Three 2012 Macon Chardonnays

The Maconnais region of southern Burgundy has long been one of my go-to areas for good Chardonnay at less cost than the Cote d’Or. I’d never tried any wines from Domaine Cordier or Domaine Cristophe Cordier, which are imported by Bobby Kacher, but I enjoyed these three selections. 

The Chardonnay crop in the Macon dropped slightly from 2011, but the acidity tends to be slightly higher than 2011. I need to explore many more white Burgundies from this vintage, but so far I like what I’ve tasted.

My notes...

2012 Domaine Christophe Cordier Viré-Clessé Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Viré-Clessé

SRP: $27
Aromas of golden pear and peach, nutty, flora. Creamy, honeyed texture, some pear and baked apple, peach and honey. Slight mineral tones. Easy-drinking, fresh but also rich (aged in 10% new French oak). Rides that Chardonnay middle ground very well. (87 points)

2012 Domaine Christophe Cordier Mâcon Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Mâcon

SRP: $20
A bright golden color. Honeydew and cantaloupe melon on the nose, some honey and bright floral tones. Medium acid, a lighter approach on the mouth, the lemon and grapefruit peel mix with notes of apricot. Some sharp mineral and oyster shell tones, with just a bit of honeycomb. Not incredibly deep or long but it’s put together well and would be a great summer sipper. (86 points)

2012 Domaine Cordier Père et Fils Pouilly-Fuissé - France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Pouilly-Fuissé

SRP: $26
Light gold color. Bright lime and dusty chalk on the nose, along with rich papaya and honey. Crisp acid, lots of minerality and stony, chalky aspects. The fruit combo of fresh lime and papaya works very well. An underlying minerality and freshness, but plenty of bold, richer elements. (90 points)

Virginia vs. Other Wine Regions – A Blind Taste-Off

This year I’m planting my own vineyard in Virginia with the hopes of one day making my own chardonnay. The site is located on an historical mill house property in Virginia’s Central Region American Viticultural Area (AVA). It’s a sunny hillside composed of sand and clay that overlooks a beautiful creek and mill pond. This whole endeavor is nothing more than a hobby — I hope to make a miniscule amount of wine to drink with friends and family — but I mention this project to demonstrate my faith in Virginia’s terroir. Yup, I just used Virginia and terroir in the same sentence, and I’m not being sarcastic. What of it?

Virginia is one of the most diverse states in the country. It has beaches and mountains, cold streams full of trout and warm catfish-packed ponds, a vibrant death metal scene and some the most conservative evangelical institutions in the country. Virginia wines are no exception to this rule. There are dozens of fruit wines with cutesy labels and lots of cheap plonk sold in grocery stores, but Virginia winemakers are also making every conceivable style of chardonnay and some Bordeaux style blends that are capable of rivaling big California bottles — not to mention the successful experiments with lesser-known varities like petite manseng, viognier and tannat.

At least that’s what I’ve come to think since I started drinking Virginia wine five or six years ago. The idea behind this “Virginia vs. The World” tasting was to put these notions to the test. Hosted by the Washington Wine Academy, one of the nation’s premiere wine schools, the theme was quite simple: pit Virginia chardonnays and cabernet-based blends against similar, comparatively-priced wines from other regions all across the world. For chardonnays, we tried to stick to the $18-$35 price range, and $25-$55 for the red blends. To ensure the wine tasting was as objective as possible, the wines were all brown-bagged and tasted blind. We lumped the Virginia and world wines together into two flights, tasted through them, wrote our notes, scored them and finally unveiled the bottles.



Virginia is an incredibly diverse state. This map shows Virginia's different AVAs (American Viticultural Areas).

Several other oenophile friends, wine professionals and writers, many with extensive experience with Virginia vino, attended the event: David White (Terroirist); Frank Morgan (Drink What You Like); Christian G.E. Schiller (Schiller-Wine); Aaron Nix-Gomez (Hogshead Wine) and others.

Well, let’s get down to the wines. (Note: Prices are estimates.)



Chardonnays…

2010 Gloria Ferrer Chardonnay Estate Grown - USA, California, Napa, Carneros ($20)
Corked. That moldy, TCA aura underlines everything else. The cork taint isn’t the worst I’ve seen, but it’s still ruinous. (FLAWED)

2010 Domaine Roger Luquet Pouilly-Fuissé Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Pouilly-Fuissé ($20)
This wine smells underripe, like green apple peels, grapefruit rind, but there’s also a distinct grass and chive note that reminds me more of sauvignon blanc. The palate is light and tangy, lacking depth and complexity. Citrus rind, Sweet Tart candies and green onion linger on the finish. Not bad, but a bit weak. One of the few 2010 Mâcon chardonnays I haven’t gotten too excited about. (82 points)

2010 Ox-Eye Vineyards Chardonnay - USA, Virginia, Shenandoah Valley ($20)
Sweet aromas of cotton candy, cateloupe, honeysuckle and just a hint of sea breeze, which I like. Plump and soft on the palate. The green melon fruit is mixed in with nougat, hazelnut and coconut. Lacking serious complexity, but a solid chardonnay nonetheless. (84 points)

2010 Ankida Ridge Chardonnay - USA, Virginia ($32)
On the nose: honeysuckle, green pears and a mix of bright floral and citrus peel notes. The palate is bold and creamy, but not overbearing. Some honeycomb and graham cracker flavors accent the green pear and buttered popcorn. A bit flat on the finish, but overall a solid chardonnay. A self-described “family-run micro vineyard” located at 1,800 feet, this chardonnay has piqued my interest in Ankida. (85 points)

2010 Linden Chardonnay Hardscrabble - USA, Virginia, Northern Region ($33)
This chardonnay shows a richer, more extracted nose of peanut shell, bruised yellow apple, some nougat and honeysuckle. Round on the palate but medium acid keeps it balanced. The flavors of yellow pear, whipped honey, peanut and pina coloda taste a tad sweet. Overall a nice wine, although I didn’t enjoy this vintage as much as I have other Hardscrabbles. The fruit comes from the Hardscrabble Vineyard, which sits on an eastern slope of the Blue Ridge in Fauquier County. At an elevation of about 1,300 feet, the vine age ranges from 16 to 25 years. (86 points)

2010 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Chardonnay Karia - USA, California, Napa Valley ($30)
Aromas of white peach, pineapple and green melon. Medium-bodied on the palate with ripe pear and melon fruit, but the wine maintains a softer overall package. Creamy finish with notes of caramel and honeycomb, but not too oaky or thick. A sleeker styled wine that clocks in at 13.5% alcohol, this chardonnay is aged 8 months on the lees in 29% new French oak. Several tasters commented that this wine tasted "manipulated," and I see where they’re coming from, but I enjoyed its approach. (87 points)

2010 Domaine Des Moirots Christophe Denizot Montagny 1er Cru Le Vieux Chateau - France, Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise, Montagny 1er Cru ($25)
Complex on the nose, offering a mix of orange blossom, honeysuckle, flinty minerals and a note of kiwi. Zestier than the other wines, with great acidic cut. Flavors of lemon curd, green apple and pear fruit, highlighted by subtle cream and nutty flavors. Long, mineral-laden finish. This was my favorite wine of the flight, and the group’s as well. Might be a little unfair to the other wines because 2010 white Burgundies, even ones like this that cost around $25, simply rock. (90 points)

Cabernet-Based Blends…

2006 Le Baron de Brane - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux ($20)
Aromas of sweet black cherries, Laffy Taffy candy and green pepper. The combination isn’t my favorite. Strangely thin on the palate, with medium acid and tannins. That black cherry fruit plays with earth and dusty flavors. Thin and a bit medicinal on the finish. My least favorite wine of the flight, which came as something of a surprise considering the appellation, although I’ve never been a big fan of 2006 Bordeaux. (80 points)

2008 Chateau O’Brien Padlock Red - USA, Virginia, Central Region ($24)
A strange mix of sweet and savory aromas: candied cherries, raspberry jam and a dead ringer for sweet Amish pickles. Seriously, it smells just like sweet pickle relish with spices. The palate is tangy and sweet, showing raspberry jam and, again, that sweet pickle aspect. Rhubarb and smoke linger onto the finish. Not a simple wine, but not all that well-rounded either. Serious points for originality. A blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and petite verdot. (82 points)

2009 Château D’Aiguilhe - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Côtes de Castillon ($30)
Very ripe on the nose: sweet plums, purple Gushers candy, red licorice, notes of sweet incense. A fruit-forward wine to the core, with lots of toasty mocha accenting the candied plum and cherry fruit. Yummy, but not the most balanced wine. I guessed this as a Virginia red because of those sweet fruit notes. I was surprised to see this was Bordeaux, but it’s a modern-style from a really ripe vintage, so it makes sense. (85 points)

2008 Barboursville Vineyards Octagon - USA, Virginia, Central Region, Monticello ($48)
Smells like cassis, black cherry jam, smoke and rhubarb. The palate shows tangy acid, bright tannins and creamy red and black fruit (currants, raspberries). Some nice toast and tobacco on the finish. Perhaps a bit too thin to be great, but a very nice Bordeaux-style blend for sure. A blend of merlot, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot. (86 points)

2007 Boxwood Winery Topiary - USA, Virginia ($25)
Aromas of smoke, cassis, dirt, leather and a hint of pickle. The palate shows soft tannins and creamy currant and blackberry fruit. Raspberry jam mixes with toasted oak. Very ripe and forward with a hint of tobacco on the finish. The group liked this far less than I did. (86 points)

2008 Dry Creek Vineyard Meritage - USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley ($25)
Deep, alluring aromas of fig, loam and earth. Medium-grain tannins, medium acid, this wine shows delicious fig paste and cassis flavors, backed up by herbs, green pepper and dusty earth. Fruity, but quite complex. A blend of 33% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 17% cabernet franc, 14% malbec and 6% petit verdot. (88 points)

2008 RdV Vineyards Rendezvous - USA, Virginia, Northern Region, Fauquier County ($55)
And the winner is RdV’s Rendezvous, a blend of 35% merlot, 32% cabernet sauvignon, 21% cabernet franc and 12% petit verdot. Dense aromatics, with some air it opened up to show blackberry, chocolate-covered cherries, sweet roses and toasted oak. The palate displays medium acid and delicious flavors of cranberry sauce and blackberry jam. Dry, firm tannins provide structure, as the waves of secondary flavors come in: chestnut, pepper, mocha and a hint of olive. Impressive depth, this wine will most definitely get better with three-to-five years in the cellar. Congrats RdV! (89 points)



Six Summer Whites

I drink white wines all year round, but this summer I've been drinking, almost exclusively, whites and roses. It's just too damn hot for tannins.Over the past week I've tasted a few chardonnays and white Rhône wines that showed well. When it's hot, I don't necessarily bust out the most exciting and stellar whites. Instead, I look for wines that offer freshness, pleasure and value. Here are a few such whites...

2011 Saint-Cosme Côtes du Rhône Blanc (France, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône)

Pineapple and mango jump out of the glass as soon as you smell it. With time, hints of clover honey and meringue came out. The pineapple and pear fruit on the palate is very fresh. There’s a creamy feel to the wine that I like, a bit of boldness, but the acid is present from start to finish to keep it all going. A hint of hazelnut wraps up the finish. Great balance and freshness. I’m really enjoying this combination of flavors. A blend of 30% roussanne, 20% viognier, 20% marsanne and 30% picpoul. Solid stuff, and a good value at $17. 86 points

2010 Domaine La Bastide Roussanne Vin de Pays d'Hauterive (France, Languedoc, Vin de Pays d'Hauterive)

Aromas of white peach, rich papaya, also some fresh flowers. Palate: some rich cantaloupe, honey, pineapple rind. This wine is full of chunky tropical fruit, but solid acid keeps it fresh. For $11, it's quite a bargain. 85 points

2011 Vasse Felix Chardonnay Margaret River (Australia, Western Australia, Margaret River)

I'm always interested in a chardonnay from Australia's Margaret River appellation. I usually like their combination of pure fruit, acid and mineral flavors. This chardonnay from Vasse Felix is no exception. Some really ripe aromas of pineapple, pear and roasted nuts. On the palate, this starts of with lots of white peach fruit, with hints of honey and toast. The acid is surprisingly high and there's a great lime and mineral aspect to this wine. Rich, but very focused. 88 points

2010 Frank Family Vineyards Chardonnay Napa Valley (California, Napa Valley)

Rich and bright yellow color in the glass. Aromas of butter, caramel and toast, warm and seductive. The palate shows rich pineapple and mango fruit, accented by a bit of buttered toast. Thing is, this wine is quite balanced. The acid on the finish makes this really refreshing, which is something I can't say for many Napa Valley chardonnays. Quite nice. 87 points

2009 Domaine Bernard Defaix Chablis "Les Hauts de Milly" (France, Burgundy, Chablis)

Floral nose, also some lemonhead candy aromas. The palate is really tangy, with huge acid that makes me think more of the 2008 vintage. The mineral intensity is great. White peach fruit and seashell flavors linger on the finish. A leaner style of Chablis from a very reliable producer. 88 points

2010 Domaine Michel Juillot Rully "Les Thivaux" (France, Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise, Rully) 

This chardonnay shows a lot of finesse for $30. Explosively aromatic, showing ripe yellow apple, lemon zest and minerals. The palate is medium-bodied with laser-like acid. Lots of lemon zest in this wine and a load of sea shells and minerals. It really reminds me of the freshest oysters and lemons. You could've fooled me that this was Chablis because it has great focus and a lot of limestone and citrus elements. Delicious stuff. I bet it could age and improve for a few years as well. 89+ points

Tasting New Wines with Peter Weygandt

Thank Bacchus for Peter Weygandt. Not only does he import a wide array of hand-picked, terroir-driven wines, but he's a damn nice guy. Over the years I've tasted a lot of wines with Peter, and it never ceases to amaze me how much he knows about his wine. He's got an experienced yet nuanced palate and a great ability to communicate, so the tastings are always informative and fun.

On Saturday Peter had a few dozen bottles open at the shop. He already sells some of the wines, while others will soon be on the shelves. Like all of Peter's selections, those at the tasting demonstrated traditional characteristics and a sense of place. Here are some notes on a few of Weygandt's imports.

2010 Tenuta Adolfo Spada Fiano di Avellino - Italy, Campania, Fiano di Avellino
Nothing like a good Campanian white on a summer day. Floral and melon aromas. Melon rind on the palate, a bit of oiliness. Nice cut on the finish. As my buddy Truman said, "It's a sticky day wine." (86 pts.)

2011 Marc Plouzeau Sauvignon Touraine Les Devants de la Bonnelière - France, Loire Valley, Touraine
When I tasted this blind last week, I guessed it as a Sancerre. Aromas of lemons and minerals, but I also picked up just a hint of green onion this time. Lots of acid, minerals and a bit of brine on this one. For $15, this is such a good sauvignon blanc. (88 pts.)

2010 Weingut Dr. Siemens Riesling Scivaro - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Initially there was a bit of hay and herbs on the nose, but it shifted to show white flowers, apricot nectar and circus peanuts. The palate is zippy and full of minerals, backed up by ripe melon fruit. That 2010 acid carries the wine from start to finish. A really solid riesling for the price point. (89 pts.)

2011 Herdade do Sobroso Vinho Regional Alentejano Sobro - Portugal, Vinho Regional Alentejano
I was surprised by the vibrancy and personality of this Portugese white wine. Sweet peaches and cotton candy on the nose. But the palate isn't sweet or overripe, just full of lush pear and melon fruit. Acid sings the entire time, and the finish is laced with minerals. Great party wine. (87 pts.)

2010 Catherine et Pascal Rollet Pouilly-Fuissé Domaine de la Chapelle Aux Bouthières - France, Burgundy, Pouilly-Fuissé
Gorgeous, elegant nose of pear, yellow flowers and hints of hazelnut. The palate is full of acid, from start to finish, and mixed in there are flavors of sweet pear, honeydew melon and a hefty shot of minerals. Delicious. (90 pts.)

2010 Domaine Daniel et Denis Alary Vin de Pays de la Principauté d'Orange La Grange Daniel - France, Southern Rhône, Vin de Pays de la Principauté d'Orange
Honey, ripe peach and clover on the nose. The palate shows a lot of rich melon and apricot fruit, but balanced acid, and a hint of nougat. 100% roussanne. (87 pts.)

2008 Domaine David Clark Côte de Nuits Villages - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits Villages
I was very impressed with the way this wine showed. It was really open and expressive, not shut-down at all. Fragrant aromas of cherries, smoke and beef broth. The palate shows silky tannins, tangy acid and flavors of pure cherry fruit, smoke and earth. Very subtle toast on the finish. Overall, this is a really balanced and complex village wine. (90 pts.)

2011 Domaine les Aphillanthes Vin de Pays de Vaucluse - France, Southern Rhône, Vin de Pays de Vaucluse
Aromas and flavors of sweet cherries and cola. Simple, but quite yummy. (84 pts.)

2009 Domaine Canet-Valette Saint-Chinian Une et Mille Nuits - France, Languedoc, Saint-Chinian
I'm glad Weygandt Wines will be bringing this stuff in. I've been a fan of Canet-Valette since I tasted their wines when I was a 21-year-old wine newbie. It's been years since I've had one, and the 2009 Une et Mille Nuits was a great re-introduction. Very fragrant, showing black olives, smoke, and lots of plums and dates. The palate is packed with dates, plum skins and gritty tannins. The fruit is backed up with savory broth, smoke and black pepper. Long, complex finish. This begs for lamb. (90 pts.)

2008 Domaine Canet-Valette Saint-Chinian Le Vin Maghani - France, Languedoc, Saint-Chinian
Cavent-Valette's high-end bottling, the Maghani, deserves serious credit. Lovely Languedoc aromas of sheep farm, charcoal, pepper. There's also this lovely aroma that reminds me of a combination of fresh cherries and rhubarb. Incredible, complex nose that will only get better with time. The palate is so savory: bacon fat, grilled meat, charcoal, mixed with black cherries and cassis. The finish is seamless and silky. 91+. I imagine this will get better of the next three-to-five. (91 pts.)

2009 La Bastide Blanche Bandol - France, Provence, Bandol
Aromas of plums, smoke, graphite and beef broth. The palate is medium+ bodeid with grippy tannins. It tastes very young, and needs a decant at least, but more likely two years of time in the cellar. Brute flavors of grilled meats, iron, tobacco, along with hardcore plum. Very enjoyable, but this youngin' needs time. (89 pts.)

Newly-Released Wines

I stopped by my favorite wine shop, Weygandt Wines, on a Thursday night to taste some of their new releases. Most of the wines were from the 2010 vintage, which is apparently spectacular all over Europe. I brought a 2010 riesling from my recent trip to the Mosel Valley, and it showed very well. It was a great time, with great people and discussion. This tasting was another example of why I'm going to be buying lots of French wines from the 2010 vintage. In Austria and Germany as well, 2010 is just a great vintage, and I can't wait to stock up on them.

2010 Kurt Angerer Grüner Veltliner "Kies" - Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal
I love how kurt angerer can put out a $20 gruner veltliner of this quality. The nose shows lime, grapefruit and slate. The palate is really spicy and full of acid. Flavors of grapefruit rind and slate. This is a really compact wine that will probably show better with a littler air or time in the bottle. Great stuff. (90 pts.)

2010 Weingut Jacob Steffen Erben Kestener Paulinshofberg Riesling Kabinett trocken - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
I bought this wine back from my trip to the Mosel Valley and popped it for some friends. I liked this wine a lot, and it seemed to be quite a crowd-pleaser. Perfumed nose with white flowers, lychee and white peach. the palate has great acid, chalk and minerals. On the midpalate, I get a flavor that reminds me of almond or chestnuts. Slate and lime linger on the finish. (90 pts.)

2010 Catherine et Pascal Rollet Mâcon Solutré-Pouilly Domaine de la Chapelle - France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Mâcon Solutré-Pouilly
I've enjoyed this wine in the past, and am excited to report that the 2010 is quite a steal. The nose shows lemons, salt and nuts. It's plump on the palate, and really zesty, but it's backed up by green apple fruit and hazelnuts. A very balanced chardonnay from a great viontage at bargain price. (89 pts.)

2010 Château de La Greffiere St. Véran - France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, St. Véran
pear and green apple on the nose. the palate is really creamy with buttescotch and hazelnut. lots of pulpy fruit. not as balanced as i'd like. (86 pts.)

2010 Domaine Auchère Sancerre - France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre
This was my first Sancerre from 2010, and what a good one. Aromas of lemons, slate and seashells. The palate is fresh and the acid is kicking. I love the key lime, orange rind and slate. This is a powerful, intense Sancerre that is really enjoyable. (90 pts.)

2009 Yannick Amirault Bourgueil La Coudraye - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Bourgueil
Dark purple color in the glass. The nose is a wonderful medley of black olive and black cherries, and I also get a distinct paprika and even a curry aroma. I love the nose. The palate is a pure burst of fresh cherry fruit. The tannins are chewy and it's all wrapped up with flavors of meat, olive and iron. This is a more bombastic style of cabernet franc, but I really enjoyed it. (90 pts.)

2010 Daniel Bouland Côte de Brouilly Cuvée Mélanie - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Côte de Brouilly
The 2010 beaujolais wines are very impressive. This is no exception. It's very aromatic, showing fresh strawberries, cherries and some soil. The palate is plump and fresh with solid tannic structure. I like the plum and jolly rancher flavors, and also the iron flavor on the finish. This is tightly-wound now, and I think it'll get better with years in the bottle. (89 pts.)

2007 Mas Martinet Priorat Menut - Spain, Catalunya, Priorat
Each time I taste this wine I'm impressed by the power, elegance, balance and price. For $20, it doesn't get much better than this. Fresh raspberry and smoke on the nose. The palate is full of fruit, highlighted by just the right amount of vanilla and oak. Delicious wine. (90 pts.)

2009 Château La Fleur Morange Mathilde - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion
This is my first 2009 Bordeaux, and I enjoyed it a lot. 100% old vine Merlot. The color is dark purple. The aromas show plums, tobacco and fresh tilled soil. The aromas point to Bordeaux, but the palate is full of California sunshine. Dark plums, vanilla coke and black cherries lead the way. The oak and smooth tannins add a creamy mouthfeel to this wine that I just find irresistable. It's drinking well now, but could use some time to mellow out a bit. (92 pts.)

2010 Domaine des Soulanes (Cathy et Daniel Laffite) Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes Kaya - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes
Lots of paint and spices on the nose. This is a really big wine that could use some time or a decant. There's an explosion of blueberry and blackberry fruit, along with some dusty tannins. (88 pts.)