Showing posts with label Douro reds. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Douro reds. Show all posts

Saturday, January 4, 2025

Douro reds for chilly times

I hope your 2025 is off to a great start, dear reader.

Winter is in full swing and here in the Mid-Atlantic we’re looking at the first real blast of cold air and snow on the way. So, if you’re not doing a dry January, it’s a great time to check out some warm, hearty reds.

Quinta de Roriz - Credit: Prats & Symington
This week, I want to highlight two delightful selections from the Douro region of Portugal. I’m a huge fan of Portuguese wine, culture, the food, the surf – pretty much everything. I’ve made three trips and there’s still so much to see. For example, I haven’t been to the Douro, but I love learning about this region through its exceptional wines. Port is king, and also great for the season, but it’s the dry reds that really keep me coming back.

2022 wasn’t easy for Douro viticulturists, as the Douro Valley dealt with extreme heat and drought in the run up to the vintage, stressing the vines and, I reckon, the growers and winemakers. But the resulting wines show vibrancy, liveliness, and the resilience of this ancient region.

Prats & Symington formed in 1999 as a family partnership between the Symington family and the Prats family of Bordeaux. Based at Quinta de Roriz, a heralded site has been producing estate wines since the late 18th Century, where the vines get classic schist soils and a mostly northerly orientation, yielding cooler nights and focused, bright wines.

The entry level Prazo de Roriz delivers a ton of value and offers a great place to start your exploration into Douro reds. Then we have the Post Scriptum, which is sourced from Prats & Symington’s Quinta de Roriz and Quinta da Pedri, and is aged in 400-liter barrels. Both are blends of traditional varieties like Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, and Tinta Roriz.

If you haven’t tried a wine from this producer before, I find them very reliable across vintages, and it helps that the wines are available in many markets.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2022 Prats and Symington Douro Prazo de Roriz - Portugal, Douro
SRP: $19
Bright purple color. The nose pops with blackberry compote, tangy plums, along with plenty of sage, tobacco, earth, anise, and ginger cookie tones, making for a delightfully spicy, fresh appeal. On the palate, I get plums, blackberries, tangy black currants, on a frame of structured but smooth tannins and crisp acidity. It’s all quite balanced and wrapped together nicely, with accents of iron, graphite, oregano, smoky earth, some dark chocolate tones. Such a good value, and a great wine with cold weather, hearty food, and good friends. A classic Douro blend at a great price. (90 points)

2022 Prats and Symington Douro Post Scriptum de Chryseia - Portugal, Douro
SRP: $32
Deep purple color. The aromas show a dark, complex host of plums, black currants, saucy black cherries, along with anise, earth, graphite, and tobacco. The palate sports solid tannins but they have a fine, dusty feel, and the acidity is vibrant, laying the foundation for dark, tangy fruit (black cherry, currant, fig paste). I love the complexities of anise, cocoa, tobacco, and clove. Lovely complexity and depth, and has cellar potential too, making for a great experience and value. A blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, and Tinta Roriz. (92 points)

Tuesday, November 8, 2022

Wine Reviews: Fresh Fall Values

With Halloween behind us, I’ve started seeing holiday decorations and displays going up in stores these past few days. But we still have plenty of fall left, and November is one of my favorite months. I’m looking forward to spending time in the mountains, cold nights, gathering with friends and family. But before we transition into the holiday season and crack open the Champagne and burly red wines, I have some offerings on the lighter side of the spectrum. And holiday travel, cooking, etc., can get expensive, so the selections this week all highlight value.

Vinho Verde brings to mind hot summer days with a plate of oysters (and that is certainly a great idea). But I’ve got some complex Vinho Verdes this week that offer more complexity and even some aging potential. No joke, I’d consider cellaring these two for a year or two and see what happens, as they have the depth and complexity to benefit from it.

If you’re looking to restock on some bright white wines and save some money, I’ve got two wines from Val de Vid, from Rueda in Spain. I also have two German samples I received from Wines of Germany. It was while living in Germany my senior year of high school that I had my first vineyard and wine appreciation experience, and I always keep some German wines on hand for holiday gatherings. And we round things out with a bright red blend from Portugal.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

Whites

2020 Richard Bocking Pinot Blanc - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
SRP: $20
Light yellow color. Spritely on the nose with chalk dust and floral perfume, basil and honeysuckle, over top of limes, green apple and kiwi. The palate is flinty and dry with vibrant acidity and a zesty, crystalline feel. The green apple and kiwi fruit is crunchy and precise with classic Mosel minerals and flinty undertones. Lots of floral and herbal complexity, too, this has a mountain stream quality to it, which is a ton of fun. (90 points)

2021 Quinta do Ameal Loureiro Vinho Verde - Portugal, Minho, Vinho Verde
SRP: $18
Light yellow color. Popping aromas of white peaches drizzled with lime, topped with daisies and dandelions, some honey and sliced celery as well. The palate shows zesty acidity and pleasant depth of texture, the balance between taut energy and some creaminess is pleasant. Peaches, lemons and limes, with salty, chalky, mineral tones, along with floral perfume and cut flower stems. Fresh, lively and fun, but the balance and complexity are legit. 100% Loureiro from estate-grown fruit. (89 points)

2021 Herdade do Esporão Vinho Verde Bico Amarelo - Portugal, Minho, Vinho Verde
SRP: $12
Juicy yellow color. Aromas of pineapple and lemon, along with some fresh mountain stream vibes, with yellow flowers, honeysuckle and some sliced cucumber. Delightful textural weight is balances by brisk acidity, and I love the flavors of tart lemon, kiwi and pineapple. Lots of flowers, but they’re nuanced and woven in well, never overpowering things. Pithy, spritely and complex, this is one of the more interesting Vinho Verde’s you may find. 40% Loureiro, 30% Alvarinho and 30% Avesso. (90 points)

2021 Val de Vid Rueda - Spain, Castilla y León, Rueda
SRP: $13
Medium yellow color. A meadow of wildflower goodness on the nose, with peaches and kiwi and clean laundry. Punchy and crisp on the palate with brisk acidity and flavors of papaya, peaches and lemon juice. Some waxy elements mix with tones of white pepper, oregano, basil, and the wine shows some salty, briny vibes as well. Lovely wine for salads and seafoods. 85% Verdejo from 25-year-old vines and 15% Viura from 50-year-old vines. (88 points)

2021 Val de Vid Verdejo Rueda - Spain, Castilla y León, Rueda
SRP: $14
Medium yellow color. Super bright on the nose, with a floral potpourri of white and yellow flowers and some basil, fresh cucumbers and honeysuckle, over top of peaches and papaya. Bright and zesty on the palate but nice texture, balanced well with roundness and freshness. Papaya, peach and orange peel fruit blends well with honey, basil, sliced green onion, chalk dust. Floral, fun, bright and versatile. All Verdejo from 25-30 year-old vines. (88 points)

Reds

2019 Ritual Pinot Noir - Chile, Casablanca Valley
SRP: $21
Deep ruby color. Bright and juicy on the nose with a nice mix of red apple peel, black cherry and wild raspberry, topped in notes of black pepper, rose hips and rhubarb. The palate shows fine-grained tannins and crisp acidity, over a bed of tangy cherry, red currant and pomegranate fruit. Notes of black pepper, charcoal, rose petals and rhubarb add complexity. Fresh and fun, spicy and floral, showing good complexity. Look, it’s rare I find a $20 Pinot I’d purchase and share with guests, but this is it. Aged 11 months in French oak. (89 points)

2019 August Kesseler Pinot Noir The Daily August
- Germany, Rheingau
SRP: $25
Medium ruby color. The nose is spicy and floral with rose hips, white pepper and tobacco, mixing well with tangy red apple and juicy raspberry fruit, some earthy, savory undertones. Fresh acidity and fine-grained tannins on the palate, a mix of deeper black cherry fruit with tart red apples, and there’s a lot of peppery, tobacco and sage vibes that make this fun and interesting. Fun and fresh, but nice depth of mouthfeel and complexity. I would love to mix this wine in blind at a pinot tasting and see what folks guess. (I bet it gets some love, too). (90 points)

2019 Quinta do Vesuvio Douro Comboio do Vesuvio Unoaked - Portugal, Douro
SRP: $22
Bright purple color. Nice tart dark fruit on the nose (black cherries and dark plums), along with a pleasant mix of smoky, gravelly earth, with violets and magic marker tones. Medium-bodied on the palate, dusty tannins with rounded edges, medium acidity. Tangy dark plums and black cherries, the fruit is accented with rocky earth, graphite, violets, some tar and pine tones. Everything’s woven together well, with a nice floral and spicy finish. A fresher take, and a great intro to Douro red blends at a solid price. (89 points)

Saturday, January 6, 2018

Value and Deliciousness in New Releases from Portugal

I’ve been tasting a lot of Portuguese wines lately, which I’m always happy to do. Per usual, I found a bunch of exciting wines, many of which provide absurd levels of quality for the price.

I’ll have a report up soon on some epic Ports and reliable Madeira wines, but in the meantime, this report features solely dry wines, rosés, a white, and a bunch of dry reds. The latter category shines in this report, with many delicious, structured, age-worthy reds coming in with reasonable prices. And if you’re holed up during a crazy cold snap like the one we’ve had here on the East Coast, these Portuguese reds would be a great idea!

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2014 Herdade Do Rocim Olho de Mocho Reserva - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
SRP: $30
Light yellow color. Aroma of rich apples, pears, but also lime zest, honeysuckle, honeycomb, some salted almonds. Creamy texture but lip-smacking acidity, with lemon curd, apricot, yellow pear. Zesty, chalky, lemon verbena, crusty mineral notes mix with olive oil and waxy elements. Fascinating and delicious, it evolves so much with air and time in the glass. Made from Antao Vaz grapes. (91 points)

SRP: $16
Ruby red grapefruit color. So floral and spicy on the nose with white pepper, oregano and rhubarb along with strawberries and red apple peels. Racy but juicy on the palate with wild strawberries, red apple and raspberry. Notes of roses, white pepper, sliced cucumbers, chalky notes. Spicy but fruity, juicy but so refreshing. Made from all Touriga Nacional. (88 points)

2016 Azores Wine Company Vulcânico Rosé - Portugal, Açores, Vinho Regional Açores
SRP: $25
Pale salmon color. Nose of lovely white peaches, red apples, white pepper, rosemary, rhubarb. On the palate, this acidity is so refreshing and spicy, but generous creaminess and plenty of fruit (raspberry, red apple peel, white peach, strawberry). Plenty of white pepper, rhubarb, rose petals, white tea. Delicious, gluggable stuff but impressive depth and complexity. 25% Saborinho, 25% Argonomica, 25% Aragonez, 25% Touriga Nacional. (89 points)

SRP: $20
Rich purple color. Aromas of violets, clove, charcoal on top of black currants and roasted figs. Full-bodied, solid tannic grip but velvety, too, and moderating acidity. The black cherry and crunchy dark plum fruit is mixed with a host of savory spices and herbs (clove, bay leaf, black pepper, sage) and notes of fallen leaves and graphite. Complex, structured, but elegant, too, and so good for the money. A blend of Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, and Tinta Barroca. (89 points)

2013 Adega Cooperativa de Borba Montes Claros Garrafeira - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo, Borba
SRP: $19
Light purple color. Aromas of tart black cherries, juicy blackberry am, along with spicy violets and clove potpourri, smoky earth, coffee, pepper and oak. Bold but suave on the palate (silky tannins, fresh acidity, lovely balance). Plenty of chewy plum and black cherry fruit, jammy but tart, too. Violets, eucalyptus, pepper, charcoal, vanilla, coffee. Plush but complex, fruit-tastic but earth and spicy as well. A blend of Trincadeira, Aragonez, Syrah and Touriga Nacional, aged 12 months in oak and chestnut barrels. (90 points)

2015 Herdade do Esporão Vinho Regional Alentejano Monte Velho - Portugal, Alentejano, Vinho Regional Alentejano
SRP: $9
Rich ruby color. Smells of spicy red and black berry compote, scorched earth, savory herbs and spices. Juicy but bright, fleshy tannins and fresh acidity make for a vibrant, balanced wine. Black cherries and blackberries mix well with smoky herbs, charcoal, vanilla, coffee, some underlying mineral and rocky elements. Nice depth but an accessible wine. A blend of Aragonez, Trincadeira, Touriga Nacional and Syrah. For the money, wow! (88 points)

2014 Esporão Alentejo Reserva - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
SRP: $28
Rich purple color. Aromas of cool black cherries, blackberries, violets, sweet coffee, dark chocolate shavings and cocoa. Nice grip to the tannins, medium acidity, with suave but chewy plums, black cherry and blackberry fruit, rich but nice tangy edge. Notes of cocoa, earth, spiced coffee, violets, coconut, black pepper. Shows depth and complexity to back up the delicious dark fruit, and I think this should improve nicely over the next 3-5 years. (89 points)

2015 Herdade da Malhadinha Nova Monte da Peceguina - Portugal, Alentejano, Vinho Regional Alentejano
SRP: $19
Deep ruby color. Smells of plush but tart blackberries and black currants, along with violet petals, coffee, eucalyptus and lavender. Push texture on the palate but well-built with tannins and fresh acidity. Black currants, roasted figs, surprisingly deep fruit, with complexities of olive, graphite, dark chocolate shavings, anise and vanilla. The second wine from the Soares’ family, this is surprisingly good for the price. A blend of Touriga Nacional, Syrah, Aragonez, Alicante Bouschet and Cabernet Sauvignon. (90 points)

2012 Casa de Mouraz Dão - Portugal, Beiras, Dão
SRP: $19
Light purple color. Aromas of spicy red and black currants, laced with smoky, meaty, leather notes, some cellar dust, olives and lots of earth. Medium+ bodied, smooth but structured tannins, medium-low acidity. Waves of tart black currants and cherries are tossed with pine resin, tobacco pipe, grilled peppered steak, coffee grounds and anise. Deep, complex, impressive, still time ahead. (90 points)

2015 Amareleza Vinhos Piteira Tinto de Talha - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
SRP: $23
Light purple color. On the nose, a huge burst of sweet plums, blueberry pancake syrup, cola and grape jelly. Medium-bodied, soft tannins, low acidity, this is packed with sweet, candied black and blue fruit and grape bubble gum and jam flavors. Some earth and sweet cola too. More than a bit out of whack and balance. Made from the Moreto grape. (78 points)

2014 Adega da Cartuxa Évora Cartuxa - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo, Évora
SRP: $25
Rich purple color. Rich currants and roasted figs, along with anise, espresso, mint, dark chocolate chips. Full-bodied on the palate, with solid grip but fresh acid and lovely balance. Crushed blackberries and suave black currants, the fruit is deep but tangy. Complex elements of freshly paved road, graphite, loamy earth, espresso, cedar and dark chocolate. Bold but stylish and pristine, and a long life ahead. (91 points) 

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Sunday, February 26, 2017

Wine Reviews: International Grab Bag

We’re back with another grab bag of wines from all over the world. This report features some bargain Riesling from Mosel, a killer South African Chardonnay, some inexpensive Mendoza goodness, some Portuguese reds, and a few interesting blends from Locations Wines. 

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted. 


2015 St. Urbans-Hof Wiltinger Riesling Alte Reben - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
SRP: $18
Pale yellow color. Explosive aromas of white peach, sliced limes, kiwi, with honeyed tea, chalk dust, river rocks. Creamy texture on the palate with bright acid, deep minerality. Orange peel, kiwi, lime, bright fruit but a rich honeyed sense too, backed up by saline, minerals, potpourri, ginger. Lots of depth but so zesty and fresh, especially impressive for the price. (89 points)


2014 Capensis Chardonnay - South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch
SRP: $80
Golden color. Gorgeous aromatics of sliced oranges, cantaloupe, lime, doused in sea salt, chalk, floral perfume and a hefty but nuanced dose of toasted nuts, oak and sliced ginger. Creamy and rich texture but the acidity keeps this wine precise and balanced. Rich orange and melon, drizzled with lime, the fruit is matched with notes of white flowers, honeycomb, lemon crème, and chalk dust. There is some pronounced oak in this wine (roasted peanut shell, chestnut, toasted bread), but if you’re OK with that, there is far more going on in this wine. Could age nicely but gorgeous now. A blend of vineyards in Stellenbosch, Overberg and Robertson, half the wine is aged in all new oak for 10 months. (93 points)


2014 Trivento Amado Sur - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $15
Bright purple color. Juicy dark plums, black cherry, cola, pipe tobacco, vanilla. Juicy, punchy texture with mild tannins, moderate acidity and fresh red and black pllum fruit. Notes of sweet cola, violets, mint and coffee. Earthy, spicy clove notes on the finish. Lots of fun but not simple, this would please many a palate. A near-term drinking blend of 79% Malbec, 11% Bonarda, 10% Syrah. (87 points)


2009 Quinta de Lemos Dão Dona Santana - Portugal, Beiras, Dão
SRP: $25
Vibrant purple color. Aromas of smoke, charcoal, scorched earth, some mushroom and anise on top of juicy black currant and plums. Full but quite fresh on the palate, sturdy tannins, dark plum and currant fruit, a juicy, complex but delicious wine. Such vibrant black currant and cherry fruit, maintains a tart edge, and it’s laced with mushroom, pepper, coffee, leather, clove. So much going on here, with a seriously complex finish. Good time ahead but delicious now. 60% Touriga Nacional, 20% Tinta Roriz, 10% Jaen, and 10% Alfroceiro varieties. (90 points)


2009 Margarida Cabaço Monte dos Cabaços - Portugal, Alentejano, Vinho Regional Alentejano
SRP: $21
Deep purple color. Smoky nose of charcoal, grilled herbs and raw tobacco on top of rich black cherry and dark plum, some clove and pepper sauce notes too. Full-bodied with some serious grip to the tannins, moderately fresh acidity, a chewy black cherry and currant fruit sense but stays fresh. Lots of undertones of earth, smoke, charcoal, black pepper and soy, with some magic marker, clove, grilled meat and cedar too. Wow, surprised at the depth, concentration and length of a wine at this price point, but the Alentejo delivers yet again! A blend of 45% Alicante Bouschet, 30% Touriga Nacional, 20% Aragonez and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. (89 points)


2013 Quinta dos Poços Douro Colheita - Portugal, Douro
SRP: $16
Vibrant ruby color. Aromas of vibrant red plums and currants, violets and roses, sweet sage, coffee, this is a warm winter kitchen of aromatic goodness. Medium-bodied, fresh acidity, a bright wine but solid grip from dry tannins. Tart red and some black currant fruit, lots of dark earth, coffee grounds, black tea, lots of potpourri spice and floral tones. Pretty but structured, could use a nice decant or a few years in the cellar. A blend of Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional. (88 points)


N.V. Locations P-4 - Portugal
SRP: $20
Deep purple color. Smells of rich plums, juicy blackberries, dark earth, charcoal smoke, topped in sweet vanilla coffee. Full and juicy with accessible, dusty tannins and some moderate acidity helps it move forward. Plum cake and blackberry jam, a rich but silky wine with charcoal, dark chocolate, black pepper and vanilla. Juicy, delish, crowd-pleasing style but multi-dimensional and long on the finish. A blend of Touriga Nacional, Trincadeira and Touriga Franca sourced from the northern Douro and Alentejo regions and aged in French and American oak. (88 points)


N.V. Locations F-5 - France
SRP: $19
Light copper color. A mix of sweet melon and strawberry jam aromas with a kick of white pepper and dandelion. Plump wine on the palate, almost honeyed texture but crisp acidity. White cherries and strawberry shortcake mix with rose petals, slight pepper, cut flower stems. Lots of fun but a good amount of complexity. 100% Grenache. (87 points)


N.V. Locations I-4 - Italy
SRP $19
Bright ruby color. Smells of juicy cherries, raspberries and dark plums, along with roasted hers, black tea, clove and rose petals. Full-bodied, some dusty tannic structure, moderate acidity. Juicy plums and roasted cherries, fresh fruit but dark and savory, too, with notes of mocha, clove, leather and topsoil. Quite complex and seriously delish at this price point (which seems to be the theme with this Locations wines). A blend of Negroamaro and Nero d’Avola from Puglia and Barbera from Piemonte (Alba) — definitely the first time I’ve had a Northern/Southern Italian blend like this. (88 points)


2015 Cusumano Nero d’Avola Terre Siciliane IGT - Italy, Sicily, Terre Siciliane IGT
SRP: $
Juicy ruby color. Smells of bright raspberries, red plums, smoked herbs, anise and black tea. On the palate this is a bright and juicy wine with easy tannins and fresh acidity to frame the red plum and cherry fruit. Spicy, earthy, with clove and anise, but also clean and floral. For 10 years or so, this wine has been a dependable Sicilian red for the price, and a no-brainer in terms of an inexpensive pizza wine. (87 points)


This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist

Saturday, April 23, 2016

Prime Time to Wade Into Portuguese Wines

How do you gather 50 of the best wines from a single country? It’s an impossible task, and the final selections will, in some sense, always be arbitrary. But several Master Sommeliers recently tasted through 600 samples from Portugal and whittled them down to the top 50. Wines of Portugal, a trade group promoting the country’s wines, then promotes a tasting event celebrating the top wines.

After blind-tasting some 600 Portuguese wines, Master Sommeliers Peter Granoff, Dennis Kelly, and Madeline Triffon chose a
list of the best. Master Somm Peter Granoff writes, “It is not the 50 Great wines, after all, but just 50 Great from a fascinating, dynamic wine-producing country.” And these wines represent a drop in the bucket considering Portugal boasts more than 200 native grape varieties and an expansive amount of soil types and terrain. But this list isn’t composed of prohibitively expensive bottles — some cost about $10-$15. 

Lauren Mowery, a fantastic NYC-based writer,
recapped the tasting in New York in this Village Voice article. I couldn’t attend the tasting, which was surely a master class in the diversity of Portuguese wines, but I did receive a few samples for review, which I’ve pasted below.

2011 Adega Cooperativa de Borba Borba Grande Reserva - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo, Borba
SRP: $32
Saucy purple color. Smells smoky and toasty, with vanilla coffee on top of black cherries and currant jam, some scorched earth and tobacco. Full-bodied, some refreshing acidity frames the medium-strength tannins, it all comes together quite nicely. Noticeable oak for sure (dark roast coffee, vanilla, campfire smoke) the fruit is juicy but stays fresh and crunchy (black currant, blueberry, black cherry). There’s a good amount of herbal tea, wet leaves, chewing tobacco and charcoal elements, which really come out on the finish, especially once this wine gets air. A split blend between Trincadeira and Alicante Bouschet. (88 points)


2013 Quinta da Sequeira Douro Ecos - Portugal, Douro
SRP: $12
Light purple color. Smells rustic (but in a good way) with campfire smoke and cigars to match the black red currant and black cherries. Medium bodied, smooth but moderately structured tannins, some refreshing acidity. The red and black cherries and currants and tart and crunchy but plenty of juicy ripeness. Elements of sweet tobacco, coffee and clove mix with a sense of dusty/earthy minerality. Really tasty and versatile stuff. A classic Douro blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, 25% Susao, 15% Tinta Roriz, 15% Tinta Barroca. For $12, are you kidding me? (87 points)

Sunday, November 15, 2015

In $15-$25 Range, Douro Reds Rule

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

In the $15-$25 range, does it get any better than Douro reds? Sure you can spend a lot more than that on some incredible red blends from this region. But if you’re looking for bang-for-your-buck wines, the quality of dry reds coming out of Portugal’s Douro region is consistently impressive.

These three wines were received as trade samples and tastes sighted:
  
$16
Bright and juicy with tangy red berries, some tobacco and pepper. Juicy and fresh on the palate with some nice grip from the tannins and tartness from the acid. Cherries and red currants, with some darker berry fruit, backed up by clove, pepper and a nice kick of minerals. Showing well now but could probably unwrap some more complexity over the next few years. (88 points)

2011 Quinta de la Rosa Douro - Portugal, Douro
SRP: $20
Deep purple color. Smells of black cherries, blackberry and raspberry jam, lots of earthy-charcoal notes along with some tobacco and roasted coffee. Full-bodied, tart acid, the fig, blackberry and blueberry fruit tastes crunchy but slightly roasted, like it was tossed on a charcoal pit for a minute. The fruit stays tart and fresh though despite the richness, and there’s a pleasant sense of pine forest and wet earth underneath. Quite good for the price, a solid autumnal bargain for sure. A cold weather sipper by itself or with rich stews. 40% Touriga Nacional, 30% Tinta Roriz and 30% Touriga Franca. (87 points)

SRP: $25
Deep purple color. Rich plums, tart black cherries on the nose, rich violets and coffee grounds. Medium-bodied, I like the tartness of the wine, balancing with fine yet firm tannins. Juicy black cherries, plums, tart blackberries, blend in some pencil shavings, loamy soil, mixed with deep floral tones. Dusty, some nice sweet herbal notes and roasted coffee. Full and bold, it gets so much livelier with air but can easily develop and calm down in the cellar. Mostly Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca. (88 points)

Thursday, April 23, 2015

Discover Bargains in Portugal's Indigenous Grapes

Portugal has long been a source of value-driven wines that offer refreshment and food pairing options galore. But Portuguese wines also frequently possess a unique regional signature  they remind you that you are drinking a wine that could come from nowhere else. 

What makes entry-level Portuguese wines so exciting to explore (perhaps more so than many similarly-priced wines from some New World regions) is the preponderance of indigenous grapes. Among the plethora of wine grapes grown in Portugal,
some 250-plus different varieties are native to the land. Loureiro, Baga, Touriga Nacional, you may never have heard of these grapes, but discovery is part of the fun.  

You can spend a lot on Port and the increasingly renowned dry reds of the Douro Valley, but there are tons of wines in the $10-$20 range worth seeking out.

I recently tasted through three Portuguese wines for part of a Twitter (#winechat) tasting with
Master Sommelier Devon Broglie. The tasting was sponsored by Whole Foods, which is selling these wines, among others, as part of a recent Portuguese wine promotion. These wines by no means comprise a snapshot of the best Portugal has to offer, but less than $20, you can get a whole lot of Portuguese goodness.

2013 João Portugal Ramos Vinho Verde "Lima" - Portugal, Minho, Vinho Verde
$10
Light gold color. Nose of honeysuckle, white peaches, green apple slices, also some slate and chalky aspects. Juicy and bouncy on the palate with crisp acid. Clean and bright, lots of grapefruit, green apple and white peach play well off a sense of chalk and crushed rocks. I like the tingling acidity, the nervy approach, and the seafood friendly appeal. Not profoundly complex but nice stuff. Made from 100% Loureiro. (86 points)


2011 Luis Pato Beira Atlântico "Colheita Seleccionada" - Portugal, Beiras, Beira Atlântico
$13
Bright ruby/cherry colored. Smells earthy and dusty, charcoal, anise and black pepper on top of bright black cherries and raspberries. Tart and bright on the palate with medium tannins and refreshing acid. A juicy, forward approach with black cherries and raspberries leading the way. I get smoky notes and some herbal kicks as well, backed up by earthy-dusty-charcoal aspects and sweet cola. Open, forward, fruity and fun but some elegance and earthy complexities. All stainless steel fermentation, aged two years in concrete tank, this is a blend of 70% Baga and 30% Touriga Nacional. (87 points)


2012 Quinta do Crasto Douro "Crasto" - Portugal, Douro
$17
Deep purple color. Juicy plums and blackberries on the nose, along with rocky soil, some lavender, roses and coffee. Medium but manageable tannins, a fine and dusty wine, medium acid. Bright and juicy plums all the way, pure and fun. Notes of loam, charcoal, coffee and anise. Moderate structure for near-term cellaring but good to drink now. Great intro to the Douro that is sure to wine over many a palate. Long, earthy, smoky finish. A blend of Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Barroca. (88 points)