Wine reviews: International grab bag

Spring is in full swing, and this week I have a mix of value-driven, bright, fun wines that offer a lot of diversity and appeal for the season.

Since I first started getting into wine, I’ve been a big fan of Picpoul de Pinet from France’s Languedoc region. The value from this region is excellent, and the wines combine warm weather tropical depth with oceanic zesty vibes. For shellfish and warm days, the two wines in this report would fit the bill perfectly.

Australia’s Yalumba has been on my radar for many years, as they consistently produce a wide range of quality wines. Their Y Series is a partnership with Re:wild, which helps preserve land and protect biodiversity. It also helps that the wines are inexpensive and delicious.

I also have a delightful amber wine from Oregon’s Troon – who continues to produce interesting wines that push boundaries. I round things out with a quality rosé from Sonoma-Cutrer, a spring-friendly Port, and a complex, age-worthy Rioja.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2021 Yalumba Chardonnay The Y Series Unwooded – Australia, South Australia
SRP: $14
Light yellow color. Peachy keen nose with lemon and lime zest, yellow apples, along with honeysuckle, hay and honeycomb – a bright a breezy appeal. The palate is light and bright with crisp acidity and a tropical burst of lemon, kiwi and white peaches. Notes of cucumber slices, lilies, dandelion, lots of wildflowers and some honey. A fun, light style that’d be great with seafood and salads. (87 points)

2021 Yalumba Sauvignon Blanc The Y Series – Australia, South Australia
SRP: $14
Pale yellow color. A mix of zesty and tropical on the nose, with limes, white peach, and notes of celery seed, white pepper, and sweeter honey and floral perfume tones. The palate is racy, fun, and fresh, with a pleasantly creamy texture and flavors of white peach and green apples. Has a chalky, punchy, flinty appeal, with a nice basil and white pepper kick. For the price, this provides a lot of complexity and depth. (88 points)

2020 Domaine Reine Juliette Picpoul de Pinet – France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Picpoul de Pinet

SRP: $16
Rich yellow color. Juicy aromas of yellow pears and apples, with fresh white and yellow flowers, and airy, bright notes of chalk dust and margarita salt. The palate has a great mix of plush texture and racy acidity, and the balance sets the stage nicely for the kiwi, lemons, and limes. Sea salt, talc, flowers, honey, a lot going on here. Deep texture but so fresh – a great example of this style, and a lot of value. (89 points)

2021 Château Font-Mars Picpoul de Pinet – France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Picpoul de Pinet
SRP: $15
Deep yellow color. Enticing nose, the fruit (quince and lime) blend so well with an oceanic infusion of oyster shells, limestone cliffs, sea spray, and chalk. Medium-bodied with zesty acidity, there’s a lovely textural weight that makes it creamy and pleasant throughout. Green and yellow apples mix with plenty of flinty, limestone, chalk dust vibes. Punchy but pristine, a very versatile spring/summer wine. (90 points)

N.V. Mumm Napa Brut Prestige – USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $25
Medium yellow color with fine bubbles. The yellow apples and lemon bar aromas mix so well with biscuits, cane sugar, cinnamon crumb cake, and white flowers. Crisp acidity and fine bubbles on a chalky frame with fresh acidity and a pleasant amount of sweetness. Peaches and yellow apples, mixed with lemon curd, and topped in honey, graham cracker, saltines, and white flowers. Fun, crowd-pleasing, reliable stuff that sports solid complexity for the price. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Gris. (88 points)

2021 Troon Vineyard Vermentino Amphora Amber – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $60
Gorgeous light amber color. Such a spritely nose with scents of red apple and orange peels, honey, all sorts of blossoms, and some candle wax and honeycomb elements. The palate has a chalky, skin-contact tannins with a slightly dusty frame. Flavors of candied orange peel, pear skins, red apple peels, and very interesting elements of corn husk, hay, white tea, clay, and honeycomb. The flavors and textures are in-line, and for a skin-contact amphora wine this isn’t too “out there” – it stays focused, fresh, and event accessible. If you’re interested in these styles, or trying to convert friends or family, this is a great one to try. All whole-cluster fermented Vermentino – this producer is an expert with this grape. (93 points)

2022 Sonoma-Cutrer Pinot Noir Rosé – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $20
Very pale copper color. Vibrantly floral on the nose with orange blossom, dandelion, and nettle, over top of gushing guava, lemon, and white peach. Creamy texture and lip-smacking acidity plan well together with the white peach, guava, and orange peel. A lot of flowers and perfume, with notes of white pepper – plenty of springy, spritely goodness. Shows a pleasant depth of crunchy minerals, white tea, and dried flowers. A delightful Sonoma pink from whole-cluster Pinot, and from a consistent producer – this would be good any time of year. (89 points)

N.V. Graham Porto Six Grapes Reserve – Portugal, Douro, Porto
SRP: $29
Deep purple color. Aromas of rich figs and plum cake, mixed with coffee, toffee, milk chocolate, and dried violets, accented by some pleasant earthy tones. The palate shows suave tannins and a chewy feel, sweet but moderated by the acidity. The flavors of sweet plums, raisin cake, fig paste, even some candied orange peel. Sports a lot of pleasantly sweet coffee and dried flowers, nuanced earth and minerals. Fun and value-driven intro Port, but complex and very well made, per usual from Graham’s. (89 points)

2017 Marqués de Riscal Rioja Baron de Chirel Reserva – Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja
SRP: $96
Deep purple color. A deep and concentrated nose with tart blueberries, red and black currants, gorgeous fruit that is matched with a complex bouquet: smoky earth, paprika, barbecue sauce and roasted coffee, a lot to coax out. Full-bodied on the palate with dusty tannins and zesty acidity, so the balance is great. Tart, deep black cherries and currants, deep but bright fruit with savory notes of black pepper, roasted red pepper, mushroom. And it’s rounded out by graphite, earth, stones and minerals. A beautiful Rioja that will age wonderfully. (93 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: International Grab Bag

In honor of Valentine’s Day weekend, I have a mix of bubbly, fun wines from all around the globe.

This Champagne-less mix of sparkling wines includes some Crémant de Limoux from Faire La Fête, which have a refreshing 6 g/l dosage and a bright appeal. Although they lack doughy, biscuity depth, they’re balanced, lively and offer a lot of complexity for the price. Gloria Ferrer offers a solid vintage sparkler from California, and Cava makes an appearance as well. 

For reds, I recent tasted some widely-available, yummy Malbecs from Argentina, and a big, bold Montepulciano d’Abruzzo as well.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted. 

Bubbles & White Wines

N.V. Faire La Fête Crémant de Limoux Brut – France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Crémant de Limoux
SRP: $19
Medium yellow color. Aromas show tangy lemon and green apple, with chalk, bread dough, biscuits, notes of verbena and white pepper. Crisp and bright on the palate, fine bubbles, nice salty kick with almonds, chalk, crushed shells. Green apples, lemon peel, lime and grapefruit, tossed with some slight honey and bread dough. Bright, light style, but solid depth, especially considering the price. Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Pinot Noir and Mauzac, aged 15 months on the lees. (88 points)

N.V. Faire La Fête Crémant de Limoux Brut Rosé – France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Crémant de Limoux
SRP: $19
Medium salmon color. Nose is crisp and floral, with white cherries, wild strawberries, red McIntosh apple peel. Tangy and zippy on the palate, a light style with bright bubbles, white cherries, red apple. Notes of white pepper, baby’s breath, verbena, and a nice salty minerality that lifts it up. Solid bargain. 65% Chardonnay, 20% Chenin Blanc, 15% Pinot Noir, aged 15 months on the lees. (87 points)

N.V. Segura Viudas Cava Brut Reserva Heredad – Spain, Cava
SRP: $30
Light gold color with fine bubbles. Bready, doughy on the nose with salty, honeyed, floral combinations over peach and lemon. Crisp acidity frames the wine well, there’s some nice bready qualities to accent the lemon and green melon fruit. Sea salt and white flowers on top of nougat, hazelnut elements, it all comes together quite well to offer a more complex but vibrant Cava. Macabeo and Parellada, aged 30 months on the lees. (88 points)

N.V. A to Z Wineworks Bubbles – USA, Oregon
SRP: $20/4, 250ml cans
Aromas of crisp red apples, raspberries and lemon, with white pepper, floral perfume, some cinnamon candies. Juicy cherry and strawberry appeal on the palate, with crisp acidity, and spritzy bubbles. Fun, fresh, with rhubarb, sea salt and sugarcane notes. Easy-drinking, crowd-pleasing stuff, this could be a big hit for summertime treks. Offers a lot more than other canned wines I’ve tasted. Carbonated Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. (85 points)

2011 Gloria Ferrer Anniversary Cuvée – USA, California, Napa, Carneros
SRP: $45
Rich yellow color. The aromas show deep, doughy, biscuity notes, with honey, almond cake, but also brighter notes of chalk, sea spray and honeysuckle. Nice depth on the palate, generous texture with some richness and sugar, but also brisk acidity, which keeps things in line well. Yellow apples, papaya, lime, with deep tones of bread dough, almond brittle, honeycomb, and elements of saline, crushed limestone and chalk. Quite a bit of depth and balance here. 2/3 Pinot, 1/3 Chardonnay, 12 g/l dosage, aged 5 years on the lees. (90 points)

2018 Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Gelblack feinherb - Germany, Rheingau
SRP: $25
Pale lemon color. Bright and inviting on the nose with lime, quince, apricot, some white flowers and crushed rocks. Pleasantly plump on the palate, the bright acidity jives well with the off-dry sugar, so this tastes balanced and vibrant. Lemon, green melon and white peach fruit, tossed with chalky, floral, crushed rock elements. Lovely freshness, balance, and depth but also fun, early-drinking style. 2018 German Rieslings have a lot to offer. (89 points)
 
Reds

2018 Domaine Jean Bousquet Gaia - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Tupungato
SRP: $20
Deep purple. Bountiful nose of sweet black cherries, blackberries, along with a pleasantly floral, herbal mix (violets, mint, eucalyptus), with cocoa and vanilla. Smooth and suave on the palate, dusty tannins, fresh acidity, supported by plenty of juicy black cherry and dark plum fruit. A lot of floral and spice elements (violets, pepper, sage), with nuanced coffee and vanilla notes. 50% Malbec, 45% Syrah, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 10 months in French oak. (89 points)

2018 Alamos Malbec – Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $13
Light purple color. Lively nose of sweet plums and cherries, along with roses, cocoa and vanilla. Smooth and velvety on the palate, fresh acidity, framed nicely with plums, raspberry and cherry fruit. Notes of cocoa powder, earth, vanilla, but there’s also some deeper, more complex notes of earth and graphite, too. Balanced, fresh, lively, I continue to find this a solid, widely-available, value-driven Malbec. (88 points)

2015 Binomio Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Riserva - Italy, Abruzzi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
SRP: $52
Bright purple color. Deep aromatics of floral tea, violets with loamy, charcoal, incense sticks and clove. Full-bodied with solid grip to the tannins, but moderate acidity keeps it fresh. A tart, deep core of blackberry and plum. Lots of pencil lead, earth, tar, anise, coffee, cedar. Complex, floral, deep, this is a beauty of a Montepulciano, and while it has a lot of density, it also shows a nuance and balance, and an underlying stony minerality. This deserves three to four years in the cellar or a good decant. Aged 15 months in French oak and then six months in stainless steel. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Terrific Value Wines from Languedoc-Roussillon

A 100-year-old vineyard in Roussillon France, which I visited in 2014.

I’ve been a big fan of wines from the Languedoc and Roussillon regions of France since I was legally able to purchase alcohol. The wines I found were inexpensive, delicious, and never boring. Spicy, earthy, floral, savory, these wines always offered something a little different.

And things have only improved in recent years. A few years ago, I spent a week traveling through the Languedoc-Roussillon regions of France, which stretch from Montpellier along the Mediterranean to the Spanish border. I explored rocky vineyards of old, gnarly vines, and small producers focused on making the best wine possible from these ancient wine-growing regions. And I fell in love with the wines, the food, the culture, and the people.

Languedoc and Roussillon are actually two separate regions, and each is packed with multiple and diverse appellations. These regions are blessed with very old vines, although many vineyards were abandoned or pulled up as a glut of cheap wine floundered in the market. But the Languedoc-Roussillon regions have reinvented themselves again and again, and these days the high quality wines and moderate prices demand serious respect.

There are so many styles and wines to explore, and you won’t have to spend a lot of money to wrap your palate around what’s on offer. For example, the wines I tasted at Weygandt (which imports a range of exceptional Languedoc-Roussillon wines) all cost between $13 and $25.

My notes on the wines I tasted are below.

2015 Château Montfin Corbières Blanc - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Corbières
$13
The creaminess on this wine is really nice, but lots of freshness. Apricots, lemons, minerals, chalk dust, white flowers – absolutely delicious and impressive for the price. Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and Vermentino on clay-limestone soils. (87 points)

2014 Domaine des Soulanes Côtes Catalanes Kaya - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes
$23
Rich aromatic nose of yellow fruits and flowers. Bold textural palate but fresh acidity and impressive balance. Layered, creamy apricot and orange fruit with mixes of ocean spray. A blend of Grenache Gris, Grenache Blanc, Carignan Blanc and Carignan Gris from 65-year-old vines and aged on the lees in half stainless steel have old oak. I’m in love with this wine. (90 points)

2014 L'Oustal Blanc (Isabel et Claude Fonquerle) K - France, Vin de France
$16
Lovely brightness to the aromatic fruit, along with violets and raspberries and brambly spice. Structured well with dusty tannins but fresh acidity keeps it balanced, bright raspberry and black cherry fruit laced with lavender, pepper, leather. Dusty, earthy, complex, delicious, old school Languedoc red. 100% Carignan from Minervois and St. Chinian. Crazy value. (89 points)

2012 Domaine Le Clos du Serres Les Terrasses du Larzac Le Bouis - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Coteaux du Languedoc Les Terrasses du Larzac
$20
So much pepper and leather on the nose with lots of gushing black cherries. Tangy, juicy, fresh but also structured and grippy. Pepper and beef jerky mix so well with the black cherry and plum fruit, and I get notes of lavender, violets, charcoal and roasted herbs. 100% Syrah from shist/slate soils, fermented and aged in concrete. Holding up so nicely with more time ahead. (90 points)

2010 Domaine Canet-Valette Saint-Chinian Ivresses - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Saint-Chinian
$22
Roses, raspberries, black cherries, leather and roasted herbs on the nose. Bold and chewy on the palate but fresh acidity balanced it all out. The red currant and black cherry fruit is tossed with leather, pepper, sage, dusty earth. Lots going on here, this is very pretty but still has time ahead. Grenache with 5% Mourvedre and 5% Syrah. (90 points)

2014 Domaine des Soulanes Côtes du Roussillon Villages Sarrat Del Mas - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon Villages
$22
Leathery saddle nose with plums, black cherries, anise and rose potpourri. Silky texture but serious tannic structure, moderating acidity, this wine pumps with plum and black cherry fruit, mixes with spiced tea and roasted herb notes. Delicious and elegant now but I’d love to taste this in 3-5 years. 50% Grenache, 25% Carignan, 25% Syrah, aged 12 months on old oak. (90 points)

Wine Reviews: Summer Samples from Around the Globe

I’m back with another grab bag of wines from all over the world.

I was really surprised by three Greek white wines from Domaine Papagiannakos. Made from the Savatiano grape, traditionally used for the production of Restina, these are dry, zesty, complex white wines with unique flavor profiles.

There are some tasty, inexpensive rosés, and some delicious and value-driven wines from New Zealand.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2017 Lekker Rosé - South Africa, Western Cape
SRP: $17
Pale watermelon color. Tart and spicy aromas of strawberries, white cherry, raspberry leaf, nettle. Light-bodied (11.5%), really zippy and easily gluggable, with white cherry, red apple and tart strawberry notes. Lots of dandelion, nettle, white pepper. Fun, zesty stuff. A blend of Grenache and Merlot. A collaboration between winemaker Nico Grobler of Eikendal Vineyards and La Brune Wines in South Africa, and a firm called Wine Awesomeness. (85 points)

2016 Nik. Weis Selection Urban Riesling - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
SRP: $15
Pale lemon color. Classic nose of limes, white peaches, also some honey and yellow flowers. Juicy and ripe on the palate but this boasts zippy acidity on a light frame (9.5% alcohol). White peaches, guava, limes, mixed with notes of honeyed tea, slight mineral and river rocks. Delicious, classic, not super deep or complex, but a solid Mosel introduction for the price. (86 points)

2016 Les Domaines Paul Mas Cote Mas Rosé Aurore - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Vin de Pays d'Oc
SRP: $11/1L
Pale watermelon color. Smells like rose hips, watermelon rind, white tea, some honey and clove, too. Plump but fresh with a bright and fun personality, vibrant and fruity with strawberries and white cherries. A nice kick of white pepper, nettle and cut flower stems. Solid one-liter buy that should be a hit at parties. 50% Grenache, 30% Cinsault, 20% Syrah. (86 points)

N.V. Cote Mas Crémant de Limoux Brut Rosé - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Crémant de Limoux
SRP: $15
Light copper color. Bright aromas of strawberries, watermelon, quince, some freshly baked biscuits. Tart and a bit lean in body but bright acidity, fine bubbles, lots of fresh red fruits (cherries, strawberry, apple), along with some seashell and baby’s breath, hints of biscuits. Not too complex but put together very well, and quite delicious. Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Pinot Noir. (87 points)

2013 La Pinot Pinot Noir - California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
SRP: $19
Pale ruby color. Nose of raspberries, red cherries, rhubarb and cherry fountain cola. Medium-bodied, light tannins, fresh acidity, framed well with candied but lighter-styled red fruits (wild raspberry, red cherries). Notes of white pepper, rhubarb, sweet cola, rose hips. Fresh and lively but lots of ripe fruit. Uncomplicated but fun. (86 points)

2016 Catalina Sounds Sauvignon Blanc - New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough
SRP: $16
Pale straw color. Aromas of sea salt, lime, apricot, sliced salsa peppers and white pepper. Bright and zesty on the palate with slight waxy texture but so tangy. Apricot, peach, lime, sliced bell peppers, sea salt, lemon zest. Classic profile, shows significant complexity for the price. (87 points)

2016 Crowded House Sauvignon Blanc - New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough
SRP: $13
Pale straw. A burst of lemongrass, summer rain on a green field, white peaches, lemon zest and nettle. Medium-bodied with refreshing acidity, this is full of kumquat, lime, white peach, juicy but tart. Notes of saline, shells, the greens are nuanced, not too overt, with nettle and lemon verbena. Textbook, but a lot of depth with a super zesty finish and some minerals and honey. So good for the money. (88 points)

2015 Catalina Sounds Pinot Noir - New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough
SRP: $19
Medium ruby color. Juicy black cherries, raspberries, cola, violet petals, cinnamon and clove. Medium-bodied, silk texture, soft tannins, medium acidity, bright cherries and red plums. Some roses, cola, clove. Soft, easy style, delicious, shows some solid complexity. Aged 10 months in 20% new French oak. (88 points)

2016 Nanny Goat Pinot Noir - New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago
SRP: $23
Light ruby colored. Nose of candied red cherries, strawberries, spiced cranberry sauce, some roses. Silky and tangy acidity with light tannins. Fun, juicy, ripe red cherries, strawberry jam. Notes of cocoa, rose petals, rhubarb. Easy-drinking style with wide-ranging appeal. This wine sees 15% new oak for eight months. (87 points)

2015 Domaine Papagiannakos Savatiano - Greece, Attica, Markopoulo
SRP: $17
Medium yellow color. Aromas of sea salt, shells, honeyed tea, apricot and lemon curd. Lively and bright but rich textural elements, wonderful balance with this lemon curd, apricot and orange marmalades. I love the beautiful contrast between chalky, oceanic, mineral notes with these white pepper and spice elements, and the fruit is so delicious. 12.5% alcohol. (88 points)

2016 Domaine Papagiannakos Savatiano - Greece, Attica, Markopoulo
SRP: $17
Medium yellow color. Bright and zesty aromas with lots of floral complexity, crushed chalk, with a core of lemon zest and guava. Plush texture but medium-bodied (12.5%), fresh acidity. Delicious tropical fruits play off of lime and lemon zesty. Chalky minerals and honeycomb/spiced tea elements are beautiful together, and I love the depth and complexity of this wine, all while being super easy to sip. (89 points)

Greek orange wine? Yes, please!

2013 Domaine Papagiannakos Savatiano Vareli Skin Contact - Greece, Attica, Markopoulo
SRP: $23
Rich gold color. Aromas of almond, beeswax, white tea, chalky notes, oyster shell, all on top of apricot and lemon curd. Rich, waxy textural dynamic but only 12%, so it’s light/medium-bodied, and this brisk acidity throughout makes for fascinating balance. Apricot, orange marmalade, lemon curd, along with almond, sea salt, honeyed tea. Lots of depth and nerdy orange wine complexity, but this is such a balanced and straight delicious wine as well. Love it. (90 points)

<85 points
2016 Jean-Claude Mas Arrogant Frog Lily Pad Pink Rosé - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Vin de Pays d'Oc
SRP: $
Light watermelon color. Red and white flowers on the nose along with under-ripe strawberries, sweet roses and honeysuckle. Zesty and bracing, a bit sharp with white cherries, red apple peel and under-ripe strawberry tips. Leafy, white pepper notes. Fun but not the most balanced rose. 100% Syrah.

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

You Should Be Buying and Drinking Languedoc Reds

If you're anything like me you love: a) hearty red wine with rich fruit and savory flavors, b) cooking up foods to pair with said wines, and c) doing all this for a reasonable amount of money.

I've long been a fan of the value-driven red blends coming from the Languedoc region of Southern France. But it wasn't until a trip there last year that I began to grasp the extent of good, and even potentially great, wines of this region. Perhaps unfairly, this region has struggled against a reputation as a workhorse region of boring bulk wine. That meme should've died out years ago. More and more producers are crafting stunning wines (frequently from very old vines) that can rival the quality of similar blends from the Rhone, and many of them cost quite a bit less.

If you don't know anything about this region, there has never been a better time to learn. The selections are better and more diverse than ever.

Weygandt Wines, my favorite shop in DC, has an impressive range of Languedoc wines from some consistent producers. Perhaps overshadowed by their extensive Burgundy, Loire and Rhone offerings, these wines offer consumers a great primer on Languedoc reds. Sure, Languedoc is home to wines of every style and color, but this is largely the land of red wine. These wines are generally blended from Carignan, Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault and a host of other red grapes.

2012 Domaine Montfin Corbières - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Corbières
$15
I get ripe cherries and smoke on the nose. Good structure but approachable, the dark plum and cherry fruit is accented by notes of anise and charcoal. 70% Carignan and 30% Grenache. (85 points)

2012 Jean-Baptiste Senat Minervois Arbalete and Coquelicots - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Minervois
$19
More olive and white pepper on the nose here, some bright currants and cherries with a spicy herbal kick. Firm but dusty tannins, bright acid, clear currant fruits and plum skins mixed with earth, spice and herbal components. Drinking well now. 80% Grenache and 20% Cinsault. (88 points)

2012 Jean-Baptiste Senat Minervois La Nine - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Minervois
$25
Darker and earthier on the nose, more like the fruit has been crushed into a paste with deep iron accents. Smooth yet structured, crunch dark plum and kirsch flavors are balanced by earth, meat, pepper and exotic floral elements. Spicy, loamy finish. Very pretty now but could be cellared for 3-4 so easily. 40% Grenache, 40% Carignan and 20% Syrah. (90 points)

2010 Jean-Baptiste Senat Minervois Le Bois des Merveilles - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Minervois
$35
Bursting with raspberries, blackberries, cola, chocolate pudding and sweet oregano aromas, a very complex mix. Bold, a bit more extracted, this is a deep, plummy, rich and plush wine. Stays smooth throughout, as the dark plum fruit mixes with minerals, spices and liqueur notes. Grenache, Carignan and Mourvedre. (90 points)

2010 Clos Marie Coteaux du Languedoc Pic St. Loup L'Olivette - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Coteaux du Languedoc Pic St. Loup
$25
Dark and a bit tight on the nose, shows some roses and deep plums though. Smoky and bold on the palate but some refreshing tart red berries. Mineral elements, mocha, spice and violets. Complex stuff that could develop quite a bit in the cellar. Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault. (88 points)

2010 Clos Marie Coteaux du Languedoc Pic St. Loup Simon - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Coteaux du Languedoc Pic St. Loup
$38
Sweet plum cake on the nose, deeply floral, ginger snap cookies, cinnamon, charcoal, all sorts of interesting aromas. Firm, well structured palate, yet pretty. Plums, blackberries, doused in smoke, tobacco, pine sap and mineral notes. Complex, long, yet refreshing. Needs time to show full potential, but this is a real beauty. (91 points)

2012 Domaine Le Clos du Serres Coteaux du Languedoc Le Clos - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Coteaux du Languedoc
$19
Very pretty aromas of dark flowers, olives and smoke. Sweet plums mix with herbal smoke on a silky-smooth frame. Juicy fruit, mineral and earth accents, an elegant approach. Equal parts Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Oeillade grapes. (88 points)

2012 Domaine Le Clos du Serres Coteaux du Languedoc Les Terrasses du Larzac Le Bouis - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Coteaux du Languedoc Les Terrasses du Larzac
$27
Smooth and rich on the nose, lovely plums, earth and charcoal notes. Smooth and full palate, coating yet still fresh with a bunch of jammy black and red fruits. A spice-laden wine, with chestnuts, graphite, charcoal, a deep sense of minerality. Syrah from schist soils, the Northern Rhone fans should dig this. I've love to bury this for a decade. (90 points)

2011 Domaine Le Clos du Serres Coteaux du Languedoc Les Terrasses du Larzac La Blaca - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Coteaux du Languedoc Les Terrasses du Larzac
$25
Lovely nose of black cherry pie, spice cake, green herbs, violets and cocoa. Smooth and velvety palate, tons of floral, cola and herbal spice elements to bounce off the juicy blueberry and blackberry fruit. Complex, intense, worthy of 5+ years in the cellar. A long, impressive blend of 75% Syrah, 15% Grenache and 10% Carignan. I loved the 2010 and this vintage is really impressive as well. (91 points) 

2011 Domaine Le Clos du Serres Coteaux du Languedoc Les Terrasses du Larzac L'Humeur Vagabonde - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Coteaux du Languedoc Les Terrasses du Larzac
$25
Deeply mineral-driven on the nose, the berry fruit mixes with lots of granite, charcoal and spice notes, some sweet violets as well. Silky and pure on the palate, plummy with chewy tannins. Long, minera-centric, complex notes of smoke, coffee, sage and minerals. From the estates 100-year-old Carignan vines with some Syrah and Grenache blended in. Beautiful stuff with plenty of life ahead. (91 points) 

2013 L'Oustal Blanc (Isabel et Claude Fonquerle) Vin de France K - France, Vin de France
$20
Deep and extracted aromatically, boysenberry and blueberry pie topped with smoked notes. Jammy, plummy, yet not overblown, like blueberries and blackberry pie topped with cocoa, charcoal smoke and pepper. Can’t help but love it, even if it is a bit burly. All Carignan. (88 points)
 
2012 L'Oustal Blanc (Isabel et Claude Fonquerle) Naïck Red - France, Vin de Table Français
$22
Smells huge, like massive blueberries topped with pepper and grilled herbs. Actually smooth and creamy, not hot despite the higher alcohol, a bold wine for sure though, mouth-filling. Full of blackberry and blueberry jam, topped with earth, violets, pepper and smoke. Comes from two terroirs, one in Saint Chinian and one in Minervois. A blend of Cinsault, Carignan and smaller parts Grenache and Syrah from two parcels in Saint Chinian and Minervois. The biggest wine in the lot, but very well-made. (89 points)

Dry Rosé: Not Just for Summer

Summer’s been over for a while. Sigh. But rosé season never really ends — at least it shouldn’t. I drink the pink year-round because I love the crispness of dry rosé and the food pairing options. And a lot of rosé wines get discounted after their summer heyday, so bargains abound.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted for a report on the daily wine blog Terroirist, where this piece was first published.

2013 Château les Crostes Côtes de Provence - France, Provence, Côtes de Provence
SRP: $21
On the nose, I get more sweet flowers than the other wines, along with strawberries and crisp watermelon. Tang and spritz on the palate, with nervy acid. Flavors of wild strawberries, watermeln rind, slight herbal element. Deep, concentrated minerality in this wine, which I really like. Complex, lively, memorable, this begs for summer cook-outs. (89 points)

2013 Domaine du Tariquet Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne Rosé de Pressée - France, Southwest France, Gascony, Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne
SRP: $10
The nose shows white cherries, strawberries, rhubarb and white pepper. Super tangy on the palate with tangy strawberries, grapefruit and lemon zinger tea. Spicy and crisp. 40% Merlot, 40% Syrah, 20% Tannat. (86 points)

2013 Domaine de Nizas Rosé - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc
SRP: $13
Salmon-copper colored. Smells of rose hips, white cherries, wild strawberries and a hint of green grass. Juicy and ripe on the palate with white cherry, strawberry and watermelon flavors. Medium acid provides some freshness while notes of white pepper and green herbs add some complexity. Fun stuff, albeit not the most complex pink. 40% Syrah, 40% Grenache and 20% Mourvedre. (85 points)

2011 Las Lilas Vinho Verde - Portugal, Minho, Vinho Verde
SRP: $10
A bright strawberry color with a lot of spritz in the glass. Smells of strawberries, white cherries, sweet roses and sweet candle wax. Crisp and fizzy on the palate, this is a bright watermelon and strawberry-driven wine, light bodied, fun but it’s also pretty, food-friendly and full of life. The boisterous fizz adds to the fun of the wine. I can’t think of a better way to spend $10 on a summer wine. Drink up, though. (86 points)

2013 Isabel Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon “Deep Rose” - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $20
Well, it’s a deep rose color for sure. I get lots of watermelon, strawberries and some spicy elements of pepper and rhubarb. Some good structure for a rose, with light tannins and fresh acid. Juicy white cherries, watermelon and some spice mix with white and black pepper. Tasty, picnic-friendly, crowd-pleasing. (86 points)

2013 Bodegas San Alejandro Calatayud Rosado “Las Rocas” - Spain, Aragón, Calatayud
SRP: $14
Bright watermelon colored. On the nose, I get cranberry juice, strawberries\, some sea salt, green and white pepper, some rose hips. Crisp acid and medium body, the wine shows crunchy white cherries and cranberries. Notes of white pepper and spiced citrus tea add complexity. A lot of fun to sip on its own, but this would be great with a backyard grill spread. 100% Garnacha. (87 points)

N.V. Domaine Carneros Cuvée de la Pompadour Brut Rosé - California, Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $36
A bright strawberry-salmon color. Aromas of grapefruit, lemon tart, roses, some toasted bread. Crisp and nervy on the palate, with live-wire acidity and fine bubbles. Flavors of McIntosh apple, watermelon rind and wild strawberries, all of it clean and crunchy. Not incredibly deep in concentration or aging potential, but it’s showing a ton of precision and punch right now. A blend of 58% Pinot Noir, 42% Chardonnay. (90 points)

Tasting Report: Grab Bag of Languedoc Wines

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Earlier this year I had the pleasure of touring the Languedoc region of France. It was an eye-opening experience, and I found many underdog wines worth rooting for. Since my last tasting report on wines from the Languedoc, I’ve tasted through a few rosés and reds and found some impressive and interesting wines. Most of them are solid values as well.

These wines were all received as trade samples and tasted sighted. 

2013 Domaine de Gournier Vin de Pays Cévennes Rosé - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays Cévennes

SRP: $10

Aromas of white peach, honeydew and watermelon, some white pepper as well. Zingy and crisp on the palate, steely even. White cherries and tart strawberries mix with sea salt, white pepper and minerals. Crisp but plump with lingering minerals on the finish. Cabernet, Cinsault, Grenache, Merlot and Syrah. (87 points)

2013 Domaine Saint-Antoine Vin de Pays du Gard Rosé - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays du Gard

SRP: $13

A vibrant watermelon color. A burst of red apple peel, strawberries, sweet roses and a rustic, earthy, herbal quality as well, which I find very attractive. The palate is really impressive, showing a lot of concentration and depth, but the acid rips through, balancing it out. Gushing strawberries, white cherries and McIntosh apple fruit, but it’s laced with pepper, granite and there’s a lot of earth tones in this wine. I’m impressed with the complexity of this wine, and the kinds of food it could pair with, but it’s still fresh and zesty wine at its core. A rosé of Syrah, and a ridiculous value. (89 points)

2012 Abbaye Sylva Plana Faugères “Les Novices” - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Faugères

SRP: $20

Medium ruby-purple color. Spicy on the nose, with cracked pepper and sage over top of cranberries, sour cherries and red plums. Medium-bodied with medium tannins and fresh acid. The raspberry and cherry fruit is tangy and fresh but it’s also got just a bit of a sun-roasted quality to it. This wine shows a lot of earth, like deep, loamy soil mixed in with crushed rocks. I get a nice sweet spice note as well, like clove and cinnamon. Made from the estate’s younger vines, this is a bit lighter, but it still shows significant complexity. 55% Cinsault, 30% Grenache, 10% Syrah and 5% Mourvedre. (87 points)

2012 Abbaye Sylva Plana Faugères “La Closeraie” - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Faugères

SRP: $25

A bright magenta-purple color. Aromas of sweet roses, tar, strawberry, currant jam, basil-rosemary, all deep and complex. Fresh, fine tannins, juicy strawberry, cherry and currant fruit mix with earth, chestnut and roasted coffee notes. I also get some bright floral notes, and an underlying sense of minerality. Very impressive and lasting, could even use 2 or 3 in the cellar. So pure and tangy and fresh, elegant even. 35% Syrah, 25% Grenache, 20% Carignan and 20% Mourvedre. (89 points)

This Faugeres sounds the clarion call: Take Languedoc seriously.

2011 Abbaye Sylva Plana Faugères “Le Songe de l’Abbé” - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Faugères

SRP: $39

Dark purple color. Complex, deep aromas of blackberry, black currant, crushed rocks and pencil lead, some cedar, graphite and iron, so dark and complex. Fresh and tangy acid but firm tannins. Tart black berries and black currant fruit blends with accents of charcoal, cedar, black pepper and cocoa powder. I also get some earthy-herbal elements (Sweet basil? Eucalyptus?) Deep and very complex, profound even. This is drinking well now but could easily improve with 3-5 in the cellar. From the producer’s oldest vines in schist soils, this is a blend of 50% Carignan, 30% Cinsault, 10% Grenache and 10% Mourvedre, aged 12 months in new oak. I’ve tasted a ton of Languedoc wines this year, and this ranks up there with the best. (92 points)

2012 Mas des Bressades Vin de Pays du Gard Cabernet/Syrah - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays du Gard

SRP: $15

A juicy ruby color in the glass. Nose of black cherries, black currants, vibrant roses and sweet herbal tea, incense, herbal liqueur. Full bodied and velvety with chewy tannins and moderate acid. The plum cake, roasted fig and currant paste flavors are long and complex, accented by spice cake, fig cookies and some pepper sauce. Ripe and chewy but not just about the fruit. Decant or hold for two to four years. 70% Cabernet and 30% Syrah. (88 points)

2012 Domaine Sainte-Eugénie Corbières La Réserve - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Corbières

SRP: $15

Bright raspberries and red currants on the nose, some underlying smoke, anise and violet notes. Tangy and fresh on the palate, with crisp acid and dusty tannins. Bright raspberries, red currants, red apple peel mix with minerals, crushed rocks and pencil shavings, and there are some underlying herbal elements. So fresh and lively, quite complex with lots of mineral and rocky-granite elements. Finishes long and fresh. I’m really surprised by how pretty this wine is. Syrah, Carignan and Grenache. Great bargain. (90 points)

Exploring Languedoc Wine Country in "Virgile's Vineyard"

I picked up “Virgile’s Vineyard” during a January trip to the Languedoc-Roussillon region of southern France. Virgile Joly, the subject of this wine narrative, was eager to give me a signed copy. We’d dined together in Montpellier and I tasted through his wines at Millesime BioFair, a trade show focused on promoting organic and biodynamic wines.

Virgile struck me as a genuine man, devoid of all pretension. He listens closely before speaking, and when he does speak his words are rich with meaning. I liked his wines, too, especially his Saturne, a red blend from the Saint-Saturnin area of the Languedoc.   

I let my thoughts about the Languedoc simmer for a few months before I picked up this book and relived my experiences through Patrick Moon’s language. This book was originally published in 2003, but a new edition came out last year, which includes an 10-year retrospective epilogue.

Moon hails from England, but he spent a year-long sabbatical in an old Languedoc home that he inherited. The premise of his book is quite simple: Moon roams the Languedoc from January to December, and each month is shaped into a chapter. As the title suggests, Moon follows Joly around his vineyard and tries to learn as much as he can about vinegrowing, winemaking and the local oenological peculiarities. He prunes vines, picks grapes and, of course, drinks a lot of Languedoc vino.

Moon’s vocabulary is undeniably British. His diction is highly elevated and his language is flowery and effusive. When surrounded by bottles of wine and awe-inspiring vineyards, writers (myself included) are prone to getting carried away, and Moon gets carried away quite often.

But there’s something very pleasant about getting lost in Moon’s overflowing banter: “The vines were, of course, completely bare at this time of year — some neatly pruned, others still a ragged tangle — but the delicate, silvery grey foliage of the olive trees gently counterpointed the starkness of the rugged, fir-clad hills immediately behind me to the north.”

The book is quite informative for those interested in learning more about the entire vineyard-to-glass process. Moon shares what he learns as he learns it, which is helpful when talking about vineyard management methods, sugar and acid levels and fermentation chemisty.

Moon spends many pages reflecting on the farm-to-table way of life in the Languedoc: “Where vegetables in England might advertise their country of origin, here I find baskets that cite specific villages, even farms, in their pedigrees. Only the oranges come from as far afield as Spain. My naïve request for basil is simply laughed at. If it isn’t seasonal, it isn’t here.”

January clouds roll over a vineyard near the Languedoc town of Calce, France.

I really appreciate reading the historical and cultural tidbits that the Languedoc locals share with Moon. For example, I connected with Joly’s comments about the sometimes rough relationship between estate winegrowers and large cooperatives: “We’re not in competition; we’re complementary… Different products, different roles. You see, for me, a healthy market means a lot of people drinking wine on a regular basis. And that means a lot of decent quality, affordable wine for everyday consumption, rubbing shoulders with the best. Which is not to say that the co-op doesn’t make some very good wines…”

One of his guides, Krystina, is full of information about the Languedoc’s important role in the world’s history of wine. Here’s Krystina on the Greek connection with the Languedoc: “Wine proved a great success with the locals, you see. And very soon the Greeks were planting the Languedoc’s first cultivated vines and making the first local wines. Same with the olive trees, because olive oil wasn’t just the cornerstone of their cuisine, they also needed it for lighting, medicine, important religious observances, you name it. Absolutely vital.”

For millennia, hardworking men and women have cultivated vines and crushed berries in this rocky, sun-drenched terrain. But, unfortunately, the region’s reputation suffered as many producers churned out lots of bland juice for the bulk market. “The region was making forty-four percent of the country’s wine from only twenty-three percent of its vineyard area,” Krystina tells Moon. “It was selling on price not quality.”

Luckily for winemakers and consumers, the idea that the Languedoc is home only to mass-produced plonk doesn’t hold up anymore. Sure you can still find insipid wines, but more and more producers — like Virgile Joly — are producing exciting, terroir-driven wines that deserve your attention.

If you’re a lover of wine, travel, food and Southern France, this book also deserves attention.

Click here for a GoPro video edit from my Languedoc travels. 

Video From My Wine Trip to Languedoc-Roussillon

In January, I spent five days wine tasting my way through the Languedoc-Roussillon region of Southern France. The trip was organized by SudVinBio, an association of organic Languedoc-Roussillon winemakers, and centered around the Millésime Bio Fair in Montpellier.

I was joined by a group of wine writers (including Alder Yarrow and W. Blake Gray) and sommeliers from the United States and Canada. We kicked off the trip with two days of vineyard tours in the Roussillon, where I experienced more than my share of the intense and persistent Tramontane winds. After the vineyard tours, we spent a few days at the Bio Fair in Montpellier, a trade show with more 700 organic winemakers from 12 countries.I brought my GoPro camera with me, which I usually use for surfing. But I figured I'd try my hand at some "extreme wine tourism" video. I'm no professional videographer, but I had a lot of fun with this. The video box here is quite small, so for a better picture click the full-screen mode once you play the video.

Cheers!

Tasting Organic Wines from the Languedoc-Roussillon

This report was first published in the daily wine blog Terroirist.

If the Languedoc-Roussillon is the largest French wine region, it’s also the greenest. The Languedoc-Roussillon is home to some 20,830 hectares of organic vineyards, farmed by 1,245 producers, according to 2012 figures from the French Bio Agency. That’s nearly a third of the 64,800 hectares of vineyards across France that have been certified organic or are undergoing conversion. (1 hectare translates to a bit less than 2.5 acres.)

The courtyard at Domaine Cazes in Rivesaltes. IJB.

I recently spent five days wine tasting my way through this vast region. My trip was centered around the 2014 Millésime BioFair, a trade show in Montpellier focused on promoting organic and biodynamic wines. The fair was organized by SudVinBio, an association of organic Languedoc-Roussillon winemakers, which brought over a group of wine writers and sommeliers from the United States and Canada.

On the first day of our trip, we drove west from Montpellier to the small town of Rivesaltes, home of one of the region’s many Vin Doux Naturel sweet wines. I spent the two-hour drive looking out the window, observing this land of contrasts. A field of knotty old bush vines abutted an IKEA superstore. Campfires smoldered in the middle of trailer park sites. Newly pruned vineyards sat on one side of the road, abandoned vineyards on the other, their vines left to fend for themselves amidst towering weeds and mustard grass. Crumbling construction sites, covered in graffiti, looked over the pristine blue of the Mediterranean. I was beginning to understand where all those Vin de Pays d’Oc wines came from, and perhaps where they got their earthy, rustic character.

Before lunch, our group gathered in a tasting room at the organic powerhouse Domaine Cazes. SudVinBio had amassed more than 70 bottles of organic wine from all over the Languedoc-Roussillon for us to taste through. Most of the wines carried price tags in the 6 to 12 Euro range, although a few scattered bottles cost upwards of 25 Euros. To be honest, the tasting was a mixed bag. Yes, the Languedoc-Roussillon still carries a reputation for insipid wine and crummy winemaking. While lots of producers are doing their damnedest to turn things around, many of these wines tasted dull or bitter or reeked of brett. But among the mediocre, a few wines stood out and demanded attention.

My notes on a few of those wines...

White

2012 Château de la Liquiere Faugéres “Cistus” - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Faugères

My first Faugeres blanc, and I’m liking it. Peaches, whipped honey and hazelnut on the nose. Creamy palate, fresh acid, slightly nutty and creamy. Nice mineral kick. A blend of Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and Vermentino. Not too big, but grabs your attention. (88 points)

2012 Les Chemins de Bassac Vin de Pays des Côtes de Thongue “Isa” - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays des Côtes de Thongue
Peach, cantaloupe melon and vanilla on the nose. Rich texture, a bit oil, but medium acid helps balance it out. Honeycomb, white peach, yellow apple and a waxy note. Nice finish. Solid stuff. (86 points)

Rose

2012 Château Montfin Corbières - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Corbières

So spicy on the nose, with wild strawberries and white and black pepper. Crisp and pepper on the palate, with red flowers, watermelon and a sense of purity and minerality. (87 points)

2013 Château Vieux Moulin Corbières - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Corbières

Aromas of grapefruit, strawberry greens and nettles. Tangy and light on the palate, with white pepper, minerals and green grass on top of lemon and grapefruit. A fresh, salad-friendly wine. Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah. (85 points)

Red

2012 Domaine de Cebene Vin de Pays d’Oc “Ex Arena” - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Vin de Pays d’Oc

Complex aromas: sweet red flowers, bright cherries and spicy pepper. Firm, grippy tannins meet fresh acid on the palate. The black cherry fruit is concentrated, mixing with nuts, dried flowers and herb garden. Complex, deserving of contemplation and a few years in the cellar. (89 points)

2012 Gérard Bertrand Vin de Pays d’Oc “Cigalus” - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Vin de Pays d’Oc
Complex and classic aromas of currant, tobacco leaf and pencil shavings. Juicy black cherries and plums on the palate. Creamy tannins and fresh acid form a velvety mouthfeel. Flavors of soil, pepper, cedar and graphite add complexity. Head and shoulders above most wines in the tasting. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Of course, this was also one of the most expensive wines in the bunch at 28 Euros. (90 points)

2011 Château Costes-Cirgues Coteaux du Languedoc - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Coteaux du Languedoc
Deep aromatics: violets, earth, mixed berries and cedar. Full but fresh on the palate with dense berries, olive, smoked meat and cedar. Solid length with floral notes on the finish. Syrah and Grenache. (88 points)

2011 Domaine de Cebene Faugères “Felgaria” - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Faugères
Definitely one of the best wines of the tasting, and I think this was almost unanimous in everyone’s enthusiasm. Roses, olives, charcoal and currants on the nose. Silky and pure with delicious cherries and plums. Good structure, fresh acid, secondary flavors of charcoal, dried flowers and pepper. Long and sexy. (89 points)

For a full-on assault of tasting notes, click here for my CellarTracker report on this tasting of organic Languedoc-Roussillon wines.