Value and honesty from Balverne's new Sonoma offerings

Some things never get old. A few random examples for me: watching a hummingbird visit a flower; eating good garlic bread; a hug from a friend or family member; spinning the Ramones’ first three albums. And classic varieties of Sonoma wine. 

Here comes Balverne, from Windsor, Sonoma County, to present some new releases that offer a delightful (albeit rare these days) combination of wines with value and true grit. Notre Vue is the umbrella winery, producing wines under that label and Balverne.

Notre Vue Estate vines. Credit: Jeff Granbery

Balverne Cellars dates back to 1972, and in 1992 Bob Stein and Renée Brown Stein purchased it. It was re-launched as Notre Vue with the first vintage in 2014.

This producer now boasts estates that encompass more than 700 acres. Some 250 acres are planted to grape vines, which includes an impressive 18 different varieties. And about 350 of those acres are preserved as “forever wild” -- an oak forest nature preserve, which looks beautiful and provides critical habit for local wildlife. Well done.  

They offer the classics done right, sourcing grapes from estate vineyards in the Chalk Hill and Russian River Valley appellations, and crafted by winemaker Molly Lippitt.

If you’re looking to try something new-to-you from Sonoma, and don’t want to spend a lot, there’s not an unexciting wine in this lot. I've tasted Notre Vue and Balverne for a few years now, and the consistency is also clear.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted. 

2022 Balverne Chardonnay Estate Grown Forever Wild - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $35
Light yellow color. Aromatically, we’re talking lush yellow pears, honeydew, tangy green apples, drizzled with lime, and topped in sea salt, floral perfume, hints of hay, and white flowers. Racy acidity kicks off the palate, and the Chard displays a plush texture, balanced nicely. Pure and lively with flavors of yellow apples, key lime pie, and honeydew melon. I get notes of se salt, chalk dust, hay, almond skin, and some honeycomb as well. Lovely depth but so balanced and fresh as well. Great value. (93 points)

2021 Balverne Zinfandel Forever Wild Notre Vue Estate Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $30
Light purple color. The nose shows a deep but vibrant mix of plum sauce, roasted figs, tangy red and black cherries, along with notes of violets, roses, tobacco, clay, and white pepper – fresh but savory and complex. On the palate, the first thing that gets me is the zippy acidity, which carries the wine from start to finish. Dusty tannins provide structure for the fruit, which sports tangy raspberry and red cherries with darker notes of plum sauce and roasted figs. Complex non-fruit elements assemble neatly: oregano, warm clay, black tea, potting soil, and graphite. Delightfully complex and juicy and the freshness is clutch. Great for summer grilling or to cellar for a few years as well. Includes 8% Mourvedre, 5% Grenache, 4% Petite Sirah (92 points)

2022 Balverne Pinot Noir Forever Wild - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $45

Medium ruby color. Aromas show the freshest red cherries, with strawberries, and red apple, blended well with tones of rose petals, sage, dusty earth, hints of tobacco, rhubarb, and clay. Delightfully fresh on the palate with smooth tannins and a juicy but zippy appeal. Farmstand fresh red cherries and strawberries are woven in nicely with flavors of white pepper, sage, tobacco, rhubarb, and some hints of roasted chestnut and cola. Crisp, full of tangy fruit, and the non-fruit complexities are lovely. (92 points)  

2021 Balverne Cabernet Sauvignon Forever Wild - USA, California, Sonoma County, Chalk Hill
SRP: $48
Deep purple color. A saucy but tangy compote on the nose – dark currants, plums, black cherries, along with earth and fallen leaves, violets and graphite, white pepper and dried violets. A lot going on. Structured nicely with solid grip and fine-edged tannins and (if you’re noticing a pattern here), fresh acidity. Tangy red and black currant fruit, wild blackberries, saucy but vibrant fruit. I love the floral and savory tones, like violets and dried rose potpourri tossed with cloves, white pepper, black tea, and hints of mint and chewing tobacco. Lovely structure, vibrancy, and complexity. Showing great now (although a decant could help) or cellar for a good amount of years and let it unfurl. Includes 8% Petit Verdot, 7% Malbec, 5% Cabernet Franc, 3% Merlot (93 points)

Delightful Chardonnay and Pinot from Ram’s Gate Winery

It’s impossible for me to think about California without worry and empathy for those affected by the wildfires in Southern California. My heart goes out to all those suffering from these devastating fires, and I have the utmost respect for all the firefighters, first responders, volunteers, and helpers of all kinds.   

For me, it was specially Sonoma Pinot and Chardonnay that really got this East Coast guy stoked on California wine. Just something about Sonoma hits different. Over the years, I’ve kept tabs on my favorite producers and enjoyed exploring new (to me) ones over the years. A winery I’ve enjoyed a lot over the past few years is Ram’s Gate Winery – who makes complex, delicious, mouthwatering Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. 

Ram's Gate Estate Vineyard. Credit: Ram's Gate Winery

This Sonoma producer proves itself yet again with two new 2021 releases. They hold an estate vineyard in Carneros and source fruit from different sites around Sonoma, and seem to always craft winners. In 2021, Winemaker Joe Nielsen’s Sonoma Coast Series show the concentration and depth of dry conditions with the brightness and levity I love from Sonoma wines. 

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted. 

2021 Ram's Gate Chardonnay Sonoma Coast - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $48
Pretty yellow color. Breezy and bright on the nose with yellow pears, white peaches, drizzled with lime and lemon, and topped with some chalk dust and limestone. The palate is racy and crisp but shows a lovely depth of texture with flavors of rich lemon curd, tangy orange peel, kiwi, and yellow pears. There are waves of flinty minerals and chalk dust, along with honeyed white tea and hints of mint. So fresh and vibrant but deep and complex as well. Sourced mainly from Sebastapol-area fruit, this wine is aged for 11 months in 25% new French oak. (92 points)

2021 Ram's Gate Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $52
Deep ruby color. Gorgeous aromas of black cherries, red and black plums, along with strawberry jam – saucy but fresh with scents of spiced black tea, tobacco, rose hips, and white pepper. The palate sports dusty tannins, deep texture, but such lively acidity, making for a fresh but rich wine. Lovely concentration of fruit (black cherry, raspberry, tangy strawberry) and the fruit is mixed well with tones of mint, rose, violets, spiced tea, some clay, loamy earth. Hints of cedar and clove are blended in expertly. Drinking great now, but no rush at all, as I’d love to see how this develops. Sourced from fruit from Green Valley, Sonoma Coast, Russian River Valley, and Carneros AVAs, and aged 11 months in 25% new French oak. (93 points)

California wines for the Olympics

Paris in April, setting up for the games.

The Summer Olympics kicked off today in France and I am stoked. My family and I look forward to cheering on the athletes during gymnastics, swimming, and – since my daughter and I both follow and love it – climbing.

But I also look forward to watching the best of the best at other events, discovering and following new-to-me sports and the experts who compete in them. I appreciate excellence in all its forms.

I apply that similar attitude to wine, as I’m always looking for new producers, regions, grapes, and getting excited about all sorts of different styles.

In the Spring, my family spent a few days in Paris and saw the preparation for the games underway. We enjoyed all the food, culture, and views, and talked about how we would watch the Olympics and try to recognize all the places we had visited.

So, to celebrate the start of the games, I’m highlighting some American wines because, well, I’m American. But I’m also a Francophile, so I decided to highlight some California wines with something of an Old World, French inspiration. They’re pure California goodness, but some could also make great ringers in blind tastings of their French counterparts.

Cormorant Cellars has delivered some unique wines since they kicked off in 2018. This Sonoma-based producer makes an amazing lees-aged Sauvignon Blanc that I can’t recommend enough, but I was happy to taste through some new-to-me wines for this report. Winemaker Charlie Gilmore is clearly skilled and has some great talent and inspiration. Fans of Mediterranean Vermentino be alert – there’s something really cool here. And Beaujolais fans should really check out their Gamay.

Three Sticks makes phenomenal Chards and Pinots from Sonoma, and the wines in this report speak for themselves. This producer was founded in 2002 by Bill Price and Prema Kerollis, and they own and farm estate vineyards in Sonoma County. The wines are precise, thrilling, age-worthy, and should be on your radar if you like nuanced Sonoma Pinot.

I also have a few voluptuous but balanced Chardonnays from Juggernaut and Crossbarn that would really hit the spot during this late Summer timeframe.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2021 Three Sticks Pinot Noir Gap's Pinnacle Gap's Crown Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $95
Dark ruby color. The nose opens to show a well-arranged display of red plums, black cherries, raspberry, strawberry, with these deeper tones of violets, charcoal, toffee, some earth and coffee grounds tones. The palate combines grippy but fine-grained tannins, zesty acidity, with a core of fresh but vibrant raspberries, black cherries, and plums. All sorts of nuances here, with graphite, dusty earth, black tea, tobacco, sage. So much going on here, and I’d love to bury a few of these for five to eight years plus. A beautiful interpretation of this grape and site. (95 points)

2021 Three Sticks Pinot Noir One Sky Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Mountain
SRP: $85
Deep ruby color. Wow, what a beautiful nose, with pretty strawberry, raspberries, with spice, herbal, and earthy tones (tobacco, dried rose petals, tilled earth, clay, white pepper). Air coaxes out all sorts of exciting nuanced. Juicy and suave on the palate with dusty tannins and lively acidity that keeps it fresh. Flavors of red plums and currants, tangy strawberries and raspberries, and the fruit is backed up with all sorts of earth, paprika, rhubarb, clay, and white pepper. Nuanced, pretty, spicy, complex, elegant, with a long life ahead of it. (93 points)

2023 Cormorant Cellars Vermentino - USA, California, Sierra Foothills, El Dorado County

SRP: $24
Pale lemon color. A pleasantly salty aroma, with lemon, quince, ruby red grapefruit, backed up with scents of basil, limestone dust, and chalk. On the palate this shows delicious yellow pears, lemon zest, pineapple, and green apple sliced, mixed with ocean spray, minerals, shells, white flowers. Crisp and punchy, juicy but balanced, this is an awesome value and a fascinating iteration of this grape. (91 points)

2023 Cormorant Cellars Gamay Noir Zabala Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Arroyo Seco
SRP: $27
Pale ruby color. Aromas of tart cranberries, juicy strawberries, raspberries, tossed with cool tones of rose petals, tobacco, sage, yet stays airy and bright. The palate shows crisp, lip-smacking acidity with a juicy frame and pleasantly dusty tannins. Loving the fruit – cranberry relish, raspberries, strawberry-rhubarb pie. There are a lot of interesting non-fruit elements to enjoy here as well: clay, dried violets, black pepper, tobacco, clove. So fun and fresh but complex and savory as well and even has a Morgon-esque mineral and graphite element on the finish. (92 points)

2021 CrossBarn (Paul Hobbs) Chardonnay - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $30
Light yellow color. Bright and inviting on the nose with chalky, flinty notes, nettle, white and yellow flowers, over top of quince, yellow apples, and some almond and shaved ginger. Smooth and plush on the palate with lively acidity and a balanced frame. Lemons, yellow pears, green apples, the fruit is topped in minerals, seashells, chalk dust, with almond skin, cinnamon, and honeycomb. Juicy but fresh, with a tangy, complex finish. (90 points)

2022 Juggernaut Wine Company Chardonnay - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $20
Bright yellow color. The aromas pop with white peach, kiwi, bruised yellow apple, mixed with honeyed white tea, peanut brittle, with saline and some shells. Racy and tangy on the palate, a surprising oceanic briskness, matched with depth of texture. White peaches, lemon curd, yellow apples, the fruit blends well with tones of ocean spray, limestone, honeyed tea, and some basil, flinty tones. This has a lot of complexity and vibrancy for a wine at this price point. (90 points)

California wines to beat the heat

Me, cooling down in the Blue Ridge Mountains

Apparently, August 4 is National White Wine Day. And considering the seemingly endless heat across most of the country, the timing sure seems right.

It’s 96 and humid where I am in the Mid-Atlantic, and I know it is a lot worse in other regions. I honestly can’t even think about red wine at the moment, so let’s dive into some delicious California white wines.

From a shockingly good $15 Chard to Chalk Hill and Carneros, this is a Chardonnay heavy sampling, but there’s a lot of diversity in here. Chalk Hill delivers three intriguing offerings, and I have a few from well-known names like Sonoma-Cutrer and Ferrari-Carano. If you haven’t heard of Lange Twins or Bouchaine, these two producers make some well-balanced Chardonnays at reasonable price points. Bouchaine’s winemaker Chris Kajani makes more than a dozen Chards, and his skills show.

To top things off, I have two unique white wines from Napa’s Mira Winery. I’ve long been a fan of their reds – the Malbec and Cabernet Franc are exquisite – but these two wines are new to me: a skin-fermented Cabernet Franc (OK, so it’s not technically a “white wine”) and a Sauvignon Gris that’s perfect for high-end summer sipping.

These wines were received as samples. The Chardonnays were tasted single-blind, while the Mira wines were tasted sighted.

2021 Harken Chardonnay Barrel Fermented – USA, California
SRP: $15
Deep yellow color. A ripe nose of lemon curd, yellow apples, and pear butter, with notes of almond, graham cracker, saltines, and some tropical flowers. The palate is juicy and ripe with yellow apples and pears, and medium acidity, which helps it stay bright and balance out the richer tones. Honey, graham cracker, and white tea notes add some fun vibes. There’s some flinty, floral complexity, too. A fun, surprisingly complex value Chardonnay that tastes way more “real” than most Chardonnays in this price point. Aged eight months in 50/50 American/French oak. (88 points)

2022 Chalk Hill Chardonnay Sonoma Coast – USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $20
Light yellow color. Rich pears and yellow apples with almond, honey, graham cracker, with fresher tones of white and yellow flowers, chalk dust. The palate shows a delightful creaminess but refreshing acidity, all balanced nicely. Juicy lemon, yellow apples, creamy pears, along with flinty, seashell vibes, and nuances of almond skin, honeycomb, and peanut brittle. Deep but vibrant, balanced, a delightful Sonoma Coast Chardonnay. (89 points)

2021 Chalk Hill Chardonnay Estate – USA, California, Sonoma County, Chalk Hill
SRP: $52
Rich yellow color. Juicy aromas of white peach, yellow apples, and pear butter, along with inviting tones of cinnamon and almond cake, with notes of honey, dandelion, and white flowers, too. A creamy, rich texture with bright acidity keeps things balanced wonderfully, and I love the flavors of yellow apples and pears, some nectarine. There is a pleasant mix of honey, graham cracker, sea salt, with honeysuckle and some nougat. There’s a tingly, mineral-laden finish. Aged 11 months in 42% new French oak. (90 points)

2021 Chalk Hill Chardonnay Felta – USA, California, Sonoma County, Chalk Hill

SRP: $90
Light yellow color. The nose exudes lemons, pears, green apples, with nuanced tones of sea salt, cinnamon crumb cake, shaved ginger, and mineral water. The palate sports an invitingly creamy texture, balanced with focused acidity, and a rich and juicy appeal with yellow apples, kiwi, and lemon, along with complex tones of honeyed white tea, almond croissant, yellow flowers, and all sorts of mineral and saline nuances. Delicious and precise. All maloactic fermentation, aged 15 months in 73% new French oak. (93 points)

2020 Bouchaine Chardonnay Estate – USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $36
Deep yellow color. The nose exudes ripe yellow plums and pears, mixed with cinnamon, biscuits and honey, some graham cracker, and the richer tones are balanced with these limestone and crushed rock tones. Rich texture but the acidity is crisp and the balance is on point. Yellow apples, lemon curd, orange peel, the fruit is backed up by nuances of graham cracker, peanut shell, honeycomb, honeyed tea. Underneath, there are these flinty, mineral essences that finish clean and add a lot of complexity and enjoyment. (91 points)

2021 Ferrari-Carano Chardonnay Tre Terre – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $45
Medium yellow color. The nose shows a deep but lively mix of creamy pears, orange peels, drizzled with lime, along with honey, almond, some graham cracker, with tones of white flowers and flint. This has a delightfully rich texture, balanced nicely with lively acidity, and juicy, creamy fruit (pears and yellow apples) with some orange peel tossed in. There’s a nice crushed shell and mineral mix underneath that tingles the palate and lasts long on the finish, contrasting well with the honeyed, almond vibes. Delicious, complex, rich but nuanced Russian River Chardonnay, aged 15 months in 2/3 new French oak. (91 points)

2021 Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay Dutton Ranch – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $42
Deep yellow. The nose shows a tropical dessert of yellow pears and lemon curd, with pie crust, nougat, crumb cake, and some helpful doses of salt and chalk. The palate is juicy and fun, has nuanced acidity that keeps things going forward, and solid complexity. Flavors of ripe yellow apples, orange creamsicle, and pineapple mix with tones of buttered biscuits, toasted oak, and almond skin. A deep, suave, creamy style but it stays vibrant and you can’t deny the deliciousness. (89 points)

2021 LangeTwins Chardonnay Merrill Vineyard – USA, California, Central Valley, Clarksburg
SRP: $25
Medium yellow color. An expressive nose of lemon curd, pineapple, ripe peach, along with lots of honey, whipped butter, and subtle talc and mineral vibes. Generous texture, moderate acidity, it has a plush and creamy feel with mango, ripe yellow pear, some green apples. Flavors of whipped honey, ginger snaps, some corn husk, and there’s a cool mix of talc, minerals, and quinine. Interesting flavors and style – fun stuff, quite complex, solid value! Aged 12 months in used oak. (89 points)

2021 Mira Winery Ovum Aureum – USA, California, Napa Valley

SRP: $85
Light yellow color. Aromas are just beautiful and so inviting, with fresh tones of orange peel, guava, lemon zest, along with chalky, limestone, mineral-infused goodness, with flinty, stony vibes and wild herbs and white flowers. The palate has a beautiful textural depth, and brisk acidity, and the balance is impressive. Pure fruit (yellow apples, nectarine, juicy raspberry and red apple). The non-fruit elements are exciting and woven together so well – stony minerals, mountain stream, limestone and chalk dust, almond skin, white flowers. This is rocking now but also has aging potential. Wow. All Sauvignon Gris aged in egg-shaped old oak barrels. (94 points)

2021 Mira Winery Cabernet Franc “Franc Blanc” – USA, California, Napa Valley, Yountville
SRP: $65
Gorgeous pale copper color. So fresh on the nose, with this crunchy white cherry, tangy strawberry, with notes of watermelon rind, spicy white pepper, nettle, basil, and some chalk dust – really exciting. The palate shows gorgeous texture, with racy acidity, and complex, delicious fruit (yellow plum, tart raspberry, yellow apples). There is a complex, intriguing mix of sea salt, minerals, mountain streams, along with nuanced tones of hay, white pepper, basil, there is a lot to parse through. The complexity, mouthfeel, this is Mira doing their thing – I wasn’t aware this wine existed, but it’s a special wine for sure. All Cab Franc whole-cluster pressed. (94 points)

2022 Bouchaine Vin Gris of Pinot Noir Estate Vineyard – USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $29
Light watermelon color. The aromas pop with crunchy red apple, white cherries, bright raspberries, along with white pepper, wildflowers and wild mint. The palate has a salty, punchy appeal, beautiful briskness and tart vibes but solid textural complexity and weight, too. White cherries, wild raspberries, tart red apples, the fruit is blended well with tones of daisies, celery seed, chalk dust, some flinty-mineral essence. Beautiful mouthfeel and finish, a lot of personality and vibrancy. 85% whole-cluster and 15% saignée Pinot Noir. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Wine reviews: California new releases

I’m still on a cloud from a recent trip to California. From rock-hopping, surfing, and bouldering on the Sonoma Coast, to visiting one of my favorite vineyards in the Russian River Valley (Merry Edwards), to mountaineering the high country of Mount Shasta. It was a rich and fulfilling experience. The bountiful wildflower blooms in the river valleys are something I will never forget. I know this winter season has been difficult for so many, and the snow and coming flooding will be problematic. I’m hoping for the best for you all.

But I know that, whatever Mother Nature deals out, from heat and wildfires to massive snowpack and flooding, California winegrowers and vintners are a hearty bunch. They’ll will power through, and make amazing wines.

So, this week, I want to pay respect with a mix of diverse wines from California. No further introductions needed – from known producers to value wines, they speak for themselves. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

White wines and rosés

2020 Ram’s Gate Chardonnay Estate – USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $76
Medium yellow color. A complex aromatic display that bounces between the richer/deeper tones (yellow apples, lemon pie, graham cracker, nougat) and bright elements (chalk dust, honeysuckle, saline), and it works so well. The palate shows a pleasant creaminess with racy acidity on a medium-bodied frame. Flavors of lemon, quince, and key lime pie, mixed with saline, minerals, crushed seashells, along with nuanced tones of honey, saltine crackers, and bread dough. Racy and vibrant throughout, a Carneros Chardonnay that might fool some for Old World in a blind tasting. (91 points)

2021 Frank Family Vineyards Chardonnay – USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $40
Yellow apple skin color. The palate shows juicy yellow pears and apples, topped with honeyed white tea, almond skin, cinnamon crumb cake, but also tones of white flowers and crushed shells. Crisp acidity frames this wine well, and it has a lot of deep texture but never feels weighty. The white peach and yellow pear fruit is vibrant, and blends well with tones of honey, walnut, white tea, with some salty-mineral vibes as well. A great all-around Carneros Chardonnay that should please almost any palate. Aged nine months in 1/3 new French oak. (90 points)

2021 Ron Rubin Chardonnay Pam’s Un-Oaked – USA, California
SRP: $16
Ripe yellow color. Juicy nose of yellow apples, honey, glazed pear, nougat, with some cinnamon and honeycomb. Creamy but fresh on the palate, a fun appeal with flavors of yellow apples and pears, whipped honey and some nutshell tones. Notes of hay and white flowers add complexity to this medium-bodied wine with medium-low acidity. Nice value for a creamy, fun style. (85 points)

2022 Ehlers Estate Sauvignon Blanc – USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena
SRP: $38
Pale lemon color. The nose sports a ripe but nuanced mix of guava, pineapple, limes, topped in chalk and sliced cucumber, with floral and nettle nuances – lovely. The palate is fun and inviting but balanced and complex. Crisp acidity on a medium-bodied frame with beautiful depth of texture. Kiwi, guava, and lemon fruit blend well with racy minerals, white and yellow flowers, and a springy, spritely appeal throughout. Such personality, precision, and value – a Napa Sauv Blanc worth seeking out for sure. (92 points)

2022 Ehlers Estate Sylviane Rosé – USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena
SRP: $38
Deep watermelon color. The nose is so crisp and perfumed, with a spring meadow packed with flowers, along with chalk dust, watermelon rind, wild raspberries, and minty-dandelion tones – wow! Deep but crunchy texture on the palate, with flavors of pomegranate, white cherries, watermelon. The complexities dance nicely, with floral, herbs, mint, minerals. An impressive highly pleasing pink with a lot of nuances to parse through – or just chill and crush a glass. 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, with 14% Cab Franc and 5% Malbec. (91 points)

Red wines

2021 Balverne Pinot Noir Forever Wild – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $45
Bright ruby color. The nose is a red-fruited compote of cherries, raspberries, and tangy strawberries, laced with tones of dried rose petals, dusty earth, warm clay, nuances of white pepper and rhubarb. The palate shows delightful tannins and crisp acidity that balance wonderfully off each other. Flavors of juicy strawberries and tangy red cherries, laced with notes of rhubarb, tobacco, with a lot of pretty, mineral vibes and undertones. A generous but precise interpretation that is delicious now but will age well over the coming years as well. (92 points)

2020 Ram’s Gate Pinot Noir Estate – USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $85
Vibrant ruby color. The nose is a floral, red-fruited, delightful blend of cherries, raspberries, rhubarb, rose petals, with tomato leaf and all sorts of herbal nuances. The palate is a sleek but deep affair with crisp acidity and dusty tannins, and plenty of tangy raspberry and black cherry fruit. Nuances of tobacco, white pepper, warm clay, rhubarb, loamy earth – there’s a lot to coax out with air and swirling. Delightful now, but I’d love to see this in three to five years with a duck dish. Expressive, attractive Pinot, per usual from Ram’s Gate. (93 points)

2021 Frank Family Vineyards Pinot Noir – USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $40
Medium ruby color. Ooh, such an inviting nose of raspberries and juicy black cherries, along with rhubarb, cola, dried roses, even some minty-tobacco notes – a lot blended together really well. Ripe and juicy on the palate, with raspberry jam and tang black cherries, over suave tannins and a lively acidity that keeps things going forward. Complex tones of roasted chestnut, tobacco, lavender, dried roses. This is easy-drinking and fun but shows serious complexity and poise as well. Such value here, and an impressively “real” Pinot Noir for this price point. (91 points)

2021 Ron Rubin Cabernet Sauvignon Pam’s Un-Oaked – USA, California
SRP: $16
Ripe ruby color. A pleasant burst of raspberries and strawberries on the nose, along with rose petals, some clove, mint, cola, and milk chocolate. On the palate, this sports soft tannins, medium-low acidity, and a fun, jammy appeal of raspberries and red plums. Ripe and fun with floral tones and coffee, some subtle earth and roasted chestnut. Smooth, crowd-pleasing, accessible Cabernet at a solid price. (86 points)

2019 Balverne Cabernet Sauvignon Forever Wild – USA, California, Sonoma County, Chalk Hill
SRP: $48
Vibrant purple color. Beautiful concentration on the nose, it exudes an inviting mix of deep plums, currants, with cocoa, coffee, and earthy tones of roasted red bell pepper and mint. The palate shows a smooth and velvety appeal, with a deep textural feel and plenty of dusty, mineral vibes, which accent the dark currant and black cherry fruit. Notes of earth, savory spices, black tea, anise, and charcoal add complexity. This is a great example of the nuance and vibrancy that can be achieved with Chalk Hill Cabernet, and I’d love to revisit this in a few years. Seek out! Includes 9% Petit Verdot, 9% Malbec, 3% Cabernet Franc. (92 points)

2018 Calla Lily Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Ultimate Red – USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $65
Deep purple color. The nose shows gorgeous currants, black cherries, and cassis, with evocative notes of pepper, sage, menthol, mint, and a host of earthy, gravelly, stony aromas that need time so show their full effect. The palate shows tart, welcome acidity, framing the grippy tannins well, and sporting a dark core of currants, plums, and black cherries. Such freshness in the fruit, and the complexities abound: mint, charcoal, rocky earth, pencil shavings, black pepper, violet potpourri. This will benefit from age, but the young expressiveness is impressive. A 2019 Napa classic that drinks like a wine two or three times its price. Cabernet Sauvignon with Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec. (93+ points)

2018 Calla Lily Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Audax – USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $120
Vibrant purple color. Such an inviting nose, with dark, tangy currants and plums, plenty of savory nuances (tar, tobacco, pepper) with herbal earthy tones (tobacco, eucalyptus, red pepper flakes) – a lot of fun to swirl and sniff. The palate is framed with fresh acidity and grippy tannins that show the more refined edges. The fruit is a tangy, lovely compote of black cherries and currants, and mixes well with tones of anise, black pepper, rose petals. Plenty of earthy, stony, Napa goodness, and the nuances of cocoa and oak and woven in expertly. Open and expressive now (I’d decant for sure), but holding off for five to seven will result in an awesome experience. Cabernet with dabs of Petit Verdot and Merlot. (94 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Thrilling Pinot and Chardonnay from Merry Edwards & Alma Fria

This week, I’m highlighting two Sonoma County producers who bring me joy. I, for one, could use a bit of joy these days. I’ve been a fan of both of these producers for a while now, and I was excited to revisit them through the new releases. While tasting, I was comforted but just how reliably delicious and honest these wines are.

Merry Edwards has always had my respect, from Merry’s groundbreaking spot in Sonoma wine history, to the fact that the wines continue to deliver, vintage-in, vintage-out. With winemaker Heidi von der Mehden at the helm, this slew of 2019 Pinot Noirs continues the winery’s strong legacy.

I’ve been following Alma Fria since their 2013 vintage, and found these wines to be consistently exciting. If you’re a fan of lower alcohol Pinots and Chardonnays, with more citrus on the Chard side and tangy red fruit on the Pinot side, you should really check these out. The single-vineyard Pinots, like the Doña Margarita Vineyard near Freestone and the Holtermann Vineyard near Annapolis, deserve some cellar time, or plenty of air to strut their stuff. Winemaker Carroll Kemp really rocks it with the entry-level Plural wines, which have some sourced fruit and serve as are a great introduction to the producer’s style. They’re honestly some of the most delicious and bang-for-the-buck Pinots and Chards I find from California.

These wines were received as samples, and the Merry Edwards Pinot Noirs were tasted single-blind, while the others were tasted sighted.

2018 Alma Fría Chardonnay Plural - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $35
Light yellow color. The aromas pop with lemon curd, orange peel, and a vibrant mix of sea salt, hay, flinty and mineral elements, and some almond skin and honey. On the palate, this is crisp and nervy with lovely texture, a perfect amount of salinity and oyster shell elements that carries this wine. Lemons for days with some apricot and white peach, tossed together with chalk dust, honeyed tea, such verve and depth here, especially when you consider the price. Complex and delicious stuff here, a Chardonnay for Chenin fans. (93 points)

2018 Alma Fría Chardonnay Campbell Ranch Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $50
Medium yellow color. Aromas are fresh and citrusy, with lemon curd and sliced pineapple mixed with these chalky, yellow floral tones. Pristine and fresh on the palate, with a nice balance between textural depth and salty, brisk vibes. Lemons and kiwi blend well with nuances of salted pecan, honey, minerals and chalk dusty. Pure, vibrant, nuanced Sonoma Coast Chardonnay here. (93 points)

2018 Alma Fría Pinot Noir Plural - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $40
Medium ruby color. Vibrant aromas of cherries, strawberries and red plums, along with rose petals, warm clay, some oregano and mint. Medium-bodied, silky tannins on the palate, with lively acidity. Ripe but fresh tones of strawberries, McIntosh apple and wild raspberries, tossed together with notes of clove, cinnamon, rose petals. Nice spicy tones round out the finish. Such a balanced and nuanced wine, with complexity that rocks at this price point. (92 points)

2018 Alma Fría Pinot Noir Holtermann Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $70
Bright ruby color. Such enticing aromas, spicy, airy, elegant, with raspberries and red apple peel, along with rhubarb, white pepper, tobacco and rose hips. On the palate, this Pinot is so silky and elegant, with a medium-bodied frame and crisp, focused acidity. Plush but tangy fruit (raspberries, strawberries, cherry), topped in complexities of rhubarb, white pepper, tobacco. With air these underlying notes of wet clay, mushroom and potting soil really start to shine. This is complex, nuanced, vibrant stuff. This vineyard is home to some very special grapes, and Alma Fria makes a beauty of a wine from them. (94 points)

2018 Alma Fría Pinot Noir Doña Margarita Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $70
Bright ruby color. Such an airy, floral, inviting display on the nose, with rose petals, rhubarb, some oregano and white pepper, over top of raspberries, pomegranate and red apple. Expressive and invigorating, which transitions onto the palate, which is crisp and vibrant with dusty tannins. Raspberries and tangy red plum fruit blends well with complex notes of dried roses, white pepper, warm desert rocks and oregano. This stuff is balanced and age-worthy, or give it plenty of air and watch it evolve and pop. (94 points)

2019 Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $45
Pale lemon color. Gorgeous fruit on the nose (grapefruit, kiwi, green apple), topped in chalk dust, fresh mountain stream, and complex elements of honeysuckle, mint and sage. Zippy acidity frames the wine so well, balanced with deep texture, and plenty of salty, minerals, mountain stream tones. The lime, kiwi and ruby red grapefruit is juicy but tangy, and it all works well over these floral perfume, white pepper, cucumber slices, honey and chalk dust. I’ve tasted this wine a lot over the years, and there’s something about this vintage. Phenomenal stuff. This spends four months on the lees and is aged in French oak, 18% new. (95 points)

2019 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $60
Medium ruby color. So fresh and juicy on the nose with red plums and wild raspberry, over top of rhubarb, cola, violets, some nuanced cedar and sarsaparilla. Full but fresh with smooth tannins, a pleasantly chewy but vibrant feel with black cherries and raspberry jam fruit. Violets, rhubarb, white pepper, along with some earthy, dusty tones and herbal tea, add complexity to this juicy, fun Pinot. Aged nine months in 55% new French oak. (91 points)

2019 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Coopersmith Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $73
Deep ruby color. On the nose, this shows a nice mix of deep black cherries, ripe summer plums, cranberry relish, along with light roast coffee and herbal tea component, with savory spices mixed in, too. Medium/full-bodied with smooth tannins and vibrant, fresh acidity. Tangy blackberries, plums and cherries, darker, deeper fruit, but it maintains a tart edge. Roasted chestnut, toffee, violets, cigar box and some mineral undertones elevate the finish. Definitely one to cellar for at least a few years. Aged 10 months in 68% new French oak. (92 points)

2019 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Klopp Ranch - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $73
A solid core of ruby. The aromas are so fresh, with ripe cherries, pomegranate, strawberry, backed up by pepper, roses, warm clay, rhubarb, and a lot of floral depth with air. On the palate, this is silky but structured, with zesty acid, great balance, and a deep but tangy mix of cherry, pomegranate and raspberry fruit. Elements of thyme, pepper, dried rose petals, clove, dusty earth. The mouthfeel is fantastic, but this needs at least a few years to show its best. Aged nine months in 69% new French oak. (94 points)

2019 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Georganne Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $70
Light ruby color. A bright and elegant display on the nose of raspberries and red apple peel, rose petals, violets, with some cola, herbal tea and light roast coffee. Velvety, fresh and crisp on the palate, with delightful balance. The raspberry and chilled cherry fruit is delicious and fresh, mixed with notes of oregano, black tea, some clay and mushroom tones. Really exciting stuff that should do well with a few years in the cellar. Aged 10 months in 54% new French oak. (93 points)

2019 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Olivet Lane Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $80
Deep ruby color. A warm aromatic compote of raspberries, cherries and cranberry relish, along with notes of warm clay, violets, some wild herbs and creosote tones – really nice. Full-bodied, solid structure but rounded tannic edges, deep but balanced with vibrant acidity. Suave plum, strawberry and cherry fruit play well off these notes of sage, paprika, pepper – a ton going on here. Broth, mushroom tones need time to come out. This needs time, but it is so, so good. Aged nine months in 83% new French oak. (94 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Wine Reviews: Lots of California New Releases

This week I’m back with another roundup of wines from California, including some new-to-me producers, and some I’ve known and loved for many years.

In the latter category, Smith Madrone’s new Chardonnay and Cab are true to their roots, delivering complex, intriguing, delicious Spring Mountain wines whose price points still baffle me.

Louis Martini’s iconic Monte Rosso vineyard, and their Lot 1 Cabernet, are the type of wines I’d want to cellar or enjoy some cold evening this winter.

St. Helena’s Battuello comes through with some interesting offerings from their estate vineyards, which dates back five generations, when Matteo Battuello established it in 1909. The two Valdiguiés that are so delicious, and their Petit Verdot is a stunner.

A delicious, screaming value of a Grenache Blanc and some Sauvignon Blancs round out this report. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

Whites and Rosés

2019 Rombauer Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc - USA, California
SRP: $24
Light yellow color. Aromas boast lemon, apricot, green apples, with some green onion, mint and honeysuckle as well. Fleshy texture on the palate, nice creaminess with racy acidity, well-focused. A fruit salad of ruby red grapefruit, lemon slices, white peach, with some chalky, rocky, tones. Notes of honeysuckle, mint and sea salt. Juicy and fun but expressive and fresh as well. 64% Napa fruit, the rest from Sonoma, fermented mostly in stainless steel with some old French oak and concrete. (89 points)

2019 Stonestreet Sauvignon Blanc Cougar Ridge - USA, California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley
SRP: $35
Light yellow color. Aromas of grapefruit, lemon and papaya with mountain stream, whipped honey and white flowers. Crisp but creamy on the palate with a stony, bright feel that balances well with juicy, fleshy texture, but it stays balanced throughout. Yellow plums, papaya, lime, mixed with chalk, mineral undertones and creamy, honeyed elements. A lot going on here, sort of like a bunch of different SB styles rolled into one, and it is done really well. (91 points)

2018 La Pelle Sauvignon Blanc - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $45
Pale lemon color. Crunchy, inviting aromas of green and yellow apples, topped in lemongrass, mint, and a good dose of sea salt. Precision guides the palate; this is crisp, crunchy, with slight creamy tones and solid depth. Lemon, green apple and kiwi fruit blends well with saline, chalk, white floral tones. Lovely depth, minerality, focus. No gimmicks here, just bright, clear, complex, beautiful Napa Sauvignon Blanc. (92 points)

2018 Priest Ranch Grenache Blanc - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $22
A fascinating pale copper color. So bright on the nose, with this burst of lime, kiwi and green apple, met with sliced cucumber, flower stems, oyster shells and brine, chalk dust. Gorgeous texture on the palate, lush but precise, with focused acidity on a medium/full-bodied frame. Crunchy green apples, limes, kiwi and orange peel – such crisp and delicious fruit. Mouthwatering and vibrant, with notes of saline, crushed shells, floral perfume, white tea. This is rocking, especially if you’ve tired of heavier California white Rhone wines. From a 1,250-foot elevation vineyard all stainless steel, native yeasts and eight months of lees aging. For $22? Absurd. (91 points)

2018 Chalone Vineyard Chardonnay - USA, California, Central Coast, Chalone
SRP: $30
Medium yellow color. Delightful nose of lemon curd, orange peel, crunchy apricot, along with notes of peanut shell, white tea, chalk dust, perfume and honey. On the palate, this shows a plump but tangy fruit (nectarine, lemon, apricot) on a frame of precise, focused acidity. Pretty notes of honey, almond skin, hay and ginger complement the stony mineral and sea salt notes. Pure, vibrant, complex – it really doesn’t get much better for a California Chardonnay at this price point. (89 points)

2018 Ram's Gate Chardonnay - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $46
Medium yellow with a buttery, honeyed nose, along with papaya, lemon curd, yellow apples, with some dandelion and honeysuckle. Plush and juicy on the palate, medium acidity, the fruit shows a mix of yellow apples, pineapple, lemon bars, mixed with components of honey, graham cracker, but also expressive chalky, river rock tones. Fun stuff, punchy, vibrant style that shows solid complexity, too. 25% maloactic fermentation, aged 10 months in 25% new French oak. (89 points)

2018 Ram's Gate Chardonnay El Diablo Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $70
Rich yellow color. Inviting nose of yellow apples, baked plums, honeycomb, graham crackers, walnut shell, also notes of hay and chalk. Plush texture on the palate, plump but lovely freshness, with golden apples, apricot and pear fruit. Notes of honey, nougat, candied ginger mix with underlying mineral and seashell notes. Lush but complex and very pretty. 38% maloactic fermentation, aged 11 months in 35% new French oak. (91 points)

2017 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $40
Deep yellow color. Inviting, complex aromas of apple butter, lemon curd, grapefruit zesty, topped in notes of honey, graham cracker, sea salt and ginger. Harmonious, complex nose for sure. Rich texture on the palate, the creaminess is matched by this racy, salty aesthetic. Lemon curd, yellow apple and apricot fruit meld well with white tea, graham cracker and ginger, along with these stony, mineral, mountain stream elements. Consistently, such an overperforming Chardonnay that screams value, and the 2017 is a really expressive, vibrant iteration. Aged 10 months in 85% new French oak. (94 points)

2018 Gary Farrell Chardonnay Russian River Selection - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $35
Deep yellow color. Plump aromas of yellow apples and pears, topped in almond, peanut skin, honey, with some chalk dust and floral perfume. Juicy and ripe but the acidity is delightful and precise, framing the wine well and keeping it fresh, while the waves of yellow apple and lemon curd fruit roll in. Has deep, nutty, graham cracker, honeyed tones, but also fresh elements of mountain stream and yellow flowers. Lots of precision and complexity here for the price. Aged eight months in 30% new French oak. (90 points)

2019 Notre Vue Chardonnay Musqué - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $36
Light yellow color. The nose starts with a kick of mint and sliced cucumber, with green apples, lemon and kiwi, and lots of floral tones. Creamy texture meets crisp acidity on the palate, with green apples, white peaches and limes. Floral and bright but lovely texture, and notes of chalk, celery seed, sliced cucumber. Bright and inviting, this rides a nice line, a lighter, nuanced style. (89 points)

2019 Notre Vue GSM Rosé - USA, California, Sonoma County, Chalk Hill
SRP: $29
Vibrant salmon color. Aromas of hay, honeysuckle, wildflowers and mint on top of gushing peach and honeydew fruit – so inviting. Plush texture meets rushing acidity on the palate, really well-balanced with chunks of melon and peach. Complex notes of cut flower stems, sea salt, punchy but also crisp and bright throughout. A spicy, inviting, floral finish – very impressive. (90 points)

2019 Battuello Vineyards Valdiguié Rosé - USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena
SRP: $28
Juicy strawberry color. The nose shows raspberries, white cherries, red apple, watermelon rind, along with rhubarb and celery seed. Juicy and ripe on the palate, but it shows crisp and focused acidity, along with a crushable, delicious feel. Mint, flinty, white pepper and magnolia tones add complexity. Fun and delicious but shows solid complexity and depth. (90 points)

Reds

2018 Battuello Vineyards Valdiguié - USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena
SRP: $45
Vibrant purple color. Fruity, fun but exciting aromas of cherries, plums, violets, some cinnamon and earth tones. Juicy and smooth on the palate, a velvety/light tannic feel mixes with vibrant acidity. Juicy red cherries and wild blackberries mix with elements of violets, pepper, anise, also some graphite, milk chocolate and coffee. This is a fun but complex and exotic Valdiguié worth seeking out. (91 points)

2017 Battuello Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena
SRP: $90
Deep purple color. Saucy, deep aromas with plums, jammy blackberries, with roasted coffee, vanilla, anise, mocha, deep, sweet earth. Full-bodied, rich with chewy tannins and moderate acidity. Plummy, saucy, deep blueberries and sweet blackberries. Notes of mocha, vanilla, charcoal and clove add complexity. A big but charming Cab that has complexities to uncover in the decanter or a few years in the cellar. (89 points)

2018 Battuello Vineyards Petit Verdot Battuello Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena

SRP: $70
Dark purple color. The nose is deep and saucy with blackberries and roasted fig, lots of graphite, smoky charcoal, black pepper, with violets and clove. Full-bodied on the palate with solid, grippy tannins but the acidity is vibrant and keeps the wine balanced. Dark plums, blackberries and roasted figs (rich but vibrant fruit) mixed with complex elements of rocky earth, anise, black pepper, with nuanced mocha and caramel tones. Complex, delicious, this is one to age or crack around a campfire with grilled steaks. (91 points)

2018 Banshee Pinot Noir - USA, California, Sonoma County
SRP: $28
Deep ruby color. Aromas of jammy cherries, cool, chilled blackberry, along with cola, roses, fallen leaves and potting soil – quite a bit going on here. Juicy and fresh on the palate, this is a medium-bodied Pinot with smooth tannins and fresh acidity. Red and black cherry fruit, raspberry jam, topped in cola, light roast coffee, roses and clove, even some leathery, minty, earthy accents. Yummy but crisp, accessible and fan-friendly but shows complexity and value as well. (88 points)

2016 Louis M. Martini Cabernet Sauvignon Monte Rosso Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley
SRP: $125
Light purple color. Gorgeous, expressive, vibrant aromas of anise, tobacco, violets, warm clay and cocoa, over top of saucy plums and black cherries. Full-bodied on the palate with earthy, dusty tannins, showing grip but accessibility, with moderating acidity – it’s big but balanced really well. Suave, complex fruit (currants, black cherries and plums) mix with notes of tobacco, mint, dark chocolate, graphite, minerals, violets. Shows structure, freshness and aging potential, but beautiful already. It’s great to see this wine continue to excel. All Monte Rosso fruit, includes 5% Cabernet Franc, 2% Malbec, aged 26 months in a mix of French oak (75% new) and American oak (19% new). (94 points)

2016 Louis M. Martini Cabernet Sauvignon Lot No. 1 - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $250
Vibrant purple color. Suave, deep aromas of blackberries, black currants, roasted fig, laced with tobacco, leather, pencil shavings, cocoa – takes time and air to really bring out the aromatic complexities, but there’s a ton in here. Full-bodied, solid tannins for aging but no harsh edges, the acidity is lovely and fresh. A deep, tangy core of black cherries, red and black currants, plum skins, mixed with delicious elements of tobacco, leather, cigar shop, some black pepper and clay. Notes of stony, mineral and graphite blend with cocoa and vanilla. Complex, age-worthy but vibrant, age this for five to 10 years or give it a solid decant. 100% Cabernet aged 21 months in 93% new French oak. (94 points)

2016 Smith-Madrone Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $58
Medium purple color. Aromas show tart but deep currants and black cherries, with lots of earthy, spicy complexity (tobacco, paved road, warm clay, graphite) with dark chocolate and espresso notes. Full but nuanced on the palate, well-built, grippy but refined tannins support juicy, tart red and black currant, and the balance between all these elements is lovely. Notes of leather, black pepper, tobacco leaf, mint, along with charcoal, vanilla and cedar nuances. Delicious, pretty, packs complexity and nuance. Long life ahead for this beautiful Cab. Includes a combined 10% Merlot and Cabernet Franc, this is aged 19 months in 45% new French oak. (93 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Sonoma Wines from Knights Bridge

This week, I’m visiting some wines from Sonoma’s Knights Valley.

Here, in the northeast corner of Sonoma, where Napa and Sonoma meet at the base of Mount Saint Helena, the climate is the warm and the soils rocky.

I recently received a group of wines from Knights Bridge from this area. This winery was formed in 2006, and the wines are made by Douglas Daneilak, who has been with Knights Bridge since the beginning. Their diverse mix of Sauvignon Blancs and Chardonnays offers an interesting way to analyze what this region has to offer. This was my first time tasting wines from this producer, and I found a fascinating mix of complex white wines (and a few reds) worth seeking out.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2018 Knights Bridge Sauvignon Blanc KB Estate - USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
SRP: $30
Medium yellow color. Bright and stony on the nose with apricot, grapefruit, with lemongrass, basil and chalk dust. Plump texture on the palate with crisp acidity, balancing it well. Apricot, green apple, kiwi and orange peel, mixed with honeysuckle, daisies, along with notes of river rocks and minerals. Vibrant, lively, nuanced feel. (88 points)

2019 Knights Bridge Sauvignon Blanc Fairview - USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
SRP: $70
Pale yellow color. Aromas show lemons, apricot and white peach, topped in nettle, honeysuckle, with some cream, whipped butter and sea salt. Creamy texture on the palate, fleshy but vibrant with a bright, crunchy feel, and delicious yellow apple, apricot and lemon fruit. Steel, floral, perfumed and mineral tones contrast nicely with these cinnamon, vanilla and white tea elements. Rich but complex and nuanced. (91 points)

2019 Knights Bridge Sauvignon Blanc Pont de Chevalier - USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
SRP: $40
Medium yellow. Rich and deep on the nose, with a tropical blast of papaya, green melons, topped in honey, whipped cream, white tea and vanilla candle. Full and creamy on the palate with rich texture, but medium acidity keeps it moderately fresh. Papaya, white peach and cantaloupe fruit mix with lemon crème, vanilla and cinnamon, subtle white pepper and white tea tones. A Chardonnay-esque Sauvignon Blanc, but it’s well done. (88 points)

2018 Knights Bridge Chardonnay KB Estate Unoaked - USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
SRP: $30
Light yellow color. Aromas of green apples, lemon, topped in mint, yellow flowers, hay and honeysuckle. Crisp and bright on the palate with green apples, pineapple, lemon and guava. Accents of honeysuckle, daisies and dandelion add a nice touch. Ripe but fresh and steely. Nicely done, seafood-friendly stuff that stays fresh and inviting. (87 points)

2018 Knights Bridge Chardonnay KB Estate - USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
SRP: $40
Deep yellow color. Aromas of yellow apples, lemon bars, topped in salted almonds and pecans, with graham cracker and chalk tones. On the palate, this shows chunks of yellow plums, yellow apples, lemon curd and green melon. Creamy but nuanced, moderate acidity, has a subtly salty and chalky feel to the richer elements of nutshells and whipped honey. Showing some balance and nuance, though. (88 points)

2018 Knights Bridge Chardonnay East Block - USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
SRP: $75
Light gold color. Creamy, warm, inviting aromas of yellow apples, apricot and orange marmalade, with peanut brittle, hay and white flowers. Full and creamy on the palate, but nice acidity keeps it from being heavy. Delicious fruit (creamy yellow apples, orange marmalade) mixes well with graham cracker, almond butter, creamy, waxy tones, topped in some white flowers and notes of sea salt. Lush, creamy, but also very pretty. (89 points)

2018 Knights Bridge Chardonnay West Block - USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
SRP: $85
Light yellow color. Aromas of lemon curd, baked apple, topped in cinnamon crumb and almond cake, with honey, graham cracker, also some sea salt and chalk. Plump and rich and creamy on the palate with moderate acidity. Flavors of lemon bars, yellow apples, mixed with whipped butter, mixed nuts, hay and shaved ginger. Deep, delicious, rich, yet shows nuances and complexity that keep it interesting. (90 points)

2018 Knights Bridge Chardonnay Pont de Chevalier - USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
SRP: $50
Rich yellow color. Bold aromas of graham cracker, almond cake, whipped honey and nougat, with baked apples, yellow plums and orange marmalade. Plush, waxy texture, rich and inviting, with medium-low acidity. Juicy yellow apples, baked pears, lemon bars and orange marmalade, the fruit is mixed with cinnamon crumb cake, vanilla crème, peanut brittle. Subtle chalk and white floral tones. Rich and boastful but it is undeniably delicious and sports solid complexity if you like this style. (89 points)

2016 Knights Bridge Cabernet Sauvignon KB Estate ­­- USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
SRP: $60
Deep purple color. Nose shows smoky earth, dark chocolate, cedar and roasted chestnut over top deep currant and blackberry fruit. Plush texture on the palate, with surprisingly vibrant acidity, on a chewy-textured frame with smooth tannins. Juicy plums, red and black currants, smooth, refined fruit with notes of smoky earth, graphite, anise and dark chocolate adding complexity. Violets and pencil lead on the finish, this is a deep but refreshing Cabernet showing very well at the moment but should show even better in a few years. (90 points)

2016 Knights Bridge Red Blend KB Estate - USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
SRP: $50 

Deep purple color. Aromas of plums, saucy cherries with smoky earth, grilled herbs and vanilla bean. Full-bodied with velvety tannins, some medium acidity with flavors of saucy plums and currants. Notes of tilled soil, black pepper, roasted bell pepper and grilled herbs really jive well with the deep yet silky fruit and feel. Juicy, vibrant and lush, this should open nicely in a few years. Petit Verdot, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

The Timeless Sonoma Wines of Merry Edwards

Merry Edwards is an icon in California winemaking. She has a long history of blazing trails and making exceptional wine, from her days in the mid-70s working at Mount Eden, to becoming founding winemaker at Matanzas Creek in 1977, to creating her own consulting business and eventually her own eponymous wine brand in the 90s. Her well-deserved accolades are too many to list.

I’ve visited the Sonoma County winery several over the years, always tying it in with a visit to Joseph Swan, whose founder mentored Merry in the early days. Merry’s well-known Sauvignon Blanc has always excited me, but the single-vineyard Pinots and Chardonnay are what have kept me coming back to these wines year after year.

There have been some recent changes at Merry Edwards Winery. In 2018, Merry announced Heidi von der Mehden (who joined in 2015 as associate winemaker) would succeed her as winemaker, the first time anyone else held that position. Last year, the French firm Maison Louis Roederer purchased the winery. Despite these changes, I’m hoping the wines in the glass stay the same – delicious, exciting, memorable interpretations of their place. After tasting a few of their new releases, that sure seems to be the case.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2017 Merry Edwards Chardonnay Olivet Lane – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $72
Rich yellow color. Aromas of juicy yellow apple, apricot, lemon bars, with rich notes of hazelnut meeting chalky, oyster shell notes. On the palate, this is lush and creamy but sports vibrant acidity and a zippy, stony, chalky presence. Apricot, green apple, key lime pie, complex, harmonious fruit mixing with notes of almond, caramel, honey and sea salt. Pure, vibrant, delicious, I’d love to see this in three to five years. (92 points)

2018 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir – USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $48
Ripe dark cherry color. Really aromatic, with black cherry preserves, raspberry jam, with rose petals, clove, cola, warm clay. Medium+ bodied, fresh acidity, silky tannins, it has a ripe but crisp feel throughout. Black cherries and raspberries mix with cranberry jam, spiced tea, clove and earth. This is a fresh, complex, delicious Pinot that covers a lot of different bases. (91 points)

2018 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $55
Deep ruby color. Smells of juicy cherries, red plums, red licorice, cola, with earth and violets. Chewy feel on a medium/full-bodied palate with zippy acidity, which balances the mouthfeel nicely. Saucy plums, raspberries, strawberry jam, along with notes of cola, violets, coffee, potpourri. Delicious but vibrant, too. Classic Russian River goodness. (91 points)

2018 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Klopp Ranch – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $66
Light purple color. The nose boasts black cherries, raspberries, with cola, sweet violets, tilled soil, rhubarb and mint leaves. Full and suave on the palate with velvety tannins and medium acidity, this sports pretty balance and juicy black cherries, plums and blood orange. Complex notes of chestnut, clove, clay, earth, with cola and vanilla tones. Deep, rich, yet vibrant, this will do well with a few years of age. (92 points)

2018 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Olivet Lane Vineyard – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $72
Medium ruby color. Vibrant, deep aromas with raspberry, bright cherry, fresh strawberries, with complex elements of clove, rose petals, pine forest. On the palate, this is crisp and elegant on a medium/full-bodied frame with velvety but structured tannins – the balance is pristine. Delicious cherries, pomegranate, plum, raspberry fruit, tangy but deep. Complex elements of pine sap, crunchy leaves, tobacco, bay leaf, rose petals, just all sorts of things going on. Pure, delicious, give this air or five years of age and listen to it sing. (93 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Black Kite Delivers Delicious California Pinot & Chardonnay

This week, I’m highlighting a California Pinot producer that I’ve enjoyed over the years: Black Kite Cellars.

Based in Mendocino’s Pinot capital of Anderson Valley, Black Kite produces a range of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from single vineyards in the Anderson Valley, Santa Lucia Highlands and Sonoma. Started in 2003, co-founders Rebecca and Tom Birdsall were inspired by a bike trip through Burgundy. And Rebecaa’s parents had purchased a plot of land near the Navarro River in Anderson Valley in 1995, which would become home to their estate vineyards. The wines are made by Jeff Gaffner, who worked at Chateau St. Jean and Arrowood.

The Pinots show a juicy, fruity, but floral style, each with unique signatures of it’s vineyard. The Chardonnays are mouthwatering and delicious, treated the same way in the cellar, spending 16 months in 1/3 new French oak. There’s a lot of nuance and complexity in these wines, and they’re worth exploring if you like California Pinot and Chardonnay.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2017 Black Kite Chardonnay Gap's Crown Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $62

Deep yellow color. Aromas of honey, ginger, with lemon zest, meringue, orange peel, apricot, sea salt, dandelion – all sorts of awesome things going on, here. Medium-bodied on the palate with a crisp, nervy, racy aesthetic that hits target. Plush apricot, lemon curd, orange peel and kiwi, delicious fruit, mixed with complex stony, mountain stream, mineral and limestone. Deep but brisk, age-worthy but open for business. This wine leaves me salivating. So, so good. (93 point)

2017 Black Kite Chardonnay Soberanes Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands

SRP: $48

Deep yellow color. The nose gushes with lime, papaya, topped in honey, cinnamon crumb cake, with sea salt and slate notes. Full-bodied but not heavy on the palate, creamy but bright, this is well-balanced and bright. Lime, kiwi, yellow apple fruit, open and expressive, but still brisk, with notes of honey, raw almond and gingerbread combining with oyster shell, saline and flinty tones. It’s all mixed together quite nicely. Very pretty Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay. (90 points)

2017 Black Kite Chardonnay Sierra Mar Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands

SRP: $48

Medium yellow color. Bright aromas of peaches, lemon curd, yellow apples, with honey butter, shaved ginger, peanut husk. Plush texture on the palate, but the wine is medium-bodied and shows vibrant acidity. Yellow apples and apricot, lemon bars, the fruit mixes with ginger and peanut brittle, but there are also these chalky, mineral, oyster shell undertones that keep the wine zesty and alive. Pretty, well-balanced, delicious stuff. (91 points)

Pinot Noir

2017 Black Kite Pinot Noir Gap's Crown Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SR

P: $62

Aromas of dark cherries, red currants, with rose petals, black tea, clay, earth, tar. Full-bodied, medium acidity, with saucy black cherries, spiced cranberry jam, accented with spiced black tea, coffee, roasted chestnut, clove. A bold, darker style, but delicious, deep but still well-balanced. Aged 17 months in ½ new French oak, 14.8% alcohol. The fruit is sourced from 23 rows in this Petaluma Gap vineyard. (90 points)

2017 Black Kite Pinot Noir Sierra Mar Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands

SRP: $45

Bright cherries and deeper plums on the nose, with smoky, earthy tones, clove, rose petals. Full-bodied, with suave, velvety tannins, medium acidity, this is bold but nicely balanced. Red cherries and raspberry fruit mix with rhubarb, tobacco, black tea, chai, rose petals. This is juicy but brisk with balanced, fresh elements in addition to the vibrant fruit and complex earthy, dusty notes. This should age nicely but has a lot to show right out of the bottle. Aged 17 months in ½ new French oak, 14.6% alcohol. A higher elevation vineyard, this is only the third Black Kite vintage from this site. (92 points)

2017 Black Kite Pinot Noir Kite's Rest - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley

SRP: $50

Ripe but cool cherries on the nose, juicy raspberries, spiced cranberry jam, with rose petals, rhubarb and white pepper. Full-bodied but fresh, with round tannins, chewy texture is balanced with fresh acidity. Lots of delicious, deep, but fresh raspberry, red plum, black cherry fruit. Elements of spiced tea, black pepper, cola, coffee, earth, add complexity. Very expressive and pretty now, but this could use some air or two to three years. Aged 17 months in 2/3 new French oak, 14.5% alcohol. A blend of specific blocks from three other vineyards (Redwood’s Edge, Stony Terrace and River Turn. (91 points)

2017 Black Kite Pinot Noir River Turn - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley

SRP: $62

Dep ruby color. Nose shows black cherries, currant jam, with cola, sarsaparilla, menthol, spicy grill rub. Full-bodied on the palate, but the acidity is quite vibrant, and the tannins and chewy and deep. Cool black cherry fruit, cranberry sauce, topped in spiced tea, wild herbs, cola and coffee. Fruity and deep, but nice earthy, soy, floral undertones, too. Ready to go, but this will open up nicely over the next few years. Aged 17 months in 2/3 new French oak. (91 points)

2017 Black Kite Pinot Noir Redwoods' Edge - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley

SRP: $62

Juicy ruby color. Aromas of sweet red cherries, strawberry jam, with plenty of rhubarb, mint, black pepper, roasted chestnut, and black pepper. Medium/full-bodied on the palate with smooth but chewy tannins, a ripe, juicy feel, but moderate acidity. Flavors of sweet cherries and juicy plums mix, dark and juicy, but it also stays lively. Notes of rhubarb, coffee, cola and vanilla add complexity. Aged 17 months in 2/3 new French oak. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.