Lodi Wines Continue to Impress

I’ve been a fan of wines from Lodi for a long time, and it’s been interesting to follow them for these past ten years or so.

Lodi wines are all about diversity, as the wines in this report show. With old vines, diverse soils, and tons of different grape varieties, winemakers have a lot to work with. There are small lot, old vine, bright and vibrant styles, and large production, jammy, fun styles, and everything in between, really. In addition to all the classic California staples, I enjoy wines made from Spanish, Italian, German and Austrian grapes, too.

And Lodi’s wine trade group has been working hard to promote these wines in the wine community for many years. I think a lot of it has paid off. With an engaged social media presence, a well-done blog, and fascinating projects like the Lodi Native Zinfandels that I first wrote about in 2014, I’m still excited about this region.

I recently had a chance to catch up with Elaine Chukan Brown as she and some other Lodi wine folks were touring the country. I had a great time catching some of her passion for the wines of Lodi and the people who make them. I also received some Lodi samples recently, which I included in this report. The wines were all tasted sighted.

Whites

2018 Acquiesce Ingenue - California, Central Valley, Lodi, Mokelumne River
SRP: $32
So bright and floral on the nose. The palate has a pleasant creaminess, deep texture, but vibrant acidity. Creamy peach, kiwi and melon fruit mix with hay and floral spice. A blend of Grenache Blanc, Clairette Blanche, Bourboulenc and Picpoul Blanc, fermented in stainless steel. Owner/winemaker Susan Tipton only produces white blends, in Lodi, nonetheless. She clearly knows what she’s doing. (89 points)

2018 Markus Wine Co. Nativo Mokelumne Glen Vineyards - California, Central Valley, Lodi

SRP: $22
Brisk, alpine aromas of mountain stream, crushed rocks, with sea salt, lime and green melon. Plush texture meets ripping acidity on the palate, which has lovely depth and balance. Lemon, tangerine and green melon mix well with notes of hay, chalk, sea salt. A bright, vibrant, invigorating blend of Kerner, Bacchus and Riesling from Mokelumne Glen Vineyards. (91 points)

Reds

2017 Bokisch Vineyards Graciano Las Cerezas Vineyard - California, Central Valley, Lodi, Clements Hills
SRP: $32
So airy and fresh on the nose, with bright raspberries, red apple peel, with rhubarb, white pepper, rose petals. Crisp and juicy on the palate, smooth tannins, balanced and fresh. Deep core of fruit (raspberries and cherries), but the wine always stays lively and fresh, and shows notes of rose petals and incense sticks. Bokisch does some awesome things with Spanish varieties in Lodi, and this wine is a great example of that. (91 points)

2018 Alquimista Cellars Zinfandel Jessie's Grove Ancient Vine - California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $52

So aromatic, with floral perfume, spiced tea, vibrant cherries, raspberries, some leather. On the palate, this is so crisp and inviting, with rounded-edged tannins, lively acidity, crunchy yet suave fruit (raspberries, red cherries). Pinot-like elegance, with time more dusty earth, mineral and clay notes come out. Includes some Carignan, Flame Tokay and Cinsault. This is really special stuff, and one of the prettiest Zin-based wines I’ve tasted in a long time. (93 points)

2017 Markus Wine Co. Touriga Nacional Toura - California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $39
Expressive aromas of juicy black cherries, raspberries, cherries, with violet petals, clove, scorched earth. Vibrant acidity frames the wine well against dusty tannins. This has a plush but zippy aesthetic. Cherries and crunchy red apple mix with notes of floral perfume, clove and coffee woven in so well. So pretty and elegant, even at this young age, but I’d love to see it in five years or so. Equal parts Touriga Nacional, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah. (91 points)

2017 Turley Zinfandel Steacy Ranch - California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $30
The aromas are so expressive and vibrant: cherries and strawberries topped in tobacco leaf, spiced tea, rhubarb and mus. Velvety tannins meet moderate acidity on the palate, this has a round but fresh and bright appeal, with smooth red cherry and raspberry fruit. Notes of lavender, clay, clove and tobacco add complexity. I’d love to see what this does in three to five years. Includes some Grenache and Carignan, this is sourced from a vineyard planted in 1907. (91 points)

2018 Turley Zinfandel Dogtown Vineyard - California, Central Valley, Lodi, Clement HillsSRP: N/A
Bright ruby color. Gorgeous nose of raspberries, strawberries and cherries, lovely freshness but a lot of deeper tones too, dusty earth, violets, warm mulling spices. On the palate, the acidity is super fresh, the tannins are fine and frame the wine well, lovely balance. Raspberry, strawberry and red apple fruit, mixing with delightful tones of clove rose petals, sage. So bright, elegant and precise, very easy to drink now but I’d love to see this in five or six years. From a vineyard planted in 1944, own-rooted, head-tread vines, this is a very special Zinfandel. (93 points)

2017 Precedent Carignan Mule Plane River - California, Central Valley, Lodi, Mokelumne River

SRP: $24
Light purple color. Spicy aromatic display of rose petals, mint, dusty earth, over deep cherries and raspberries. The acidity is so crisp, and frames the wine perfectly for dusty, fine tannins. Lots of depth and concentration, but there’s an airy elegance that pervades this wine. Cranberries, raspberries and cool cherries, such bright fruit, blended with complex loam, clay, warm black tea and cinnamon notes. THIs is really wonderful, but it does need lots of air to get going. Laying this down for a few years will yield a treasure. Insane value here. (93 points)

2017 The Federalist Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Bourbon Barrel Aged - California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $25
Deep purple color. Aromas of sweet plums, chocolate-covered raisins, coconut shavings, anise cookies. On the palate, this is plush and jammy with low acidity and a sweet, juicy style, with plums, black cherries, blackberries. Notes of coconut and mint chocolate chip offer lots of yumminess, and while a lot of these bourbon barrel reds can be way over the top, this one shows some nuance. Fun, fan-friendly stuff. All Cabernet aged six months in bourbon barrels. (85 points)

<85 points

2018 Cosentino Winery Zinfandel “Cigar” Old Vine Zinfandel - California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $20
Dark purple color. Smoky aromas with sweet, jammy, plummy fruit and sweet cocoa, crème brulee. Full and saucy on the palate with low acidity, and high-octane, jammy fruit (roasted figs, yogurt-covered raisins, and sweet blueberries). Smoky, charcoal, vanilla and cola flavors on top. This is too sweet and off-balance, but I can see why some folks might like it.

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: California Reds

I’m back this week with a diverse handful of newly-released California reds.

I’ve long been a fan of Adam Lee’s Siduri Pinot Noirs. It was purchased by Jackson Family a few years ago, but based on this and other tastings, I’ve found the aesthetic seems to be staying quite similar to what drew me to these wines in the first place. And while it’s Sonoma fruit Siduri is known best for, Adam Lee’s first wine was actually produced from Anderson Valley fruit, and it’s really cool to see the wines come full-circle and show so well.

Napa’s Frank Family comes through with a Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon that bring a lot of personality for wines in their respective price ranges. And Louis Martini’s Sonoma and Napa Cabernets show themselves as accessible, fun but also “serious” wines that offer lots of value.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2017 Cline Cellars Carignane Ancient Vines - California, San Francisco Bay, Contra Costa County
SRP: $23
Deep purple color. Aromas of sweet plums, black cherries (warm, mulled fruit) with cocoa, cola and sweet black pepper glaze. Full but fresh with suave tannins and medium acidity. Roasted plums and black cherries, the fruit is warm and rich, backed up with notes of spicy pepper, leather, coffee and charcoal grill. Fun, yummy, a solid choice to pair with pretty much anything that’s been grilled. All Carignane aged 12 months in French oak (35% new). (87 points)

2017 Siduri Pinot Noir Anderson Valley - California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $40
Deep ruby color. Bright and juicy nose of raspberries, red currants, cranberry sauce, with lots of roses, violets, rhubarb and wild herbs. Plum and juicy texture but lively acidity, with dusty-light tannins. Crisp raspberries, cherries, pomegranate, tangy and chilled, with rose petals, rhubarb, mint and cola elements. Fruity and fun, but elegant, spicy, lively. It’s good to see Siduri keeping things going in this style. A blend of three-vineyards around Boonville, aged 15 months in 35% new French oak. (90 points)

2017 Siduri Pinot Noir Edmeades - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $50

Medium ruby color. Lovely aromas of fresh cherries, raspberries and red plums, topped in cola, rhubarb, white pepper, violets, and some earthy-clay notes. Plush yet zesty on the palate with dusty tannins. Bountiful but crisp fruit (cherries, strawberries, raspberries), and I get notes of spiced tea, rhubarb, cola, violet petals and earth. Plump and fruity but vibrant and complex as well, this should do well with two or three years, but it’s very accessible now, too. From a block of Pommard clone in the Londer block of this vineyard, 50% whole cluster fermentation, aged 10 months in 33% new French oak. (92 points)

2016 Bear Flag Wine Zinfandel - California, Sonoma County
SRP: $30
Light purple color. The nose is juicy and sweet with black cherry, blueberry and raspberry jams, mixed with yummy notes of coffee, cola, sarsaparilla and vanilla. Full-bodied with smooth tannins and surprisingly fresh acidity. Lots of plums, raspberries, black cherries and blueberries, all cooked down into jams with notes of mint, sweet pipe tobacco and cola. Velvety, plush, fun, fan-friendly, but it also sports complexity and vibrancy. There’s this cool earthy, incense, pipe tobacco thing on the finish, too. Really yummy. (89 points)

2016 Frank Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $58
Bright purple color. Big and juicy on the nose with currants, plums and black cherries, suave and fruity but complex notes of eucalyptus, tobacco, mint and dark chocolate notes. Full-bodied on the palate with a warm, inviting feel; velvety tannins, medium acidity. Very pretty fruit (black cherries, currants, dark plums), dark but tangy, and it’s paired well with notes of mint, eucalyptus, tobacco and vanilla. Harmonious and smooth, accessible young but has the structure to hold for a while as well. Includes a combined 10% Merlot and Cabernet Franc, this spends 20 months in 1/3 new French oak. (91 points)  

2016 Frank Family Vineyards Zinfandel - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $38
Bright purple. Juicy, tangy aromas of cherries, plums and raspberries, with cola, mint, chewing tobacco and cracked pepper. Full but suave on the palate with velvety tannins and surprisingly fresh acidity. Jammy raspberries, cherries and plums, but the fruit shows a tangy edge, and it’s accented by notes of spicy mint, tobacco, black pepper, hints of espresso and vanilla. So fun to drink bow but this could age for a few years. Includes 9% Petite Sirah, this spends 16 months in 1/3 new French oak. (90 points) 

2016 Provenance Vineyards Deadeye - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $50
Deep purple color. The aromas are dark and deep (currants, blueberries, blackberries), with anise, cocoa, vanilla and spice rub notes. This is big, juicy and deep on the palate, a mouth-filling presence with velvety tannins and enough acidity to moderate things. Waves of dark, smooth fruit blend well with cocoa, mint, scorched earth, cedar and tobacco. Graphite and mineral elements on the finish. Big (15.5%) but it holds itself together very well. Sourced from fruit from St. Helena, Howell Mountain, Oakville and Spring Mountain, aged 18 months in French, American and Hungarian oak (50% new). (90 points)

 2016 Louis M. Martini Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $40
Medium purple color. The nose is sweet and inviting , with plums, black currants and fig paste, and notes of cedar, cocoa, coffee and scorched earth. Full-bodied with a bold presence on the palate, smooth tannins but they provide some grip, medium acidity. Flavors of juicy dark plums and blackberries (deep but the fruit has a nice tangy edge). Notes of cocoa, cedar, coffee grounds and mint add complexity. A nice warm, slightly earth aesthetic. This is really pleasant yet complex — Louis Martini’s Napa Cab is killer for the price. Aged 21 months in 30% new French and American oak. (90 points) 

2016 Louis M. Martini Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Sonoma County
SRP: $20
Light purple color. The nose shows plum sauce, black cherries and currants, warm but fresh fruit, mixed well with anise, cocoa, tobacco and vanilla. Full-bodied with a smooth, suave yet fresh appeal. Juicy and fresh black cherries, plum and cassis. Notes of tobacco, vanilla, clove and forest floor are woven in nicely. This is a really fun, accessible and early-drinking Cabernet, but complex, too, and consistently one of the better Cabs in this price range. Sourced from Frei Ranch and Barrelli Creek Vineyards, this includes some Petite Sirah, Petit Verdot and Merlot, aged 16 months in oak. (88 points)


This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: California New Releases

This week, I’ve got another roundup of new releases from all over California.

I recently tasted two new releases (an Albarino and a Gamay Noir) from Eighty Four wines. This Shafer side project, based in Carneros and named after the year in which Doug Shafer and winemaker Elias Fernandez began working together, has impressed me in the past, and these two wines continue that trend.

Well-known producer Cliff Lede’s new Sauv Blanc and Cab Sauv have a lot to offer, while Frank Family’s new Carneros Pinot and Chard consistently deliver.

South African-born winemaker Graham Weerts, who now makes his home in Sonoma, produced two solid wines under the Legacy label. And a few exciting wines from Lodi make an appearance in this report as well, including a thrilling, old-vine Carignan.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

Whites

2018 Beckmen Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc - California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
SRP: $20
Pale straw color. Nose shows lemon, grapefruit, along with verbena, lemongrass, musk, sea salt and light perfume. Lovely texture on the palate with vibrant acidity, and integrated creamy and honeyed lemons. Lemon, cantaloupe, green apples, the fruit is mixed with lemongrass, green onion and verbena, but this notes accent, they don’t dominate. Lovely Sauv Blanc for the price. All stainless steel, no maloactic fermentation. (88 points)

2018 Acquiesce Ingenue - California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $32
Light straw color. The nose is super tropical with white peaches, pineapple, papaya, lots of baby’s breath, honeysuckle and sliced cucumber notes as well. Crisp and bright on the palate with a nice mix of papaya, peaches, drizzled in lime. I get strong floral perfume, nettle, wild greed herb notes, too. Fun, fresh, with a crisp, spicy, salad-friendly appeal. 35% Grenache blanc, 35% Clairette Blanche, 20% Bourboulenc, 10% Piquepoul. (87 points)

2018 Cliff Lede Sauvignon Blanc - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $25
Light yellow color. A burst of aromas: lime, apricot, white peach, with salted almond, honeysuckle, chalk dust. On the palate, this is lively but creamy, with bright acidity supporting deep texture. The fruit (orange, apricot, lemon) is infused with some honeysuckle, sea salt, oyster shell – a really cool combo. The green elements in some Sauv Blancs are dialed back, and the pure, mineral, brightness really shines through, this is a beautiful Napa Sauv Blanc, and really exciting for the price. Fermented in a mix of French oak, stainless steel and concrete eggs, this includes 10% Sémillon, 3% Sauvignon Vert. (91 points)

2018 Eighty Four Wines Albariño - California, Napa, Carneros
SRP: $28
Light yellow color. Lively aromas of yellow flowers, honey, sea salt, with lemon, apricot and white peach. Medium+ bodied, really fresh and inviting with pleasant texture and crisp, lip-smacking acidity. Lemon curd, apricot and white peach fruit mixes nicely with chalk dust, salted almond, hints of mint and basil. Lovely depth yet this is s vibrant and gluggable, a great wine to drink all Spring and Summer. This spends four months on the lees in stainless steel (no oak, no maloactic fermentation). (89 points)

2017 Frank Family Vineyards Chardonnay - California, Napa/Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $38
Rich yellow color. Aromas of lemon curd, apricot jam, baked apple, with nougat, honey, salted almond and fresh biscuits. Juicy and plum on the palate with rich texture and medium acidity. Flavors of glazed pear, apricot, orange marmalade, along with notes of almonds, sea salt, honey butter, biscuits and ginger. Warm yet fresh, bold but nuanced. A fine Carneros Chardonnay, as to be expected from Frank Family. Aged nine months in a third new French oak. (90 points)

2015 Legacy Chardonnay - California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley
SRP: $75
Rich, almost neon color. Nose of buttered popcorn, peanut shells, on top of baked apple, orange marmalade, with ginger, almond cake, sea salt notes. Rich, bold, waxy, honeyed, this is full-throttle in style, but it has freshness underneath, too. Warm and nutty with buttered popcorn, salted almond, peanut brittle, with apricot and yellow apple fruit. Big and luscious but well-made with underlying perfume and floral notes. Fermented and aged 12 months in French oak, 37% new. (89 points) 

Reds

2016 Prie Vineyards Carignane Ancient Vine Spenker Ranch Vineyards - California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $29
Bright ruby color. Gorgeous nose: raspberries, red cherries, strawberries, topped in spiced tea, rhubarb, clay, dusty earth, an elegant, evolving aromatic display. Medium/full-bodied with smooth tannins and vibrant acidity, the balance is lovely. Strawberries, cherries, raspberries, crunchy yet deep fruit with elements of spiced tea, rhubarb, anise, tilled soil, herbs and rose petals. Complex, elegant, wow, this is really impressive stuff. (92 points)

2016 Mettler Family Vineyards Pinotage - California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $25
Bright purple color. Nose shows saucy black cherries, roasted plums, raspberry jam with anise, sweet chai, dark chocolate. On the palate, this is velvety and smooth with fresh acidity and tart but sweet fruit (fig paste, roasted plums, black cherry jam), with anise, earth and cedar notes. This is fun, juicy, spicy stuff, and a rare iteration of California Pinotage that is worth checking out. (87 points)

2017 Eighty Four Wines Gamay Noir - California, Napa Valley, Carneros
SRP: $35
Deep ruby color. Aromas of raspberries, fresh cherries, along with violets, spiced tea, clove, earthy-charcoal notes. Full-bodied (14.9%) with dusty, smooth tannins and refreshing acidity. The fruit is ripe and juicy (raspberries, black cherries), and touched with notes of miner, violets, earth, along with some cola and birch notes. Lots of fun, but the complexity and depth are in here, too. I’m a big supported of American growers working with Gamay, and it seems this producer has found quite the spot for it. The first vintage of this wine, and they’re off to a great start. Aged 14 months in 40% new French oak barrels. (90 points)

2017 Frank Family Vineyards Pinot Noir - California, Napa/Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $38
Deep ruby color. Nose of raspberries, cherries, plums, juicy and rich but spicy and lively, too, along with notes of clove, rose petals, rhubarb, cola and cedar woven in well. Full but fresh on the palate with velvety tannins and moderating acidity. Juicy raspberry, red plum, cherry pie, rich fruit but lively and nuanced. Notes of rhubarb, violets, clove, cola and spiced black tea. Velvety and fruit-forward, but also nicely balanced and integrated. Aged 10 months in one-third new French oak. (90 points)

2016 Rombauer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $65
Bright purple color. Aromas of juicy, warm black cherries and cassis, laced with lavender, clove, coffee, earth, touched with cedar and vanilla. Full-bodied with a velvety, slightly chewy mouthfeel, but clean, refreshing acidity keeps it lively. Cassis, black cherries and plums are mixed with a good amount of espresso, mint, lavender, bay leaf scorched earth – really nice mix of flavors. An underlying rocky/mineral element underneath, rich but lively. Drinking well now but could age. Includes 8% Petit Verdot and 5% Cabernet Franc, aged 16 months in 80% new French oak. (90 points)

2016 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon One Point Five - California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District
SRP: $95
Deep purple color. The fruit is deep but tart on the nose, with waves of black currants and blueberries, laced with spicy pipe tobacco, violets, earth, mint, clove, vanilla. Full and velvety on the palate, serious structure but it’s smooth, and the acidity is quite fresh, keeping it vibrant. Laced with complex tobacco, dusty earth, with clove, earth, lavender, vanilla, cedar. An underlying graphite and mineral element that is so good. Just gorgeous now, but it will be a real treat with age. All Cabernet that spends 20 months in 100% new French oak. (94 points)

2016 Cliff Lede Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District - California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District
SRP: $78
Really bright purple color. Nose boasts black currants, cassis, plums, rich and loaded but mixed with a host of coffee, cocoa, anise, mint chocolate chip, roasted herbs and graphite. Full-bodied and big on the palate (15.2%) but it’s built well with solid grip, enough acidity to hold it all together. Rich and velvety with waves of plums, black cherries and blueberries. The fruit is mixed with complex earth, graphite, iron, anise, along with coffee, mint chocolate chip and cedar. Accessible and delicious now but plenty of time ahead. Includes 11% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc, aged 21 months in about half-new French oak. (92 points)

2013 Legacy Winery Legacy Red Wine - California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley
SRP: $100
Medium purple color. Deep, gorgeous nose of cassis and black currants, laced with a complex mix of earthy, smoky savory notes (charcoal, mesquite, grilled meat, black olive, pepper) with notes, also some vanilla, cedar. Structured but velvety on the palate, full but fresh, with moderating acidity. Rich blackberry and tart black currant fruit, topped with generous notes of charcoal, graphite, bay leaf, pepper, earth — the savory and spicy elements in here are lovely. I think age has really done wonders for this wine already, but it has many years of evolution ahead. 87% Cabernet Sauvignon with Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot, aged 26 months in 62% new French oak. (93 points)


This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: International Grab Bag

This week we’re focusing on a bunch of wines from all over the world. Most of these wines are inexpensive, easy-drinking wines designed for early consumption, but there are some really impressive bottles in the mix.

We have some solid values from Côtes du Rhône, four interesting wines from the Spanish region of Cariñena, and a few more from Arinzano, a Spanish winery in Aragon that has a D.O. Pago designation and excellent wines to justify it. We also have a few others from Italy, Australia and Argentina thrown into the mix.  

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2016 Trivento Torrontés White Orchid Reserve - Argentina, Mendoza

SRP: $11

Medium straw color. As the name would suggest, this is super floral on the nose, all sorts of white and yellow flowers along with lychee, peach and guava nectar. Light/medium-bodied with some tropical juiciness and moderate acidity. Lots of lychee and apricot with some lime juice, the fruit is laced with perfume and all sorts of orange and pear blossoms. Great picnic or party wine for the lover of floral white wines. A blend of Torrontes and 15% Pinot Gris. (86 points)

2015 Penfolds Shiraz Cabernet Max’s - Australia, South Australia

SRP: $25

Deep purple color. Aromas of blackberries and tart blueberry with some spiced coffee, pepper, and vanilla and cedar notes that are blended in well. Plump and juicy on the palate with some light/medium tannins and some moderate acidity, which helps keep it going. Black cherries and blueberry fruit is bold but stays vibrant, and the fruit is matched with notes of cracked pepper and espresso. Delicious but also nicely structured. 70/30 Shiraz/Cabernet aged 12 months in French and American oak. (87 points)

2015 Penfolds Cabernet Sauvignon Max’s - Australia, South Australia

SRP: $25

Deep purple color. Smells like tart black cherries and some blackberry jam along with black pepper, coffee grounds and sweet eucalyptus. Full-bodied, chewy texture, medium/low acidity, approachable but some decent structure. Black cherries and blackberries, gushing fruit, a little tartness to it though, along with loamy soil, dark chocolate and cedar shavings. A fun, accessible Shiraz but shows some structure and depth. Aged 12 months in 10% new French oak.  (87 points)

2016 Concha y Toro Rosé Casillero del Diablo - Chile

SRP: $11

Pale pink color. Fruity and fresh on the nose with strawberries, rose petals, hints of white pepper. Medium-bodied with bright acidity and fresh fruit (strawberries, white cherries, red apple peel). This nationally-available rose is reliable, simple, fun. Syrah with some Cinsault and Carmenere. (85 points)

2016 Ferraton Père & Fils Côtes du Rhône Blanc Samorëns - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône

SRP: $14

Medium yellow color. Aromas of peaches, apricots and limes with a white floral notes of honeysuckle and baby’s breath. Medium-bodied, slight creaminess but fresh acidity. This wine is packed with apricot and peach, and topped in some sea salt, honeysuckle, nettle, sliced cucumber. Good weight/freshness balance, a pleasant summer sipper for sure. A blend of Roussanne, Viognier, Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Marsanne. (87 points)

2016 Ferraton Père & Fils Côtes du Rhône Rosé Samorëns - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône

SRP: $14

Light pink. Nose of wild strawberries, white cherries, floral perfume, some lemongrass and white pepper. Crisp and vibrant with plump texture and fresh acidity. Tangy white cherries and bright strawberries, lots of white pepper, spicy herbs, honeysuckle and roses. A lot going on for the price. A blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 20% Cinsault. (87 points)

2015 Castello di Gabbiano Dark Knight - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

SRP: $17

Deep ruby color. Aromas of plum cake, red currant, sweet cherry, vanilla and cedar. Medium/full-bodied with moderate tannins and acidity. Juicy black cherries and saucy blackberry fruit mixes with tobacco, cedar, vanilla and bitter chocolate. Fun stuff but impressive structure. Cabernet Sauvignon with 30% Merlot and 20% Sangiovese, this is the debut vintage of this wine from Gabbiano. (87 points)

2016 Contrade Malvasia-Chardonnay - Italy, Puglia, Puglia IGT

SRP: $10

Medium straw color. Tons of tropical flowers and fruit blossoms on the nose with some kiwi and guava, too. Juicy, tropical, creamy, dry with some moderate acidity. Pineapple and mango fruit, drizzled with lime, and lots of floral perfume freshness. Not super complex but it does what it does very well. 90% Malvasia and 10% Chardonnay. (86 points)

2015 Contrade Negroamaro - Italy, Puglia, Puglia IGT

SRP: $10

Rich purple color. Dark and saucy aromas with juicy but spicy black fruit, some charcoal and smoke, grilled herb and sweet vanilla notes. Medium-bodied, smooth tannins but they provide some structure, moderate-low acidity. This is a chewy, fun wine with rich blackberry and black cherry fruit, backed up by some smoky herbs, roasted chestnut and vanilla. Good introduction to this grape, this seems made for a wide audience. (86 points)

2014 Bodegas San Valero Particular - Spain, Aragón, Cariñena

SRP: $15

Deep ruby color. Dark cherries and tart blackberries with lots of spicy and earthy complexity (pepper, olive, soy, violets). Medium+ bodied with suave appeal and dusty tannins, medium acidity. Tart black cherries and roasted plum fruit mixes well with notes of smoke, teriyaki, pepper, violets. Lots of fun but also impressive depth. 100% Cariñena. (88 points)

2013 Grandes Vinos y Viñedos Corona de Aragon Special Selection - Spain, Aragón, Cariñena

SRP: $14

Rich, deep ruby color. Aromas of tar red and black cherries and plums, incense sticks, tobacco and some clay earth. Medium-bodied with light but slightly bitter tannins and moderate acidity. Tart red and black plums meet bell pepper, cracked black pepper and soy sauce. A hint of sharpness but still rather pleasant, although not too complex. A blend of Cariñena and Garnacha. (85 points)

2014 3C Cariñena Premium Selection - Spain, Aragón, Cariñena

SRP: $10

Light purple color. Spicy black cherries and raspberries on the nose with roasted herbs, pepper, some sweet roses and coffee notes. Bold and juicy on the palate but nice freshness and moderate tannins. Crunchy plums and tart black cherry with loads of pepper, clove and cinnamon and some sweet herbal tones. Delicious texture, structured but fresh and easy to sip. 100% Cariñena. (88 points)

2015 Bodegas Paniza Cariñena - Spain, Aragón, Cariñena

SRP: $10

Light purple color. Strawberry and raspberries, darker roasted plum notes, including spicy herbs, sweet and savory notes. Juicy and fresh on the palate with light tannins, but enough for some structure, moderate acidity. Tart raspberry and black cherries mixes with some raspberry cheesecake topping, notes of black pepper, roasted herbs, spiced coffee. Fresh and easy drinking, this is a great cookout wine that should please many palates. 100% Cariñena. (87 points)

2016 Arinzano Hacienda de Arinzan Rosé - Spain, Navarra, Arinzano

SRP: $20

A deep watermelon color. Bright aromatic display of white flowers and dandelion but some darker cherry and strawberry jam richness as well, hints of pepper and tobacco. On the palate, this is richly-textured (14% alcohol), but some vibrant acidity keeps it balanced. Flavors of watermelon, ripe strawberry, red apple peel, laced with white pepper, tobacco, flower stems and green herbs. Bold but vibrant, complex and so, so delicious. 100% Tempranillo. (90 points)

2014 Arinzano Hacienda de Arinzano White - Spain, Navarra, Arinzano

SRP: $20

100% Chardonnay. Medium yellow color. Bright and vibrant aromas but also a lot of richness, with lemon curd, juicy apples, tart pears, integrated almond and cedar notes with sea spray and chalk. Plush texture but vibrant acidity on the palate, richer baked pear notes blend so well with lemon curd and tart green apple. Notes of floral perfume, minerals, chalk, also some nougat and honey. Complex, elegant, delicious, this is so good, but will get better. 40% maloactic fermentation, some new and old French oak. (90 points)

2012 Arinzano Hacienda de Arinzano Tinto - Spain, Navarra, Arinzano

SRP: $20

Rich purple color. Gorgeous nose of currants and red plums along with incense, charcoal, rose petal, lots of clay, tilled soil and tobacco barn notes – fascinating to sniff. Grippy tannic structure but such fresh acidity, it’s all pure and balanced. Raspberry mixes with red and black currant and the fruit is layered with pipe tobacco, eucalyptus, pepper, lots of earthy/spice and pine resin. Complexity is wonderful but it’s also so vibrant and easy to drink. Delicious now, but this could improve for more than a few years. A stunner at the price. (92 points)

2008 Arinzano Arinzano La Casona - Spain, Navarra, Arinzano

SRP: $40

Dark ruby color. Gorgeous aromatic display: humidor, mint, sage, rich earth, on top of bold but tangy currants and cherries. On the palate this is full and structured with solid grip from the tannins and pretty, vibrant acidity. Black cherry and red currant fruit, lively and refreshing fruit, and complex non-fruit elements: cigar smoke, charcoal, forest floor, tobacco, cedar, graphite. A blend of 75% Tempranillo and 25% Merlot, aged 14 months in 40% new French oak and then seven years in bottle. This has 5-8 years ahead of it easily, but gorgeous now, especially with lots of air. (92 points)

<85 points

N.V. Le Grande Courtâge Grande Cuvee Blanc de Blancs Brut - France

SRP: $18

Pale straw color. Smells of under-ripe green grapes, some chalk dust, bitter lemon and grapefruit pith. Tart and zesty on the palate with some white cherry, sour green apple and a cut floral stem note. Quite sharp, a bit too much bitter lemon and austerity for my palate. A blend of Chardonnay, Ugni Blanc, Colombard and Chenin Blanc. 

N.V. Le Grand Courtage Grande Cuvee Brut Rose - France

SRP: $18

Pale salmon color. Aromas of rose bush, sour cherries and under-ripe strawberries. Tart and brisk on the palate with foamy bubbles. Sour white cherries, under-ripe strawberries, the fruit mixes with notes of nettle and bell pepper. Unbalanced and quite weird. A blend of Chardonnay, Ugni Blanc and Gamay. 

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Showcasing Diverse Single Vineyards with California's Onward Wines

Faith Armstrong Foster. Credit: Onward Wines

Faith Armstrong Foster is a UC Davis-educated winemaker who earned her winemaking chops in Napa, but the vineyards that attract her rest well off the beaten path.

Her Onward Wines brand, she explains, is about highlighting unique and fascinating sites in order to craft single-vineyard, single-variety wines. “The whole brand is about showcasing growers, and what they’re doing,” Faith said during a recent online chat and tasting.

It would perhaps be more accurate to describe these as “single-block” wines, as her contracts with growers relate to a specific part of each vineyard, meaning she deals with the same section of vines each vintage. “It’s about a particular part of a vineyard,” she said, which allows her to work with the grower on specific farming methods to suit the vines.

Her vineyard sources are diverse, spanning many appellations and microclimates. She makes several different Malvasias from a site called Capp-Inn Ranch in the Suisun Valley, located two valleys inland from Napa. East of Carneros, she described this site as similar in soil and climate to fruit she’s worked with in Carneros, and the result is a crisp, refreshing style of Malvasia with loads of floral and tropical fruit notes.

Faith also sources what is clearly some stellar Pinot Noir from a site called Hawkeye Ranch in Mendocino’s Redwood Valley appellation. The Redwood Valley is one of those Wild West kind of appellations, sparsely populated with vines, lacking big tasting rooms or tourist traps. I’ve traveled extensively in this area of Mendocino, and it absolutely gorgeous. Small, usually organically farmed, vineyards are nestled among untouched redwood groves, cold streams and the occasional pear orchard. She enjoys working with this site because, as she puts it, the lack of grapevine monoculture means the vineyard, “has a lot of capacity to maintain natural balance.” And she makes three different wines from this same site: a rosé, a still red and a rosé Petillant Naturel sparkling wine.

Lasty, I tasted her Casa Roja Carignan, a sandy soil site in Contra Costa County. These ancient vines, planted in the late 1800s, impart a deep sense of spicy minerality and exotic complexity. For the price, the wine is a stunning example of what this grape (an historic staple of California winegrowing) can do. Faith has several other wines in her portfolio that I haven’t tasted (but would love to) including a Cerise Vineyard Pinot Noir, a Redwood Valley Zinfandel, and a few others.

Overall, Faith’s wines take a minimalist approach, with quite low alcohol levels, brisk acidity, tart but tasty fruit, and a host of non-fruit elements that make the wines really pop. They are as delicious as they are fascinating.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2016 Onward Wines Malvasia Bianca Petillant Naturel Capp-Inn Ranch - California, North Coast, Suisun Valley
SRP: $24
Pale lemon color with lovely faint bubbles. Complex floral aromas (baby’s breath, orange blossom, honeysuckle) on top of guava, white peach and lime zest. Crisp, bright and nervy palate with a slight salty, chalky mouthfeel and a refreshing tingle from the bubbles. Brisk and bright with orange pith, lemon wedge and so many floral elements: dandelion, orange blossom, clean laundry, potpourri. Tons of fun. (89 points)

2016 Onward Wines Malvasia Bianca Capp-Inn Ranch - California, North Coast, Suisun Valley
SRP: $20
Pale lemon color. Bursts with aromas of guava, lychee, white grape jelly and lots of spicy floral elements. Medium-bodied with crisp acidity and flavors of juicy peaches and lychee with lime drizzled on top. So many floral elements: baby’s breath, dandelion, buttercups, honeysuckle. So, so floral, but it’s not one-dimensional. Crisp finish. (88 points)

2016 Onward Wines Pinot Noir Rosé Hawkeye Ranch - California, North Coast, Redwood Valley
SRP: $22
Pale copper color. Bright and fresh aromas of yellow and white flowers, cantaloupe, lime and wild strawberry. Zippy on the palate with a bright personality but some creamy, chalky textural elements. White flower potpourri, saline and white pepper top the tart strawberry fruit. Light but not simple, this has a bright mineral presence and long floral elements on the finish. (88 points)

2013 Onward Wines Pinot Noir Hawkeye Ranch - California, North Coast, Redwood Valley
SRP: $38
Vibrant ruby color. Aromas of crisp strawberries, raspberries, rose hips, with rhubarb and mushroom notes. On the palate this is crisp and lean at 12% but shows some dusty tannic backbone and crackling acidity. Juicy cherry and raspberry fruit mixes with rhubarb, sage, tar, gravelly earth. Brisk but enough depth, personality and complexity to pull it off, makes to entice the cellar for 2-5 years. Wow. (92 points)

2014 Onward Wines Carignan Casa Roja - California, San Francisco Bay, Contra Costa County
SRP: $30
Neon purple color. Gushing aromas of black cherries, red and black currant, tart blueberry, along with loamy soil, steak rub, coffee grounds. Full-bodied with some solid grip to the tannins but the acidity really helps a lot. Roasted plum, blueberry and black cherry fruit laced with tar, roasted chestnut, charcoal smoke. Complex, savory, spicy, really beautiful stuff with a long finish. This should do cool stuff over the next 3-4 years. (91 points)

Wine Reviews: Languedoc-Roussillon Wines <$20

The Languedoc-Roussillon region is vast, beautiful and covered
in vines. Long a source of bulk wine, many winemakers today are
focusing on terroir and value, giving consumers lots of options.

I spent five days in January touring the Languedoc-Roussillon region, meeting winemakers and tasting through a slew of organic wines from the region. I’ll have more posts about my trip in the coming days and weeks, but in the meantime, here are some reviews of Languedoc-Roussillon wines I tasted before my trip. Like many wines from the region, they all retail for about $20 or less.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2012 Calmel + J Joseph Chardonnay Villa Blanche - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Vin de Pays d'Oc

SRP: $13

A medium gold color in the glass. Aromas of whipped honey, white flowers, chamomile tea, green and yellow pear. On the palate, this wine shows medium acid on a medium-bodied frame. The green pear and honeydew flavors are light, matched with up by notes of chamomile tea, honey and lemon. A sea shell note lingers onto the finish. I like the flavors, but I don’t get a lot of depth out of this wine. (85 points)

2010 Mas de Guiot Vin de Pays du Gard Cabernet-Syrah - France, Languedoc, Vin de Pays du Gard

SRP: $15

The nose is full of sweet red and black currant fruit, mixed in with some pepper. Juicy currant and plum fruit leads the way on the palate, with fine-grained tannins offering a bit of support along with medium acid. Roasted coffee and toasted oak flavors add to the overall easy-drinking approach. (86 points)

2011 Mas de Guiot Vin de Pays du Gard Grenache-Syrah - France, Languedoc, Vin de Pays du Gard

SRP: $10

Aromas of leather, roasted lamb and pepper over top of juicy plums. The tannins have a bit of grip and the acid shows through. Blueberry mixes with plums, and the rich fruit is backed up by pepper and soy flavors. A generously fruity wine, but it shows a lot of rustic, earthy flavors that make me crave burgers or lamb chops. Despite the “Grenache-Syrah” label this is 60% Syrah and 40% Grenache. (87 points)

2011 Domaine Sainte-Eugénie Corbières - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Corbières

SRP: $15

A bright medium ruby color Aromas of bright red plums and currants, some red apple peel, and lots of earthy-spicy aromas. On the palate, the fine-silky tannins a whole lot of freshness from the acid. Nice cracked pepper, meat and earthy flavors. Tasty stuff, probably more of a near-term drinker. I’d love to open this with some roasted lamb and veg. (87 points)

2011 Domaine Sainte-Eugénie Corbières La Réserve - France, Languedoc, Corbières

SRP: $20

On the nose, beef, pepper and charcoal blend in with blackberry and currant fruit. Juicy and fresh in its approach, with fine tannins and medium+ acid. Red cherries and currants, along with black pepper, dried Provencal herbs and charcoal, a bit of beef. Sleek and drinking perfectly well now. (87 points)

2012 Domaine Sainte-Eugénie Vin de Pays d'Hauterive Le Clos - France, Languedoc, Vin de Pays d'Hauterive

SRP: $11

Snappy cherries and raspberries on the nose, bright red flowers and some pepper. Tart on the palate, with grainy tannins supporting the cherry and red currant fruit. Some loamy, dusty notes on the finish. Not very complex, but fresh and definitely food-friendly. 45% Merlot, 20% Carignan, 20% Grenache and 15% Cabernet. (86 points)

2011 Calmel + J Joseph Faugères - France, Languedoc, Faugères

SRP: $15

A smoky nose, like charcoal, hot asphalt over top of the red and black plum fruit, currant skins, dried flowers, leather. On the palate, the freshness is very nice, firm but manageable tannins, some crispness from the acid. Dark plum, currant and pomegranate fruit is snappy but smoky. I like the charcoal, chestnut and black pepper notes. A blend of 50% Syrah, 30% Grenache and 20% Carignan. (87 points)

2011 Calmel + J Joseph Saint-Chinian - France, Languedoc, Saint-Chinian

SRP: $13

Aromas of juicy blackberries and plums, smoke, sweet lavender, charcoal. Nice grip to the tannins, pervasive freshness, it forms a silky texture. Darker and more structured than the 2011 Faugeres, this wine shows rich blackberry and currant fruit, mixed in with a hefty dose of pepper, dusty soil and smoke. A nice kick of lavender and rosemary on the finish. Full and plush, but there’s a lot going on in here. 60% Syrah, 30% Grenache and 10% Carignan. (89 points)

2011 Calmel + J Joseph Vin de Pays des Côtes de Brian Vieux Carignan - France, Languedoc, Vin de Pays des Côtes de Brian

SRP: $19

Clear bold purple color. Black cherries and blackberries on the nose, with some dust notes, pencil shavings and tree bark, as weird as that may sound. Firm but fine tannins and medium acid, creamy mouthfeel. Lots of dark roasted plums and blackberries, earthy and inky notes, some pepper, capers and anise. Dark and peppery with some well-integrated toast. A lot going on here with this vin de pays Carignan. (89 points)

This report was first published in the daily wine blog Terroirist.