Exploring wine, birds, and heritage with Meyye Wines

A male Ana's hummingbird I saw in the Superstitions, Arizona

I love exploring California wineries, especially when something new pops up and catches my attention. That was the case immediately with Meyye Wines. And continuing from last week’s post, I wanted to share three wines from this California producer.

The winery pays homage to Rob Campbell’s heritage as a member of the Coastal Miwok/Southern Pomo tribe. Rob started Meyye Wines just two years ago, after working at Story Winery in the Sierra Foothills. The winey focuses on four releases, each from a different area of Northern California.

Meyye is the Coast Miwok word for bird, and as an avid birder, I’m a huge fan of the labels and idea behind each wine. “I’m intentionally using the Coast Miwok language since the language was considered ‘officially dead’ in the past, but my people are making a concerted effort to restore it,” Campbell says.

As you can tell, I value the motivation behind a wine, the story of the people involved, and their aesthetic approach and goals. But the most important factor is the quality of the wine in the glass. And in that realm, Meyye is legit.

Each of the releases I’ve tried blends together accessibility in youth with serious aging potential. You can get a sneak peak of how these wines will perform in the cellar with their 2016 Zin. Crisp, crunchy, integrated, savory, silky, but still so much life and verve for years to come.

If you like California wines with nuance, intrigue, and a great story, Meyye is certainly worth exploring. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2022 Meyye Wines Chardonnay Kuluppis - USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $55

Light yellow color. A fascinating mix of deep and bright aromas (golden apples and pears, lemon zest and orange peel) with plenty of ocean breeze, sea salt, and floral perfume. Delightful creaminess on the palate, with focused acidity, it combines for a balanced and racy wine, with flavors of lemon curd, orange peel, and kiwi. A sense of rushing stream minerals pervades, with talc, seashells, and those richer notes of honey and almond round out the finish. Beautiful stuff to drink now or hold for four or five years. From the Sangiacomo Family’s Kiser Ranch Vineyard, fermented in 50/50 stainless steel and oak, 100% malolactic fermentation and aging in oak. Kuluppis is the Coast Miwok word for the Ana’s hummingbird. (93 points)

2019 Meyye Wines Sokootok - USA, California, Sierra Foothills
SRP: $60
Rich light purple color. Saucy and spicy on the nose, with raspberry jam, tangy plums, blackberry, plenty of roasted red pepper, anise, tobacco, incense, and clove – just a fruity, savory display. Full and ripe on the palate, with smooth tannins and vibrant acidity. Blackberry, cherry jam, roasted figs, the fruit combines so well with the flavors of sauteed portobello mushrooms, black pepper, tobacco, accented with some coffee and dark chocolate. I’d love to see this age over the next five years or so. A delightful, stylish, savory blend of Grenache, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Counoise, Zinfandel, from selected sites in Amador County, this is an exceptional wine to treat like a Chateauneuf-du-Pape and open on a cold night with some savory food and good friends. Sokootok is the Coast Miwok word for the California Quail. (93 points)

2016 Meyye Wines Zinfandel Palachchak - USA, California, Sierra Foothills, California Shenandoah Valley
SRP: $50
Rich purple color. The nose shows a potpourri of savory and floral tones over deep fruit (black cherry, saucy plums, some spiced cranberry relish) with notes of violets, leather, spiced black tea, with some cool barbecue, black pepper, and paprika tones. The palate is suave and juicy with dusty tannins and lively acidity, keeping this wine forward but fresh. Spiced cranberry sauce with mulled black cherries and currants, the fruit is mixed well with complex tones of herbal tea, dried rose petals. There are some cool graphite and mineral tones as well; I love the complexity and subtleties that are coming out as this wine ages. Palachchak is the Coast Miwok word for the California Acorn Woodpecker, one of my favorite birds. 90% Zinfandel and 10% Syrah, 24 months in 40% new American & French oak barrels. (92 points)

Wine Reviews: California new releases

This week I’m back with more California new releases, including some well-known names and new-to-me producers.

Justin’s Paso Robles-based wines are widely available and they have a diverse lineup. I have three of their staples this week that would be great for this late summer, vacation-y time. A Far Niente Cab brings a lot of Napa goodness at a reasonable price, and I also have one of the best bargain California Pinots I’ve found to date in The Pinot Project’s offering.

This is my first dive into Meyye Wines, and I’m already a huge fan. Immediately, I knew something was different with this producer. As a wildlife photographer and bird nerd, the intricate labels embossed with local birds drew me in, and the wines include the names of the birds in the Coast Miwok language. And the wine inside the bottle is just as excellent as I was hoping. Winemaker Rob Campbell — a member of the Federated Indians of Graton Rancheria (Coastal Miwok/Southern Pomo) — launched this project after working with Story Winery in Amador County until 2019, realizing his long-time dream to found a winery honoring his heritage.

“I’m intentionally using the Coast Miwok language since the language was considered ‘officially dead’ in the past, but my people are making a concerted effort to restore it,” Campbell says. “In addition to being ultra-premium wines that taste great, it’s my small way of preserving our language by sharing with native and non-native people alike.” These small production wines are available from the winery’s site, and soon some restaurants, and certainly worth checking out.

These wines were all received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2022 Justin Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $18
Medium yellow color. A vibrant pop on the nose of gooseberry, white peach, orange peel, along with peach blossom, honey, tropical flowers, and honeysuckle. The palate has a juicy and rich texture with flavors of white peach, honey-glazed pears, drizzled with some lemon juice, a ripe yet balanced appeal. Floral and perfumed with honeysuckle, orchard fruit blossoms galore, along with some celery seed and mint tones. Fun, vibrant, fresh, quite complex and a solid bargain. (88 points)

2022 Justin Vineyards Rosé - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $20
The color of ripe watermelon and peach. The palate shows a bright mix of white raspberry, peaches, wild strawberries, with tones of chalk dust, sea salt, some crushed sweet tart and flinty/herbal vibes. The palate sports chunks of pineapple, slices oranges, mango, lime juice, delightful stuff, along with floral, perfumed nuances and tones of white pepper, mint, and celery seed. A base of whole-cluster Syrah, super fun and crowd-pleasing, but complex as well. (90 points)

2020 Justin Vineyards & Winery Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $30
Vibrant purple color. The nose shows suave plums and currants, laced with smoky earth and coffee, notes of pepper, roasted red pepper, some roasted chestnut, hints of dark chocolate. Juicy and ripe on the palate with sweet tannins, a pleasantly chewy feel, with moderated acidity. Flavors of juicy plums, raspberry jam, with currant jam, and the fruit is mixed with tones of anise, tobacco, sage, along with coffee, mocha, and anise cookie. Fun and ripe but nuanced and balanced, too. Great grill-out, crowd-pleasing Cab at a reasonable price. Aged 14 months in 25% new American oak. (89 points)

2021 The Pinot Project Pinot Noir - USA, California
SRP: $13
Light ruby color. Ripe and fun on the nose with fresh strawberries, raspberries, some cherry pie, topped in sliced rhubarb, some white pepper, bay leaf, tobacco nuances. Juicy and fresh on the palate with soft tannins and medium acidity. Available nationwide, it’s rare to find a Pinot Noir of this price point that taste this real and expressive. Great bargain Pinot for late summer parties and cookouts. (88 points)

2019 Charles Krug Winery (Peter Mondavi Family) Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $41
Ripe purple color. Aromas of raspberry jam, plum cake, with black cherry sauce, along with toffee, mocha, vanilla, and elements of sweet pipe tobacco, earth, and charcoal. Plush texture, ripe tannins, juicy and accessible feel but vibrant acidity. A saucy appeal with ripe black cherries, plum cake, and black currant jam, and the fruit is blended well with tones of roasted bell pepper, sweet pipe tobacco, vanilla, coffee, and toffee. Juicy and generous, with solid complexity as well and a delightfully fruity appeal. (89 points)

2021 Far Niente Cabernet Sauvignon Post & Beam - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $55
Rich purple color. The aromas have deep but inviting tones of black currants, tangy red and black plums, with complexities of anise, black pepper, sage, tobacco, dried violets, some stony, earthy vibes – lovely. Full and juicy on the palate but really fresh with fine-grained tannins. The fruit is tangy and crunchy with deep black cherries, currant, some fig paste, and it is sprinkled with elements of pencil shavings, menthol, rocky-earthy notes, along with nuances of coffee grounds and cedar. Suave, fresh, has a really delightful mouthfeel, making this a delight to drink young, but will do well in the cellar, too. (92 points)

2020 Meyye Wines Chardonnay “Kuluppis” - USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $55
Rich yellow color. The nose is juicy and deep with apricot and orange marmalade, some lemon curd, honeyed biscuits, but also it has these breezy, floral vibes, with tropical flowers, daisies, and dandelion. The palate shows pleasant creaminess and ripeness but it is nuanced and shows vibrant acidity, with flavors of pear butter, orange marmalade, and bruised yellow apples. The notes of almond, biscuits, whipped honey, and dried mango are nuanced and delicious, and there’s no overbearing oak. A clear, ripe but vibrant finish with notes of minerals and chalk dust over top of biscuit dough. Delicious stuff from Sangiacomo Vineyard. (91 points)

2019 Meyye Wines Pinot Noir “Omay” - USA, California, Sonoma County, Petaluma Gap
SRP: $75
Deep ruby color. So alive and vibrant on the nose, with the freshest chilled strawberries and raspberries, some cranberry relish, with nuances of rose hips, sage, white pepper, and tobacco. So silky and refined on the palate with dusty tannins and crisp, refreshing acidity. The fruit is pure and delicious (juicy black cherries, tangy strawberries, cranberry relish) laced with tobacco, sage, tilled soil, fallen leaves, clove, white pepper. A ton to unpack here, this is an intricate, refined, and expressive Pinot Noir. Delightful now, but I’d love to cellar it for four or five years. From Sangiacomo and Roberts Road vineyards. (93 points)

2019 Meyye Wines “Sokootok” - USA, California, Sierra Foothills, California Shenandoah Valley
SRP: $60
Pretty, deep ruby color. Ooh, the nose is enticing with these black cherries and saucy plums laced with mesquite, smoky charcoal, pepperoni, graphite, roasted red pepper, tobacco, some violets. The palate is rich but balanced with a fleshy feel but nice grip on the tannins and moderate acidity. Flavors of deep black cherries and spicy cranberry jam, and the fruit is blended wonderfully with tones of tobacco, creosote, mesquite, charcoal, roasted red pepper, leather. Delicious now but things will really start to integrate in the next three to six years and those intricate savory tones will really pop. A blend of Grenache, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Counoise, and Zinfandel from Amador County. (92 points)

2015 Meyye Wines Zinfandel “Palachchak” - USA, California, Sierra Foothills, California Shenandoah Valley
SRP: $70
Vibrant ruby color. The nose is sweet and ripe with crushed raspberries and red cherries, with sliced rhubarb, chewing tobacco, sweet roses, red licorice, some leather – a cool mix. Full and ripe on the palate, refined, integrated tannins with fresh acidity. Big but fresh with juicy raspberry and strawberry fruit, mixed with elements of dusty earth, savory spices, some cola, tobacco, and mint. A lot of fun, and drinking great right now. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirst.

Bidding Farewell To Dirty & Rowdy Mourvèdre

I had mixed feelings when I recently opened two Dirty and Rowdy wines. I’ve long loved this producer’s wines, and have found their different Mourvedres to be some of the most fascinating reds from anywhere in California.

Usually, it’s with pure stoke and joy that I crack open a D&R bottle, preferably to blind some friends on one during a gathering. But, now that this winery has dissolved, there was some longing as I sniffed the bright red fruits. Their wines made quite a splash when they first started, and they have grown a loyal fanbase over the years with their bright, low-intervention wines and whimsical, fun outlook.

In September, Hardy Wallace announced that he and winery co-founder Matt Richardson had come to an “amicable” agreement to dissolve the Napa-based brand. I was saddened to hear this, as I was looking forward to stocking my cellar with more of their delicious vino. Luckily, the news wasn’t all bad, as Hardy and his wife Kate Graham announced they were starting a new venture: Extradimensional Wine Co. I have yet to taste these wines, but they seem like a worthy successor project (like Tryptikon is to Celtic Frost, if that makes sense to a random metalhead, wine-loving reader).

Below are my notes on two exceptional Dirty and Rowdy wines, my last from their mailing list. I hope to open some more D&R wines before the stock diminishes all over, and look forward to Hardy and Kate’s new project as well. 

2018 Dirty and Rowdy Mourvèdre 'ESPECIAL' Rodnick Farm - USA, California, Central Coast, Chalone
$35
I don’t usually think of “elegance” as a term applicable to Mourvedre, but it sure is to this one. So floral, airy, delightful on the nose with juicy red cherries and bright pomegranate. Notes of pepper, lavender, mesquite and rose hips add complexity. Medium-bodied, the mouthfeel is gorgeous, a combination of brisk acidity and dusty tannins supporting bright cherry and tangy strawberry fruit. A racy feel, so floral and perfumed, with complexities of tar, black tea, beef drippings, mushrooms. Refined and pretty, but this should continue to deal out goodness for a while, although it’s drinking really great now. (92 points)

2019 Dirty and Rowdy Mourvèdre Shake Ridge Ranch - USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Amador County
$60
The nose here is something else: the freshest raspberries and strawberries, mixed with tones of spicy red pepper, black pepper, white pepper, rose petals, cherry blossoms, even some orange peel, along with anise and sage – wow. Structured well with dusty, mid-strength tannins and crisp acidity, with tart currant and raspberry – so tangy and alive. Roses, paprika, clay, black pepper, minerals and graphite, this has so much going on for it. The mouthfeel is perfectly balanced. I’d love to see this in three or four years, as this got so much better on day two. (94 points)

Rolling the Dice on 1990s California Zinfandels

There's a well-known old saying that goes something like: There are no great wines, just great bottles of wine.

That is so true, especially when dealing with aged wines. And especially dealing with wines that are not traditionally cellared for long periods of time, like California Zinfandel.

Sure there are some known to age well (Turley, Ridge and Ravenswood come to mind), but Zinfandels are usually fun, early-drinking, juicy wines. What happens when they have 25 or so years of cellar time?

Well, in some cases, nothing good happens. But some bottles can really shine, as a recent tasting of California Zinfandels from the 1990s demonstrated.

These wines were all curated by a good wine-collecting buddy of mine who bought them from various sources over the years and kept them in good cellar conditions. But aging wine isn't an exact science, and some of the wines showed serious flaws - mostly volatile acidity, which can happen when aging higher alcohol wines for this long.

We all expected a few of the wines to be undrinkable, and we were right. But I'm not sure I expected some of the wines to pop out of the glass with life and wow me. A few sure did. Below are my notes of the aged Zins I tasted.

If you've tasted any good aged Zins recently, I'd love to hear about them in the comments. Cheers!

1992 Boeger Winery Zinfandel Walker Vineyard - USA, California, Sierra Foothills, El Dorado

This one is sported some stewed tomatoes on the nose with mint, leaves, hints of brambly red fruit. Light tannins, showing some heat, moderate acidity. Red cherries still there, with notes of coffee grounds, oak and leather. Actually a lot better on the palate than I was expecting. (86 pts.)

1990 Storybrook Zinfandel Estate Reserve - USA, California, Napa Valley
Pepper and plums on the nose. Fresh, zesty, dusty tannins. Seems to show quite a bit of life left here with red plums and raspberries, and notes of pepper, soy and leaves. Impressive complexity on this refined, aged wine. (88 pts.)

1993 Greenwood Ridge Vineyards Zinfandel Scherrer Vineyards - USA, California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley
A more muted nose with sweet cherries and coffee. Plum cake dominates the palate with soft tannins and medium acidity. Raisined, but showing some cool wild herb notes underneath. (83 pts.)

1991 The Terraces Zinfandel - USA, California, Napa Valley
Leafy aromas in a good way (like all kinds of forest floors) mixed with bell pepper, black pepper, on top of tangy red currants. Zippy, dusty and spicy on the palate with light tannins and crisp acidity. This is a really cool and fresh wine, and the red fruit is still going, while the earthy, savory, spicy notes take front seat. One of the better wines of the evening. (90 pts.)

1991 Storybrook Zinfandel Estate Reserve - USA, California, Napa Valley
Tired but wild on the nose with strawberries, tomato leaf and a massive amount of paprika. Sour, tart and crazy on the palate with volatile acidity. The amount of insane paprika and cumin flavors cannot be overstated. (FLAWED)

1992 Storybrook Zinfandel Estate Reserve - USA, California, Napa Valley
What a world of difference from the 1991! Shows lively strawberries and raspberries and red licorice on the nose. Plush, still going on the palate with dusty tannins and juicy raspberry and cherry fruit. Integrated notes of gamey meat, soy, black pepper glaze. This one is a lot of fun. (89 pts.)

1994 Storybrook Zinfandel Estate Reserve - USA, California, Napa Valley
Yikes, this is a Sherried, Madeirized wreck. In a feat of palate masochism, I made myself taste it after realizing how messed up it was on the nose, just to have another point of reference in the wine fault memory. The wine was not pleasant in any way. (FLAWED)

1992 Ravenswood Zinfandel Dickerson - USA, California, Napa Valley Pretty yet bold on the nose with strawberries, plum cake, pepper, oak and cedar. Juicy on the palate with a rich texture but nuance and integration from age. Yummy strawberries and wild berries on the palate with complex elements of menthol, charcoal, leather, wild herbs. Wow, this is balance, delicious, has aged well. Just really good stuff. My wine of the night easily.  (91 pts.)

1993 Ravenswood Zinfandel Los Chamizal - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley
Cherry pie on the nose with cola, herbs, pepper. Really ripe, juicy, dark and roasted, but it’s put together well and still lively. Juicy and dark but some black pepper, bell pepper and cocoa notes. Delicious stuff! (89 pts.) 

1993 Ravenswood Zinfandel Grandpère - USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Amador County
This wine was a bit weird, dusty, with volatile acidity throwing things out of whack. Sour cherries and tart raspberries with dusty, earthy, sooty notes. Ah well. I was hoping this was still pumping. (FLAWED)

Delicious, Meaty Mourvedre from California

I don't think I pay enough attention to the Mourvedre grape. I do love me some reds and pink wines from Bandol, the Mourvedre grape's ancestral stomping grounds. But there's so much more out there to explore.
California is home to some excellent Mourvedre, when planted in the right spots and crafted by the right winemakers. While used as a blending grape (usually with Grenache, Syrah or other red Rhone varieties), several winemakers are producing varietal Mourvedres that recently reminded me of the heights this grape can achieve.

Dirty & Rowdy have been making waves for a long time now, and justifiably so. I recently tasted two of their Mourvedres, and a Mourvedre-based blend, that blew me away with their freshness, spiciness, and unique flavor profiles. Add in a wonderful Mourvedre from Sonoma-based Two Shepherds, and a Bandol, and you've got yourself a fun afternoon.

I tasted these wines with good friends and lots of friend chicken. The chicken was salty, spicy and moist, and actually worked really well, especially with the leaner Mourvedre style of these California wines. My notes below...


2014 Two Shepherds Mourvedre - California, Sierra Foothills, El Dorado

Aromas of fresh raspberries, cherries, red apples, spicy pepper and roses. So brisk and bright on the palate, but structure from the tannins, refreshing, crisp red fruits. I love to roses, white pepper and bay leaf elements. Gorgeous. (92 points)

2016 Dirty and Rowdy Mourvedre Old Vine Enz Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Lime Kiln Valley
Nose of spices and roses but some pomegranate and black cherries. Fresh, lively, tangy with dusty tannins, raspberries and pepper. Lots of fun but deep, complex, with earthy, savory and floral complexities that will come out more with time. (91 points) 

2016 Dirty and Rowdy Mourvedre Shake Ridge Ranch - California, Sierra Foothills, Amador County
Aromas of black pepper, roses, potpourri on top of raspberries, red apples. Crisp and bright acidity but structured so well. Cherries, spicy currants, raspberries, spicy black pepper, earthy notes, deep floral tones. This was decanted for hours and it felt airy and floral, but still structured for a solid sleep in the cellar. (92 points)

2016 Dirty and Rowdy MSG Chalone - California, Central Coast, Chalone
Really cool aromatic display of black cherries and spiced cranberry sauce, roses, black pepper. Bold tannins but crisp acidity. Crunchy black cherries, pomegranate, lots of baking spices and dark, earthy, charcoal notes but also airy, lifted notes. Complex minerals underneath. Really pretty, I’d love to crack open another in three to five years. Mourvedre, Syrah and Grenache. (93 points) 

2014 La Bastide Blanche Bandol - France, Provence, Bandol
So smoky and beefy on the nose (definitely some brett, but it’s not overwhelming), with black cherries, roasted red peppers. Super grippy on the palate, this was by far the heaviest wine of the night (as expected), and really needs more time. Medium acidity keeps it lively. Lots of smoky, roasted herbs, earth, violets, charcoal. Massive, young but yummy. (90 points)

Gallica - Superb Wines From Diverse California Sites

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

When it comes to long-running Napa winemakers, Rosemary Cakebread’s resume is legit. Since 1979, she’s been immersed in the Napa wine scene, from a cellar job at the famous Inglenook Winery, to a winemaking gig at Cabernet heavy-hitter Spottswoode, to crafting sparkling wine at Mumm — she knows her stuff.

Rosemary Cakebread. Photo Credit: Meg Smith.

A UC Davis grad, Rosemary started Gallica in 2007 so she could, “do what I wanted to do.” She focuses specifically on single-vineyard wines from organic sites, branching out to work with Albarino and Rhone varieties in the Sierra Foothills and Santa Lucia Highlands. Named after an ancient variety of European rose, Gallica pays homage to Rosemary’s love of aromatics in wine, which shows wonderfully in the four wines I’ve tasted.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2015 Gallica Albariño Rorick Heritage Vineyard - California, Sierra Foothills, Calaveras County

SRP: $36 

Medium gold color. Aromas of honey, cantaloupe, peach nectar, along with floral perfume, honey and hints of sea spray. Medium/full-bodied with a very creamy, almost waxy mouthfeel but there’s such pleasant acidity that keeps this wine fresh. The palate gushes with peach, orange peel, apricot jam, along with honeycomb, floral perfume and glazed nuts. A more hedonistic style of Albarino, this is absolutely delicious yet it stays so fresh and vibrant. This gets a bit of skin contact and also includes a dash of Muscat Blanc. This wine comes from a 2,000-foot, steep volcanic slope called Rorick Heritage Vineyards, and the average age of these Albarino vines is 20-25 years. A treasure of a site, and what awesome fruit. This is Rosemary Cakebread’s first white wine under the Gallica label, and she said she aims for lots of texture in her white wine, so she nailed this. What I love is the way that texture aligns with such vibrant acidity for a real sense of balance. 180 cases. (90 points)

2014 Gallica Grenache Red Wine Shake Ridge Ranch - California, Sierra Foothills, Amador County

SRP: $50 

Vibrant ruby color. Gorgeous nose of raspberries, red currants and pomegranate, along with notes of iron, crushed rocks and spiced black tea. Full but balanced between medium tannins and crisp acidity. Bright red cherries and pomegranate mixes with darker cherry and plum, the fruit is ripe and vibrant and laced with notes of sage, tobacco, scorched earth, sweet clove, crushed rocks. I get this fascinating smoked meat and chorizo note that comes out more and more with time. Packed with flavor but so refreshing, too. A blend of 53% Syrah, 34% Grenache, 11% Mourvedre and 2% Viognier. Aged 17 months in 50% new French oak. 213 cases. From a site in Amador that sits between 1,500 and 1,700 feet in elevation. (91 points)

2014 Gallica Syrah Soberanes Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands

SRP: $60

Dark, saucy purple color. Aromas of rich black cherries, tart plums, scorched earth, charcoal, bacon fat and black olives. Plush and velvety on the palate, such intrepid balance between sturdy tannins and fresh acidity. Tart but rich fruit (black cherries, blueberries), gushing but refreshing and crunchy at the same time. The fruit is smothered in anise, grill smoke, charcoal, dark coffee, cedar, hints of vanilla. Seriously, the finish reminds me of a plate of delicious cured meat and olives, and it’s fantastic. A beauty to taste young, but this has five to eight years written all over it. Lots of complexity and elegance to unpack. 65% whole cluster fermentation, 153 cases. (93 points)

2013 Gallica Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville Ranch Vineyards - California, Napa Valley

SRP: $160

Deep purple color. Gorgeous aromatic display of enticing black currant, dark plums and black cherries, topped in menthol, tobacco, cigar shop, graphite and complex earth notes. Full-bodied but pure and balanced. Dense, bold tannins but excellent balance from the acidity. Black cherry, blueberry, plums, saucy but full of tartness. Complex waves of cedar, pencil shavings, charcoal, iron and dusty soil cascade over the palate, and I get flavors of herbs, violets, potting soil and minerals as well. So complex, this needs lots of time in the cellar to show its best, but this is absolutely gorgeous. Includes some Cabernet Franc, this is sourced from a site in Oakville’s eastern hills, between 800 and 1,400 feet. 249 cases. (94 points)

Synapse Winery - Discovering Syrah Gold in California's El Dorado

A cool, dark refuge from the sun. Might make a good wine cellar?

The July sun had warmed up the the hills of El Dorado County, but a hundred feet below the rock the air felt cool and crisp. I was exploring an old gold mine near Placerville, California, with my fiancée and my brother, sister-in-law and their three-week-old boy. I’d never been to this part of Northern California before, and I got a kick out of seeing the carved-up veins and mineral deposits in the rock. Judging from the length and depth of the cave, it was easy to see why so many gold rushers flocked to this spot.

With abundant sunshine, a dry climate and a complex puzzle of rocky soils, it’s also easy to see why grapegrowers and winemakers have picked this area to put down roots. This part of El Dorado County falls within the massive Sierra Foothills appellation, which encompasses the western parts of eight counties from Yuba County in the north to Mariposa County in the south. The El Dorado American Viticultural Area (AVA), a subset of the Sierra Foothills appellation, covers a western portion of the county that sits between 1,200 feet and 3,500 feet above sea level. I’ve long been fascinated by the Zinfandels, Syrahs and other Rhone variety-based wines from this rugged region of California. But exploring the land itself was a rich and memorable experience.

Synapse’s tasting room in Placerville. © Synapse, used with permission.

El Dorado is not Napa. It’s not the Sonoma Valley. There’s not much of a “wine route” and I didn’t see any billboards advertising tasting rooms or posh vineyard tours. This off-the-beaten-track feel was refreshing. But I did get a chance to stroll down Placerville’s Main Street, a quaint strip that houses galleries, old hotels, craft stores, a cheese shop. Placerville’s Main Street is also home to the Synapse Winery tasting room. After hiking around old gold mines, I was looking forward to trying some local wines, so my family and I went in and grabbed a table. We were the only people there on a Tuesday afternoon, so the tasting room attendant gave us the whole treatment. He was generous, knowledgeable and his enthusiasm for Synapse wines seemed genuine. When tasting wines I’ve never heard of, I try to keep my expectations low. So I was even more excited when the wines turned out to be really good.

Synapse is a relatively new project that focuses on El Dorado Syrah, although they make wine from other varieties and source grapes from other Northern California spots. Husband and wife duos Bruce and Alisa Ginier and Randy and Debbi Knutzon comprise the Synapse team. Bruce and Randy, both neuroradiologists, kicked off the project when they bought a spot near Somerset they thought would be perfect for a vineyard. They planted their first vines in 2002 and crushed their first grapes in 2005. Randy’s wife Debbie Knutzon, a molecular biologist, makes the wines, and she seems to bring a sense of scientific rigor to the winemaking. I think it shows in the glass. Deliciousness aside, Synapse Syrahs taste precise and focused, like all chemical processes occurred exactly as they were supposed to. The tight-knit team’s medical background also shows itself in Synapse’s brain-themed label art.

I was less impressed with the wines sourced from outside of the Sierra Foothills. Although I think they’re generally decent, the outside fruit just doesn’t possess that higher level of quality, in my opinion (of course). But as I sipped the El Dorado bottles, two things became clear to me: 1) these Synapse folks grow some solid estate fruit; and 2) Knutzon makes some solid wine. The Hangman and Diffusion Syrahs wowed me most of all with their pure fruit and kicking earth tones. They’re delicious right now, but I would put both the 2007s and the 2008s sideways for two years or so. While they’re drinkable young, these babies are nowhere near full maturity.

Here are my notes on some Synapse wines…

2011 Synapse Sauvignon Blanc - California, North Coast, Mendocino County ($18)
Honey, white peach and a hint of grass on the nose. Really tangy palate, medium-bodied, with creamy white peach and honeysuckle. Slight herbal kick. Simple but good. (86 points)

2012 Synapse Symphony - California, Central Valley, Lodi ($20)
Really fruity and floral on the nose (mango, peach, acacia flowers). Juicy and full on the palate, with fresh peaches, lychee and cantaloupe. A plush patio pounder that would be a hit at summer parties. Symphony is a UC Davis cross between Grenache Gris and Muscat. (82 points)

2010 Synapse Chardonnay - California, North Coast, Mendocino ($24)
Interesting nose of green pear, wildflowers and mint. Fresh and clean on the palate, with crisp acid. A salty note combines with the green melon fruit. A simple, brisk chardonnay. (84 points)

2009 Synapse Zinfandel - California, Sierra Foothills, El Dorado ($19)
An impressive Zinfandel, with aromas of fresh cherries, raspberry candy, sweet roses and vanilla. Firm tannins combine with surprisingly fresh acid. This Zin has tons of bright red fruit and shots of black and green pepper. Endlessly drinkable but held together with solid structure. (89 points)

2009 Synapse Grenache - California, Sierra Foothills, El Dorado ($28)
What an impressive Grenache. Smells of cherries, red plums, BBQ sauce, dried flowers and pepper. Full on the palate with firm tannins. Dense, but the plum fruit tastes cool and clean. Black licorice, cracked pepper and sweet BBQ sauce make this a really complex wine. I bought a bottle and drank it the next day with some barbecued ribs, and the pairing was excellent. (90 points)

2007 Synapse Syrah Diffusion - California, Sierra Foothills, El Dorado ($26)
I wasn’t expecting this Syrah to be so damn good, but the wine persisted and convinced me. Intoxicating aromas of red and black fruit, flowers and rich earth. Firm tannins on the palate, with fleshy plum and cherry fruit, and it all combines to form a mouthfeel of pure silk. Vanilla and earth accent the fruit. Long finish. Really delicious stuff. The Diffusion is made in a Côte-Rôtie style by co-fermenting 90% Syrah with 10% Viognier. (91 points)

2008 Synapse Syrah Diffusion - California, Sierra Foothills, El Dorado ($28)
More Old World aromas than the 2007, showing pepper and beefy notes along with rich blackberry fruit. Firm tannins and fresh acid make way for the pure black cherry and plum fruit. A pretty approach, with notes of cola, pepper and meat. Long and pure, and worthy of a good decant or a year or two in the cellar. (90 points)

2007 Synapse Syrah Hangman’s - California, Sierra Foothills, El Dorado ($30)
Just as good as the Diffusion Syrah, but this 100% Syrah shows darker, richer themes. Aromas of plums, dense blackberries, dark chocolate and molasses. Plush and creamy texture on the palate, but firm tannins solidify the structure. Gobs of rich blueberry and blackberry fruit coat the palate, backed up by pepper, loam and mocha. I was reminded of Walla Walla Syrah while drinking this, because it has that density and purity of fruit. Ridiculously long finish. The 2007 shows a much more bombastic style than the 2008, but I can’t help but love this wine. Long time ahead of it, too. (91 points)

2008 Synapse Syrah Hangman’s - California, Sierra Foothills, El Dorado ($28)
Complex nose of blueberry, peppered steak, charcoal and earth. Pure and silky on the palate with juicy acid and fine-grained tannins. The blueberry fruit mixes with cranberry, making this lighter and fresher than the 2007. Beef broth, pepper and charcoal notes add complexity. Seamless finish with a streak of minerals. Obviously California, but this wine pays homage to the Rhone Valley with its minerality and meaty tones. Loving this stuff. (92 points)

2011 Synapse Syrah CDI - California, Sierra Foothills, El Dorado ($30)
This dessert-style Syrah is a lot of fun. An explosion of sweet, ripe berries on the nose. Juicy on the palate with rich black fruit and lots of molasses and chocolate. Also a flavor that reminds me of those raspberry Haribo candies. Hints of earth make this more than a simple sticky. 4% residual sugar. I can’t remember what “CDI” actually stands for, but the tasting room attendant quipped that it should mean “chicks dig it” because of its easy-drinking, sweet approach. (87 points)

2011 Synapse Syrah Indulgence - California, Sierra Foothills, El Dorado ($30)
Normally I’m skeptical of such sticky-sweet California “port” style wines, but this is one hooked me. Aromas of fig, molasses, dark chocolate and nuts. My brother mentioned a chalky aroma, and I think he’s right. Dense on the palate. Rich, but easy to drink, with blackberry and fig combined with pepper and that same chalky aspect I get on the nose. A dessert-style wine with 11% residual sugar and 18% alcohol. (88 points)

The Synapse tasting room is open seven days a week, and the winery provides a coupon for a free tasting flight at this link. If you’re ever in California gold country, it’s definitely worth checking out. If you’re in Sacramento, it’s an easy drive. You may be the only ones there, but the staff is pleasant and helpful, and they should treat you well.

Last note: I can’t find much discussion about Synapse wines on the interwebs, so if anyone reading has some more experience with their wines, please chime in with your thoughts. Cheers!

Welcoming Summer with California Zinfandel & Blends

The weather has been beautiful on the East Coast these last few weeks. Almost every evening, as I’m strolling through my Northwest, DC, neighborhood, I pick up the rich, sweet smells of grilled meat. Instantly, I crave zinfandel. Here are six zinfandels and zinfandel-based blends from California that would brighten up any BBQ or patio party. 

All wines were received as trade samples and tasted blind.

2009 McCay Cellars “Paisley” - California, Central Valley, Lodi ($28)

Juicy on the nose, with cherry and raspberries, but there’s also this complex dusty aroma that makes me think of an old library shelf. Notes of sweet incense and roses came out with time. Jammy and juicy on the palate, with medium tannins and acid. Generous cherry and wild berry fruit mixes with potting soil. Notes of fruit gum and caramel linger on the finish. Crowd-pleasing for sure, but more than just fruity. 55% Zinfandel, 45% Petite Sirah. (88 points) 

 
2010 Mettler Family Vineyards Old Vine Zinfandel “Epicenter” - California, Central Valley, Lodi­ ($20)
Dark and saucy on the nose, with lots of plums and blackberries, along with mocha, chocolate shavings and some earthy-peppery notes. Bright berry fruit leads the way on the palate (raspberry and blackberries), the acid is medium-to-low, and the tannins show some grip. The chocolate, toasty aspects are bold but integrated. Notes of cinnamon and baker’s chocolate linger on the rich, plummy finish. (86 points) 
 

2010 Artezin Zinfandel Mendocino County - California, North Coast, Mendocino County ($18)
Smells of prunes, candied plums, milk chocolate and toasty oak. Juicy and full of ripe plum and raspberry fruit. Smooth tannins and medium acid help this go down easy. Notes of pepper, clove, green olive and smoke round out the fruit. Long finish. A fun, fruit-forward wine, but nice secondary characteristics. (87 points) 

2010 Stepping Stone by Cornerstone “Red Rocks!” - California, North Coast ($18)

Really nice mix of aromas: loam and pepper along with tart blackberries and currants. Solid depth on the palate, with velvety tannins. The fruit is tangy and tart, but not light, like fresh blackberries and currants; this is all highlighted by notes of graphite, pepper and cedar. Almost Bordeaux-like in its approach, but steeped in the tart black fruit that screams Mendocino. The producer doesn’t list what grapes are in this blend, but it’s at least partly made from Zinfandel. For a wine with an exclamation point, this is serious juice. (88 points)

2008 Chatom Vineyards Zinfandel - California, Sierra Foothills, Calaveras County ($20)
Clear medium ruby colored in the glass. Aromas of cranberry, red plum, smoke and vanilla. Medium-to-low acid, medium-grain tannins, this zinfandel focuses on sour cherry and red plum fruit, and there's a flavor that reminds me a lot of Thanksgiving cranberry sauce. Notes of pepper, tobacco and toast highlight the ripe fruit. (87 points) 

2010 Artezin Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley - California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley ($25)
The nose is dark and smoky, with charcoal, baked blackberry, sweet plums and brown sugar. This zinfandel is jammy and super-fruity, with gobs of blackberry and plum. The tannins, however, are quite mild. It finishes a little weak, but otherwise a pleasant, ripe, fruit-driven wine. (85 points) 

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: California Grab Bag

One of my wine matras is: try new things. Today’s reviews focus on California winemakers who are doing just that. Lately I’ve been reviewing a lot of cabernets, pinot noirs and chardonnays from California. While these wines can be spectacular, it’s always fun to highlight winemakers who are working with lesser-known varieties. Some of these grapes you may have heard of, some maybe not. If you haven’t tried a Santa Barbara viognier or some of the unique red varieties coming out of the Sierra Foothills, there has never been a better time than now to experiment.

All wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.  

2010 Curtis Roussanne - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County ($29)

Light gold colored. Aromas of yellow apple, green melon, beeswax. Palate shows medium acid, a little lacking in structure. Apple juice, green tea and green melon flavors mix with notes of clover honey and pineapple. Tangy acid and a hint of mineral linger onto the finish. Overall, not very complex, but it’s got enough verve from the acid to keep it going. (86 points)

2011 Curtis Viognier - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County ($29)

A tropical mélange of papaya, pineapple and mango on the nose, but it’s not over the top because there are these bright white flower aromas as well. Plump and generously textured with persistent acid. The papaya, green melon and tangerine flavors are laced with limestone and this flavor that reminds me of a mountain stream. Just a hint of honeycomb and lemon crème, probably from the 8 months this wine spends in contact with the lees. Even so, this is more of a sleeker style of viognier. I really appreciate the overall balance and the length of the finish. (89 points)

2011 Fess Parker Viognier - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County ($20)
Like potpourri on the nose, with aromas of lilies, honeysuckle, tangerine. Plump on the palate, but the acid is surprisingly fresh. Usually in Central Coast viognier I get too much thickness and not enough acid, but this is fresh and full of nice tart flavors. There’s some nice rich white peach and pineapple, backed up by some oily-nutty notes. Crisp finish. (88 points)

Semillon is used in the expensive dessert wine Sauternes,
but this dry version from Calaveras County is a bargain.

2011 Chatom Vineyards Sémillon - California, Sierra Foothills, Calaveras County ($16)

Fresh aromas of pineapple, papaya mixed with salted lime and white flowers. Juicy, light and fresh, with creamy peach and white flower flavors. There’s a flavor that reminds me of lime drizzled on papaya — love it. The waxy aspect makes this interesting. I’d be a happy camper drinking this with fried calamari on a sunny afternoon. (87 points)

2011 Castello di Amorosa Sangiovese “Gioia” - California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley ($24)

This rose of Sangiovese shows a pretty cherry-rose color in the glass. Aromas of McIntosh apples, red plums, wild strawberries and a hint of tobacco. Tart acid on the palate, but it’s balanced by fresh apple, strawberry and watermelon fruit. There’s a kick of pepper, lemon rind and mineral that lingers long onto the finish. Such a fresh wine, it begs for grilled seafood and Greek salads. One of the better domestic roses I’ve had in quite a while. (88 points)

California interpretations of Italian grapes can be
hit or miss for my palate. This one's a home run.

2009 Castello di Amorosa Sangiovese - California, Napa Valley, St. Helena ($30)
Bright ruby color. Bright and sweet on the nose: red licorice, red cherries, roses, clove and a note that reminds me of sweet paprika. The palate is full of juicy strawberry fruit and lots of acid. Fine tannins combine for an overall creamy mouthfeel. The important thing to note here is that the oak is used judiciously. Notes of green olive and tobacco accentuate the bright red fruit. This is a Cal-Ital done very well, and I frankly enjoy it more than a lot of Tuscan wines at twice the price. 90% Sangiovese and 10% Merlot. (91 points)

2009 Chatom Vineyards Touriga Nacional - California, Sierra Foothills, Calaveras County ($24)
Dark berries on the nose, fig paste, mocha, these richer aromas play with herbal and broth aromas as well, and it makes for an interesting combo. Dusty tannins on the palate, medium acid and a balanced mix of fruit and non-fruit flavors: cherry, raspberry, olive, smoke, soy and garlic. Really earthy and briny, and coming from California, I'm enjoying it. The fruit is rich enough to indicate California, but the non-fruit flavors are off the charts. Love it. Made from one of the classic Port grapes. (88 points)

2010 Fields Family Wines Tempranillo - California, Central Valley, Lodi ($22)

Smoky on the nose, with aromas of charcoal and mocha over top of blackberries and raspberries. Full of dark fruit on the palate, plums, blackberries and blueberries, slathered with rich mocha and baking spices. Fine tannins, low acid, noticeable alcohol, this is a seriously jammy and dense wine, with an almost bourbon-esque finish of sweet coconut. (87 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

A California Syrah Defies Convention, Expands Consciousness

At a blind tasting last week I came across a wine that both puzzled and delighted me. It smelled of blackberries, roses, violets and rich earth. On the palate, the wine was fresh and light, the acid was tangy, and the tannins were fine. The flavors of olive, black tea, white pepper and crushed rocks were complex and intriguing. And the earthy and mineral-driven finish lasted forever. As I’m prone to do at blind tastings, I tried to guess the grape and region. The olive and earth aspects reminded me of a Northern Rhone syrah, perhaps a single-vineyard Crozes-Hermitage? But the black tea and mineral also made me think of a pinot from the Jura region of France. (Two other experienced tasters guessed nebbiolo from Piedmont.)

What the hell was this stuff? I was confused, but I rated it a conservative 92 points.

When the wine was unveiled, I was shocked. It was a 2010 Edmunds St. John Syrah “Wylie-Fenaughty” from El Dorado County, located in California’s Sierra Foothills appellation. The alcohol clocked in at a meager 13%. After tasting this wine, my journalistic mind kicked into gear — I just had to find out what made this California syrah so damn unique.

Keeping in mind the truism “wine is made in the vineyard,” let’s start there. The syrah juice in this bottle comes from two separate vineyards (hence the hyphenated name on the label). Both the Wylie Vineyard and the Fenaughty Vineyard are located at 2,800 feet on separate sides of the American River. The Wylie Vineyard soil is shallow and composed of fractured quartzite and shale. This hilly spot gets so steep that some rows of vines had to be terraced. Co-founder and winemaker Steve Edmunds describes the Fenaughty Vineyard this way: “The soil at Fenaughty is volcanic, in origin, a series known as Aiken Loam; it’s very red in color, sandy in texture, with a good deal of rock mixed in.”

A cooperative effort between Steve and his wife Cornelia St. John, Edmunds St. John has been making wine since 1985. Based in Berkeley, the couple also sources grapes from Napa, Mendocino and San Luis Obispo Counties. (The story of the winery is fascinating, and detailed here.) Steve Edmunds made his first syrah that same year, sourcing the grapes from Paso Robles. The resulting wine came in with a bantamweight alcohol content of 10.5%! Edmunds says he was hoping for something like 12.5%, but, either way, I think this says a lot about the winemaker’s approach to syrah. And the 2010 Syrah Wylie-Fenaughty says a lot about the shortfalls of the Old World-New World dichotomy. It fights back against the general conception of California syrah as a hot blackberry boot to the teeth.
 

Steep slopes of syrah - Wylie Vineyard

Edmunds seems like a true terroirist. In a 2010 blog post, he explains how “California syrah” is not the most helpful mental construct, considering the tremendous diversity of elements that come together in each bottle of wine. “The fact that Syrah in California has been thought of, for most of the past twenty-odd years, as being very dark, full-bodied, powerful wine makes a certain kind of sense, at least in the abstract. California is generally a warm place, with a long, mostly dry growing season, one that starts early and hangs around almost until the Winter holidays in many years. But this abstract sense strikes me as neither informative nor useful, since California’s geography boasts stunning variability in elevation, proximity to the ocean, marine airflow patterns, mountain airflow patterns, soil moisture-retaining capacity, soil vigor, wind and sun exposures, topography, and so on, that profoundly influence the nature of wine produced on any given site.”

If you’re interested in expanding your own concept of what syrah is capable of achieving in California, drink this stuff. And, check this out: K&L Wines is selling this syrah for a modest $30 sum. Well worth it, especially when you consider that consumers probably won’t see “Wylie” on any more Edmunds St. John labels. (In an email, Steve wrote: “Wylie, unfortunately, is no longer a source for us. Long, sad tale of woe.”) Yes, it is sad, but I plan on scoping out more wines from this producer very soon.

Cheers!