Friday, June 5, 2015

California Pinot Noir Update: 2012s & 2013s

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Since my last look at California Pinot Noir, I’ve had the chance to taste through a wide range of interesting Pinots — and I found a few gems.

To generalize widely, the 2012s sport structured tannins and solid concentration, and while the ones I’ve tasted are full of very attractive fruits, they seem to need more time to come around. The 2013s seem a bit more approachable young, showing a slightly fresher approach but still plenty of concentration and body. 

For me, the Dierberg single-vineyard Pinots (made by Tyler Thomas) stood out from the pack for their elegance, beautiful fruit, and lip-smacking freshness. But I found quite a few other impressive Pinots in this crew, including some with a richer, chewier approach.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted single-blind.

2012 Kendall-Jackson Pinot Noir Vintner’s Reserve - California
$20
Medium ruby colored. Smells of sweet cherries, raspberries, hints of darker fruit, some root beer, cola and red floral tones as well. Medium-bodied, soft tannins, nice tart aspect. Juicy raspberries, strawberries and black cherries along with cola, caramel, light roast coffee and some rose petal notes. Not incredibly complex, but tasty, bright, attractive especially if you like sweet cola with your Pinot. From Monterey and Santa Barbara Counties. (86 points)

2013 Kendall-Jackson Pinot Noir Grand Réserve - California, Central Coast, Monterey County
$26
Medium ruby color. Nose: sour cherries, tart red currants, roses, some coffee, red licorice candy. Medium+ bodied, medium tannins, moderate acid, this Pinot shows a fruit-forward aesthetic with black cherries, plums, currant jam. Mix in some cola, anise, rhubarb pie and sweet coffee and mocha. Finishes with notes of baked fruit and sweet cola. (86 points)

2013 Carmel Road Pinot Noir - California, Central Coast, Monterey
$22
Pale ruby colored. Bright wild strawberries and tangy red cherries on the nose, along with some rose hips and cherry cola. Juicy and fleshy on the palate with medium-low tannins and acid. Strawberries, sour cherries, sweet currants and some candied elements to the red fruit, but backed up by notes of rhubarb pie. Sweet cola and toffee linger onto the finish. Simple, pleasant, fun for the price but nothing serious. (85 points)



Spicy, fresh, delicious, worth ever dollar.
2012 Wrath Pinot Noir Ex Vite - California, Central Coast, Monterey
$38
Medium ruby color. Lively, refreshing nose of tangy strawberries and red currants, notes of bay leaf, tobacco, rhubarb and roses. Very bright and fresh on the nose but lots of complex elements going on. Medium bodied, refreshing acid, fine but structured tannins, a bright and zippy approach but plenty of fruit and richness to keep it attractive. Tangy red cherries, strawberries, red currants, some richer dark berries mixed in. Complex, lots of really interesting non-fruit notes: I get sweet cola, incense sticks, tobacco, cedar and red sprinkle pepper as well. Pure Cali goodness but impressive in its tangy, spicy character. From the San Saba Vineyard, this 13.2% alcohol Pinot sees 25% new French oak. (91 points)

2012 Wente Vineyards Pinot Noir Single Vineyard Riva Ranch - California, Central Coast, Arroyo Seco
$30
Light cherry colored. Tart cranberries and strawberries on the nose, some rose hips and rhubarb as well. Medium bodied, fresh acid, light tannic backbone. The strawberry and red currant fruit is fresh and tart, backed up by notes of damp soil and rose tea. Some toasted oak and mocha last onto the finish, moderate length. Fresh, easy-drinking, perhaps a bit too light for the oak, but a fun wine. Aged 20 months in 50% new French oak. (85 points)

2013 Tolosa Winery Pinot Noir Estate - California, Central Coast, Edna Valley
$32
Dark ruby color. Tangy red and black plums on the nose, mixed in with rich currant fruit, a complex display of spice and earth elements that plays well together: black pepper, soy, pipe tobacco, paved roads, violets — all sorts of cool stuff going on here. Medium+ bodied, the tannins provide structure but are fine around the edges, moderate acid helps it stay balanced. A darker approach, with black plums and currants, some blackberry and black cherry pits. The fruit is rich and chewy, backed up with notes of violets, flower pots, charcoal, fresh cracked pepper and asphalt. Seems structured enough for four to five years of aging, which would help coax out all the nuances buried in here. Aged one year in 1/3 new French oak. (89 points)


For my palate, the 2013 Pinot Noirs from Dierberg are absolutely delicious.
2013 Dierberg Pinot Noir Dierberg Vineyard Santa Maria Valley - California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
$44
Bright ruby. Gorgeous aromatic display: freshest red currants, raspberries, juicy cherries, the fruit is complex and vibrant, backed up by a lovely blend of tobacco, chestnut, pickling spice and violets. Fine tannins, but plenty of structure, the acid isn’t too high but enough to balance the wine out. The fruit is pure and delicious (red cherries, currants, wild raspberries), toss in some bay leaf, spicy chewing tobacco, cigar box and chestnut. Some sweet cola and cedar, but maintains elegance throughout. A pretty and elegant Pinot now, but it could open up and evolve over the next three to four years. (93 points)

2012 Bien Nacido Vineyards Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley - California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
$60
Vibrant ruby color. Lots of spice on the nose (clove, white pepper, cinnamon), while the red raspberries smells bright and crunchy (mix in some wild cherry candies, coffee grounds). Medium+bodied, the acid helps keep this clean and the tannins are quite accessible. Smooth, velvety but stays soft in its approach. Raspberries, red and black cherries, gliding, smooth fruit matched with notes of cola, sweet coffee, cinnamon and clove, dusty earth, hints of tobacco underneath. Quite delicious, lovely moufhteel, showing near-term accessibility but strength to stay and complexity to unpack. Very pretty, forward yet elegant, and I love the spice tones. (90 points)

2012 Solomon Hills Pinot Noir - California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $60
Deep, medium ruby color. Nose of cola, black cherries, raspberry jam, violets, black pepper, tilled soil, charcoal. Full-bodied, dusty tannins with plenty of structure, moderate acid. A plummy wine, also full of black currants and cherries, combined with notes of cracked pepper, bay leaf, charcoal and loam. Juicy and rich but so structured. Notes of soy, charcoal, pepper and root beer add complexity. Full but refined, this will be even more beautiful in two-to-four years. (90 points)

2013 Dierberg Pinot Noir Drum Canyon Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills - California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
$52
Medium ruby. A bit tight on the nose, takes time to open up the tart red and black currants, more loamy, potting soil notes, deep sense of roses and violets, a hint of pepper. Dusty tannins, balanced acid, the fruit is velvety and rich yet maintains a tart edge, darker currants, black cherries, raspberries. A loamy, earthy aspect with hints of rhubarb and pepper. Rich and chewy finish with notes of roasted chestnut and cedar shavings. Could use some time to calm down (the Sta. Rita Hills wine is a bit more concentrated than the Dierberg Vineyard) but this is a very well-made Pinot with serious deliciousness, really opens up after a few hours. (92 points)

2012 KITÁ Pinot Noir Hilliard Bruce Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
$60

Deep ruby colored. Nose of raspberries and blackberries, red and black cherries, along with loamy soil, sweet rose potpourri, pepper, vanilla, root beer. Very juicy, fresh and attractive nose. Medium-bodied, silky tannins provide a chewy feel, medium acid. The fruit is rich and chewy, black cherries, dark plums, blackberries, add in some vanilla cola, mocha, sweet chewing tobacco, black cherries in ice cream, but also some cracked pepper, loam and Portobello mushroom elements. Despite the forward approach, this shows a lot of subtlety and complexity. Could be popped now, but I would cellar this for three or four years. A lot in here to contemplate over time. I love high acid, and would like this even more if it had a tad more acid, but it’s still quite balanced. 13.1% alcohol, aged 18 months in 25% new French oak. (91 points)

2013 Kendall-Jackson Pinot Noir Jackson Estate - California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
$30
Deep ruby color. Rich nose of dark cherries and raspberries, mixed in with cola, sweet oak, violets, loamy soil and caramel. Juicy and chewy feel on the palate, full-bodied, moderate tannins, medium-low acid. The fruit tends toward the black cherries cola and raspberry jam, mixed in with flavors of sweet coffee, caramel, rhubarb pie and root beer. Finishes with cedar and mocha notes. A bit heavy-handed and candied, but fun stuff. Aged in 40% new French oak, includes about 30% American oak as well. (87 points)

2013 Amici Pinot Noir Olema - California, Sonoma County
$25
Light ruby colored. Bright red cherries and cranberries on the nose, some sweet rhubarb pie. Juicy, ripe and forward on the palate, lots of cherry jam and rhubarb pie notes with light roast coffee, floral and sweet cocoa elements as well. Finishes with sweet cherry jam and caramel. Light and fine tannins, a bit of soft, moderate acid, this is an easy-drinking Pinot but a tasty one. Spends 11 months in 30% new French oak. (85 points)

2012 Frei Brothers Pinot Noir Reserve - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
$27
Vibrant clear cherry color. Bright red berry fruit jumps out on the nose, and I get cola, roses and notes of clove and cinnamon-spice. Juicy and bold fruit on the palate, black cherries and raspberry jam hits the right spot. Soft tannins, bright acid. I get notes of sweet cola, light roast coffee and a hint of red hot candies. Juicy, clean and pleasant, crowd-pleasing stuff. (87 points)

2013 J Vineyards & Winery Pinot Noir Russian River Valley - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
$40
A gorgeous bright ruby color. Very floral on the nose, lots of roses and with some clove and baking spice notes, all of this on top of some bright red cherries and strawberries. Bright and juicy on the palate with light/dusty tannins and tangy acid. Red apple and strawberry mix with sweeter raspberry jam elements, but an overall tangy red fruit approach. Notes of cola, sage and cranberry sauce add complexity. Open and accessible now but may develop in the near-term. (88 points)

2012 La Merika Pinot Noir - California, Central Coast
$15
Light ruby colored. Smells like black cherries, some stemmy elements along with sweet cola and vanilla. Medium-bodied, medium acid, jammy black cherries and currants on the palate, the oak muddies up the wine and there’s some stemmy, sharp elements on the midpalate. Sweet cola and burned coffee overwhelm the back end to the finish. I can’t score this wine. It’s not chemically faulted, it’s just abysmal. (No score)

Tuesday, June 2, 2015

American Rosé: Refreshing Options for Summer

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.


American consumers love rosé. They’ve been drinking more of it and American winemakers are producing more of their own as well. This is one of my favorite wine consumer trends of late. The more rosé that’s consumed, produced and imported, the more good rosé wine will rise to the top.

Of course, summer and rosé go together like, well, the sun and the beach. While I enjoy rosé year-round, especially in the dead of winter to psyche myself into a warmer weather mindset, there’s no denying that classic refreshing character of a cool glass of pink on a hot day.

Lately, we’ve received a diverse selection of American rosés, including two delicious offerings from Virginia, and some pink Pinot and Syrah goodness from California.

These wines, all from the 2014 vintage, were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
  
2014 Tolosa Winery Rosé of Pinot Noir Estate - California, Central Coast, Edna Valley
SRP: $24
Pale salmon color. Deep aromatics, with rich red cherry and ripe strawberries mixing with white flowers, banana peel and sea salt. Fresh and tangy acid, medium-bodied, this rosé is full of strawberry, watermelon and red apples, topped with lilies, baby’s breath and nettle notes. Clean and bright, lots of cut, lingering minerality, and I like the spice elements on the finish (which, based on the 2013 Pinot Noir seems to be a signature characteristic of this vineyard). Lovely stuff. (89 points)

2014 Agnitio Wines Pinot Noir Rosé - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $25
Medium salmon color. Bright and floral on the nose, roses mixed with daisies, some dandelion and nettle as well, on top of white cherries and wild strawberries. Medium to full body but crisp acid, the wine is quite creamy and ripe with strawberries, white cherries and McIntosh apple flavors. Fresh and tart but lots of vibrant fruit, backed up by notes of nettle, rose hips.
(88 points)

2014 Silver Trident Pinot Noir Rosé Apollo's Folly - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $28
Pale salmon color. Aromas of bright strawberries, cherry blossoms, peach and guava nectar, hints of cotton candy and floral perfume. A wine of bold presence on the palate, but held together by refreshing acid. Lots of juicy, almost chunky fruit (guava, red apples, summer peaches), add in notes of floral perfume, chalk and lemon zinger tea. A nice white pepper spice element lingers on the long and creamy finish. Showing a lot of weight, but still refreshing and clean. Could stand up to all sorts of summer fare. (88 points)

2014 Baker Lane Syrah Rosé - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $18
Pale salmon/tangerine color. Lighter approach on the nose, sliced red apples and white cherries, a breezier aromatic profile with white flowers, dandelions and hints of sea salt. Bright and crisp approach on the palate, this wine is light and elegant but not short on flavor. I get McIntosh apple, wild raspberries, tangerine and watermelon fruit, but what I like best is the complex mix of crushed chalk, white pepper, sea shells and minerals. Long, bracing finish that keeps the mouth watering. Crazy value, this is a 12% alcohol Syrah from Baker Lane’s Ramondo Vineyard. (90 points)

SRP: $25
Deep salmon colored. Bright red and white cherries on the nose, rose hips, cotton candy, add in some white pepper and basil. Juicy and ripe on the palate but a clean sense of acid. Tangy white cherries, wild strawberries, nectarine, add in some rose petals, cherry blossoms, hints of white pepper and sweet basil. Bright and clean but I like the creaminess and earthy-herbal notes. Not a saignée, this whole cluster pressed rosé is the best vintage I’ve tasted yet. (87 points)

2014 Early Mountain Vineyards Rosé - Virginia, Central Region, Madison County
SRP: $22
Very pale salmon color with a spritz in the glass. Bright aromatic display: white cherries, wild strawberries, watermelon, roses, nettle. On the palate, clean and crisp but mediu bodied. Bright raspberries, watermelon, also bursting with peach, apricot, drizzled with lime. A nice peppery kick with some nettle notes. Lots of complexity here, and notes of dried clay and crushed chalk come out with time. Lovely stuff, this is wonderfully done Virginia rosé that is able to compete with dry roses from all over the world. A blend of 75% Merlot, 20% Malbec and the rest Cab Sauv, Cab Franc and Syrah. (89 points)

2014 Stinson Vineyards Mourvedre Rosé - Virginia, Central Region, Monticello
SRP: $19
Lively salmon color. Very floral nose (roses, dandelions, daisies), mixed with strawberries, red cherries and watermelon, hints of white pepper as well. On the palate, this is a bright, clean and juicy rose, full of watermelon, ruby red grapefruit, red cherries and banana peel. Notes of white pepper, crushed calk and green herbs (basil, maybe?) add complexity. Creamy, fruit-forward yet refreshing and crisp. Stinson does it again in 2014 with this 100% Mourvedre (which is sourced from Horton Vineyards). (88 points)

Monday, June 1, 2015

New Post on "Welcome to the Bundle" - Hire a Damn Doula

So, I recently became a father. My wife gave birth to a baby girl two weeks ago, and I've been spending my days and nights getting to know this awesome little creature. 

The experience has been [insert any superlative-laden cliché].

Despite being tired and busy taking care of my wife and baby girl, I managed to throw together some words about the birth. 

The essay is now up on the blog Welcome to the Bundle. In the piece, I reflect on the birth process and the crucial role our doula played in the experience. 


Cheers!


Thursday, May 28, 2015

For Crisp, Clean, Refreshing Wines, Look to Finger Lakes

When it comes to clean, crisp, exciting white wines, Finger Lakes is America’s premier viticultural region. Clustered around a series of deep, glacial lakes in central New York, the cool but tempered climate, diverse soils and different vineyard aspects result in some refreshing and unique wines.

The Finger Lakes region is home to more than 9,000 acres of vines and 130 wineries. Riesling is the region’s leading white, backed up (and sometimes blended with) other classic, cool-climate European grapes: Gewürztraminer, Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Gris. Not to mention some tangy reds, Pinot Noirs and Lembergers, for example.

The Finger Lakes American Viticultural Area, outlined in pink, stretches from outside of Rochester to south of Syracuse. The region is made up of several sub-appellations, such as Seneca Lake and Cayuga Lake. Image: Finger Lakes Wine Alliance 

I recently tasted through a few Finger Lakes wines (three Seneca Lake whites from the slightly wetter and cooler 2013 vintage, and a 2012 red made from Lemberger). These wines reminded me of the critical role Finger Lakes producers play in the overall puzzle of American viticulture.

The tasting was sponsored by the Finger Lakes Wine Alliance’s Finger Lakes Wine Month promotion. People gathered at tastings in the Finger Lakes and from their homes, and we took to Twitter to share are thoughts and discuss the wines of this region. The tasting was timed to drum up support for the Wine Bloggers Conference, which is being hosted in the Finger Lakes during August. I won’t be attending the conference, but I desperately need a trip to the Finger Lakes with my wife and daughter. I love the wines and the area looks stunningly beautiful. I have so many places to visit, winemakers to speak to and stories to uncover.

Until then, here are my notes on some delicious Finger Lakes wines.

2013 Lakewood Vineyards Pinot Gris Gigliotti Vineyards - New York, Finger Lakes, Seneca Lake
$14
Light apricot-golden color. The aromas are full of rocks and chalk, some dried pineapple and honey, but also a zesty, pithy wine, with grapefruit and lime. The sugar adds richness but the sweetness is covered by the wine’s zesty acid. Creamy peaches, kumquats, laced with grapefruit, lime and apricot. Long finish of chalk and minerals, hints of honeyed white tea. From Gigliotti Vineyards on the west side of Seneca Lake. 13.7% alcohol, 12.5 grams of residual sugar, the grapes are destemmed and given 24 hours of skin contact. (87 points)

If you love flowers and spice in your wine, and you’re skeptical of residual sugar, this Seneca Lake Gewürztraminer fits the bill perfectly.

2013 Villa Bellangelo Gewürztraminer 1866 Reserve - New York, Finger Lakes, Seneca Lake
$18
Light gold color. Explosive aromatic display, really impressive: candied orange peel, fresh ginger, lime zest, peach nectar, also some sea brine and sour ale notes. Zesty on the palate, medium-light bodied and dry (11.5% alcohol, about 1% residual sugar). Pretty white peach, apricot, lime and kumquat, mixed with ginger, white pepper, ocean spray, chalk. Long finish, a complex wine, impressed by the concentration, length, minerality. I’d love to taste this in five or six years or mix in to an Alsace or Austrian wine tasting. Even more evocative on day two. (90 points)

From Wagner’s vineyards on the east side of Seneca Lake comes this interesting blend of 65% Riesling and 35% Gewürztraminer. Bone dry and refreshing, this Seneca take on an Alsace-style blended white would make a great ringer in a tasting of whites from Alsace or Germany. 

2013 Wagner Fathom 107 - New York, Finger Lakes, Seneca Lake
$20
Pale straw color. Peachy and bright on the nose, orange blossom, white peaches, drizzled with some honey, lime and white floral potpourri. Dry and brisk on the palate, a very tangy and crisp wine with chalk, river stones, quinine, The fruit underneath offers some juiciness to balance out the minerals. Orange, lime, grapefruit, some sliced green apple, quite pure and vibrant throughout. A deeply mineral-centric wine with refreshing bone dry appeal, hints of ginger, chalk, clover. Begs for oysters, clams. 12% alcohol, with no residual sugar. (89 points) 

Lemberger is an Old World red grape common in Germany and Austria, but it’s found several homes in America, notably Washington State and the Finger Lakes. Goose Watch tweeted to me that they were the first to plant Lemberger in this region in 1992. “We love working with this grape,” they said. “It needs a bit of extra hang time or it just tastes like black pepper. Gains some more fruit and complexity with the extra vine time.”

2012 Goose Watch Lemberger - New York, Finger Lakes, Cayuga Lake
$18
Medium ruby color. On the nose: forward cherries, wild raspberries, rhubarb pie, notes of cracked pepper, hint of savory broth and bay leaf notes. On the palate: tangy, bright, moderate-dusty tannins. Juicy black and red cherries, tart red cranberries. Dusty, earthy, cracked pepper elements. Wood shavings, rose petals and white pepper on the finish. An intriguing, food-friendly wine, lots of fun but showing complexity and intrigue. 12.8% alcohol. (88 points)



Friday, May 22, 2015

Welcome Summer With California White Wine

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Let’s take a break from Chardonnay and focus on some other white wine options from California. Though I love Cali Chard, it’s exciting to come across a diverse group of Gewürztraminer, Riesling  Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc from the Golden State. I enjoy California whites year round, but warm weather makes these wines even more attractive.

This grab bag of California whites was received as trade samples and tasted single-blind.

2014 Niner Wine Estates Albariño Jespersen Vineyard California, Central Coast, Edna Valley
SRP: $20
Straw-light gold color. Aromas burst out of the glass: white peach, guava, yellow flowers, also some gummy bears and peach ring candies. Bright acid frames the wine well as it rolls across the palate, lots of white peaches, juicy apricot, cantaloupe melon, backed up by some yellow flowers, honeysuckle and clover notes. Juicy, with gummy candy notes, yet dry and crisp. A unique flavor profile and presence on the palate, check this out if you’re looking for something bright, fruity and crowd-friendly. (88 points)

2013 Gundlach Bundschu Gewürztraminer Estate Vineyard California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $23
Light yellow color. Nose of white peach, papaya, lime juice drizzled on top, a bit of river rocks and mineral notes as well. Bursting with lime and white peach on the palate, it has a creamy mouthfeel but the acid streaks through from start to finish. Complex notes of lychee nut, dried honey, ginger tea, but there’s an underlying sense of stony minerality. Dry, bracing, nervy and complex. An example of what can be done with this grape in the right place at the right time. (89 points)

2013 Smith Madrone Riesling California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $27
Pale straw color. Lovely limestone, crushed shells and chalk on the nose, overtop of white peach and yellow apples. Crisp and bracing, with fine acid and a mineral-centric approach. I get thse sense I’m drinking lime juice from a glass made of crushed rocks and chalk. Juicy white peach and apricot mix with sliced Granny Smith apples, a hint of honey. A complex but clean and refreshing wine. Smith-Madrone are masters of Napa Riesling. (91 points)

2013 Clayhouse Vineyard Grenache Blanc/Viognier Red Cedar Vineyard California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $23
Light gold color. Zesty and flower-driven on the nose, like lemon, lime peels and tangerines tossed with honeysuckle and white tea leaves. Decent acid, but lots of creaminess and juicy tropical fruit elements. White peach and papaya fruit, some white tea and maybe mint note? Nutty, too with nougat and whipped butter, not to mention hints of sea salt and chalk. Quite complex, definitely tasty, this stuff would work well with all sorts of food. 70% Grenache Blanc and 30% Viognier. (88 points)

2013 La Merika Pinot Grigio California, Central Coast, Monterey
SRP: $13
Light and airy aromas, green melon and lemons mix with honeysuckle. Medium-bodied, medium acidity, a plump feel to the cantaloupe, nectarine and honeydew fruit (some lime drizzled on top), and I also get some honeycomb and green tea elements. A bit simple, but solid and would probably be a big crowd-pleaser for brunches or picnics. (85 points)

2013 Swanson Pinot Grigio California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Mountain
SRP: $21
Medium straw color. Very bright on the nose, lots of white peach, mango and mixed yellow and white flowers, some honeycomb and spring breeze notes. Light-medium bodied with moderate acid, the white peach and lemon flavors mix with cucumber water, white tea and honey notes. A bit light and not too complex, but the flavors are tasty and it’s definitely refreshing and fun. Fermented in all stainless steel, this wine includes 11% Oakville Chardonnay. (86 points)

2014 Landmark Pinot Gris Hop Kiln California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $20
Light gold color, hint of spritz. Very pretty nose: apricot jam, orange peel, honey, caramel apple and a note that reminds me of lager beer. Nice and creamy on the palate, but the acid zips in and cleans it up. The yellow apple, apricot and orange marmalade flavors are rich and full, but the wine also shows notes of white tea, chalk, nougat and raw almonds. Could be mistaken for a Chardonnay, but has a bit more tropical aspects to it. I’m intrigued. Fermented in half stainless steel and half oak barrels. (90 points)

2014 Kendall-Jackson Pinot Gris Vintner’s Reserve California
SRP: $15
Pale gold color. Bright aromas, lemons, green apples, some richer honeyed and floral notes, hints of hay and almonds. Medium-bodied, some refreshing acid, a light and bright style with crispness and freshness. Sliced yellow and green apples, lemon, but also some nougat, honeycomb and almond notes. An interesting Pinot Gris that blends in 9% Roussanne, 4% Gruner Veltliner, 3% Chardonnay, 3% Viognier and 2% Albarino. Most of the fruit comes from Monterey, but some Sonoma, Lake and Santa Barbara juice mixed in. (86 points)

2014 Niner Wine Estates Sauvignon Blanc California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $20
Bright straw color. Nose shows grapefruit, kiwi, white peach, some underlying river stream and white floral tones. Tangy acid, medium+ bodied, I like the creamy-nutty aspects, woven in well with the kiwi, grapefruit and apricot flavors. Hints of seashell, mountain stream and chalk, along with a slight white floral and spice note. Bright, clean, refreshing, but some attractive richness. Includes 10% Semillon, and 10% of the wine sees French oak. (87 points)

Known more for their burly reds, Justin puts
out one hell of a value-driven Sauvignon Blanc
2014 Justin Vineyards & Winery Sauvignon Blanc - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $14
Light gold color. Bursting with white peach and guava on the nose, but some bright lime and sea breeze notes, along with a rather complex mixture of grass, herbs and peppers. Full bodied but brisk acid keeps it fresh and tingling on the tongue. Loads of green pear, Granny Smith apple and lime drizzled on top. So very tangy and green-fruit dominated, but also shows some richer elements of honey and guava. Complex seashell, mountain stream, smashed chalk. Very interesting, but ultimately a wine made for the dinner table. Order the seafood tower! What a bargain for $14. (90 points)

2014 Star Lane Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc California, Central Coast, Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara
SRP: $22
Light gold color. Nose: grapefruit, lime, white peach, jalapeno and crushed sea shells. Tangy, crisp, bright palate, moderate creaminess, but a tart-citrus-driven wine (grapefruit, lime), hints of white peach. A clean, zesty feel with notes of chalk, white pepper, jalapeno and sea breeze. Acidity is really attractive and refreshing on the back end. Tart and nervy, begging for oysters and could stand up to some hot weather. (87 points)

2013 Matanzas Creek Winery Sauvignon Blanc Bennett Valley California, Sonoma County, Bennett Valley
SRP: $32
Bright sunshine on the nose: yellow flowers, white peach, guava, some notes of green pepper and sea salt. Tart acid, medium+ body. Green apples and grapefruit mix with peach, guava and mango, but add in some bright mineral and chalk notes, subtle white pepper and grass. A very fresh and vibrant wine despite the richness. Honeyed tea comes out with time but the wine stays brisk. Long, salty finish. (89 points)

You can't go wrong with either of these 2013 Sauv Blancs from Matanzas Creek.
2013 Matanzas Creek Winery Sauvignon Blanc Helena Bench California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
SRP: $40
Slightly more nuanced aromatics than the Bennett Valley: white peach, lime, grapefruit, hints of honeyed tea, less green pepper and more complex mineral and floral tones. Vibrant acidic backbone but smooth and creamy on the palate. Lovely balance, rich but graceful. White peach, guava, pineapple and lime, dusted with chalk, limestone, crushed hazelnut shell and honeycomb. Faint white pepper and oyster shell. Long and clean yet open and forward. Very pretty stuff. (90 points)

2013 Agnitio Wines Sauvignon Blanc California, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll
SRP: $30
Pale straw color. Nose of yellow apple, white peach, lemon, some cucumber water, honey and white tea. Very creamy body, medium acid, flavors of yellow apple, apricot jam, lemon curd, and white peach are juicy and ripe, mixed in with honeyed green tea, almond and cotton candy notes. Ripe, forward approach, but stays clean — no green or herbal elements here, just richness and fruit. Creamy finish with lots of honey. Barrel fermented (8% new), aged on the lees, a richer style but still refreshing. (88 points)

Wednesday, May 20, 2015

Australian Wines (With a Little Help From California)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

From high-end vineyard-designated bottles to entry-level offerings, California winemakers are teaming up with Australian growers and vintners in a series of intercontinental projects — and some of the results are impressive.

First off, we have a duo of delicious reds from Hickinbotham Clarendon Vineyard. This project brings together Australian winemaker Charlie Seppelt (whose family owns Seppeltsfield), and Napa winemaker Chris Carpenter, who makes some stellar Napa Cabernet for Cardinale, La Jota and Mt. Brave. Dating back to 1971, fruit from this vineyard has found its way into Clarendon Hills and the iconic Penfold’s Grange. These two wines retail for around $75 a pop, but they pack loads of depth, complexity and cellar potential.

On the other end of the spectrum, we have a new project from Jacob’s Creek called Two Lands. Long known for their inexpensive, simple, fruity regional blends, this Aussie powerhouse has teamed up with Ehren Jordan, winemaker at California’s Failla — hence the “Two Lands” moniker. The fruit is sourced from a wide array of vineyard sites, including Padthaway, Coonawarra and Adelaide Hills. I found this partnership interesting and unexpected, but at $14 a bottle, they’re putting out some good quality wines. I could see these wines faring well on by-the-glass lists, or they could serve as a good stepping stone for those just starting their Australian wine explorations.  

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.


2012 Hickinbotham Clarendon Vineyard Shiraz “Brooks Road” - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $75
Initially tight on the nose, but it opens up to show lots of violets and roses on top of currant and blackberry jam. Gets deeper and more elegant with air, showing dark roast coffee, menthol and loam. Full and rich on the palate with firm tannins but surprisingly bright acid. Tart red and black currants, blueberries, accented by cola, earth, graphite and coffee. Complex notes of sweet herbs, cocoa powder and black olive juice come out with time. Bold with plenty of power for the cellar, but impressive in its youthful elegance. A gorgeous young Shiraz, but I’d love to bury this bottle for fifteen years and see what sort of awesomeness comes out. (94 points)


2012 Hickinbotham Clarendon Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon “Trueman” - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $75
Aromas of tart currants and loam, a deep and driven aromatic approach with some sweet cola to accent the cigar and chewing tobacco. It really needs time to open up though. Full-bodied with firm tannins but they’re refined and, like the Shiraz, the moderate acid helps keep this refreshing Rich but tart currants, plums, blackberry jam, this is a complex and attractive Cabernet, oozing with generosity but fresh and elegant. Accents of sweet herbs, loam and mint chocolate chip add complexity. Long finish, with lots of toasted nut and coffee elements. A gorgeous wine that I’d bury for ten years without thinking twice. Includes 5% Merlot. (92 points)


2014 Jacob’s Creek Chardonnay Two Lands - Australia
SRP: $14
Bright yellow with hint of green color. Smells equal parts zesty and tropical, like lime and lemon drizzled over mango and papaya, topped with honey. Clean and fresh on the palate with lively acid and generously creamy yellow apple and white peach fruit. Notes of hazelnut and honey butter, but not too much, the wine maintains a fresh vibe. Not very complex, but good, middle-of-the-road style with broad appeal. (86 points)


2013 Jacob’s Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Two Lands - Australia
SRP: $14
Medium ruby color. Smells of dark currants, plums, blackberries, smooth coffee and vanilla, some loam and rose petal notes. Fine, easy-drinking tannins, moderate acid, a fresh and bright approach, smooth and easy to drink. Actually shows a bit of complexity with loam, dusty soil, notes of mocha, sweet cocoa and cedar. Fun stuff. (85 points)


2014 Jacob’s Creek Pinot Grigio Two Lands - Australia
SRP: $14
Light straw color, hint of spritz in the glass. Aromas of white peach, honeysuckle, cherry blossom and lemon zest. On the palate, it’s light and bright and clean, with lively acid. The lemon and white peach fruit is light and uncomplicated. A crisp wine but not much else going on except for some white flower and cucumber water notes. (82 points)


2013 Jacob’s Creek Shiraz Two Lands - Australia
SRP: $14
Medium purple color. Gushing plums and black cherries on the nose, some baked fig elements, mocha and sweet cola. Decent tannic structure, medium acid, the black cherry, dark plum and blackberry fruit is ripe but not overly so. Shows hints of charcoal, loam, toasted almonds and sweet coffee. Some of the oak tastes a bit harsh. Juicy and fun, not complex, lacking a bit of excitement. (83 points)