Isaac James Baker writer, wildlife photographer, climber, hiker, surfer, and all-around fan of wild places and experiences.
Sunday, November 20, 2022
American Wines from Coast to Coast
I haven’t (yet) made a wine trip to Long Island’s North Fork – but that’s long overdue. I’m a long-time East Coast wine fan, and it’s been awesome to see the growth in regions like Virginia, Maryland, and others since I started paying attention about 15 years ago. Recently, I received a six-pack of wines from Long Island’s North Fork that made me think: I’ve gotta get out there already!
And speaking of Virginia: Early Mountain. I love this place and their wines – just such reliably exciting, delicious, honest Virginia expressions. Their Petit Manseng rocks, and is worth checking out if you don’t have much experience with this grape and worth checking out even more if you do. Their reds offer a lot of juicy, spicy, Virginia goodness as well. And the value in here is really something. Very much worth a visit if you’re ever passing through the region.
Troon shouldn’t be a new name to long-time readers, as I’ve been stoked on this Oregon producer’s wines for years. This biodynamic outfit from Southern Oregon’s Applegate Valley is always experimenting with exciting blends and styles. But two of their classic reds in this report make for great cold weather sipping.
And, of course, California is represented here. FEL delivers again with two delightful Savoy Vineyard wines from Anderson Valley that are a great choice for Pinot and Chard-lovers.
These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
2020 FEL Chardonnay Savoy Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $52
Medium yellow color. A deep but lively aromatic blend of yellow apples, tart lemons, with nougat and almond, cinnamon crumb cake, and notes of ginger and chalk dust, too. The palate shows crisp acidity and a creamy mouthfeel, with flavors of lemon bars and yellow apples and pears. The complexities in here are exceptional: almond cake, honey, yellow flowers, cinnamon, shaved ginger, with an underlying mineral essence. Gorgeous depth and texture, this should age wonderfully. 13.8% alcohol, this wine is aged 16 months on the lees in 35% new oak. (93 points)
2020 FEL Pinot Noir Savoy Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $75
Vibrant cherry color. The nose is lovely, with these waves of tangy raspberries, strawberries, with rose petals, clay pot, tobacco, earthy-savory tones, too – there’s a lot to unpack in here. Warm and smooth on the palate with structured tannins and vibrant acidity. Red cherries, tangy strawberries, juicy raspberries, the fruit is laced with tones of floral perfume, pepper, clove, clay and potting soil elements. Suave, silky, crisp, this is ready to drink but will open up nicely over the coming years. 13.9% alcohol, aged 16 months in 24% new French oak. (93 points)
N.V. Sparkling Pointe Brut Nature - USA, New York, Long Island, North Fork
SRP: $42
Light gold color. I like the chalky, salty, flinty aromas (really catches the oceanic vibes of Long Island) with some honey and yellow flowers, and lemon and green apple fruit. Juicy yellow apple and lime fruit on the palate, supported with brisk acidity and some nuanced baguette tones. Chalky, spritely and dry, with fresh cut floral stems, dandelion and some spiced white tea. Fun, fresh, delicious blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier from this prolific sparkling wine producer. (88 points)
2020 Peconic Bay Vineyards Riesling - USA, New York, Long Island, North Fork
SRP: $28
Bright yellow color. Lovely aromatic display here, with an infusion of juicy peaches and limes, chalk dust and saline, sugar cane, and fresh new tennis balls (in a good way!). Racy acidity frames the palate nicely, balanced sugar throughout, with big chunks of fresh pineapples, drizzled with lime. The chalk dust, crushed sea shells and minerals linger long on the finish. Racy, refreshing and tasty. (90 points)
2021 Lieb Cellars Sauvignon Blanc Bridge Lane - USA, New York, Long Island, North Fork
SRP: $16
Medium straw color. Bright and floral on the nose, with tangy limes and juicy white peaches, topped in white flowers, mint and celery seed tones. Zippy, crisp and floral on the nose, with some pleasant creaminess and flavors of white peaches, pineapple and limes. Flinty, chalky tones, with a creamy but vibrant finish. Fun, fresh, a lot of personality for the price here. Really solid value. (87 points)
2021 Macari Vineyards Horses - USA, New York, Long Island, North Fork
SRP: $29
Bright fizzy raspberry color. Spritely and tangy on the palate, with crunchy red apples, wild raspberries, with notes of white pepper, rose hips and bay leaf. Dusty texture, very zesty, this has a crunchy feel with tangy red apples and cranberry fruit. Fun and fresh with some cool spicy, herbal tones. A fun accompaniment to a wide variety of foods for sure. A crown cap Cabernet Franc sparkler, destemmed, it spends two days on the skins and is disgorged after five months. (88 points)
2019 Pellegrini Vineyards Chardonnay Stainless Steel - USA, New York, Long Island, North Fork
SRP: $23
Pale lemon color. A tangy and brisk style on the nose with lemons and green apples, lemon verbena, seashells, some dandelion and daisy tones. Floral and tangy on the palate with citrus and green apple fruits on a crunchy, vibrant frame. Flinty, oceanic goodness abounds in this seafood-friendly style Chardonnay. (88 points)
2019 Baiting Hollow Farm Vineyard Pink Satin - USA, New York, Long Island, North Fork
SRP: $34
Pale salmon color. Nose pops with white cherries and strawberries, along with notes of honeysuckle, mint and orange blossom. Crisp acidity, moderate but balanced sugar adds some creaminess and sweetness, but it stays refreshing. Notes of tangy strawberries and juicy cherries, with some nice tea, white pepper and floral perfume tones. A nice salty kick on the finish as well. Melot, Cab Franc and Cab Sauv. (86 points)
2020 Troon Vineyard Syrah - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $40
Dark purple color. The nose kicks off with a great burst of smoky, beefy, peppery goodness, with roasted red pepper and mesquite, grille steak, over tangy blueberries and black cherry fruit. The palate shows nice grip with smooth tannic edges and delightfully fresh acidity and tangy plums, blueberries and black cherry fruit. The complex notes of roasted red pepper, soy, glazed mushrooms, gravelly earth and clove. Age-worthy but fresh, this has a lot of deliciousness and savory goodness packed in here, especially for the price. (92 points)
2020 Troon Vineyard Tannat - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $50
Deep purple color. The nose of tart black currants and blackberries is great, laced with complexities of smashed rocks, anise, tar, pencil shavings, dried violet petals. The palate is grippy but suave with tangy acidity and a nice core of tar blueberries and currants. Elements of smoky earth, charcoal, anise, coffee grounds and violets add complexity. The notes of savory broth and mushroom need years to unravel, and this will age gloriously for quite some time. Deep, tangy, balanced, spicy – a ton to love. (92 points)
2020 Early Mountain Vineyards Petit Manseng - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Madison County
SRP: $30
Rich gold color. The nose bursts with personality, showing deep apricot, orange marmalade, candied lemon peel, with notes of honey, graham cracker, white flowers, mint leaves and some salty tones. The palate shows classic Petit Manseng vibes with racy acidity, lip-smacking goodness, and rich, waxy texture, and the balance is just lovely. Nuanced throughout, with a complex mix of honey, hay, almond, yellow flowers. Exciting, delicious stuff that I’d love to taste in three to five years. Includes 4% Pinot Gris and 3% Chardonnay. (90 points)
2021 Early Mountain Vineyards Cabernet Franc Shenandoah Valley - USA, Virginia, Shenandoah Valley
SRP: $30
Medium ruby color. Loving the spicy aromatic kick here, with rose hips, black and white pepper, forest floor, along with a display of fresh raspberries, red apple and black cherry fruit. The palate is so fresh but deeply textured, with dusty tannins and a bright core of black cherries and wild raspberries. Lovely earthy tones, red clay, and notes of sage, white pepper, some black olive. Delightfully fresh appeal but a lot of complexity and depth as well. This should age nicely for a few years. If you haven’t tried Shenandoah Cab Franc, this is a great intro and value. (91 points)
2021 Early Mountain Vineyards Foothills - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Madison County
SRP: $27
Deep ruby color. Inviting and juicy on the nose, with raspberries, red plums, topped in hefty amounts of roses, pepper, violets, leather and clove. The palate is silky and zippy with tangy red and black cherry fruit, juicy strawberries, the fruit is just delish. Notes of sage, rose petals, mint, spiced tea, it adds a lovely autumnal complexity. So darn fun. A fascinating blend of 28% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Petit Verdot, 8% Tanat, 8% Petit Manseng and 5% Cabernet Franc. (90 points)
Monday, June 28, 2021
Black Kite Cellars' Exciting Chardonnays and Pinots

Anderson Valley Pinot Noir likely needs no introduction here. This Mendocino appellation is packed with well-known vineyards and producers, making quite a wide array of styles.
Among them, Black Kite Cellars has an impressive portfolio. Kicked off in 2003, Black Kite Cellars is the product of Rebecca and Tom Birdsall, and co-founded by Rebecca’s parents, Donald and Maureen Green. They bought the site that would become Kite’s Rest in 1995, and it was replanted to Pinot Noir in 1999. Divided into several blocks, the 40-acre parcel rises up from the Navarro River (River Turn), through gravelly loam (Stony Terrace), and up to the edge of the forest (Redwood’s Edge). The wines are made by Jeff Gaffner, formerly of Arrowood, who also has his own label, Saxon Brown.
They produce five different Pinot Noirs from their estate Kite’s Rest vineyard (their “home” Pinots), in addition to some “away” Pinot Noirs from other sites. The Pinot Noirs offers a great look into the differences between these sites. And their Chardonnays, sourced from some epic Sonoma sites, are delightful. Two are featured today.
These wines were received as trade samples and tasted single-blind.
Saturday, April 25, 2020
Black Kite Delivers Delicious California Pinot & Chardonnay
Friday, January 10, 2020
Blind-Tasting some California Pinot Noirs
I’m back to start off the new year with a bunch of California Pinot Noirs. In the fall, I started receiving a lot of California Pinots and Chardonnays. I don’t often get to do comparative blind tastings, so I was excited to collect them and taste through them. (The Chardonnay report can be found here.)
This is a nice mix of inexpensive, widely-available brands, with some single-vineyard, smaller production stuff.
J Vineyards’ Sonoma Pinots provide wines that deliver a great classic cherry and cola goodness that I’ve grown to love.
The Maggy Hawk wines are all really exciting, and stood out with their finesse and elegance. These wines are made by Pinot Noir veteran winemaker Tony Rynders, and all sourced from the same vineyard. Each of the four wines, however, is a blend of different blocks and clones. These are really interesting wines that I’d recommend seeking out if you like Anderson Valley Pinot.
The full report is below. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted single blind.
2018 Lucky Rock Wine Co. Pinot Noir - California
SRP: $22
Nose pops with sweet cherries, strawberry jam, along with rhubarb, rose petals and cola. Light and smooth tannins on the palate, there’s a nice streak of acid that makes this refreshing to drink. Tangy cherries, sweet raspberries and strawberries, this is a fun and accessible wine with notes of rhubarb, cola, toffee. There are these cool earthy and cinnamon stick notes. Fun, fresh, delightful style, solid value. A mix of fruit from Monterey, San Benito and Sonoma Counties, aged nine months in 10% new French oak. (87 points)
2017 The Paring Pinot Noir - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $25
Aromas show black cherries, dark plums, raspberries, with these notes of warm black tea, clove, rose potpourri, some coconut and coffee. Wow, this has a lot of freshness on the palate, medium-bodied frame, smooth tannins, this is a fruit-forward but fresh Pinot. Plums, black cherries, saucy raspberries, the fruit is rich but vibrant. Coffee, vanilla and coconut shavings mix with tilled soil, black tea and rose petals, some mineral, rocky tones. This is fun stuff for near-term drinking, but it shows a lot of complexity (and value), too. For a wine at this price point, this style is rare. (89 points)
2016 Talbott Pinot Noir Sleepy Hollow Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
SRP: $50
Smells like fresh cranberries, strawberries, strawberries, red apple peel, with rhubarb, white pepper, black tea notes. Medium/full-bodied, smooth tannins, medium acidity, balanced nicely. A core of raspberries and spiced cranberry jam, the fruit is bold and ripe but pretty, too. Nuanced notes of rose petals, rhubarb, white pepper and bay leaf. Cola and roasted chestnut elements mix well with the savory, floral tones. Quite complex, very delicious, open for business now but this could hold for a few years. (90 points)
2017 Steele Wines Pinot Noir Writer's Block - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $18
Aromas of spicy strawberries and raspberries, with pepper, cola, rose hips, leather and earth. Medium-bodied with silky tannins and a fresh, zippy appeal. Sweet cherries and raspberry jam mixes well with nuanced notes of cola, pepper, roses, bay leaf. Has a lot of fun spice and herbal tones to accent the fruit. Ready to drink, but a lot going on. Aged 12 months in 10% new French oak. (89 points)
2018 Clos Pegase Pinot Noir Mitsuko's Vineyard - California, Napa, Carneros
SRP: $40
Nose shows pretty red cherries, chilled strawberries and raspberries, with rose potpourri, pepper, sage, slight cola note. Brisk and mouthwatering acidity, this holds its full body well, with smooth tannins, lovely balance. Cool cherries, raspberries and red apple fruit. Complex notes of bay leaf, rose petal, sage and pepper, all of which add a vibrant, floral and earth sense to accent the red fruits. Delicious stuff, ready to go. Aged nine months in 30% new French oak. (90 points)
2017 Maggy Hawk Pinot Noir Jolie - California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $65
Deep cherry and raspberry aromas, with a complex blend of rose petals, tobacco leaf, smoky, earthy tones, but also airy, lifted notes. Crisp acidity frames the wine nicely, medium/full-bodied, serious grip on tannins, but this is really well-balanced. Bright strawberries, raspberries and cherries, gorgeous, concentrated fruit, yet so lively. Notes of clove, cola, earth, wild herbs add complexity. I’d love to see what this does in five years. Made from their estate vineyard Block 9, aged 15 months in 45% new French oak. (93 points)
2017 Maggy Hawk Pinot Noir Unforgettable - California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $65
Gorgeous nose of cherries and strawberries, deep yet vibrant, with roses, pepper, earth, coffee. Nice grip on the palate, but rounded edges, full but balanced. Deep black cherry fruit, cranberry relish, along with complex elements of roasted chestnut, clove, warm clay, coffee. Lovely depth and concentration, but vibrancy is there, too. This could use four to five years and should improve for longer. A blend of Blocks 6 and 13 (vinified separately), aged 15 months in 43% new French oak. (92 points)
2017 Maggy Hawk Pinot Noir Stormin' - California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $65
Aromas of cranberries and cherries, and there’s a lot of spicy herbal tones, rose petals, black tea, along with warm clay and earth. Medium/full-bodied with bright acidity, and moderate grip on the tannins, but no harsh edges — this has lovely balance. Crunchy cranberries, black cherries, wild raspberries, the fruit is laced with smoky earth, pepper, paprika and rose petals. Lovely, fresh, vibrant yet structured well; this should improve with three to four years of cellaring. From Blocks 15 and 13, aged in 43% new French oak. (93 points)
2017 Maggy Hawk Pinot Noir Afleet - California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $65
Smells of wild raspberries, red cherries and cranberries, along with rose petals, menthol, mint, with spiced tea and earth. Medium/full-bodied with suave tannins and fresh acidity, this is smooth and juicy, vibrant but velvety. Cranberries, wild raspberries, strawberries, deep yet pretty fruit, laced with cola, rhubarb, earth, roasted chestnut, mint. Lots of complexity and elegance already, but I’d love to see this in two or three years. From Blocks 6, 7 and 9, aged in 27% new French oak. (92 points)
2018 Cline Cellars Pinot Noir - California, Sonoma County
SRP: $20
Aromas of fresh cherries and strawberry jam, with sweet cola, roses, spicy rhubarb, white pepper and bay leaf tones. Medium/full-bodied, soft tannins, moderate acidity, with sweet black cherries, currants, with strawberry jam. Mixed with mocha, coffee and vanilla elements. A ripe, juicy, accessible, crowd-pleasing style for early consumption. Aged five to ten months in 40% new French oak. (86 points)
2018 Pfendler Vineyards Pinot Noir - California, Sonoma County, Petaluma Gap
SRP: $55
On the nose, I get a huge (and pleasant) kick of earth and spice, like potting soil, paprika, black pepper, on top of sweet roses and suave black cherries and strawberries. Full-bodied but holds it well, chewy tannins, medium+ acidity. Smooth black cherries, raspberries and strawberries, the fruit blends well with elements of roses, tobacco, and a cool, herbal, brothy tone. Good amount of oak and vanilla, but it’s woven in well, and doesn’t dominate. Fun, yummy, but elegant stuff. Aged 14 months in 50% new French oak. (90 points)
2017 Gary Farrell Pinot Noir Russian River Selection - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $45
Aromas of juicy strawberries, raspberries, black cherries, along with violets, cola, rhubarb and coffee. Medium-bodied, velvety tannins, moderating acidity. The fruit is forward and joyful, with raspberries, strawberry jam, cherry cheesecake topping. I get notes of rhubarb, cola, mint chocolate chip. Ripe and fun, but lively and vibrant, too. Aged 10 months in 35% new French oak. (88 points)
2016 J Vineyards & Winery Pinot Noir - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $40
Aromas pop with ripe black cherries and strawberries, along with rose hips, rhubarb, clove, bold fruit but nice and spicy, too. Full but smooth on the palate with medium acidity, silky tannins, lots of cherries and strawberry preserves, tart/sweet cranberry relish. Lots of deliciousness but also a good amount of pepper, clove, black tea and tar. Nuanced cola and cedar mix in well. Aged nine months in 30% new French oak. (89 points)
SRP: $55
Smells of chilled strawberries, raspberries, red cherries and pomegranate, and a nice mix of spicy pepper, paprika, violets and cedar. Warm and inviting on the palate, slightly chewy tannins, vibrant and fresh too. Black cherries, strawberries, pomegranate, with notes of cola, spiced black tea, pepper and roses, some coffee and cedar. Rich and voluptuous, but lively, too. Aged 13 months in 35% new French oak. (91 points)
SRP: $75
Inviting and complex nose of roses, violets, tea leaves, clove, cola, on top of lots of raspberries, red cherries and cranberry. Full-bodied, smooth but structured, fresh acidity, the balance is quite nice. Juicy strawberries, chilled raspberries, pretty fruit, and I get accents of roses, tilled soil, and some underlying earth, mineral, rocky elements. Lively, spicy, tasty stuff that could improve over the next few years. Aged 14 months in 38% new French oak. (91 points)
This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.
Saturday, October 5, 2019
New California Releases: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir & Syrah
I’ve really enjoyed FEL’s take on classic Mendocino Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and their 2017s from the Savoy Vineyard are really something. They ride a clean line between being really pretty and expressive, but also and age-worthy as well.
Gary Farrell is well-known for producing Sonoma Pinot and Chard, and they offer a wide portfolio of wines. They offer solid value options but also more complex, single-vineyard wines, which, given their quality, are very reasonably priced.
Ramey and Sosie really deliver with some Sonoma Syrahs that would rock with some time in the cellar.
And a few other fun, value-driven wines round out this week’s report. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
N.V. J Vineyards & Winery Cuvée 20 - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $38/750ml
Pale gold color. Nice mix of biscuits and pie crust aromas, along with tangerine, pears and some salty, sea breeze notes. Crisp acidity frames the wine nicely, balancing the slight sugar. Pie crust, toasted bread and chalky, perfumed notes accent the tart apples and juicy orange fruit. Crowd-pleasing, pleasant, friendly stuff. 50% Chardonnay, 49% Pinot Noir, 1% Pinot Meunier, 12.5% alcohol, 1.4% residual sugar. Tasted from magnum. (88 points)
2018 Harken Chardonnay Barrel-Fermented - California
SRP: $15
Deep gold color. Juicy yellow apples, glazed pear and honey butter on the nose, with some floral and toasted nuts. Medium+ bodied, a plush and creamy texture, but moderate acidity keeps it lively. Flavors of orange marmalade, yellow apples and pears, topped in notes of cinnamon, nougat, honey, floral perfume. This sports a lot of fun and flavor, and it also has quite a bit of personality for a California Chardonnay at this price point. All barrel-fermented in American and French oak, 100% maloactic fermentation. (86 points)
2017 Gary Farrell Chardonnay Russian River Selection - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $35
Deep yellow color. Juicy and tropical aromas, peaches, pineapple, honey, almond butter and yellow flowers. Medium+ bodied with a juicy, creamy texture but vibrant acidity. Yellow apples, pineapple and mango slices, mixed with nuanced notes of honey, salted nuts, minerals and ginger. Delicious and yummy, but it shows a lot of balance and nuance for a Russian River Chardonnay at this price point. Aged nine months in 35% new French oak, 13.7% alcohol. (88 points)
2016 Gary Farrell Chardonnay Olivet Lane Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $45
Light gold year. Enticing aromas of pears, peach, yellow apples, with complex sea salt, peanut shell, hay and honeycomb. Crisp acidity frames the wine well on the palate, and there’s a pleasantly plump and juicy texture. Medium+ bodied and vibrant with creamy pear, lemon meringue and yellow apple. Notes of minerals, chalk, sea salt, and nuanced elements of almond and vanilla. Complex and harmonious, this opens up nicely and could benefit from a bit of age as well. Aged nine months in 35% new French oak, 13.4% alcohol. (91 points)
2017 FEL Chardonnay Savoy Vineyard - California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $48
Rich yellow color. The aromas boast salted almond, hazelnut, ginger and whipped honey on top of lemon curd and orange marmalade. So pretty and vibrant on the palate, the acidity leaves me salivating but there’s plenty of depth and fruit as well (lemon curd, apricot, kiwi, yellow apple). I get complex notes of whipped honey, graham cracker and peanut brittle, but also more delicate notes of crushed shells, sea salt and shaved ginger. Lovely, complex, full of flavor but really nervy and fresh with a mineral-driven finish. Very pretty stuff that should do well with a few years in the cellar. Barrel-fermented in 55% new French oak, aged 18 months. (92 points)
2017 Cherry Pie (Hundred Acre) Pinot Noir - California
SRP: $23
Medium ruby color. Sweet nose of cherry pie filling — and that’s not my reaction based on the name, it legit smells like cherry pie — along with raspberry jam, rhubarb and vanilla. Juicy and fun on the palate, this has a playful, smooth, easy-drinking appeal with medium/low acidity and light tannins. Not as candied and gloppy as I was expecting, this shows plump, sweet red fruits mixed with some spiced cranberry sauce, pepper, clove. Light-hearted fun. A blend of fruit from Monterey, Santa Barbara and Napa counties. (85 points)
2017 FEL Pinot Noir Savoy Vineyard - California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $70
Deep ruby color. A rush of fresh red fruits on the nose (strawberries, cherries, cranberry and pomegranate), along with mint, menthol, tobacco, rose petal and white pepper notes – beautiful aromas. Juicy and full on the palate but vibrant, bright acidity frames the wine well against a backdrop of structured, round-edged tannins. Black cherry, raspberry, spiced cranberry sauce, the fruit mixes with lots of earthy, minty, leafy, floral complexities. Complex and could age well for at least three to five years, but it remains fresh and so fun to drink. A ripping good Anderson Valley Pinot. (93 pints)
2016 Gary Farrell Pinot Noir Hallberg Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $55
Deep ruby color. Inviting nose of violets, rhubarb and roses on top of strawberries, raspberries and cola. On the palate, crisp acidity frames the wine nicely, this has a fresh and lively style with dusty tannins. Juicy strawberries, raspberries, spiced cranberry relish, and I get complex notes of clove, rhubarb, pepper and mint. Notes of earth and nuanced cedar and coffee round out the finish. Fresh, lively, but juicy and complex, this is lovely now but has the stuffing to improve for at least a few years. Aged 15 months in 40% new French oak. (91 points)
2015 Ramey Syrah Rodgers Creek Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Petaluma Gap
SRP: $65
Light purple. Aromas of tangy strawberries, juicy raspberries, and a spiced cranberry sauce note, along with black pepper, leather, cocoa and mint – gorgeous aromas. Velvety but structured tannins, and vibrant acidity, this Syrah has a tangy, juicy, balanced feel. A nice mix of crunchy red and saucier black fruit, all fresh and lively. Complex notes of violets, leather, pepper, nuanced notes of coffee and vanilla bean. I’d love to see what this does in five years. Native yeast fermentation, this exquisite Syrah was co-fermented with 8% Viognier, aged 25 months in 93% new French oak. (93 points)
2016 Sosie Syrah Vivio Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Bennett Valley
SRP: $38
Deep purple color. Smoky nose with beefy, meaty, leathery, mesquite notes on top of saucy black cherries and blueberries. Full but fresh on the palate with solid tannic grip, but rounded edges and vibrant, moderating acidity. Tangy black cherries and plums balances well with a lot of interesting flavors: mesquite, menthol, brisket, leather, violets, incense. Complex but straight-up delicious, too. This evolves nicely with air but would benefit rom a few years. When sniffing and sipping, this is one of those Syrahs I can just tell comes from a special place. Co-fermented with 7% Roussanne, aged 20 months in 50% new oak. (92 points)
This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.
Monday, August 19, 2019
Wine Reviews: California Reds
I’ve long been a fan of Adam Lee’s Siduri Pinot Noirs. It was purchased by Jackson Family a few years ago, but based on this and other tastings, I’ve found the aesthetic seems to be staying quite similar to what drew me to these wines in the first place. And while it’s Sonoma fruit Siduri is known best for, Adam Lee’s first wine was actually produced from Anderson Valley fruit, and it’s really cool to see the wines come full-circle and show so well.
Napa’s Frank Family comes through with a Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon that bring a lot of personality for wines in their respective price ranges. And Louis Martini’s Sonoma and Napa Cabernets show themselves as accessible, fun but also “serious” wines that offer lots of value.
These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
2017 Cline Cellars Carignane Ancient Vines - California, San Francisco Bay, Contra Costa County
SRP: $23
Deep purple color. Aromas of sweet plums, black cherries (warm, mulled fruit) with cocoa, cola and sweet black pepper glaze. Full but fresh with suave tannins and medium acidity. Roasted plums and black cherries, the fruit is warm and rich, backed up with notes of spicy pepper, leather, coffee and charcoal grill. Fun, yummy, a solid choice to pair with pretty much anything that’s been grilled. All Carignane aged 12 months in French oak (35% new). (87 points)
2017 Siduri Pinot Noir Anderson Valley - California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $40
Deep ruby color. Bright and juicy nose of raspberries, red currants, cranberry sauce, with lots of roses, violets, rhubarb and wild herbs. Plum and juicy texture but lively acidity, with dusty-light tannins. Crisp raspberries, cherries, pomegranate, tangy and chilled, with rose petals, rhubarb, mint and cola elements. Fruity and fun, but elegant, spicy, lively. It’s good to see Siduri keeping things going in this style. A blend of three-vineyards around Boonville, aged 15 months in 35% new French oak. (90 points)
2017 Siduri Pinot Noir Edmeades - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $50
Medium ruby color. Lovely aromas of fresh cherries, raspberries and red plums, topped in cola, rhubarb, white pepper, violets, and some earthy-clay notes. Plush yet zesty on the palate with dusty tannins. Bountiful but crisp fruit (cherries, strawberries, raspberries), and I get notes of spiced tea, rhubarb, cola, violet petals and earth. Plump and fruity but vibrant and complex as well, this should do well with two or three years, but it’s very accessible now, too. From a block of Pommard clone in the Londer block of this vineyard, 50% whole cluster fermentation, aged 10 months in 33% new French oak. (92 points)
2016 Bear Flag Wine Zinfandel - California, Sonoma County
SRP: $30
Light purple color. The nose is juicy and sweet with black cherry, blueberry and raspberry jams, mixed with yummy notes of coffee, cola, sarsaparilla and vanilla. Full-bodied with smooth tannins and surprisingly fresh acidity. Lots of plums, raspberries, black cherries and blueberries, all cooked down into jams with notes of mint, sweet pipe tobacco and cola. Velvety, plush, fun, fan-friendly, but it also sports complexity and vibrancy. There’s this cool earthy, incense, pipe tobacco thing on the finish, too. Really yummy. (89 points)
2016 Frank Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $58
Bright purple color. Big and juicy on the nose with currants, plums and black cherries, suave and fruity but complex notes of eucalyptus, tobacco, mint and dark chocolate notes. Full-bodied on the palate with a warm, inviting feel; velvety tannins, medium acidity. Very pretty fruit (black cherries, currants, dark plums), dark but tangy, and it’s paired well with notes of mint, eucalyptus, tobacco and vanilla. Harmonious and smooth, accessible young but has the structure to hold for a while as well. Includes a combined 10% Merlot and Cabernet Franc, this spends 20 months in 1/3 new French oak. (91 points)
2016 Frank Family Vineyards Zinfandel - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $38
Bright purple. Juicy, tangy aromas of cherries, plums and raspberries, with cola, mint, chewing tobacco and cracked pepper. Full but suave on the palate with velvety tannins and surprisingly fresh acidity. Jammy raspberries, cherries and plums, but the fruit shows a tangy edge, and it’s accented by notes of spicy mint, tobacco, black pepper, hints of espresso and vanilla. So fun to drink bow but this could age for a few years. Includes 9% Petite Sirah, this spends 16 months in 1/3 new French oak. (90 points)
2016 Provenance Vineyards Deadeye - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $50
Deep purple color. The aromas are dark and deep (currants, blueberries, blackberries), with anise, cocoa, vanilla and spice rub notes. This is big, juicy and deep on the palate, a mouth-filling presence with velvety tannins and enough acidity to moderate things. Waves of dark, smooth fruit blend well with cocoa, mint, scorched earth, cedar and tobacco. Graphite and mineral elements on the finish. Big (15.5%) but it holds itself together very well. Sourced from fruit from St. Helena, Howell Mountain, Oakville and Spring Mountain, aged 18 months in French, American and Hungarian oak (50% new). (90 points)
2016 Louis M. Martini Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $40
Medium purple color. The nose is sweet and inviting , with plums, black currants and fig paste, and notes of cedar, cocoa, coffee and scorched earth. Full-bodied with a bold presence on the palate, smooth tannins but they provide some grip, medium acidity. Flavors of juicy dark plums and blackberries (deep but the fruit has a nice tangy edge). Notes of cocoa, cedar, coffee grounds and mint add complexity. A nice warm, slightly earth aesthetic. This is really pleasant yet complex — Louis Martini’s Napa Cab is killer for the price. Aged 21 months in 30% new French and American oak. (90 points)
2016 Louis M. Martini Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Sonoma County
SRP: $20
Light purple color. The nose shows plum sauce, black cherries and currants, warm but fresh fruit, mixed well with anise, cocoa, tobacco and vanilla. Full-bodied with a smooth, suave yet fresh appeal. Juicy and fresh black cherries, plum and cassis. Notes of tobacco, vanilla, clove and forest floor are woven in nicely. This is a really fun, accessible and early-drinking Cabernet, but complex, too, and consistently one of the better Cabs in this price range. Sourced from Frei Ranch and Barrelli Creek Vineyards, this includes some Petite Sirah, Petit Verdot and Merlot, aged 16 months in oak. (88 points)
This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.
Thursday, February 28, 2019
California New Releases: Chardonnay & Pinot Noir
In this report, I tasted two vintages of Chardonnay from Oceano, which is owned and operated by Rachel Martin of Virginia’s Boxwood Estate. The fruit is sourced from the slops of Price Canyon in San Luis Obispo County, and the vineyard is located less than two miles from the coast. The wines were fermented and aged at Caldwell Vineyards in Napa. These wines really impressed me with their lively, salty, oceanic vibes, and I’m excited to see they have a Pinot Noir coming soon, too.
I also tasted some new Anderson Valley releases from FEL, which is owned by Cliff Lede and used to be branded as Breggo years ago. I’ve followed these wines for a long time, and these new ones keep up a long tradition of rocking yet nuanced Pinot and Chard.
These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
2016 Oceano Chardonnay Spanish Springs Vineyard - California, Central Coast, San Luis Obispo County
SRP: $38
Deep yellow color. Popping nose of pineapple, green melon, lemon meringue, with a burst of sea salt and ocean spray, along with spicy floral tea, honey and ginger. Full but not heavy, with vibrant, crisp acidity throughout, which works well with a deep, velvety texture. Flavors of tangerine, green melon, key lime pie, with ginger, honey and bread crumbs. A deep, crusty sea salt element, which I adore, lingers long on the finish. A beautiful balancing act of a Chardonnay. Aged 11 months in French oak, 15% maloactic fermentation. (92 points)
2017 Oceano Chardonnay Spanish Springs Vineyard - California, Central Coast, San Luis Obispo County
SRP: $38
Deep yellow color. Nose bursts with green melon, lemon curd, guava, and a ton of sea salt and ocean breeze, crushed shells, some white tea and honeysuckle. Crisp yet vibrant, lovely texture on a medium/full-bodied frame, but it’s so zesty and the balance is lovely. Lemon, green apple, melon, tangerine, topped in sea salt, crushed shells, hints of toasted bread, vanilla and ginger. Very similar to the 2016 in style, this is kicking now but I’d love to give it a few years. (92 points)
2017 FEL Wines Chardonnay - California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $32
Light gold color. Nose shows yellow pears, yellow apples, along with honey, salted almond, hay, sea spray, crushed shells. On the palate, this is medium-bodied with a rich yet precise texture, refreshing acidity. Yellow pears, apples, apricot, lemon curd, laced with honeysuckle, crushed shells and limestone, ginger, buttercream. There’s also this nice mineral depth, too. Pretty, complex, yet so delicious as well. Aged in neutral French oak for 10 months. (91 points)
2016 Mi Sueño Chardonnay - California, Napa, Carneros
SRP: $42
Light yellow color. Open and bold aromas of yellow pears and apples, lemon curd, with ginger, graham cracker, honey, some ocean spray and chalk. Deliciously full, rich and plump texture, but the acidity moderates it quite nicely. Big, oaky, yes (plenty of honey, almond, buttered biscuits) but there’s also significantly complex notes of sea salt, honeysuckle, chalk, all on top of glazed apples and pears. Deep, delicious, but also intriguing stuff. Aged 18 months in 30% new French oak. (90 points)
2015 Gehricke Pinot Noir Los Carneros - California, Sonoma County, Carneros
SRP: $32
Bright ruby color. Nose shows a mix of roses and violets, clove and rhubarb, on top of jammy raspberries and sweet black cherries. Juicy and ripe on the palate, medium/full-bodied with soft, smooth tannins and moderating acidity. Black cherries, raspberry jam, juicy plums, rich and generous in texture and flavor but it’s quite complex, especially for a wine at this price point, with notes of cola, herbal tea, coffee and toffee. Aged 20 months in French oak, this wine really delivers for the price. (88 points)
2016 FEL Pinot Noir Donnelly Creek Vineyard - California, North Coast, Anderson Valley SRP: $65
Dark ruby color. Bright aromas of black cherries, raspberries, with cola, rose petals and a cool, spicy/herbal mix: pepper, dandelion, eucalyptus, mint. Full frame on the palate, structured well but the tannins have some smoothness to them, too, and the acidity is bright. Jammy raspberries, chilled plums, mixed with roasted earth, chestnut, cracked pepper, rose potpourri, with cedar and clove notes. Very pretty, with a lot of depth, this could blossom well over a few years. Aged 16 months in 20% new French oak. (91 points)
2016 FEL Pinot Noir Ferrington Vineyard - California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $65
Deep ruby color. The aromas pop with red currant, raspberries and strawberries, cherry pie (lots of fruit!) but also some interesting notes of rose petal, clove, pine forest, black tea. Medium/full-bodied with a velvety feel and lip-smacking acidity. Juicy cherries, raspberries, candied red apple, the fruit is mixed with a nice mélange of black tea, roses, anise, bay leaf, dusty earth. Deep yet crisp, there’s a lot to uncover here in the next three-to-six years. Aged 15 months in 37% new French oak. (91 points)













