New Wines from California & Arizona

I hope your new year is off to a good start. I’m starting off the year with some wines from two places I love, California and Arizona.

Mendocino County is a place I’ve spent enough time visiting to realize, again and again: I need to spend more time here. The gnarly coast is one of my favorite places, and the wines from all the different AVAs have a lot to offer. I’ve been paying close attention to Mendocino wines over the past 15 years, and there’s a lot to offer. Meyer Family is a good one to check out – based in the Yorkville Highlands, and they also have a tasting room in Mendocino. I first tasted a 2003 Syrah from them that rocked me, and it was a pleasure to revisit their recent offerings.  

I also have some delicious wines from Sonoma, including an interesting white blend Sosie and a banger of a Cab-based red from Hamel Family. I also have a bright, zesty Monterey Pinot Noir that wowed me.

For the first time in two years, I traveled out of my region, and visited family in Arizona over the holidays. I’m a big fan of Arizona wines, and bought some Page Springs Cellars and Dos Cabezas ahead of time for the family dinners. (The wines were great.) The landscape in Arizona fascinates me so, and I’ve spent countless hours hiking and climbing in the desert mountains. And I love that, turns out, a lot of cool people make really good wine out there, too. Most of the winelands are in higher elevation sites, there are always mountains nearby, and winemakers working with diverse grapes and styles. Two wines from Aridus are represented here. Based in Willcox, their wines are more widely available than some others. If you ever find yourself in Old Town Scottsdale, their tasting room is a nice place and a fun visit.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

Copain's Syrahs are Aging Wonderfully

Copain was one of the first California producers I really geeked out on. My first taste was a 2006 Syrah from the famed Brosseau Vineyard, which I tasted in 2009, and I was sold immediately. I bought a case of aged Syrahs (2003-2006) from a friend soon after, and I was blown away by how well these wines were aging. The fruit lasted long, but the non-fruit complexity (in the form of olive brine, black pepper, carnitas, bacon fat) really spoke to my palate. 

I visited the Sonoma winery a few times since, and have bought up Copain wines wherever I find them. Wells Guthrie is the man behind Copain, who founded the winery in 1999. After studying with world-famous Rhone winemaker Michel Chapoutier in 1996, Wells decided to chase his love of Rhone wines in California. He describes himself as a “California winemaker with a European sensibility,” and I think that holds up in his wines. 

While single-vineyard Syrah is what drew me in (and that’s still a huge part of Copain’s vision), Wells crafts some stellar wines from Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Trousseau as well. In 2016, California heavyweight Jackson Family purchased Copain for an undisclosed sum, a purchase that included the winery and tasting room as well. Wells stuck around, however, and Jackson Family stated their intention of maintaining the style of the brand. While I’ve only tasted a few wines made since the sale, that seems to be the case. 

I gathered a few Copain-loving friends recently and decided to open older bottles to see how they were holding up. Not a bad wine in the lot, but there were definitely some stunners. It’s great to see a winery I fell for almost a decade ago still going strong. 

My notes on the wines I tasted are below. 

2010 Copain Chardonnay Brosseau Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Chalone

Wow, this is exceptional and surprising. Such lively aromas, no hints of oxidation or exhaustion here at all, just lemon curd and crushed limestone. Precise acidity through and though, yet the plush texture is awesome. Minerals and flowers and honeycomb accentuate the juicy lemon and yellow pear fruit. Wow, still going strong, and a wonderful showing. This comes from a fascinating site at 1,600 feet in the Chalone appellation with rare combo of limestone and granite soils. (93 points)

2003 Copain Syrah Cailloux & Coccinelle - Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley
Whoa, so smoky and bacony on the nose, and some menthol and mint elements, on top of saucy blueberries. Some volatile acidity on the palate, but not a lot, and its woven in well, and the tannins are quite soft. Tangy blueberries and blackberries, fruit still going, but the wine is just packed with olives and black peppercorns and bacon fat. Loving the smooth, savory aspects in this wine, but definitely at the end of its run. Still lovely, though! (93 points) 

2003 Copain Syrah Eaglepoint Ranch - California, North Coast, Mendocino County
Aromas of blackberries, tart cherries, a lots of smoke and meat. Crisp acidity on the palate, plump texture and the blackberry fruit is still going. Notes of violets, smoke, olive brine, pepper, beef broth and roasted red pepper. Nice and tangy with a peppery finish. Still going! From a vineyard 1,800 feet above Ukiah Valley in Mendocino County. (92 points) 

2007 Copain Syrah Eaglepoint Ranch - California, North Coast, Mendocino County

Darker than the 2003 and more concentrated. Lots of blueberries, plum cake, loaded with violets and black pepper. Silky smooth, still structured though with some dusty tannins. Black cherry and blueberry fruit is alive and kicking, and I love the smoke, olive tapenade, gravelly earth and violet petal elements going on here. This really is a pretty Syrah in a beautiful place. (93 points)   

2005 Copain Syrah Madder Lake - California, North Coast, Lake County
Dark and plummy on the nose with violets and black olives. Surprising grip on the tannins, this is quite dense actually, but some fresh acidity. Black currants and rich black cherries, quite “purple” in its approach. Floral as well with potting soil and violets. One of the wines that needs more time, which I found surprising and interesting. A Lake County vineyard, in red volcanic soils, above the beautiful Clear Lake in Southern Lake County. (90 points) 

2006 Copain Syrah Hawks Butte Vineyard - California, North Coast, Yorkville Highlands
Dark and fruity nose with rich plums and blackberries and a spicy/smoky element. Rich but bright on the palate with structured tannins, bright acidity, and I get a lot of tart currant and plum fruit. Charcoal, smoky bacon, roasted red pepper, coffee grounds, rich earth. On Day 2, this got even more expressive. Still time ahead, but this is very impressive. More put-together and prettier than a bottle of this I had in 2016. Lucky me! This site, north of Yorkville, is full of rocky soils and vines planted in a series of benches and hillsides at the base of Hawks Butte. (92 points) 

2009 Copain Syrah Brosseau Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Chalone
My wine of the night – just a stunner. Dark purple color and lots of rich but tangy black and blue fruit on the nose, along with a deep sense of violets and scorched earth. Fleshy and plump on the palate but structured tannins and refreshing acidity. Blackberry and blueberry fruit, laced with smoke, violets, anise, black pepper, and a pervasive sense of minerals and iron. Gorgeous stuff that has years to go. (94 points) 

2009 Copain Syrah James Berry Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
This was surprisingly closed down (compared to the others). Good stuff inside for sure, it just stayed tight the whole night, even Day 2 it wasn’t as expressive. Gobs of dark fruit on the nose. Structured tannins provide lots of grip, medium acidity. Dense black fruit, iron, smoke, graphite, pepper and violets. Young still, I’d let this sit for three or four years. Damn, Wells’ wine age for quite a while. Iconic Paso Robles vineyard, 10 miles from the ocean, clay over ancient seabed soils. (90 points)

Three Killer North Coast California Reds from the Cellar

As readers of this blog know, I review a lot of wines, especially wines from California. Sure I'm an Old World-lover, but I never go too long without sipping some California goodness. Here's a peak into the kinds of California wines that I buy and cellar.

Two of these wines come from Mendocino (which I've visited several times and love), and one is a rare red blend from Humboldt County. All three of these wines stood out in recent weeks as excellent, exciting wines, all of which could have been cellared further, especially the Bedrock Syrah.

My notes on some stellar wines are below...

2009 Cabot Vineyards Confluence
California, North Coast, Humboldt County
Gorgeous aromas of mushroom, savory spice, anise, roses, rhubarb, on top of red currant and cherries (the fruit is still going!). Crisp acidity frames the wine but the dusty tannins provide structure, along with tart, chilled red fruits, some currant compote, The balance is gorgeous, and the complexity is impressive in flavors of: black pepper, broth, mushroom, leather, black tea. Impressive depth and complexity – this would be a great ringer in an aged Bordeaux tasting. A Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. (92 points)

2013 Bedrock Wine Co. Syrah Alder Springs Vineyard
California, North Coast, Mendocino County
Aromas of saucy backberry, lots of smoke and meat and charcoal, grilled herbs, violets – just wow. Grippy tannins but vibrant acidity keeps it lively. Black cherry and plum fruit, generous but tangy. A host of complex soy, smoke, peppered steak, tar, olive and leather make this complex and astounding wine. I love Bedrock, and this wine in particular, but I think this may be the best one I’ve tasted from Mogran. Hats off, sir. Well done. This has a decade+ of evolution ahead. The most Cornas-y California Syrah I’ve tasted in a while. (95 points)

2013 Radio-Coteau Pinot Noir Savoy Vineyard
California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
Gorgeous aromatic displays: red apple peel, red cherry, along with bright roses, raspberry leaf tea, herbal oils, mushroom – wow. The palate is medium-bodied, the tannins provide solid structure and crisp acidity. Tart red cherries, red currants and wild strawberry, the fruit is gorgeous, and laced with spicy pepper, broth, mushroom, cinnamon sticks. These elements will be even better in 2-5 years, but this is already gorgeous. (94 points)

Screaming Good Alder Springs Syrah from Behrens & Hitchcock

Always a good pairing: Syrah and snowstorms.

Every once in a while, I come across a wine that is so damn good I just have to write a whole post about it. I have to find out an answer to the question: How and why is this wine so awesome?

I recently uncorked one such bottle, a 2005 Erna Schein Syrah “Homage to Ed Oliveira” from the Alder Springs Vineyard in Mendocino County. This wine is a product of Behrens & Hitchcock, the husband-wife vintner duo of Les Behrens and Lisa Drinkward (awesome last name, by the way).

Of course, wine is made in the vineyard, and this vineyard is something special. It’s located in Mendocino’s rugged Redwood Valley appellation, which is a stunning and serene place. I’ve made several trips through this part of northern Mendocino County, and I think about this area often. I’ve never visited this particular site, but I hope to tour the vineyard on my next trip.

Stuart Bewley planted the first vines in the Alder Springs Vineyard in 1993, and it’s since grown to 140 acres. The vineyard is home to Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah and Rhone varieties spread across 31 individual plots. The juice from these low-yielding vines has found its way into bottles from an impressive list of winemakers, including Pax, Novy, Patz & Hall, Vie and Arnot-Roberts. Ranging from 1,700 to 2,700 feet in elevation, some 315,000 vines cling to steep sandstone slopes. It sounds like an amazing site, and given the level of focus on viticulture, it’s no wonder the juice tastes so damn good.

I also like the label and the aesthetic approach. Behrens and Drinkward pay homage to their winemaking mentor, Ed Olivera, in the proprietary name of this wine. They also pay tribute to Behrens’ mother by putting her name, Erna Schein, on the label, and they recognize her baking skills with an image of a mixer. The juice inside is what counts, but I always enjoy the stories and the people behind the wines, and I like it when winemakers honor those who came before and inspired them.

Like all stunning wines should, this Syrah was opened with people I love, specifically my mother and sister. They both really enjoyed the wine, dissecting the nuances as it evolved in the glass over the course of an afternoon. 

My notes:

Inky purple color with some slight brick rims. Smells of blueberries and black currants, dark and saucy, topped with pepper glaze, smoke, bacon fat and green olive tapenade. My sister summed up the smells thusly: “currants and animals.” Opens up with air to show more exotic spices and herbs, maybe lavender and basil, Still quite tannic but they’ve been fined down with age, this is a full wine but moderate acid keeps it quite balanced. The tart currant and blueberry fruit is laced with all sorts of complex and evolving non-fruit elements: bacon fat, smoke, roasted earth, sweet basil, liquefied olives, marijuana, beef jerky. Time has turned this into a very floral and airy wine. Light roast coffee and charcoal notes linger long onto the finish. A gorgeous Alder Springs Syrah that I’m glad has been cellared for so long. Even more time to go, if, like me, you love those olive, meat and herbal components. (93 points)

Two 2009 Syrahs from California

Copain has consistently been one of my favorite purveyors of Cali Syrah.

California Syrah has seen its ups and downs. Many of my wine friends unloaded their Cali Syrah years ago as their palates and interests changed. But I find there are so many producers and such variety that I’ve never grown mildly bored or tired with the stuff. I still buy it, I still drink it, I still love it.

I’ve been cooking a lot at home lately, even more than usual, and I recently grilled up some steaks and sipped on some Cali Syrah from the cellar. I was reminded yet again why I keep coming back to Cali Syrah, year after year.

2009 Copain Syrah Les Voisins 
California, North Coast, Yorkville Highlands 
Huge magenta color. Tons of tart, rich black and red currant fruit on the nose, blackberries, some loam and graphite. Dusty tannins, the red and black currants and cherries taste tart and crunchy, but some nice freshness from the acid. Lots of deep rocky, granite, loam and mineral elements. Some lovely mushroom and nutshell elements on the long finish. Showing a lot of flavor but some class as well. With time some cola and root beer elements come out with some sage and sweet basil. I managed to cellar my only bottle for 2.5 years, but I’d love to try it again in three or four. 13.9% alcohol. Copain produces some of my favorite Cali Syrahs, especially from Mendocino regions like the Yorkville Highlands. I picked this up for $35 while visiting Copain in 2012. 
(91 points)  

2009 Arger-Martucci Syrah
California, Napa Valley
A magenta color. Fresh black and red fruits on the nose, some deep violets and roses. With time I pick up some earthy tones, maybe some charcoal, some peppered steak. Juicy red and black currant fruit on the palate, medium acid, some grippy tannins, adding a dusty feel. I love the olive tapenade and roasted red pepper elements, in addition to pepper and smoke. Some black licorice candies, fallen leaves and slight toast on the finish. Big but complex and showing a nice velvety mouthfeel with time in the decanter. You’ll be fine cellaring this for a few years. From estate vineyards in Atlas Peak. I picked this up at auction for $12, and what a steal it was! 
(89 points) 

Which Cali Syrahs have you been drinking lately?

A Night of Delicious Domestic Rhones

The Rhone Valley of France has always been one of my favorite wine regions, partly because it’s the ancestral home of so many amazing grapes, red ones like syrah, grenache and mourvedre, white grapes like roussanne, marsanne and viognier. And it was here, in the Northern Rhone hills of Côte-Rôtie, where vintners first began co-fermenting syrah with a dash of viognier — which is obviously one of humankind’s greatest ideas.

Another such idea was planting these grapes in California and Washington State. American winegrowers have decades of experience producing stellar Syrahs, Rhone-style blends, as well as whites. Domestic “Rhone” wines feature prominently in my cellar, they make frequent appearances on my dinner table, and they constantly wow me at wine tastings. So it was with much pleasure that I attended a wine tasting dinner with a domestic Rhone theme. Organized by David White of Terroirist (a daily wine blog I occassionally write for), ten of us got together for some domestic Rhone wines and grilled lamb. (Syrah and lamb is a match made in heaven.)

Here are my notes from an evening of epic wines…

Whites

2011 Two Shepherds Pastoral Blanc Saralee’s Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
Smells like those peach ring gummies, sweet white flowers and even a hint of mineral. Tangy acid, plump white peach and canteloupe fruit. A waxy mouthfeel, but this stays crisp the entire time, something I find rare in California white Rhone blends. A blend of 40% Roussanne, 20% Marsanne, 20% Viognier and 10% Grenache Blanc, fermented and aged in old oak. (88 points)

2011 Halcon Vineyards Prado Alder Springs - California, North Coast, Mendocino
What a beautiful white blend. Aromas of peaches and cream, lemon zest, clover honey and vanilla. On the palate, this wine is oily and full but the acid is persistent and snappy. Melon, pineapple and banana mix with notes of mineral and vanilla bean. Juicy and ripe, but it stays elegant. 50% Marsanne, 50% Roussanne, aged in 20% new French oak. (93 points)

2010 Phoenix Ranch Viognier Phoenix Ranch - California, Napa Valley
Fresh and bright on the nose, lemons, limes, potpourri, honeysuckle. Full-bodied, but so crisp and delightful on the palate that it never feels heavy. Pineapple, green melon and white cherry combine with honey and a distinct chalky flavor that I really enjoy. All stainless steel and aged 10 months on the lees. Rarely do I find a Napa Valley Rhone white that’s so brisk. (90 points)

Reds

2010 Black Ankle Vineyards Syrah Leaf-Stone - Maryland, North Central Piedmont
Tasted blind from a decanter. Interesting mix of aromas: cherry sauce, tart berries, fresh tobacco leaf. On the palate this wine is quite soft, which made me think it had some age on it. Fine tannins and crisp acid. Juicy berry and currant fruit, along with leather, tobacco and a hint of tomato paste. A bit of toast lingers on the finish. I had all sorts of ideas about what this could be (a modern style Bordeaux? An Aussie cab?) but I never would’ve guessed a Maryland syrah. It’s not a typical syrah, but it’s a very solid wine. Lots of other tasters enjoyed this wine and everyone was surprised that it came from Maryland. Black Ankle produces some of the best wines in the state, and this bottle is further proof. (90 points)

2006 Syncline Syrah McKinley Springs Vineyard - Washington, Columbia Valley, Horse Heaven Hills
This was my contribution to the tasting. Complex and seductive aromas of roasted coffee, all sorts of mixed berries, white pepper. So polished on the palate with fine tannins and solid acid, combining in a velvety mouthfeel. I love the cranberry, red and black plums, coffee and dark chocolate flavors. So pure on the finish. Despite it’s dark and rich nature, the wine leaves the palate refreshed, not overwhelmed. A beauty that I’d like to revisit in two or three years, except I don’t have any more. Damn! They nickname this vineyard the “Espresso Block” for its dark color and rich flavors. The syrah was co-fermented with 2% Viognier as well and aged in old French oak, which allows the purity of flavors to shine through without dominant oak influence. (93 points)

2008 Betz Family Bésoleil - Washington, Columbia Valley
Herbal on the nose, like rosemary and sage, mixed up with red berries, smoke and rhubarb. Pure velvet on the palate, rich but very balanced by the acid and fine tannins. Flavors of red cherries, strawberry, along with milk chocolate and herbal notes of white pepper and rosemary. Green olive lingers onto the finish. A stunning blend of 82% Grenache, 9% Mourvedre and 9% Syrah. (92 points)

2008 Long Shadows Wineries Syrah Nine Hats - Washington, Columbia Valley
Love the aromatics: cherry pits, blackberry, olive and campfire. Good amount of game and olive to accent the sweet red and black plum flavors. Minerals and charcoal last long on the finish. Overall, very nice,and perhaps I’d rate it higher than 90 if I hadn’t tasted it alongside so many awesome wines. (90 points)

2001 Behrens & Hitchcock Syrah Alder Springs Vineyard Homage to Ed Oliveira - California, North Coast, Mendocino County
Aromas of dark plums, fig, tobacco, soil and dried roses. Fine tannins and medium acid, this wine feels like glycerin on the palate. The fig, date, caramel and smoke flavors are deep and brooding. A dense and serious syrah that still has years ahead of it. I was surprised this was from 2001. If tasted blind I would’ve guessed 2006 or 2007. (92 points)

2008 Saxum Broken Stones - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Ah, Saxum. This blend of 79% syrah, 13% grenache and 8% mourvedre smells like paint, incense smoke, dried roses, blueberries and a whole mess of other things. So complex aromatically, although we did drink this out of a decanter, which I highly recommend. The palate is extracted and thick as motor oil. The fig and blueberry fruit is undeniably delicious, but the fruit is backed up by charcoal, black olive, vanilla and smoke flavors. Very dense and probably capable of much more in a few years. (93 points)

2008 Saxum James Berry Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Obviously, this is a massive wine. That said, what a beauty. A medley of wild berries, figs, charcoal and iron on the nose. Full on the palate with firm tannins and loads of pureed berry and plum fruit. The acid somehow keeps this wine juicy, almost velvety. Packed with secondary flavors of grilled herbs, charcoal, anise, chocolate. A gorgeous beast of a wine that will reward the extremely patient. 52% Grenache, 31% Syrah and 17% Mourvedre. (94 points)

2008 Copain Syrah James Berry Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Another James Berry Vineyard from 2008 and another winner. Mocha, caramel, fig, licorice, chocolate... the nose is incredible. Full and dense on the palate, but the raspberry and plum fruit tastes fresh and the acid is lovely. So complex and layered, with chocolate and caramel and anise. Endless finish that actually tastes crisp and makes you want to take another sip. A beauty that will be even better in five or 10 years. (94 points)

2008 Carlisle Syrah Cardiac Hill Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Bennett Valley
Rich blackberries, earth, olive brine and smoke on the nose. Full-bodied and generous, yet balanced and easy to drink. Great combination of black fruits, meat, olive and charcoal. Acid carries onto the finish, which is long and smoky. I’ve enjoyed wines from Cardiac Hill before, and this is no exception. A good five years ahead of it, I’d wager. (91 points)

1998 Henri Sorrel Hermitage Le Gréal - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
The only actual Rhone wine in the tasting, this Hermitage is orgasmic. The complexity of aromas, the balance on the palate, the length of the finish, all of it is top notch. The aromas are endlessly beautiful: red berry fruit, dried cranberry, anise, olive tapenade, seaweed, oyster brine, musk and mineral. Pure and velvety on the palate, with silky tannins and brisk acid. Snappy red fruit is accentuated by lots of olive brine, crushed rocks, herbs, iron, white pepper, tobacco. One of the best syrahs I’ve had, period. And it’s in such a perfect place right now. As close to perfect as I can imagine. (98 points)

Copain's Eaglepoint Ranch Syrah Does it Again

Nine months ago, I wrote a blog post titled “Another Reason I Love Mendocino Syrah,” the reason being a 2003 Eaglepoint Ranch syrah from Copain. Well, I just finished off a bottle of the 2004 Copain syrah Eaglepoint Ranch, and I guess I have yet another reason (as if I needed one) to love Mendocino syrah.

Copain no longer bottles a Eaglepoint Ranch-designated syrah; it appears the last vintage was 2007. The vineyard sits on nearly three square miles in the Ukiah Valley. About 1,800 feet in elevation, the soils are a mix of decomposed sandstone and loam.

The elevation, the soil, the vineyard management and the winemaking combine to make Copain’s Eaglepoint Ranch syrahs a bold, age-worthy wine that pays serious homage to syrahs of the Northern Rhone Valley.

Here are my notes on the 2004 Copain Syrah Eaglepoint Ranch (California, North Coast, Mendocino County). 

Deep purple color with a bit of ruby and auburn around the edges. The first thing I notice when I start swirling and sniffing is the savory and meaty aromas. They’re just wonderful, and they combine with notes of broth and bay leaf. But there’s also dried berry, cassis and lavender aromas. After a few hours it starts to show some roasted plum and coffee aromas. Basically, we’re dealing with seriously complex and nuanced aromas.

Silky tannins pave the way, and the dried berry, red plum and dusty cherry flavors are perfectly intertwined with beef broth, white pepper and a briny, olive oil flavor. For me, this wine combines the complex earthy flavors and the freshness of a Northern Rhone syrah, but there’s enough of that rich, dark Mendocino berry fruit that I love. Hints of soy and olive linger on the finish. With time, more bacon fat and meat drippings came out, along with dark roasted coffee. A ridiculously complex syrah that could please a lot of (open-minded) Old World palates. It’s in a very nice spot right now, and it has the stuffing to go for another few years.

93 points IJB

Another Reason I Love Mendocino Syrah

Eaglepoint Ranch Vineyard (Purple Teeth Cellars, LLC)

Anyone who’s drunk or talked wine with me has probably heard me rant about my love of Mendocino syrah. First of all, I love Mendocino. It’s a magical place of jagged rock mountains, dry valleys, breakneck turns and a brutal “Land of the Lost”-style coastline. I also love syrah, its uncanny ability to take translate the specific time and place it comes from into aromas and flavors in the glass.

After visiting Copain’s winery in March and tasting through a lot of their new releases, I figured it was about time to open up an older bottle and see how it was doing. (Click here for my March post on Copain’s winery and current releases.)

I decided on the 2003 Copain Syrah EaglepointRanch vineyard. The fruit comes from a nearly three-square-mile vineyard in the Ukiah Valley. This vineyard sits at 1,800 feet in elevation, where the soils are a mix of decomposed sandstone and loam.

Out of the bottle, this wine shows a pretty black cherry color. The currant and plum fruit is soft and lush on the nose, coming across as very seductive. There’s an aroma that reminds me exactly of Ukrainian sausage, which is always spiced with paprika and garlic. I know it sounds like a strange connection, but I’m not kidding: this wine smells like Ukrainian sausage. The aromas shifted like a wave, turning smokier after an hour. After two hours open that meat aroma drifted away, and was replaced by green olive and dried cranberry aroma. Aromatically, this wine speaks to me. And I listen.

The palate shows fine tannins, which glide across the palate with ease. The black cherry fruit is fresh, not baked or goopy. That Ukrainian sausage flavor is delicious, and mixed in there with the fruit. After an hour or two the wine became tinged with charcoal, black pepper and olive tapenade. Over time I started tasting fresh currant along with beef broth and a distinct sage flavor. It’s got enough acid to keep it fresh, but it seems to me that the acid is a bit lower than some of the more recent vintages. The tannins come back out on the finish, providing solid structure as it lingers.

I don’t really believe in a specific “peak” time to drink a wine, but this wine seems to be in a very harmonious place right now. It has at least three to five more years of development ahead of it, and I’m really curious how those sausage and charcoal flavors are going to mature. Right now, I'd go 92 points.

Overall, this was a great display of Mendocino syrah from one of my favorite producers. I've got a 2004 and 2005 of the same wine, but I think I'll let them sleep for a few more years, if I can keep my hands off of them. 

Cheers!

Copain: Visiting a California Wine Favorite

I've been a fan of Copain wines for a long time. Most of my experience has been with their single-vineyard syrahs  from older vintages between 2003 and 2007. On a recent trip to Sonoma, California, I visited the Copain winery for the first time and got to try some of their new releases. I'm happy to report that they're as good if not better than the older wines I've had. Copain carefully crafts its wines from fruit grown in distinct vineyards all over California. All but one of the wines I tasted come from Mendocino County, a huge, rustic region north of Sonoma. Mendocino's Anderson Valley has long been one of my favorite growing regions in California, and the three Anderson Valley wines tasted here demonstrate why.

The Copain Winery in Sonoma offers a range of distinct
pinot noirs and syrahs, not to mention great views.

Copain's wines have a lively, fresh style, while displaying focused fruit flavors and notes of mineral and earth. Not your average California fruit juice. The staff at the winery was really helpful, informative and down-to-earth, giving out generous pours. It was a sunny day in Sonoma and the experience couldn't have been better. I tasted the wines with my girlfriend, my brother and his wife, and everyone really enjoyed this style of wine and the visit in general. This place is high on my list of top spots for Sonoma wine tourists.

2010 Copain Chardonnay Tous Ensemble - Anderson Valley

This chardonnay sees no new oak, and it undergoes limited maloactic fermentation, making for a fresh but fruit-forward chardonnay with a unique character. Aromas of fresh pineapple, pear and a distinct mineral aroma. The palate is creamy to start, then the acid kicks in. What a lovely white peach flavor, backed up with a dose of lemon and minerals. Long finish with lingering acid. Copain does a great job with reds, so I was thrilled to try this. It didn't disappoint. I look forward to some more Copain chardonnays in the future. (90 pts.)

2009 Copain Pinot Noir Les Voisins - Anderson Valley

Wow, what a beautiful pinot noir. Gorgeous strawberry color in the glass. The nose is soft and seductive, showing cherry, cranberry and a hint of pepper. Fresh and medium-bodied on the palate with medium acid. The flavors cascade over the palate like liquid silk. I love the cranberry, licorice and underbrush flavors. Fine-grained tannins with a sexy finish, showing just a kiss of toast. This pinot has a lot of complexity that will surely evolve for at least a few years. I brought some home, so I'm looking forward to revisiting a bottle in a year or two. (92 pts.)

2009 Copain Pinot Noir Wentzel Vineyard - Anderson Valley

This wine is so seductive, it's hard not to gush over. Bright, pure black cherry color in the glass. The nose is a medley of flowers, rose hips, roasted plums and just a hint of meat. The palate shows a firm structure, more so than the 2009 Les Voisons pinot noir. It's definitely got some grip to it. Flavors of black cherry, smoke and a bit of coffee. Acid keeps it balanced, but it's clear that this wine needs some time in the bottle or at least in the decanter to show its true stuff. Caramel on the finish. Pure and lovely, and it will only get better with a few years. I don't need a reminder why I love Anderson Valley pinot, but I got one anyway. (93 pts.)

2009 Copain Syrah Les Voisins - Yorkville Highlands

Gorgeous dark purple in the glass. Dark and rich aromas of plums, cocoa powder and a bit of crushed rock. The palate shows restraint, with plush tannins and flavors of black cherry, currant and just a hint of vanilla and white pepper. The best way to describe this wine is purity. Creamy finish with a hint of subtle oak. I'd love to revisit this in three or five years. (91 pts.)

2007 Copain Syrah Thompson Vineyard - Santa Barbara County

This syrah is sourced from much further south in Santa Barbara. I liked this syrah, but it seemed a bit too big for its britches. Dark purple in the glass. Aromas of boysenberry, blueberry and creamy milk chocolate. The palate is plummy and dark as hell, with brooding blue fruit and dense tannins. It's delicious, but this reminds me why my palate has shifted to North Coast syrah over the past few years. That said, if you're a fan of brawny, fruity syrah, this won't let you down. (89 pts.)

2003 Meyer Family Syrah (Mendocino)

2003 Meyer Family Syrah (USA, California, Mendocino County)

I bought this wine because I love Mendocino syrah, and my girflriend's last name is Meyer. I thought it would be a fun wine to drink, but I was surprised by it's overall quality. At nine years old, this wine is still a vibrant, clear purple color in the glass. The nose shows bright cherries, fresh herbs and milk chocolate. What a wondrous nose. The palate starts off with root beer float and cherry coke flavors, matched with grainy tannins that feel almost like dark coffee. The finish is smooth and creamy, accented with mocha. The flavors in this wine were pure and vibrant. A serious crowd-pleaser. 

89+ pts IJB

A Terroir-Driven Mendocino Syrah

2004 Bink Wines Syrah Hawks Butte Vineyard

Yup, another Mendocino County syrah. I can't get enough of them. Considering the silly name and the purple label with the cat on it, you might think this is a cheap-ass critter wine. No way. This wine comes from a really interesting area of Mendocino called the Yorkville Highlands. I've driven through there a couple of times on my way from the inland Potter Valley to the Mendocino coast, and it is a remarkably beautiful region full of hills, rocks and redwoods. This vineyard, Hawks Butte, is a rocky slope located  35 miles inland from the coast at an elevation of 1,200 feet.  The warm days, cool nights and high elevation can produce syrahs that are as elegant as they are powerful.

This wine is an earthy purple color in the glass with just a bit of cloudiness. The aromas start off with dark berries, dried leaves and a distinct note of red meat. With air, the wine develops a lovely crushed red cherry aroma, but that meatiness continues throughout. On the palate, the tannins have smoothed out with eight years of age, but still provide structure. Medium acid and juicy fruit combine with a hint of mocha .

I like this wine at this point in its evolution, even though most of these were probably consumed within a few years of release. The fruit has softened and some secondary flavors have developed that are really delicious: dried cranberries, leather, and just a hint of green olive and radish. Toast accents the finish, but doesn't overwhelm the palate by any means. I believe this wine only saw a little bit of oak, which is nice because it lets the purity of flavors show through.

This Hawkes Butte syrah is clearly California, but it takes inspiration from the syrah of the Northern Rhone Valley. In my opinion it does a good job of demonstrating the terroir of Hawks Butte Vineyard syrah.

90 pts IJB

Adieu to a Wine Buddy

My friend Matt (aka Tooch) and I have been tasting wine together since 2008. We've thrown dozens of tastings and shared hundreds of bottles. It's fair to say that most of the best wines I've had over the past three years have been tasted with Matt. Along with several others, he's been at the core of an unofficial wine tasting gang. (Hazing consists of tasting through 10 fruit bomb syrahs in half an hour.)

Since he's leaving DC and moving across the country, a small group of friends got together for one last wine hoorah. We started off at our adopted home of Weygandt Wines and moved to Ripple, a relatively new restaurant in DC's Cleveland Park neighborhood. The food was unique, tasty and masterfully prepared, as usual. However, it was the wines that stood out.

It's been interesting to see how our palates have changed over time, and how they've stayed the same. I have always loved syrahs from the Northern Rhone, and we tasted two spectacular ones at Matt's goodbye tasting. Over the past year, I've gone from a lover of German riesling to an addict. I tend toward rieslings from the Mosel Valley, while I think it's fair to say that Matt enjoys wines from the nearby Nahe region more, or at least more frequently. This tasting included a great riesling from quintessential Nahe producer Dönnhoff as well.

Well, enough of an intro. Let's get down to the wines.

Cheers, Matt, and I hope to see you back in DC soon for even more great wine.

Pre-Game Wines

We started off the evening at Weygandt Wines with two whites and a red.

• 2006 Recaredo Cava Gran Reserva Brut Nature - Spain, Cava
  This was the first vintage-dated Cava I've ever had. In fact, I had never seen one before. It showed a lot of biscuity aromas, along with lemons, pistachios and a hint of balsamic as well. It has a tangy palate with razor-like acid, but it's still quite full. Lots of lime, chalk and a flavor that reminds me of a green olive. Long finish. The bubbles dissipated quite quickly, but it was still a solid Cava. (88 pts.)
• 2006 Clos Roche Blanche Touraine Sauvignon No. 2 - France, Loire Valley, Touraine
  This is one of the most unique sauvignon blancs I've had in a very long time. The aromas are really fantastic. It started off with floral and honeysuckle aromas, and opened up to show banana peel, lamp oil and an aroma that reminded me of soil with lots of rocks. The palate has some weight to it, with pulpy white peach fruit, and medium+ acid. I really enjoyed the complexity and balance of this wine. It has a synthetic cork, which is a shame because I'm curious what this would taste like if it had a few more years on it. (89 pts.)
• 2009 Domaine Guion Bourgueil Cuvée Prestige - France, Loire Valley, Bourgueil
  I didn't know the price point when I tasted this wine, but I would've guessed about $40. I was amazed to hear it was less than $15 a bottle. This is a very serious cabernet franc that offers the depth and complexity of a wine three times the price. Wonderful aromas of sweet blackberries, tobacco, leaves and dense loam. The tannins are fine and almost feel leathery on the palate. The red plum fruit, smoke, beef brisket and green olive flavors glide over the palate. This wine is big, and could improve for years. This wine is a candidate for 2011 Value of the Year. (90 pts.)

Whites with Dinner

What an interesting bunch of chardonnays. This was my first time tasting a Marcassin chardonnay, and it was quite an experience. This being a tasting in Tooch's honor, we had to have a Dönnhoff Riesling Großes Gewächs thrown in, of course.

• 2008 Jean Collet Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre - France, Burgundy, Chablis 1er Cru
  I liked this wine a lot, even though it is somewhat of an anomoly as a 2008 Chablis. The aromas are really explosive, with white peach, mixed nuts and circus peanut candy. The palate is plump and bold. The main flavor reminds me of bruised yellow apples, although chalk and honeysuckle are there throughout. Acid lingers on the finish. I never would've guessed this as a 2008 Chablis, but it was very nice. (89 pts.)

• 2004 Marcassin Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard - California, Sonoma Coast
  This wine was met with mixed enthusiasm by the tasting team. Thoughts about this wine are usually prefaced with: "This isn't really my style of chardonnay, but..." Yes, this chardonnay demands attention. It stands up and grabs your palate and takes it for a crazy ride. The wine is very cloudy in the glass. The aromas changed with air, and each time I smelled this wine I detected another aroma. All sorts of aromas: lemon custard, roasted peanuts, smoke, almond biscotti. Big and bold are words too weak for this wine. Flavors of pineapple upside-down cake, apricot, lemons, buttercups, etc., etc. It's extreme on the palate, but by no means overoaked. A sweet vanilla flavor lingers underneath, but it's equally matched by a dose of chalky minerals. The oily, buttery mouthfeel, combined with the acid, makes this a really intense experience. It's not white Burgundy, but it's a treat. (94 pts.)
• 2009 Crowley Chardonnay - Oregon, Willamette Valley
  I found this wine to be very balanced. Aromas of banana peel, pear butter and honey. The palate shows creamy fruit, highlighted by just a bit of oak. The green apple flavors and the acid keep it in line. This is a very drinkable chardonnay with all the elements in the right place. (90 pts.)
• 2009 Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Großes Gewächs - Germany, Nahe
  I tasted this wine earlier in 2011 and loved it, and it showed even better at this tasting. The aromas are intoxicating: white peaches, whipped honey, lemon-lime and slate. The palate is absolutely delicious, showing plump orchard fruit, apricot and pineapple. The acid and minerals are really high, but the wine maintains a beautiful sense of balance. It's intense, yet so easy to sip. I know Dönnhoff GGs can age, and this surely has a lot of flavors to unravel over time, but it's incredible right now. (93 pts.)

Pierre Gonon St. Joseph

It was a treat to taste two Gonon syrahs with twenty years of age difference between them. Both were fantastic, but I gave the edge to the 1989. While the 2009 was great, it seems time does wonderful things to Gonon's wine.

• 1989 Pierre Gonon St. Joseph Les Oliviers - France, Rhône, St. Joseph
  With twenty years of age, this wine showed very strongly. Mature, sexy aromas of red plums, violets, beef bouillon and charcoal. With air, the wine opened up to show herbal (thyme) and bacon notes. The wine glides over the palate with soft tannins. It's meaty, with cranberry, charcoal and thyme flavors. The acid and rhubarb flavor combine to give this wine a sappy mouthfeel. A distinct note of mint leaf on the finish. What a complex wine, and a great way to bid adieu to an old wine tasting buddy. (93 pts.)

• 2009 Pierre Gonon St. Joseph - France, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph
  It was fun to taste this wine after tasting a 1989 from the same producer. This baby is packed tight, but it's showing serious promise. The aromas are powerful and bold: beef jerky, charcoal and an aroma that reminds me of cow hide. The palate is dense with gritty tannins and plump black fruit. Secondary flavors of pepper, coffee and beef are already present, but will surely unwind with some age. Lovely coffee note on the finish. I love what Pierre Gonon does with syrah, and tasting both of these wines made me realize I need to keep some Gonons in the cellar. (92 pts.)

Three Big Reds

These wines were very impressive, and went very well with my steak dinner.

• 2005 Celler Vall Llach Priorat IDUS - Spain, Priorat
  This is a big, boastful blend of carignan, merlot, grenache, cabernet sauvignon and syrah. The nose is a burst of liquer, black licorice and chocolate-covered berries. The palate is full of ripe fruit, but the tannins and acid come in to save it from being flabby or offensive. Nice black cherry and mocha on the finish. (90 pts.)
• 2004 Copain Syrah Broken Leg Vineyard - California, Anderson Valley
  I've been drinking a lot of older Copain, with much success, and this was no exception. That said, I do think it's in a bit of a strange stage right now, and could probably benefit from another few years in the bottle. Aromas of plum, charcoal and hints of black olive. The palate has gritty tannins, fresh acid, ripe purple fruit, charcoal notes and a long finish. It's good, but I feel like it's still wound up and needs some more time to show its full potential. (91 pts.)
• 2008 Cayuse Grenache God Only Knows - Washington, Walla Walla Valley
  Aromas of wild strawberries, red plums and hint of bacon. It's big and juicy on the palate with fresh plums and blackberry extract. This is just plain delicious. It doens't have much in the way of complexity (maybe it needs time?), but it is way up there on the yummy scale. (90 pts.)

A Chorus of Mendocino County Wines

My brother Zeke and his wife Bekah have been on a cross-country road trip from California to the East Coast by way of Utah, Chicago, Detroit and Ohio. After a weekend at Belmar Beach, the New Jersey town my brother and I grew up in, we came down to DC for a wine party I organized. The theme: "Mostly Mendocino."

It was the wedding of Zeke and Bekah that first brought me to Mendocino County, California. Since then, I've fallen in love with the region. I've toured many vineyards and tasting rooms: Breggo, Parducci, Roederer Estate, Nelson Family, Tahto, McFadden,Yorkville Cellars. I hiked through vineyards in Potter Valley and helped the maker of Tahto wines crush his chardonnay. I explored the redwoods and the rugged coast. Mendocino County is an enchanting place, and many wine producers seem capable of bottling that enchantment. So, I figured, since my family was in town, I'd open some Mendocino County wines. I was surrounded by great people and great wines, so it was obviously quite a night.

2007 Syrahs

I had two 2007 syrahs from Mendocino, both from producers I know, visited and loved. I figured it would be fun to open them together. These wines were drained quickly.

• 2007 Parducci Syrah - Mendocino County
  this was the first wine of the evening, and the crowd loved it. it smells like earth and bright red fruit. the palate is fresh and lively, with plum and spicy red fruit. candy apple red and licorice on the finish. zeke and bekah really liked this wine. i love parducci wines, and this is a great bargain at $20 (89 pts.)
• 2007 Breggo Cellars Syrah - Anderson Valley
  this wine showed really well and was a great contrast with the 2007 parducci syrah. aromas of spiced clove, bacon and plum sauce. the palate has great acid and smoothness. wonderful balance. delicious plum flavors and some earth on the finish. (90 pts.)

Coros

Coro means chorus in Italian and Spanish. The term sums up the idea behind this collective group of wines: producers working together with common goals and grapes to make delicious wines, each with its own distinctiveness. Coro is kind of like a winemaking club. If you make an amazing wine with zinfandel, syrah, grenache and a few other grapes, and you submit it to this organization, you just might be able to label a bottle of your wine "Coro." The labels are striking similar, even from different producers and vintages. I love zinfandel and Rhone varietals like syrah and grenache. These wines were all very different, but all intriguing in their own right. They paired wonderfully with a wide array of creamy cow cheeses, although, to be honest, the Parducci Coros would have gone well with chocolate or dates and nuts.

• 2005 Parducci Coro Mendocino - Ukiah Valley
  the first coro of the evening impressed a lot of people. the nose is gorgeous: dates, port, prunes and raisins. the palate is absolutely gushing with fruit. it's like chocolate pie and raspberry tart. smooth finish. this is a really fruit-forward, unashamed wine. it is what it is, but this hit the spot. 60% zinfandel, 25% syrah and 15% petite sirah. (89 pts.)
• 2006 Parducci Coro Mendocino - Ukiah Valley
  the 2006 coro was much different than the 2005. the nose showed raspberries, plum cake and cinnamon disk candies. this is bright and tangy on the palate. shows great smoothness. the 2006 is made up of 55% zinfandel, 20% syrah, 15% petite sirah, and 10% grenache. (88 pts.)
• 2007 Guinness McFadden Coro Mendocino - Mendocino County
  the 2007 guinness mcfadden coro was also very different. lots of vanilla on the nose, along with a medley of fresh red and black fruit. fresh and silky on the palate. smooth and lucious with bold fruit. the acid and solid tannic structure in this wine keeps it balanced. very impressive effort. thanks, zeke and bekah, for bringing this great bottle. 60% zinfandel, 27% syrah, 13% petite sirah. (91 pts.)

Three California Reds

Well, we didn't just stick to Mendocino. I've been a fan of the Sonoma Coast and Paso Robles, and this flight showcased three solid wines.

• 2007 A.P. Vin Pinot Noir Kanzler Vineyard - Sonoma Coast 

  

  

  Three Bakers: Zeke (left), me, and Priscilla (right)

  
  i had this in 2009, but this wine has softened down since then. the nose is absolutely intoxicating with its ripe, gushing fruit. it's a bit candied, but i still enjoy it. zeke, bekah, me and a whole lot of others really loved this wine. (90 pts.)
• 2007 Tahto Petite Sirah Limited Production Reserve - Potter Valley
  this bottle was another one of zeke's contributions to the tasting. the nose is inky and dark. i love the boldness of this wine, its dark fruit, and the meaty note on the finish. (90 pts.)
• 2009 J. Lohr Cabernet Sauvignon Seven Oaks - Paso Robles
  this wine wasn't from mendocino, but we threw it into the tasting. this wine is always a solid, fruity cabernet. smooth tannins and some toasty oak. never great, but always crowd-pleasing. (85 pts.)

A Great Syrah from a Lesser-Known California Region

2007 Tahto Syrah (USA, California, North Coast, Potter Valley)

The first time I tasted this syrah was from the barrel at a small winery in Potter Valley, California in 2009. I loved it then, and I've loved each of the ten bottles I've opened over the past year. This, by far, was the best showing yet. It has developed complexity and integration but remains fresh and lively.

I brought this bottle to the last night of my fiction seminar at Johns Hopkins University, and it was a joy to sip while discussing writing. Tasting notes: 5/2/2011 - rated 90 points - best bottle yet! the nose shows plums, cherries and meat drippings. still solid tannins, but they've relaxed a bit, and the fruit has softened. sweet cherries, black pepper, charcoal, just like previous bottles, but i get more of a beef jerky and tomato flavor now, especially on the finish. violets and roasted meat come out on the finish and linger. this reminds me of a really good northern rhone syrah, and that meaty violet aspect reminds me of an aged st. joseph. only one more bottle left. damn!

If you haven't heard of Pottery Valley, you're not alone. I may never have bought a Potter Valley syrah if my brother hadn't gotten married there. Not only is the area pristine and gorgeous, it's a wine region that is primed to really take off in the next decade. Mark my words. You've heard it here first. Actually, I've been saying extoling Potter Valley for two years now. But I still maintain that it is a great place for syrah, especially in the hands of a talented winemaker like Wayne Bauer, who hand-crafted this wine in miniscule quantities. He chose the fruit from a variety of sites around the valley, and it's obvious that Wayne knows good fruit when he sees, smells and tastes it. I don't think Tahto has distribution outside of a few areas in California, but I sure hope some importer out there gives Wayne some respect and buys up a future vintage of Tahto's Potter Valley syrah. This wine deserves some space on wine lists.

2004 Copain Syrah Hawks Butte Vineyard (USA, California, North Coast, Yorkville Highlands)

It's Sunday night. I just got back from a great trip to New Orleans and had to do some homework. So I figured I'd pop a bottle of wine to sip while I work. Unfortunately, this wine was so good it was hard to focus on my writing. This wine is fantastic, and an amazing expression of the syrah grape.

2004 Copain Syrah Hawks Butte Vineyard (USA, California, North Coast, Yorkville Highlands)
rich purple color but not quite opaque. soothing, inviting aromas of warm blackberry, clove, freshly cracked black pepper and bacon. the palate is bold and demands attention. the tannins still retain their grip. the acid is perfectly in balance with the tannins. the fruit is pure and lush in its mouthfeel and pure in its focus. blackberries, cassis and plum skins are backed up by vanilla, chocolate and a rush of minerality. there's almost a rocky flavor on the finish of this syrah, along with the vanilla. it's fruit forward, but by no means flabby or overdone. with time, the complexity of this wine increased tremendously. showing red currants, chocolate shavings, iron, slate and earth. it doesn't have any of that northern rhone inspired meat or olive. it's not that kind of wine. but it is a complex, fruit-forward syrah, one that is a gorgeous experience from start to finish. the yorkville highlands' expression of syrah can be incredible, especially when in the hands of a producer like copain. great stuff, will continue to evolve in complexity for three-five years?

93 pts IJB