Delicious Wines from Virginia's Monticello

Considering today is Independence Day in the United States, I thought it fitting to highlight some recent samples from the Commonwealth of Virginia.

I’ve been a big fan and follower of Virginia wine since I moved to Washington, DC, about 12 years ago. I’ve had the privilege to taste many wines from all over the Commonwealth, but this week I’m highlighting wines from the Monticello AVA. Carrying on Thomas Jefferson’s wine vision for this region, some 33 wineries call this area home. The region is centered around Charlottesville, stretching toward the gorgeous Blue Ridge Mountains. If you’re ever travelling in the Mid-Atlantic (one can dream of post-pandemic wines, can’t one?) and looking for a wine trail adventure, this is a great place to start.

Stinson Vineyards makes two super-reliable pink wines from Tannat and Mourvedre. I’ve been tasting these wines for years now, and Rachel Stinson’s 2019s are true to form – some of my favorite rosés from the Commonwealth. The three red blends stem from a webinar I attended on the French influence in Virginia wine, curated by a great Virginia wine writer and ambassador, Frank Morgan. Matthieu Finot of King Family, Damien Blanchon of Afton Mountain, and Benoit Pineau of Pollak are all Frenchmen doing exciting things in Virginia, and the state’s wine industry is lucky to have them.

These wines were all received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2019 Stinson Vineyards Tannat Rosé – USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $21
Light pink color. Aromas of peach, cantaloupe rind, white cherries, with chalk, sliced cucumber, white flowers and rose petals. Zippy and salty on the palate with punchy, tangy lemons, apricot, white peaches, Complex, pretty notes of mint, English cucumbers, chalk dust, lemon pith. Tangy, fresh finish with notes of talc, slate and minerals. Another great vintage of a perennially solid pink. (90 points)

2019 Stinson Vineyards Mourvèdre Rosé – USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $21
Medium strawberry color. Bouncy, boastful aromas of white peach, orange peel, with white and yellow flowers, white pepper, mint, sea salt – so inviting. Plump texture, delightful presence on the palate, with zippy acidity. Crisp but juicy fruit (yellow plums, white cherries, strawberries) with notes of mint, white pepper, sliced yellow bell pepper, white tea. There’s this rocky, mineral presence underneath. A phenomenal rosé at a crazy price. (91 points)

2017 Afton Mountain Vineyards Tradition – USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $50
Medium purple color. The nose shows tart blueberries, black currants, with graphite, smoky earth, eucalyptus and mint chocolate chips. Crisp on the palate with pleasantly bright acidity, moderate tannins, this is a vibrant, fresh style with tart currants and wild blueberries. Notes of graphite, cocoa, mesquite, roasted chestnut. A vibrant and exciting blend of 41% Merlot, 37% Petit Verdot, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged two years in 25% new French oak. (90 points)

2017 Pollak Vineyards Meritage ­ USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $40
Light purple color. Aromas show tart red and black currants, mixed with leather, cedar, menthol, and inviting notes of incense sticks and pepper. Full-bodied, medium acidity, smooth tannins, integrated nicely. Spicy red plum and cherry fruit, a zippy feel with notes of eucalyptus, mint, leather, roasted red pepper, roasted chestnut. Great to go now, but will hold well for a few years, too. 60% Cabernet Franc, 24% Merlot, 16% Petit Verdot. (87 points)

2017 King Family Vineyards Mountain Plains – USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $70
Medium purple color. Beautiful aromas of tangy cherries, plums, red and black currants, laced with complex notes of roasted herbs, clove, leather, vanilla and cocoa. Fresh and focused on the palate, this is well-built and solid with nice grip, but no harshness – the balance is lovely. Tangy currants, crunch plums, juicy wild cherries – generous fruit yet really fresh. Mixed with tobacco leaf, tilled soil, pine needles, clove, with integrated cocoa and cedar. Wow, this is expert Virginia Meritage that deserves a solid sleep in the cellar or a decant and a grilled steak. 43% Merlot, 37% Cabernet Franc, 20% Petit Verdot, aged in new French oak. (91 points)

2017 Stinson Vineyards Tannat – USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $36
Deep purple color. Aromas show deep currants and black cherries, with violets, tar, potting soil and graphite notes. Full-bodied with solid grip and moderate acidity – this is balanced really well. Tart black currants, roasted figs, plum, the fruit is juicy and tangy and laced with underlying graphite, tar, mineral, pine and cedar. The deep core of fruit blends so well with these earth, floral, spicy undertones. I’d love to see this in five years. All Tannat aged 27 months in 50% new French oak. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: Virginia New Releases

I love Virginia wine, and not just because I live in DC and spend a lot of time there. Virginia wine is such a dynamic scene that it’s grown hard to keep up with. But, I try.

In this report, I tasted a lot of 2018 rosés. It seems like almost everyone in Virginia made some pink wine in 2018, and that makes sense. It was a difficult, historically wet year, but I was surprised at the quality of some of these wines.

I also tasted through a few new releases from Stinson Vineyard, who continues to produce some of my favorite wines from Virginia.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2018 King Family Vineyards Crosé - USA, Virginia

SRP: $21

Watermelon color. Nose shows strawberries, white cherries, lots of nettle, wild herbs, raspberry leaf. Zippy and crisp on the palate, light in weight with bright acidity and subtle white cherry and strawberry fruit. Complex floral and spice tones (rose potpourri, wildflowers, basil, mint), with a nervy, mineral undercurrent. Lovely. An 11% alcohol rosé made from Merlot. (89 points)

2018 Tarara Winery Boneyard Wines Rosé - USA, Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County

SRP: $20

Deep copper color. Aromas of canned peaches and a lot of spicy/floral elements: tomato leaf, rose hips, magnolia, mint. Medium-bodied, juicy and fresh with slices peaches drizzled with lemon. Some white pepper and nettle, a bit of honey. This is fresh, simple and pleasant. 12.6% alcohol, 39% Cabernet Franc, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 13% Syrah, 9% Chardonnay, 4% Tannat. (85 points)

2018 Bluestone Vineyard Rosé - USA, Virginia, Shenandoah Valley

SRP: $20

Juicy watermelon color. Nose of peaches, apricot, honey pot, lots of sweet yellow flowers. Plump and juicy, slight sweetness, yet bright on the palate, some waxy texture but such fresh acidity. Peaches topped in clover, honeysuckle, cotton candy and sea salt notes. I like the textural dynamics here. Fun, tasty, gluggable yet interesting stuff. 50% Chambourcin, 50% Bordeaux varieties. (86 points)

2018 Williamsburg Winery Wessex Hundred Rosé - USA, Virginia

SRP: $16

Deep copper color. A potpourri of white cherries, white pepper, potpourri, spicy dandelion. Medium-bodied, high acidity, a brisk and steely style with white cherries and tart red apples. Notes of potpourri and baby’s breath. Fun and fresh. Based on Cabernet Franc. (85 points)

2018 Rosemont Rosé - USA, Virginia

SRP: $19

Bright pink color. Nose bursts with peaches and strawberries with yellow flowers, nettle, cucumber slices. Pleasantly plump on the palate yet crisp and fresh. Loaded with peaches, watermelon, strawberries, juicy yet tangy fruit. Notes of white tea, honey, mint, a chalky/mineral undertone. Really impressive stuff. I’m skeptical of Chambourcin, but this 100% Chambourcin rose has me pleased and intrigued me over the years. (89 points)

2018 Stinson Vineyards Tannat Rosé - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello

SRP: $21

Bright pink color. Gorgeous nose: lots of roses, daisies, dandelion, hay, with watermelon, cherries, peaches, guava. On the palate, this shows deep texture, bright acidity, crisp but punchy fruit — watermelon cherries, raspberries, McIntosh apples. The fruit is balanced out with wildflowers, sea salt, crushed chalk and mint notes. A tingling, exquisite finish. A gem of a Virginia rose, and an outrageous bargain. (91 points)

2017 Stinson Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello

SRP: $23

Light yellow colored. Nose shows lemon and lime, along with a really cool blend of floral and green tones (like honeysuckle and sliced cucumber). Crisp acidity on the palate, smooth and juicy and salty, with flavors of guava, peach and lemon. There’s an interesting mix of chalk dust, white tea, green onion tones, but no one element dominates, which I find really refreshing. Fermented in concrete and stainless steel. (89 points)

2015 Stinson Vineyards Meritage - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello

SRP: $32

Dark ruby colored. The nose shows a complex host of spicy elements (pepper, paprika, anise, bay leaf with earth and coffee tones on top of black cherries. Full but fresh on the palate, smooth yet structured with medium tannins and crisp acidity. Tangy dark plums, red and black currants and cherries, the fruit is crunchy and fresh and mixed well with elements of leather, anise, bell pepper, bay leaf, coffee. Spicy, fresh, earthy, complex, this is very pretty stuff that deserves a good decant or some time in the cellar. 43% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Franc, 21% Petit Verdot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged 20 months in French oak, 35% new. (90 points) 

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Wine Reviews: California New Releases

As the year wraps up and 2019 begins, I have one last round-up of new releases from California.

This week, I have another batch from Lake County stalwart producer Jed Steele. I’ve said it before (a bunch of times), and I’ll say it again: some of these wines are so damned good for the money.

I also tasted two vintages of Calla Lily’s Audax Napa Cabernet. The fruit is sourced from a vineyard, first planted in 1995, on the eastern side of Howell Mountain. The vineyard is planted to mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, with some Petite Sirah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petite Verdot. They’re big and bold, but I found them vibrant and quite balanced as well.

In this report, I cover the newest vintages of Chalk Hill’s Chardonnay, Louis Martini’s Monte Rosso Vineyard Cabernet, and some new (to me) red wines from Joseph Stephens, a winery in the Santa Clara Valley owned by the Silicon Valley Wine Company.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2017 Eberle Chardonnay Estate - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

SRP: $24

Medium yellow color. Nose shows bruised apples, glazed pear, topped in cinnamon, honey, almond and sea salt. Crisp acidity frames the wine nicely, while plump texture holds up the rich apple and apricot fruit. Notes of salted almond, graham cracker, sea salt and honeycomb. Rich but still lively. Half stainless steel, half of the wine spends time in 25% new French oak. (87 points)

2016 Chalk Hill Chardonnay - California, Sonoma County, Chalk Hill

SRP: $42

Light gold color. On the nose, I get a combination of rich honey, cinnamon, pecans, along with lemon, white flowers and sea salt. Full texture but medium acidity, creamy but crisp, with all sorts of apples, apricots, lemons. Complex notes of sea shells, salted almond, white flowers, and the deeper notes of honeycomb and toasted marshmallow are woven in well. Rich mouthfeel, lots of textural depth, but also maintains an inviting freshness. Full maloactic fermentation and 11 months in 40% new French oak. (90 points)

2017 Steele Wines Pinot Blanc - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County

SRP: $20

Pale straw color. On the nose: peachy! Lots of juicy green melons, lemon curd as well, some orange blossom and clover. On the palate, precise acidity, this is juicy and fun with some nice textural depth, and flavors of green melon, key lime and lemon curd. Notes of orange blossom, perfume, new tennis ball, honeysuckle. This is sourced from Bien Nacido Vineyard, spends six months in old French oak, and is a fascinating and delicious wine, especially for the price. (89 points) 

2016 Steele Wines Shooting Star Cabernet Sauvignon - California, North Coast, Lake County

SRP: $16

Bright purple color. Nose shows tart red and black currants and cherries with a smoky, minty, earthy element. Full but velvety on the palate, medium acidity, a bright and crunchy core of currants and plums. Notes of herbs, spiced coffee mix in nicely. Tangy and earthy finish. It’s hard to find California Cabernet of this quality at this price point. (87 points)

2016 Eberle Cabernet Sauvignon Vineyard Selection - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

SRP: $25

Rich purple color. Dark and juicy on the nose with sweet plums, currant jam, smoky charcoal and root beer notes. Medium/full-bodied with soft tannins, moderate acidity, and a chewy texture. Plums and currants and black cherries, ripe and jammy fruit, this is a forward, fun, fan-friendly wine with notes of cola, chocolate and vanilla. 100% Cabernet. (85 points)

2014 Louis M. Martini Cabernet Sauvignon Monte Rosso Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley

SRP: $85

Lively purple color. Beautiful nose of tangy red and black currants, sweet plums, lots of roses, violets, dusty earth, sweet cocoa, cedar – really gorgeous and complex on the nose. This wine is full and juicy but the acidity is lively and crisp, my mouth waters but the tannins provide serious grip. Tangy red and black currants and plums, really pretty, deep fruit, laced with complex elements of eucalyptus, dusty earth, clay, violets, with cocoa and espresso. Lovely now but shows lots of complexity and aging potential. All Cabernet Sauvignon aged 26 months in French and American oak. (91 points)

2014 Arrowood Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley

SRP: $35

Light purple color. Nose show juicy black cherries, plums, kirsch, along with sweet coffee, roasted herbs, vanilla and anise. Full-bodied with a plummy, ripe, juicy feel and velvety tannins, medium-low acidity. Plums and candied black cherries mix with coconut, anise, sweet vanilla coffee and some roasted earth notes. Forward, ripe, fun, crowd-pleasing stuff. Includes 16% Merlot and 4% Malbec aged 24 months in French and American oak. (88 points)

2013 Calla Lily Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Audax - California, Napa Valley

SRP: $120

Deep purple color. Nose shows tart black currant, juicy blackberries (gorgeous depth of fruit), with complex notes of mint, scorched earth, cocoa nibs, violets, deep but vibrant scents in here. Full but not heavy (14.5% alcohol), held together with sturdy tannins and surprisingly fresh acidity. Deep, concentrated but tangy black currants and dark plums, the fruit is juicy but really vibrant, and laced with a nice mix of earth, mint, dark chocolate and cedar. Fresh enough to be enjoyed now, but strength for the cellar, surely. (93 points)

2014 Calla Lily Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Audax - California, Napa Valley

SRP: $120

Deep purple color. Concentrated fruit on the nose (black currant, blackberries and blueberries), with deep violets, spiced black tea, earth, cocoa and mint. Full-bodied, a bit more powerful in its presence than the 2013, but still vibrant acidity, and the tannins are sturdy but show rounded edges. Pretty depth of fruit (currants, blackberries, plums), but it’s still nice and fresh. Notes of anise, cocoa, earth, mint and cedar. Plush and forward but lively. This could use five to eight years in the cellar, but it’s a lovely wine. 14.7% alcohol. (93 points)

2013 Freemark Abbey Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford - California, Napa Valley, Rutherford

SRP: $70

Deep purple color. Rich purple color, with dark, concentrated blueberry, black cherry, along with anise, eucalyptus, dark chocolate, cocoa and earth. Full-bodied, significant tannins but it maintains a velvety feel, medium-low acidity. A dark, saucy style with blueberries, cassis, blackberries, along with notes of mint, eucalyptus, sweet cocoa, cedar. Rich and delicious but the balance lines up nicely here. Hedonistic now, but this could do some fun things over the next five years. Includes Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, aged 28 months in 67% new French oak. (90 points)

2014 Bootleg Wine Works Red - California, Napa Valley

SRP: $38

Medium purple color. Heck of a lot of plums and blackberries on the nose, with roasted fig, smoky charcoal, vanilla and mint. Full-bodied on the palate, this wine is all about the velvety mouthfeel, medium-low acidity, along with juicy plums, black cherries, blueberries, juicy and plump. Notes of mocha, scorched earth, vanilla, roasted chestnut. Big and hedonistic but well-made and undeniably yummy. A blend of Syrah, Merlot, Petite Sirah, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 18 months in French and American oak. (89 points)

2014 Jason Stephens Winery Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Central Coast, Santa Clara Valley

SRP: $34

Light purple color. Aromas of spice tea, anise and cocoa underneath currant jam, cherry compote, with tobacco and magic marker notes. Full but plush, chewy yet moderating acidity. Plums and currant compote laced with chai, clove, sweet coffee, anise and cedar. Bold but vibrant, cool stuff from Santa Clara! Includes 10% Merlot, 6% Malbec, 6% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc, aged 30 months in 25% new American oak. (88 points)

2014 Jason Stephens Winery Meritage - California, Central Coast, Santa Clara Valley

SRP: $34

Rich purple color. Aromas of saucy black cherries, dark plums, with a mix of floral potpourri, sweet cocoa, roasted and candied nuts. Full but suave on the palate with rich, plush tannins and medium/low acidity. Plummy, saucy black fruit mixed with cocoa, coffee, sweet pipe tobacco and herbs. Lovely, juicy, rich but accessible. 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot, 10% Malbec, 10% Carmenere, 10% Cabernet Franc, aged 36 months in oak. (88 points)

2014 Jason Stephens Winery Merlot - California, Central Coast, Santa Clara Valley

SRP: $24

Light purple color. Gushing nose of plums, black and red cherries, along with cinnamon, sweet herbs and vanilla. Full but smooth on the palate, velvety tannins, moderate acidity, and plenty of currants, plums, raspberry jam, backed up with anise, violets, vanilla. Juicy and suave fruit but a liveliness pervades the wine, too. Includes 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Malbec, aged 36 month in 25% new oak. (88 points)

2016 French Bar Petite Sirah - California

SRP: $16

Bright purple color. Nose shows sweet cherries, boysenberry, with cola and black pepper glaze. Full and juicy on the palate with fleshy tannins and medium acidity. Flavors of baked figs, plum cake, tart currants, mixed with coffee and cola. Fun, approachable style. Includes 5% Teroldego and 2% Petite Verdot, aged eight months in French oak. (85 points)

2016 Steele Wines Shooting Star Zinfandel - California, North Coast, Lake County

SRP: $14

Dark ruby color. Aromas of plump plums, raspberries, juicy cherries, with roses, rhubarb and tobacco notes. Full-bodied but really vibrant, the acidity sings, and the tannins and smooth and velvety tannins. Lots of juicy, ripe but vibrant red berry fruit mixed in with tobacco, cocoa, mint and rose petals. Loving this ripe but crisp feel. Aged eight months in 20% new American and Hungarian oak. (87 points)

2016 Steele Wines Zinfandel Writer's Block - California, North Coast, Lake County

SRP: $18

Bright purple color. Juicy and plummy on the nose with raspberries and black cherries, topped in spicy tobacco, black pepper, roses, rhubarb. Juicy and approachable on the palate with light tannins and fresh acidity, and a nice mix of tangy raspberries, plums and black cherries. Smoky, tar, tobacco and floral tones mixed in nicely. Vibrant and fresh but fruity and fun. Aged 12 months in 15% new oak. (87 points)

2015 Markus Wine Co. Domo - California, Central Valley, Lodi

SRP: $39

Bright ruby color. Lovely aromas of spiced black tea, anise, violets and earth over tart red currants and raspberries. On the palate, this is crisp and vibrant, medium-bodied, with velvety tannins, but packed with flavor. Plummy with raspberries and black cherries, topped in complex notes of anise, cocoa, violets, pepper, earth. Deep mineral notes. complex yet deep and bright. This is gorgeous. Carignan, Petite Sirah and Syrah. (92 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Wine Reviews: California Bordeaux Reds

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Yes, California Cabernet is king, but this report includes some solid examples of Merlot, Malbec and Bordeaux varietal blends. Actually, a Malbec in this report blew me away with its awesomeness. 

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted single-blind.

2013 Scotto Family Wines 50 Harvests Meritage - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $50
Gorgeous purple color. Dark and bold on the nose with black cherries, cassis and dark plums, topped in earth, graphite, charcoal and elements of cedar shavings. Full-bodied, this wine boasts firm tannins and some moderate acid, the wine is big but maintains a good level of balance. The dark berry and plum fruit is rich but tastes pure and lively. Beautiful secondary elements of charcoal, pencil shavings, spiced coffee, anise and vanilla. Chewy but not too heavy, a beautiful wine that should age nicely over the next ten years. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot and 12% Cabernet Franc aged 20 months in French oak. (89 points)

2013 Mount Veeder Winery Reserve - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $100
Vibrant purple color. Very pretty aromas of sweet plums, red and black currants, rich violets, earth, tobacco, mint and cedar. Full-bodied with some sturdy but velvety tannins and a good dose of acidity for balance. Flavors of roasted chestnut, espresso and dark chocolate and drizzled on top of plum, dark currant and juicy blackberries — the fruit is pure and vibrant. A bold, dominant wine but it’s put together wonderfully and has plenty to unveil after years in the cellar. A blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 2% Malbec, aged 20 months in 100% new French oak barrels. (92 points)

2013 Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville - California, Napa Valley, Oakville SRP: $55
Deep purple color. Nose: deep black currant, roasted figs, rich plums, with smoky charcoal, vanilla and cedar. Full-bodied on the palate, velvety texture but structured tannins, a surprising shot of tang from the acid. Black currant, blackberry, juicy plums, roasted fig — the fruit is chewy but seductive. Notes of vanilla, charcoal, espresso and lots of dark chocolate abound. Some earthy-leafy notes too. A few years of sleeping in the bottle will help, but it’s a relatively approachable style of young Napa Cab. All To Kalon fruit (81% Cab, with some Cab Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot) aged 22 months in about ¾ new French oak. (90 points)

2013 Robert Mondavi Winery BDX - California, Napa Valley, Oakville
SRP: $65
Deep purple. Rich concentration on the nose, with black cherries, deep plums, blackberry compote, and then tobacco, mocha, eucalyptus and vanilla. Full-bodied with bold but velvety tannins, there’s a firm structure to the wine while some medium acidity helps it stay focused. Gushing black cherry, cassis, dark plum fruit with solid concentration. Notes of smoky oak and vanilla, but it doesn’t dominate, and I get notes of loamy soil, charcoal, grilled herbs and coffee. This will definitely improve with a few years in the cellar, as it shows serious concentration. . Cabernet Sauvignon with 32% Cab Franc, about 80% of which comes from the To Kalon Vineyard. (90 points)
 

Chris Carpenter does it again. Wow.

2012 Mt. Brave Malbec - California, Napa Valley, Mt. Veeder
SRP: $80
Dark purple color. What a lovely nose! I get deep currants and plums, rich but elegant fruit, and a medley of cedar, leaves, violets, eucalyptus and clove. Such structure on the palate, firm tannins but moderate-plus acidity keeps the wine vibrant and holds it together nicely. The black cherry and currant fruit is so pure and silky but quite concentrated. I also get fallen leaves, deep flowers, black tea, charcoal and pencil shavings. The mocha and vanilla elements are matched by minerals and earth, and it combines in an overall beautiful package. Long-lived but boldly beautiful now. Perhaps the greatest California Malbec I’ve ever tasted. Aged 19 months in about 65% new French oak. (94 points)

2012 Mt. Brave Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Napa Valley, Mt. Veeder
SRP: $75
Deep purple color. Gorgeous aromatics, but they take a lot of time to open up. Dark currants, black cherries, lots of wet leaves, mossy earth, tobacco, eucalyptus, black tea, cedar and pencil shavings. Bold and so structured on the palate with firm tannins and moderate acidity that holds the wine together. Black cherries, dark currants, the fruit is dense but stays elegant. Pure, vibrant and enticing with its complexity of cedar, earth, tar, tobacco, eucalyptus and coffee grounds. Long and exquisite, gorgeous now but this has serious structure for five to twelve years of aging, easily. Includes a combined 12% Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec, the wine is aged 19 months in about 80% new French oak. (93 points)

2013 Gainey Merlot - California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
SRP: $24
Rich purple color. Deep but lovely on the nose, with juicy plums, rich black cherries, the fruit smells so pure and it’s topped with loamy soil, sweet eucalyptus and vanilla. Full-bodied, medium acidity, structured tannins but they’re smoothed out around the edges. The black cherry, dark plum and blackberry fruit, rich and chewy but stays fresh. Dark roast coffee, graphite, loamy soil and eucalypts on the palate, accented with well-knit elements of vanilla and toast. A juicy, plush and downright delicious wine. From Gainey’s Home Ranch Vineyard, this includes 4% Cabernet Franc and is aged 15 months in 20% new French oak. (89 points)

2013 Matanzas Creek Winery Merlot - California, Sonoma County
SRP: $28
Juicy purple color. Cool blackberry and blueberry with some juicy cherry fruit as well. Notes of earth and violets mix with some milk chocolate and cherry wood. Med-full-bodied with some smooth but moderate tannins — a nice tanginess from the acidity. Blueberry, black cherry and plum fruit, which is ripe and juicy but not candied or dense. Floral, potting soil and coffee elements blend nicely with the toast and vanilla. Fan-friendly stuff with broad appeal but it’s put together very nicely. (87 points)

2013 Kendall-Jackson Cabernet Sauvignon Jackson Estate - California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley SRP: $38
Deep purple color. Aromas of spicy tobacco, pine needles and pepper accentuate the plush currant and black cherry fruit. Full but fleshy on the palate, very nice balanced between tannins and acidity. Juicy black cherries and cassis mix with quite balanced elements of cedar, coffee, vanilla and a bit of loamy soil and pepper to finish it all off. A velvety, pleasant style but it opens up a lot in the glass and will likely do more over the next few years. Includes a combined 6% Malbec, Petit Verdot, Cab Franc and Merlot, aged 19 months in a mix of new and used French and American oak. (88 points)

2013 Tom Gore Vineyards Field Blend - California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley
SRP: $40
Deep purple color. The nose is deep and lush with currants and plums, the fruit is rich but shows a tart edge, and I get notes of cedar, spicy tobacco and eucalyptus. Solid structure on the palate, nice grip to the tannins, medium acid. Tart black currant and black cherry fruit topped with smoke, cedar and eucalyptus. Significant structure but still vibrant, and it gets better with air. A blend of Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Tempranillo and Carignan aged 20 months in oak. (87 points)

2013 Frei Brothers Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve - California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley SRP: $27
Medium purple color. Juicy currants plums and cherries on the nose, along with loam, rose petals, mint and coffee. Generous on the palate, but shows some vibrancy, with smooth tannins and medium acidity. Cedar, vanilla and cola mix well with the black cherry ice cream and juicy currant fruit. Fun, tasty stuff but shows a good amount of depth for a wine in this price point. Includes 8% Petite Sirah and 1% Merlot aged in 1/3 new oak (mostly American with about 25% French oak) for 16 months. (87 points)

2013 Tom Gore Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - California
SRP: $15
Dark ruby color. Juicy and jammy on the palate with blueberry jam and black cherry ice cream, but there’s a good amount of spice and earth mixed in as well. A juicy, chewy and straight-up delicious wine with soft tannins and mild acidity. The fruit is packed in there (blueberry jam, black cherry ice cream, roasted fig), but some charcoal and pepper elements add other elements. Sweet coffee, vanilla and coconut linger long onto the finish. Uncomplicated but highly delicious. Includes a combined 10% Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Petite Sirah. (86 points) 

<85 points 2013 Liberated Wine Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Sonoma County
SRP: $20
Vibrant purple color. Smells of candied cherries, plum sauce and raspberry jam. Full-bodied (14.5% alcohol) with soft tannins and medium-low acidity. Jammy raspberries, cherries and raisin cake flavors mix with mocha, vanilla and coffee. Fun, simple, crowd-pleasing stuff. Includes 15% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc, this spends 12 months in French and American oak.

2014 Mirassou Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - California
SRP: $12
Light purple color. Bursting sweet aromas of red licorice, raspberry jam, chocolate-covered cherries and vanilla cola. Medium-bodied, light tannins, medium-low acidity, a chewy and candied style of wine. Tastes like raspberry jam and milk chocolate candies filled with liquid cherry candy, and notes of vanilla and toast. A sweet, candied style if you’re looking for that style.

2016 Virginia Governor's Cup Winners Prove VA Wine is Legit

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

I’ve been tasting the best of the Virginia Governor’s Cup wines for a few years now, and the 2016 winners are the best bunch yet. This year, judges winnowed their top 12 from about 430 bottles for the Virginia Governor’s Cup Case.

The current batch of winners provides a great way to explore what is happening in this dynamic wine-producing state. While some of my favorite producers do not submit wines for the competition (Linden, RdV), there are plenty of intriguing and delicious Virginia wines deserving of recognition.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2014 Michael Shaps Petit Manseng Honah Lee - Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello

For my palate, this is the cream of the crop.

SRP: $30
A vibrant gold color in the glass. The aromas in this wine are rocking my face off: lemon curd, candied orange peel, honeyed tea, and a salty meets floral combination that I love. A bold texture the palate (14.6% alcohol) but the acid screams across the palate and keeps this wine precise and vibrant. Orange marmalade meets lemon curd meets white peach, and then there are these complex elements of apricot jam, honeycomb, creamsicle, not to mention the crunchy sea salt and floral perfume notes. So complex, so balanced, an absolutely delicious and fascinating wine, and one of my favorite wines from Virginia. Fermented in 1/3 new French oak barrels, no maloactic fermentation. (91 points)

2014 Horton Vineyards Petit Manseng - Virginia, Central Virginia, Orange County
SRP: $25
Light gold color. Smells of chunky mango and pineapple, but also some bright honeysuckle, dandelion and a hint of waxy nuttiness. Medium-plus-bodied this is a chunky, almost chewy wine in terms of mouthfeel, but the acids sweeps in and cleans the wine up (love this about Petit Manseng). Rich flavors of peach, pineapple and melon, topped with honey, orange marmalade, spiced tea and mint flavors. Complex, straight delicious, but also vibrant and clean. Long, rich, yet crisp finish with flavors that remind me of Sweet Tarts. Another great example of why I continue to be thrilled about Virginia Petit Manseng. (88 points)

2014 Bluestone Vineyard Chardonnay Estate Grown - Virginia, Shenandoah Valley
SRP: $24
Pale lemon color. Bright and lively aromatics with lemon curd, orange peel and limes accented with richer elements of honeysuckle and graham cracker. Medium-bodied with a round and creamy texture but crisp acidity for balance. Lemon meringue blends with papaya and pineapple in this juicy display, and notes of nougat and honeyed white tea round it out. Fermented and aged in French oak (20% new) with maloactic fermentation. (87 points)

2014 Barboursville Vineyards Vermentino Reserve - Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $22
Light straw color. Bursts with aromas of white peach, green apples and lime zest, lots of floral and sea salt aromas mixed in as well, is a bright and breezy but interesting aromatic display. Medium-bodied at 13% alcohol, this has refreshing acidity but a generous mouthfeel (slightly creamy, slightly waxy). Flavors of white peach, green melon and lime zest combine with elements of white tea, honeysuckle, raw almond and crusty sea salt. This is a delicious but seriously intriguing white wine. Served blind, this would excite and confuse many a wine nerd with its complexity and diversity of elements. Worth seeking out for the adventurous white wine drinker. All stainless steel with lees stirring over the course of eight months. (88 points)

2014 Cardinal Point Cabernet Franc Clay Hill - Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $30

Deep ruby color. Smells of spicy tobacco, clove, sage and red pepper on top of red and black currants and tart plums. Medium-plus body, solid tannic backbone but a fine edge and medium-plus acidity. Cool red currant and plum fruit is rounded out with pepper, sage, loam and leaves. Dose of vanilla cola and sweet coffee, too. A silky, rounded wine despite the strong structure. Aged one year in American and French oak (25% new). (88 points)

2012 Fabbioli Cellars Cabernet Franc Reserve - Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County
SRP: $35
Deep ruby color. Juicy, slightly jammy red fruit on the nose along with sweet roses and strawberry-rhubarb pie. Medium-bodied with lots of structure here and fresh acidity, giving this wine a lighter feel at 12.5% alcohol. Tart red and black currants play off of juicy black cherries, and I get a range of woodsy and earthy tones, along with clove and vanilla. Good concentration and length, this will improve in the cellar. Structured but tart and vibrant throughout. Aged 12 months in mostly new Hungarian oak. (87 points)

2014 Keswick Vineyards Cabernet Franc Estate Reserve - Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $50
Vibrant purple color. Aromas of black cherries, juicy blackberries, the fruit is ripe but tart, and accented with lovely tobacco, pine resin and clove. Full-bodied with some solid tannic grip, but the mouthfeel is velvety, backed up by such refreshing and vibrant acidity. Juicy black and red cherries glide across the palate, and I love these grilled bell pepper and mushroom notes. Balanced levels of vanilla and cedar. Long, seamless finish. This is such a solid Monticello Cabernet Franc! Matured 10 months in French and American oak. (88 points)

2013 Glen Manor Vineyards Hodder Hill - Virginia, Shenandoah Valley
SRP: $50
Saucy purple color. A really cool kick of hay, black walnut, soy and leather on top of the juicy black and red currants. Medium-to-full-bodied with a sturdy tannic structure, this is a densely concentrated wine but some mild acidity keeps it relatively lively. Deep plums, roasted figs, black cherries, the fruit is juicy but seriously concentrated. Complex elements of tobacco, sage, eucalyptus combine with hazelnut, cedar and vanilla, which are woven in expertly. Intriguing minerality pervades the wine. One of the most age-worthy wines in the bunch, this will do a whole lot more in the decanter or, preferably, after three or four years in the cellar. A blend of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot. (90 points)

2010 Granite Heights Vineyard Evening Serenade - Virginia, Northern Virginia, Fauquier County
SRP: $41
A kind of dull ruby color. Tart red fruits on the nose (raspberries, cranberries) with juicy black cherries and notes of tobacco, violets and mushroom. Medium-plus-bodied with medium acidity and a dusty/velvety tannic structure. Black cherries galore along with cranberry sauce and currant tea. I get a loam and tar elements that spices up the cedar and coffee flavors. Nice balance, presents itself well, but still enough concentration for a few years in the cellar. A blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc aged 15 months in American and French oak. (87 points)

2012 Naked Mountain Petit Verdot - Virginia, Northern Virginia, Blue Ridge Foothills
SRP: $36
Dense purple color. Concentrated aromas of blackberry and black currant, as air coaxes out some tar, graphite and roasted coffee. Surprisingly vibrant on the palate with a medium-to-full-bodied approach, fleshy tannins and crunchy acidity. Flavors of dark currants, blueberries and plum skin, the fruit is dense but maintains a tart edge. Smoky tar elements last onto the finish, and I get some earth and roasted coffee as well. Tightly-packed, this will develop in the cellar, but it has a vibrancy to it that makes it easy to sip now. Includes 11% Merlot and 11% Tannat. (86 points)

2013 North Gate Vineyard Meritage - Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County
SRP: $26
Deep ruby/light purple color. Love the aromatics here, right out of the bottle, but they get even more complex with air: black cherries and dark, crunchy plums with mocha, charcoal and dark chocolate shavings. The palate shows medium tannins that provide a good backbone for the pleasant acidity. Black cherries and dark plums abound in this ripe but crunchy wine. Notes of cedar, smoke, dark chocolate, vanilla and black licorice are blended in well to the overall package. A blend of 60% Merlot, 22% Petit Verdot and 18% Cabernet Franc. (88 points)

2013 Stone Tower Winery Hogback Mountain - Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County
SRP: $69
Deep purple color. The nose is juicy, deep and lush with suave blueberry and blackberry topped with mocha, vanilla, toasted coconut and scorched earth. Full-bodied with sturdy tannins and moderating acidity, this is a mouth-filling but velvety wine. Saucy black and blue fruit, concentrated but smooth, laced with smoke, toasted nuts, coffee, violets and vanilla. Quite complex and deep, this needs time in the cellar to show its full potential. 69% Cabernet Sauvignon with the remainder Merlot, this is aged 18 months in new and used French and American oak. (89 points)

Some of Virginia’s Finest: Michael Shaps

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

“Virginia wine sucks.”

I’ve heard the same tired remarks about Virginia wine since I first started exploring it a half-dozen years ago. Perhaps at one point in time, Virginia wine haters deserved the benefit of the doubt. Maybe they had a few crummy bottles or an unexciting trip to a winery that didn’t take the wine part of the operation all that seriously. Maybe they just didn’t know any better and, hey, the good stuff is really hard to find, right?

Maybe. But, these days, when someone fires off a declarative “Virginia doesn’t make good wine” comment, they are providing you with an indicator of willful ignorance. There is so much good, even great, Virginia wine that the naysayers have no excuse anymore.

Michael Shaps has heard from the “Virginia wine sucks” crowd for decades. “Back in ‘95, there was a lot more of it,” he said. These days? “For every one who makes that comment there are ten people who get it.”

I tasted three of Shaps’ wines during a virtual #VAWineChat tasting with Frank Morgan, Virginia wine guru and social media master. During the live stream earlier this month, I was joined by dozens of other folks who sampled the same wines and chatted with Shaps about his vino and the state of the Virginia wine industry.

If you want to sip some of the best wine in Virginia, bottles from Michael Shaps should definitely be on that tasting table. Shaps studied winemaking in Beaune, and worked for Jefferson Vineyards and King Family, and has 20 years of experience crafting impressive Virginia wine. He makes wine for some 20 clients at a custom crush facility as well. Shaps’ 2012 Tannat and his 2012 desert Petit Manseng “Raisin d’Etre” were among the 2015 Virginia Governor’s Cup winners — and I found both of them to be great examples of what Virginia vino can achieve.  

Petit Manseng is a grape Michael gets excited about when he talks about it. He calls this grape “bulletproof in the vineyard” for its ability to handle the heat and humidity of Virginia’s winegrowing climate. “It’s an ideal grape for our climate and our situation, but the challenge is managing the acidity,” Shaps said. Petit Manseng grapes can have tart and bracing acidity, but if you let the grapes hang on the vine for a long time, they can reach higher levels of ripeness that can help balance out the zip from the acid. This adds richness in the form of alcohol content as well, and the 2014 clocked in at 14.6% alcohol. And while Virginia Petit Manseng can be rich and honeyed, it maintains such freshness and is frequently marked with interesting spice and floral components. It’s a wine that can accompany fresh seafood (like Shaps’ dry style) or the richest deserts and cheeses (when made into unctuous late-harvest wines).

“It’s something unique that we do here that no one else can do, it’s been really turning some heads,” Shaps said during the tasting.  I turned my head to Virginia Petit Manseng a few years ago, and things have only gotten better since then.

Many producers who can get their hands on Petit Manseng allow it to hang on the vine for a long time. For his Raisin d’Etre wine, Shaps allows the grapes to ripen all the way to 28-30 brix. Then the grapes are harvested and brought into tobacco barns and dried, concentrating the sweetness even further. The result is one of the best and most unique sweet wines I’ve tasted out of Virginia. His dry version is Exhibit A in why Virginia Petit Manseng should be on your radar.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2014 Michael Shaps Petit Manseng Honah Lee Vineyard - Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
A rich golden color. The aromas show a nice mix of brightness and richness, with lemon and tangerine peels, honeycomb and orange marmalade, along with hints of seashells and wildflowers. A full-bodied wine at 14.6% alcohol, bone dry, the mouthfeel is waxy and creamy but balanced out with some moderate acid. The tangerine, orange marmalade, apricot jam and cantaloupe fruit slides across the palate, leaving notes of orange creamsicle, nougat, candle wax, dried flowers and a slight note of crushed shells and chalk. A rich and broad wine but really attractive and distinct. Fermented in French oak (including some new). If you haven’t heard about Virginia Petit Manseng and are interested but wary, try this wine. It’s the cream of the crop and, for me, a thrilling wine. (91 pts.)

We then tasted the new release Cabernet Franc, a grape that has gotten lots of attention as something of a signature red grape in the state. Generally I think it works best went blended together with some Merlot and/or Cabernet Sauvignon, but Shaps’ 100% varietal Cab Franc is something to seek out. Shaps admits the oak is a little intense (the juice sees 50% new French oak for 18-24 months). But Shaps says he wants to make an ageworthy wine, and he feels oak really helps the wine hold up in the long run.

2013 Michael Shaps Cabernet Franc - Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
Pale ruby color. Beautiful nose, really exuberant with its bright red cherries and currants, lots of tobacco, tomato leaf and mossy soil notes, hints of clove and violets. Medium-bodied, the acid has so much vibrancy, and the medium-light tannins have a dusty feel. All of this combines in a smooth but relatively structured wine that is so easy to drink right out of the bottle. Juicy red cherries, raspberries and strawberries, the fruit is ripe enough but showing a pleasantly crunchy aspect. Notes of tobacco, tomato bush, loamy soil and pot smoke. The 50% new oak can be a bit much, but it’s still a silky, smooth wine with refreshing, food-friendly appeal. It’s really woven together well, although it’s likely one to evolve quite a bit over two to four years. (88 pts.)

Many Meritage wines from Virginia frequently contain a lot (or even a majority) of Merlot. Merlot might not be easy in the sales aisle or the vineyard, but it does very well in Virginia. If people are still skeptical about seeing the word Merlot on a wine label, the grape does wonders when blended together with other Bordeaux varieties. And Shaps’ 2010 is a beauty.

2010 Michael Shaps Meritage - Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
Medium ruby color. Juicy red and black plums on the nose, some raspberry jam, a vibrant and lively blend of violets, light roast coffee, cola and cinnamon. Medium-bodied, medium acidity offers freshness, velvety tannins provide enough structure. I get gushing black cherries, summer plums, fig paste, mixed in with notes of roasted chestnut, loamy soil, spiced coffee and dark chocolate. A generous wine, solid structure, plenty of complexity in here. I’d love to cellar this for three or four more years. 40% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Franc, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Petite Verdot and 12% Malbec, 13.7% alcohol. (89 pts.)

North Gate Vineyard - Tasty Wines from Loudon County, Virginia

If you enjoy Virginia wine, and you’re social media savvy, there’s only one online place to gather: #VAWineChat. Frank Morgan, a friend and fellow blogger who tweets @DrinkWhatULike, has been bringing wine lovers and Virginia vintners together since 2013.

I recently popped some corks and tuned in as Frank met with Mark Fedor of North Gate Vineyard of Loudon County. I’d tasted and enjoyed a few North Gate wines before, including the 2015 Governor’s Cup Award-winning 2012 Meritage, so I was expecting good things. The wines delivered.

North Gate planted its first vines in 2002 and kicked off the winery in 2007. For a relative newcomer, proprietor Mark Fedor says he feels like a veteran in Loudon County. There were just 18 wineries in the county when North Gate opened, Mark says, but that number has more than doubled to 42 now.  

Mark was proud to point out the winery’s environmental certifications. A lot of these certifications are not easy for the average consumer to understand, but it seems clear North Gate Vineyard has ingrained environmentally sound methods into many of its practices. This is something I think should always be pointed out and celebrated.

As part of the Twitter-based tasting, participants sipped through three North Gate wines, a Viognier, a Merlot and a Meritage.

Viognier is Virginia’s official state grape, and consumers have a ton of options to choose from. Mark says it’s hard to define Virginia Viognier as a category because the wines are so diverse. “As an industry we haven’t come down to one style of Viognier,” Mark says. “We have so much diversity that people are somewhat confused as to what it should be.” A lot of growers let the fruit hang long on the vine, which drives up the alcohol content and allows the grape to reach the heights of honeyed creaminess. But more and more producers are picking earlier, refraining from too much new oak, and releasing Viogniers with a bright and steely posture. I found Mark’s wine to be somewhere in the middle of the Virginia Viognier spectrum. It’s creamy, tropical and floral but stays fresh and balanced.

2014 North Gate Vineyard Viognier - Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County
$22
Pale gold color with a tinge of copper. Smells of pineapple juice, guava, kiwi and some dried honey and spicy white wildflowers as well. Very creamy and smooth on the palate, the acid is a bit low as the wine runs like honey, but not too full. (The label says 13.8% alcohol but supposedly the wine is somewhere north of 14%.) Super tropical, with pineapple, papaya, guava, the fruit is doused with whipped honey butter, lilies, baby’s breath and nougat. Fun stuff, very ripe and forward but stays steely and bright. (87 points)


Merlot has found a sweet spot in Virginia. It seems every time we talk about Merlot, the movie Sideways comes up, and the conversation turns to the ensuing popular dissatisfaction with this noble grape. Look, there have always been shitty Merlots and there always will be. But I’m glad Virginia growers have stuck with this grape and taken it so seriously. Lots of high quality Merlot is coming out of Virginia, and many of them carry modest price tags. A number of the 2015 Governor’s Cup winners had Merlot in them, usually blended with Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon. North Gate’s Merlot is a solid buy at $19, and their Merlot-based Meritage is no joke.

2013 North Gate Vineyard Merlot - Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County
$19
Vibrant but deep ruby color. Juicy black and red plum fruit on the nose, mixed in with cedar shavings, light roast coffee, loamy soil. Tangy acid meets fine-grained tannins, making this an easy-drinking wine with a delightfully fresh appeal. The fruit is juicy and tart (black cherry, red and black plums, wild blueberry). Lots of mocha, cedar, roasted coffee and cinnamon sticks… hints of loam and dried violets. I love the freshness and vibrancy of this wine. Probably not one to store for more than a few years, but a delightful Virginia Merlot. Another example of how Merlot kills it in Virginia. The wine is aged for 17 months in 25% new French oak and includes 10% Petit Verdot. (87 points)

2013 North Gate Vineyard Meritage - Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County
$24
Deep ruby color. Tart red and black cherries and plums on the nose. I get some coffee, dark chocolate, smoky toasted oak. Tart and crunchy on the palate, dusty tannins of medium strength give this structure. The black cherry and plum fruit is tangy and fresh, laced with notes of smoke, cherry wood, anise and dark chocolate. Forward with the oak but the wine still maintains and fresh presence on the palate. Accessible now or good for near-term aging. Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. (88 points)


I just found out North Gate also produces a non-vintage Rkatsiteli, which I now have to try. There aren’t too many American vintners who try their hand at this ancient white grape from the Republic of Georgia. 

If you’re a fan of Virginia wine, or just touring the beautiful winelands of Loudon County, Virginia, North Gate is a good bet. I’ll definitely be stopping by the next time I plan a Loudon County wine trek. 

Cheers!