. Vilarnau Cava Rosé Delicat Brut Reserva - Spain, Cava
SRP: $16
Deep copper color. Nose of bright strawberries, cranberry, red apple, along with rose petals, some bread dough and peanut notes. On the palate, fresh acid pervades, but there’s good breadth of texture, and a nice mix of juicy strawberry fruit with crunchy red apples. Elements of sea salt, toasted nuts, baguette, and a spice floral tea note add complexity. This has a lot to show for the price. 85% Garnacha, 15% Pinot Noir, 8 g/l residual sugar. (88 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Wine Reviews: Summer Sippers to Beat the Heat

It’s the middle of summer, so this week I’m highlighting a range of white and rosés, and an amber (or orange) wine to keep things cool.

The pink wave of American obsession with rosé is still going strong, and it seems each year I see more rosé wine than the last year. Especially during summertime, we love to drink pink wine. I’ve received a handful of rosé wines since I covered my first batch a few months ago, and found quite a few goodies.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

White Wines

2017 Trefethen Riesling Dry – USA, California, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll
SRP: $26
Very pale straw color. Aromas burst out of the glass with lemons, limes, chalk dust, cut flower stems, baby’s breath. Crisp and so zesty, dry and bracing but plenty of vibrant fruit (lime, peach, guava). Complex elements of chalk dust, limestone, mountain stream, honeysuckle. Add in some cucumber slices and a hint of tennis ball, with lots of minerals on the finish. A lovely dry California Riesling that I’d love to re-taste in four or five years. Sourced from Main Ranch Vineyard. (91 points)

2017 Chateau Montelena Riesling - USA, California, North Coast, Potter Valley
SRP: $27
Pale lemon color. A rich and plump aromatic display (orange, white peach, pineapple) along with yellow flowers, honeycomb, white tea, a stony-minty element as well. Plump and juicy fruit, this is richer and more tropical than I remember previous vintages, but it’s tropical and delicious (white peaches, cantaloupe, pineapple) with some drizzled lime on there. White flowers, chalky, spritely and fresh with some mineral and nettle notes and a honeyed finish. So surprised, year after year, at this wine. (91 points)

2017 Gamble Family Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Gamble Vineyard – USA, California, Napa Valley, Yountville
SRP: $25
Light yellow color. The nose boasts bright white and yellow flowers, with green apples and yellow pears, a hint of sea salt. Creamy texture on the palate, this is fresh and crisp with a tangy, salty hint. Green apples and pears, lemon curd, the fruit mixes with honeysuckle, chalk dust, mineral and a hint of lemon verbena. Bright but textured, almost velvety, loving the depth and freshness combo here. Fermented mostly in old French oak, with a bit of new, and some stainless steel. (90 points)

2017 Sanctuary Vineyards Albariño Pearl – USA, North Carolina, Outer Banks
SRP: $25
Light yellow color. Aromas of guava, peach, honey and floral tones, with sea salt notes. Rich and peachy with apricots and lemon, this is plumper, richer style but well done, interesting interpretation of this grape. Waxy, honeyed notes to the apricot and peach, but there’s still plenty of flowers and sea salt. Nice effort from North Carolina! (85 points)

Amber and Rosé

2017 Troon Vineyard Riesling Whole Grape Ferment – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $20

Pale gold/amber color. Nose bursts with yellow flowers, honey, candle wax, almond, sea salt, topped on top of bright limes and apricot. Bright and crisp on the palate but the textural richness is awesome, and there are these chalky, dusty elements that I love. Flavors of limes and candied orange peel, mixed with almond, ginger, dried honey, wax. Complex, elegant, deliciousness. 11.6% alcohol, almost bone dry, this is an exciting and delicious orange wine. (92 points)

N.V. Amelia Crémant de Bordeaux Rosé Brut - France, Bordeaux, Crémant de Bordeaux
SRP: $20
Pale copper color. Subtle aromas of white flowers, tangy strawberries and white cherries. Crisp and bright on the palate with high acid and a light, tangy appeal. White cherries, red apple peel flavors. Steely and light, budget and picnic-friendly. Made from Merlot and Cabernet Franc. (85 points)

2017 Tasca D'Almerita Sicilia Le Rose di Regaleali - Italy, Sicily, Sicilia
SRP: $15
Deep copper color. Nose of nectarines, peaches, apricots, lots of blossoms and spiced white tea, a sea salt note. Punchy and juicy but tangy on the palate with crisp, salty, oceanic influences throughout. Juicy nectarines, blood orange, yellow plums, along with notes of roses and spiced tea. This is delicious rose of Nerello Mascalese, and a total steal at this price. (89 points)

2017 Copain Pinot Noir Tous Ensemble Rosé - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County
SRP: $25
Deep copper color. Aromas of roses, lilies, sweet melon, nectarine, with hints of sea spray and chalk dust. Crisp and lip-smacking acidity, so lively, with a nice streak of mineral, chalk and saline throughout. Tart red apple with juicy white peaches and cantaloupe. Tangy, spicy, with floral complexity that lingers on the finish. Delightful Pinot Noir rose. (89 points)

2017 Cambria Pinot Noir Rosé Julia's Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $18
Bright pink color. Nose boasts peaches, spicy wild strawberries, watermelon and some white pepper. Plump, richly-textured, and juicy on the palate with medium acidity. Lots of watermelon, strawberry and red apple fruit. Fruit-forward style with notes of roses, cherry blossoms. All Pinot Noir. (87 points)

2017 Sidebar Cellars Rosé - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $21
Deep copper/light raspberry color. Ripe peaches, juicy strawberries, some spiced cranberry relish, along with white flowers and white pepper note. Bold texture with plenty of fruit (white peaches, mango, strawberry) yet bright acidity. The fruit is so juicy and pretty but I love these white pepper and rhubarb elements as well. Delicious stuff. 100% Syrah. (89 points)

2017 WillaKenzie Estate Rosé - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
SRP: $21
Pale copper color. Super floral on the nose with cut stems, orange blossoms, lilies, nettle, along with peaches galore. Precise acidity from start to finish, dry and tangy, minerality throughout. White cherries, juicy peaches and nectarine topped in rose hips and orange blossoms. Floral, fresh, lovely balance and depth, this is very pretty stuff. Pinot Noir with 3% Pinot Meunier and 2% Pinot Blanc. (90 points)

2017 Veritas Vineyard Rosé - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $20
Medium watermelon color. Aromas of strawberries and white cherries, rose hips and roses, orange blossoms, honeysuckle. Medium-bodied on the palate with a plush and fruity appeal, raspberries and orange blossoms, honeysuckle. Floral and fruity, spicy and herbal, so fresh and lively but it sports significant depth. Lovely Virginia pink from Veritas. (88 points)

<85 points

2017 Concha y Toro Shiraz Rosé Casillero del Diablo - Chile
SRP: $8
Pale copper color. Aromas of strawberries and white cherries, along with roses, nettle, lemon meringue, crushed sweet tart candies. Light and bright with high acid, tart lemon and watermelon rind fruit. Notes of rose hips, rhubarb, sliced cucumber. Light and simple, a blend of Syrah, Cinsault and Carmenere.

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Crémant d'Alsace - Delicious Champagne-Method Bubbles <$25

High quality Champagne-method sparkling wine and value — not always an easy combination to come by. Luckily, Crémant d’Alsace exists.

For less than $25, Crémant d’Alsace provides some of my favorite sparkling wines from France. In Alsace, the producer Lucien Albrecht first began applying the Champagne method process to their own grapes in 1971, and, after lobbying the French authorities for an official designation, the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée Crémant d’Alsace was born in 1976. Now, producers all over Alsace make wines this way from a variety of grapes. I’ve been drinking Crémant d’Alsace since I was legally able to purchase alcohol, because I found a few reliably good producers whose wines were so delicious and affordable.

I’m a Champagne worshipper; nothing will ever rival that. But I can’t always spend the money on Champagne, and sometimes I want something good but inexpensive to share with family and friends. And this is where Alsace wines excel, with high quality and $20-ish price points.

Since my last post on Alsace, I received four Crémants d’Alsace, all of which should retail for $25 or less. These wines were received as samples and tastes sighted. 

N.V. Gustave Lorentz Crémant d'Alsace - France, Alsace, Crémant d'Alsace

SRP: $25
Light gold color. Aromas of yellow apples, toasted biscuits, crushed shells, cut flower stems. On the palate this is crisp and nervy with a mineral tang and flavors of lemon, green apple. Toasted bread crumbs, chalk dust, floral perfume, this is a bright and zesty style that really powers through on the finish. Yum. A split blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir. (90 points)

N.V. J.B. Adam Crémant d'Alsace Emotion - France, Alsace, Crémant d'Alsace
SRP: $22
Light gold color. Bright and floral on the nose, also yellow apples, lemons, with richer cinnamon, biscuits and nougat. Zesty and brisk on the palate, I like the chalky brightness on this wine, but depth is impressive, too. Apricots and limes dusted with chalk, sea salt and candied orange peel. 95% Chardonnay, 5% Pinot Noir. (89 points)

N.V. Lucien Albrecht Crémant d'Alsace Brut Rosé - France, Alsace, Crémant d'Alsace
SRP: $22
Pale rose petal color. Fresh and floral aromas of red apple peel, peaches and ruby red grapefruit with some spicy nettle. Crisp and bright on the palate with zesty strawberry, red apple peel, along with spiced white tea, chalk dust and some white pepper. Fresh, brisk, minerally. All Pinot Noir. (87 points)

N.V. Willm Crémant d'Alsace Blanc de Noirs - France, Alsace, Crémant d'Alsace
SRP: $15
Very pale copper color. Yeasty and biscuit nose with apricot, red apple peel, lemon zest, mixed with yellow flowers, honeysuckle and musky cologne. Lively and crisp on the palate with a deep mineral and slate element, impressive depth, highly delicious. Strawberries, lemons and apricots mixed with musk, yellow flowers, almond and rose hips. For $15, this could easily become a house sparkling wine. All Pinot Noir. (89 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Exploring Alsace with Pinot Blanc, Gris and Noir

If I trace my love for wine all the way back, it starts in Alsace. I was living in the far southwestern corner of Germany, in boarding school for 11th and 12th grades, and Alsace was a quick trip. I made a few excursions into quaint villages there, scarfing down (and swooning over) the local food, hiking around steep hills —I was enthralled by the way vineyards carved their place into the hillsides, all over the place.

As I hiked, I noticed vineyards planted into what looked like pure rock, and there were so many different kinds of rocks and chunks of earth that changed from ridge to ridge. Each nook and cranny was different. After a hike, I walked into a bistro in a small village, ordered a bowl of French onion soup, and asked if the bartender had any wine from the huge vineyard that climbed up the steep hills above town. I spoke no French and he almost no English (there was much pointing and gesturing) but I was served a glass of white wine I understood came from the vineyard I had just hiked through.

My teenage mind was blown away at this concept. I don’t remember the wine, I think it was a Riesling, and I had no idea how to evaluate or appreciate it in any serious sense. But it was delicious. And, more importantly, it instilled in me a desire to find more about this relationship between specific places and their wines.

All this to say, to this day, I have a special appreciation for wines from Alsace. They continue to intrigue and excite me, so I’m always happy to review more of them. This week, I have a range of wines from Alsace, all hailing from the extended Pinot family (Noir, Gris, Blanc). Like a lot of wines from this region, they can be moderately priced, considering the high quality.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

N.V. Lucien Albrecht Crémant d'Alsace Brut Rosé - France, Alsace, Crémant d'Alsace
SRP: $22
Bright and floral aromas with grapefruit, peaches, red apple peel, spicy herbal notes. Zesty and crisp on the palate with lots of red apples, grapefruit, red apple peel, along with notes of spiced tea, white pepper and floral perfume. So good for the money, this is fresh and lively and crowd-pleasing. All Pinot Noir. (87 points)

2016 Paul Blanck Pinot Blanc - France, Alsace
SRP: $16
Pale yellow color. Nose of crushed shells, raw almond, honeysuckle, over peaches and apples. Rich texture but medium-body, brisk acid meets plump apricot and peach. Notes of salty seashells on a dry and crisp finish – a summer day, oysters and shellfish style Pinot Blanc. (87 points)

2013 Albert Boxler Pinot Blanc Reserve - France, Alsace
SRP: $28
Deep yellow color. Aromas are rich with honey and bruised apple, but also bright and lively with lemon verbena, chalk and minerals. Crisp acidity frames the wine nicely, while medium-bodied and honeyed texture adds depth. Peaches, apricot, lime, lemon, doused in minerals, chalk dust and smashed rocks. Deep, focused, yet airy and elegant at the same time. Some interesting cellar potential here. (90 points)

2013 Trimbach Pinot Gris Reserve - France, Alsace
SRP: $26
Light yellow color. Aromas of apricot, papaya, drizzled with lime, topped with seashells and floral perfume. Medium-bodied on the palate, crisp and nervy style with a long streak of minerals and crushed shells. Dry but packed with fruit (papaya, pineapple, lime juice), with some white floral tones. Lovely, crisp but complex Pinot Gris that has a few years of aging potential for sure. (89 points)

2016 Emile Beyer Pinot Gris Tradition - France, Alsace
SRP: $20

Light gold color. Aromas of apricots, yellow plums, yellow raisins, rich with honey but also some bright white floral notes. Plump and rich on the palate but moderating acidity. Yellow plums, juicy apricots, laced with honey, cinnamon spiced tea, some crushed chalk and mineral tones clean out the finish. Rich texture and fruit but also clear and pretty. (88 points)

2016 Lucien Albrecht Pinot Gris Cuvée Romanus - France, Alsace
SRP: $18
Pale yellow color. Plump aromas of peaches, nectarine, spiced white tea, honeysuckle, daisies. Rich and juicy fruit on the palate but fresh acidity, this shows peaches cantaloupe, nectarine, along with some floral, white pepper, mineral tones. Pleasant and easy to drink but sports solid complexity. (88 points)

2016 Domaine Osterag Pinot Noir Les Jardins - France, Alsace
SRP: $27
Interesting light purple color. Aromas of juicy black cherries and raspberries, a lovely spicy herbal and pepper element, with roses and violets and rhubarb. Bright and airy feel to this wine, even though the acidity is tart and the tannins show grip. The fruit is red, bright and delicious, and I love those classic Alsace earthy-spice elements (this one shows black tea, rhubarb, black pepper). I’d like to see how this shows in four to five years. (89 points)

2014 Domaines Schlumberger Pinot Noir Les Princes Abbés - France, Alsace
SRP: $29
Medium ruby color. Aromas of tart cherries, strawberries, along with pickling spices, roses, spices tea, earthy-tobacco notes. Medium-bodied, dusty tannins, zippy acidity, it all lines up very well. Tart cherries, strawberries, red plums, laced with tobacco, sage, mushroom, pickle notes. I tasted this a year ago, and it’s developed nicely since then and should continue to do so. (89 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

J Vineyards' Bubble Room - An Exciting Wine & Food Experience in Sonoma

If you’re traveling through Sonoma and looking for a memorable wine and culinary experience, you must check out the Bubble Room at J Vineyards.

One of the most well-known sparkling wine producers in Sonoma, J Vineyards & Winery is located off Old Redwood Highway near Healdsburg. They also produce some still Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, a delicious Russian River appellation Pinot Noir and a few exciting single-vineyard Pinots from selected spots in the Russian River.

 

The winery and tasting room offer up your basic wine tasting scenario, as well as a tour-tasting combo. But if you want the best possible experience, plan ahead and reserve a spot at the Bubble Room.  (Open Thursday-Sunday, 11 am-3 pm)

Chef Erik serves some fresh, local olive oil to
J Vineyards' new winemaker Nicole Hitchcock

Here, in a glass-enclosed area abutting the main tasting room, chef Erik Johnson works his magic. The Bubble Room offers a five-course lunch paired with J's wines for a tremendously reasonable $75 (considering the quality of the food, wine and venue). It's a simple concept: pairing local food with estate wines. But the food and the wines are anything but simple.

Using hyper-local ingredients, Chef Erik Johnson crafts complex but suave dishes to pair with the wines. The menu changed every six weeks in order to incorporate the seasonal harvests. During my meal, I asked him which ingredient came from farthest away, and where it came from. He thought a few seconds before saying, “Um, Petaluma?”

The winery itself is sleek, steely and ultra-modern, and I got the impression that no expenses were spared in the construction. The food preparation and presentation is precise and superbly executed, making it a perfect match for the overall aesthetic of the winery itself.

My notes on the wines are detailed below.
 

2008 J Vineyards & Winery Brut Rosé - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
Biscuity nose with yellow apples, almonds, red apples and minerals. Crisp, clean and quite complex, as the orange, red and yellow apple peels play well off the complex almond and toasted biscuit flavors. The five years aging on the lees has imbued this with a deep sense of fresh baked bread. Quite long and persistent with a bright, mineral-crusted finish. (88 points)

2014 J Vineyards & Winery Pinot Gris California - California

SRP: $17
Floral and full of tropical fruit (guava, pineapple) aromas with some honey as well. Plump texture, the richness of that Central Valley fruit (yellow plums, pineapple, guava paste) mixes with some brightness and lighter floral tones, ends up being relatively clean and fresh. Simple, but well done. (85 points)

My lunch theme was "An Ode to Squash" and this soup with roasted vegetables was delicious.

2013 J Vineyards & Winery Chardonnay Estate - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

SRP: $28
Smells of baked pears, rich yellow apples, hints of sea salt mix with a sweet vanilla note. Creamy on the body with lovely richness yet bright acid for balance keeps the wine together. Lovely pears and baked apple, dusted with nougat, honeycomb, almond and vanilla. Smooth and silky finish. A richer style but stays bright and offers a good dose of complexity. (90 points)

2013 J Vineyards & Winery Pinot Noir Bow Tie Vineyard Russian River Valley - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

SRP: $65
So lovely on the nose: deep flowers, juicy raspberries and cherries, some cola, clove and dusty earth. Bright acid combines with a rich texture on the palate, making this wine pure and vibrant. Tangy red cherries, silky red plums, strawberry jam, the fruit is mixed with complex earth and savory aspects. Some cedar and chestnut woven in quite nicely. Aged 13 months in 30% new French oak. (91 points)

N.V. J Vineyards & Winery Cuvée 20 - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $28

Smells of sweet pears and oranges along with pie crust and buttered biscuits. Ripe and slightly sweet with juicy pears and peach fruit, helped by some clean acid. I get hints of minerals and sea breeze as well. A reliable bubbly that would please many a palate. If you see any J wine in a store, it will likely be this bottle, which is their best seller (and for good reason). (87 points)

Long Island's Lieb Cellars Shines With Refreshing Range of Wines

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

The North Fork of Long Island’s Lieb Cellars was founded in 1992, and judging from a recent tasting of their wines, they have found a healthy rhythm. The wines shared a common thread: they’re bright, clean, refreshing and delicious. Lieb Cellars gets their juice from 11 classic vinifera varieties, which are planted in Tetris-like blocks across four different vineyards. This diversity appears to give Australian-born winemaker Russell Hearn a lot of options for blending.

They have a range of everyday-drinking wines, the Bridge Lane label (a white blend, a red blend and a Chardonnay), which are shockingly tasty and interesting for $15 a bottle. In addition to the typical bottle, these wines come in three-liter boxes and 20-liter plastic kegs. For big get-togethers, I could see a box or keg of Bridge Lane as an inexpensive but crowd-pleasing option, but they offer enough subtlety and complexity for wine lovers to appreciate, especially given the price. The “Reserve” label wines are unique expressions of their grapes and places, but the Cab Franc stole the show for my palate.

This wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted:

2014 Lieb Family Cellars Bridge Lane White Blend - New York
SRP: $15
Bright lemon color. Gorgeous nose: white peach, green pears and limes topped with floral elements (honeysuckle and dandelion), crushed chalk and ocean spray. Fresh and bright but a playful feel on the palate. Flavors of white peaches, green pears and nectarines mix together nicely with flowers, white pepper, sea breeze and chalk. Clean and bright but a lot of complexity in here. Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and some white juice from Pinot Noir as well. Dry, no oak, no maloactic fermentation, 12.9% alcohol. (87 points)

2014 Lieb Family Cellars Chardonnay Bridge Lane - New York
SRP: $15
Pale gold color. Bright and clean on the nose, with plenty of ripe fruit (papaya, yellow apples, nectarine) but also a refreshing sense of sea breeze, shells and honeysuckle. Crisp acid, a refreshing tartness on the palate but some richness as well. Yellow apples, pineapple, juicy nectarine fruit, topped with some sea salt, almond, honeysuckle and potpourri. Juicy, fun, refreshing, balanced, really impressive for the price. All stainless steel, no maloactic fermentation, 12.9% alcohol. (87 points)

Review: 2013 Lieb Family Cellars Bridge Lane Red Blend - New York, Long Island, North Fork
SRP: $15
Deep ruby color. Nose of juicy black cherries, plums, raspberry jam, some violets, sweet red licorice. Medium-bodied, light tannins and moderate acid. Juicy black cherries, dark plums and blueberries, easy-drinking and fresh fruit, dashed with some violets, loamy soil and a kick of black pepper. Not too complex, but I like this open, fresh, easy-drinking approach. 70% Merlot, 15% Malbec, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Petit Verdot. 12.9% alcohol. (86 points)

2013 Lieb Family Cellars Pinot Blanc Reserve - New York, Long Island, North Fork
SRP: $22
Pale straw color. The aromas jump out of the glass with juicy white peaches, kiwi and pear nectar, backed up by some honeysuckle, dandelion and clovers. Light bodied but tangy acid, an unassuming wine but plenty of flavor. White peaches, nectarines, juicy pears, yellow apples, so much fruit and all of it farmer’s market fresh. I love the complex web of white and yellow flowers, some ginger, sea shells and quinine notes. Leaves the palate clean and the lips smacking for more. Very pretty, crowd-pleasing and would pair well with so many foods. Six months in stainless steel, this clocks in at a light and easy 11.9% alcohol. (88 points)

2013 Lieb Family Cellars Sparkling Rosé Reserve - New York, Long Island, North Fork
SRP: $35
Pale copper color. Vibrant and bright aromas of grapefruit, red apples, wild strawberries, added together with sea shells, biscuits and a slight savory hint (mushroom?). Tart acid kicks off the palate and stays sharp throughout, moderate creaminess adds to the texture. McIntosh apple, strawberry and ruby red grapefruit (all of it crunchy and tangy), I like the notes of sea breeze and oyster shell, and I get that same savory kick, like earth and white mushrooms. Long, clean and crisp, there’s a lot to like here. I’d love to taste this with some local oysters. 13.3% alcohol, 16 months on the lees, 2/3 Pinot Noir and 1/3 Chardonnay. (88 points)

2013 Lieb Family Cellars Cabernet Franc Reserve - New York, Long Island, North Fork
SRP: $40
Deep purple-ruby. Needs a bit of air but opens to show deep black cherries and red/black currants. Deeply fruit but laced with smoke, graphite, tobacco, chicory coffee and loamy soil. Medium body (12.8% alcohol). Velvety but dusty tannins and bright acid make for great balance. Fleshy red and black currant fruit, mix in some blueberries, but I also get a complex blend of earth, graphite, chewing tobacco, violets and loam. So pure and vibrant, lots of complexity. Pleasant now but a proper decant is a good idea. Includes 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot, aged 10 months in Hungarian oak. (90 points)

Before the Bubbles: Still Pinot from Veuve Clicquot

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

It’s painful to say this, but I’ve never visited Champagne. It’s high on my list but, alas, my Champagne experience comes only from sipping flutes. So I was excited to attend a wine dinner with one of Veuve Clicquot’s winemakers, Pierre Casenave, at Boss Shepherd in Washington, DC.

Of course, the menu feautured lots of bubbles — the orange label brut, the non-vintage rosé, the 2004 rosé and the tête de cuvée La Grande Dame — but I was most excited by the still red wines. Rarely bottled or sold, these Coteaux Champenois reds offer a unique peek into the terroir-translating power of Pinot Noir.

Pierre, who joined Veuve Clicquot in 2008, is part of a team of winemakers and tasting panelists who work together under chef de caves Dominique Demarville to craft the various house blends. At this tasting, Pierre focused on the different Pinot Noirs that are blended into the higher-end cuvées. These 2013 vintage still reds came from Verzy and Bouzy, both Pinot-heavy Grand Cru vineyards in the Montagne de Reims region. 

I asked Pierre about the difference between Verzy and Bouzy in terms of their terroir imprint for Pinot. He said Verzy is “impacted more by minerality” and provides a fresher, brighter approach. Bouzy is more about depth, structure and spice. But, Pierre cautioned, the vintage is everything. “What’s true one year is completely false the next year.” In addition to the Verzy and Bouzy, we also tasted the Clos Colin. Pierre produced only six barrels of the Clos Colin, a select parcel within Bouzy that is blended into La Grande Dame. 

When it comes to Pinot Noir, Pierre said his job is to avoid bitterness and astringency as the grapes struggle to ripen in the cool Champagne climate. If that’s his goal, I think he succeeded wonderfully in 2013. I found these wines to be fresh, open, inviting and complex, without a trace of anything green or bitter. As I swirled and sniffed the wines extensively, taking in the complex aromas, Pierre chimed in with a disclaimer: “First of all, it’s not meant to be drank as a still wine.” Well, he could’ve fooled me.

The Verzy was brisk, clean and full of fresh red fruit and minerals. The Bouzy had a lot of similar elements, but it was tinged with more floral and tea elements. The Clos Colin was one of the most mineral-centric Pinot Noirs I’ve tasted. It’s an unbelievably stony and complex Pinot with laser-like focus and electric acid, yet an effortless feel on the palate. 

At the end of the night, we were served glasses of Cliquot’s orange label brut, Clicquot’s bread and butter bubbly, along with straws. Diners were encouraged to use the straws to stir some of the still red wine into the bubbly and create our own blends. 

It’s a fun idea, but I pushed the bubbles aside and continued contemplating the beauty and uniqueness of the still reds.

My tasting notes on the Coteaux Champenois reds and the Grande Dame rosé are posted below.

2013 Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Verzy Rouge - Champagne, Coteaux Champenois
A light cherry juice color. Almost Gamay-like on the nose, like a burst of bright strawberries and cherries with exotic flowers, minerals and chunks of rock. So silky and fine on the palate, with light tannins and refreshing acid. Red currants, white cherries, strawberries, the fruit is so bright and gushing. I love the mineral, black tea and rose hips though. This has a long finish with notes of oyster shell and a hint of tobacco leaf. I have no other Pinot Noirs with which to compare this — it is its own thing, a very pretty thing. All stainless steel. (91 points)

2013 Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Bouzy Rouge - France, Champagne, Coteaux ChampenoisJust a tiny bit darker than the Verzy. Nose of pure cherries and wild strawberries, a Morgon-like mineral and granite note along with exotic violets and roses, some lavender and potpourri. Tart and clean on the palate, with smooth and dusty tannins and high acid. The red currants and cranberry fruit is so clean and crisp and crunchy, and it’s laced with rose hips, limestone, black tea and an array of oceanic notes like sea salt and crushed shells. Long, zesty, just a tiny bit more structure than the Verzy. As a lover of lean and high acid Pinots, I find this to be a truly gorgeous wine. (91 points)

2013 Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Bouzy Rouge Clos Colin - France, Champagne, Coteaux ChampenoisCherry juice color. Intoxicating nose of white and red cherries, wild strawberries, dried cranberries, not to mention the fall leaves, violets, nettles and graphite. The palate is incredibly smooth and clean while the acid is electric, well-structured by the dusty tannins. Red cherries and raspberries, so fresh, tangy and pure, backed up by complex notes of loam, truffle, cigar smoke and gravel roads. The minerality in this wine is intense, and the overall package is so complex. More black fruit than the other two wines, this is the most intricate and lasting, at the same time it’s so delicate and elegant wine. I’m stunned. (96 points)

2004 Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Champagne Brut Rosé La Grande Dame - France, Champagne 
Vibrant copper-salmon-orange color, a bit deeper in color than the 2004 Brut Rosé. Such aromatic complexity, it really takes time to open up and show its true stuffing: strawberries, apricot, red apple peel, limestone, oyster shell, sea breeze, biscuits and a hint of smoke. Tart acid on the palate, this is an intense wine but it maintains an elegant posture despite itself. Red cherries, currants and wild strawberries play off of minerals, chalk, oyster shell. Lovely toast and brioche, I get some really interesting notes that I can’t quite place, something like barley and sweet onions, but whatever it is I love it. Time coaxes out all sorts of complexity. A beautiful wine, but decades away from maturity. Fascinating to taste this wine alongside the still 2013 Clos Colin Pinot Noir. (94 points)

Now, on to planning that Champagne trip.

Crémant d’Alsace: More Bubbles for Your Buck

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

If I could afford it, I’d drink Champagne always. But Crémant d’Alsace tends to be my go-to bubbly when I’m trying not to break the bank. I served a Crémant d’Alsace at my wedding last year, and it was a huge hit — and not very expensive.

I recently tasted through four Crémants d’Alsace and enjoyed all of them. These wines were received as trade samples and, because there were only four of them, tasted sighted.

N.V. René Muré Crémant d’Alsace Brut - France, Alsace, Crémant d’Alsace

SRP: $18

Salty on the nose with some hazelnut, biscuits, quinine and crushed rocks. Fine bubbles, medium acid, some creaminess to the mouthfeel, stays lean and zippy though. Ruby red grapefruit and green apple mix with elements of cucumber water, minerals and limestone. Notes of graham cracker, vanilla and almond. Decent depth and length of finish, with elements of oyster shell. A blend of Pinot Blanc, Auxerrois, Riesling, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir. (87 points)

N.V. Lucien Albrecht Crémant d’Alsace Brut Rosé - France, Alsace, Crémant d’Alsace

SRP: $20

Nose of white and red flowers, watermelon and strawberries. Very fizzy on the palate, this is a fun wine, but it's neither deep nor complex. Tangy with flavors of watermelons, strawberries, lemons and some minerals. Seems like a crowd-pleasing pink bubbly. 100% Pinot Noir. (85 points)

N.V. François Schmitt Crémant d’Alsace Blanc de Noirs Brut - France, Alsace, Crémant d’Alsace

SRP: $29

Crisp and clean aromas of oyster shell, flowers, white peach and white cherries. Creamy but tangy on the palate, the white cherry and apricot fruit is laced with oceanic elements of sea salt and oyster shell. Finishes with minerals and slight toast. 100% Pinot Noir From 40-year-old vines in Orschwihr. (87 points)

N.V. Domaine Agape Crémant d’Alsace “Emotion” - France, Alsace, Crémant d’Alsace
SRP: $23

Smells like white flowers, green apple, toasted and salted nuts and. Big and creamy on the palate, but also fine and tangy. Green apple, white peach and some lime, the wine is also laced with minerals and toasted bread. Solid complexity and depth. (88 points)

Tasting Through a Grab Bag of Italian Wines

This week, I’m looking to Italy. Since my last post on Italy, I’ve tasted some fun and tasty wines, all of which came in at less than $30. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted blind, unless otherwise noted.

2006 Ferrari Perlé - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Trentino, Trento

SRP: $35
Tasted sighted. Could’ve fooled me for Champagne on the nose. Lots of doughy, yeasty, lemon-lime notes and apple peel. Tangy acid, fine bubbles, a good amount of creaminess on the palate. The key lime is mixed in with a pleasantly bitter crab apple note. Toasted bread and mineral accents linger on the finish. A solid sparkling Chardonnay for $35. (88 points)

2012 Folonari Pinot Grigio Venezie IGT - Italy, Venezie IGT
SRP: $8
Medium yellow color. Some golden apple and honey on the nose, but also some brighter floral and citrus components. Medium acid, with yellow and green apple, and there are some floral notes, but overall it’s a bit bland. Short finish. (79 points)

2012 Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi “Tenuta dell’ Ammiraglia” Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
SRP: $18
A light straw color. The first thing that comes to mind upon sniffing this is banana peel, like the inside of a perfectly ripe banana. There’s also some lemon zest and seashell. On the palate, this wine is plump and generously textured, with green melon, pineapple and banana fruit. Medium acid keeps it reigned in. A white tea and honey note rounds out the fruit, and there’s a shot of minerals and crushed rock flavors. Quite complex. Rich, but not too much, and the flavors are clean and fresh throughout. A delicious Vermentino. (90 points)

2012 Folonari Chianti - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti
SRP: $8
Juicy, dark fruit on the nose, blackberries, candied cherries, as well as some earth and tobacco. Creamy texture forms from the fine tannins, fresh fruit and moderate acid. The plums and blackberries taste pure and juicy, and they’re backed up with notes of cracked pepper and some tobacco and toast. Surprisingly pleasant for the price. (86 points)

2011 Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi “Terre More dell’ Ammiraglia” Maremma Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Maremma Toscana IGT
SRP: $14
Aromas of plum sauce, rich earth, allspice, currant jam, roasted coffee. Juicy red plums and black cherries on the palate, with an overall jammy profile. Medium acid and firm tannins provide structure. Pepper and floral tones mix in with toasted oak, roasted coffee, cedar and caramel. Very rich and bombastic, perhaps not the most food-friendly Italian red blend, but very tasty. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot and 5% Syrah. (87 points)

2010 Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi Morellino di Scansano “Riserva Pietraregia dell’ Ammiraglia” - Italy, Tuscany, Maremma, Morellino di Scansano
SRP: $23
A bit restrained on the nose, but it opens up to show violets, black currant, vanilla and rich coffee. On the palate, the tannins have grip but also a round feel. Significant tartness, with flavors of black cherry, currants and snappy plums. Mocha, hazelnut and vanilla flesh the wine out. I also get a light sense of mineral and graphite on this wine. Put together well, and quite delicious, this wine has quite a few years of refinement ahead of it. 85% Sangiovese, 10% Ciliegiolo and 10% Syrah. I dig this, especially at the price. (89 points)

2012 Allegrini Valpolicella - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella
SRP: $15
Red and black cherries, some raisin and smoke note on the nose. Light tannins, soft acid, this wine takes the road of simple, easy-drinking pleasure. Flavors of black cherry and currant, snappy, but the fruit also has some coffee and earthy aspects. A juicy blend of 65% Corvina, 30% Rondinella and 5% Molinara. (85 points)

2009 Allegrini “Palazzo della Torre” Veronese IGT - Italy, Veneto, Veronese IGT
SRP: $20
A kicking mix of sour and dark cherries on the nose, along with some dusty earth, tobacco and roasted coffee. Firm tannins for structure, and the acid keeps it clean. The sour cherry and red plum and currant fruit is tangy and delicious, backed up by roasted herbs, violets and rich coffee. Rich and velvety, but the focus and zip to this wine is impressive. I bet it will have even more to show soon. 70% Corvina, 25% Rondinella and 5% Sangiovese. (90 points)

2009 Allegrini “La Grola” Veronese IGT - Italy, Veneto, Veronese IGT
SRP: $28
Bright cherry color. The cherry and plum fruit smells rich but fresh, along with some sweet herbs, dried flowers. Loving the aromas here, and it opens up more with time. The tangy acid plays off the rigid tannins. Tastes like sour cherries mixed with some ripe blackberry, and there’s a nice mix of spice, cedar, coffee and a flavor that reminds me of a smoky Islay Scotch. Dense and earthy, this will open up more over the next few years. 80% Corvina and 20% Syrah. (90 points) 

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Champagne Blind Taste-Off (You'll Never Guess the Winner)

The idea: With Valentine’s Day coming up, a friend had the idea of gathering up some wine nerds and some non-vintage Champagne. We tasted and scored the wines blind to find out which bubbly gives the best bang for the buck.

The wines: 10 non-vintage brut Champagnes that cost about $50 or less.

The takeaway: A Champagne’s quality is not necessarily determined by its price tag. Also, no matter how much you know about wine, blind tasting always serves up delicious humble pie.

The tasting panel consisted of myself and six other oenophiles, including wine bloggers, collectors and a winemaker. It’s safe to say we’re all Champagne fans — isn’t everyone? — and each taster has some significant experience with the best of French bubbles.

We tried to bring together the “big names” in non-vintage Champagne blends, those brightly-colored, easily-identifiable labels you see on the shelf at your local liquor store or Safeway. At the end of the tasting, we unveiled the wines and averaged the seven scores to see which came out on top.

Now, all blind tastings contain at least some level of surprise. That’s the whole point. But I doubt anyone could have predicted the outcome of this blind tasting.

Let’s count down the 10 Champagnes…

#10) N.V. Pol Roger Champagne Brut Réserve ($50)
Group score: 82.7 points. My score: 85 points.

Richer aromas of orchard fruit, mango and apricot. Very bready on the palate, with lots of toast, bruised apple and lime. Bread and bagel notes linger onto the finish. (Note: This was likely an “off bottle.” Several tasters with extensive Pol Roger experience thought this particular bottle was not representative of the wine as a whole.) 

#9) N.V. Heidsieck & Co. Monopole Champagne Blue Top Brut ($45)
Group average: 84.3 points. My score: 85 points.

Aromas of white peach, grapefruit, green apple and some raw pear skins. The palate is tangy, showing lots of green pear and apple. A bit of nutty, waxy flavors, but they lack depth. Overall, a mediocre effort.

#8) N.V. Delamotte Champagne Brut ($46)
Group average: 86.3 points. My score: 86 points.

Initially shy on the nose, with green apples and very light floral aromas. The palate is brisk and tangy, with green grape and apple flavors. Overall, a bit harsh in its flavor profile. Sure there’s some zippy acid, but this wine doesn’t have the depth to back it up.

#7) N.V. Taittinger Champagne La Française Brut ($50)
Group average: 86.6 points. My score: 87 points.

Floral aromas, peach blossoms, limestone. The palate is very tangy, with laser-like acid, and lots of grapefruit and citrus peel flavors. Lingers long on the finish.

#6) N.V. Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Champagne Brut ($50)
Group average: 87.6 points. My score: 88 points.

Aromas of chalk, limestone and white flowers, mixed in with freshly toasted bread. The palate is creamy and tangy, with dominant flavors of fresh apple juice, toasted baguette and lots of lemon peel. The palate shows a lot of cut and a mineral-driven finish. Rich yet lean.

#5) N.V. Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Cuvée St. Anne ($46)
Group average: 88.3 points. My score: 87 points.

Flint, baked apple and fun dip candy on the nose. There’s a good amount of tangy pear and grapefruit mixed in with the apricot and toast flavors. Solid acid and white peach carry the finish. Solid stuff.

Tie for #4) and #3)

N.V. Louis Roederer Champagne Brut Premier ($50)

Group average: 89 points. My score: 88 points.

Aromas of honeycomb, white peach, white flowers and mixed nuts. The palate is really nutty, with lots of richness, along with tangerine and green apple. Tangy, nice acid.

N.V. Bollinger Champagne Special Cuvée Brut ($60)
Group average: 89 points. My score: 89 points.

Aromas of apricot, sea shore, green apple and honeysuckle. Super zesty on the palate, with fine bubbles and lots of cream and grapefruit flavors. Very pure and bright, with lots of limestone and citrus peel flavors. Huge acid/cut on the palate.

#2) N.V. Moët & Chandon Champagne Brut Impérial ($50)
Group average: 89.1 points. My score: 90 points.

Very ethereal on the nose, elegant flowers, honeysuckle and faint minerals. The palate shows mineral water, papaya and lime over top of tangy acid and fine bubbles. The crisp green aple and limestone flavors linger long onto the finish. This wine begs for salads or oysters. My favorite wine of the tasting.

And the winner is…

#1) N.V. Kirkland Signature Champagne Brut ($20)
Group average: 90.3 points. My score: 88 points.

What an interesting Champagne. It smells like papaya, mixed nuts, goat cheese and cheese rind... really strange at first, but it opened up and got more complex with some air. Zippy on the palate, full of toasted coconut, peanut shell, hazelnut and limestone. Rich, yet compact, seems like it needs some air to open up fully. When this was unveiled, we were so shocked to see it was the house brand from Costco. This Champagne is made by Manuel Janisson, a well-respected producer. Hats off to Costco for bringing in this juice at such a low price point. This is why I love blind tastings.

So, there you have it. After everything, the Costco brand Champagne wins out. Wine is a strange and fascinating thing, isn’t it?