Pinot Noir highlights: Santa Cruz Mountains

This the first in a series where I’m focusing on two of my favorite places in California when it comes to Pinot Noir.

While it was Sonoma that gave me the California Pinot itch many years ago, I’ve found my palate aligns perfectly with the Pinots of the Santa Cruz Mountains American Viticultural Area. Defined by higher altitude vineyards, grapevines here are coaxed to ripeness in the cool coastal mountains, and affected by the Pacific and nearby San Francisco Bay. Large diurnal temperature swings in the growing season, and warmer air getting trapped above the fog in winter, it all combines to give winegrowers a unique and exciting playing field.

Thomas Fogarty vines. Credit: Wines of the Santa Cruz Mountains

With a history going back to the late 1800s, this area has been recognized as its own AVA for more than 40 years. The region has expanded, with some 1,600 acres planted to wine grapes and some 300 growers today. This is a land of smaller wineries, lots, and total production. But the gems are not hard to find – they’re all over. 

These distinct conditions allow different sites in the AVA to express very different tones and flavors. But, overall, to describe Pinot from the Santa Cruz Mountains I’d use words like: airy, bright, tangy, spicy, herbal, high-toned, etc.

It is always a pleasure to return to historic producers like Mount Eden and Ridge, and I love me some spicy Santa Cruz Mountain Cabernets and creamy but zesty Chardonnays. But the Pinot just hits differently here. 

I’ve been floored by single-vineyard or blended wines from producers like Rhys, Beauregard, Kutch, and others. But to prove my point about the exception nature of these Pinot Noirs, I have three wines this week from producers that are new to me. From Thomas Fogarty, Lester Estate, and Sante Arcangeli Family, these wines offer a great window into what makes this region special. If you are yet to dig deep here, and you’re for of Pinot, there’s plenty to explore in the Santa Cruz Mountains.

These wines were received as samples and tasted single-blind.

2019 Thomas Fogarty Pinot Noir Windy Hill Vineyard - USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains

SRP: $85
Bright ruby color. The nose sports a mix of cool black and red cherries along with spiced cranberry relish and tones of rose petals, sage, herbal tea, black pepper, some leather – really complex and the aromas make me salivate. The palate shows moderate tannins and an airy but punchy feel. Tart black cherries, tangy raspberries, crunchy cranberries, the fruit is beautiful and laced with elements of minerals, warm clay, potting soil, fallen leaves, dried rose petals. Crisp, deep, complex, lasting. (93 points)

2019 Thomas Fogarty Pinot Noir Will's Cabin Vineyard - USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains
SRP: $85
Medium ruby color. The aromas are gorgeous, with airy raspberries and strawberries along with juicy black cherries. Notes of sage, earth, forest floor, rhubarb, rose petals, and pine resin add a lot of complexity. The palate is so crisp and effortless, with dusty tannins and brisk acidity – structured but super fresh. Tangy cranberries, fresh raspberries, and crunchy red cherries offer a lot to enjoy, and the fruit is backed up by tones of dusty earth, savory herbs, mushrooms, dried rose petals, black tea. A lot going on but it’s seamlessly integrated, and it should age wonderfully. (93 points)

2021 Lester Estate Wines Pinot Noir Traviso - USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains
SRP: $57

Deep ruby. Gorgeous aromatics on display, with the freshest raspberries and strawberries, tangy pomegranate, all backed up by complex notes of violets, rhubarb, white pepper, and all sorts of clay and tilled soil. The palate is juicy, spicy, and tangy, with structured but refined tannins on a bed of brisk acidity. The cherry, cranberry, and raspberry fruit is juicy but tart, and interwoven with complex vibes of rhubarb, clove, leather, clay, and rich soil. I get some mineral and rocky elements that last long onto the finish. So lovely right out of the gate, but this will get even more refined, complex, and integrated over the next five years. (94 points)

2019 Lester Estate Wines Pinot Noir Mercurio - USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains
SRP: $57
Dark ruby color. Deep but inviting aromatics of cranberry and raspberry compote, with all sorts of spicy-herbal complexities: sage, pepper, tobacco, rhubarb, these breezy-floral tones, it’s all quite lovely. The palate sports lovely balance between the smooth tannins and crisp acidity, with gushing, tangy fruit (raspberries, red cherries, cranberries). The non-fruit elements really shine and define this wine’s flavor profile, with these stony minerals and earth, rhubarb and white pepper, and all sorts of floral nuances. Focused and refined already but this has a long life ahead of it. (93 points)

2021 Sante Arcangeli Family Wines Pinot Noir Split Rail Vineyard - USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains
SRP: $60
Light ruby color. Smells so juicy and alive, with tangy red cherries, wild raspberries, and a well-blended host of rhubarb, spiced tea, tobacco, earth. Lots of floral and potpourri tones to parse through as well – basically, aromatically awesome. Ripe but nuanced on the palate with brisk acidity and suave tannins. Pretty, tangy red fruits (red currants, cherries, strawberries), with nuances of light roast coffee, dusty earth, dried roses, rhubarb, all sorts of cool stuff going on. A crystalline focus, bright and expressive in its youth, but I’d love to see this in five years. (94 points) 

Beauregard: Old Guard Santa Cruz Producer Maintains Cutting-Edge Quality Wines

As a surfer, Santa Cruz was a religious pilgrimage. As a wine lover, the Santa Cruz Mountains wines are also awe-inducing. The entire region is a freak of raw nature. The waves are gnarly, the water and winds cold, the mountains steep. But this leads to a maze of soils and microclimates perfect for all sorts of wine grapes. Santa Cruz Mountain wines, combining higher elevation with the cold and fog from the Pacific Ocean, are known and loved for their combination of tremendous freshness, complexity, and structure for aging. Sure, there is plenty of juicy and delicious fruit, but these vibrant wines offer something for pretty much every kind of palate.

This is why I came to Santa Cruz - big ass cold waves! But there's (wine) gold in them thar inland hills, too. Incredible wines.

I recently tasted through a host of wines from Beauregard Vineyards, wines that remind me why I love this region. Beauregard is old school Santa Cruz royalty. The estate dates back to 1945, when Deputy Sheriff Amos Beauregard bought a dozen acres of Pinot noir, Chardonnay, Cabernet and Zinfandel vines in Bonny Doon. This southwest slope sits at 1,700 to 1,850 feet in elevation and was first planted to grapevines in 1880.

Elevation, Pacific Ocean influence and unique soils make Ben
Lemond Mountain a very special American Viticultural Area.

Jim Beauregard, Amos’ grandson, was pivotal in the establishment of the Ben Lemond Mountain American Viticultural Area (AVA), in 1983. He forged a reputation for his wines and their site-specific nature. Today, fourth-generation winemaker Ryan Beauregard holds the reins. And, as this tasting demonstrated, the future of Santa Cruz Mountain wines is in very good hands.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2013 Beauregard Vineyards Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature - California, San Francisco Bay, Ben Lomond Mountain

SRP: $80
Medium gold color. Incredible aromatics of lemon curd, lime juice, chalk dust, pizza dough, floral perfume. Pristine and clean on the palate with bracing acidity, but that’s balanced out by lots of fruit (white peach, lime, honeydew). Chalk dust, lots of sea salt raw almond, green tea, toasted baguette, I even get some notes of cinnamon, ginger and white pepper, which add an interesting mix. Long, mineral-encrusted finish. Such a pretty wine, and so crisp, an intriguing California sparkler. All Chardonnay, no dosage, disgorged January 2017. (92 points)

2014 Beauregard Vineyards Pinot Gris Orange Wine Regan Vineyards - California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains

SRP: $30
Dark copper/light watermelon color. Fascinating notes: lemon curd, sour cherries, red apple peel, honeycomb, dried apricot, a bit of sea brine — almost like an old world Chenin or some Jura characteristics. Awesome. Light bodied at just under 12% but lots going on here. Waxy texture, brisk acidity, a streak of saline and mineral qualities, along with white cherries, wild strawberries, mixed with honey and herbal tea elements. Fascinating but so delicious. (90 points)

2015 Beauregard Vineyards Chardonnay Bald Mountain Vineyard - California, San Francisco Bay, Ben Lomond Mountain

SRP: $50
Light yellow color. Chablis-like in its extreme freshness, lemon/lime explosion, and lots of saline and mineral notes, but also some white tea and honey notes. Medium-bodied but shows plenty of power, while brisk acidity keeps this graceful. White peach, drizzled with lime, the fruit is topped in white tea, honeysuckle, chalk dust, crushed shells, hints of almond and nougat. Finishes vibrant, crisp and pretty. A gorgeous Santa Cruz Mountain Chardonnay that should improve in the cellar for sure. (93 points)

2015 Beauregard Vineyards Chardonnay Beauregard Ranch - California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains, Ben Lemond Mountain

SRP: $55
Medium yellow color. Bright and fresh and pure on the nose with pretty lemons, yellow apples, peaches, topped with honeycomb, floral perfume, chalk dust, lots going on here. Clean, clear, pretty with precise acidity on a medium-bodied frame. Fresh limes mix with white peach and creamy yellow apple, the fruit is mixed with chalk dust, minerals and mountain stream freshness. A delicious, electric and pristine Santa Cruz Mountain Chardonnay. (93 points)

2014 Beauregard Vineyards Pinot Noir Coast Grade Vineyard - California, San Francisco Bay, Ben Lomond Mountain

SRP: $60
Light ruby color. Bursts with juicy cherries, raspberries, strawberry, along with herbal tea, pepper, roses, rhubarb — wow! Medium-bodied (13.7%) with structured but accessible tannins, crisp acidity. The fruit is ripe but brisk (cherry, red apple, strawberry) and laced with rhubarb, white pepper, roses, complex earthy and clove elements. Packed with flavor but elegant as well. Wow, this is a striking, delicious and enthralling Pinot Noir. (93 points)

2014 Beauregard Vineyards Pinot Noir Beauregard Ranch - California, San Francisco Bay, Ben Lomond Mountain

SRP: $60
Light ruby color. Gorgeous aromatic display: red rose, raspberry leaf, white pepper, rhubarb and clove on top of tart raspberries, strawberries and cherries. Crisp acidity pervades this wine. Medium-bodied (12.9% alcohol) with dusty tannins that provide enough structure. Crisp raspberries, chilled strawberries, tart cherries, waves of pure fruit, laced with rose hips, white pepper, sage and rhubarb. So much going on here but it’s also so easy to drink and absolutely delicious. Wow. (94 points)

2013 Beauregard Vineyards Syrah Zayante Vineyard - California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains

SRP: $35
Light purple color. Dark and complex on the nose, needs air but has a lot to show: black cherry, tart black currant, laced with peppered bacon, dark earth, violets, and a saucy spice element. Medium+ bodied, this has a lot of tannic backbone but it’s not dense, it stays fresh with the acidity, shows a core of black cherry and dark currant fruit, juicy but vibrant, and lots of pepper, charcoal, mushroom and soy, clove and violet petals. Lots going on here, and it’ll do wonders with five or six years, I think. Aged in old French and 30% new American oak. (91 points)

2013 Beauregard Vineyards Zinfandel Beauregard Ranch - California, San Francisco Bay, Ben Lomond Mountain

SRP: $35
Medium ruby color. Surprisingly airy and floral, this is an elegant, aromatic Zinfandel but lots of fruit, too (juicy raspberries and black cherries), loaded with coffee, dark floral tones, sweet clove, a tobacco and eucalyptus note, hints of sweet coconut. Full-bodied but not fat or heavy at all, the tannins provide silky structure and the acidity is gorgeous in its vibrancy. Tart raspberries mix with juicy black cherries, and I get notes of coffee grounds, cola, coconut, with savory herbs and spice tones. An elegant and refined Zin that is delicious now but should do wonders in the cellar. Aged in 50% new American oak. (91+ points)

2013 Beauregard Vineyards Merlot Zayante Vineyard - California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains

SRP: $37
Deep ruby color. Very pretty aromas of fresh red plums, juicy currants, some black cherry, this shows lots of floral and sweet herbal notes as well. On the palate this is fresh and vibrant, but shows structured tannins, matched with crisp acidity. The fruit is ripe and tangy and red, and laced with tobacco, rose petal, potting soil and pepper, touched with a bit of clove and coffee. Beautiful stuff now but this will turn even more elegant and expressive over the next five to eight years. From a SW-facing slope planted in 1988, sits between 1,100 and 1,300 feet. Aged in 40% new American oak. (92 points)

2013 Beauregard Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Beauregard Ranch - California, San Francisco Bay, Ben Lomond Mountain

SRP: $100
Medium purple color. Aromas of saucy currants and back cherries, along with graphite, tobacco and vanilla notes. Well-built on the palate with some solid grip to the tannins but fresh acidity keeps it vibrant. Interesting mix of fruit (tart blueberry, black cherry, red currant), and the fruit is laced with notes of violets, loamy soil, sage, roasted chestnut and graphite. Integrated elements of roasted coffee and vanilla. Richly flavorful, deep in structure, but also impressive in its freshness. This should age wonderfully for at least a decade. Aged 32 months in 40% new French oak. (92 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

The Best California Chardonnay I’ve Tasted All Year

I taste a ton of California Chardonnay each year, from my own personal collection and samples for tasting reports on the daily wine blog Terroirist. I like all styles of Chardonnay, from stainless steel-fermented, mineral-driven zingers to new oak-laden, creamy, nougaty richness, and everything in between.

But I recently tasted a new (both to me, and the market) Chardonnay that completely floored me. It’s the 2014 Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay from Kutch and it’s fucking awesome.

Jamie Kutch has been producing stellar Pinot Noirs from selected sites across Northern California for a decade now, but the 2014 was his first shot at Chardonnay. As a Chard rookie, Jamie stepped up to the plate and hit a goddamn homerun.

For a great piece on what brought Jamie Kutch, a former Wall Street dude, to make stellar wines, check out this great profile from Lauren Mowery.

Here are my notes on this exceptional Chard…

2014 Kutch Chardonnay – California, Santa Cruz Mountains
$42
Medium yellow color. What a crazy/awesome aromatic burst: lemon curd, lime peel, papaya, topped with crushed shells, chalk dusty, mountain stream, integrated notes of honeyed tea and toasted almond. Holy smokes. On the palate, this is medium/light bodied but not lacking in mouthfeel. So tangy and lively with its acidity, but balanced by richness of fruit (lemon curd, lime peel, tangerine). I get a complex host of sea salt, almond, floral perfume, chalk dust, mineral water, and kisses of cinnamon and green tea. Precise and nervy but so damned delicious, it tingles the palate for so long after the sip goes down. One of the most dynamic, thrilling and profound America Chardonnays I have tasted in a long time. A blend of two sites, Trout Gulch and Zayanta, this is barrel fermented (20% new oak) and aged 18 months. (95 points)

If you’re looking to buy Jamie’s wines, you can sign up for Kutch’s mailing list.

Wine Reviews: Pinot Noir from California and Oregon

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

You’ve likely been bombarded by media about Thanksgiving wine pairings. There’s no right or wrong way to do this. Just open up all sorts of bottles and let the crowd and food sort it out.

But, thinking back over the past few Thanksgiving meals, I can’t remember a dinner that lacked at least one California Pinot Noir. Willamette Valley, and of course Burgundy, will also do. For me, Pinot Noir exudes crisp autumn weather and makes me hunger for warm, hearty foods.

A lot of 2014 California Pinot Noirs are hitting shelves, and they’re tasting darn good — lots of freshness and red fruits but some show serious concentration.

This tasting includes a host of Pinots from Etude, which has been producing vibrant Carneros Pinot Noir for three decades. In recent years, they’ve expanded into a range of Pinot Noirs from other sites in California (and even a Willamette Pinot and a zinger from New Zealand). The wines taste so site-specific, and each stood out as unique in a single-blind tasting, but they maintain a house style focused on crisp acidity, juicy red fruit and lots of spice. This was my first time tasting the Willamette Valley Pinots from Lenne, a producer focused on two estate Pinot Noirs from a site near the town of Yamhill. (I’m impressed.) And we also have some late releases from Clos de La Tech and Holman Ranch.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted single blind.

2010 Clos De La Tech Pinot Noir - California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
SRP: $42
Dark ruby color. Aromatically bursting with savory and spicy elements, like spiced coffee, old library books and black tea, on top of black cherries and raspberry jam. Full-bodied with some sturdy structure to the tannins, and the wine is framed by vibrant acidity. Dark, concentrated cherry and plum fruit, with dark chocolate, coffee, clove, smashed rocks, and a complex host of herbal and savory spices. Needs time to open up, or time in the cellar, but this is a bold yet complex Pinot. Impressive. Plenty of life ahead. Aged 12 months in 3/4 new French oak. (92 points)

2014 Etude Pinot Noir Bannockburn - New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Bannockburn
SRP: $60
Vibrant ruby color. Smells like cool raspberries and strawberries with cola, rhubarb, white pepper and sage — complex and gorgeous aromas. Maintains lively acidity and freshness throughout, while sporting structured but smooth tannins. Tart strawberries and wild raspberry fruit is pure and crisp, and laced with complex elements of raspberry leaf tea, savory mushroom, topsoil, rose petals, warm spices. Gorgeous silky texture on the palate. I had no idea a New Zealand Pinot made it into this single-blind tasting, and this had be perplexed as to its origin but totally swooning over its deliciousness and complexity. I’d love to taste this in three to five. (93 points)

2014 Etude Pinot Noir Grace Benoist Ranch - California, Napa/Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $45
Light ruby color. Sweet but tart red and black cherry fruit on the nose, along with rhubarb, cola and eucalyptus and pumpkin pie spice. Full-bodiedwith moderately bright acid, velvety mouthfeel but some grip from the dry tannins. Dark cherry and plum, the fruit is juicy but a bit compact, and needs time to coax out the sweet floral, cinnamon, cocoa and mushroom notes. A sense of graphite and stony minerality lingers on the finish. Very nice but it’ll be better in a few years. Aged 12 months in 1/4 new French oak. (89 points)

2014 Etude Pinot Noir Ellenbach - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $60
Deep ruby color. Aromas of sweet, chewy cherries and raspberry jam, with tobacco, cola and rooibos tea. Tart acidity, dusty tannins provide enough structure, and there are loads of sweet black cherries and raspberry jam flavors on the palate. Cola, rhubarb, rose petals, lots of other stuff going on, some clove and pine. Rich and chewy but stays fresh. Should evolve nicely over the next few years. (90 points)

2014 Etude Pinot Noir Fiddlestix Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
SRP: $45
Deep ruby/light purple color. Smells like a mix of tart cherries and raspberry jam coated in black tea and spicy tobacco. Full-bodied but tart acidity, this is a richer, more extracted Pinot but the acidity keeps it vibrant. Red plums, raspberry jam, some darker cherry fruit, add in some earth, mocha and herbal spice tea. Gets significantly better with air — I’d like to revisit in two or three years. Aged 12 months in 1/4 new French oak. (90 points)

2014 Etude Pinot Noir North Canyon Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $45
Bright ruby color. Aromas of chilled raspberries, juicy strawberries and pomegranate, mixed with rose hips, and some warm cinnamon spices — elegant and deep aromas that take time to fully develop. Medium/full-bodied with a dusty tannic structure, full of tingling acidity. Juicy black cherries and crunchy pomegranates blend with flavors of cherry wood, cedar, tobacco shop and allspice. Finishes long and crisp, more savory spices and mushroom and wet forest come out with air.. Great now but good near-term ager. 10 months in ¼ new French oak. (91 points)

2014 Etude Pinot Noir Yamhilll Vista Vineyard - Oregon, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton
SRP: $60
Medium ruby color. Smells of juicy strawberries, tart red currants, dusty earth, leather and rhubarb. Fleshy texture will a full body and moderate acidity and medium tannin. Juicy raspberries and strawberry jams, with rose petals, sweet coffee, rhubarb pie and caramel. Finishes with earthy spice. Delish, ready to go, but could age in the near term. Aged 13 months in 1/3 new French oak. (89 points)

2014 FEL Pinot Noir Savoy Vineyard - California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $70
Deep ruby color. Smells of sweet cherries and strawberries, along with rose hops, tobacco, pickling spices and more savory notes of tilled soil and mushroom. Medium-full-bodied with smooth but structured tannins and moderately crisp acidity for balance. The tart strawberries mix with richer black cherry notes – laced with elements of soy, mushroom, pipe tobacco and earth, along with some intermingled notes of cigar box and light roast coffee. Delicious stuff now but it should evolve nicely over the next few years. Aged 15 months in French oak barrels, 53% new. (91 points)

2012 Holman Ranch Pinot Noir - California, Central Coast, Carmel Valley
SRP: $35
Light raspberry color. Smells of tart strawberries, cherries, and red apple peel topped with pepper, rhubarb, fennel and cola. Fresh acidity, light-medium-bodied (12.8% alcohol) with fine tannins that still provide structure. A lighter, brisk approach but still plenty of texture and flavors. Sour cherries, watermelon, wild strawberries, the tart fruit is laced with notes of tobacco, pepper and dusty earth, just a hint of cola. Vibrant, fresh, tangy, showing wonderfully right out of the bottle. (89 points)

2015 Inconceivable Wines Pinot Noir The Fog Prince - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $25
Dark ruby color. Aromas of sweet red cherries, raspberry jam, cola, vanilla and sweet pipe tobacco. On the palate this shows light tannins, a slightly chewy texture and some fresh acidity. Sweet/sour cherries and tangy raspberries blend nicely with some cola, roses, toffee and espresso notes. An easy-drinking style but very delicious, and a good value. Aged 10 months in 60% new French oak. (88 points)

2013 Lenne Pinot Noir LeNez - Oregon, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton

The whole giant nose on the label thing is kind of weird, but these are legit Pinots.

SRP: $30
Pale ruby. Aromas of sour cherries, tart blueberries and black cherries, along with sage and pepper and mushroom/earth. Medium-bodied, moderate acidity. Bright red fruit gushes across the palate (strawberries, wild raspberries) with notes of herbal tea, rose hips, spiced cranberry sauce, tilled soil and eucalyptus. Tart, vibrant, refreshing finish, yet this has a lot of concentration for the cellar. So pretty, and great value. Aged in about 1/4 new oak, 13% alcohol, this is a blend of each clone planted on Lenne’s estate vineyard. (90 points)

2013 Lenne Estate Pinot Noir - Oregon, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton
SRP: $45
Pale ruby. Elegant, vibrant red fruit aromas with lots of rose hips, white pepper and such gorgeous floral complexity. Medium-bodied, so juicy and bright with some moderately grippy tannic structure and lip-smacking acidity. Tart cherries, raspberries, wild strawberry, the fruit is so damned vibrant and delicious, and laced with lots of roses, violets and white mushrooms. Velvety and sporting serious grip, this is also silky and elegant. An exciting Pinot Noir. More tar and cedar on this one (1/3 new oak) but it’s woven in expertly. Gorgeous stuff that will improve for four or five years easily. (92 points)

2014 Lenne Estate Pinot Noir - Oregon, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton
SRP: $38
Bright ruby color. Juicy black cherries mix with red currant, topped with lots of violets, soil, hints of leather and cocoa. Medium/full-bodied with structured but accessible tannin and moderate but refreshing acidity. Very cool mix of black and sour red cherries, along with notes of roses, violets, chestnut and savory spice. Some cedar and cocoa from the oak, but it’s balanced nicely. A dusty mineral and soil element comes out with time. Delicious now but built for a solid life in the cellar. (92 points)

2014 Nielson by Byron Pinot Noir - California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
SRP: $45
Deep ruby color. Aromas of chilled but juicy red berries (strawberry, cherry, raspberry) along with a complexity of herbal and spice elements (mint, white pepper, rhubarb). Full-bodied but smooth and velvety, the chewy tannins and medium acidity make this pleasant and approachable. Juicy cherries, raspberries and jammy strawberries, the fruit is juicy and ripe but not heavy. I get sage, violets, rhubarb and white pepper notes. Touched with cedar and vanilla, but those elements are woven in nicely. Rich, velvety but also bright and leaves the palate feeling refreshed. Aged 15 months in 40% new oak. (89 points)

California Pinot Noirs Shine in 2012

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Lots of winemakers from across California have praised the 2012 vintage. The more Pinot Noirs from 2012 I taste, the more I understand their joy. Since my last post on California Pinot Noirs this summer, I’ve tasted a bunch of them with a few gems.

This report features a few exciting wines from 2012, as well as some from the leaner, tangier 2011 vintage, and a pair of late releases from 2009.

All these wines were received as trade samples and tasted single-blind unless otherwise noted.

2012 Tolosa Winery Pinot Noir Estate - California, Central Coast, Edna Valley

SRP: $32

Bright ruby color. Smells like rose hips, pepper and green herbs sprinkled on top of cranberries and wild strawberries. Medium-bodied with light tannins and a smooth and silky approach. Crunchy red berry fruit, some cherry pie, mix in some pepper, rhubarb and cardamom. Roses and vanilla coffee on the finish. Smooth and creamy and delicious, nice mix of fruit and earthy flavors. Aged 11 months in 1/3 new French oak. (87 points)

2012 Niner Wine Estates Pinot Noir Edna Valley - California, Central Coast, Edna Valley

SRP: $35

Dark ruby/light purple color. Nose shows roasted plums, juicy black cherries, some clove, cinnamon and sweet violets. On the palate, the wine is somehow both smooth and chewy at the same time, boasting tons of fruit (black cherries, blackberries, strawberry pie) velvety and smooth but rich. I love the clove, dark chocolate and sweet cola notes, but I also get some graphite and tobacco elements that add complexity. Delicious, open for business, but not a simple fruit bomb. Spends 10 months in 30% new French oak. (89 points)

2012 Dragonette Cellars Pinot Noir Radian Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills

SRP: $54

Dark ruby colored. Aromas pop out of the glass: red cherries, sweet cranberry sauce, notes of cola, rose petals and spicy incense sticks. On the palate, red and black cherries, red currants, the fruit is juicy but tart and laced with graphite, tobacco and coffee. Saucy, rich and bold but kept fresh by medium acid. Long finish of cola, soy sauce and loamy soil. Deep, long, complex, plenty of time to unwind. Aged 15 months in 22% new French oak. (91 points)

2011 Isabel Mondavi Pinot Noir - California, Napa, Carneros

SRP: $40

Bright ruby-purple color in the glass. Nose shows red and black currants, some sweet roses, earth and cedar tones, a bit of caramel. On the palate, this wine shows a creamy, silky mouthfeel, medium tannins and acid, and the combination leads the wine to glide across the palate. Fresh currants, red and black cherries, the fruit is pure and layered. Notes of fall leaves, sage and chestnut round add a good twist. I also get some mineral and black tea elements. I’d drink this in the near term because it’s so fresh and lively, but it’s high quality stuff. (90 points)

2012 Frank Family Vineyards Pinot Noir - California, Napa, Carneros

SRP: $35

Light ruby color. On the nose I get bright cherries, raspberries, roses and violets along with sweet clove, cola and roasted coffee. Medium tannin, in sync with the acid, this wine has a mouthfeel made of equal parts dusty, chewy and smooth. The black cherry, plums and raspberry fruit is tart but quite ripe, backed up by notes of coffee, caramel, shaved dark chocolate and black tea. A wide-open Pinot with a lot of attractive qualities. Aged 10 months in 35% new French oak. (88 points)

2012 Paul Dolan Vineyards Pinot Noir - California, North Coast, Potter Valley

SRP: $30

Bright medium ruby color. Chilled strawberries and raspberries on the nose, lovely rose and potting soil notes, some slight herbal notes. Bright and lively on the palate, with fine tannins, medium acid and a mouthfeel equal parts zesty and silky. Juicy, cool, with notes of sweet herbs, cola, and dusty soil, tobacco. Complex yet more restrained in character, although not lacking in flavor or personality. (90 points)

2009 Clos De La Tech Pinot Noir Domaine Lois Louise - California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains

SRP: $42

Light cherry colored. On the nose I get red currants and strawberries, a hint of blueberry, with some notes of underbrush, clay soil, roses and sweet cinnamon. On the palate, tart acid combines with some reasonably tight tannins yet a smooth mouthfeel. Black cherries, currants, some tart blueberries, this is also a deeply floral wine with accents of dusty soil, dark chocolate, smoke and toast. Great concentration, cellar-worthy, but maintains smoothness and elegance despite the new oak. I’d love to try this again in four or five years. Aged 18 months in 75% new French oak and two-and-a-half years in bottle before release. (90 points)

2009 Clos De La Tech Pinot Noir Domaine Valeta Sunny Slope - California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains

SRP: $62

More forward on the nose, jumps out of the glass with strawberries and raspberries, also some sweet floral perfume, dandelion, tilled soil and a hint of grilled herbs. Fine tannins, still very structured, moderate acid for balance. Ripe red cherries and strawberries abound, not as smoky or earthy as the Domaine Louise, much more floral and fresh with violets, black tea and potpourri. All sorts of sweet and spicy notes that need time to grow into their own. Focused but still structured, the end result is an elegant wine with cellar capability. Aged 18 months in 75% new French oak and two-and-a-half years in bottle before release. (91 points)

2011 Foppiano Pinot Noir Estate - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

SRP: $35

Vibrant ruby color. Juicy raspberries and tart cherries on the nose, laced with lots of herbs and spices (rhubarb, white pepper, sage) and a sweet floral accent. Bright and crunchy on the palate, but bold as mouth-coating as well, with a nice mix of tangy cherries and rich black cherries and plums. Lots of white pepper, rhubarb, spicy oregano, backed up by some light roast coffee, roses and loamy soil. A Pinot Noir that covers all the bases, and does it well. Aged in French oak, 25% new. (90 points)

2012 Gundlach Bundschu Pinot Noir Estate Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $37

Light medium ruby color. Vibrant cherries on the nose, cool currants, some charcoal and clove mixed in with caramel. Full and fruity on the palate with chewy tannins and medium+ acid. Pure black cherries and tart blueberries, add in some earth, gravel. and dusty library notes with cocoa powder and vanilla cola. Silky, velvety, with a long and rich finish. Aged 10 months in 40% new French oak. (89 points)

2011 Hatton Daniels Pinot Noir Sangiacomo Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $45

Light ruby colored. Lots of earth and spices elements on the nose (rose hips, sage, white pepper, dusty soil) over top of tart cranberries and wild strawberries. On the palate, this is bright and crisp with focused acid and fine-grained tannins. The cranberry, wild cherry and raspberry fruit is crunchy and juicy, and I pick up a range of non-fruit complexities: sage, oregano, cedar, light-roast coffee. Some toffee and vanilla but slight and woven in well. Long, clean with roses and lavender on the finish. Lighter bodied than the 2012 but still very complex. (90 points)

2012 Hatton Daniels Pinot Noir Sangiacomo Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $45

Clean light ruby colored. Gorgeous nose of rose and violet-tinged earth, dusted over top of red cherry and plum fruit of the tangy and vibrant variety. So alive on the palate with tart acid, dusty tannins of medium strength a silky but fresh mouthfeel. Red currants, cherries, crunchy plums accented by sweet pipe tobacco, fennel, sage. Underlying notes of cherry fountain soda and dried roses. Complex and full yet reserved and so food-friendly. Seems ready now but has the ability to develop for sure. 13.2% alcohol. (91 points)

2012 Sojourn Pinot Noir Sangiacomo Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $54

Moderate ruby color. Smells savory and bright at the same time, with red currants, mulled raspberries, juicy wild strawberries, some rhubarb pie, notes of chewing tobacco and pine sap.

On the palate, a forward style full of raspberry jam, wild strawberries and some cherry-rhubarb pie. Velvety tannins, medium acid, the fruit is juicy and chewy, backed up by spice and smoke notes. The fruit is a bit sweeter and jammier than the other Sonoma Coast pinots in this group, but it’s balanced a bit by the acid and non-fruit qualities. Notes of caramel and chestnut (50% new oak) linger onto the finish. Drinks well now but could do well over the next few years. A bold style, but very well done. (91 points)

2012 Sojourn Pinot Noir Gap's Crown Vineyard Sonoma Coast - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $54

Vibrant dark ruby colored. Aromas of black cherries and saucy plums, add in some cola, cinnamon and clove, some smoke and earth. Firm tannic structure, some medium acid. Deep, concentrated core of fruit (black cherry and blackberry) a bit roasted but still tart. I also get some charcoal pit, roasted nuts, loamy soil and spice elements (maybe clove and black licorice). Initially this struck me as a bit too intense, but air tones it down. Long, velvety and nutty (50% new oak) on the finish. I’d lay off this for two years or so. A beautiful albeit boisterous Pinot. (92 points)

I'd never heard of this producer before. I'm paying attention now.

2012 La Pitchoune Pinot Noir - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $59

Clear-bright ruby. Nose of cranberries and wild cherries, some roses, white pepper, pickle, clove and cinnamon notes blend in well, adding nuance and complexity to the aromatic package. A very bright and clean Pinot, with dusty tannins of moderate strength and lively acid that whisks the wine over the palate. Bright cherries, wild strawberries, some spiced cranberry jam, elements of tobacco and rose hips blend with mocha and toasted nuts. Seems ready to go, but will surely improve and unwind over the next few years. Aged 11 months in 25% new French oak. (91 points)

2013 La Pitchoune Pinot Noir Vin Gris - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $29

This rosé was tasted sighted. Pale salmon color. Amazingly fresh on the nose, with wild strawberry and watermelon rind, some crusted, salty jetty rocks (a scent I know well. Very crisp acid but the fruit is generous and rolls across the palate in waves: white cherries, strawberries, key lime, some richer papaya and melon chunks. Underlying mineral notes pop out from the fruit while salty notes come out on the finish. Racy, clean, a very exciting rosé. (90 points)