Hickinbothom's Clarendon Vineyard is Producing Killer Aussie Reds

Hickinbotham Clarendon Vineyard is the Australian jewel in the crown of California’s Jackson Family Wines. Purchased in 2012, the winemaking is a coordinated effort between Chris Carpenter (of Napa Cab fame) and distinguished Australian winemaker Charlie Seppelt. 

The site, which sits above the Onkaparinga River, has a long history, as vines were first planted in this area in the mid-1800s. Alan Hickinbotham established the company in 1971, planting dry-farmed Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz on these McLaren Vale slopes.

I recently received four 2015 reds from Hickinbothom, and was impressed yet again with these wines. Sure, they are packed with rich, dark fruit, but they show so much more than that. Depth, complexity, aging potential, vibrant acidity, complex non-fruit elements, these are fascinating wines that, I think, deserve serious respect. The Peake Cabernet was one of the most penetratingly beautiful Aussie wines I’ve tasted in quite a while.

I received these wines as samples and tasted them single blind.

2015 Hickinbotham Merlot The Revivalist - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $75
Light purple color. Nose shows tart but deep fruit (blueberry, dark plum, roasted fig) along with waves of eucalyptus, mint and earthy-tobacco notes. Full and structured with a chewy feel but underlying acidity keeps it fresh. Blackberry, tart blueberry, gushing fruit but so pure and vibrant. Notes of dusty earth, minerals, violets, eucalyptus and mint, with vanilla and coffee woven in well, and some sweet pipe tobacco on the finish. I’d love to bury a bottle of this for 6-10 years, the quality is that high, but it’s also delicious young. All Merlot. (92 points)

2015 Hickinbotham Shiraz Brooks Road - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $75
Bold purple color. On the nose: tart black currants, roasted fig, saucy blackberries, violets, eucalyptus, black pepper glaze, and some vanilla. Full-bodied with solid tannins for structure (but not harsh) and mildly fresh acidity. Blackberry, blueberry and cassis, the fruit is suave and delicious and loaded with violets, cocoa, black pepper, eucalyptus, dark chocolate, earthy and tar tones. Great stuff, but this needs a solid decant or, preferably, a few years of sleep. All Shiraz. (92 points)

2015 Hickinbotham Cabernet Sauvignon Trueman - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $75
Light purple color. Deep and gorgeous nose of rich plums and black currants, but the fruit is laced with complex notes of tobacco leaf, cigar shop, mint, bay leaf, leather, some cocoa and vanilla. Full-bodied with solid tannins, moderating acidity keeps it lively, and the fruit comes in waves: tart black currants, black cherry, chilled plums. Complex and earthy with notes of loam, roasted herb, spearmint chewing tobacco, notes of cedar and vanilla and mixed in but not dominant. Long life ahead here, but this is gorgeous stuff. (94 points)

2015 Hickinbotham The Peake - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $150
Light purple color. Wow, the aromas are fantastic: black cherries, currants, blackberries, loaded with fruit but elegant, too, and backed up with black pepper, bell pepper, iron, chewing tobacco, graphite and dark chocolate. So rich, structured well with serious tannic grip, but the wine maintains an effortless and velvety feel. Rich, plush, bold but not too dense, with roasted plums, currant paste, blackberries, the fruit is yummy but nuanced. Cocoa, graphite, loam, charcoal, grilled herbs and coffee, lots of complex elements here. Beautiful young but burying this wine for a decade and forgetting about it would be a solid move. This blend of 56% Cabernet and 44% Shiraz is sourced from the estate’s oldest vines, planted in 1971. (96 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

HLR Cellars: Exceptional Sonoma Reds

HLR Cellars, above the fog line in Sonoma County. Credit: HLR Cellars.

On the border between Napa and Sonoma Counties, about a mile from Diamond Mountain, sits a lesser-known appellation: the Fountaingrove District. This area of Sonoma (which achieved AVA status in 2015) is where H.L.R. Cellars calls home. 

Started in 2012 by Steve and Joan Heller, H.L.R. Cellars grows Bordeaux varieties in their estate vineyards, which are planted at about 1,300 feet in elevation.

I had never heard of this producer before, but I’m always on the look for new (to me) producers from Sonoma and Napa, so I was excited to uncork these samples and give them a whirl. I lined up the wines (a Cab, a Malbec, a Merlot, and two red blends) and single-blind tasted them. As I was typing up my notes, I did a double-take when I was looking at the prices. All of the wines clock in at $45 or less, and they bring a ton of deliciousness, structure and excitement at that price point. That’s not easy to find.

My notes below.

2015 HLR Cellars Hella•Nora - California, Sonoma County, Fountaingrove District
SRP: $39 Light purple color. Nose of roasted figs, plums, currant paste along with cocoa, vanilla and sweet espresso. Full and suave on the palate, chewy, fleshy, tangy, a nice combination. Tart black currant and roasted figs with expresso, cocoa, cedar and vanilla, hints of earthy-clove and tobacco. Plush and rich but stays lively, too. Yum. 40% Malbec, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Petit Verdot, aged 21 months in French and American oak. (89 points)

2015 HLR Cellars Hella•licious - California, Sonoma County, Fountaingrove District
SRP: $39

Light purple color. Spicy nose of pepper and wild herbs on top of rich black and red currant fruit, notes of earth, smoke and cedar. Full-bodied but lovely freshness from the acidity, and the tannins provide some structure but remain smooth around the edges. Tangy red and black currant fruit with smoky herbs, black pepper, along with sweet cocoa, vanilla and coffee grounds. Absolutely delicious, but it has complexity and vibrancy going for it as well. Cabernet Sauvignon with 27% Merlot and 7% Petit Verdot aged 21 months in 50% new French oak. (90 points)

2015 HLR Cellars Merlot - California, Sonoma County, Fountaingrove District
SRP: $39
Rich purple color. Bold but tangy fruit (red and black currants) with eucalyptus, mint, cocoa and sweet herbs. Full and suave on the palate, tangy acid over velvety tannins, and tart red currant mixes with saucy black cherry. Notes of eucalyptus, charcoal and mint chocolate chip, this has earthy-savory tones too. So vibrant on the finish. Aged 24 months in 44% new French and American oak. (91 points)

2015 HLR Cellars Malbec - California, Sonoma County, Fountaingrove District
SRP: $45
Rich purple. Nose shows tart black cherries, plums and boysenberry with mint, vanilla, violets and cedar. Full and big with chewy tannins but moderating acidity as well. Plums, roasted figs, boysenberry, waves of juicy dark fruit, backed up with violets, eucalyptus, mint, coffee, roasted chestnut. Rich and flavorful but stays smooth and lively. Aged 26 months in all new French and American oak. (90 points)

2015 HLR Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Sonoma County, Fountaingrove District
SRP: $45
Light purple color. I love the spicy elements on the nose (pepper, paprika, bay leaf) on top of tart red and black currants, with notes of loamy earth, campfire, pine resin, really cool vibes on the nose. Full but so pretty on the palate with structured but rounded tannins and fresh acidity. Gorgeous, plush black cherries, currants and plums, juicy but crisp fruit, backed up by spicy pepper, paprika, grilled herbs, smoky barbecue. Notes of vanilla and wood fit in nicely into the overall package. Pretty now but I’d love to see in five to seven years. Aged 25 months in a mix of French and American oak, about 50% new. (92 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

McIntyre Vineyards - Classic Santa Lucia Highlands Wine

The McIntyre Estate Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands, Monterey County, California. Credit: McIntyre Vineyards

Steve McIntyre (viticulturist, founder of McIntyre Vineyards) has extensive experience in California’s Central Coast. As owner of Monterey Pacific, his team farms 12,000 acres in Monterey County, and he has planted or farmed nearly a quarter of the vines in the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA.

In 1987, Steve purchased an 80-acre site first planted in 1973-acre. This McIntyre Estate Vineyard is the source of some impressive Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and Steve also bottles a larger appellation blend Chardonnay, an old vine rosé, and a Merlot sourced from Arroyo Seco, among others.

This was my first time tasting McIntyre Vineyards’ wine, and I found them delicious, vibrant, showing a tasty mix of rich fruit without being too overt or emblazoned with new oak. They seem like solid examples of the high quality Chardonnay and Pinot that always excites me about the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA.

2014 McIntyre Vineyards Chardonnay - California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
SRP: $28
Medium gold. Aromas of buttercream, rich yellow apple, quince paste, salted almonds and biscuits. Full and round, creamy but moderate acidity, yellow apples and baked pears with hints of limes. Graham crackers, almond, sea salt, honeybutter, lots of deliciousness but it stays vibrant and none of the flavors are too overt. (88 points)

2014 McIntyre Vineyards Chardonnay Estate - California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands

SRP: $38
Medium gold color. Nose shows bruised apples, pear nectar, along with white and yellow flowers, sea salt and crushed chalk. Rich and creamy with moderating acidity, the honeyed apple and baked pear fruit is mixed nicely with bright yellow floral notes, along with almond butter, graham cracker, hints of sea salt and chalk. Bold but balanced, and straight delicious, a little more verve and chalky notes than the non-estate Chardonnay. (89 points)

2016 McIntyre Vineyards Estate Rosé of Pinot Noir - California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
SRP: $24
Pale copper color. Smells of strawberries, watermelon, chalk dust, lemon zinger tea. Pleasantly plump on the palate but bright acidity. Crisp, chilled strawberry, cranberry and wild raspberry fruit, laced with complex notes of lemon verbena, mint, honeycomb, wild flowers and chalk dust. Delicious, complex, long finish. Impressive depth and complexity on this Pinot rosé. From a 45-year-old, own-rooted vineyard, this is a serious rosé that leaps out of the glass. (88 points)

2014 McIntyre Vineyards Pinot Noir - California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
SRP: $45
Bright ruby color. Aromas show a nice mix of tart red cherries and rich black cherries along with rhubarb pie, roses, clove and tobacco. Medium/full-bodied, velvety tannins, vibrant acidity. Saucy but tangy fruit (black cherry, raspberry, some strawberry jam), with clove, cinnamon, cedar, violets, all woven in well. Lovely stuff, this could soften for a few years but no guilt about drinking it right now. (90 points)

2013 McIntyre Vineyards Merlot Kimberly Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Arroyo Seco
SRP: $25
Deep ruby/light purple color. Pretty aromatic display of red currants, deep black cherries, violets, sweet pipe tobacco, cola. Full-bodied, velvety tannins, moderating acidity, doused in black cherries, black currant and raspberry jams. Violet petals, loamy soil, soy and mushroom, charred herbs, vanilla, savory spices, all of these add complexity and serious deliciousness to this Merlot. At least five years (likely more) of development, but delicious now, too. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Some Stunning Merlot From California

Good lord this is some good Merlot!

This post was first published on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

It's been a while since I've sat down with a handful of Merlots for a single-blind tasting. These selections make for a great re-entry. Some of these wines are quite expensive, full-bodied, oaky and packed with fruit, but I can't deny the beauty of poise of the wines that jumped out at me.

Apparently October is "Merlot Month" — one of those ubiquitous months marketers ascribe to a certain grape variety, region, etc. But it means I've been receiving some really solid Merlot samples, so I'm fine with it.

Go Merlot!

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted single blind (except for the Goldschmidt, which was received late and tasted sighted).

2013 Pahlmeyer Merlot - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $85
Deep purple color. Gobs of complex fruit on the nose: black cherries, saucy currants and blackberry jam, backed up by cedar, menthol, mint, vanilla and magic marker. Extracted and deep with velvety but structured tannins and medium-low acidity. Deep black cherries, blackberries and blueberry pie along with black licorice, mocha, vanilla, menthol and charcoal. A hard-punching style but very, very good. Will show better after a few years in the cellar, and continue to improve for quite some time, but it’s delicious to taste in its hedonistic youth. Aged 20 months in French oak (includes 4% Cab Sauv and 1% Petit Verdot). (93 points)

2013 Rombauer Vineyards Merlot - California, Napa, Carneros
SRP: $35
Juicy purple color. Smells vibrant yet dark, with a mix of black cherries, plums and red and black currant, along with notes of clove, cedar, coffee, and some violets and earthy elements. Full-bodied with velvety tannins, although they provide some structure, and medium-low acidity. Black cherries, red plums, juicy currants, the fruit is mixed with cola, coffee, roasted chestnut, earth and violet notes. Smooth, velvety and delicious. Fine to drink now or hold for a few years, easy. Includes 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 17 months in 30% new French oak. (88 points)

2013 Duckhorn Vineyards Merlot - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $54
Deep purple color. Aromas of saucy black cherries and tart red and black currants, along with violets, coffee, loamy soil and licorice. Full but juicy with a fleshy tannic approach and some moderate acid that helps keep it balanced. Black cherries, tart currants, the fruit is deep and juicy but also tart. Some mint, vanilla, smoky oak, cedar, but also some earthy and graphite notes. Shows well right out of the bottle but could unfold nicely in the near term. Includes 7% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc, this wine is aged 15 months in 25% new French oak. (88 points)

 2013 Mt. Brave Merlot - California, Napa Valley, Mt. Veeder
SRP: $75
Vibrant purple color. Smells dark and loamy, with black cherries, juicy currants, warm mulling spices, lots of earthy complexity. On the palate, a concentrated and voluptuous wine, good grip from the tannins, medium acidity. Flavors of dark currants and waves of black cherry — some vanilla, clove, dark roast coffee but plenty of dark earthy notes, hints of savory spice. Oak is evident but woven in well and not dominant. A bold and saucy wine, but beautiful through and through. If drinking soon, decant vociferously, but I’d love to taste this in four to six years. Includes 5% Malbec, this is aged 19 months in 85% new French oak. (92 points)

2013 La Jota Merlot - California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain
SRP: $85
Deep black cherry color. Smells of juicy black cherries, black currants, mixed with violets, vanilla, a hint of tobacco — concentrated aromas that need lots of air. Full-bodied with velvety tannins and some moderate acid, it’s mouth-filling but feels precise on the palate. Tart currants mix with roasted plum and jammy black cherries – but a really interesting streak of green herbs and savory spices. Underlying complexities of minerals, crushed rocks and pencil shavings. Concentrated and young, but very, very pretty. This should be a stunner in 2020 or so. Includes a bit of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, this is aged 19 months in 80% new French oak. (93 points)

2014 Goldschmidt Vineyard Merlot Chelsea Goldschmidt - California, Sonoma County, Alexander ValleySRP: $18
Juicy ruby color. Pretty aromatics of tart red and black currants, some lighter toned strawberry notes, and some roses, eucalyptus, tobacco. Full-bodied but wrapped in velvety tannins, some moderate acidity, a big and juicy wine. Black cherries and tart blueberry fruit, bold but stays fresh, the fruit is backed by cedar, eucalyptus, tobacco, mint and notes of vanilla coffee. Ready to drink but should improve for a few years. All Merlot aged 12 months in a mix of new and used French, American and Hungarian oak. (87 points)

Wine Reviews: California Cabernet & Merlot

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

This crew of wines included some real beauties. As is usually the case, I find that the best wines aren’t cheap. However, I also find the most expensive aren’t always the ones I like the most.
 
Of course, it all comes down to personal preference and — when talking about California Bordeaux varietal wines — a lot of it comes down to your tolerance for oak. The Shafer is a massive and oaky steel-toed boot to the palate, but I love it because, somehow, it all comes together. However, I found some other wines with far less new oak tasted overdone and charred.
 
This report includes wines from four recently available vintages (2010-2013), which reflects tremendous variation in style and aging ability.
 
These wines were received as trade samples and tasted single blind.
 
2010 Fields Family Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Dr. Konrad’s Vineyard - California, Napa Valley, Mt. Veeder
SRP: $59
Light purple color. The aromas are bright and vibrant, although there’s plenty of dark currant and plum fruit. The wine smells fresh, with elements of potting soil, violets, eucalyptus, sweet pipe tobacco, cherry wood and slight vanilla — I can’t stop smelling this wine. Medium-to-full-bodied, this wine has a firm but dusty tannic structure, refreshing acidity and bright but dark fruit (black cherry, blueberry, blackberry). The fruit is pure and vibrant and laced with elements of soil, graphite, violets, coffee and cola. I get an underlying sense of minerality that lingers long on the finish. Aged about two years in barrel and two in bottle before release. This is showing very well right out of the bottle, but it could use two more years in the cellar and will improve for long after that. (91 points)

Review: 2011 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $65
Dark ruby/earthy purple color. Aromas of black currant, roasted fig, plum cake, topped with cocoa powder, tobacco pipe and potting soil notes. Full-bodied but not too chewy or opulent – fine-grained tannins provide structure and some vibrant acidity keeps things smooth and precise. Dark currant, blueberry, roasted fig, the fruit is rich but showing nuance. Elements of tobacco, fallen leaves, and coffee grounds add play off of mocha and toast elements, which are woven in well and don’t dominate the other flavors. Not the deepest, most complex or age-worthy wine, but it is put together well and offers a lot of deliciousness and is ready to drink. (87 points)
 
2012 Kendall-Jackson Cabernet Sauvignon Jackson Estate Hawkeye Mountain - California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley
SRP: $55
Juicy purple color. Smells of dark currants, some roasted plums and figs, and a blend of sweet eucalyptus and mint, dark chocolate and charred toast. Full, dark and bold but the tannins have a smooth edge, medium acidity helps keep it moving forward. Blueberry, black currant, roasted fig, the fruit’s topped in vanilla coffee, dark chocolate, toasted coconut and loamy soil. A bit tight at first, this could use some time to open up but very tasty, quite well-structured and a lot of fun. Aged 18 months in mostly French oak, about 1/3 new. (88 points)

2013 Grgich Hills Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $69
Rich purple color. Deep aromas, a bit tight at first, this takes quite a bit of time to open up, but it eventually shows black currant and blackberry jam with iron, charcoal, tobacco and eucalyptus. Full-bodied and quite tannic, this is a seriously structured wine but the acidity is refreshing, and the balance is impressive. Blackberry and tart currant fruit, bold but it maintains a crunchy mystique. Lots of complex flavors packed in here: lavender, cedar, dark roast coffee, clove and a deep sense of minerality. Finishes long and balanced. A beautiful wine that will improve drastically as it ages over the next five to eight years. Aged 21 months in 60% new French oak. (93 points)
 
2012 Jordan Vineyard & Winery Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley
SRP: $55
Dark ruby color. Deep but vibrant black cherry, black currant and roasted fig aromas, I also get wet earth, charcoal, violets and eucalyptus, all of which combine to make the nose incredibly inviting. A velvety feel on the palate, solid structure to the tannins but fresness from the moderate-plus acidity. Saucy, smooth black fruit, plenty ripe but it maintains a nuanced appeal. Complex elements of loam, eucalyptus, gravelly soil, potted flowers. Hints of sweet cola and vanilla round out the finish. Open for business but stuffing to improve in the cellar. Includes 16% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot and 2% Malbec, aged in new and used French and American oak. (91 points)
 
2013 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon One Point Five - California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District
SRP: $85
Such a dark purple color. On the nose, I get dense blackberry and cassis, along with chocolate, coffee, a hint of mint and this unique element of concrete, paved road and graphite, which I really like. Rich and chewy, this has serious tannic structure but it’s suave. Some medium-low acidity helps tame the wine just a bit. Deep black currant and blackberry fruit topped with dark chocolate, charred earth, graphite, pencil shavings, dark roast coffee. Big and bold but undeniably delicious and quite complex. A bit toasty, but the other elements show through. Dense now, opens up significantly, but this is one to bury and forget about until at least the next Presidential election cycle. 15.3% alcohol, this is aged 20 months in all new French oak. (93 points)
 
2013 Purple Heart Wines - California, Napa Valley, St. Helena
SRP: $20
Vibrant ruby color. Smells candied and sweet with strawberry jam and black cherries topped with cinnamon, licorice and milk chocolate. Smooth tannins, low acidity, juicy and slightly candied fruit. I get raspberry, strawberry and blackberry jams with flavors of coffee, chocolate and vanilla. Simple but pleasant. 84% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot. (85 points)
 
2013 KITÁ Kalas Camp 4 Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
SRP: $50
Vibrant ruby color. Smells wonderfully smoky and earthy, with savory spices, mushroom, fallen leaves and campfire on top of a rich blend of tart black and red berry fruit. Full-bodied with a solid and dry tannic structure, some moderate acid for freshness. Tart red currants, black cherries, dark plums, all of the fruit is crunchy but full of ripe juice. If you enjoy savory aspects, seek this out because they are firing: pepper, rich earth, mushroom, wet leaves, pencil shavings, just hints of toast but well-integrated. Needs time or at least a lot of air, but this stuff is enjoyable and leaves a lot to contemplate as well. 54% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Franc, 18% Petit Verdot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 18 months in 40% new French oak. (92 points)
 
2012 Matanzas Creek Winery Merlot - California, Sonoma County
SRP: $28
Deep purple color. Tart blackberries, blueberries and richer black cherry fruit, some rich iron, potting soil, espresso and vanilla. Medium-to-full-bodied, dusty tannins, some tang from the acid, a velvety but crunchy feel to the wine. Tart blackberries and blueberries, mixed in with toasted oak, vanilla, dark roast coffee and sweet violets. Hints of earth and pencil shavings, a tart currant jam on the finish. A solid, perhaps it will get a bit more expressive with age. (86 points)
 
2012 Matanzas Creek Winery Merlot Jackson Park - California, Sonoma County, Bennett Valley
SRP: $60
Vibrant purple color. Smells fruit-forward with a mix of blueberry, raspberry and strawberry jams, along with some sweet cedar, vanilla and coffee notes. Medium-full-bodied, a chewy texture against some sturdy tannins, medium-low acid. The blackberry and blueberry fruit is jammy and rich, slathered with oak and vanilla, throw in some sweet cola, coffee, eucalyptus, mint, some rich earthy elements as well. Good stuff now, but I’d want to cellar this for a year or two and see how it opens up. A dash of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, this is aged in 40% new French and American oak. (88 points)
 
2012 Grgich Hills Merlot - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $43
Medium ruby color. Smells of tart black cherries, rich dark plums, mixed in with tons of smoke, tobacco, black olive, earthy complexity, wonderful aromas but they need time to open up. Full-bodied yet some zip from the acid, this has great structure with firm tannins but they’re fined down around the edges. Lovely crunchy and tart aspects to fruit (some red berries mixed in with the blackberry and dark plums). Full of earthy, floral and spicy complexity. Nice and toasty (but not too much), with notes of roasted chestnut coffee. Very well-made stuff, it’ll have a lot more to show in four or five years. (91 points)

Wine Reviews: California Reds for Cold Weather

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

The air in the mid-Atlantic is finally baring its cold winter teeth – which I love. It’s time to set the slow-cooker, uncork some rich California reds. and raise a glass to darkness at 5:00 PM.

I review a lot of California Pinot Noirs, Cabernets and Syrahs, but we also receive a lot of samples that don’t easily fall into one category or another. Hence, this tasting, which is full of Merlot, Bordeaux-style blends and inky Petite Sirahs.

These wines were received as trade samples an tasted single-blind.

2012 Matchbook The Arsonist - California

SRP: $22
Deep ruby color. Sweet blueberry and raspberry jam aromas, along with roses, caramel. Medium-full-bodied with smooth tannins and medium acid, a jammy but slick feel on the palate, and I get lots of blueberry and black cherry fruit, cooked down a bit with coffee, brown sugar, vanilla bean and hints of black pepper glaze. A bit boisterous but it pulls off some fun stuff and provides a moderate amount of complexity. Chewy, rich, warm, with a dusty but sweet finish. Fun stuff now but it could benefit from some near-term aging. 52% Petite Verdot, 24% Cabernet Sauvignon and 24% Merlot, aged 28 months in French, American and European oak. (87 points)

2012 Clayhouse Vineyard Petite Sirah “Show Pony” Red Cedar Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

SRP: $40
Deep blackberry-purple color. Aromas of tangy blackberries mixed with blueberry compote and jam, notes of charcoal, dark chocolate, violets and clove. Dense at first, with low acid and grippy tannins. The blackberry and blueberry fruit is rich and extracted, yet maintains a tart aspect. Violets, graphite, clove, toasted coconuts, dark chocolate. Full and forward (14.5% alcohol), but shows an impressive depth and non-fruit complexity like graphite, pepper and rich earth. Drink now if you want a big boy, but I’d like to cellar this for two years or so. All Petite Sirah aged 20 months in French oak. (88 points)

2013 Chronic Cellars Petite Sirah Suite Petite - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

SRP $15
Vibrant purple color. Dense on the nose with deep blackberries and plums, mocha, cedar, smoke and black olive. Rich texture on the palate, full-bodied with gritty tannins. Compact, needs time to open up but has some dense black cherries and roasted figs. Notes of earth, charcoal, black olive and black pepper glaze as well. Rich, chewy, perhaps needs two years or so, but this is an impressive effort for $15. Includes 13% Syrah. (87 points)

2013 Chronic Cellars Purple Paradise - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

SRP: $15
Juicy ruby color. Nose of sweet red and black cherries and plums, coffee, clove and vanilla. Full-bodied but soft tannins, moderate-low acid. Juicy raspberries, blueberries, gushing fruit loaded with coffee, dark chocolate, sweet oak and vanilla bean. Rich, chewy, a wine to pop now and drink with a crowd. 70% Zinfandel, 14% Syrah, 11% Petite Sirah, 5% Grenache. (86 points)

2012 Matchbook Tinto Rey - California, Central Valley, Dunnigan Hills

SRP: $17
Mediun ruby colored. Nose of wild raspberries and juicy red cherries, some cola, mint and sweet baking spices as well. Medium-bodied, moderate acid helps freshen things up despite the chewy black cherry and raspberry jam elements. The wine is packed with notes of cola, dark chocolate, cedar and clove, but some interesting pepper and spice notes as well. Warm, smooth finish. Delicious stuff, not the most complicated wine, but it’s a fun ride. 50% Tempranillo, 17% Syrah, 11% Petit Verdot, 8% Graciano and 4% Tannat. (87 points)

2010 Cenyth Proprietary Red Wine - California, Sonoma County

SRP: $60
Dark ruby colored. A rich but bright aromatic blend of black and red currants and tart plums, sweet cedar, red roses, dusty soil, tobacco and a dash of eucalyptus. Medium bodied but not overpowering, the tannins provide plenty of solid structure but some fresh acid keeps the wine bright. The juicy plums and currant fruit show depth and nuance, and the fruit is matched with tobacco leaf, eucalyptus, toasted oak and sweet clove. Long finish with all sorts of nuanced flavors and, despite the bold presence, it maintains a lingering sense of elegance and freshness. I’d love to revisit this in three or four years, but enjoyable now, although a good decant would do it good. 54% Merlot, 34% Cabernet Franc and 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 14 months in 30% new French oak, 13.5% alcohol. (91 points)

2013 Biltmore Estate Merlot Vanderbilt Reserve - California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley

SRP: $27
Medium purple color. Sweet aromas of black cherries, raspberries, red licorice and vanilla. A vibrant and juicy approach on the palate with fleshy tannins and moderate-low acid. Chewy black cherries and, the fruit is topped with notes of dark chocolate and campfire smoke. Significant wood chips and vanilla, especially on the finish, some tobacco and bell pepper notes. Perhaps some near-term aging could do good things, but it seems playful right out of the bottle. (85 points)

2013 Shafer Merlot - California, Napa Valley

SRP: $55
Light purple color. Deep, rich aromatics, needing air and swirling to coax them out, but lots of complexity in here: black cherries, blackberries, tart plums, along with a medley of earthy-savory aspects (mushroom, leather, coffee, eucalyptus), sweet vanilla and toast. Full-bodied with study tannins and medium-low acid, but the wine maintains a velvety richness. The blackberry, plum skin and blueberry fruit is full, ripe but sexy, and tossed together with plenty of tobacco, mocha, cedar, loamy soil and graphite notes. Complex, long, deserving of cellar time to unravel the complexities and let the wine smooth out, but this is a beauty. A burly wine at 15.3% alcohol, but so delicious. Includes 84% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 20 months in 75% new French oak. (91 points)

Gotta love this label.

2012 Bootleg Red - California, Napa Valley

SRP: $39
Vibrant purple color. Dark and saucy on the nose (blackberry jam, roasted figs, blueberry syrup), some sweet vanilla and roasted coffee mix with an underlying sense of fallen leaves and savory (perhaps mushroom?) notes. Full-bodied with some sandy tannins and moderate acid. Juicy blackberry, blueberry and black cherry fruit, a crunchy aspect to the fruit helps it stay fresh and vibrant. Rich earth, chestnut, violet and coffee woven in well, some birch beer and cedar on the end. Seems accessible but it could definitely improve with some time in the cellar. 37% Merlot, 28% Petite Sirah, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Syrah and 4% Zinfandel. Aged 23 months in French and Amercan oak. (88 points)

2012 Murrieta’s Well “The Spur” - California, San Francisco Bay, Livermore Valley

SRP: $25
Vibrant ruby color. Pretty but bold aromatic display, wild raspberries, black cherries mix with deeper currant fruit, dried violets, eucalyptus and cedar shavings. Medium-bodied, fine tannins of medium strength, medium-low acid. The blackberry and black currant fruit is intertwined with juicy and tangy wild raspberries. I like the mix of coffee, eucalyptus, cedar and wet earth. Fun, not too complicated, but definitely delicious. Could use a bit more tang for my palate, but a solid wine for early consumption. 33% Petite Sirah, 31% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Petite Verdot, 4% Malbec and 3% Merlot. (87 points)

2013 Quivira Zinfandel “Black Boar” - California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley

SRP: $45
Deep ruby colored. Smoky and baked on the nose with baked cherry pie, blackberry jam and roasted figs, some vanilla, cedar and sweet pipe tobacco. Full-bodied, velvety tannins, low acid. Blackberry jam, roasted fig paste, cherry pie flavors, lots of cedar, vanilla, mocha and scorched earth but some more tobacco and black pepper. Big and bold, can’t deny the deliciousness but not much subtlety. Aged 17 months in 30% new French oak, this includes 12% Petite Sirah and 5% Carignan. (87 points)

2012 Immersion Wines Red Blend - California, Napa Valley

SRP $17
Vibrant purple. Aromas of tart red berries, blackberries, notes of clove, tobacco, spearmint, dark chocolate shavings. Full bodied, some tartness and bite to the wine, along with blackberry, dark currant, blueberry. Smoky, charcoal and Maintains a tart edge with a finish of smoke and anise. Not too complex, but fun. (85 points)

<85 points

2012 Clayhouse Vineyard “Adobe Red” - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $14
Juicy purple colored. Nose of sweet currant jam, raspberry pie, some cinnamon, clove and creamy oak. Light tannins, medium acid. Sweet black cherries, raspberry jam and pomegranate juice flavors, along with black cherry fountain soda, roasted chestnut and coffee. Juicy and a bit candied but tasty. Drink now. Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Tempranillo and Malbec, 12 months in French and American oak. (84 points)

2013 Nevada County Wine Guild Our Daily Red - California

SRP: $10
Medium ruby color. Sweet red apple peel, strawberry jam, a weird mix of coffee grounds, bitter green herbal notes and red licorice candy. Medium bodied, soft tannins, some moderate acid. The red berry fruit is a bit bitter and sour, mixed in with notes of coffee, oak, green pepper and earth. Unbalanced, some red berry juice flavors but, overall, just not good. Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Ruby Cabernet, Carignan. (70 points)
 
2013 Cornerstone Cellars Stepping Stone Red Rocks! - California, North Coast
SRP: $15
Light ruby color. Smells like baked plums, raspberry cheesecake topping, toffee, but some roses and pepper come in and keep it from being totally sweet fruit compote. Tangy acid (surprising, in a good way), light, the wine has a fresh feel despite the candied elements, of which there are many (cherry chews, purple taffy, raisin cookie), mixed in with some slight notes of roses and chestnut. It’s fun, and I could see this getting a lot of critter label converts (and it is a step above for sure), but still tastes too concocted to me. Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and Pinot Noir. (76 points)

Showing Some Love for California Merlot

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Apparently, a decade ago a character in some movie made some comment about Merlot sucking. All of the sudden, Merlot became persona non grata with American consumers.

Not sure what all the fuss was about because Merlot can be a beautiful thing. Sure, there’s plenty of uninspiring Merlot, but replace the word Merlot with any grape and the same thing would be true.

Luckily for me, this bunch of California Merlots contained a few really good ones. The wines were received as trade samples and tasted single-blind.

2012 Atalon Winery “Pauline’s Cuvee” - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $30
Bright purple color. Nose shows red and black currants, dark cherries, sweet cola, vanilla and clove as well, some underlying violet elements. An approachable and silky wine on the palate with moderate tannins and some freshness from the acid. Tart blackberries and red and black plums taste perfectly ripe and play well off the loamy and dusty earth elements. I also get some cedar, hints of pepper, dried leaves and toast on the finish. Showing quite well now, but could stand some near-term cellar time. A blend of 75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and dashes of Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. (88 points)

2012 Gundlach Bundschu Merlot - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley
SRP: $32
Medium ruby color. Aromatically bright and floral, the red and black fruit smell deep but fresh, along with underlying notes of cedar, eucalyptus and mocha. On the palate, good grip to the tannins but they’re not harsh, moderate-low acid. Largely black fruits, tangy but rich. The wine shows a strong mix of charcoal, tobacco, gravelly road and cedar, yet maintains some elegant floral and spice tones. Impressive structure, this could use a few years to relax and seems easily capable of five to seven years in the cellar, but overall the wine connects in lots of the right places. Aged 17 months in French oak, 40% new, includes 4% Malbec, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Petit Verdot. (89 points)

2011 Grgich Hills Merlot - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $42
A moderate ruby color, not exactly bright. Nose of tart raspberries, blackberries, sweet strawberry jam, notes of pipe smoke, menthol, pine needles and vanilla cola. Fleshy with moderate tannins, medium acid, chewy but tangy fruit (red and black cherries, tart blueberries). Notes of mocha, cedar, fig cookie, vanilla cola, a sense of loamy complexity. Tart fruit elements, but rich with lots of non-fruit elements. Could use a few years or some air, but it’s a beauty. All Merlot, aged 18 months in 30% new French oak. (90 points)

2011 Swanson Merlot - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $38
Bright and crunchy red fruit on the nose, sweet roses, some cola and a sweet herbal (eucalyptus?) note. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied but surprisingly fresh, the tannins are structured but fine and approachable. Juicy dark plums, some black cherries and currant fruit as well, the fruit is velvety but fresh. A hint of cola, sweet coffee and maybe mint? Good amount of mocha and cedar, but interwoven well. Long and creamy finish. Opens up wonderfully with time and gets even more smooth and silky. Aged 16 months in half French, half American oak, one-third new, this wine contains 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Petite Verdot. (89 points)

Loving this black metal homage label.
Wine's pretty damn good, too. 

2012 Prisoner Wine Company Thorn - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $40
Vibrant purple color. Lush and inviting on the nose, dark berry compote, raspberry jam, dried roses, mocha and toasted oak. Full-bodied, the tannins are pure velvet, gliding across the palate with ease, a bit low on the acid. The fruit is bold, extracted and dark, like all sorts of berries thrown into a pan and cooked down with sugar and bourbon. Notes of toasted coconut, mocha and mint, significant cedar elements. Deep and loamy finish. So velvety and rich, big, bold, hedonistic, full of opulence, about as subtle as black metal (to which the label seems to pay homage). Not the most food-friendly wine, but I can’t help but enjoy its guts. Aged 18 months in 40% new French oak, this is mostly Merlot with some Syrah and Malbec. (88 points)

2013 Mason Cellars Merlot 60 North - California
SRP: $11
Medium ruby color. Kind of like baked fruit on the nose, like a strawberry tart and raspberry donut jam, mix in some coffee grounds, toasted nuts, sweet cola. Light tannins, tart acid, the red fruit is simultaneously tart and slightly cooked down, like crunchy red currants mixed with raspberry and strawberry jam. Some notes of charcoal, coffee grounds, toasted barrel notes. Tastes pleasant, but nothing serious. Includes 6% Petite Verdot, 6% Zinfandel and 3% Petite Sirah. (81 points)

Two 2007 Sonoma Valley Reds

I like experimenting with aging California reds, even those that may generally be consumed within a few years of the vintage. Sometimes, this pays off, and the wines are gorgeous. Sometimes, like a recent tasting of two 2007 reds from Sonoma Valley, the results are more mixed. 

2007 was marked by small yields and small berry size, a product of a mild growing season, which Gundlach Bundschu winemaker Jeff Bundschu said was welcome after a very dry winter.

Both wines had fresh acid and restrained fruit, although the Gun Bun Merlot’s fruit had waned further. Surprisingly, the Merlot’s tannins were stronger than the Syrah’s. 

2007 Eric K. James Syrah Moon Ridge Vineyard
California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley
Medium ruby colored. Red and black cherries, some blackberries mixed in, laced through with notes of smoke, black olive and campfire soot. Full-bodied but the tannins have smoothed out, and the moderate acid makes it easy to drink. I like the black cherry and blackberry fruit, tangy but bright, and the elements of black olive brine, bacon fat and campfire smoke. Kalamata olives and roasted red peppers come out with time. Not incredibly deep or profound, but it does what it does very well. Lots of interesting flavors. (87 points)

2007 Gundlach Bundschu Merlot Estate Vineyard
California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley
A bit flat on the nose, takes a lot of swirling to coax out the blackberry cobbler and currant jam aromas, some underlying woodsy notes of leaves, loam and moss, but very subtle. Tart and a bit bracing on the palate, the tannins and dusty but still holding down the structure. The fruit tastes a bit tired though, like currants left out in the sun, and the fruit falls flat when compared to the toast and tannic structure. Some smoky, charcoal notes, wood, moss and soil, mushrooms come out with time, but the fruit stays quiet. I usually really enjoy Gun Bun Merlots, but too bad the fruit seems tuckered out on this one, because the rest is still going. Opens up on day two, the wine calms down with time though, the tannins soften and even though the fruit is still lacking, the wine becomes more balanced. (85 points)

Wine Reviews: Washington State

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

When it comes to pure deliciousness and joy in a wine-drinking experience, Washington State wines always deliver for me. 

Every time I think I have a grasp of the wines and their producers, I discover a new winemaker that wows me and keeps me wanting to learn more. 

There are also plenty of value-driven bottles available, although some of these, like bulk regional blends from anywhere, can lack excitement. 

Still, dollar for dollar, the quality of Washington State continues to impress.

This batch was received as trade samples and tasted blind.

2012 Columbia Winery Chardonnay - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $14
Richer nose, orange marmalade, creamy pears and honey, some floral, perfume. Plump on the palate, chunky pineapple and pears, drizzled with honey and topped with diced nuts. Bold, ripe, creamy, but some moderate acid keeps it in check. The nutty, chamomile, honey and baked bread elements show some moderate complexity. Includes some Semillon and Chenin Blanc. (85 points)

2013 Columbia Winery Chardonnay - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $14
Rich nose of oranges, baked pear, papaya, some honey and floral notes. Juicy and rich on the palate but acid keeps it balanced. Nutty and honeyed notes accent the pear, yellow apple and apricot fruit. I get a lot of crushed nuts, honeyed tea and toast elements. A creamy and bold Chardonnay with exposed oak, but still quite tasty. Includes 5% Pinot Gris and 3% “other white” grapes. (84 points)

2012 Kennedy Shah (Woodhouse Wine Estates) Riesling Reserve DuBrul Vineyard - Washington, Columbia Valley, Yakima Valley
SRP: $25
Medium gold color. Beautiful and complex nose of white peach, orange marmalade, kiwi, all drizzled with honey and some dusty soil. On the palate this wine is bright and clean, packing lots of fruit into a nervy, wiry frame. The slight sugary sweetness is matched perfectly with the brisk acid. I get lime, white peach, kiwi and papaya, throw in some honey and a whole lot of sea salt, shells and minerals. A hint of hazelnut lingering long into the finish. Complex and intriguing, but so refreshing and satisfying at the same time. (90 points) 

2010 Long Shadows Wineries Chester-Kidder - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $50
Dark purple color. Deep and dark on the nose with currants, fig paste, roasted plums mixing with notes of charcoal, mocha, vanilla, some spicy, bourbon cask elements. Firm tannins on the palate, this is a bold and concentrated wine but the acid helps it out a lot. Deep currants and black cherries blend with some black olive and spiced black tea notes. Long and full, with notes of coffee and coconut on the finish. Delicious, but it could use two or three years to unwind. 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Syrah and 5% Petit Verdot. (91 points)

2010 Daríghe (Woodhouse Wine Estates) Proprietor's Blend - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $65
Dark ruby-light purple color. Lovely blueberry and tart cranberries on the nose, lots of flowers, loamy soil, rich vanilla, clove, tobacco, but so much brightness to the aromatic profile as well. Tart acid, grippy tannins, full of structure but balanced and easy to drink at the same time. Blueberry fruit, blackberries and black cherries galore, complex and interesting notes of smoke and mocha notes, vanilla and milk chocolate, but also lots of flowers and loamy elements. The acid keeps it clean and fresh. Beautiful notes of spiced tea and incense sticks, like a spice rack collapsed onto the fruit. But it’s lovely and fresh and long-lasting. Complex, thought-provoking, but perhaps most importantly, downright delicious. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Cabernet Franc, 12% Merlot, 7% Malbec and 3% Petite Verdot, aged 24 months in 75% new French oak. (92 points)

2010 Dussek Family Cellars (Woodhouse Wine Estates) Cabernet Sauvignon - Washington, Columbia Valley, Rattlesnake Hills
SRP: $36
A dark ruby colored in the glass. Lovely nose: Rich blue fruit mixes with tart red berries, and it’s all dusted with incense sticks, lavender, rose potpourri and a deep sense of earthy complexity. Silky and elegant on the palate, sure the tannins have lots of structure but the acid is tart and the fruit is cool, creamy and so smooth. Blueberries and red berries again, but also lots of loamy soil, tobacco leaf, cocoa powder and cinnamon notes. Long and complex, you could decant this and pick out nuances all night long, or just cellar it for five. But a beauty young. Swoon. 13.8% alcohol, aged 18 months in 50% new French oak, includes 8% Cabernet Franc. (92 points)

2011 Long Shadows Wineries Saggi - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $50
Notes of sweet blackberries and currant jam mix with charcoal, dark coffee, caramel and some sweet cedar. Full on the palate, dark but tart as well with crispness from the acid and fine but structured tannins. Cranberries and red currants, some blackberries as well, add to that some graphite, pencil shavings, red pepper jelly, anise and tobacco. Big but tart, well-structured and complex, this could develop quite a bit in the cellar. 43% Sangiovese, 42% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Syrah. (91 points)

2011 Long Shadows Wineries Syrah Sequel - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $45
Dark purple color. Smokey and bold on the nose with black currants, black cherries and blueberries, all of it dark and deep, with a bit of beef jerky and charcoal thrown in as well. Solid tannic backbone, tamed by medium acid, the wine shows some chewy aspects but it’s also quite smooth (if that makes any sense). Black currant and blueberry fruit is juicy and rich and mixed in with an interesting combination of cedar, pencil shavings, teriyaki sauce and beef jerky. Bold but showing some restraint, a good decant and this could be enjoyed now, but I’d love to cellar it for three or four years to see what those meaty, earthy tones do. Aussie icon John Duval nails it with this Columbia Valley Syrah. (92 points) 
 
2012 Columbia Winery Cabernet Sauvignon - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $15
Bright ruby color. Smells of blackberries and blueberries, scorched earth, roasted coffee and some notes of sweet red licorice. Fresh acid and medium-strength tannins back up the blackberry and plum fruit. Notes of charcoal smoke, mocha and sweet tobacco round the wine out, and I also get some cedar shavings, chocolate chips and vanilla elements. Medium finish with notes of vanilla and toasted oak. Includes 11% Syrah, 10% Malbec and 3% Merlot. (85 points)

2012 Columbia Winery Merlot - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $14
Juicy purple color. Currants and tart blueberries on the nose with some earthy accents. Chewy on the palate with smooth tannins and a blueberry and candied cherry blend of flavors. Notes of mocha and earth. Simple, fun, a bit astringent on the finish. Includes 10% Syrah, and dashes of Cab and other varieties. (83 points)

N.V. Columbia Winery Red Blend - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $12
Smells of raspberry gummy candy, cola and smoke. Juicy, tangy and tart on the palate with darker berry fruit (plums and blackberries). I also get some roses and a hint of tobacco. Light tannins, medium acid, I need more complexity and personality from this wine though. Still, for $12, it’s not bad. A blend of Cabernet, Syrah and Merlot. (81 points)