Wine Reviews: locals' summer selections

Happy Labor Day weekend! I, for one, am excited to see September again. We finally got a break from the heat and humidity here in the Mid-Atlantic region, and I’m sure the autumnal decorations and pumpkin spice will be arriving en masse soon.

Growing up two blocks from the beach on the Jersey Shore, we called September “locals’ summer,” and it was my favorite time. The tourists tended to clear out from our beach town while the air and water temperatures stayed delightful all through September. And we still have about three weeks of summer left (meteorologically speaking), so there’s plenty of time to hit the ocean, the lake, the river, or gather up family and friends for a grill-out.

As such, here’s a handful of wines that I’d welcome to any locals’ summer gathering.

I’ve got another Alentejo white this week because, well, they are delightful and fit the bill. And a Godello from Pagos del Galir in Spain will certainly keep the summer vibes going.

Rosé needs a place at the table (or beach), so I’ve got an exceptional offering from Sonoma’s Ram’s Gate and delicious pinks from Languedoc and Provence. I also have some crushable bubbles with an impressive Cava from Poema, and some value-driven Northern Italian wines with Corvezzo’s offerings.

As the evenings get cooler, I’m looking forward to some juicy, spicy red wines, and Chile is a great place to go. I’ve enjoyed the serious depth and value found from the Primus label, imported by Gonzalez Byass. Sourcing organically grown Cabernet and Carmenere from Apalta and Maipo, these wines provide grill-friendly appeal, plenty of stony, earthy complexity, all with very moderate price tags.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

Whites and bubbles

2020 Quinta da Fonte Souto Portalegre Branco - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo, Portalegre
SRP: $26
Deep yellow color. The nose is packed with goodness. I get richer tones of honey, almond and baked bread, pineapples, with brighter and fresher notes of lemon, sea salt, and white flowers. The palate shows a creamy texture, supporter by lively acidity, and the lemon, papaya and pineapple fruit is ripe but tangy. The notes of chalk, honey, hay, nougat, crushed oyster shells and white flowers add a lot to love and contemplate. This is versatile, delicious and beautiful, and I think it should age nicely for a while as well. Arinto with 25% Verdelho, and 60% of the wine was fermented in oak on the lees. (92 points)

2020 Virgen del Galir Godello Pagos del Galir - Spain, Galicia, Valdeorras
SRP: $21
Medium yellow color. Beautiful fruit salad aromas of yellow apple, kiwi and white peach, along with fresh basil, chalk dust and mountain streams. The palate has delightful zestiness and a crisp texture but plenty of depth, with yellow apples, lemons and limes, white peach fruit. Accents of white flowers, basil, honey and sliced cucumber add a pleasant, fresh touch. Focused, fresh, complex, this Godello delivers. Aged six months in stainless steel and barrels. (90 points)

N.V. Poema Cava Brut - Spain, Cava
SRP: $15
Rich yellow color. Lovely nose, a mix of spritely and deeper tones, with limestone and river rocks, hay, yellow flowers, over orange peels, lemon and papaya. Crisp and clear on the palate, the acidity is really bright and the palate has this pleasantly creamy texture with fine bubbles. Pears, lemon and papaya fruit mix with clean, stony, mineral-laden goodness. There’s a ton of complexity packed in here for the price. Xarel·lo, Macabeu, and Parellada, aged 12 months on the lees. (89 points)

2020 Azienda Agricola Corvezzo Pinot Grigio Organic & Vegan - Italy, Delle Venezie
SRP: $13
Medium yellow color. Super floral on the nose with all sorts of yellow and white flowers, mixed with nettle and cucumber slices, over zesty lemon and green apple fruit. Racy acidity on the palate with a creamy feel and flavors of white peaches and kiwi. Notes of rosewater, celery seed and white pepper add some complexity. Bright, spritely, floral and fresh. (85 points)

2020 Azienda Agricola Corvezzo Prosecco - Italy, Veneto, Prosecco di Treviso
SRP: $13
Pale lemon color. Aromas of lemons and green apples, with floral perfume, sea salt, crushed sweet tarts and some white pepper. Fun and fresh, light and crisp with moderate sugar and bright acidity, along with lemon and melon fruit. Floral, fresh, accessible and pleasant. (86 points)

2020 Azienda Agricola Corvezzo Prosecco Rosé - Italy, Veneto/Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Prosecco
SRP: $13
Pale salmon color. The nose shows chalky, crushed sweet tart vibes and honeysuckle with raspberries and lemons. Light-bodied, zesty acidity and juicy bubbles with raspberry and white cherry fruit. Notes of honeysuckle, rose petals, floral perfume and sweet tarts. Fun and fresh, light and balanced Prosecco. (87 points)

Rosé

2021 Les Sarrins Côtes de Provence Rosé - France, Provence, Côtes de Provence
SRP: $25
Pale copper color. This smells floral and bright, with white peaches and lemons, honeysuckle and lilies, with some sliced cucumber and celery seed notes. The palate is light, crisp and refreshing, with lemon, cantaloupe and white peach fruit. I get a lot of cool spicy and floral elements, like dandelion, white pepper, honeysuckle and mint, which adds a nice interesting kick. Fun, crowd-pleasing stuff that shows solid value but also a lot of depth and complexity. Made from Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvèdre and Vermentino. (90 points)

2021 Ram's Gate Rosé - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $38
Light watermelon color. The nose has exquisite tones of chalk dust, saline, flowers for days, rose hips, white pepper, all over top a bowl of fresh white cherries and strawberries. Pure and racy on the palate, this has pleasant creaminess and live-wire acidity, and the balance is lovely. White cherries, raspberries and red apple fruit, tingly, crunchy and alive, backed up with complexities of chalk, mountain stream, limestone. A focused, zesty, crystal clear rose – no rush on emptying these soon, either, as I’d love to try one next summer to see how it has developed. Pinot Noir with 25% Grenache, aged six months in neutral oak barrels. (92 points)

2021 Hampton Water Rosé - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc
SRP: $25
Pale copper color. The nose is spritely and alive, sporting wild raspberry and red apple peel, along with floral perfume and chalky, salty vibes. Crisp as expected but it also has nice textural depth, with flavors of tangy white cherries and juicy raspberries. Notes of daisies, honeysuckle, dandelion and some slight green herb tones add complexity. Bright but shows some honeyed elements as well, this is beach and seafood friendly stuff. A collaboration between winemaker Gérard Bertrand, Jon Bon Jovi and his son Jesse Bongiovi. (88 points)

Reds

2018 Primus Cabernet Sauvignon - Chile, Maipo Valley
SRP: $21
Vibrant purple color. A deep core of tart black currant and black cherry fruit, tossed with tobacco leaf, violet petals, roasted red pepper and tomato leaf – smelling it just makes me want to grill steak and veg. A tart mix of plum and currant fruit on the palate is buttressed by moderately grippy tannins and vibrant acidity. The tones of smoky earth, tar, violets, soy and tobacco add a lot to ponder and enjoy. A lot of freshness and complexity in here. Aged 12 months in French oak, 18% new. (89 points)

2018 Primus Carménère - Chile, Colchagua Valley, Apalta
SRP: $21
Bright purple color. Lovely nose of raspberries and black cherries, topped in a cool mix of spicy bell pepper, black pepper, sage, with nuances of vanilla and cola. Juicy texture, nice grip on the palate but everything stays smooth, with delightful freshness as well. The cranberry relish and black currant fruit is deep and tangy, laced with black pepper, anise, smoky tones and tobacco. Really love this grape and this iteration of it. Aged 12 months in 18% new French oak. (90 points)

2018 Primus The Blend - Chile, Colchagua Valley, Apalta
SRP: $21
Light purple color. Ooh, the nose gushes with sweet cherries, dark plums, and complexities of black pepper, clove, rose potpourri, violet and clay. The palate is super suave with smooth but structured tannins and lively acidity. Fresh plums and cherries, backed up with cocoa, coffee, gravelly earth, and a mix of deep floral and spice tones to unpack. A delightfully balanced and pretty Chilean red, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon with 20% Carmenere, 10% Petit Verdot, 10% Syrah and 5% Cabernet Franc, aged in 2/3 French oak for 12 months. (90 points)

2020 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Organic - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $17
Vibrant ruby color. Aromas of cherries and plum compote, and a fun and spicy mix of tobacco, spiced tea, paprika, tomato leaf and rose hips. Chewy tannins on the palate, moderate acidity, and juicy plum and currant fruit makes for a nicely-balanced, medium-bodied wine. Savory tones of beef, bay leaf and pepper mix with roses and violet petals, some chewing tobacco and mint. A great intro Rioja at a solid price. Aged six months in oak. (89 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: International Grab Bag

In honor of Valentine’s Day weekend, I have a mix of bubbly, fun wines from all around the globe.

This Champagne-less mix of sparkling wines includes some Crémant de Limoux from Faire La Fête, which have a refreshing 6 g/l dosage and a bright appeal. Although they lack doughy, biscuity depth, they’re balanced, lively and offer a lot of complexity for the price. Gloria Ferrer offers a solid vintage sparkler from California, and Cava makes an appearance as well. 

For reds, I recent tasted some widely-available, yummy Malbecs from Argentina, and a big, bold Montepulciano d’Abruzzo as well.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted. 

Bubbles & White Wines

N.V. Faire La Fête Crémant de Limoux Brut – France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Crémant de Limoux
SRP: $19
Medium yellow color. Aromas show tangy lemon and green apple, with chalk, bread dough, biscuits, notes of verbena and white pepper. Crisp and bright on the palate, fine bubbles, nice salty kick with almonds, chalk, crushed shells. Green apples, lemon peel, lime and grapefruit, tossed with some slight honey and bread dough. Bright, light style, but solid depth, especially considering the price. Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Pinot Noir and Mauzac, aged 15 months on the lees. (88 points)

N.V. Faire La Fête Crémant de Limoux Brut Rosé – France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Crémant de Limoux
SRP: $19
Medium salmon color. Nose is crisp and floral, with white cherries, wild strawberries, red McIntosh apple peel. Tangy and zippy on the palate, a light style with bright bubbles, white cherries, red apple. Notes of white pepper, baby’s breath, verbena, and a nice salty minerality that lifts it up. Solid bargain. 65% Chardonnay, 20% Chenin Blanc, 15% Pinot Noir, aged 15 months on the lees. (87 points)

N.V. Segura Viudas Cava Brut Reserva Heredad – Spain, Cava
SRP: $30
Light gold color with fine bubbles. Bready, doughy on the nose with salty, honeyed, floral combinations over peach and lemon. Crisp acidity frames the wine well, there’s some nice bready qualities to accent the lemon and green melon fruit. Sea salt and white flowers on top of nougat, hazelnut elements, it all comes together quite well to offer a more complex but vibrant Cava. Macabeo and Parellada, aged 30 months on the lees. (88 points)

N.V. A to Z Wineworks Bubbles – USA, Oregon
SRP: $20/4, 250ml cans
Aromas of crisp red apples, raspberries and lemon, with white pepper, floral perfume, some cinnamon candies. Juicy cherry and strawberry appeal on the palate, with crisp acidity, and spritzy bubbles. Fun, fresh, with rhubarb, sea salt and sugarcane notes. Easy-drinking, crowd-pleasing stuff, this could be a big hit for summertime treks. Offers a lot more than other canned wines I’ve tasted. Carbonated Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. (85 points)

2011 Gloria Ferrer Anniversary Cuvée – USA, California, Napa, Carneros
SRP: $45
Rich yellow color. The aromas show deep, doughy, biscuity notes, with honey, almond cake, but also brighter notes of chalk, sea spray and honeysuckle. Nice depth on the palate, generous texture with some richness and sugar, but also brisk acidity, which keeps things in line well. Yellow apples, papaya, lime, with deep tones of bread dough, almond brittle, honeycomb, and elements of saline, crushed limestone and chalk. Quite a bit of depth and balance here. 2/3 Pinot, 1/3 Chardonnay, 12 g/l dosage, aged 5 years on the lees. (90 points)

2018 Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Gelblack feinherb - Germany, Rheingau
SRP: $25
Pale lemon color. Bright and inviting on the nose with lime, quince, apricot, some white flowers and crushed rocks. Pleasantly plump on the palate, the bright acidity jives well with the off-dry sugar, so this tastes balanced and vibrant. Lemon, green melon and white peach fruit, tossed with chalky, floral, crushed rock elements. Lovely freshness, balance, and depth but also fun, early-drinking style. 2018 German Rieslings have a lot to offer. (89 points)
 
Reds

2018 Domaine Jean Bousquet Gaia - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Tupungato
SRP: $20
Deep purple. Bountiful nose of sweet black cherries, blackberries, along with a pleasantly floral, herbal mix (violets, mint, eucalyptus), with cocoa and vanilla. Smooth and suave on the palate, dusty tannins, fresh acidity, supported by plenty of juicy black cherry and dark plum fruit. A lot of floral and spice elements (violets, pepper, sage), with nuanced coffee and vanilla notes. 50% Malbec, 45% Syrah, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 10 months in French oak. (89 points)

2018 Alamos Malbec – Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $13
Light purple color. Lively nose of sweet plums and cherries, along with roses, cocoa and vanilla. Smooth and velvety on the palate, fresh acidity, framed nicely with plums, raspberry and cherry fruit. Notes of cocoa powder, earth, vanilla, but there’s also some deeper, more complex notes of earth and graphite, too. Balanced, fresh, lively, I continue to find this a solid, widely-available, value-driven Malbec. (88 points)

2015 Binomio Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Riserva - Italy, Abruzzi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
SRP: $52
Bright purple color. Deep aromatics of floral tea, violets with loamy, charcoal, incense sticks and clove. Full-bodied with solid grip to the tannins, but moderate acidity keeps it fresh. A tart, deep core of blackberry and plum. Lots of pencil lead, earth, tar, anise, coffee, cedar. Complex, floral, deep, this is a beauty of a Montepulciano, and while it has a lot of density, it also shows a nuance and balance, and an underlying stony minerality. This deserves three to four years in the cellar or a good decant. Aged 15 months in French oak and then six months in stainless steel. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Holiday Bubbles Round-Up: Champagne, Prosecco & Cava

The holiday season is in full swing — the lights, the commercials and jingles, shopping, all that stuff. And, right on cue, I’ve been receiving a lot of bubbles for review.

Of course, good bubbles (especially Champagne) are good year-round, but popping the cork on a bottle of fizzy wine during the holidays, with family and friends, it really never gets old.

To help with the holiday sparkling wine shopping, I have a nice mix of sparkling wines this week. I recently tasted through some delightful Champagne, to some surprisingly good Proseccos, and some value-driven Cavas. These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

N.V. Palmer & Co Champagne Brut Réserve - France, Champagne
SRP: $60
Rich yellow color. Bold nose of yellow pears, lemon curd, honey, ginger, but also a nice mix of crushed chalk and shells. Bright acidity meets nice creamy texture on the palate, a broad fruit assortment (apple, apricot, lemon). Nice amount of complexity in the form of sea spray, chalk dust, minerals. Biscuit and honey notes woven in well. Gains depth and complexity with air. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and about 15% Pinot Meunier, aged four years on the lees, 8 g/l dosage. (90 points)

N.V. Bruno Paillard Champagne Rosé Brut Première Cuvée - France, Champagne
SRP: $60
Medium copper color. Chalky, biscuit, sea salty nose with lemon, red apple and apricot fruit, a slight, pleasant musky note. Nervy and brisk on the palate but broad texture, with crunchy red apple, juicy raspberry and strawberry, and nuanced notes of spiced tea, chalk. Brisk but toasty, zesty but plenty of fruit – seems like a holiday crowd-pleaser of a rose Champagne for sure. Pinot Noir with some Chardonnay, the blend includes reserve wine dating back to 1985, aged 3 years sur lie. 6 g/l dosage, disgorged July 2018. (91 points)

N.V. Laurent-Perrier Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature - France, Champagne

SRP: $100
Deep gold color. Super bright on the nose, with a chalky, dusty, mineral, saline infusion, along with sea spray, white flowers, lemon curd and tart apricot. On the palate, this is nervy and precise with a lot of focus. It is has a knife’s edge briskness throughout, yet enough depth and creamy texture for balance, and nuanced bready doughy notes. Apricot, lemon curd and lime, topped in minerals, crushed shells, quinine and white flower tones. This is a brand new cuvee from L-P (their first in 30 years), and they’ve managed to pull off a really good Brut Nature, here. Chardonnay sourced from the Côte des Blancs (Avize, Cramant, Oiry, Chouilly) and Montagne de Reims (Tours-sur-Marne, Villers-Marmery, Rilly La Montagne), aged about six years before disgorgement. (92 points)

N.V. Cantina Produttori di Valdobbiadene Prosecco Val D'Oca - Italy, Veneto, Prosecco
SRP: $13
Pal lemon color. Aromas of white peaches, topped in wildflowers, white tea, nettle and sweet tarts. Crisp on the palate, juicy but tart, with white peaches, lemon and kiwi fruit. Notes of wildflowers and herbs. Food-friendly, simple in a good way, a crisper, dryer style that works well. (87 points)

2018 Cantina Produttori di Valdobbiadene Val D'Oca Punto Rosa - Italy, Veneto, Marca Trevigiana IGT
SRP: $13
Pale copper color. Aromas of red apple, cranberry, with some nettle and musky tones. Crisp and light on the palate with bright acidity on a light frame. Punchy red apples, watermelon, strawberries, topped in some chalk and flowers. Pleasant, crowd-pleasing stuff, made from Pinot Nero and Pinot Grigio. (87 points)

2018 Cantina Produttori di Valdobbiadene Val D'Oca Prosecco Millesiamato Extra Dry - Italy, Veneto, Prosecco, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore D.O.C.G.
SRP: $18
Lemon colored. Aromas of quince, lemon and tangerine, along with white tea, crushed sweet tarts, and an interesting musky, spice element. Fleshy texture on the palate but tart acidity. Lime, quince and apricot fruit mixes well with white tea, honey and chalk. There’s some complex floral and spice tones that are quite attractive. (88 points)

2018 Cantina Produttori di Valdobbiadene Val D'Oca Brut Rive di San Pietro di Barbozza - Italy, Veneto, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG
SRP: $33

Pale lemon color. Steely and bright on the nose, with a burst of lemon/lime, kiwi, and an exciting streak of minerals, chalk and dried flowers and herbs. Lovely creamy depth on the palate, but bright acidity keeps it lively and crisp, delightful balance. Ginger, honey, crushed chalk, white flowers, all of this on top of kiwi, lemon and green apple. This is a really impressive Prosecco that surprised me. (90 points)

N.V. Vilarnau Cava Brut Reserva - Spain, Cava
SRP: $15
Medium yellow color. Aromas pop with lemon, lime, honey, some toasted nuts and baguette. Creamy texture on the palate, refreshing acidity, along with lemon crème, yellow apples. Notes of almond, sea salt, freshly baked biscuits. Fun stuff, this delivers a lot for a low price. 50% Macabeo, 35% Parallada, 15% Xarel-lo, 10 g/l residual sugar. (87 points)

N.V. Vilarnau Cava Rosé Delicat Brut Reserva - Spain, Cava
SRP: $16
Deep copper color. Nose of bright strawberries, cranberry, red apple, along with rose petals, some bread dough and peanut notes. On the palate, fresh acid pervades, but there’s good breadth of texture, and a nice mix of juicy strawberry fruit with crunchy red apples. Elements of sea salt, toasted nuts, baguette, and a spice floral tea note add complexity. This has a lot to show for the price. 85% Garnacha, 15% Pinot Noir, 8 g/l residual sugar. (88 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Wine Reviews: Bubbles

Sparkling wine shows no signs of slowing down with sales up 5.6% in 2018, making for 16 consecutive years of category growth.

Americans love their bubbles. Even after more than a dozen years of growth, sparkling wine in U.S. is still on the rise, up about 5% last year. And, with the holidays and the New Year coming up, it’s a good time to be on the lookout for inexpensive bubbles.

I recently received some sparkling wines from around the world, almost all of which come in under $25 — no Champagne here, sorry!

Most of these wines come from Freixenet Mionetto USA, an amalgamation of the two brands known for their Cava and Prosecco, respectively.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

N.V. Gratien & Meyer Crémant de Loire Brut Rosé - France, Loire Valley, Crémant de Loire
SRP: $18
Deep copper color. Smells of peaches, red apple peel, with chalk, sweet roses and some oregano and mint. Crisp yet juicy and punchy on the palate, with plenty of juicy raspberry, strawberry and red apple fruit. A light, brisk style with salty, floral and chalky notes. Vibrant, tasty, seafood-friendly stuff. (87 points)

N.V. Freixenet Prosecco Extra Dry - Italy, Veneto, Prosecco
SRP: $22
Light lemon color. Nose shows green apples, lemons, faint white flowers. Crisp and light on the palate with plump texture and medium acidity. Lemons, apricots, tangy green apples, this is a light, crisp, straightforward Prosecco with foamy, spritzy, floral appeal. Lemons and apricots topped in white and yellow flowers. Simple but balanced well, and the drier take makes this a really seafood- and salad-friendly Prosecco. (85 points)

N.V. Mionetto Prosecco Organic Extra Dry - Italy, Veneto, Prosecco
SRP: $16
Medium yellow color. Aromas of lemons, limes, crushed sweet tarts, nettle, and a nice mix of white and yellow flowers. Crisp and bright on the palate, not too sweet, quite balanced and crunchy. Green apples, limes and kiwi fuse with chalky, salty notes, and lots of honeysuckle, baby’s breath and floral perfume. A crisp, chalky finish. Good amount going on here in this value-driven Prosecco. (86 points)

N.V. Segura Viudas Cava Brut - Spain, Cava
SRP: $12
Pale yellow color. Aromas show lemon curd and apricot with baby’s breath, sea salt and chalk zdust. Crisp and juicy on the palate with brisk acidity and a slight creaminess to the texture as well. Fresh, vibrant, with yellow apples and lemon curd. Notes of sea salt, cut flower stems and perfume add some complexity. Serious value here. (87 points)

N.V. Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut - USA, California, Sonoma County
SRP: $22
Light gold color. Nose boast juicy peaches, apricot, lemon crème, with chalky, floral, honeyed notes. Crisp acidity and fine bubbles blend well with a round, creamy texture and flavors of sweet white peach, yellow apple and apricot. Notes of honey, chalk, floral perfume add complexity. A reliably solid California sparkling wine that is widely available and a real value. (88 points)

N.V. J Vineyards & Winery Brut Rosé - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $45
Light salmon color. Smells of strawberries, red apples, apricot, light chalky, crushed shell notes, with some spice and white floral tones. Round texture on the palate, slight but balanced sugar, moderate acidity. A dusty, chalky, talc feel with fresh roses, green tea leaves and clove notes to accent the red apple and strawberry fruit. Juicy and plump, but vibrant as well. Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier aged 30 months on the lees. (88 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Starting Off Summer with White Wine

On any given day, all things considered, I'd probably choose a white wine over a red. Maybe its my constant desire to beat the heat, maybe its the foods I like to cook, maybe its my obsession with white grapes like riesling, chardonnay and chenin blanc. Whatever the reason, I'm likely to go for white wine. That probability is even higher when it's June in Washington, DC.

Sitting on my back patio, hanging outside, cooking with seafood and fresh veggies, it makes me salivate for white wine. I've popped quite a few whites over the past week with various friends, and it seemed each one was refreshing and delicious in its own way. Here are a few notes on recent white wines that are the cure for any sunny Sunday afternoon.

Non-Vintage U més U fan Tres Cava Brut 1+1=3 - Spain, Cava
I like the spicy aromas of this wine, like ginger, lemon zest and toast. A lighter styled Cava with lots of acid, citrus flavors and toast. Not too complex, and a little bitter on the finish, but still quite nice. As far as grocery store sparkling wines go, this is a solid one. (84 pts.)

2010 Domanine Bonnet-Huteau Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Les Laures - France, Loire Valley, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine
I've had this wine several times and it always demonstrates itself as a delicious Muscadet with lots of creaminess and minerality. Great with summer salands and appetizers, and delicious on a sunny Summer afternoon. (90 pts.)

2009 Birgit Eichinger Riesling Gaisberg - Austria, Kamptal
What a great riesling for the price. Weygandt Wines in DC had it on sale for less than $25, which is a real steal considering the quality of the juice. Intoxicating, classic riesling aromas: intense minerals, melon, lime and slate. The palate has fresh acid and lots of corresponding white peach fruit. Gorgeous lime and minerals on the finish. A very focused and pretty riesling that will gain complexity for years. I'd love to try this five years from now. (90 pts.)

2010 Domaine Plouzeau Touraine - France, Loire Valley, Touraine
A surprisingly full of nose of nectarine and melon, along with lemon and lime. The palate shows sharp acid, it's like a burst of intensity on the palate, followed up by creamy honeydew melon, lemon and margarita salt. It's an interesting combination of zesty and mineral-driven sauvignon with a richer, more fruit-forward style. Val poured this for some of her girlfriends, and I knew it was going to be a hit. (87 pts.)

A young chenin and an aged riesling: two aswers to heat and humidity.

1989 Weingut Reuscher-Haart Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
This wine, the old man of the week, must've been stored perfectly because the label, the cork, the capsule, everything was in pristine condiction. And the wine itself, while showing the complexity of its years, is still surprisingly fresh and alive. Reuscher-Haart is one of my favorite Mosel producers, and they consistently put out quality riesling at very reasonable prices. As this wine demonstrates, their rieslings can age beautifully. Honey-lemon color with thick legs in the glass. Aromas of lemon oil, nougat, orange zest, smoky slate and petrol, just a lovely combination of mature Mosel riesling aromas. Over time, some lychee nut and pineapple came out as well. The palate has lots of juicy melon fruit, spritzy lemon flavors, fresh pineapple. Crunchy acid with an overall sense of precision. It's subtle in its approach, delicate even, while still maintaining concentrated flavors. Frankly, it's beautiful. The minerality is really attractive with its flavors of blue slate and sea salt. Those mineral flavors combine with a candied orange peel flavor on the long finish, which finishes with a kiss of acid. Superb stuff. Wish I had more. This wine is in a perfect place right now, and should probably be consumed in the near-term, although it will surely develop some crazy aged flavors with another ten years of cellaring. (91 pts.)

2007 François Chidaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Les Bournais - France, Loire Valley, Montlouis-sur-Loire
My friend Bob popped this superb chenin blanc, and we were both really impressed. The aromas have Champagne-like intensity, showing limestone, lemon zest and white flowers. The aromas changed so much with air and an increased temperature, showing pineapple sauce, mango nectar and smoked nuts over the course of the evening. What a gorgeous nose. The palate is huge, starting off with a burst of rich melon and pineapple fruit. Then the acid comes in, searing, with intense minerals and chalk. There is so much canteloupe in this wine, it's ridiculous. I love the mango nectar and slate flavors that linger on the finish. This wine evolved eons over the course of the evening, and it will continue to gain complexity for a decade, easy. Rarely do I find a chenin blanc that has equally massive amounts of richness and minerality. It's an intriguing wine indeed. Good choice, Bob. (91 pts.)

Adieu to a Wine Buddy

My friend Matt (aka Tooch) and I have been tasting wine together since 2008. We've thrown dozens of tastings and shared hundreds of bottles. It's fair to say that most of the best wines I've had over the past three years have been tasted with Matt. Along with several others, he's been at the core of an unofficial wine tasting gang. (Hazing consists of tasting through 10 fruit bomb syrahs in half an hour.)

Since he's leaving DC and moving across the country, a small group of friends got together for one last wine hoorah. We started off at our adopted home of Weygandt Wines and moved to Ripple, a relatively new restaurant in DC's Cleveland Park neighborhood. The food was unique, tasty and masterfully prepared, as usual. However, it was the wines that stood out.

It's been interesting to see how our palates have changed over time, and how they've stayed the same. I have always loved syrahs from the Northern Rhone, and we tasted two spectacular ones at Matt's goodbye tasting. Over the past year, I've gone from a lover of German riesling to an addict. I tend toward rieslings from the Mosel Valley, while I think it's fair to say that Matt enjoys wines from the nearby Nahe region more, or at least more frequently. This tasting included a great riesling from quintessential Nahe producer Dönnhoff as well.

Well, enough of an intro. Let's get down to the wines.

Cheers, Matt, and I hope to see you back in DC soon for even more great wine.

Pre-Game Wines

We started off the evening at Weygandt Wines with two whites and a red.

• 2006 Recaredo Cava Gran Reserva Brut Nature - Spain, Cava
  This was the first vintage-dated Cava I've ever had. In fact, I had never seen one before. It showed a lot of biscuity aromas, along with lemons, pistachios and a hint of balsamic as well. It has a tangy palate with razor-like acid, but it's still quite full. Lots of lime, chalk and a flavor that reminds me of a green olive. Long finish. The bubbles dissipated quite quickly, but it was still a solid Cava. (88 pts.)
• 2006 Clos Roche Blanche Touraine Sauvignon No. 2 - France, Loire Valley, Touraine
  This is one of the most unique sauvignon blancs I've had in a very long time. The aromas are really fantastic. It started off with floral and honeysuckle aromas, and opened up to show banana peel, lamp oil and an aroma that reminded me of soil with lots of rocks. The palate has some weight to it, with pulpy white peach fruit, and medium+ acid. I really enjoyed the complexity and balance of this wine. It has a synthetic cork, which is a shame because I'm curious what this would taste like if it had a few more years on it. (89 pts.)
• 2009 Domaine Guion Bourgueil Cuvée Prestige - France, Loire Valley, Bourgueil
  I didn't know the price point when I tasted this wine, but I would've guessed about $40. I was amazed to hear it was less than $15 a bottle. This is a very serious cabernet franc that offers the depth and complexity of a wine three times the price. Wonderful aromas of sweet blackberries, tobacco, leaves and dense loam. The tannins are fine and almost feel leathery on the palate. The red plum fruit, smoke, beef brisket and green olive flavors glide over the palate. This wine is big, and could improve for years. This wine is a candidate for 2011 Value of the Year. (90 pts.)

Whites with Dinner

What an interesting bunch of chardonnays. This was my first time tasting a Marcassin chardonnay, and it was quite an experience. This being a tasting in Tooch's honor, we had to have a Dönnhoff Riesling Großes Gewächs thrown in, of course.

• 2008 Jean Collet Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre - France, Burgundy, Chablis 1er Cru
  I liked this wine a lot, even though it is somewhat of an anomoly as a 2008 Chablis. The aromas are really explosive, with white peach, mixed nuts and circus peanut candy. The palate is plump and bold. The main flavor reminds me of bruised yellow apples, although chalk and honeysuckle are there throughout. Acid lingers on the finish. I never would've guessed this as a 2008 Chablis, but it was very nice. (89 pts.)

• 2004 Marcassin Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard - California, Sonoma Coast
  This wine was met with mixed enthusiasm by the tasting team. Thoughts about this wine are usually prefaced with: "This isn't really my style of chardonnay, but..." Yes, this chardonnay demands attention. It stands up and grabs your palate and takes it for a crazy ride. The wine is very cloudy in the glass. The aromas changed with air, and each time I smelled this wine I detected another aroma. All sorts of aromas: lemon custard, roasted peanuts, smoke, almond biscotti. Big and bold are words too weak for this wine. Flavors of pineapple upside-down cake, apricot, lemons, buttercups, etc., etc. It's extreme on the palate, but by no means overoaked. A sweet vanilla flavor lingers underneath, but it's equally matched by a dose of chalky minerals. The oily, buttery mouthfeel, combined with the acid, makes this a really intense experience. It's not white Burgundy, but it's a treat. (94 pts.)
• 2009 Crowley Chardonnay - Oregon, Willamette Valley
  I found this wine to be very balanced. Aromas of banana peel, pear butter and honey. The palate shows creamy fruit, highlighted by just a bit of oak. The green apple flavors and the acid keep it in line. This is a very drinkable chardonnay with all the elements in the right place. (90 pts.)
• 2009 Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Großes Gewächs - Germany, Nahe
  I tasted this wine earlier in 2011 and loved it, and it showed even better at this tasting. The aromas are intoxicating: white peaches, whipped honey, lemon-lime and slate. The palate is absolutely delicious, showing plump orchard fruit, apricot and pineapple. The acid and minerals are really high, but the wine maintains a beautiful sense of balance. It's intense, yet so easy to sip. I know Dönnhoff GGs can age, and this surely has a lot of flavors to unravel over time, but it's incredible right now. (93 pts.)

Pierre Gonon St. Joseph

It was a treat to taste two Gonon syrahs with twenty years of age difference between them. Both were fantastic, but I gave the edge to the 1989. While the 2009 was great, it seems time does wonderful things to Gonon's wine.

• 1989 Pierre Gonon St. Joseph Les Oliviers - France, Rhône, St. Joseph
  With twenty years of age, this wine showed very strongly. Mature, sexy aromas of red plums, violets, beef bouillon and charcoal. With air, the wine opened up to show herbal (thyme) and bacon notes. The wine glides over the palate with soft tannins. It's meaty, with cranberry, charcoal and thyme flavors. The acid and rhubarb flavor combine to give this wine a sappy mouthfeel. A distinct note of mint leaf on the finish. What a complex wine, and a great way to bid adieu to an old wine tasting buddy. (93 pts.)

• 2009 Pierre Gonon St. Joseph - France, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph
  It was fun to taste this wine after tasting a 1989 from the same producer. This baby is packed tight, but it's showing serious promise. The aromas are powerful and bold: beef jerky, charcoal and an aroma that reminds me of cow hide. The palate is dense with gritty tannins and plump black fruit. Secondary flavors of pepper, coffee and beef are already present, but will surely unwind with some age. Lovely coffee note on the finish. I love what Pierre Gonon does with syrah, and tasting both of these wines made me realize I need to keep some Gonons in the cellar. (92 pts.)

Three Big Reds

These wines were very impressive, and went very well with my steak dinner.

• 2005 Celler Vall Llach Priorat IDUS - Spain, Priorat
  This is a big, boastful blend of carignan, merlot, grenache, cabernet sauvignon and syrah. The nose is a burst of liquer, black licorice and chocolate-covered berries. The palate is full of ripe fruit, but the tannins and acid come in to save it from being flabby or offensive. Nice black cherry and mocha on the finish. (90 pts.)
• 2004 Copain Syrah Broken Leg Vineyard - California, Anderson Valley
  I've been drinking a lot of older Copain, with much success, and this was no exception. That said, I do think it's in a bit of a strange stage right now, and could probably benefit from another few years in the bottle. Aromas of plum, charcoal and hints of black olive. The palate has gritty tannins, fresh acid, ripe purple fruit, charcoal notes and a long finish. It's good, but I feel like it's still wound up and needs some more time to show its full potential. (91 pts.)
• 2008 Cayuse Grenache God Only Knows - Washington, Walla Walla Valley
  Aromas of wild strawberries, red plums and hint of bacon. It's big and juicy on the palate with fresh plums and blackberry extract. This is just plain delicious. It doens't have much in the way of complexity (maybe it needs time?), but it is way up there on the yummy scale. (90 pts.)