Wines for Mother's Day and beyond

Credit: Halter Ranch

Mother’s Day is right around the corner and Summer is on the way, too. So, I wanted to share some bright and joy-giving selections I think would fit perfectly for this season.

I’ll start off with Halter Ranch, a California producer that came in hot on my radar, consistently providing deliciousness and excitement. From the Adelaida district of Paso Robles, which has been home to some of my personal favorite wines from the region. Their new 2023 rosés would be great Mother’s Day or Father’s Day gift, or to open at an upcoming party around such a date. Both of these wines are made from Grenache with a bit of Picpoul Blanc and Mourvedre. And with Summer coming up quickly, these wines (especially the sparkler) will be wise choices through all the coming heat.

If you’re looking for very high-quality Riesling, and like saving money, Smith-Madrone’s new release (the 2019) continues with their streak of excellence. It’s one of the best, not just from California, but from anywhere in the U.S. – my humble opinion, of course. It drinks great now since it’s been aged a bit, but don’t hesitate to lay some down for five to eight years, as this will improve in the long run.

If you are, know, or love someone from Texas, I’ve a wine for you this week, a fascinating blend from the Hill Country’s William Chris Vineyards. One of the cooler Texas white wines I’ve tasted, and one that makes me want to explore more wines from this appellation.

For grill-out or summer-friendly reds, I’ve got two fun options A delightful red blend from Cormorant Cellars, and some Santa Cruz Mountain fruit that I shared with friends and we all thoroughly enjoyed. Also, if you’re looking for quality but want a bargain, I have a nice Rioja Crianza for you that would be an easy multi-bottle purchase.

I hope everyone has some nice wines (like these) on deck for the last days of Spring. Please let me know in the comments what you’re drinking lately.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

White

2023 William Chris Vineyards Mary Ruth - USA, Texas, Texas Hill Country
SRP: $36
Light yellow color. Super floral and peachy on the nose, with all sorts of tropical flowers and dandelion, with lime, pineapple, white peach, even some chalk dust and notes of flint and perfume. Ripe but fresh on the palate, brisk but pleasant juiciness, with white peach and ruby red grapefruit dominating. Lots of herbs and white pepper, wildflowers, some stony, mineral vibes. Totally delicious and a lot more complex than I was expecting. A fun blend of 25% Malvasia Bianca, 22% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Muscat Canelli, 16% Muscat Blanc, 11% Semillon, and 6% Blanc du Bois. (90 points)

2019 Smith-Madrone Riesling - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $40

Medium yellow color. The nose is so vibrant and sings with these harmonies of white peach, lime, papaya, backed up with white flowers, honey, almond skin, and hints of white pepper and celery seed. On the palate, this is racy and tangy but sports significant depth, and the balance is on-point. The papaya, white peach, banana, and lime fruit blend well with elements of chalk dust, limestone, honey, sea salt, and these deep nuances that need years to develop. Beautiful to drink now (due to it’s later release), and this will age for so many years. Another win for Smith-Madrone team! (93 points)

Rosé

2023 Halter Ranch Rosé - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Adelaida District
SRP: $37
Beautiful watermelon color. The nose gushes with strawberries, raspberries, watermelon, along with salty, seashell tones, and plenty of breezy meadow, wildflowers, hay, and basil. Deep texture on the palate with brisk acidity and pure fruit flavors (strawberries, raspberries, white cherries). The non-fruit complexities really make this wine sing, and I get notes of mint, wildflowers, chalk dust, limestone, some green tea. Complex and rich but crushably delicious, too. (91 points)

2023 Halter Ranch Effervescent Rosé - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Adelaida District
SRP: $50
Pale rose color with a light spritz. The aromas sport tangy red cherries, red apple peel, wild raspberries, mixed with complex tones of dandelion, white pepper, celery seed, some orange zest in there as well. Crisp and punchy on the palate with zesty acidity, fine bubbles, and a nice textural depth. The flavors of crunchy red apples, raspberries, and cherries blend well with notes of minerals, talc, white pepper, dried roses. Pure fun but also packed with complexity. Crowd-pleasing and should be a hit with wine nerd crowds, too. Don’t let the twist cap fool you, this is good stuff. (91 points)

Red

2021 Cormorant Cellars Red Black Ridge Vineyard - USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains
SRP: $47
Vibrant deep purple on the nose. Aromas of saucy plums, tangy black cherries, with deep violets, leather, clove, spicy-herbal tones – a lot to unpack. So smooth and juicy on the palate, with vibrant acidity and suave tannins. An interesting mix of red currant, wild blueberry, and saucy black cherry fruit. A lot of complexities in terms of pepper, leather, earth, paprika, sage, but it stays so elevated and vibrant. I’d love to see this in five years, or give it a nice decant and let it sing. 73% Merlot, 24% Cab Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot from a dry-farmed, cool climate vineyard. (93 points)

2019 Bodegas Montecillo Rioja Crianza - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $14
Bright purple color. The nose sports ripe plum, tangy red currants, black cherry jam, supported by tobacco, leather, anise, and clove tones, and some cool graphite. Ripe and juicy on the palate with dusty-light tannins and fresh acidity. The fruit is saucy but tangy (red currants, red and black cherries) and mixed with nuances of earth, tobacco, charcoal, graphite, dried violet petals. Stays balanced and elegant, and shows a lot of complexity and class for a wine at this price point. (88 points)

Texas wines for turkey day

Texas wine has been growing and evolving for decades now, and, at least from my perspective, the quality across the board seems to have gotten higher and higher since I’ve been paying attention.

Reds are key here, and you’re likely to find some varietal or blended wines that include some classic Bordeaux varieties, Rhone grapes, and cool other grapes like Alicante Bouschet and Graciano.

If you’re looking to drink American this Thanksgiving weekend (and, hey, why not!), try Texas! But whites (especially Rhone grapes) can really excel here, too. Yes, some of these wines can be hard to find (depending on your market), but a lot of producers ship direct from their winery.

C.L. Butaud is a maverick winery that produces some super cool wines with a lot of flair and style. I’ve been stoked on all the wines I’ve tasted from this winery. For example, most of their wines are sold in black bottles, with black labels, and black type – which I just find hilarious and fun. I find the wines, however, to be serious, age-worthy, and impressive. Their Cease and Desist red blend would be a great wine for grilled meats, cool evenings, or to have at the card table with friends.

Credit: Texas Heritage Vineyard

I also recently attended a webinar hosted by Texas Heritage Vineyard in the Hill Country AVA and had the pleasure of tasting through three of their wines. The winery is owned by Billy Johnson, and his wife (Texas Gulf Coast native Susan Johnson) also works as co-winemaker. Houston native Tyler Buddemeyer takes the primary winemaking role. In 2015, the Johnsons planted their first vines, kicking off their dream of starting a family-run winery that honors Texas. Located in the Texas wine corridor of Fredericksburg, Texas, their production facility was finished in 2017. Today, they farm more than 12 acres of grapes like Alicante Bouschet, Malbec, Tannat, Tempranillo, and Viognier. They’re not even a decade in, and things seem to be running smoothly. I’ve tried one or two of their wines before this, but the trio included in this report is quite impressive.

If you’re getting together with family in Texas, why not pick up some local vino? And if you’ve never tried wine from the Lone Stare State, there hasn’t been a better time. I certainly hope to visit Texas Wine Country one day and dig in more myself.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2022 Texas Heritage Viognier Wildseed Farms Vineyard - USA, Texas, Texas Hill Country
SRP: $28
Light yellow color. For a Viognier, this just strikes me as a lot lighter than I was expecting – in a good way, as Viognier can get way too heavy for me. There’s juicy yellow apples, papaya, drizzled with lime, along with a lot of white and yellow flowers, some honey and chalk dust, too. The palate is ripe but lively and fresh with a pleasantly creamy, medium-bodied appeal. The flavors of yellow pears, white peaches, and yellow plums are delicious, and backed up with tones of floral perfume, celery seed, honey, white tea, and almond skin. A lot of fun, this is a balanced and tasty Viognier. Served blind, however, I would more likely guess Sauv Blanc than Viognier. (89 points)

2020 Texas Heritage Syrah Gotneaux Creek Vineyard - USA, Texas, Texas High Plains
SRP: $44
Medium ruby color. The nose has a cool mix of darker fruits as expected (black cherries, blueberries) with fresh raspberries, and the fruit has a lot of nice spicy elements – black pepper, black olive, some loamy soil, smashed rocks thrown in. The palate is medium-bodied and fresh, which hits the spot, and it sports dusty-fine tannins. Flavors of crunchy blueberries mix with red cherries and raspberries, backed up with notes of coffee, roasted herbs, roasted red pepper, along with some coffee grounds and dark chocolate shavings. Delightful now but should also improve – a fun, spicy, fresh Texas Syrah. (88 points)

2019 Texas Heritage Alicante Bouschet Estate - USA, Texas, Texas Hill Country
SRP: $48
Deep purple color. A dark purple color with a saucy nose of dark fruits (blackberries, blueberries, cassis) along with complex notes of pencil shavings, charcoal, tar, roasted red pepper, magic marker, all sorts of deep, spicy tones. The palate has serious grip, a medium-full body, and delightfully refreshing, which makes this concentrated wine refreshing. Flavors of blackberries, wild blueberries, and tart currant blend nicely with nuances of graphite, anise, cocoa, and coffee grounds. There’s lots of stony, dusty earth vibes and all sorts of peppery vibes on the finish. Varietally classic Alicante with a Texas twist. (90 points)

2021 C.L. Butaud Cease & Desist - USA, Texas, Texas High Plains
SRP: $48
Deep ruby color. A deep but vibrant aromatic display of juicy black cherries, saucy plums, along with a complex web of mesquite, spicy red pepper, cracked black pepper, beef jerky, and a lot of sage and other herbs. The palate is ripe and juicy with saucy black cherries, tart red and black currants, along with suave tannins and vibrant acidity. Things line up pretty well! The non-fruit flavors really pop here, with roasted red peppers, roasted chestnuts, black tea, and all sorts of savory herbs and spices. A ripe and sun-roasted wine but with a nuanced appeal. 73% Tempranillo, 20% Mourvèdre, 7% Grenache, aged in 60% new French oak. (90 points)

Wine reviews: International grab bag

I’m back this week with a handful of diverse and interesting wines from wildly different regions.

From the U.S., a value-driven Oregon Pinot offers a lot to like, and I revisit a Texas producer that plays by their own rules.

Sangiovese is such an absurdly versatile grape, and I have such respect for those winemakers in different Italian regions who have spent centuries dialing in the nuances. Tuscany has so many big-name (and expensive) regions, so I’m always looking for unique, terroir-driven expressions, and have enjoyed digging into the Montecucco region. Located between Morellino di Scansano and Brunello di Montalcino, on the slopes of Monte Amiata, this appellation is only a quarter of a century old. But these ancient sites produce wines of a vibrant, mineral-driven, bright-fruited focus, and show a nuanced interpretation of this grape. And the value is really impressive.

From Rioja Alta, the wines of Ramon Bilbao always deliver for me. Founded in 1924, their entry-level wine is a good introduction, but the Reserva and Gran Reserve featured this week are beautiful expressions of their region. Considering the complexity and age-worthy qualities in these two, the price tags are exciting.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted, except for the Montecucco wines, which were tasted single-blind.

2021 Trivento Malbec Reserve - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $11
Light purple color. The nose sports sweet, saucy plums and raspberry jam, with some light roast coffee, light pepper, along with some savory smoky and mesquite tones. The palate shows soft tannins and medium acidity, a fresh and fun appeal, with flavors of raspberry and plum jams. Saucy and fun with notes of cola and coffee. A solid value Malbec, and one the rare widely-available, grocery store wines that delivers a lot of personality and realness. (87 points)

2020 C.L. Butaud Cease & Desist - USA, Texas, Texas High Plains
SRP: $48
Deep ruby color. A yummy nose of jammy raspberries and sweet black cherries, backed up by complex notes of violets, clay, black tea, spicy herbs – it’s all so warm and inviting. The palate shows surprisingly crisp acidity, which is fantastic, backed up but suave tannins and juicy, tangy raspberries and black cherries, saucy plums. I love the spicy complexity, with these paprika, pepper, sage, dusty earth, charcoal. Fun but deep and complex, this blend of Cinsault, Counoise, Tempranillo, and Grenache. Definitely worth checking out if you’d like to explore some tasty Texas red blends. (90 points)

2021 Firesteed Pinot Noir - USA, Oregon
SRP: $17
Bright ruby color. Aromas jump with juicy cherries and strawberry jams, along with rhubarb pie, spiced tea, white pepper, and some herbal nuances. Medium-bodied, light tannins, moderate acidity, this has a friendly, balanced, appeal, and shows farmer’s market fruit in terms of crunchy red apples and tangy strawberries. Nuances of rhubarb, white pepper, earth, tobacco – it’s rare to find a Pinot of this personality and realness at this price point. Aged in French oak (15% new) and stainless steel. (88 points)

2017 Campogiovanni (San Felice) Brunello di Montalcino - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
SRP: $62
Light purple color. Such a complex and vibrant aromatic display, with tart currants, tangy plums, and raspberries, along with dusty earth, dried flowers, smoky earth, tobacco, and anise. The palate shows nice grip on the tannins but crisp acidity and a fresh appeal. Flavors of mulled cherries, cranberry relish, along with tar, pepper, earth, and plenty of savory mushroom, soy, dried flowers and minerals. Gorgeous complexity, with plenty of floral-earthy complexity on the finish. Refined already, but I’d love to see this in three to five years. (93+ points)

2018 Le Pianore Montecucco Rosso Tiniatus - Italy, Tuscany, Montecucco
SRP: $34
Deep ruby color. The aromas are vibrant and inviting with bright red cherries and raspberries, laced with savory herbs and spices, some earthy tones and minty, rocky vibes. The palate shows accessible, dusty tannins and lively acidity, with a fresh and juicy appeal. Tart red and black cherries and currants mix well with plenty of spices and savory notes (black pepper, dried roses, beef broth). Has an easy-drinking approach but plenty of complexity and nuance. Sangiovese with some Merlot, aged six months in a mix of stainless steel and French oak. (89 points)

2018 Peteglia Montecucco Sangiovese - Italy, Tuscany, Montecucco
SRP: $25

Ruby colored with a nose of tangy red fruits (raspberries and tart cherries), along with mesquite, warm clay, fresh mint, and some tar and tobacco tones – such a savory and fun wine to sniff. Dusty tannins, medium-plus acidity, with tangy cherry and red plum fruit. The mouthfeel is really balanced, and this wine is so expressive in its herbal and floral complexity, with notes of roses, incense, mulling spices. Pretty, integrated, this shows a lot of value and personality. Needs a big hearty meal and a crowd of loved ones. Great now but will keep the integration going in the cellar. 100% Sangiovese. (91 points)

2016 Tenuta L'Impostino Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva “Viandante” - Italy, Tuscany, Montecucco
SRP: $35
Vibrant ruby colored. Deep cherries and warm currant compote on the nose, complex and inviting with lovely notes of roasted red pepper, tobacco, sage, dried roses, violets, and potting soil. The palate shows solid but integrated tannic structure that balances wonderfully with mouthwatering acidity. Tangy currants and cherry jam mixed with mulling spices, chewing tobacco, clay and earth tones, and there’s this streak of dusty minerality that pervades the wine. Floral and spice rub complexities round out the finish – there’s a lot going on here. It’s in a pretty place now but has lots more to show. Aged two years in French oak barriques. (92 points)

2018 Poggio Stenti Montecucco Rosso Riserva “Tribulo” - Italy, Tuscany, Montecucco
SRP: $29
A bright ruby color. The nose sports chilled cherries and raspberries, spicy tobacco, with nuanced earth, fallen leaves, and clay, rose petals. The palate shows a juicy, fresh mix of raspberries and cherries on a frame of dusty tannins and crisp acidity. The fruit plays well off these savory tones of tar, leather, smoked meats, and these dried flowers and black pepper. Structured but nuanced, focused and clear, this will age well but is already friendly and accessible. Sangiovese and Cabernet – a lot of value in here, too. (90+ points)

2016 Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Rioja Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
SRP: $27
Light purple color. The nose exudes a deep sense of plum sauce, blackberries, and tart pomegranate, along with spiced berry tea, dried violets, sage and brushy, rocky, sun-roasted hillside vibes. Beautiful balance on the palate, with dusty tannins and crisp acidity, with a chewy but fresh feel, deep cherries, and strawberries. There are a lot of delicious nuances packed in there with the fruit as well: warm clay, garden soil, spicy herbs, with minty, dark chocolate, and smoky vibes. This is pretty stuff with a long life ahead. From 40-year-old vines aged 20 months in American oak. (91 points)

2014 Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Rioja Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
SRP: $37
Vibrant ruby color. A complex aromatic display of juicy raspberries, red cherries, with rhubarb, spiced tea, smoky earth and tar, charcoal and graphite vibes, and a nice floral potpourri thing going on, too. The palate has solid grip with fine-grained tannins, supporting ripe black cherries and raspberry jam. There’s a lovely blend of mulling spices, tobacco, spicy mint, warm clay, loamy earth, hints of oak. Stays fresh throughout, with all sorts of pretty nuances to coax out, and lingering minerality and floral tones on the finish. Ready to go now, but I’d bury a few and forget about them for five or six. From 60+ year-old vines, aged 30 months in American oak. (92+ points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

C.L. Butaud's Texas Wines

Today we’re taking a trip down the wine road less traveled  (at least by me) – Texas. I’m not going to make any broad generalizations about Texas, as it so huge and diverse and the tropes fall flat. I lived there for a year as a teenager, before I knew about wine, and have made somewhat frequent trips since. But I’ve yet to tour the Texas High Plains wine country and other areas, or dig deeply into producers across the state who have been laying the groundwork for decades now.

As an outsider, I’ve enjoyed a few of the Texas wines I’ve managed to find. But a proper trip is in order for me to get a better handle on things -- long drives, visiting with winemakers, walking through vineyards, and perhaps adding on some rock climbing or hunting. This is all making me nostalgic for Texas, and the wines from C.L. Butaud were a great reminder to keep up with wines from the Lone Star State.

Houston native Randy Hester kicked off his first Texas vintage in 2014, after working in the wine industry for years, including at Cakebread and with a host of renowned winemakers. They take a low sulfite approach, use some whole clusters in their fermentation, and produce wines with a unique spice and appeal. While these wines are very distinct, I was reminded of Arizona wines (with which I have much more experience) in the sense that, when tasting them I get this earthy nuance that makes me want to visit the land itself. To get my feet in the dirt and hands on the rocks.

This was my first time with this producer, and it won’t be my last. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2021 C.L. Butaud Pa Pa Frenchy Red - USA, Texas, Texas High Plains
SRP: $18
Vibrant ruby color. The nose is so alive, spicy, and inviting, with deep cherries, sweet raspberries, red plums, along with violets, cloves, mesquite, pepper, some leathery spice. On the palate, there’s a chewy feel with smooth tannins and surprisingly fresh acidity. The juicy strawberry and red plum fruit is fresh and crisp, backed with notes of rhubarb, cola, white pepper, leather, some smoked meats. There’s a lot in here to parse through, but it maintains such a fun, fresh, crushable appeal. Highly recommended if you like this style. A blend of West Texas Grenache with 20% Mourvedre and 20% Tempranillo, aged for 10 months in old French oak and stainless steel. Winemaker Randy Hester’s homage to his great-grandfather, it’s a fitting tribute and a delightful wine. (88 points)

2020 C.L. Butaud Tempranillo - USA, Texas, Texas High Plains
SRP: $54
Deep ruby color. The nose shows a deep mix of roasted plums and figs, warm clay, creosote, some sage, pepper – a lot of those higher elevation desert vibes are so evident in these aromas. The palate sports a chewy feel with smooth tannins and medium acidity, along with jammy red and black cherries and plums. Notes of toffee, cola, dark chocolate, spiced black tea and anise add complexity. Juicy and deep, give it air and pair with some barbecue, and this will work wonders. All Tempranillo, aged in new and used French oak and stainless steel. (89 points)

2021 C.L. Butaud Blanc de Noir - USA, Texas
SRP: $48
The palates copper color imaginable. The aromas pop with tons of flowers and dandelion, along with crunchy white cherries and red apple peel, and there are also these cool tobacco, mint, and sliced cucumber elements. The palate sports crunchy acidity on a medium-bodied, steely frame. Flavors of white cherries and tart green apple mix well with notes of white pepper, basil, and dandelion flowers. This is a ton of fun and has a lot of versatile pairing potential. A 50/50 blend of Grenache Noir and Mourvedre, whole cluster pressed and aged on the lees in stainless steel for five months. (90 points)

2021 C.L. Butaud Mourvèdre - USA, Texas, Texas High Plains
SRP: $30
Dark ruby color. The nose is spicy and jammy with a cool mix of raspberry, cranberry relish, with notes of bay leaf, pepper, warm clay, leather – lots going on. The palate shows a mix of chewy tannins and tangy acidity, with generous red plum, cherry and raspberry fruit. I love the vibrant rose tones, the white pepper, with notes of chewing tobacco and anise. This is really fun, crunchy, and spicy, but shows a depth of feel and a savory complexity that is really nice. From two vineyard sites, this includes 30% whole cluster, aged in stainless steel and used French oak. Mourdvedre fans should check this out if they can! (90 points) 

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.