Winding Down a Year of Pinot Noir

In 2012 I tasted more pinot noir than any other wine. Out of the nearly 700 wines I wrote down, 107 were pinot noir, and that doesn't even include Champagne and other sparkling wines that often contain a certain percentage of pinot noir.

Basically, what I'm saying is: I love pinot noir. And you should too.

I wrapped up 2012 with four different pinot noirs from four different regions. Each bottle was yummy, and, taken as a whole, they demonstrate the inexhaustibility of good pinot noir.

2005 Coelho Winery Pinot Noir Paciência
(Oregon, Willamette Valley)
It's got this pretty, Burgundian look, very clear and bright. A burst of bright, sweet strawberries, red licorice and tons of dried roses on the nose. What a nose, especially with a few hours open. On the palate, the fine tannins and bright acid combine to form a really silky mouthfeel. Snappy red cranberries meet potting soil and rhubarb flavors. There's a kick of dill that carries onto the finish, which I really enjoy. A very brisk pinot. It's got the bright red fruit and acid of a Beaune red, but some nice Willamette Valley love. While I really like this, I'm not sure I'd age it for more than two more years. 89 points

2009 Dept. C Pinot Noir Paraiso Vineyard
(California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands)
I really liked this pinot noir's more nuanced approach. Aromas of smoky red fruit, toast, raspberry jam and a hint of lavender. Full of sappy red fruit on the palate (sour cherry, pomegranate), and some savory herbs as well. Full but not cloying. Seems like it could improve well over the next three or so years. 88 points

2009 Joseph Drouhin Chorey-les-Beaune
(France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chorey-les-Beaune)
Medium ruby colored. Nose isn't too exciting, showing sweet cherries, raspberries and hints of earth. On the palate, this pinot shows bright, tangy red fruit, like cranberries and sour cherries, mixed in with some sweet strawberries. Mediuim tannins, medium acid, medium depth. It's a fun pinot, but lacking a bit of verve or excitement to get me really into it. Some nice toast and mocha on the finish. Maybe time will help a bit? On sale for $22, not a bad buy. 86 points

2009 Domaine David Clark Côte de Nuits Villages
(France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Côte de Nuits Villages)
As far as $30 Burgundies go, this is actually really good. I really liked the 2008, and I think I like this even better. Aromas of smoky red cherries, rose petals and mushrooms. On the palate, this is light and elegant, yet generous in its flavors. Bright cherry fruit for structure, fresh acid, fine tannins and loads of seconday earthy and mushroom flavors. Delicious stuff that I'd like to revisit in two or three years. 90 points

2013 is now here, and I’m really looking forward to drinking more delicious pinot noirs this year. Hope you’re planning to do the same. Cheers!

There's No Such Thing as Hell, but You Can Make It If You Try: A Review of Rob Bell's Book "Love Wins"

“There’s no such thing as hell, but you can make it if you try.” So says Greg Graffin, singer-songwriter of the L.A. punk band Bad Religion. Those lyrics came to mind more than once as I was reading Rob Bell’s book “Love Wins: A Book About Heaven, Hell, and the Fate of Every Person Who Ever Lived.”

This Rob Bell guy is an interesting fellow. He’s definitely a Christian, and I’d call him an evangelical Christian, because he clearly wants to spread the message of Jesus. But Bell displays a sense of skepticism and a questioning mind that is incredibly rare among evangelical Christian writers.

Basically, Bell wants to let self-identified followers of Jesus to know that it’s OK to doubt or disbelieve the conventional Christian notions of the afterlife. He doesn’t reject heaven and hell outright, he just pokes holes in the mainstream conceptions of these two “places.” 

“Somewhere along the way [Christians] were taught that the only option when it comes to Christian faith is to clearly declare that a few, committed Christians will go to heaven when they die and everyone else will not, the matter is settled at death, and that’s it.” Bell continues: “Not all Christians have believed this, and you don’t have to believe it to be a Christian. The Christian faith is big enough, wide enough, and generous enough to handle that vast a range of perspectives.”

Wait… What?

But Bell is right. Heaven and hell are concepts that have evolved over long periods of time within various Christian communities. By quoting extensively from the Bible, Bell shows that the prophets, Jesus, the Apostle Paul and others have all sorts of different perspectives on heaven and hell, none of which are perfectly clear.

Bell’s questioning continues: “Have billions of people been created only to spend eternity in conscious punishment and torment, suffering infinitely for the finite sins they committed in the few years they spent on earth?”  

See, I’ve never believed in hell, neither fire, nor brimstone. I grew up in the Episcopalian Church, and I honestly cannot remember ever sitting in the pew hearing Father Ken preach about damnation and torture. There was a lot about the Sermon on the Mount, and a lot about grace and forgiveness, but not eternal punishment. Later, when my parents moved into a Baptist church, and even later into non-denominational evangelical churches, I heard more and more about this notion that most people I knew would end up being tortured for eternity. Death, darkness, misery, fire, gnashing of teeth…  stuck forever in a world like the cover of a Cannibal Corpse album.

For a long time I’ve believed that if a specific faith cannot survive without the element of eternal punishment for nonbelievers, then that faith is misguided. I’ve got plenty of rational reasons not to believe what I was taught in Sunday school. But on an emotional — let’s even call it spiritual, level — I’m sickened by the idea of a god and his followers forever rejoicing while nonbelievers are damned to perpetual misery. If my only problem with Christianity was that it requires damnation for its opponents, that alone would be enough for me to reject the faith entirely. I don’t respond well to threats. (Of course, there’s no evidence of an afterlife, no evidence that consciousness extends past death and the deterioration of the brain, so my point isn’t much of a point.)

Bell also rejects the idea of hell as a place of eternal damnation: “Telling a story in which billions of people spend forever somewhere in the universe trapped in a black hole of endless torment and misery with no way out isn’t a very good story.” Preach it, brother! “Telling a story about a God who inflicts unrelenting punishment on people  because they didn’t do or say or believe the correct things in a brief window of time called life isn’t a good story.” Bell, who is prone to repeating himself, tells readers many times to reject the image of god as vengeful arbiter of damnation. That god, if he existed, would not be deserving of praise or admiration, but scorn.

Blind Tasting Oregon and California Pinot Noirs

It’s a whole lot of fun to taste wines blind, especially when the wines run a range of prices. You don’t know who made the wine or what the wine costs, so your subconscious can’t factor those elements into the equation. Blind tasting is just you, your senses and the wine, and all you can do is focus on how those three things interact.

To help out my friends at Terroirist.com, I tasted through a dozen or so pinot noirs from Oregon and California. All of the wines were newly-released trade samples, and they were all tasted blind, meaning I didn’t know anything except that they were American pinot noirs. After writing my full tasting note and scoring the wines, I unveiled them. Then I checked their prices on Wine-Searcher, a wine sales aggregator, and included the average price.

As all blind tastings are, this exercise was educational and enlightening, and these wines demonstrate the range of styles and flavors available from domestic pinot noir.

Here’s my report…

2010 Van Duzer Pinot Noir Estate Oregon, Willamette Valley ($30)
Pretty cherry color. Aromas of blackberries and cherries, along with rich loam and a distinct musk and herbal tinge. Dry tannins and lots of fresh acid provide a solid background for the ripe plum and strawberry flavors. Cedar and pepper linger onto the finish. I imagine this would be more expressive in a year or two, but it's still quite impressive. (88 points)

2010 Stepping Stone by Cornerstone Pinot Noir Oregon, Willamette Valley ($30)
Dark ruby color. Gushing cherries on the nose. Also very floral , like a potpourri of dried roses, and hints of earth. On the palate, cherry and red licorice lead the way to some rose petals, tobacco and beef flavors. The acid is really pretty and it keeps the wine balanced in the face of grainy tannins. It seems approachable now, but I'd like to see what five years would do for some of those savory-herbal elements. (89 points)

2010 Cornerstone Cellars Pinot Noir Oregon, Willamette Valley ($26)
Bright purple colored. Explosive aromas of cherry pie filling, brown sugar and black pepper. The palate shows bright acid, very rich cherry fruit, and a nice kick of pepper. The toasty oak adds a real richness to this wine, and it borders on the extreme end of the oak spectrum. That said, the fine tannins and solid fruit hold up well against the oak. (87 points)

2009 Stoller Pinot Noir JV Estate Oregon, Willamette Valley, Dundee Hills ($24)

Bright cherry colored with a tiny hint of spritz. More strawberry and cherry fruit on the nose than the other wines, with some vanilla coke as well. A nice kick of dill and sage linger on the nose. On the palate, this is fresh and light, with an approachable personality. Really pure flavors of cherry and raspberry, but there's some sage and pepper flavors that add complexity. An undeniably tasty pinot. (89 points)

2010 Robert Mondavi Winery Pinot Noir California, Napa, Carneros ($23)

Dark and deep on the nose, showing black cherries and plums along with a hint of anise. Fine tannins and medium-to-low acid on the palate. Flavors of sweet plum, cassis and red licorice, beefed up with toasted oak. Hints of chocolate linger on the finish. Big, hedonistic and very toasty. (85 points)

2009 Inman Family Pinot Noir Olivet Grange Vineyard California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley ($60)
Light ruby color. The burst of rhubarb and white pepper on the nose is really interesting. Underneath, aromas of raspberry jam, wild strawberry and rose petals. The acid on this wine is really superb, giving the wine incredible freshness for a New World pinot. Raspberry and wild strawberry fruit flavors blend nicely with white pepper and incense. Medium-to-fine grained tannins provide structure. Long, zesty finish. It would probably benefit from a few hours in the decanter or a few more years in the cellar, but this is a beautiful and elegant young pinot. (91 points)

2011 Hahn Estates Pinot Noir California ($13)
Pretty cherry color, very clear. Soft and inviting on the nose with cherry cola, rose petals and rich soil. Fine-grained tannins and just below medium acid. Juicy flavors of cherry preserves, red plums along with that same rich soil note that’s so nice on the nose. Sweet cherry, earth and mocha carry the finish. A big, fruity pinot with decent structure. (86 points)

2010 Gainey Pinot Noir California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills ($29)
Raspberry jam colored. Lots of cedar on the nose, along with raspberry and sour cherries. On the palate, a burst of sour cherry fruit and acid leads the way to a richer, blackberry flavor, along with some vanilla and toasted oak. Very pretty, with medium-grain tannins and a Thanksgiving dinner-like finish of cranberry sauce and pepper. It has a unique sense of purity and balance. (90 points)

2010 Hahn Estates Pinot Noir SLH California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands ($29)
Vibrant red plum color. Plum skins and cherry jam on the nose, mixed in with a sweet, almost molasses-like aroma. On the palate, the wine is surprisingly smooth, with tannins like satin and medium acid providing a soft background for the bright red and black fruit. Notes of baker’s chocolate, coffee and coconut-toasty oak round out the finish. Unashamedly delicious. Very silky, but the structure hints that it could last a few years. (88 points)

This single-vineyard pinot from Breggo was my favorite of the lot.
Even when blind tasted, Anderson Valley pinot noir comes out on top.

2010 Breggo Cellars Pinot Noir Savoy Vineyard California, North Coast, Anderson Valley ($60)
Medium ruby colored. Aromatically, this wine explodes with sweet berries, rose petals, vanilla bean and a hint of coconut. Firm tannins on the palate, medium acid, and gushing cherry and raspberry fruit combine in a full-bodied, but juicy style. This wine has a great herbal-savory kick that adds complexity. Tinges of sweet mocha and oak linger onto the finish, but not enough to overwhelm the wine’s other aspects. Despite its richness, the wine somehow maintains lightness and balance, which will probably only improve with time. (93 points)

2010 Robert Mondavi Winery Pinot Noir Reserve California, Napa, Carneros ($55)

Bright ruby colored. Very dense on the nose, a bit closed, but with swirling the aromas of cool plum and pomegranate came out, also some notes of pine needle and dried leaves. Very full on the palate, with medium acid and incredibly silky tannins. It’s got the big flavors of cherry pie, vanilla cola and milk chocolate, but it’s accented with notes of cinnamon stick and pine wood. Toasty oak lingers on a long, creamy finish. Seems like it has a long time ahead of it. Very impressive. (91 points)

My Worst Wines of 2012

I was lucky enough to try some absolutely stunning wines over the course of 2012, which I chronicled in this blog post. Writing about all the great Burgundies and New World syrahs I drank in 2012 got me thinking: What about the worst wines of 2012? I've had some really bad ones, so I went back into my tasting archive and pulled out the worst of the worst.

A lot of wines are terrible because of a specific "fault." The most well-known wine fault is cork taint (technically called 2,4,6-trichloroanisole or TCA), a compound that can seep into bottles through tainted cork or barrels, destroying all that is good in the wine and leaving behind aromas and flavors of moldy filth. Other faults, like volatile acidity and oxidization, are easy to identify if you know what to expect. I tasted my fair share of faulty wines this year, but I didn't score those wines, and they're not included in this report. As far as I can tell, these three wines didn't have a specific chemical or other flaw. They just plain sucked.

(A quick note on wine scores: It's generally accepted that a wine gets 50 points just for being fermented grape juice. When wines are as bad as the wines in this report, the point system, which is inherently flawed, becomes almost nonsensical. I use the 100-point scale because I guess I like throwing out terrible scores when a wine pisses me off.)

 

N.V. Valdo Nerello Mascalese Brut Rose (Italy)

This sparkling Italian rose is a light salmon color. This wine smells like watermelon, stinky gym socks and rose water. The palate tastes bitter and offensive. Screw this wine. It tastes like crap, and the producer must be a loser. 60 points

2010 Tarara Winery Viognier Honah Lee (Virginia, Northern Region, Loudoun County)

Wow, I can't believe this wine got a "gold medal" in the Virginia Governor’s Cup. It's unbearable. Aromas of white grapes, oil and marmalade. The palate tastes bitter, like someone crushed grape seeds in with the fruit. However, the alcohol clocks in at 15.5%, making this taste like some bizarre cocktail gone wrong. Bitter fruit, overbearing alcohol, disgusting flavors. How someone could vote to give this wine a gold medal is beyond me. It's quite miraculous to taste a wine this bad that doesn't have a specific chemical flaw. It's like they set out to create the worst wine possible, and succeeded. 60 points

2010 Pago del Vicario Blanco de Tempranillo (Spain, Castilla-La Mancha, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla)

Straw, sauvignon blanc-like color. Crazy aromas of celery seed, green pepper, tobacco and cat vomit. Seriosly, as someone with two cats who puke on the floor regularly, I can tell you that this wine smells exactly like fresh cat barf. On the palate, this medium-bodied wine shows a bizarre combination of lemon zest, cucumber water and under-ripe cherries. It's all tainted by an overcooked broccoli flavor. The bitter finish reminds me of chewing on grape seeds. Very strange, and not likeable at all. This white wine is made from free-run tempranillo, a red grape, meaning the juice isn’t fermented on the skins. It’s a cool idea, and many winemakers pull it off, but not in this case. Friggin’ terrible. This is the worst non-"faulted" wine I've had all year. 51 points

So there you have it, my most hated wines of 2012. May the New Year bring no such wines to your palate.

Cults, Media and Death in Palahniuk's Novel "Survivor"

Tender Branson is about to die. The 35-year-old protagonist (with a name only a novelist could create) is narrating his story into the black box recorder on an airplane. There’s no one on the plane, just him and a rapidly decreasing fuel supply. He’s not a pilot (the pilot parachuted out before the narration starts) and it’s clear this plane has a single destination: oblivion.

Tender is the lone surviving member of a suicide cult known as the Creedish. The Creedish disdain secular society, sex, alcohol, pleasure… pretty much everything. What makes these folks different from Christian fundamentalists is this: most of the members kill themselves. The suicides began some ten years prior to the start of Tender’s narration. Since then, the few remaining survivors have offed themselves in waves until it seems Tender is the last one left.

When word gets out that he’s the cult’s last survivor, a New York consulting firm decides to market Tender, to recreate him as some sort of messianic product for mass consumption.  The admen give Tender shiny new clothes, designer drugs and all sorts of cosmetic injections to make him appeal to the American public. They (the American public) buys it hook, line and sinker, and Tender becomes a national sensation. Soon the Tender Branson brand expands to include books on tape, bobble-head dolls, even Tender’s own version of the Bible. Yet, after being remade into someone else, Tender ends up staring into the face of suicide just like the Creedish whackos who raised him. The novel “Survivor” is the schizophrenic and satirical story of how Tender ended up on that doomed airplane.

The book starts on page 238, with Chapter 47. The chapters and page numbers count down from there so that the story ends with page 1. This is a simple trick, but I’ve never seen it done before, and it adds a real sense of urgency to the narrative, like a bomb is ticking and there’s no way to shut it off.

100 pages or so in, Tender steps out of his life story and says, “Here in the cockpit of Flight 2039, the first of the four engines has just flamed out. Where we’re at right here is the beginning of the end.” If there’s a better example of a narrative device ratcheting up tension I can’t think of it at the moment. And there are four engines, so Palahniuk gets to use this trick three more times before the “beginning of the end” gives way to the “end” end.

My biggest problem with this book is the difficulty I have connecting with the narrator. He has no drive. He has no passion. He doesn’t give a shit about anything. This is, of course, because he’s telling the story from aboard a plane that is going to crash and destroy him. He’s a suicide case who’s been waiting for a long time to do himself in, so perhaps it’s too much to ask that I have some sort of intimate connection with this character.  

Also, Tender Branson is an extremely malleable person. He is formed and shaped according to the will of the cult church he grew up in. When he leaves and becomes the sole surviving member of that church, he is formed and shaped according to the will of the mass media. There are few (if any) desires inside Tender Branson that aren’t put there by someone else. Palahniuk uses Tender’s lack of self-consciousness as a way to show just how much people and institutions can assert control over the individual. Ultimately, however, Tender Branson chooses his own fate. He chooses to conform, makes a decision to reject the self and adopt the values and customs of those around him. It’s this habit of his that makes him somewhat boring as a narrator.

Luckily for the reader, Palahniuk’s style is so psychotic and hilarious that it overcomes the inherent faults of the narrator. I didn’t love this novel as much as “Fight Club,” but it’s still a great work of experimental fiction. Read it with Tender’s advice in mind: “Please fasten your seatbelts as we begin our terminal descent into oblivion.”

Ten Wines Under $20: My Picks for 20 Something Magazine

I've got a new post in 20 Something Magazine about drinking well and drinking cheap during the holidays.

 

This Holiday Season, Drink Well, Drink Cheap: 10 Great Wines for Well Under $20

Whatever holidays you celebrate — and however you celebrate them — holidays are always better with wine. (If you don’t drink, you can stop reading here because I have nothing for you.)

The holiday season means you’re probably already spending lots of money on presents for your siblings or significant others, plane tickets home to the ’rents, jumbo packs of Aleve. So you’re on a budget. Well, no worries, because you don’t have to spend a lot to drink well this year. The period between Thanksgiving and New Year’s is the crunch time for wine retailers. Cases and cases of bubbles move in and out quickly, stuff that’s been sitting on the shelves gets marked down in preparation for the New Year’s releases. And that leaves you, the frugal 20-something wine consumer, with a lot of options.

Click here to read the rest of the article.