Showing posts with label California sparkling. Show all posts
Showing posts with label California sparkling. Show all posts

Wednesday, June 19, 2024

Kicking off Summer with Scharffenberger

This little guy is stoked for Summer.
Happy Summer Solstice! Though it unofficially started a few weeks ago, I hope your Summer is off to a great start.

I’ve been spending a lot of time out rock climbing, hiking, and looking for Summer mushrooms to forage of late. It’s getting hotter and more humid all the time, so I haven’t been spending as much time thinking about wine, especially reds. (Stay hydrated, folks!)

It seems like the world is in a state of much flux these days, so I appreciate even more those lovely things which pretty much stay the same. Like the quality of sparkling wine from California powerhouse Scharffenberger.

I first tasted one of these wines probably 15 years ago now, and I was instantly a fan. This Anderson Valley Mendocino producer dates back to before my time, in 1981, when founder John Scharffenberger set his claim to making California sparkling wine in the Champagne method, with a goal to make the best wine possible. It took off. In 2004, they became part of the Roederer collection, bringing the best of Mendocino sparkling wine under the same umbrella.

In 2018 Jeffy Jindra took over as winemaker, the third in the winery’s history. And their streak of producing classic, crisp, complex iterations of Champagne method sparkling wine continues unabated.

Recently, I tasted through two of their new releases, and was delighted to find them just as delicious and exciting as I remember. If you’re looking for a wine to have for pool parties, cookouts, Fourth of July gatherings, one or both of these wines would fit the bill perfectly.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

N.V. Scharffenberger Brut Excellence - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County
SRP: $24
Light gold color. The nose shows a delightful mix of deep yellow apples, bright orange peel, candied pineapple, with yellow flowers, chalk dust, notes of almond skin and minerals. The acidity is precise but the palate shows a lot of richness, with delicious fruit (white peach, cantaloupe, lime zest, yellow apple). Deep but bright with chalk-infused, mineral, oceanic influences that bounce off the richer honeyed and almond tones. So pretty and a great value. (91 points)

N.V. Scharffenberger Brut Rose Excellence - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County
SRP: $30
Light watermelon color. The aromas pop with chalky, flinty vibes with rose hips and petals along with raspberries, white cherries, and watermelon. Some fun floral perfume tones as well. The palate is racy and crunchy with fine bubbles and some lovely textural depth. Flavors of white cherries, raspberries, and watermelon rind, backed up by complex notes of chalk, minerals, white flowers, honeysuckle, and some green herbs. Fresh and fun but lots of complexity and nicely balanced. (92 points)

Sunday, March 24, 2024

Oh, my stars! Merry Edwards’ Cuvee Eclipse shines

Have you ever known one of those humans with absurd musical abilities? Someone who succeeds easily in one discipline or instrument but can pick up another and master it in no time?

My father is just that type of person. He excelled early at the piano and from there picked up guitar, bass, accordion, harmonica, drums, and a few more I’m sure I missed. When living in Ukraine, he even taught himself how to play the bandura, a traditional Ukrainian folk instrument with dozens of strings. Meanwhile, I spent years attempting to be a mediocre guitarist, and failed. Some folks just have a knack for it.

Credit: Merry Edwards Winery
I was thinking of this concept as I tasted Merry Edwards’ new sparkling wine, the 2017 Cuvée Eclipse. It’s a Pinot Noir Champagne-method sparkling wine -- which aren’t easy to make. The process is complicated, the fruit needs to be just right, the execution just so. These wines speak so clearly that faults, should there be any, are laid bare.

See, Merry Edwards Winery is a Sonoma Pinot Noir legend. One of the pioneers of Pinot in Sonoma in the 1970s, Merry and her eponymous winery have been crafting elegant, exciting wines from different sites, expressing the diversity and purity of this grape.

But it was another project of excellence that drew me to this winery. It was sometime in the late 2000s when I discovered their Sauvignon Blanc. I had seen some rave reviews and had to try a bottle for myself. Not expecting all that much (Sauv Blanc just isn’t my thing), the wine blew me away, and I’ve returned to it many times over the years.

Since then, I’ve visited the winery several time, tasted dozens and dozens of new releases, and kept up with the winery’s changes and new vineyard sources. Merry retired in 2020, but the transition to winemaker Heidi von der Mehden has been seamless. The Sonoma County native worked side-by-side with Merry for several vintages before taking over, and the last four years have seen an excellent run of releases and stoke-inducing wines, and keeping the same signature and artistic expression alive.

Like my dad picking up a new instrument, the winery has a new player in its orchestra, and it works perfectly.

The new wine dates back to August 21, 2017 – the last total solar eclipse visible from North America. As this amazing event unfolded, the first grapes from the Richaven Vineyard, at Merry’s home, were harvested. After years of work, aging, and refinement, the wine is out and ready – just in time for the April 8 total solar eclipse.

A few very good friends of mine are driving to see the path of totality (in Ohio), but I will sadly not be able to join them. However, when tasting this wine, I get a deep impression of a singular event that, like the coming eclipse, will create lasting memories.

If you’re making plans to view the upcoming total solar eclipse, and you like sparkling wine, this is a no-brainer. But if you’re also just generally a Pinot fan and you want a killer sparkling wine to blind-taste your Champagne nerd friends on, this is a great choice. I really think it’ll excel in the cellar for a decade-plus.

This wine was received as a sample and tasted sighted.

2017 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Cuvée Eclipse - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $100
Pale copper color. The aromas are popping with all sorts of red apples, papaya, orange peel, and strawberry, with nuances of chalk dust and limestone. Add in some honeysuckle, whipped cream, bread crumbs, and almond skin and this is just a pleasure to sniff. On the palate, this wine is vibrant and with precise acidity but a rich textural depth, precise bubbles, and the balance is on point. Beautiful fruit expression, a mix of lemon, white peach, yellow apples, crunchy green pears, mixed with elegant tones of almond skin, lemon crème, honeyed white tea, chalk dust, bread crumbs, hints of shaved ginger. Beautiful richness/raciness combination, and the flavors are exciting and dynamic. I’m so glad they tried this wine, and it exceeded my high expectations. 100% Pinot Noir, 8.5 g/l of sugar, and aged six years on the lees. (95 points)

Tuesday, March 28, 2023

Wine Reviews: Springtime Selections

It’s finally, officially, spring. And finally starting to feel like it, too – with a cold and wet March transitioning into vibrant flowers and warmer temps. I’m excited for all the springtime traditions to come – picnics with friends, birdwatching during migration, foraging for spring mushrooms. I wish you all the best in your springtime holidays and traditions.

Recently, I’ve received some wines that would fit really well into my springtime meals and gatherings. I’m always on the lookout for those wines that combine quality, value, and speak to their place and tradition, and this week’s choices include a few that hit that spot.

California is well represented here with a collection of springy, spritely wines. I can’t wait to visit again soon and hopefully catch a bunch of wildflower views in meadows and vineyards. Classic bubbles from Scharffenberger, along with a mix of delightful Chardonnays – there’s a lot to like. I’ve included a few fresh Pinots to round things out, as those juicy, red-fruited wines are always welcome at my table. And some Italian wines from Friuli’s Attems have a lot of quality and value to offer.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2021 Attems Pinot Grigio RamatoItaly, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Friuli DOC
SRP: $20
Pale copper color. The nose is a spritely jaunt of white peaches and lemons, white cherries, lots of flowers, with cool briny, white pepper, and celery seed tones. The palate is racy and taut with nice textural depth and flavors of white cherries, orange peel, and juicy pear. Such a crunchy, spicy, fun wine with lots of floral nuances, honey, and herbal tones to parse through. Has a cool herbal, chalky, salty vibe that lingers long onto the finish. An “accessible” style of Ramato that would be a great introduction for a newbie or a by-the-glass list addition. Also a really solid value. (90 points)

2021 Attems Sauvignon BlancItaly, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Venezia Giulia IGT
SRP: $15
A light yellow with hint of pale copper. Super peachy on the nose with zesty lemons, limes, a green apples, with dandelion and chalky, flinty vibes. The palate is bright and crisp but sports a pleasant creaminess as well. Green apples and limes mix nicely with talc and flinty, mineral tones. Nuances of basil and white pepper accent the wine well. Brisk and salad-friendly, but it shows a lot of complexity. A “real”-tasting Sauv Blanc at this price point, which isn’t easy to find. (89 points)

N.V. Scharffenberger Brut Rose Excellence
USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County
SRP: $29
Deep salmon color. The nose sports a bright, chalky, floral appeal with raspberries and white cherries, with some biscuits, strawberry rhubarb pie, sea salt – a lot of cool things going on. The palate is racy with fine bubbles and a lush mouthfeel. Strawberries, tart red apples, wild raspberries, the fruit is mixed with biscuits, saltine crackers, honeysuckle, mint. Love the creaminess but this maintains crunchy, fresh vibes throughout. This classic California sparkler is still going strong, and is demonstrating some serious value. 55% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir, aged two years on the lees. (90 points)

2021 Girasole Vineyards Pinot BlancUSA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County
SRP: $15
Light yellow color. Such a bright aromatic display, a fruit salad of lemon, papaya, and pineapple, topped with dandelion, honeysuckle, and white pepper. A creamy texture supports the palate, matched with brisk acidity, and flavors of limes and pineapples. A fun, juicy appeal but it has a lot of complexity and depth, with notes of basil, honeysuckle, white pepper, all sorts of spring meadow vibes going on here. Juicy but racy, well-balanced Pinot Blanc – I could see this being a BTG list hit at a bistro. Value alert! (89 points)

2020 Landmark Chardonnay OverlookUSA, California, Sonoma County
SRP: $27
Ripe yellow color. A rich nose of yellow apples and pears, with honey, fresh biscuits, whipped butter, but the wine stays fresh and inviting. The palate shows a creamy base with flavors of juicy white peaches and yellow apples, with moderate acidity. Notes of honey, almond, cinnamon, and graham cracker add a warm complexity, but the wine finishes lively with a floral touch. Fun, juicy Chard at a good price. (88 points)

2021 Balverne Chardonnay Estate Grown Forever WildUSA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $35
Medium yellow. The nose has a lot to offer, with yellow apples, quince, lemons, and a mix of honey and graham cracker, with some chalk dust and sea salt. The palate shows lovely texture and vibrant acidity over a bed of yellow apples, key lime pie, pears, with a fresh and vibrant appeal. Richer notes of hazelnut and almond cake mix with bright elements of honeysuckle, chalk dust, sea salt. Deep but balanced and fresh Russian River Chard. (90 points)

2021 Three Sticks Chardonnay Durell VineyardUSA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $70
Light yellow color. A brisk and salty appeal on the nose, with limes, green pears, with honeysuckle, almond skin, and a lot of white and yellow flowers. Racy acidity frames the palate well, keeping and airy and lively feel, but there’s beautifully deep texture, and refined balance. Juicy yellow pears and apples, drizzled with limes, mixed with hints of basil, peanut shell, chalk dusty, saline. There’s so much clarity and focus in here, and it will age wonderfully. A great example of Durrell Chardonnay. Fermented and aged in concrete eggs, stainless steel and oak. (93 points)

2019 Landmark Pinot Noir OverlookUSA, California, Sonoma County
SRP: $27
Vibrant cherry color. Aromas of fresh red plums, tart cherries, cranberry relish, backed up with dried rose petals, rhubarb, white pepper – really fun. The palate sports a tart, crunchy, vibrant appeal with juicy red cherries, pomegranate, and strawberries – the fruit has this chilled, freshness throughout. Notes of violets, rhubarb, anise, and white pepper add complexity, and more of those savory tones come out with air. A lot of finesse and complexity for a Sonoma Pinot at this price point. (90 points)

2021 Three Sticks Pinot Noir Monarch
USA, California, Sonoma County
SRP: $75
Deep ruby color. Gorgeous aromas of black cherries, gushing strawberry and red plums, ripe yet fresh, the fruit on the nose makes the mouth water. Elements of cola, rhubarb, spicy herbal tea, and warm clay add complexity. Suave tannins and refined acidity meet blissfully on the palate. Chewy but fresh with delicious fruit (cranberry relish, chilled cherries, strawberry jam), which is met with a complex host of earth, spiced tea, chestnut, black tea, oregano. There’s a stony, clay earthy, mineral-encrusted atmosphere here, and a silky, floral finish. Great now but this will be even better in five years. Beautiful. A blend of estate fruit aged 10 months in 40% new French oak. (93+ points)

Thursday, December 8, 2022

Winter Whites and Rosé

Happy December! The holidays are coming, the days are nearing their shortest, and the air is getting colder. By the time this is posted, I’ll hopefully be halfway through a long Shenandoah hike to a few summits to enjoy the cold solitude. And, I’ll likely be sipping some red wine and eating meat upon my return.

That said, I love stocking up on lighter wines for winter. I have a tradition – which dates back about a decade at this point – of opening a nice bottle of rose on the day of the first proper snowstorm. Maybe it’s a way of both embracing the cold and the discomfort that sometimes comes along with it, but also raising a glass that brings those summery, fresh vibes to the day. I highly recommend it. So, if you’re looking for some lighter wines for the holidays, I’ve got a good range of selections today.

For summery pinks, Provence is always on my mind. I received a few samples from Wines of Provence, a region that sent the U.S. 34% in volume of its exports last year. We love this stuff, and it’s easy to see why. (If I had a dollar for every winemaker from a different region who told me they make a “Provence-style” rosé, well I’d have money for a few of these bottles.

Napa’s Castello di Amorosa provides a wide array of white grapes and wine styles, from drier, zestier Pinot Biancos to Gewurz in off-dry styles. These show good value and crowd-friendly appeal for holiday gatherings. And, on the richer side of things, I have a wonderful white Rhone from Chateau La Nerthe, that would be great with all sorts of warm winter dishes.

I’m a big fan of the red wines from Napa’s Frank Family, but their sparkling wine program has been impressive to watch. Their Brut rosé and Blanc de Blancs offer a lot of complexity, vibrancy, and age-worthiness that makes their price points so reasonable. Worth checking out for sure if you’re a fan of California sparkling wines.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

White


2021 Château La Nerthe Côtes du Rhône Villages Les Cassagnes de la Nerthe Blanc - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages
SRP: $24
Deep yellow color. The nose exudes pineapple, white peach and honeyed pears, and while those deeper tones are great, I get a lot of brighter, wildflower and herb nuances, too. Creamy and deeply textured on the palate but the moderate acidity keeps it lively – the mouthfeel is great. Papaya, pineapple and lemon curd fruit, which is backed up by these cool ginger, dried apricot, floral and waxy elements. What seals the deal is this mineral, stony finish. Complex and delicious, this could also do with a few years in the cellar. A blend of 30% Grenache Blanc, 30% Viognier, 30% Roussanne and 10% Marsanne. The quality and value in this blend are really something. (91 points 
IJB)

2021 Castello di Amorosa Pinot Bianco - USA, California, Sonoma County
SRP: $30
Medium straw color. The nose shows a whole bunch of fruity goodness (white peach, yellow apple, pears) along with orange blossom and daisies. The palate has a creamy texture with spritely acidity and a clean, floral-infused feel. Honeyed tones, too, with some light herbal flavors and stony, chalky notes on the finish seal the deal. All Pinot Bianco, all stainless steel. (87 points 
IJB)

2021 Castello di Amorosa Pinot Grigio - USA, California, North Coast
SRP: $27
Light yellow color. A floral and potpourri-themed aromatic display, with some kiwi, green apple and pineapple. Crisp acidity on the palate, a juicy texture, with pineapple, green apple and lime fruit. Has a pleasant creaminess, with some floral perfume, sugar cane and spring meadow vibes. Fun, fresh stuff. (86 points 
IJB)

2021 Castello di Amorosa Vermentino - USA, California, South Coast, Temecula Valley
SRP: $34
Light yellow color. A popping nose of white peaches and limes, daisies, clover, some honey and breezy flower garden tones. Sports a fuller body, creamy texture, but balanced with vibrant acidity, and flavors of kiwi, yellow apples, limes, backed up with honey, some crushed sweet tarts, and plenty of tropical flowers and flavors to enjoy. I’ve never tried this grape from this region before, and it’s a fun ride. (88 points 
IJB)

2020 Castello di Amorosa Gewürztraminer - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $32
Ripe yellow color. Bursting aromas of peaches on the nose, with cantaloupe and limes, along with lemon verbena, orange blossoms. Richly textured on the palate, deep, honeyed elements, but there’s moderating acidity throughout. Yellow apples, guava and white peach fruit blend well with tropical flowers and nuanced spice and herbal tones. This would be so versatile with so many foods. (89 points 
IJB)

2021 Castello di Amorosa Gewürztraminer "Dolcino" - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $32
Rich yellow color. Sweet aromas of rich peach nectar and apricots, drizzled with honey, topped in white flowers and some green tea. Richly textured, sweet but the sugar is buttressed by vibrant acidity. Peaches, pineapple and limes, with a lot of floral and perfumed tones. I love the spicy accents, and along with subtle mineral tones, it makes this wine really pop. Fun for spicy foods or holiday parties. If you’re looking for some fun semi-sweet style. 13.5% alcohol, 35 g/l residual sugar. (88 points 
IJB)

Sparkling


2017 Frank Family Vineyards Blanc de Blancs - USA, California, Napa Valley, Carneros
SRP: $55
Medium yellow color. A complex nose of biscuits, bread dough, chalk and sea salt, with yellow apples, lemon crème, some floral tones – lovely. Rich texture and vibrant acidity on this wine, has a pristine feel with these mineral and talc tones throughout. And the green apple and lemon fruit blends really well with the richer tones of biscuits, honey and almond. Lovely versatility and complexity in this wine, and I’d love to see it in a few years. Almost five years on the lees, this Blanc de Blancs has a lot to offer. (92 points 
IJB)

2017 Frank Family Vineyards Brut Rosé - USA, California, Napa Valley, Carneros
SRP: $55
Deep copper color. Beautiful nose of raspberries and red apples, lots of roses, cut flower stems, chalky, slight biscuity tones. The palate has a crunchy and flinty feel, but the fine bubbles and creaminess make for a lovely balance. White cherry, raspberry and red apple fruit mix with tons of minerals and crushed shells, subtle spice, dried flowers and biscuits. Delicious but complex Pinot Noir bubbles aged four years on the lees. (91 points 
IJB)

Rosé

2021 Domaine de Cantarelle Côteaux Varois Riviera Bistro Rosé - France, Provence, Côteaux Varois
SRP: $20
Pale copper color. Super floral on the nose, with lots of herbal tones, too (oregano, mint, white pepper), over raspberry and red apple fruit. Punchy and vibrant on the palate, a juicy texture but racy acidity. Raspberry, white cherry and crunchy red apple fruit blends well with chalky, minty, spicy-herbal tones. Medium-bodied, fresh and fun – lots to like here. (88 points 
IJB)

2021 Domaine d'Eole Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence - France, Provence, Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence
SRP: $20
Medium copper color. Aromas pop with raspberry, watermelon, McIntosh apple, and tones of basil, dandelion, and crushed shells. The palate has pleasant creaminess and crisp acidity, and a fruit salad of raspberries, watermelon and lemon slices. There are these honeyed, white tea, and floral complexities that are quite impressive, with notes of saline, talc and a hint of rosemary. Fun, juicy but complex and balanced. Value alert! (90 points 
IJB)

2021 Famille Sumeire Château Coussin Sainte Victoire Côtes de Provence - France, Provence, Côtes de Provence
SRP: $17
Bright salmon color. A light and zesty appeal on the nose, tart and crunchy red berry fruit backed up by green herbs, sea salt and floral perfume. Brisk and taut on the palate with tangy raspberry and tart white cherry fruit. Lots of spicy-herb complexities (dandelion, nettle, white pepper), and this maintains a mineral, rocky, saline-infused vibe throughout. Refreshing, mouth-watering finish. A lot going on here. (89 points IJB)

Tuesday, September 13, 2022

California on the mind: special selections

California has been on my mind a lot lately. I’ve been following harvest reports and wineries as they prepare the 2022 vintage. And with the long-term drought, the recent heat wave, and now there’s a threat of flooding from hurricane leftovers? Sheesh! I hope you any California readers have been staying cool and well over this stretch.

So, this week, I have some really special wines from California to share – some chosen selections from producers I’ve grown to respect and appreciate.

Singer Wines at Baker Lane Estate really comes out swinging with two exceptional Rhone wines. Made by legend Stephen Singer, the wines from this west-facing site in the Sebastopol Hills speak with a crystal-clear voice to their place and grapes. If you’re looking for highly delicious yet nuanced Syrah and Viognier, these small-production wines are definitely worth your time and money.

Eden Rift makes some focused and singular Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, and it was a privilege to taste their 2019s. From the limestone-rich soils of the Cienega Valley, these are wines you taste and can just tell they come from a very special place. Especially considering the prices, the wines consistently overperform, and the 2019s are singing.

Sonoma is well represented here, including by Sonoma-Cutrer’s new Grand Brut Rosé, which certainly overdelivers for the price. LaPelle performs with a striking Bien Nacido Pinot Noir, and DuMOL’s Pinot offering is also delightful. Lastly, I also have a Paso Robles Cab that’s a whole lot of fun -- Tooth and Nail’s wines are reliably delicious and this Cab is like a chunky slab of rock-and-roll in the glass, for a solid price.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2019 Sonoma-Cutrer Grand Brut Rosé Winemaker's Release - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $55
Deep copper color. A gorgeous aromatic display that combines raspberries, white cherries and tart yellow apples with richer tones of honey and biscuits and bracing elements of chalk and talc. On the palate, this is crisp and nervy, pure and racy, with a core of red apple, raspberry and white cherry fruit. The balance is delightful, and it has this deep but crunchy feel, with tones of biscuits, honey and hay tossed with seashells, minerals, flowers, combining for this ocean meets spring meadow appeal. Complex and nervy, this should age wonderfully and is one of the best California sparkling wines I’ve tasted in a while. 70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay. (93 points)

2021 Singer Wine Viognier Baker Lane Estate - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $75
Medium yellow color. Classic deep Viognier aromas, but it has a lot of unique twists and turns that are a delight to follow: banana, kiwi, white peach, with honeycomb and raw almond, notes of chalk dust and sea salt. On the palate – wow! – the acidity is racy and fresh (thankfully) which balances well with the deep, waxy texture and juicy papaya and pineapple fruit (a drizzle of lime in there, too). The floral tones are perfumed but nuanced, and tones of chalk dust and saline are welcomed. Creamy but fresh, a delightful Sonoma Viognier worth seeking out. From a cool, west-facing site that really shines through, this is 13.8% alcohol and aged five months in neutral oak. (93 points)

2019 Singer Wine Syrah Baker Lane Estate - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $95
Deep purple color. The nose is delightfully spicy, with these paprika, red pepper flakes and black pepper dusted over a host of fresh blueberries and tart red plums – and it works so, so well. The tangy acidity sets the stage, dusty but structured tannins offer structure and grip, while the balance and freshness are on point. Tangy blackberries and red/black currant fruit mixes with lots of violets, clove, black pepper, with loamy earth and a hint of barbecue sauce and grilled meat. Spicy, fresh, floral, delicious, this will do wonders in the cellar, too. 15% whole cluster fermentation, includes 2% Viognier, aged 26 months in 450-liter puncheons, 13.8% alcohol. (94 points)

2020 DuMOL Pinot Noir Wester Reach Russian River Valley - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $80
Medium ruby color. So alive on the nose including red cherries, plums and raspberries, with a complex web of spice and floral elements (rose hips, rhubarb, cola, white pepper, tobacco, sage). The palate shows crisp acidity and smooth, structured tannins with a juicy, fresh appeal. The raspberry, red apple and cherry fruit is crunchy and zesty, and it mixes well with complexities of earth, rhubarb, tomato leaf, with nuanced cola, roasted chestnut and birch elements. Vibrant, forward but earthy and dusty. This should do nicely with three or four years in the cellar but it’s expressive already. A blend from vineyards including Flax Estate, DuMol Estate, Occidental Road and others, aged 12 months in 25% new French oak. (92 points)

2019 Eden Rift Chardonnay Estate - USA, California, Central Coast, Cienega Valley
SRP: $42
Rich gold color. The aromas are so bright and spritely, with chalk dust, yellow flowers, meadow breeze, with lemons, limes and pineapple. Pure and crisp on the palate, a zippy yet creamy mouthfeel, delightful balance. The yellow apple, lime and papaya fruit blends well with flinty minerals, clover, honey, accents of almond and candle wax. Deep texture but stays racy and feels effortless throughout. So much Chardonnay goodness for the price. (93 points)

2019 Eden Rift Pinot Noir Estate - USA, California, Central Coast, Cienega Valley
SRP: $48
Bright ruby color. On the nose, this is airy and floral, and I get tart cranberry relish, pomegranate fruit and red cherries. Full of seasonings and spices (white pepper, clove, rhubarb, celery seed), and the combination is invigorating. On the palate, this is smooth and silky but structured, with lip-smacking acidity and a bright, balanced feel. Tangy raspberries and red apple peel, such pretty texture and mouthfeel, with elements of clay, rhubarb, dusty earth, rose petals and white pepper. This will age marvelously. (93 points)

2019 Eden Rift Pinot Noir Palmtag Block - USA, California, Central Coast, Cienega Valley

SRP: $78
Gorgeous ruby color. So breezy and floral on the nose, yet such depth, too: rose hips, rhubarb, white pepper, oregano and basil over top of crunchy cranberry and wild raspberry fruit. Crisp acidity and fine-grained tannins make for a pure and balanced wine, and the red fruit is vibrant and alive (cranberry, red apple, raspberry). Complex notes of rhubarb, rose petals, paprika and white pepper add a lot to ponder, and the mouthfeel is fantastic. Their first single-block Pinot, from between the flatter vineyards and the terraces. A real beauty that has a lot more to show in the cellar. (95 points)

2020 Tooth & Nail Wines Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $26
Vibrant purple color. Juicy but pretty on the nose with cherries and plum sauce, along with savory and spicy elements of clove, anise, creosote and pepper – has a real grill-out vibe that is a ton of fun. Suave on the palate with enough acidity to keep it lively and a chewy but nuanced feel. Blackberry, raspberry and fig fruit meld well with tones of tar, roasted red pepper and graphite. Ripe and fun but quite complex and balanced as well. Aged 10 months in 25% new French oak, this bottle has an augmented reality character-driven label as well. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Sunday, November 10, 2019

Wine Reviews: Bubbles

Sparkling wine shows no signs of slowing down with sales up 5.6% in 2018, making for 16 consecutive years of category growth.

Americans love their bubbles. Even after more than a dozen years of growth, sparkling wine in U.S. is still on the rise, up about 5% last year. And, with the holidays and the New Year coming up, it’s a good time to be on the lookout for inexpensive bubbles.

I recently received some sparkling wines from around the world, almost all of which come in under $25 — no Champagne here, sorry!

Most of these wines come from Freixenet Mionetto USA, an amalgamation of the two brands known for their Cava and Prosecco, respectively.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

N.V. Gratien & Meyer Crémant de Loire Brut Rosé - France, Loire Valley, Crémant de Loire
SRP: $18
Deep copper color. Smells of peaches, red apple peel, with chalk, sweet roses and some oregano and mint. Crisp yet juicy and punchy on the palate, with plenty of juicy raspberry, strawberry and red apple fruit. A light, brisk style with salty, floral and chalky notes. Vibrant, tasty, seafood-friendly stuff. (87 points)

N.V. Freixenet Prosecco Extra Dry - Italy, Veneto, Prosecco
SRP: $22
Light lemon color. Nose shows green apples, lemons, faint white flowers. Crisp and light on the palate with plump texture and medium acidity. Lemons, apricots, tangy green apples, this is a light, crisp, straightforward Prosecco with foamy, spritzy, floral appeal. Lemons and apricots topped in white and yellow flowers. Simple but balanced well, and the drier take makes this a really seafood- and salad-friendly Prosecco. (85 points)

N.V. Mionetto Prosecco Organic Extra Dry - Italy, Veneto, Prosecco
SRP: $16
Medium yellow color. Aromas of lemons, limes, crushed sweet tarts, nettle, and a nice mix of white and yellow flowers. Crisp and bright on the palate, not too sweet, quite balanced and crunchy. Green apples, limes and kiwi fuse with chalky, salty notes, and lots of honeysuckle, baby’s breath and floral perfume. A crisp, chalky finish. Good amount going on here in this value-driven Prosecco. (86 points)

N.V. Segura Viudas Cava Brut - Spain, Cava
SRP: $12
Pale yellow color. Aromas show lemon curd and apricot with baby’s breath, sea salt and chalk zdust. Crisp and juicy on the palate with brisk acidity and a slight creaminess to the texture as well. Fresh, vibrant, with yellow apples and lemon curd. Notes of sea salt, cut flower stems and perfume add some complexity. Serious value here. (87 points)

N.V. Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut - USA, California, Sonoma County
SRP: $22
Light gold color. Nose boast juicy peaches, apricot, lemon crème, with chalky, floral, honeyed notes. Crisp acidity and fine bubbles blend well with a round, creamy texture and flavors of sweet white peach, yellow apple and apricot. Notes of honey, chalk, floral perfume add complexity. A reliably solid California sparkling wine that is widely available and a real value. (88 points)

N.V. J Vineyards & Winery Brut Rosé - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $45
Light salmon color. Smells of strawberries, red apples, apricot, light chalky, crushed shell notes, with some spice and white floral tones. Round texture on the palate, slight but balanced sugar, moderate acidity. A dusty, chalky, talc feel with fresh roses, green tea leaves and clove notes to accent the red apple and strawberry fruit. Juicy and plump, but vibrant as well. Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier aged 30 months on the lees. (88 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Thursday, August 22, 2019

California's Cartograph Rocks Sparklers, Chardonnay & Gewürztraminer

Cartograph dates back to around 2009, when founders Alan Baker and Serena Lourie came to Healdsburg with two barrels of Pinot Noir. 

Alan had been making his own wines at CrushPad, the San Francisco custom crush facility. Drawing on his tech consulting experience, he also oversaw CrushPad’s online platform, Crushnet. It was at this facility where he met Serena Lourie (whose background was in healthcare administration, technology and finance), and they came up with the idea for Cartograph. In 2016 Alan and Serena purchased their first vineyard, 10 acres of Pinot Noir near Sebastopol and Cotati. 

This was my first time tasting Cartograph wines, and it was a very pleasant experience tasting these wines together and seeing the nuanced differences, but also the stylistic similarities. The Pinot Noirs are fresh and lively, and the fruit has this fresh, red, early-picked quality, while maintaining the juiciness and fruitiness that you’d expect from Russian River Pinot. The inaugural vintage of their Estate Pinot Noir is something special, a really bright, elegant, floral, spicy Pinot. And their sparkling wines are on the leaner, zippier side, while showing solid complexity and depth. 

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.


2013 Cartograph Pinot Noir Brut Zéro Leonardo Julio Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $68
Deep yellow color. Brisk and inviting on the nose with oyster shells and chalk dust over top of salted butter, biscuits, bread dough, apricot and lemons. Zesty and light-bodied on the palate but there’s plenty of texture and depth. Green apples, apricot and lemon work really well with these notes of saline, crushed seashells, chalk and minerals. A bracing (in a good way) Brut Zero that would pair wonderfully with shellfish. All Chardonnay, 11.9% alcohol. (91 points)


2013 Cartograph Pinot Noir Brut Rosé Leonardo Julio Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $68
Pale copper color. Bright nose of strawberries, raspberries, rose petals, with bread crumbs, chalk dust and mint notes. Light-bodied, bright acid, fine bubbles, but there’s a nice creamy depth. Lemon meringue, sweet red apples, white cherries, the fruit is laced with chalky, mineral notes. Lovely depth, lots of chalky-dusty vibes, this is delicious, zippy, complex stuff. 11.9% alcohol. From the Leonardo Julio Vineyard. (90 points)


2018 Cartograph Dry Gewürztraminer Starscape Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $26
Deep yellow color. A peach explosion on the nose, with lemon-lime, guava, sea salt, and a spiced white tea and white pepper note. Dry, bracing, crisp on the palate, this has a really pleasantly brisk quality with lots of minerals and chalk elements. Peaches, guava and lime mix well with verbena, white pepper and honeysuckle notes. A nuanced, vibrant, complex California Gewurztraminer – that’s not something I’m used to writing! 13.3% alcohol. (90 points)


2016 Cartograph Pinot Noir Estate - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $68
Medium ruby color. Rhubarb pops from the nose, along with roses, cola, sweet strawberries and raspberries. The palate is fresh and bright with dusty tannins and juicy fruit (strawberries, red currants, raspberries). I get notes of raspberry leaf, mint and white pepper that add complexity. Juicy, fruity and fun but really vibrant and lively. I’d like to see where this goes in 2-3 years. 13.6% alcohol. (91 points)


2017 Cartograph Pinot Noir - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $48
Deep ruby color. Nose shows fresh but chilled red fruits (cherries, raspberries, strawberry jam) along with rhubarb, cola and some mushroom and pepper notes. Medium+ bodied, velvety tannins, medium acidity. Tangy yet juicy raspberries, red plums and strawberries, mixed with notes of cinnamon, clove and roasted chestnut. The earthy-complexity is very attractive and melds well with the ripe red fruits. 13.9% alcohol. (90 points)

2015 Cartograph Pinot Noir Transverse - California, North Coast
SRP: $64

Light purple color. Nose of sweet raspberries, cherries and strawberries, with healthy dollops of violets, rose petals and sweet herbs. Medium-bodied, brisk acidity, juicy and lively red fruits (cherries and raspberries). Notes of savory spices, mesquite barbecue, rose petals and cola add complexity. This is a ton of fun, shows a lot of personality, exuberant but balanced and lively. A blend of fruit from Choate Vineyard, Saltonstall Vineyard and Starscape Vineyard. 13.4% alcohol. (90 points)

Saturday, March 16, 2019

New Releases from California

Welcome back for another roundup of new releases from California!

I’ve been getting a lot of new wines from California, and this report has a good amount of the staples: Chardonnay, Pinot, Cabernet, Zinfandel. There are a couple value-driven wines that deliver, and some exciting new releases from Sonoma’s Anaba and Lake County’s Hawk & Horse.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

White wines

2017 Edna Valley Vineyard Chardonnay - California, Central Coast
SRP: $16
Nose gushes with pineapple, lemon curd, baked apple, with vanilla and honey butter. Plump and creamy texture, medium acidity, lots of yellow apple, pineapple and lemon crème. Flavors of rich toasted marshmallow, vanilla crème cookies, honey, also some fresh floral tones. Fun, accessible stuff. (85 points)

2017 Carmel Road Chardonnay Unoaked - California, Central Coast, Monterey
SRP: $22
Bright nose of peaches, green melon, lemon, white flowers and honeysuckle. Fresh and bright on the palate, this is pleasantly vibrant on a medium-bodied frame. Lemon, white peach and apricot fruit, accented with flowers, honey and chalk notes. A lively and bright style of Chardonnay at a good price. All stainless steel, 13.5% alcohol. (87 points)


2016 The Hess Collection Chardonnay Panthera - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $45
Aromas of apricot, lemon curd, orange marmalade, with ginger, honeycomb and vanilla. Texturally, this is plump and full yet shows medium acidity, and the balance is on point. Yellow apples, apricot and orange marmalade, with honey, ginger, vanilla and cinnamon crumb cake. Yet there’s this aspect of saline and minerals that makes it pop. Aged 15 months in 35% new French oak, 14.3% alcohol. (88 points)

2016 Anaba Chardonnay Dutton Ranch - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $42

Deep yet pretty scents of apricot and yellow apple, cinnamon and nutmeg, sea salt and flowers, the aromas are bold yet they make me salivate. Pristine and fresh on the palate with crisp acidity and smooth texture. Apricot, yellow apples, orange marmalade, and I get complex notes of chalk, sea salt, yellow flowers, ginger, white tea. Wow, this is really pretty stuff. Aged 17 months in 27% new French oak, 90% maloactic fermentation. (92 points)

Red wines


2016 Carmel Road Pinot Noir - California, Central Coast, Monterey
SRP: $25
Warm strawberry and cherry compote on the nose with rose petals, cola, rhubarb and white pepper. Medium-bodied palate, light tannins, medium acidity, this is a juicy and fresh style, full of pleasant red cherry, raspberry, strawberry jam. Secondary notes of clove, cola and rhubarb add some complexity. A juicy and fun style but the freshness keeps it food-friendly and so easy to drink. Aged 9 months in French oak, 13% new. (87 points)

2016 Anaba Pinot Noir - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $42
Nose boasts bright cherries, raspberries and strawberries, along with vibrant red flowers, dandelion, white pepper, rhubarb and spiced tea. Medium+ body, velvety tannins, bright acidity, the balance is quite nice. Raspberries and red cherries are topped in roses, herbal tea, white pepper, sage and raspberry leaf. Not light (lots of juicy fruit) but it has a vibrant feel and freshness to it. Drink now or hold for a few years. Aged 20 months in 35% new French oak. (90 points)

2016 J Vineyards & Winery Pinot Noir - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP $40
Bright but deep aromas of black and red cherries, raspberries and strawberries, along with roses, rhubarb, clove and spiced tea. The palate is ripe but vibrant, full but suave, with light tannins and fresh acidity. Flavors of red plums, cherries, raspberries and strawberries, plenty of ripe fruit but it is complemented by notes of cola, clove, rhubarb, potpourri, black tea, earth. Rich but nuanced, delicious but complex. (90 points)

2016 Gehricke Zinfandel - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $30
Aromas of blackberries, plums and raspberries, all tossed together in a simmer pot with violets, rhubarb, cedar and vanilla. On the palate, it’s full-bodied (15.1%) with soft tannins and enough acidity to keep it lively. Raspberries, plums, black cherries, the fruit works well with cola, cedar, birch and sweet vanilla nots. Aged 17 months in French oak. Fun, chewy, barbecue-friendly stuff. (88 points)

2016 The Hess Collection Lion Tamer - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $45
Smells of sweet plums, black cherry jam, juicy and plump with violets, cocoa, vanilla and coffee. Full-bodied but smooth with soft tannins and medium-low acidity. Sweet clumps of plum, black cherry and blackberry. Laced with vanilla, toasted marshmallow, dark chocolate and cedar, with some earthy hints. Full, hedonistic and fun. 40% Malbec with Zinfandel, Ptite Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mourvedr and Merlot. Aged 22 months in 40% new French oak. (87 points)

2016 Lucas & Lewellen Cabernet Sauvignon Valley View Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $25
Nose shows lots of plums and sweet black cherries, topped in roasted coffee, grilled herbs, pepper and cocoa. Rich and velvety style with smooth tannins and medium acidity, which adds freshness. Generous helpings of plums, black cherries and currants, and add in some clove, rosemary, pepper, and vanilla and coffee, which harmonizes well with the warm fruit. A highly drinkable Cab now, but it shows depth, and has a lot to offer for a California Cabernet at this price point. Includes a combined 25% Petit Verdot, Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, aged 21 months in 40% new French oak. (88 points)

2016 Three Finger Jack Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon East Side Ridge - California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $22

Rich, deep aromas of plums, blackberry, mixed with coffee, violets, clove, a warm and inviting nose. Full-bodied (15%), this is a full-on style with a rich, chewy feel, medium tannins, some moderating acidity, but it’s actually all balanced together quite well. There’s a nice combo of rich black cherries, plums and blackberries, and complex notes of scorched earth, clove, smoky cedar, violets, a littler earthy-mineral notes, too. Highly delicious but also quite complex, and far more interesting than a lot of California Cabernets in this price range. (88 points)

2014 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $75
Gorgeous aromatics, like waves of blackberries, red and black currants, along with violets, black pepper, red pepper flakes, complex earthy and coffee notes. Full-bodied, this Cab sports velvety tannins and bright acidity, and it’s balanced very nicely. Tart black cherries, juicy dark plums and blackberries, this wine is laced with complex notes of pencil shavings, pepper, leather, scorched earth. Accented well with dark chocolate and espresso notes. I’d love to see what this does in five years. Impressive Lake County Cabernet. Aged 23 months in 90% new French oak. (90 points) 


2013 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Latigo - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $50/375ml
Aromas of warm berry compote, along with pepper, earth, charcoal, lavender and clove. The palate is balanced nicely with velvety tannins, bright acidity, balanced sweetness. Juicy black cherries, roasted figs and dates, mixed well with elements of clove, anise, violets, sweet caramel. There’s also this lingering minerality, too. What a beautiful fortified dessert wine, this really surprised me. All Cabernet (from estate vineyards planted at about 2,200 feet), aged 29 months in new French oak, fortified with oak-aged brandy. 17.9% alcohol, 13% residual sugar. (91 points)

<85 points

N.V. Dark Horse Limited Brut Rosé - California
SRP $13
Nose shows strawberry candies, raspberries, red apple peel, with sliced cucumber and white pepper. Medium/light-bodied with crisp acidity and faint bubbles. Reed apple peels, white cherries, with spicy, herbal tones. Light, fun, simple.

Saturday, December 15, 2018

Wine Reviews: Sparkling Wines for the Holidays

So, the holiday season is in full swing, and, like every year, the bubbles abound. 

I drink Champagne (and, to a lesser extent, Champagne-method bubbles from other regions) year-round, but the average occurrence of bubbly-popping definitely spikes between Thanksgiving and New Year’s. 

In this report, Champagne gets its due, with some wines from the houses of Bruno Paillard and Laurent Perrier. Gloria Ferrer, the Sonoma bubbly powerhouse, offers up three budget-friendly offerings, and a Santa Barbara sparkler from Lucas & Lewellen impresses. Lastly, a few sparklers from Alsace deliver — Crémant d’Alsace being one of my favorite sources of inexpensive but delicious sparkling wines. 

All of the wines in this report were received as trade samples and tasted sighted. Happy holidays, and I hope the last few days of your 2018 include some lovely Champagne-method wines. 


N.V. Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut - California, Sonoma County
SRP: $22
Light copper color. Nose shows lemons, grapefruit, sea salt, white flowers, some musk notes. Crisp and bright on the palate with fresh acidity, fine bubbles, and very light biscuit notes. Green apples, apricots, wild strawberries, backed up with chalk dust and floral perfume notes. Fresh, bright, these are fun, accessible bubbles for the price. Mostly Pinot Noir with about 14% Chardonnay. (87 points) 


N.V. Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Noirs - California, Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $22
Pale copper color. Smells fresh and bright with red apples, raspberries, rose hips and some salted biscuits. Fresh and crisp with a salty, zippy, light appeal. Raspberries, red apple and lemon mix with white flowers, white pepper and sea salt notes. Some sugar adds to the texture and flavor, but it stays fresh and fun for the price. Includes a bit of Chardonnay, this spends 18 months on the lees. (87 points) 


N.V. Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Blancs - California, Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $22
Light yellow color. Aromas are tart and tangy with limes and green apples, light biscuits, sea salt, with some nettle and honeysuckle. Light and zesty on the palate with fine bubbles, this is fun and fresh with lines and green apples. Saline, chalk, lots of white flowers. Fresh and fun but significant complexity, this is a solid bubbly for holiday parties for sure. Aged two years on the lees, 100% Chardonnay. (88 points) 


2016 Lucas & Lewellen Brut - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $36
Deep yellow color. Nose shows a bunch of honey and graham cracker on top of yellow apples, apricots, and floral perfume. Ooh, this is nice on the palate, some rich texture with honeyed, baked apple elements nice hint of sweetness to the fruit but a brisk appeal. Flowers, graham crackers, honey, chalk, sea salt and toasted bread. A lot of flavor, depth and appeal here. 55% Pinot Noir, 45% Chardonnay. (90 points) 


N.V. Pierre Sparr Crémant d’Alsace Brut Réserve - France, Alsace, Crémant d'Alsace
SRP: $19
Deep yellow color. On the nose, lots of chalk, sea salt, crushed shells, with lemons, green apples, ginger and baguette notes. Super bright and zesty but some plumpness as well. Crunchy green apples, lemons, limes, doused in chalk, limestone and mountain stream. Ginger, musk, mineral, toasted baguette notes, all of this combines in a bracing but richly textured Crémant that is surprisingly good for the money. 80% Pinot Blanc and 20% Pinot Auxerrois. (89 points) 


N.V. Keuntz-Bas Crémant d'Alsace Brut Tradition - France, Alsace, Crémant d'Alsace
SRP: $18
Deep yellow color. The aromas show lots of honey, salted almond, biscuits, spiced white tea, with apricot and yellow apples. Crisp acidity frames the wine nicely but there’s a nice honeyed, biscuity richness as well. Bruised apple and apricot topped in honeyed tea, ginger, sea salt, minerals. Rich but zesty, lovely balance and complexity here, especially when you consider the price point. A blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc aged 18 months on the lees. (89 points) 


N.V. Laurent-Perrier Champagne Brut Nature “Ultra Brut” - France, Champagne
SRP: $80
Medium yellow color. Lots of yellow apples, apricots, lemon curd, with rich honey, toasted biscuits and salted butter, but also bright chalk and sea salt notes. Precise and brisk on the palate with focused acidity but plenty of texture and depth. Apricots, yellow apples, lemons, laced with sea salt, crushed shells, with rich, deep notes of honey, ginger snap, toasted biscuits. The focus, precision and minerality is really impressive, this wine is lip-smackingly tasty with significant complexity. 55% Chardonnay and 45% Pinot Noir, no dosage, aged six years on the lees. (91 points) 


N.V. Laurent-Perrier Champagne Harmony Demi-Sec - France, Champagne
SRP: $50
Medium yellow color. Nose shows rich honey, apricot marmalade, candied ginger and apple peel, some sea salt biscuit notes. Plump and sweet on the palate but shows vibrancy throughout, sugar cane and candied apple notes mix with chalk, dried flowers and limestone. This is rich and sweet but shows liveliness as well, and would pair nicely with pastries or after-dinner cheeses. 45% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, 15% Pinot Meunier, 45 g/l dosage. (89 points) 


N.V. Bruno Paillard Champagne Brut Premiere Cuvée - France, Champagne
SRP: $50
Rich yellow color. Nice mix of chalk, limestone, flowers, with lemons, apricots, and notes of biscuits and toasted almond. Brisk and vibrant on the palate with clean, crisp acidity and lots of minerals and chalk and crushed shells. Flavors of lemons, orange, apricot mix with biscuits, flowers, ginger, and minerals. Lovely, as usual, from Bruno Paillard. From 32 different villages, vinified separately, this wine consists of 45% Pinot Noir, 33% Chardonnay, 22% Pinot Meunier, with at least 25% reserve wine. Disgorged Sept. 2017. (90 points) 


N.V. Bruno Paillard Champagne Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Extra Brut - France, Champagne
SRP: $70
Deep yellow color. Brisk nose of sea salt, crushed chalk, white flowers and fresh biscuits on top of lemon curd, green apple, apricot. Pretty, clean and crisp on the palate with salty minerals and high acidity, but some nice depth and texture throughout. Lemon, crunchy apricot and green apples mixed with honey, chalk, mountain streams and minerals. Dry, crunchy, vibrant. Aged four years on the lees, with a 5 g/l dosage. Disgorged October 2016. (91 points)


This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Saturday, November 25, 2017

New Releases from California & Washington

Thanksgiving is over — whew! So, now we can talk about something besides wine and Thanksgiving dinner pairings, right? OK, good.

It’s been a busy fall samples season, and I’m still digging out, but I’ve been receiving a ton of California wines (which make up the bulk of this report) and want to highlight some good stuff.

This week includes some wines from Lake County institution Jeb Steele, who always manages to release impressive varietal wines, from various California appellations, for seriously good prices. I also have some delicious Zinfandels from Quivira, Ironstone, and Grgich Hills, sparklers from Mumm, and a few other wines from across the state. Lastly, I received three wines from Washington State producer Mercer, which I had not tried before, but found them very tasty.

All of these wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

White wines


2016 Steele Wines Pinot Blanc - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $19
Pale straw color. Nose shows lemon, peaches, yellow flowers, green onion and dandelion notes. On the palate, crisp acidity but a medium+ bodied feel with some waxy texture. Flavors of kumquat, apricot, lemon, notes of almonds and sea salt. Bold presence but stays a bit fresh. Fermented in stainless steel, aged in old oak barrels. (87 points)

2016 Steele Wines Viognier - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $19
Pale yellow color. Nose shows peaches, guava nectar, lemon, yellow flowers and honey, and interesting combo of richness and liveliness for a Viognier. Plump texture on the palate but there is a surprising amount of acidity as well, and plenty of textural depth. Apricot, peach, kumquat fruit, mixed with honey and yellow flowers. Tasty, lively, juicy, tropically delicious stuff. Stainless steel fermented, aged in old oak for four months, this is a seriously food-friendly California Viognier. (88 points)

2016 Ron Rubin Pinot Gris - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $20
Light yellow color. Peachy and bright on the nose, with daisies and honeysuckle, green apples, lemon zest. Fresh acidity, voluptuous mouthfeel, laced with orange, peach kiwi, lots of bright fruit backed up with some honey, dandelion, sea salt notes. Tasty stuff. (87 points)

2015 Grgich Hills Fumé Blanc Dry Sauvignon Blanc - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $31
Pale lemon color. Aromas of spices and herbs (oregano, lemongrass, white pepper) on top of guava and white peach. Plump texture, bright acidity, sets things nicely for the apricot, white peach and lemon fruit. Notes of honeysuckle, dandelion, baby’s breath, along with white pepper, oregano, sea salt, hints of cream and vanilla. Always a reliably delicious and intriguing Sauvignon Blanc, and 2015 is no exception. This spends six months on the lees in old oak. (90 points)

2016 Quivira Sauvignon Blanc Fig Tree - California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley
SRP: $24
Light yellow color. Bursting aromatics of guava, peaches, lemon curd, lemongrass and parsley. Punchy but zesty fruit (lemon, kumquat, guava) on a medium-bodied frame with fresh acidity. Notes of sea salt, nettle, white pepper, parsley, and chalky minerals add complexity. Impressive stuff, especially for the price. (90 points)

2016 Fields Family Wines Vermentino Delu Vineyard
- California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $21

Medium yellow color. Super peachy aromatics with lemon zest, orange peel, white and yellow flowers, cut stems, baby’s breath. Wow, this is so pretty and balanced, medium-bodied at 12% alcohol with zesty acidity. Lemon, lime, peaches, apricot, the fruit plays so well off of oyster shell, saline, chalk dusty, cut flower stems, a lot of depth and minerality in this wine. Wow, what an incredible California interpretation of this grape. Aged on the lees five months in old French oak. (92 points)

2016 Trefethen Chardonnay - California, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll
SRP: $38
Light yellow color. Aromas of lemon curd, yellow apples, lots of daisies and dandelions on top of nougat, roasted nuts and honey. Very exciting acidity on the palate with a medium-bodied frame, plenty of texture and fruit (yellow plums, lemon curd, bruised apples), but lots of freshness, too. Nougat, honeycomb and honeyed white tea notes add complexity. Rich in flavor but vibrant. Less than 10% maloactic fermentation, this spends nine months in about 20% new French oak. (89 points)

2015 La Follette Chardonnay - California, North Coast
SRP: $24
Bright gold color. Juicy yellow apples and baked pears, apricot jam, honeybutter, some floral perfume and roasted nuts. Medium+ bodied, moderate acidity that keeps this wine really fresh, along with green and yellow apples and pears. Notes of honey, salted almonds, cut flower stems. Rich flavor and wide appeal but some impressive freshness, too. (87 points)

2015 La Follette Chardonnay Sangiacomo Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $38
Rich yellow color. Rich aromatic display of apricot jam, lemon curd, buttercream, toasted almonds, and some dusty/chalky elements. Bold textural presence on the palate, moderating acidity keeps if lively, and lots of fruit (apricot, lemon pie, banana), mixed with chalky-floral notes and nougat, vanilla elements. Highly delicious but balanced. (90 points)

2015 Mercer Estates Sauvignon Blanc - Washington, Columbia Valley, Horse Heaven Hills
SRP: $15
Pale straw color. Nose of cut green peppers, lemon, kiwi, oregano, honeysuckle. Crisp acidity frames the palate nicely, medium-bodied, with lemon-lime, apricot, kiwi and sliced apples. Notes of white pepper and honeysuckle. Light, zesty, fun stuff. (86 points)

Sparkling wines

N.V. Mumm Napa Brut Prestige - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $22
Light yellow color. Smells like honey, floral perfume, baked apple, white peaches, some bread crumbs. Zesty on the palate but lots of fruit and texture (apples, peaches, apricots). Notes of honeysuckle, biscuits, chalk and lemon verbena add complexity. Consistent, reliable, a very good California sparkling wine for the price. 18 months on the lees. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Pinot Meunier. (88 points)

N.V. Mumm Napa Brut Rosé - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $24
Light strawberry color. Bright aromas of red apple peel, strawberry, some toasted baguette, dandelion, rose hips. On the palate, crisp acidity but some creamy texture and fruit-forward appeal, with red apple, wild raspberry, dandelion, honeysuckle, rose petals and freshly cut stems, juicy and fruity but lots of freshness too. High quality stuff for the price. 80/20 Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. (88 points)

Red wines

2015 Quivira Zinfandel - California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley
SRP: $25
Deep ruby color. Smells of tart raspberries, sweet plums, spicy herbs, cola, red and black licorice candies. Plump texture on the palate with medium acidity and some light grip from the tannins. Black cherries, raspberries, plum cake, mixed with root beer, sweet herbs, and a dusty/earthy note. Delicious yet vibrant. Co-fermented with a bit of Petite Sirah. (88 points)

2015 Quivira Zinfandel Anderson Ranch - California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley
SRP: $42
Bright purple color. Nose of blackberry jam, raspberries, loaded with complex earthy, spicy, tar, peppery notes, and some vanilla and coffee. Bold presence on the palate with serious structure from the tannins, surprisingly vibrant acidity, makes for great balance. Black cherry, raspberry, wild cherry, with tobacco smoke, charcoal, savory herbs, roses, some earthy-mineral tones. Flavorful, pretty, but can age nicely. (91 points)

2015 Ironstone Vineyards Zinfandel Old Vine Reserve Rous - California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $30
Rich purple color. Aromas of smooth black cherries, boysenberry, roasted fig, the fruit is suave, mixed with charcoal, sweet black licorice, coffee — wow. Smooth texture on the palate but solid tannic structure, moderating acidity, the balance is lovely. Tart black cherries, sweet blueberries, boysenberry jam, delicious fruit mixed with black licorice candy, coffee grounds, vanilla, and a cool earthy/graphite/mineral component. Delicious but quite complex, a Zinfandel that begs for food and conversation. From a Mokelumne River AVA vineyard first planted in 1909, this spends 10 months in French oak. (91 points)

2013 Grgich Hills Zinfandel - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $36
Medium ruby color. Aromas of tart black cherry, raspberry, red plums, along with leather and roses and eucalyptus – beautiful stuff to sniff. Fresh acidity and dusty tannins work so well on this wine, tinged with black and red berry fruit. Complex elements of coffee, tobacco, leather, roasted chestnut and vanilla. This really opens up with time and shows more pepper and floral elements. I’d love to age this for 3-6 years. (92 points)

2016 Ron Rubin Pinot Noir - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley SRP: $25
Light ruby color. Smells of sweet and tart red cherries and strawberries, along with spicy clove, cola, rhubarb. Medium-bodied, medium acidity, light tannins, a fresher, brighter take with strawberries and red cherries, backed up by cola, coffee, rhubarb and cinnamon notes. Fun, bright, food-friendly stuff but shows a solid amount of complexity for an early-drinking wine at this price point. (88 points)

2015 Steele Wines Cabernet Franc - California, North Coast, Lake County

SRP: $19
Light purple color. Tart blackberry, juicy black cherries on the nose, with enticing black pepper, soy, sweet eucalyptus and pine. Such lively, mouth-tingling acidity with moderate tannins for structure, and a frame of tart black cherries. Laced with white pepper, red pepper flakes, incense sticks, eucalyptus and cedar. A Loire throwback with juicy but tangy California fruit – this can improve for a few years easily. Sourced from the Stymie Bench Vineyard from within the Kelsey Bench Ava, this wine is aged 14 months in 30% new American oak. (90 points)

2015 Steele Wines Cabernet Sauvignon - California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $28
Light purple color. Nose of sweet plums and jammy blackberries and cherries, along with cocoa, violet petals, fall leaves, vanilla, lovely. Medium+ bodied with fleshy tannins and moderating acidity, juicy but bright with plums and blackberry fruit. Smooth and pretty with lots of spicy chewing tobacco, pepper, graphite and fallen leaves, mixing well with vanilla and cocoa. Delicious, and really good for the price. Aged 18 months in 30% new French and American oak. (89 points)

2013 Mi Sueño Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $75
Deep purple color. Dense aromas of crushed blackberries, blueberries and black currant jam, with waves of sweet mocha, coconut, eucalyptus and rich earth. Rich on the palate with suave tannins, medium-low acidity, and plenty of dark, rich fruit. Plenty of coconut, mocha, sweet herbs, eucalyptus, coffee – plenty of complex, earthy notes as well. Delicious now but can improve for years. All Cabernet aged 24 months in 55% new French oak. (91 points)

2015 Trefethen Cabernet Sauvignon Oak Knoll - California, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll
SRP: $60
Rich purple color. Dark and suave on the nose with black currants, blackberries, lots of earthy, charcoal, smoky elements and sweet cola. Rich texture, dark plum and currant fruit, structured tannins, but some vibrant acidity. Lots of complex vanilla, earth, charcoal, sweet pipe tobacco, library books, leather – a lot of interesting elements that will evolve well over time. Includes 6% Petit Verdot, 5% Merlot and 4% Malbec, this wine is aged 18 months in about half new oak (mix of French, American, Hungarian). (91 points)

2015 Mercer Estates Sharp Sisters - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $25
Rich, saucy aromas of plum cake and black cherry mixed with cocoa, pepper, save, violets. Plush fruit on the palate (black cherry, tart plums) on a frame of fleshy tannins and medium acidity, balanced quite nicely. Notes of savory spice and beef, the fruit is hedonistic but the vibrancy and food-friendly nature of the wine is really attractive. Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Grenache, Carignan, aged 18 months in French and American oak. (90 points)

2015 Mercer Estates Malbec - Washington, Columbia Valley, Horse Heaven Hills
SRP: $25
Deep purple. Nose of tart black currants and plums, sweet coffee, violets, magic markers, anise cookie. Full but plush with some structured tannins and bright acidity. Crunchy blackberry, blueberry and dark plums laced with anise, cedar, coffee, mocha. Suave, silky, delicious now but this could age. Includes 22% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 18 months in French and American oak. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.