Year-End Selections: International Wines for Difficult Times

As a long year winds down, I hope you have some nice bottles lined up to share with loved ones. With the holidays in full swing, I’m taking a break from sparkling wines and focusing on some wines that offered me a chance to travel. In my mind at least; I’ve been cooped up for a long time. But there are places I want to visit and wine regions I want to dig into, and tasting wine always gets me thinking and planning.

I’ve long been a fan of wines from Argentina, and I recently tasted through several wines that reminded me that there’s a lot more to explore. The value to be found there has always attracted me, but more and more I’m finding wines that show a whole lot more depth and nuance than I expected. Oh, to visit one day!

Chile is another country I have had on my list. Surfing the coast, climbing some mountains, and visiting the wine regions in between, it’s a bucket list trip I plan to take one day. But, in these pandemic times, some delightful reds from Chile offered a peek into a beautiful country.

I also have three wines that could only come from Southwest France. With some many varied appellations and styles, I always enjoy trying to dig into the diversity and history of the wines from this region. With a host of indigenous varieties, plenty of value to find, and a fascinating winemaking culture and history, the three wines in this report are barely scratching the surface.

An inexpensive red from Veneto and an impressive Napa Cab round out this report.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

Argentina

2020 Piattelli Vineyards Torrontés - Argentina, Salta, Cafayate
SRP: $14
Medium straw color. The nose pops with peaches and white flowers, mango and papaya, lots of tropical flowers. The palate shows crisp acidity and moderately creamy texture, but there’s a nervy, salty vibe that helps keep things fresh against the juicy, papaya and peach fruit. Some slate and mineral elements on the finish, with flowers, too. There’s quite a lot going on here, and shows freshness and balance. (89 points)

2018 Mascota Vineyards Malbec Unánime - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $25
A vibrant purple color. Juicy nose of black cherries and red plums tossed with a generous dose of mesquite, violet petals, cocoa, really lush and inviting. Full but suave on the palate with medium acidity and smooth tannins. Flavors of blueberries and plum sauce mix well with a nice, stony, mineral, graphite component. Those smoky, meaty, bacon elements linger onto the finish. Fun and highly delicious but shows nice complexity as well. (89 points)

2014 Mascota Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Magnánime - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $70
This Cabernet sports a deep, dark, inviting nose of currants and blueberries, with complex elements of coffee, dark chocolate, roasted chestnut and herbal, floral tones – just a beautiful, enticing aromatic display. The palate delivers what the nose promises, with deep concentration and grippy tannins but lively acidity and plenty of freshness. Tangy blueberries, blackberries and figs, mixes with smoky, earthy tones, and iron/graphite elements. A wine worthy of cellar contemplation and the choicest grilled meats, this is a delightful Mendoza Cabernet. (93 points)

2020 Bodega El Esteco Torrontés Don David Reserve - Argentina, Salta, Cafayate
SRP: $20
Light yellow color. The nose pops with classic notes of peaches and guava, with interesting salty, yellow flower and honeyed tones. The palate shows zippy acidity and a pleasantly creamy texture. Peaches and papaya flow, with tones of tropical flowers, sea salt and whipped honey. Crisp and bright but delightful textural depth and lovely Torrontes tropical goodness. (89 points)

2020 Durigutti Proyecto “Las Compuertas” Criolla Parral - Argentina, Mendoza, Lujan de Cuyo
SRP: $ 25
Pale ruby color. So juicy with aromas of raspberries, strawberries and red apple, with complex notes of spiced tea, pepper and airy roses. The palate is medium-bodied with silky tannins and bright acidity, which supports bright red fruit (red apple, raspberry and strawberry). Notes of lavender, rose petals, violets and clove add complexity, and air brings out sage, rhubarb and clay tones. So fresh, airy and floral with elegant, flora, spicy tones. I really want to see more wines like this from Argentina in the U.S. Made from Criolla Chica (Pais), this is something else! Crushable but complex and beautiful. (91 points)

Chile

2017 Viña San Pedro Cabernet Sauvignon Cabo de Hornos - Chile, Rapel Valley, Cachapoal Valley
SRP: $57
Dark purple. The aromas are so, so good, with deep currants, plums, smoky earth, menthol, a warm holiday cider vibe, really lovely. Full but fresh on the palate, the tannins show solid grip with refined edges, and the acidity is lively. Fresh currants and blackberries, joined with a unique mix of mint, tobacco, eucalyptus, clove, violets, a lot comes out with air. Nice concentration and freshness that will pay off in the cellar. 100% Cabernet. (92 points)

2019 Concha y Toro Carménère Marqués de Casa Concha - Chile, Rapel Valley, Peumo
SRP: $24
Deep purple color. Aromas show a classic mix of black cherries, tobacco, bell pepper, along with violet petals and coffee grounds – just delightful. Full-bodied, suave with blackberries and fig fruit, balanced with fresh acidity. Blackberries and cherry fruit, tangy but saucy, and it mixes well with roasted red pepper, coffee and tobacco tones. A lot of complexity in here for the price, and a really interesting expression of Carménère. (90 points)

2019 Concha y Toro Pinot Noir Marqués de Casa Concha - Chile, Limarí Valley
SRP: $20
Vibrant ruby color. A really spicy, floral and perfumed display on the nose with rose petals, black pepper, rhubarb and pepperoni over tangy red cherries. Crisp acidity, light tannins, this is a bright and floral Pinot with juicy strawberries and cranberry fruit. Notes of rose teal, paprika, rhubarb and sage add complexity to this fun, fresh wine. Shows a lot more complexity and authenticity than a lot of similarly-priced Pinot Noirs from a lot of other regions and countries. (89 points)

Italy

2020 Gran Passione Veneto Rosso - Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT
SRP: $14
Light purple color. The nose shows a pleasantly jammy mix of raspberries and cherries along with sweet rose petals and red licorice notes. The palate shows medium acidity and smooth, chewy tannins with sweet plums and raspberries. Has a saucy, fun appeal with notes of roses, clove and licorice. A fun, value-driven blend of Merlot and Corvina. (87 points)

France

N.V. Domaine du Moulin Gaillac Méthode Ancestrale - France, Southwest France, Gaillac
SRP: $20
Rich yellow color. The nose shows a delightful mix of white tea and candle wax, chalk dust, over lemons and yellow apples. The palate is zesty and brisk with a nice mix of whipped honey and limestone/chalky tones and delightfully fine bubbles. The yellow apple, lime and lemon fruit is fun and fresh and the wine maintains a floral, bright, steely appeal that would make this delightful with Ramen, sushi and more. Crisp and fun but enough depth to keep it interesting. Made from 100% Mauzac, a Pet-Nat lover’s wine for sure. (88 points)

2020 Domaine Duffour Côtes de Gascogne - France, Southwest France, Gascony, Côtes de Gascogne
SRP: $12
Medium yellow color. So bright on the nose, with limes and kiwi, lemongrass, tones of white pepper and oregano, a really fun, bright and spicy wine. Crisp and floral on the nose, zesty but some pleasant creaminess. Kiwi, lemon, green apples and white peach fruit mix well with floral perfume and celery seed tones. Super fun and fresh, nice creaminess, a delightful shellfish and salad wine. (87 points)

2018 Producteurs Plaimont Saint-Mont Nature Secrete - France, Southwest France, Gascony, Saint-Mont
SRP: $13
Deep, dark purple color. The nose shows a pleasant mix of campfire, roasted coffee and anise over top of black cherries and currants. On the palate this shows fresh acidity, some rough edges around the tannins but its also packed with tart currant fruit that makes it accessible. A complex mix of menthol, tar, pepper and earth. A spicy, tangy but friendly wine that would pair well with any grilled game and veg you could throw at it. Tannat with 15% Pinenc and 15% Cab Sauv. (86 points)

USA

2017 Gamble Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville
SRP: $60
Bright purple color. The nose shows a warm compote of roasted figs and tangy blueberries with deep tones of anise, clove and graphite, along with pepper, cocoa and some gravelly, loam tones. The palate shows firm tannins and medium acidity, along with a tart but sweet mix of blueberries, figs and black cherries. There’s a complex mix of smoky, minty, cocoa, tobacco and roasted chestnut elements. This wine sports a lot of concentration, age-worthiness and mystique, especially for a Napa Cab at this price point. Includes a combined 11% Petit Verdot, Malbec and Merlot, aged 20 months in 43% new oak. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Wine Reviews: International Grab Bag

I’m back this week with another round-up of some recent samples from around the world.

This week, Umberto Cesari delivers two interesting wines from Emilia-Romagna’s Rubicone region.

For years now, I’ve been very impressed with Troon’s wines, and they continue to keep their stride. These wines are biodynamic, lower-alcohol, made with native yeasts, and they show tremendous depth and complexity. The U.S. wine scene is lucky to have Troon, an outfit that always maintains quality and focus while constantly branching out and experimenting. And, apparently, now they make one of the only Piquettes I’ve tasted that I can honestly recommend.

And there’s also Post Malone’s Maison No. 9 French pink – hey, I review what I get!

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2019 Maison No. 9 Mediterranée Rosé - France, Provence, Mediterranée
SRP: $22
Medium copper color. Juicy aromas of sweet white peach, juicy watermelon, with honey, sweet white flowers. On the palate, this has a light and crunchy feel with white peach, McIntosh apple, lemon peel. Notes of celery seed, white pepper and mint. Fun, light, stuff but shows some interesting elements – not just celebrity plonk. A blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Merlot. (86 points)

2019 Benvolio Pinot Grigio - Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Friuli Grave
$10
Pale copper color. Aromas of white peaches, honey, pineapple, with white flowers, fresh laundry and clover. Peaches and green melons lead the way on the palate, a creamy texture with bright acidity works nicely, and the wine has this interesting chalky, flinty aspect. White tea, verbena and mint, even some minerality showing through, this has a lot going on for a budget-friendly Pinot Grigio. (87 points)

2018 Umberto Cesari Liano Bianco - Italy, Emilia-Romagna, Rubicone
SRP: $26
Light yellow color. Inviting nose of creamy pears, guava, orange peel, along with honeysuckle, daisies, dandelion – ripe but fresh. Plump texture on the palate, vibrant acidity, this is fruity but fresh, with a medley of guava, orange, papaya and lime. Creamy and juicy but balanced, too, accented with notes of honeycomb, chamomile tea, minerals and sea salt. Focused and bright on the finish, this is lovely. Chardonnay with 30% Sauvignon Blanc, aged three months in oak. (90 points)

2017 Umberto Cesari Liano - Italy, Emilia-Romagna, Rubicone
SRP: $35
Light purple color. Nose shows smoky earth, tobacco and charcoal on top of black tea, oregano, with juicy black cherries and currant jam. On the palate, this shows silky tannins, medium acidity, and a chewy, approachable presence with black cherries and raspberry jam. Notes of green herbs, glazed mushroom and cocoa add complexity. Fun, spicy, juicy style that offers lots of food pairing options. Sangiovese with 30% Cabernet, aged 18 months in barrel. (88 points)

2019 Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench Rosé - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Pale copper color. Aromas pop with daisies, baby’s breath, dandelion and mint, over white cherries, watermelon rind and chalk dust. Zesty and clean on the palate, this light-bodied rose has such focus and precision. Tangy white cherries and strawberry, watermelon rind, mixing with gorgeous rose petals, dandelion, wild clover, hay and white tea. Really pretty and complex, this is serious pink, here. A co-fermented blend of Tinta Roriz, Primitivo and Grenache, 11.7% alcohol. (91 points)

2019 Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench Amber - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $30
Beautiful light amber color. Aromas of salty, briny goodness, with orange peel, candied lemon, and some wild herbs, spiced tea, clay and musk – a lot going on. Such clarity and focus on the palate, medium-bodied, a deeply texture wine but it’s so bright throughout. Candied lemon, orange peel, apricot, the fruit mixes with ginger, mint, fennel, mineral, clay. So complex but it goes down so easily. Not too wild or out there, this would be a great way to introduce folks to orange/amber wines, but it has enough to get orange wine geeks excited, too. Exceptional stuff. 74% Riesling, 16% Vermentino and 10% Marsanne, fermented separately then aged in old French oak. (93 points)

2019 Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench Piquette - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Light watermelon color. Aromas of wild strawberry, tart cranberry, with watermelon rind, white pepper, musk and bay leaf. Light and zippy on the palate with fine bubbles and crunchy tart white cherries and wild raspberries. Notes of mint, bay leaf, musk, spiced tea. Crushable but interesting, funky and spicy, but fun. Made from the pomace of whole-cluster-pressed white grapes (Marsanne and Vermentino) and from red grapes for rosé or pét nat (TInta Roriz, Primitivo and Tannat), with no added sugar. (88 points)

2019 Troon Vineyard Pét tanNat - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $30
Deep yellow color. Bright and zesty aromas of white pepper, white flowers, sea salt and chalk on top of apricot and tart yellow plum fruit. So crisp on the palate, this is chalky, dry, bright but sports delightful creaminess and fine bubbles. Tart yellow plum and lemon fruit mix well with talc, chalk, limestone notes, even some cucumber and tobacco leaf elements. This is brisk and light-bodied but shows a lot of depth. It’s also really versatile and a really hard wine not to love. Nothing but praise for this effort from Troon. Made from 100% estate Tannat. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Celebrating Summer & Natural Wines with Maryland's Burnt Hill

I've grown tired of the term "natural wine."

When I first heard the term pop up a decade or so ago, usually among conversation with my dorky wine trade friends, it made some sense. It was used to describe a lot of the wines we all had liked for a long time: lower alcohol, no overt new oak, sometimes fizzy (Pet-Nat, for example), sometimes funky and quirky.

The winemakers who extolled this old-school, less technologically-focused aesthetic seemed like the kind of crunchy nerds I loved to hang out with. The focus on sustainability, biodynamics and other eco-conscious farming and winemaking methods has always resonated with me. And, of course, I found the wines to be delicious and fascinating.

But the term avoided definition or classification, and was used loosely and unsparingly. As the movement grew and garnered more and more attention in the culture, I noticed two loose camps begin to assemble.

The Natural Wine Evangelists seemed driven by levels of conviction and certainty that were beyond me. Now, I'm a semi-crunchy, organic-loving, biodynamic-supporting, nature-worshipping outdoorsman who really enjoys plenty of low-sulfite, extended skin contact, funky wines. But while I support low-intervention farming methods for environmental reasons, I'm unconvinced natural wines are any better for the human body. I have similar worries about the holier-than-thou attitude that seems to be a byproduct of the certain elements within the natural wine movement.

Then there are the Natural Wine Haters. They write off the entire movement as misguided, the wines as undrinkable, the natural wine-lovers as hipster lemmings. Their disdain for natural wines rivals the missionary zeal of the other side.

I'm not happy in either camp, although my sympathies lie with small producers trying to minimize their impact on the environment. But I find most of the discussion about what is and what is not "natural wine" and why it's good or bad to be exhausting. This is why I've written so little on the topic.

But I was beyond stoked to attend the inaugural Solstice Festival at Burnt Hill in Montgomery County, Maryland. This natural wine festival attracted me, first and foremost, because of the people behind it. I first wrote about Old Westminster Winery in 2016. I could tell Drew Baker and his sisters Ashli and Lisa were onto something great, and I was going to keep my eye on them.

When they broke ground on their new farm, Burnt Hill, and started talking about Maryland Gamay, I was all ears. Dave McIntyre at the Washington Post has a great, in-depth write-up on Burnt Hill in the Washington Post, which I won't attempt to reiterate because, well, he gets it all down pretty damn well here.

The Burnt Hill Crew teamed up with a few dozen low-intervention winemakers from all over the country (and world). They all gathered at a gorgeous farm in the rolling hills of Clarksburg, Maryland, to crack open bottles and spread positive wine vibes.

Only a cynical teetotaler could manage not to have a total blast at this festival. Hundreds of people gathered under large tents to taste unique and quirky wines of all different varieties and styles. I saw a few greased mustaches, but found nary a hint of pretension. I met up with some old friends, made a few new ones, and enjoyed supporting one of the Mid-Atlantic's most exciting wine producers.

Through it all, I managed to take a bunch of tasting notes on some delicious wines, which are included below. Enjoy! I sure did. And I can't wait to celebrate the Summer Solstice again at this festival in 2020.


Broc Cellars

2018 Broc Cellars Chenin Blanc Pétillant Shell Creek Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Yeasty, lots of fizz, pear, honey, dusty, tart lemon, some spice and herbal tones, Really delicious. (90 points)

2018 Broc Cellars Friulano amore bianco Fox Hill Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino
Tropical, floral, peach nectar, tiny bubbles, lots of flowers and fruit, balanced nicely, a transparent style, and I love it. (91 points)

2017 Broc Cellars Cabernet Franc Whole Cluster - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
Juicy, cherries, plush, not too herbaceous, bright and spicy, whole-cluster fermented. (88 points)

Hiyu Wine Farm

N.V. Hiyu Apple Floreal Cider - USA, Oregon, Hood River County
Juicy, crunchy, fizzy, fun. (87 points)

2018 Hiyu Zinfandel Smockshop Band Rosé - USA, Oregon, Columbia Valley
Gorgeous cherry color. Rich texture, juicy raspberries, with spice and herbs. (89 points)

2018 Hiyu Grenache Smockshop Band - USA, Oregon, Columbia Valley
Spicy, earthy, strawberries, bright and fun, spicy and tangy with a charcoal and forest floor element. Very exciting. (91 points)

N.V. Hiyu The May II - USA, Oregon/Washington, Columbia Gorge
Deep auburn color. Shows caramel, spiced tea, tons of pepper and grilling spices, shows some tannins, some volatile acidity but it’s woven in nicely (kind of like Madeira) and the wine shows a lot of depth and intrigue. A blend of wines from five different vintages, skin-fermented Pinot varieties. A weird wine that actually really works out, and I’m a fan. (89 points)

Georgian wines

2017 Chona's Marani Mtsvane & Rkatsiteli - Georgia, Kakheti
Almond, hay, waxy, apricot, sea salt. (88 points)

2017 Chona's Marani Rkatsiteli - Georgia, Kakheti
Very perfumed, briny, big texture, spiced tea and ginger, mint and menthol elements, a really balanced but wild wine that I found really impressive. (90 points)

2018 Baia's Wine Tsolikouri - Georgia, West Georgia, Imereti
Quince, orange marmalade, super zippy with briny, salty complexities, and hay, waxy, honeyed notes. Really unique and fascinating, totally delicious, a real surprise and treat. (91 points)

2018 Gvantsa's Wine Aladasturi - Georgia, West Georgia, Imereti
Super spicy red with cherries, strawberries, lots of incense, potpourri, spiced tea, bitter black tea. Fun stuff with some unique spicy flavor profiles. (88 points)

2016 Naotari Rkatsiteli Kisi Khikhvi Amber Wine - Georgia, Kakheti, Kvareli
So briny, dusty, earthy, a bit heavy and bitter. Pass. A blend of Rkatsiteli, Kisi and Khikhvi. (80 points)

2017 Orgo Saperavi - Georgia, Kakheti
Dark tart, anise, incense sticks, tangy plum skins and pepper. Fun! (87 points)

California

2017 Matthiasson Chardonnay Harms Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley
Salty and fresh with lemon crème, apricot. Pure, salty, a bit briny but lots of lush elements of honey and cream as well. Very pretty Chardonnay from Matthiasson, per usual. (91 points)

2018 Matthiasson Mataro Tendu - USA, California, Central Valley, Yolo County
Fresh, spicy, tangy, yet shows complexity. Vibrant red fruits with earthy, savory elements. Complex yet goes down so easily. (88 points)

2018 Matthiasson Tendu - USA, California
Barbera-based blend. Juicy, tangy but sweet cranberry sauce, raspberries, fun and fresh and crushable. (87 points)

2017 Matthiasson Grenache Syrah Mourvèdre - USA, California, Napa Valley
So fresh and floral with tangy red fruits and lots of pepper, potpourri, grilled herbs. Juicy but it’s really complex and spicy as well. (90 points)

Lightwell Survey

2016 Lightwell Survey Cabernet Franc The Weird Ones Are Wolves - USA, Virginia, Shenandoah Valley
Crushable, punchy, juice, nice floral, spice, tea elements. Has dashed of Petite Manseng and Riesling in it. Pretty cool stuff. (88 points)

2018 Lightwell Survey Blaufränkisch Dark Days - USA, Virginia
Really dark ruby color. Lots of fun, fresh, juicy strawberries and floral, spicy tones. 100% Blaufränkisch. (87 points)

2016 Lightwell Survey Hintermen - USA, Virginia, Shenandoah Valley
Peachy, tennis ball, magnolia flowers on the nose. Floral and juicy on the palate with super ripe peach, drizzled with lime, a mineral-rocky undertone. Really fun and cool stuff. Riesling and Petite Manseng. (89 points)

Fausse Piste

2018 Fausse Piste Muscat Fish Sauce Pet-Nat - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Eola - Amity Hills
Spicy, floral, punchy, fine bubbles, really fresh. (88 points)

2018 Fausse Piste Oyster Sauce Grenache Rosé - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Rogue Valley
Grenache rose. Fresh cherries and strawberries, racy acidity. (89 points)

N.V. Fausse Piste Pizza Sauce - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley
Zesty, cherry-driven, accessible but has this complexity of texture and flavors from the aging and solera-style of this wine. Easy-drinking in the best sense of the word, but a lot of fun, too. A multi-vintage blend of all sorts of red (and some white) grapes. (90 points)

Scholium Project

2015 Scholium Project La Severità di Bruto Farina - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Mountain
Deep texture, rich fruit (orange, lemon, peach) with spicy herbal tones. Vibrant and impressive. (89 points)

2016 Scholium Project The Prince In His Caves Farina - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Mountain
Lemon, peach, honey, waxy notes, some mint and white pepper. This has some skin-contact that gives it a lot more textural depth and some cool olive oil and almond elements. (90 points)

2016 Scholium Project 1MN Bechtold Ranch - USA, California, Central Valley, Lodi
So aromatic with rose potpourri, pepper, clove, warm clay, tangy red apple and raspberry fruit. Gorgeous texture, dusty tannins, crisp acidity, crunchy red fruits laced with all sorts of earthy, savory complexities. A beautiful Bechtoldt vineyard that should do interesting things with age. Wine of the festival for me. (93 points)

Purity

2018 Purity Wine Verdelho Silvaspoons - USA, California, Central Valley, Lodi
Whoa! No formal notes, but this wine wowed me and kept me at this table to try the others. (90 points)

2018 Purity Wine Roussanne Orange Carbo-Crush Oakstone - USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Nevada County
So, this is really fun. Skin-fermented, semi-carbonic Roussanne – and it works! Texturally deep but fresh, with a pleasant bitterness and lots of complex spicy, floral tones. Fascinating and, yeah, weird, but it works. I bought a bottle to blind some wine nerds on and mess with them. (91 points)

2016 Purity Wine Grenache Covfefe Oakstone Vineyard - USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Nevada County
So spicy, tangy, nice grip. Tart fruits with lots of pepper and earth and a fun but not overwhelming amount of funky, beefy notes. (87 points)

2015 Purity Wine Syrah Blackbird - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Mountain
Stewed plums, incense sticks, black pepper, mulling spices. A warm and roasted kind of Syrah, but still nice. (86 points)

Exploring Some Tasty, Rare, Alpine Wines

Dominique Belluard's Gringet vines. Credit: Selection Massale.

I've recently written about some high elevation wines from Arizona and Argentina. I'm fascinated by wines grown in high altitude vineyards. Maybe it's because of the novelty. Maybe it's because I love mountains. Or maybe it's because I find many of them to be crazy delicious.

Whatever the reason, I was excited to get together with some wine nerd friends for a dinner with a loose theme of "Alpine wine."

When you think of the word "Alpine" you, like me, may think: Switzerland. Well, the Swiss make some really good wine, but not much of it. They drink most of it themselves (smart folks, the Swiss), and little of it gets exported. As such, there's only a single Swiss wine in this bunch.

But we did gather up several wines from France's Savoie region (pronounced "Savv-WAH"). This region in far eastern France stretches south from Lake Geneva, abutting Switzerland, and has long been known as a source of après-ski wines. The vineyards are spread out in small enclaves, planted in diverse soils made up of glacial deposits, alluvial soils, lime-rich soils, clay, etc. Some of the grapes here are more recognizable (Roussanne, Chardonnay), but a lot of them are either indigenous or relatively obscure. In terms of white grapes (whites make up the majority of wines from this region) the popular ones are Jacquère, Altesse, Chasselas and Gringet. Mondeuse, Persan, Gamay and Pinot Noir lead the red grapes. While these wines are easier to find here in the States than Swiss wines, let's put them in perspective. Savoie wines make up less than 1% of France's total wine production. But, as this tasting demonstrated, there are some winemakers here doing fascinating things.

Valle d'Aosta is Italy's smallest, least populous region, dwarfed by neighboring Piedmont in terms of size, wine production, and international recognition of the region's wines. This mountainous region where Italy, France and Switzerland meet, is home to the highest elevation vineyards in continental Europe. The topography is so extreme, the amount of land available to plant vineyards is limited, and some of the vineyards are planted at elevations higher than 5,000 feet.

Lastly, we included a few wines from France's Jura region. This region isn't as topographically extreme as the other regions but the vineyards are still planted between 800 and 1,300 feet. The region isn't far from the Alps, this tasting group all loves Jura wines, and we're not sticklers for rules, so we included a few Jura wines into the mix as well.

Lastly, to top things off, I included a wine from the winery who holds the highest elevation vineyards in the world: Bodegas Colomé. Located in Argentina's Salta region, the winery itself sits at 7,500 feet, but it's Altura Máxima vineyard tops out at a mind-boggling 10,000 feet.

My notes on some fascinating and unique wines are below.

N.V. Lambert de Seyssel Seyssel Petit Royal - France, Savoie, Seyssel
This was a lot of fun, a Pet-Nat blend of Molette and Altesse. Rich nose of peaches, lemon curd, candle wax. Rich texture, nice depth, but really zippy and salty as well. Subtle bubbles, creamy-lees notes add texture. I really liked this stuff. (90 points)

2017 Renardat-Fâche Vin du Bugey-Cerdon - France, Savoie, Vin du Bugey-Cerdon
Perfumed and floral on the nose, with candied red fruit mixed with tea, herbs, cinnamon. Sweetness balanced by vibrant acidity and slight bubbles. Juicy, candied red fruits mixed with cinnamon, herbs and tea notes. Fun, crushable stuff. 7.5% alcohol, this is a unique méthode ancestrale blend of Gamay and Poulsard. (88 points)

2016 Robert Gilliard Fendant Les Murettes - Switzerland, Valais, Sion
Well, this was a pleasant surprise. At first it smelled quite “neutral” but with air and warmth it opened up to show peaches, lemon crème, airy/floral notes. Nice depth of texture, a waxy feel but bright acidity. Dusty mineral and chalk notes with hay, honey. Pleasantly subtle and nuanced. Made from the Chasselas grape (a.k.a. Fendant). (89 points) 

2016 Domaine Belluard Gringet Vin de Savoie Les Alpes - France, Savoie, Vin de Savoie
Dense nose – there is a lot in here – but it breathes and show lemon curd, honey, sea salt. Killer depth on the palate, there’s this plump texture but the acidity and minerality are laser-liked, focused, and pristine. Pretty apples and lemons mixed with minerals, smashed rocks, chalk dust and salted almond. Deep, pretty, this really started to sing after a few hours open. My wine of the night. (93 points)

2014 Domaine du Pelican Savagnin Ouille - France, Jura, Arbois
This wine evolved a ton with air. Deep yellow color. Heavy aromas, this is a dense wine, but it opens to show honey, nuts, nougat, saline, seaweed and a big heaping portion of lemon crème pie. The palate shows really rich texture, and the oak is evident, but there’s still this great saline aspect and crisp, crunchy acidity. Deep yellow fruits laced with minerals, honey, almond and salted butter. There’s a lot going on here, and it got more and more expressive. I’d love to see what this does with five to eight years of age. (92 points)

2016 Lucien Aviet Arbois Cuvée des Docteurs - France, Jura, Arbois
The funk blew off to show red apple, spiced tea, pepper and green herbs. Bright and spicy with raspberry and red apple peel, dusty tannins. Zippy and spicy with pepper and herbs. This got more and more smooth and refreshing with air. (90 points)

2016 Château de Merande Mondeuse La Belle Romaine - France, Savoie, Vin de Savoie Arbin
So much laffy taffy on the nose, along with pepper and black tea. The palate is dry, the tannins seem a bit bitter and green, medium acidity. Juicy purple fruit mixes with smoky earth, pepper and black tea. Interesting stuff, but not a very balanced wine. Maybe it deserved more time and air. Made from Mondeuse Noir. (85 points)

2017 Domaine des Ardoisières Vin des Allobroges Argile - France, Savoie, Vin des Allobroges
Loving the nose here, as it’s a big mix of spices and savory elements (pepper, leather, spiced tea, scorched earth) on top of juicy raspberries and black cherries. Plush texture on the palate, with dusty tannins and really lively acidity, the balance is lovely. Juicy raspberries and red apple doused in pepper, anise, charcoal, with smashed rocks and mineral notes. This got more and more expressive with air, and it was my favorite red of the night. A Gamay and Persan blend. (92 points)

2016 Grosjean Petite Arvine Vigne Rovettaz - Italy, Valle d'Aosta
Fascinating stuff. The nose is steely and floral with honey and lemon curd. Creamy depth on the palate but there’s bright acidity and a good dose of saline-infused mineral goodness. Fresh and vibrant with yellow apple, lemons, rich fruit but complex non-fruit elements as well. Balanced, complex, a lot going for it. (91 points)

2016 Bodega Colomé Malbec Estate - Argentina, Salta, Calchaquies
Deep purple color. Aromas are dark and tart with blackberry, blueberry, plum, with lots of loamy earth, cocoa, mint and graphite. Tangy acidity frames the wine nicely, balancing the moderate tannins, the balance is on point. Blackberry and tart blueberry, laced with mineral, graphite, earth. So pure and lively, this is showing very well now but I’d like to see it with a few years of age. (90 points)

Virginia Bubbles for the Holidays

Sparkling wine as a category has been on the rise here in the States for a while. And Virginia is no exception.

Earlier this month I did a round-up of sparkling wines. I love drinking bubbles (especially Champagne) all year, but the holiday season surely correlates with more frequent bubble-popping. But the day after that post ran, I tasted four bubblies from Virginia that I wanted to highlight.

This tasting was coordinated by Virginia wine buff Frank Morgan and attended by three Virginia winemakers and one cidery.

I'm not a huge cider fan, but I was blown away by how good the cider in this report showed. And three other reliable Virginia producers delivered with their sparkling wines.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.


2017 Castle Hill Cider Levity - Virginia
SRP: $25
Golden apricot/honey colored. The nose boasts lots of honey, apple blossom, warm white tea and an earthy-dusty notes. Crisp and zesty on the palate, bright, quite dry, with lemons, apples, apricot, along with notes of spiced tea, honey. Earthy and savory and herbal tones underneath, this is a subtle, vibrant and complex cider. 50% Harrison apples with the rest a mix of nine different varieties. Fermented in buried terra-cotta pots (a la Georgian qvevri) with native yeasts, 7.9% alcohol. (90 points)

2018 Early Mountain Malvasia Bianca Petillant Naturel - Virginia, Central Virginia, Madison County
SRP: $27
Pale lemon color with fine bubbles. The aromas burst with dandelion, orange blossom, lychee, guava and honey. Crisp and bright on the palate, with light bubbles, yet lots of juicy tropical fruit (lychee, green melon, guava). Brisk, bright and fun but lots of honey, orange blossoms, nettle, clean laundry. Another solid Mid-Atlantic Pet-Nat, and I think Malvasia Bianca lends itself very well to this style. 10% alcohol. (89 points) 

2014 Veritas Vineyard Scintilla Brut - Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $30
Light gold color. Rich and biscuit with sugar cane, apricot, baked apple, bread dough, toasted almonds, some yellow flowers. Plump texture on the palate, richly fruity with apples, apricot, lemon crème pie, but bright acidity keeps it fresh. A mix of doughy, flinty, musky notes as well, with some floral and honey on the finish. 90% Chardonnay and 10% Cabernet Franc, 12% alcohol, 12 g/l dosage. (87 points) 

2017 Rappahannock Cellars Sparkling Rosé - Virginia, Northern Virginia, Rappahannock County
SRP: $34
Bright watermelon color. Nose shows strawberries, white cherries and red apple peel topped in strong musk, white pepper, clove and nettle notes. Bright acidity frames the wine nicely, but this has a lot of textural depth and richness. Red apples, strawberries, cherries, the fruit is generous and deep and topped in white pepper, chalk dust, honeyed white tea and basil notes. 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 30% Cab Franc, 10% Petit Verdot, 8 g/l dosage. (88 points)

Showcasing Diverse Single Vineyards with California's Onward Wines

Faith Armstrong Foster. Credit: Onward Wines

Faith Armstrong Foster is a UC Davis-educated winemaker who earned her winemaking chops in Napa, but the vineyards that attract her rest well off the beaten path.

Her Onward Wines brand, she explains, is about highlighting unique and fascinating sites in order to craft single-vineyard, single-variety wines. “The whole brand is about showcasing growers, and what they’re doing,” Faith said during a recent online chat and tasting.

It would perhaps be more accurate to describe these as “single-block” wines, as her contracts with growers relate to a specific part of each vineyard, meaning she deals with the same section of vines each vintage. “It’s about a particular part of a vineyard,” she said, which allows her to work with the grower on specific farming methods to suit the vines.

Her vineyard sources are diverse, spanning many appellations and microclimates. She makes several different Malvasias from a site called Capp-Inn Ranch in the Suisun Valley, located two valleys inland from Napa. East of Carneros, she described this site as similar in soil and climate to fruit she’s worked with in Carneros, and the result is a crisp, refreshing style of Malvasia with loads of floral and tropical fruit notes.

Faith also sources what is clearly some stellar Pinot Noir from a site called Hawkeye Ranch in Mendocino’s Redwood Valley appellation. The Redwood Valley is one of those Wild West kind of appellations, sparsely populated with vines, lacking big tasting rooms or tourist traps. I’ve traveled extensively in this area of Mendocino, and it absolutely gorgeous. Small, usually organically farmed, vineyards are nestled among untouched redwood groves, cold streams and the occasional pear orchard. She enjoys working with this site because, as she puts it, the lack of grapevine monoculture means the vineyard, “has a lot of capacity to maintain natural balance.” And she makes three different wines from this same site: a rosé, a still red and a rosé Petillant Naturel sparkling wine.

Lasty, I tasted her Casa Roja Carignan, a sandy soil site in Contra Costa County. These ancient vines, planted in the late 1800s, impart a deep sense of spicy minerality and exotic complexity. For the price, the wine is a stunning example of what this grape (an historic staple of California winegrowing) can do. Faith has several other wines in her portfolio that I haven’t tasted (but would love to) including a Cerise Vineyard Pinot Noir, a Redwood Valley Zinfandel, and a few others.

Overall, Faith’s wines take a minimalist approach, with quite low alcohol levels, brisk acidity, tart but tasty fruit, and a host of non-fruit elements that make the wines really pop. They are as delicious as they are fascinating.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2016 Onward Wines Malvasia Bianca Petillant Naturel Capp-Inn Ranch - California, North Coast, Suisun Valley
SRP: $24
Pale lemon color with lovely faint bubbles. Complex floral aromas (baby’s breath, orange blossom, honeysuckle) on top of guava, white peach and lime zest. Crisp, bright and nervy palate with a slight salty, chalky mouthfeel and a refreshing tingle from the bubbles. Brisk and bright with orange pith, lemon wedge and so many floral elements: dandelion, orange blossom, clean laundry, potpourri. Tons of fun. (89 points)

2016 Onward Wines Malvasia Bianca Capp-Inn Ranch - California, North Coast, Suisun Valley
SRP: $20
Pale lemon color. Bursts with aromas of guava, lychee, white grape jelly and lots of spicy floral elements. Medium-bodied with crisp acidity and flavors of juicy peaches and lychee with lime drizzled on top. So many floral elements: baby’s breath, dandelion, buttercups, honeysuckle. So, so floral, but it’s not one-dimensional. Crisp finish. (88 points)

2016 Onward Wines Pinot Noir Rosé Hawkeye Ranch - California, North Coast, Redwood Valley
SRP: $22
Pale copper color. Bright and fresh aromas of yellow and white flowers, cantaloupe, lime and wild strawberry. Zippy on the palate with a bright personality but some creamy, chalky textural elements. White flower potpourri, saline and white pepper top the tart strawberry fruit. Light but not simple, this has a bright mineral presence and long floral elements on the finish. (88 points)

2013 Onward Wines Pinot Noir Hawkeye Ranch - California, North Coast, Redwood Valley
SRP: $38
Vibrant ruby color. Aromas of crisp strawberries, raspberries, rose hips, with rhubarb and mushroom notes. On the palate this is crisp and lean at 12% but shows some dusty tannic backbone and crackling acidity. Juicy cherry and raspberry fruit mixes with rhubarb, sage, tar, gravelly earth. Brisk but enough depth, personality and complexity to pull it off, makes to entice the cellar for 2-5 years. Wow. (92 points)

2014 Onward Wines Carignan Casa Roja - California, San Francisco Bay, Contra Costa County
SRP: $30
Neon purple color. Gushing aromas of black cherries, red and black currant, tart blueberry, along with loamy soil, steak rub, coffee grounds. Full-bodied with some solid grip to the tannins but the acidity really helps a lot. Roasted plum, blueberry and black cherry fruit laced with tar, roasted chestnut, charcoal smoke. Complex, savory, spicy, really beautiful stuff with a long finish. This should do cool stuff over the next 3-4 years. (91 points)

Nerdy & Delicious Loire Wines from Domaine de la Roche Bleue & Christophe Foucher

If I’m looking for fascinating, intriguing and delicious wines in the $20 range (which is always the case), I look to the Loire Valley of France. 

Many of these offerings are “natural” wines in the sense that the winemakers use organic viticulture and take a minimalist approach in the winery (old oak, native yeasts, no additional sulfur, some wines are corked by hand). They’re not “natural” wines in the sense that they’re faulted, off-kilter or shittily-made (per a Robert Parker-style critique). 

They’re pure expressions of fascinating grapes planted in unique soils and produced with minimalist intervention in the cellar. If you’re tired of in-your-face oak and alcohol, and looking for wines that express their terroir like poetry, there are so many options to explore in the Loire Valley. These three wines, and these two producers, are just some of many. And, taken together, these are three of the best $20 bottles I’ve purchased all year. 
 

Christophe Foucher organically farms the quirky Menu Pineau grape in the village of Touraine, ferments his wines in old oak and doesn’t add any sulfur. Sebastien Cornille is the winemaker at Domaine de la Roche Bleue, and he makes some fascinating whites, reds and a sparkling rose that are guaranteed to get your palate and intellect going. Two out of the three are labeled as Vin de France because, despite coming from sites in Loire Valley appellations, they don’t adhere to appellation rules regarding permitted grapes. But they express their Loire terroir with finesse.

Below are my notes on three exciting Loire wines I tasted recently.   

2014 La Lunotte (Cristophe Foucher) Le Haut Plessis - France, Vin de France
$15
Light gold color, a bit cloudy but no worries. Unique nose of preserved lemon and quince, potpourri, nettle and briny ocean jetty. Medium-light-bodied with racy acidity. Bitter lemon meets quince and melon rind, and the fruit is laced with minerals and complex spicy/herbal notes. Precise and clean but also exotic and flashy. Tingling, mineral-heavy finish, this would verge on the austere if it wasn't so damned delicious. A very interesting wine made from a grape called Menu Pineau, which is sourced from vineyards in Coufy, near the estate of Clos Roche Blanche. (90 points)

2014 Domaine de la Roche Bleue Jasnières Sec - France, Loire Valley, Jasnières $20
Light gold color. The nose is brisk and salty with seashells and white flowers on top of limes and lemon meringue. The palate is so bright and zesty but it’s not lean, showing juicy and creamy aspects. Gorgeous lime, lemon and apricot fruit topped in complex mineral, chalk, seashell, white tea and honeycomb elements. Long and nervy but so delicious. Such a great Chenin Blanc for $20. Comes from 10-25-year-old vines planted in clay/silex soil on limestone. That’s it — anything from this producer, I’m buying on the spot. (90 points)

2015 Domaine de la Roche Bleue Vin de France La Petillante - France, Vin de France
$18
What a cool wine. A rose pet nat made from 100% Pinot d’Aunis grown near Jasnieres (but a Vin de France appellation). A pale rose color in the glass with light froth. Salty and spicy on the nose with some apple peel and white cherries. It's tart and bracing on the palate and insanely refreshing. Ripe strawberries mix with tart white cherries, and I get loads of minerals, chalk, seashells, some nettle and white pepper. Not too weird, but definitely exciting and nerdy. This wine is so refreshing and delicious that it almost feels hydrating to drink. Love it. (90 points)

These wines were imported by Fruit of the Vine and I purchased them from Chambers Street in NY, NY.

On Election Day, Raise a Glass of American Wine

Election Day is finally upon us. And we have survived it — so far.

First, go fulfill your civil, personal, moral (spiritual, if you’re into that) obligation: Get off your ass and VOTE. After that, I think we all need to uncork some wine.

“This election season has been long, brutal, and exhausting,” says everyone, from every spot on the American political spectrum. 2016 has been sopping with negativity, divisiveness and vitriol. But we have a reason to hold our heads up high, Americans. We are living in the midst of the American wine renaissance. Seriously. That is a thing.

Blue states, red states, swing states, all of them are home to beautiful vineyards and winemakers seeking to represent their sliver of land by making wine from it. Wherever you live in this massive, diverse, amazing country of ours, you’re not too far from a winery.

“Oh,” you say, “I don’t live in the Bay Area. There’s no good wine around here.” Yeah… I’m going to have to go ahead and… disagree with you. Most of the American populace is located within a weekend trip away from some beautiful wine country and some delicious local wines. 

From sea to shining sea, America is packed with absurdly beautiful wine country. Get out there and check it out!

Long Island? Packed with exciting wineries. Ditto for the Finger Lakes region of New York. I live in DC, and in less than two hours I can hit the road and visit one of dozens of amazing wineries in Virginia and Maryland. Texas’ Hill Country is home to a bunch of exciting, spicy wine. Arizona? Don’t get me started about the kick-ass wines coming out of Cochise County and the Verde Valley. Washington State is a gold mine. Oregon produces some of the best Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays in the world. And determined winemakers are bottling delicious wine in Missouri, Michigan, Colorado, New Mexico, New Jersey, Ohio, and on and on.

I’m rambling. Point is: America is a goddamn goldmine of wines. Get out there and explore.

Earlier this year, a fellow booze writer Dan Dunn published a hilarious book called “American Wino: Reds, Whites & One Man’s Blues.” In it, he recounts the true story of failed love, devastation from the death of his brother, and his means of escape: a cross-country trek across our great American viticultural landscape.

Basically, he drives, visits wineries, talks with locals, and drinks. I reviewed the book here, but here’s the boiled down version: “A lot of wine writing can be either stuffy to the point of suffocation or uninspired to the point of meaninglessness. Dan’s writing avoids both of these pitfalls. He pretty much gets loaded, waits for hilarious shit to happen, and then writes it down.” Dunn finds good wine and good times all over this country, in states you may never have considered visiting. His cross-country trip is quite a feat, but there are wineries in your home state worth checking out.

Drive out to a vineyard. Walk around with a loved one or the family or your dog. Pop into the tasting room and order a flight. Taste through everything they have, and keep an open mind. Ask about where the grapes come from, why this particular place works for the type of grapes they are growing, and how they make the wine. Listen to winemakers — as a group of professionals they are among the coolest people you’ll ever meet. Wine snobbery exists, of course, but not in the vineyard, and not in the barrel room. It’s the perfect place to learn about wine and, by tasting, to learn what you like.

To give you a drop-in-the-bucket sampling of what I’m talking about, I’ve included a few wine recommendations from all over this awesome country of ours.

USA! USA!

The Federalist “Dueling Pistols” (California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley)
To pair with this insane election cycle, a new red blend has hit markets around the U.S., The Federalist. It’s a blend of Zinfandel and Syrah from Dry Creek Valley, a haven of old school (and old vine) California Zinfandel. The label makes me think of our federalist voting structure — which can make things very frustrating on a local level, but which provides tremendously effective protection against anyone who would ever attempt to “rig” an election through “voter fraud.” (That’s not a real thing, by the way.) This wine, on the other hand, is a mouthful of fresh cherries and raspberries with some smoky oak and vanilla. A blend of 50/50 Syrah and Zinfandel, and better than a lot of other red blends in this price range ($17).

Stinson Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc (Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello)
Pale straw color. Smells of tart green apples and limes mixed with juicy pears and an impressive amount of chalk, white pepper and sliced jalapenos. Rocking acidity on the palate, which balances nicely with the moderately waxy mouthfeel. This is a delicious but vibrant Sauv Blanc with limes, apples and peaches. The fruit is topped with mountain stream, honeysuckle, sea salt, chalk and sliced jalapenos. This Sauv Blanc has a little bit of everything rolled into its character. Crisp, refreshing finish. A consistently exciting and dynamic Virginia Sauvignon Blanc, vintage in, vintage out. About $25.

Old Westminster Winery Albariño Petillant Naturel Home Vineyard (Maryland, Central Piedmont, Linganore)

This is one of the coolest wines I’ve come across all year. It’s a rare (and wonderfully bizarre) style of sparkling wine made from Maryland grapes (the variety hails from northern Spain). It smells of lemons, limes and musky perfume. On the palate, this is so pleasantly vibrant with subtle bubbles, bright acidity and a light but somewhat waxy texture. Gushes with green apple, apricot and melon, but there’s a deep floral presence in this wine. Nerd level 11! But the deliciousness factor is right there, too. This is Maryland’s first wine of this style, and it comes from the state’s most exciting producer.

Lieb Family Cellars Bridge Lane (New York, Long Island, North Fork)
Smells of black cherries, tart raspberries, and some spicy-floral elements. Refreshing acidity, smooth and easy to drink with a tart appeal of cherries and plums. Mostly Merlot with Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Verdot, this is an impressive value. It comes in bottles, but is also available in box and keg, which is pretty cool. Yes, good box wine from Long Island is a thing. You can find this one for less than $10.

Sawtooth Malbec Trout Trilogy (Idaho, Snake River Valley)
Full-bodied (14.6% alcohol), silky tannins but plenty of structure, the refreshing acid really keeps this wine alive and bright. Chewy blackberry and plum fruit with charcoal, graphite and tar accents, definitely showing its oak signature with chestnut, mocha and dark chocolate shavings, but there’s a lovely balance and freshness to this wine, elegance even. Impressed.

Arizona has some gorgeous wine country

Arizona Stronghold Vineyard Chardonnay Dala (Arizona, Cochise County)
An infusion of white peach, honey and white flowers. Rich and creamy but bright and tangy at the same time. White peach, yellow apple and apricot mix with notes of hazelnut and honeycomb. Very nice, especially for $10-$15! Arizona wine country is remote, unique and shockingly beautiful.

Hawk Haven Talon (New Jersey, Outer Coastal Plain)
Impressive structure, refreshing acid. A cherry-driven wine (juicy but the fruit isn’t too sweet). Smoky cedar notes, with earth and candied nuts. A 50-50 blend of Merlot and Syrah from estate grapes. Pretty cool they were able to pull off Syrah, as it isn't easy to grow in coastal Jersey. If you’re traveling in South Jersey, check this place out! Not cheap (about $30), but this Jersey boy will call out anyone who says good wine can’t come from Jersey.

N.V. Gruet Winery Brut (New Mexico)
Such a solid sparkler for the price (about $12-15 depending on your market). Melon and lemon themes mix with crisp acid, a bit of creaminess and some nutty notes. A delicious wine that’s both inexpensive and wildly popular at parties. Did I mention this is a Pinot Noir and Chardonnay-based sparkling wine (made via the same method as Champagne) is from friggin’ New Mexico? Do a Google image search for New Mexico vineyards and tell me that doesn’t look like a stunning place to visit.

Winery to Watch: Maryland's Old Westminster

In recent years, Virginia wine has been getting the recognition it deserves from more and more wine consumers and critics. But what about its neighbor to north, Maryland? After all, the climate and soils of the Virginia and Maryland Piedmont are quite similar, and wine producers in Maryland have been taking viticulture and winemaking seriously for decades. (The state's winemaking history goes back to the late 1600s.)

Checking out the Home Vineyard - Old Westminster Winery.

I lived in Maryland for a few years and tasked myself with touring and tasting as much as possible. I worked some harvests, pressed some grapes, volunteered at local wine events, worked tasting tables at the Maryland Wine Festival, and covered Maryland wine for a local newspaper. In the mid- and late-2000s, I found a lot of wines that were less than exciting. I'm talking about lots of (non-grape) fruit wines, off-dry, off-balance or thin wines. I did find some good juice from producers like Elk Run, Suguarloaf Mountain, Boordy, Cygnus and others. But, for wine exploring trips, I started heading to Virginia.

Maryland wine has changed. Shit is getting real.

Old Westminster Winery is taking the lead and making some of Maryland's most exciting wines. Along with producers like Serpent Ridge and Black Ankle, Old Westminster aims to prove Maryland wines are legit. For me, the evidence is clear. If you're skeptical (understandable), I invite you to seek out these wines with an open mind.

Old Westminster is a family affair, dating back to 2008, when Jay and Virginia Baker (no relation) decided the rocky soils of their Carroll County farm could be a vineyard. Eight years later, they produce a wide range of whites, reds and sparkling wines that will smash any negative preconceptions you have about Maryland vino.

Lisa, Drew & Ashli - Credit: Old Westminster Winery

The Baker children (all younger than me, damnit) have accomplished an impressive amount in a relatively brief period of time. Lisa crafts the wines, Drew manages the vineyard and Ashli heads up the tasting room and event planning. Together, they're pushing the limits of Maryland wine's potential, and turning quite a few heads (including mine) in the process.

After tasting through a few of their wines this summer, I had to visit. On a hot summer Sunday, I drove through the hills of Central Maryland with my 14-month-old girl to see what was going on.

Growing high quality wine grapes in such a warm and humid climate isn't easy, and as I drove to the winery, I was reminded of how difficult viticulture can be in this region. Do you remember those videos of massive flooding in Ellicott City, Maryland? That same storm had dumped 7 inches of rain overnight on the hills around Old Westminster. Gravel washouts, overflowing creeks, sopping earth —these ain't drought-stricken California vines.

Storms like this happen in the mid-Atlantic, and it's one of the crazy/awesome things about living here. So, given the frequent storms, it makes sense why the Bakers chose to plant Albariño, a white variety historically grown in the Rias Baixas region of Northern Spain. In Rias Baixas, they get plenty of sun, but it's also the rainiest region of Spain. The vineyards are heavily influenced by the Atlantic Ocean and the heavy storms it sends inland. Maryland, sound familiar?

This grape handles wet weather like a champ, and Albariño has the added benefit of making absolutely delicious wines. Old Westminster is making a strong argument with their Albariño: this grape should be planted widely in the Mid-Atlantic. Old Westminster makes a still and a sparkling Albariño (via the Petillant Naturel method) from their Home vineyard. Both are fascinating and tasty iterations of this grape.

So, I met up with Drew Baker at the winery. This place has an impressive tasting room with a lot of indoor and outdoor space. One could throw some seriously hopping wine parties at this winery, which opened last year. Drew poured a bunch of his wines for me to taste and we chatted about what his family is up to. And it struck me: each member of this family has put in a ton of effort in order to pull this off. And after some recent recognition from some food and wine publications, people (myself included) are starting to realize: we are seeing the future of Maryland wine unfold before us.

Old Westminster tends to pick grapes a bit early, which keeps the acidity higher. It also helps the grapes avoid mid-September storms, which can be intense, drench vineyards across the mid-Atlantic, and cause rot problems. The team at Old Westminster are churning out a bunch of different bottles, but the wines share a common thread: freshness, vibrant fruit, subtle complexities, judicious use of oak. The Home Vineyard is producing some stellar juice, but OW also sources grapes from some really interesting sites in Western Maryland. (I hear rumors of limestone soils and higher elevation vineyards. And... maybe... Riesling? More research required.)

I've introduced this project enough. You get it. I'm a fan. So I'll get to the wines. (Note: I sipped these wines and jotted these notes in a strange state of mind: at the winery, with Drew, while entertaining my 14-month-old, who was running around the tasting room shrieking with joy. Not exactly a formal tasting, but a really fun one.)

2014 Old Westminster Winery Chardonnay Home Vineyard - Maryland, Central Piedmont, Linganore
Really solid aromatics. Bright acidity keeps this wine very lively, but there's a relatively creamy mouthfeel with nuanced hints of vanilla to accent the green and yellow apple fruit. Crisp and bright but full of flavor.

2014 Old Westminster Winery Sauvignon Blanc - Maryland, Central Piedmont, Linganore
Salt and floral on the nose and palate with brisk acidity and a lean approach. Hints of white pepper and spice accent the sliced green apple and lime fruit. Bright, clean, nuanced, very impressive stuff for a grape that can be hard to pull off in Maryland.

2014 Old Westminster Winery Trio - Maryland, Central Piedmont, Linganore
This blend changes every year, but this vintage is Chardonnay, Sauv Blanc and Viognier. It's creamy and fleshy with ripe fruit but tart acidity. Hints of sweetness (from an off-dry fermentation of Chardonnay) but it's woven in really well. Nice little floral/spice/honey kick.

2015 Old Westminster Winery Viognier Cool Ridge Vineyard - Maryland, Central Piedmont, Linganore
This is a far more refreshing and vibrant style than most any mid-Atlantic Viognier I've tasted. Picked a bit earlier, the wine shows brisk acidity and, while fruity, is stays away from that extracted tropical style. Bright floral aromas. Crisp on the palate but the peach and melon fruit also has some honey notes. I love this style.

N.V. Old Westminster Winery Revelry First Edition - Maryland, Central Piedmont, Linganore
This kitchen sink blend is a fresh, vibrant and light red wine with lip-smacking acid and bright red fruits. Hints of pepper and earth as well. Delicious, fun stuff.

N.V. Old Westminster Winery Tapestry Second Edition - Maryland, Central Piedmont, Linganore
A multi-vintage blend that includes Syrah and some Bordeaux varieties. Juicy and vibrant with lots of fruit and a surprising dose of structure. Some earthy, pepper notes add complexity.

2013 Old Westminster Winery Channery Hill - Maryland, North Central Piedmont
Wow, this is really impressive juice. Dark, rich fruit on the nose with some leather and spice. Chewy texture, dusty tannins, medium acidity, lots of vibrant but dark berry fruit mixed with some smoke and earth. Downright delicious, too. 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon.

2013 Old Westminster Winery Cabernet Franc Home Vineyard - Maryland, Central Piedmont, Linganore
A bit dense upon first being open, but this is obviously serious juice. Dark, saucy berries mix with cinnamon, clove and pepper. The mouthfeel is rich but velvety smooth. Serious structure for the cellar, but it's got the juicy fruit to make it immediately pleasurable. Lots of pepper, earth, charcoal and clove complexity. Wow, I'd love to sit down with some friends and taste this over the course of an evening, or pop a bottle in five years.