Visiting Napa's William Hill Estate

On a recent trip to Napa and Sonoma, I had the pleasure of dining at William Hill Estate, located in the hills of Southern Napa’s Silverado Bench.

Napa vineyard developer William Hill has been exploring this region of Napa since the late 1970s. His namesake winery kicked off in 1992, and was purchased by California wine giant Gallo Family in 2006. William Hill produces a range of Classic Napa varietal wines, Cabernet, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. The wines aren't stellar or particularly ground-breaking, but they're provide solid examples of delicious Napa goodness. The wines are now produced by Mark Williams, a UC Davis grad who's worked for Bridlewood Estate in Santa Barbara and Louis Martini in Napa.

It was an hour past sunset when I arrived at the estate, so, unfortunately I couldn’t fully appreciate the spectacular view from the lawn. But the outdoor space was wonderful, and coyotes yipping in the background added an interesting aura to the cold October evening. The food from Chris Johnson of Tra Vigne was very impressive and paired well with the wines. The whites hailed from William Hill while the reds were from Louis Martini (also owned by Gallo) were thrown into the mix as well.

2014 William Hill Winery Sauvignon Blanc - California, North Coast
SRP: $17
Brightly tropical with mango, pineapple and some lighter tones of lime and slight grass. Clean and bright with plenty of tropical richness, lots of orange peel, mango and pineapple with notes of basil and chalk. Nice way to start the evening. The grapes come from MacMurray Ranch and Solano County. (85 points)

2013 William Hill Winery Chardonnay Bench Blend - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $55
Smells oh so creamy with buttercream, butterscotch, yellow apples and hazelnut. Richly textured with lovely baked pears, yellow apples, hazelnut, cinnamon and nougat. On the full-rich-creamy-nutty end of the spectrum but not too far, as it still maintains a pretty appeal and some freshness on the finish. A Gallo winemaker referred to this as a Chardonnay with all the tricks, but they’re pulled them off with precision. (89 points)

2013 William Hill Winery Chardonnay Unfiltered - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $55
This is the zestier brother of the Bench Blend Chardonnay, with a bright and chalky nose, orange peels and crisp green apples along with some richer, creamier aspects. Still creamy and full on the palate but a bright and zesty appeal with vibrant acidity. I get white peaches, tangerines and limes along with saline, crushed shells and baby’s breath, some white tea and almond as well. Plenty of ripeness and layers of texture, but I really like the clean, vibrant sense as well. Aged 16 months sur lie in new French oak for 16 months. (90 points)

2012 Louis M. Martini Cabernet Sauvignon Lot No. 1 Napa Valley - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $145  
Deep and dark on the nose, with black cherry, boysenberry, plum cake, currant paste, underlying smoke, earth, vanilla and ginger snaps. A very powerful wine with intense structure, this wine begs to be buried for six to eight years. That said, it’s impressive young with such purity to the dark plum, currant and cherry fruit. Cola, loamy soil and coffee linger long on the finish. Beautiful stuff, but it will reward the patient. 100% Cabernet aged 21 months in new French oak. (91 points)

2005 Louis M. Martini Cabernet Sauvignon Lot No. 1 Napa Valley - California, Napa ValleyGorgeous nose with waves of complexity: currants, boysenberry, cola, coffee, interesting savory elements. Still solid but the tannins are smooth around the edges and the wine feels velvety on the palate. The fruit is fresh and juicy but starting to show some secondary complexity. The non-fruit elements are coming out, showing pepper, tobacco and bay leaf, mushroom, but I also get some sarsaparilla and cola notes. Long, elegant finish. Beautiful stuff, showing well now but it evolves in the glass and will continue to do so in the cellar. This was my favorite wine of the trip. (93 points)

N.V. Louis M. Martini Petite Sirah Port Thomann Station - California, Napa Valley, St. HelenaSmells of chocolate, cassis liqueur, plum sauce and violet petals. Full and powerful with caramel, bourbon barrel and coconut on top of the fig paste and black currant jam. Rich, a bit too hot perhaps, but quite nice. (86 points)

Wine Reviews: California Reds for Cold Weather

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

The air in the mid-Atlantic is finally baring its cold winter teeth – which I love. It’s time to set the slow-cooker, uncork some rich California reds. and raise a glass to darkness at 5:00 PM.

I review a lot of California Pinot Noirs, Cabernets and Syrahs, but we also receive a lot of samples that don’t easily fall into one category or another. Hence, this tasting, which is full of Merlot, Bordeaux-style blends and inky Petite Sirahs.

These wines were received as trade samples an tasted single-blind.

2012 Matchbook The Arsonist - California

SRP: $22
Deep ruby color. Sweet blueberry and raspberry jam aromas, along with roses, caramel. Medium-full-bodied with smooth tannins and medium acid, a jammy but slick feel on the palate, and I get lots of blueberry and black cherry fruit, cooked down a bit with coffee, brown sugar, vanilla bean and hints of black pepper glaze. A bit boisterous but it pulls off some fun stuff and provides a moderate amount of complexity. Chewy, rich, warm, with a dusty but sweet finish. Fun stuff now but it could benefit from some near-term aging. 52% Petite Verdot, 24% Cabernet Sauvignon and 24% Merlot, aged 28 months in French, American and European oak. (87 points)

2012 Clayhouse Vineyard Petite Sirah “Show Pony” Red Cedar Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

SRP: $40
Deep blackberry-purple color. Aromas of tangy blackberries mixed with blueberry compote and jam, notes of charcoal, dark chocolate, violets and clove. Dense at first, with low acid and grippy tannins. The blackberry and blueberry fruit is rich and extracted, yet maintains a tart aspect. Violets, graphite, clove, toasted coconuts, dark chocolate. Full and forward (14.5% alcohol), but shows an impressive depth and non-fruit complexity like graphite, pepper and rich earth. Drink now if you want a big boy, but I’d like to cellar this for two years or so. All Petite Sirah aged 20 months in French oak. (88 points)

2013 Chronic Cellars Petite Sirah Suite Petite - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

SRP $15
Vibrant purple color. Dense on the nose with deep blackberries and plums, mocha, cedar, smoke and black olive. Rich texture on the palate, full-bodied with gritty tannins. Compact, needs time to open up but has some dense black cherries and roasted figs. Notes of earth, charcoal, black olive and black pepper glaze as well. Rich, chewy, perhaps needs two years or so, but this is an impressive effort for $15. Includes 13% Syrah. (87 points)

2013 Chronic Cellars Purple Paradise - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

SRP: $15
Juicy ruby color. Nose of sweet red and black cherries and plums, coffee, clove and vanilla. Full-bodied but soft tannins, moderate-low acid. Juicy raspberries, blueberries, gushing fruit loaded with coffee, dark chocolate, sweet oak and vanilla bean. Rich, chewy, a wine to pop now and drink with a crowd. 70% Zinfandel, 14% Syrah, 11% Petite Sirah, 5% Grenache. (86 points)

2012 Matchbook Tinto Rey - California, Central Valley, Dunnigan Hills

SRP: $17
Mediun ruby colored. Nose of wild raspberries and juicy red cherries, some cola, mint and sweet baking spices as well. Medium-bodied, moderate acid helps freshen things up despite the chewy black cherry and raspberry jam elements. The wine is packed with notes of cola, dark chocolate, cedar and clove, but some interesting pepper and spice notes as well. Warm, smooth finish. Delicious stuff, not the most complicated wine, but it’s a fun ride. 50% Tempranillo, 17% Syrah, 11% Petit Verdot, 8% Graciano and 4% Tannat. (87 points)

2010 Cenyth Proprietary Red Wine - California, Sonoma County

SRP: $60
Dark ruby colored. A rich but bright aromatic blend of black and red currants and tart plums, sweet cedar, red roses, dusty soil, tobacco and a dash of eucalyptus. Medium bodied but not overpowering, the tannins provide plenty of solid structure but some fresh acid keeps the wine bright. The juicy plums and currant fruit show depth and nuance, and the fruit is matched with tobacco leaf, eucalyptus, toasted oak and sweet clove. Long finish with all sorts of nuanced flavors and, despite the bold presence, it maintains a lingering sense of elegance and freshness. I’d love to revisit this in three or four years, but enjoyable now, although a good decant would do it good. 54% Merlot, 34% Cabernet Franc and 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 14 months in 30% new French oak, 13.5% alcohol. (91 points)

2013 Biltmore Estate Merlot Vanderbilt Reserve - California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley

SRP: $27
Medium purple color. Sweet aromas of black cherries, raspberries, red licorice and vanilla. A vibrant and juicy approach on the palate with fleshy tannins and moderate-low acid. Chewy black cherries and, the fruit is topped with notes of dark chocolate and campfire smoke. Significant wood chips and vanilla, especially on the finish, some tobacco and bell pepper notes. Perhaps some near-term aging could do good things, but it seems playful right out of the bottle. (85 points)

2013 Shafer Merlot - California, Napa Valley

SRP: $55
Light purple color. Deep, rich aromatics, needing air and swirling to coax them out, but lots of complexity in here: black cherries, blackberries, tart plums, along with a medley of earthy-savory aspects (mushroom, leather, coffee, eucalyptus), sweet vanilla and toast. Full-bodied with study tannins and medium-low acid, but the wine maintains a velvety richness. The blackberry, plum skin and blueberry fruit is full, ripe but sexy, and tossed together with plenty of tobacco, mocha, cedar, loamy soil and graphite notes. Complex, long, deserving of cellar time to unravel the complexities and let the wine smooth out, but this is a beauty. A burly wine at 15.3% alcohol, but so delicious. Includes 84% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 20 months in 75% new French oak. (91 points)

Gotta love this label.

2012 Bootleg Red - California, Napa Valley

SRP: $39
Vibrant purple color. Dark and saucy on the nose (blackberry jam, roasted figs, blueberry syrup), some sweet vanilla and roasted coffee mix with an underlying sense of fallen leaves and savory (perhaps mushroom?) notes. Full-bodied with some sandy tannins and moderate acid. Juicy blackberry, blueberry and black cherry fruit, a crunchy aspect to the fruit helps it stay fresh and vibrant. Rich earth, chestnut, violet and coffee woven in well, some birch beer and cedar on the end. Seems accessible but it could definitely improve with some time in the cellar. 37% Merlot, 28% Petite Sirah, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Syrah and 4% Zinfandel. Aged 23 months in French and Amercan oak. (88 points)

2012 Murrieta’s Well “The Spur” - California, San Francisco Bay, Livermore Valley

SRP: $25
Vibrant ruby color. Pretty but bold aromatic display, wild raspberries, black cherries mix with deeper currant fruit, dried violets, eucalyptus and cedar shavings. Medium-bodied, fine tannins of medium strength, medium-low acid. The blackberry and black currant fruit is intertwined with juicy and tangy wild raspberries. I like the mix of coffee, eucalyptus, cedar and wet earth. Fun, not too complicated, but definitely delicious. Could use a bit more tang for my palate, but a solid wine for early consumption. 33% Petite Sirah, 31% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Petite Verdot, 4% Malbec and 3% Merlot. (87 points)

2013 Quivira Zinfandel “Black Boar” - California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley

SRP: $45
Deep ruby colored. Smoky and baked on the nose with baked cherry pie, blackberry jam and roasted figs, some vanilla, cedar and sweet pipe tobacco. Full-bodied, velvety tannins, low acid. Blackberry jam, roasted fig paste, cherry pie flavors, lots of cedar, vanilla, mocha and scorched earth but some more tobacco and black pepper. Big and bold, can’t deny the deliciousness but not much subtlety. Aged 17 months in 30% new French oak, this includes 12% Petite Sirah and 5% Carignan. (87 points)

2012 Immersion Wines Red Blend - California, Napa Valley

SRP $17
Vibrant purple. Aromas of tart red berries, blackberries, notes of clove, tobacco, spearmint, dark chocolate shavings. Full bodied, some tartness and bite to the wine, along with blackberry, dark currant, blueberry. Smoky, charcoal and Maintains a tart edge with a finish of smoke and anise. Not too complex, but fun. (85 points)

<85 points

2012 Clayhouse Vineyard “Adobe Red” - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $14
Juicy purple colored. Nose of sweet currant jam, raspberry pie, some cinnamon, clove and creamy oak. Light tannins, medium acid. Sweet black cherries, raspberry jam and pomegranate juice flavors, along with black cherry fountain soda, roasted chestnut and coffee. Juicy and a bit candied but tasty. Drink now. Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Tempranillo and Malbec, 12 months in French and American oak. (84 points)

2013 Nevada County Wine Guild Our Daily Red - California

SRP: $10
Medium ruby color. Sweet red apple peel, strawberry jam, a weird mix of coffee grounds, bitter green herbal notes and red licorice candy. Medium bodied, soft tannins, some moderate acid. The red berry fruit is a bit bitter and sour, mixed in with notes of coffee, oak, green pepper and earth. Unbalanced, some red berry juice flavors but, overall, just not good. Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Ruby Cabernet, Carignan. (70 points)
 
2013 Cornerstone Cellars Stepping Stone Red Rocks! - California, North Coast
SRP: $15
Light ruby color. Smells like baked plums, raspberry cheesecake topping, toffee, but some roses and pepper come in and keep it from being totally sweet fruit compote. Tangy acid (surprising, in a good way), light, the wine has a fresh feel despite the candied elements, of which there are many (cherry chews, purple taffy, raisin cookie), mixed in with some slight notes of roses and chestnut. It’s fun, and I could see this getting a lot of critter label converts (and it is a step above for sure), but still tastes too concocted to me. Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and Pinot Noir. (76 points)

Broadside's Refreshing Paso Robles Wines

Think Paso Robles reds are all alcohol, toasted oak and extracted fruit? Sure, plenty wines from this Central Coast California region offer burn and new oak glitz, but there are some producers making more restrained examples. Case in point: Broadside. 

Broadside is the wife/husband project of Stephanie and Brian Terrizzi, who take an approach characterized by relatively lower alcohol levels and very little to no new oak. I recently tasted through four Broadside wines while chatting with Brian and Stephanie via live-streaming video and Twitter. With Broadside, Brian said he’s aiming for, “balanced, value-driven, food-friendly wines.” And that's exactly how I'd describe the wines I tasted. 

In his treatise on lower-alcohol, traditional style California wines, John Bonné called Broadside one of the “new classicists,” a term I think fits well for the Terrizzis.  

Stephanie, Broadside’s viticulturist and soil nerd , says picking grapes is like picking vegetables from a garden — you have to get the timing right. Stephanie said she aims to preserve the natural freshness and acidity in the grapes by picking before the ripeness reaches extreme levels.  

Stephanie recalled how she was initially “blown away by Paso” when the couple was looking for grapes. “The soil is incredible,” she said. And with, “so many soils, hills, you could almost grow anything in Paso Robles if it’s in the right spot.” 

The right spot for Broadside’s Cabernet and Merlot is the Margarita Vineyard. This site’s limestone soils are drizzled with fossilized oyster shells that crumble into a chalky dust, Stephanie explained. The vineyard was originally planted by the Robert Mondavi family in the late 1990s, who had hopes that the site would add another stellar Cabernet to their portfolio. But the vineyard was sold off when Mondavi was bought by Constellation Brands. That left a bunch of Cabernet and Merlot without a home, and the Terrizzis were happy to care for the orphaned Paso fruit.  

One of the most attractive things about Broadside’s juice is the price tag. “There’s something really exciting about producing wines that people can drink on a regular basis,” Brian said. He doesn’t want his friends to say, “Oh, my friend makes wine but I can’t afford to buy it.” 

The stylistic choice of using less new oak also helps keep costs down. “Too many new barrels, ” Brian said, “it’s almost like a flaw in the wine.” Using old barrels saves money, considering new French oak barrels can run upwards of $1,000 a pop. Brian said he sources good fruit at reasonable prices. And Stephanie and Brian don’t pay consultants — instead they take care of the work themselves. The result is a lineup of wines that over-deliver for their sub-$25 cost.

Here are my notes on the Broadside wines I tasted...

2014 Broadside Chardonnay Wild Ferment - California, Central Coast, Edna Valley
$20
Light gold color. Rich aromas of yellow flowers, juicy melons, pears and baked apples , hints of honeyed white tea. Creamy texture, yet some bright acid as well. Lots of honey, an interesting fruit spectrum (mango, papaya, lychee), with notes of honey and hints of seashells. Ripe, juicy, but maintains freshness and levity at 13.5% alcohol. Mostly stainless steel fermentation but a bit of old oak, too. (86 points) 

2013 Broadside Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
$18
Nose of dark blackberries and cherries, some caramel corn, red licorice and sweet coffee notes. Medium-bodied, an easy-drinking approach with soft tannins and moderate acid. Blackberry jam, candied red berries, laced with sweet cola and eucalyptus. Rich and ripe but shows moderate body and some freshness. Stylistically jammier than the wines from the Margarita Vineyard. 13.9% alcohol. (83 points)

2013 Broadside Merlot Margarita Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
$22
Vibrant purple color. Nose of raspberry jam, juicy black cherries, loamy earth and some potting soil with violet petals. On the palate, the purity of the fruit is quite high, with plums, black cherries and blackberries. Moderate acid provides freshness while dusty-earthy tannins provide a velvety feel. I also get complex earth, dust, mushroom and charcoal notes. Full but smooth and not baked or overdone in any way. All Merlot aged in old oak, 14.4% alcohol. Brian argued that Merlot is a great fit for the Margarita Vineyard because it ripens a month earlier than Cabernet and maintains great acidity, tart fruit and intensity. Based on this wine, I totally agree. (88 points)

2013 Broadside Cabernet Sauvignon Margarita Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
$25
 Vibrant ruby color. I the nose, I get some tart red and black currant, plum skins, some earthy, charcoal notes, sweet pipe tobacco, cocoa powder and roasted coffee. Full-bodied but fresh on the palate with dusty tannins. Black currant, blackberry, some tart plum skins, the fruit is rich but also crunchy and tart. Complex loam, sweet clove, pipe tobacco, hints of mint and roasted coffee. Lovely tartness on the finish. Approachable young but I’d like to retaste this in two to four years. Includes 12% Merlot, 14.2% alcohol. (89 points)

Wakefield's Gems: Visionary Cabernet & Pioneer Shiraz

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wakefield produces some exciting wines from Clare Valley, South Australia, ranging the spectrum from approachable, relatively inexpensive bottles to, well, these big boys.

The Pioneer Shiraz and The Visionary Cabernet Sauvignon come from the Wakefield team’s best vineyard blocks in the Clare Valley. These are bold, concentrated wines that spend time in American oak, but the purity of fruit, complexity of flavors and aging potential make these wines very impressive. They’re special wines for sure — as they should be, considering the suggested retail price is $200.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2012 Wakefield Cabernet Sauvignon The Visionary - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley

SRP: $200

Medium purple color. Aromatically slugging, with deep red and black currants and tart plums, but with air more reserved and elegant notes come out, tobacco, eucalyptus, mint, sweet violets, pickle, white pepper. Seriously complex sniffing. On the palate, this shows a firm tannic structure, some medium acid. Tart black currants and dark plums, the fruit has crunchy skins but lots of ooze on the inside. Complex secondary notes of tar, charcoal, wet forest, mint, white pepper, clove, roasted chestnut and dark roast coffee. Crazy complex but the elements unravel beautifully on the palate. The oak signature is written in thick pen, but it has enough other elements going for it. A burly wine that will improve for ten years and hold for longer, but it’s quite a thing to taste the power right now. (93 points)

2012 Wakefield Shiraz The Pioneer - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley

SRP: $200

Rich purple color. Complex nose that needs time to open up and show it’s full bounty, but I start getting black cherry, blueberry and black currant mixed in with notes of bacon fat, black pepper, mushroom, notes of roasted coffee, eucalyptus and anise. Full-bodied, firm tannins but they’re smoothed out around the edges, and an impressive amount of acid holds the wine together. Black cherry, blueberry and dark currant fruit, tart and crunchy but full of sweet flavors. A complex web of black pepper, soy sauce, cedar, eucalyptus and mint makes this a delight to sip and ponder. Long finish with deep notes of asphalt and minerals. Rich and mouth-filling but so elegant. Really bold and worthy of cellar development, but impressive in its approachability and vibrancy at this young point. (93 points)

Russian River Bliss: Exploring MacMurray Ranch

MacMurray Ranch is an ethereal place. Nestled in a quiet enclave of Sonoma’s Russian River Valley, as you enter the estate, the clock dials back a few decades. Massive, gnarly oak trees scrape the sky. Rows of vines rise up from the forest and stretch to the hills — it’s conducive to a sense of awe and admiration.

On a recent trip to Napa and Sonoma, I spent the afternoon and evening touring the property and dining at the ranch house. The MacMurray Ranch is home to the annual Taste of Sonoma event, which brings together thousands of wine lovers with hundreds of local wineries and food vendors. I’ve never attended, but after spending time at the ranch, I realized it is a perfect spot it is to throw a huge party.

The ranch is massive, comprising 1,500 acres, and has been farmed since the 1850s. The American actor Fred MacMurray purchased the property in 1941, and began farming crops, raising cattle and raising a family. 

Kate MacMurray, Fred's daughter, grew up here, and she was my gracious host for an afternoon and evening at the ranch. She's a genuine, wise soul, exuding a rich sense of historical perspective. As we toured the property, she told nostalgic stories about the ranch and spoke about "Daddy and Mom" with a tone of reverence. 

Fred MacMurray passed away in 1991, and it wasn’t until five years later that the first grape vines took root in MacMurray Ranch soil. 

While grapes are a relative newcomer to this historic site, it’s a beautiful spot for viticulture. This estate is sprawling and diverse, with different slopes and soils. 

Kate MacMurray at home on the ranch. 

These hills are home to some delicious Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris, among other varieties. 400 acres are planted to vines, 280 to Pinot Noir. 

"We're Pinot here," said Winemaker Boyd Morrison, a tall, pensive guy with a passion for site-specific nuances in the Pinot Noir Grape. "That's mostly where our passion is." 

After touring the vineyards with Boyd and Kate, we gathered at the highest point of the ranch to taste some barrel samples of 2014 Pinot Noirs. The wines came from four different estate vineyards (three in the Russian River and one much further south in the Santa Lucia Highlands). The three Russian River Vineyards (along with MacMurray Ranch) are usually blended together in one of three appellation bottlings, the Russian River, Russian River Reserve and the Winemaker’s Block, while the Santa Lucia wine is bottled separately.  

Below are my notes on the four different Pinot Noirs.

2014 Pinot Noir Two Rock Vineyard

Russian River Valley - 223 acres of Pinot Noir

Gorgeous nose of bright strawberries, raspberries, rose hips. Fresh and vibrant palate with tangy acid to zest up a bold texture. Bright raspberries and juicy cherries mix with notes of pepper and clove. I could see this wine adding a whole lot of aromatics and spice to a blend.

2014 Pinot Noir Del Rio Vineyard

Russian River Valley - 44 acres of Pinot Noir

Darker cherries on the nose, more savory spices as well. Full and chewy on the palate, a deep but smooth texture. Plummy, jammy cherries and raspberries. I get sweet tobacco, loam, clay, violets. A deep and somewhat compact wine that could add a whole lot of structure to a blend.

2014 Pinot Noir Laguna Ranch

Russian River Valley - 21 acres of Pinot Noir

More aromatically compact but does show some deper red currant and cherries along with some clove and pepper. Bright acid on the palate but a rich and chewy presence. Rich but tangy cherries along with roses, black tea, tobacco. A long, warm finish. Bold but shows lots of finesse.

2014 Pinot Noir Olson Ranch

Santa Lucia Highlands - 390 acres of Pinot Noir

Bright red cherries on the nose, sweet strawberries and raspberry jam. Chewy texture, medium-low acid, this shows jammy raspberries and black cherry fruit. I get notes of lavender, cedar, cola, sweet herbaceous elements as well.

California wine giant Gallo Family bought MacMurray Ranch about 16 years ago. Kate told me the family sold to Gallo with a few conditions. They wanted to sell to a family company that would respect the unique history and aesthetic of the place. Also, the purchases couldn’t disturb an old fence on the property that was built by Chinese laborers in the 1800s. Lastly, the land had to stay agricultural. Considering the site was prime Pinot Noir territory, Gallo fit the bill and bought MacMurray Ranch. The money from the sale was used to create a non-profit foundation in the name of Kate's parents.

After dark, a group of other wine writers and I gathered around a table in the old ranch house for an amazing meal. The food, served by renowned local chef Gia Passalacqua, was absurdly delicious. "Meals were very important here," Kate told me as we dined. "That's what this ranch is all about, bringing people together in a joyful setting."

My notes on the wines tasted with dinner are posted below.

2014 MacMurray Ranch Pinot Gris Russian River Valley - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

SRP: $20

Smells of creamy yellow apples, nectarines and rich yellow flowers. Bright acid on the palate keeps this lively while the creamy fruit rolls in (pears, nectarines, yellow apples). I get notes of honeycomb and floral perfume. A very pretty Pinot Gris with lots of life. The fruit comes from MacMurray Ranch and Two Rock Vineyard. Very good for the price. (87 points)

2014 MacMurray Ranch Chardonnay Russian River Valley - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

SRP: $20

Great aromatic vivacity: green and yellow pears and apples, honeysuckle, almond and some flinty notes. Crisp but buttery, the balance is wonderful. Tastes of the ripest pears, sliced green apples, with notes of honeycomb, cinnamon, yet some mineral tinge throughout. Love the balance of freshness and richness in this Chard. From Laguna Ranch, Del Rio and Two Rock Vineyards. So good for the price. (88 points)

2013 MacMurray Ranch Pinot Noir Reserve Russian River Valley - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

SRP: $37

Nose of juicy black and red cherries, raspberry jam, along with tobacco, roses and wet earth. A full and velvety approach on the palate, bold, almost aggressive, but some moderate acid for balance. The fruit tends toward the jammy red currants and raspberries, but the fruit is tinted with notes of rhubarb, red clay, caramel and coffee. Long, rich, warm, even exotic. A richer style but very pretty – this will improve for quite some time. From Laguna Ranch, Del Rio and MacMurray Ranch Vineyards. Aged 10 months in 1/3 new French oak. (90 points)

2013 MacMurray Ranch Pinot Noir Winemaker's Block Selection Russian River Valley - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

SRP: $60

A wonderfully complex nose of black cherries, raspberries, red licorice, sage, clove, roses, tilled soil. So silky and refined on the palate but the richness is evident. The red fruit is tangy and fresh and complemented by rhubarb pie and tobacco flavors. An underlying mineral essence as well, with hints of savory elements that will come out with time. A much more refined Pinot than the Russian River Reserve, and one of my favorite wines of the trip. From Del Rio, Laguna Ranch and MacMurray Ranch Vineyards. (92 points)

2007 Gallo Family Vineyards Sémillon Late Harvest Style - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

Rich aromas of peach nectar, candied orange peel and clover honey. Smooth and rich on the palate with apricot jam, pineapple cake, orange marmalade, also some candied ginger and caramelized sugar. Medium acid helps balance the richness. Very delicious. (87 points)

The MacMurray Ranch has a lot of different slopes, angles and soils, allowing the Pinot grapes to gain significant complexity.

And here's some GoPro footage from my time at MacMurray Ranch: 

Special Occasion Wines Worth the Price ($30 or more)

I’d rather buy one $30 bottle than three $10 bottles. Bargain wines can be a lot of fun, and I love tracking down good ones in the $15 range, but to truly understand the wines of a given region, yup, you have to spend some money.

The $60 suggested retail for the 2010 Cenyth Proprietary Red Wine is actually very reasonable given the stunning quality of this Sonoma County red blend. (You can find it for about $50 at some retailers). I’ve been tasting through a bunch of Napa and Sonoma Cabernets and Bordeaux blends lately, and this bottle had the best quality-to-price ratio of the bunch. And it’s perfect to pop open and decant with good friends and family during one of these cold, autumn evenings.

Click here for more recommendations from the full article on Snooth.