Quality & Value in 2015 Côtes de Bordeaux

Vineyards in Blaye. Credit: Côtes de Bordeaux

Expressive Bordeaux in the sub-$30 range can be hard to find. I love Bordeaux, but can’t really afford what I love to drink, at least not very often. On the other hand, I’ve been turned off by inexpensive Bordeaux — too much acidic, bitter or just plain boring wine has made me hesitant to take a chance on a random $30 bottle.

But, over the past few years, I’ve found Côtes de Bordeaux wines can fill an interesting niche. They offer entry-level accessibility to consumers who want to explore Bordeaux without spending a lot of money, and they can offer something delicious and distinctive enough to make Bordeaux fans happy.

Côtes de Bordeaux is composed of five appellations: Blaye, Cadillac, Castillon, Francs and Sainte-Foy. Four of them joined together in 2009 to form the Union des Côtes de Bordeaux, while Sainte-Foy joined in 2016. These largely noncontiguous areas are spread out along the right banks of the Garonne and Dordogne rivers. Blaye, the largest, stretches east from the banks of the Gironde river; Cadillac follows the east bank of the Garonne; Francs and Castillon produce wines from vineyards northeast of Saint-Emilion.

Most of these vineyards are planted on rolling hills with lots of clay and some limestone soils. The wines are almost all red, almost all Merlot-dominated, with some other Bordeaux varieties sprinkled in. Collectively, the five appellations produce about 5.3 million cases of wine, which is about 10% of Bordeaux’s total production.

I’ve written about these wines a few times before, and found a lot of good quality and value. So, knowing the hype about the 2015 vintage in Bordeaux, I figured a few Côtes de Bordeaux wines from this vintage would have a lot to offer. I was able to gather up 10 sample bottles, nine from 2015, with one 2014 ringer, and I blind-tasted them. 

Aross the board, these wines really deliver in the 2015, generally showing plenty of ripe fruit, with some velvety tannins and moderating acidity. A few wines really stood out.

And it sort of amazes me that these wines cost between $12 and $25. They can be fun to enjoy young, but some of these have the structure to improve with years in the cellar.

My notes on the wines I tasted are below.

2015 Château Suau - France, Bordeaux, Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux
SRP: $25
Bright purple color. Nose boasts black cherries, blackberries, roasted figs, along with scorched earth, graphite, mint and dark chocolate. Plush texture on the palate with velvety tannins and medium acidity, this shows juicy red and black currants and cherries but stays vibrant throughout. Notes of violets, clove, leather and mushroom play well with the cedar and coffee notes. Very accessible now but could hold for a few years. 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc. Located on the highest part of Cadillac (which is only 330 feet), aged 12 months in French oak. (89 points)

2014 Château Lamothe de Haux Première Cuvée - France, Bordeaux, Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux
SRP: $15
Light purple color. Nose shows tart red and black currants and plums, along with tar, forest floor, coffee and clove. Vibrant acidity, strong tannic backbone, but the edges aren’t too harsh, this seems young but also lively. Tart red and black currants mix with lots of tobacco, clove, cedar, coffee. Concentrated and a bit tight, but impressive depth. This stood out from the 2015s as it doesn’t seem as velvety or silky, rather seems a bit tighter and more reserved, but still very nice. (88 points)

2015 Château Lamothe de Haux Première Cuvée- France, Bordeaux, Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux
SRP: $15
Pretty aromas of juicy red and black cherries, saucy plums, lots of roses, violets, rhubarb, with some pepper, leather and coffee grounds. Velvety on the palate but nice grip, fresh acidity, lovely balance herein. Cherries, currants, suave but tangy fruit, and I get a complex mix of grilled herbs, roses, violets, tar, pepper, black tea. So vibrant yet structured and age-worthy, too. Exactly what I was hoping to find in this tasting: insane 2015 vintage value from the Côtes de Bordeaux. 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc. (90 points)

2015 Château Puygueraud - France, Bordeaux, Francs Côtes de Bordeaux
SRP: $18

Gorgeous nose of chilled black cherries, red and black currants, lots of violets, black tea, dark chocolate, anise and clove. Lovely balance on the palate with dusty tannins, crisp acidity and plenty of red and black cherries and currants. Complex nots of violets, clove, black tea, along with leather, forest floor. Clove, anise, cedar and coffee notes woven in well. Packed with fruit but also fresh and vibrant, this will age nicely over the next four to five years or so. 80% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 5% Malbec from clay and limestone soils, aged 12-16 months in about 40% new French oak. (91 points)

2015 Château de Pitray - France, Bordeaux, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux
SRP: $15
Nose shows tart black currants and dark plums, with coffee, dark chocolate, roasted chestnut and violets. Structured tannins, vibrant acidity, the balance is really nice with the tart black currants and black cherry fruit. Notes of clove, cedar, roasted chestnut, library dusty, with some mineral and graphite elements. Plush and ripe fruit, but it’s crisp and quite complex already. Should be more so in a few years. 75% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Franc, 2% Malbec. The Merlot sees 12 months in French oak, while the other wine is aged in stainless steel. (90 points)

2015 Château Hyot - France, Bordeaux, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux
SRP: $15
Nose shows fresh red cherries, currants and plums, along with rose petals, oregano, pine forest, mushroom. On the palate this shows strong tannins, tart acidity, and some concentrated, tangy red fruits (cherries, currants). Notes of pine, forest floor, mushroom add complexity. The tannins here need a few years to mellow out, and then this should turn into a smooth, tangy, super earthy and savory wine. 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon from sandy clay soils, aged 20 months in oak. (87 points)

2015 Château Le Grand Moulin Grande Reserve - France, Bordeaux, Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux
SRP: $13
Tart cherries and currants on the nose, lots of tobacco, mint, black tea and earthy, charcoal notes. Velvety on the palate, medium acidity helps balance out the medium-strength tannins. Tangy plums and black cherries, juicy and ripe fruit, a little less focus on the secondary notes here, but some subtle violets, loam and earth. Accessible stuff right now, but this could age for a few years at least. 80% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 5% Malbec from sandy gravel soils, aged 12 months in cement. (87 points)

2015 Château Gigault Cuvée Viva - France, Bordeaux, Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux
SRP: $19
Nose of tart red currants, deep black cherries, a nice mix of cedar, loam, coffee, tobacco, mint and leather. Nicely balanced on the palate with velvety tannins and fresh acidity. Juicy cherries and plums yet the fruit has a tangy edge, accented with violets, cedar, coffee grounds. A really cool earthy/mineral quality here, and the wine is lip-smacking and accessible, yet built to improve in the cellar for a while. Delicious, impressive blend of 90% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc. (90 points)

2015 Château Cailleteau Bergeron - France, Bordeaux, Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux
SRP: $20

Waves of dark plums, currants and cherries on the nose, backed up with mint, coffee, clove, cedar, a warm and inviting aromatic display. Vibrant acidity on the palate, solid tannic backbone, combines with suave fruit with a tart edge (black cherries, red currants). Notes of violets, earth, charcoal, graphite, blended nicely with some cedar and vanilla. Vibrant and expressive but should age nicely. 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. (90 points)

<85 points
2015 Château Couronneau Bordeaux Supérieur - France, Bordeaux, Bordeaux Supérieur
SRP: $19
Nose shows juicy black cherries, sweet raspberries, with clove and vanilla. The palate is where things go off the rails a bit. High acid, astringent tannins with some green edges, some nice tart cranberry fruit and black cherries, but there’s a bitter, fruit pit element. Notes of pencil lead and graphite. Not faulty, and air helped smooth it out a bit, but it was still disjointed, even 24 hours later. Perhaps a few years might help but I’m skeptical. 60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon.

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: Grenache & Syrah from Spain & France

I’m a big fan of Grenache, both as a varietal wine and it’s classic place in blends with Syrah and other red Rhone grapes. This week, I have a handful of diverse Grenache wines from Spain, and a Grenache Gris from the Roussillon region of France really wowed me.

I also tasted a few Syrah-focused wines from the Southern Rhone appellation of Costières-de-Nîmes, whose wines I’ve really enjoyed in the past. The value can be excellent, too.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2016 Bodegas Aragonesas Garnacha Coto de Hayas Centenaria - Spain, Aragón, Campo de Borja
SRP: $15
Medium purple color. Nose of dark cherries, black currants and raspberry jam, with cocoa, vanilla and mint. Full and saucy on the palate, a chewy, fleshy style with mild tannins and medium acidity. Juicy black cherries and blackberries, mixed with vanilla, cocoa and earth. Smooth, fun, pleasant, good stuff for near-term drinking. (87 points)

2016 Bodegas San Alejandro Garnacha Las Rocas - Spain, Aragón, Calatayud
SRP: $12
Bright purple color. On the nose, spicy red and black cherries, raspberry jam, with black licorice and raspberries in dark chocolate notes.Full and chewy on the palate, juicy and fun with some light tannins and medium-low acidity. Plums, raspberry and blackberry jam, the fruit is backed up with anise, cola and dark chocolate. Fun, fruity, but well-made and solid for the price. (86 points)

2013 Las Moradas de San Martín Senda - Spain, Madrid, Vinos de Madrid
SRP: $15
Light purple color. Rich and dark on the nose with roasted figs, black cherries, along with anise, magic markers and coffee. Full-bodied, medium tannins, medium-low acidity. Dark plums, currants, saucy fruit mixed with spiced black tea, anise, charcoal and cedar. Bold, forward but built well. Calls for a big cut of grilled meat. 10 months in French oak. (87 points)

2015 Bodegas Ignacio Marin Ballad - Spain, Aragón, Cariñena
SRP: $20
Light purple color. Classic, sweet, rich Garnacha aromas of raspberry jam, plum sauce, with some vanilla and dark chocolate. Fully, velvety, soft tannins, low acidity, this is all about the sweet plum cake and saucy raspberry fruit. Some coffee, chocolate and vanilla accents as well. Fun, chewy, rich, crowd-pleasing dessert wine. (86 points)

2016 Domaine de la Rectorie Banyuls Cuvée Thérèse Reig - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Banyuls
SRP: $33/500ml
Deep purple color. Saucy blueberries, roasted figs, along with clove, toasted coconut, vanilla and coffee grounds. Full and bold on the palate with quite strong tannins but medium acidity, plenty of sweetness, but the balance is aligned very nicely. A warm compote of blueberries, blackberries, roasted fig, laced with charcoal, clove, graham cracker, cinnamon. Complex and evocative already, this is an excellent Banyuls with many, many years ahead. I’d love to bury this for 20 years and hope I’m alive to taste it. (92 points)

2015 Domaine Jones Grenache Gris - France, Roussillon, Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes
SRP: $28

Deep yellow color. Love the nose: deep yet bright, with apricot, lemon curd, lime, salted almond, sea breeze, crushed chalk. Plump texture, a fascinating depth and waxy element, but tangy too, and the balance is lovely. Lemon, orange pith, apricot, with lots of sea salt, chalk, mountain stream, minerals, as well as honey, white tea and olive oil-like elements. Complex, vibrant, gorgeous. (91 points)

2015 Ferraton Père & Fils St. Joseph La Source - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph
SRP: $32
Light purple color. Aromas of plums, juicy black cherries, topped in roasted herbs, espresso, campfire smoke and black pepper. Medium-bodied with medium+ tannins and moderating acidity, nice grip but the wine is fleshy and lively, too. Tart black currants and roasted figs and plum cake topped in charcoal, espresso, some black olives. Nice depth but also quite vibrant and ready to drink, although this could easily be cellared for a few years. (88 points)

2017 Château de Campuget Costières-de-Nîmes Rosé 1753 - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Costières-de-Nîmes
SRP: $16
Medium copper color. On the nose, an explosion of peaches, apricot, topped in nettle, honeysuckle and tropical flower petals. Plump texture on the palate but fresh acidity. Loads of white peaches, cantaloupe, apricot and lemons. I get notes of chalk, sea salt, lots of spicy floral and tea elements, some pepper and herbs. Juicy and fruity but vibrant and quite complex. 80% Syrah and 20% Vermentino. (89 points)

2015 Domaine de Poulvarel Costières-de-Nîmes Les Perrottes - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Costières-de-Nîmes
SRP: $32
Light purple color. Dark and saucy on the nose with black cherry compote, loaded with violets, black pepper, coffee and charcoal. Full-bodied, solid grip from the tannins, medium acidity. Darker, Syrah-dominated fruit (blackberries and black cherries) mixed nicely with elements of pepper, cocoa, dark chocolate and earth. Big and dark but showing some good complexity, but I think this will be more expressive in two-to-four years. 65% Syrah, 30% Grenache, 5% Carignan. (89 points)

2014 Michel Gassier Costières-de-Nîmes Nostre Païs - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Costières-de-Nîmes
SRP: $20
Medium ruby color. Lots of aromas of pepper, sage, leather, grilled lamb, along with raspberries, cherries and plums. Full but fresh on the palate, the velvety tannins provide backbone while the acidity keeps the wine lively. Cool cherries, plums and raspberries laced with pepper, leather, chewing tobacco, grilled meats, and notes of earth and minerals as well. Showing very well now but this could hold for at least a few years. 35% Grenache, 25% Carignan, 20% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre, 5% Cinsault. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Conegliano Valdobbiadene: Step-Up Prosecco

Conegliano Valdobbiadene vineyards (Source: Prosecco.it)

For the past five to ten years, I’ve read countless articles on the rise of Prosecco. It’s a less expensive alternative to Champagne, it’s gaining in popularity with millenial drinkers, sales keep growing, etc. And, today, Prosecco is indeed the world’s best-selling sparkling wine by volume — while Champagne brings in a whole lot more revenue.

Here in the States, I’ve seen a lot of Proseccos geared toward a younger American market arrive in my samples pile, and at my local grocery and wine shops. Especially around the holidays in the DC market, Prosecco was everywhere.

I’ll admit my personal bias up front: if someone gave me $100 to spend on Champagne or $200 to spend on Prosecco, I would not hesitate to snag that single Benjamin. And while Champagne-method sparkling wines are far more intriguing to me, sparkling wine isn’t a zero-sum game. And there are some good Proseccos out there.

A good place to start would be wines from the Conegliano Valdobbiadene Superiore appellation. This appellation earned its DOCG status in 2009. These grapes are sourced from the rolling hills of 15 different municipalities around the centers of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene. The soils here are composed of clay, loam, sandstone and other elements, and the wines show more depth and complexity than your typical Prosecco. Some Conegliano Valdobbiadene wines carry the special designation “Rive,” which indicates wine grown from specific hilly municipalities, from a specific vintage, manual harvesting required, etc.

If you want to find the cream of the crop, check out wines from the DOCG Superiore di Cartizze. Within the Conegliano Valdobbiadene appellation, these wines are sourced exclusivley from about 100 hectares on the steep hill of Cartizze, and I’ve found these wines show interesting minerality and a lot of depth.

I recently tasted through six Proseccos from the Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG, and gained some more appreciation for these wines, many of which show serious value. I received these bottles as trade samples and tasted them single-blind.

N.V. Sanfeletto Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore Extra Dry - Italy, Veneto, Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore
$12
Pale lemon color. Aromas of lemons, green apples and melon, chalk dusty, lots of sugar cane and dandelions. Zippy, light, fine bubbles, medium acidity, some nice creaminess to the texture with sugar cane elements. Lemon meringue, green melons, lots and lots of flowers (orange blossom, baby’s breath, perfume and clean laundry). Fun, fresh, nice and crisp and pleasant. 100% Glera from the Feletto area, 13 g/l sugar. (87 points)

N.V. Le Rughe Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore Extra Dry “Rivaj” - Italy, Veneto, Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore
$15
Light yellow color. Nose shows lemons, green apples, topped in honeysuckle, dandelions, sea salt, floral perfume. Light-bodied and brisk on the palate with yellow and green apples, lemons. Lots of floral perfume, baby’s breath, dandelions, some chalky notes. I get elements of apple cider and cinnamon as well. Lean but some fun elements here, and nicely balanced. 15 g/l sugar. (88 points)

2017 Bartolomiol Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore "Prior" Brut - Italy, Veneto, Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore
$13
Light yellow color. Nose boasts white peaches, green melon, apricot, with honey and orange blossoms. Fresh and bright and light on the palate with a salty, mineral appeal that is more evident than in most other wines in the tasting. White peaches, green melons, nectarine, along with baby’s breath, orange blossom. Very crisp and easy-drinking but significant complexity. 8 g/l sugar. (87 points)

N.V. Valdo Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore “Cuvée 1926” - Italy, Veneto, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG
$14
Bright lemon color. Bright aromatics with peaches, green melon, lemon curd, along with sea salt and white flowers. On the palate this is dry and bright with a salty, lemony approach, along with peaches and green melon. Perfumed, bright, with salted almond, chalky minerals, yet there’s a depth to this wine that is really attractive. (89 points)

2017 Mongarda Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore Brut - Italy, Veneto, Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore
$17

Bright yellow color. Aromas of peach nectar and limes, with crushed chalk, hay, baby’s breath and sea salt. Crisp and light on the palate, with a zesty, tart, mineral-driven appeal. Limes, peaches, guava, topped in saline, honeysuckle and sea salt. Light but complex, lean but lively, this has a lot of mineral and some oyster shell notes that really pop on the finish. Impressive complexity. 4 g/l of residual sugar. (90 points)

2016 BiancaVigna Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore Extra Brut Rive Di Soligo - Italy, Veneto, Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore
$13
Light yellow color. Lots of depth, with yellow apples, apricot, lemon curd, with chalky, bread dough and seashell notes. Brisk acidity, a bracing appeal on a light-bodied frame, with candied lemon peel, orange peel, green apples, with lots of crushed chalk, meringue, sea salt. Lots of mineral depth here, a nice salty, briny element, too on a dry, bright frame. I really like this stuff. Only 2 g/l residual sugar. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: California New Releases

As the year wraps up and 2019 begins, I have one last round-up of new releases from California.

This week, I have another batch from Lake County stalwart producer Jed Steele. I’ve said it before (a bunch of times), and I’ll say it again: some of these wines are so damned good for the money.

I also tasted two vintages of Calla Lily’s Audax Napa Cabernet. The fruit is sourced from a vineyard, first planted in 1995, on the eastern side of Howell Mountain. The vineyard is planted to mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, with some Petite Sirah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petite Verdot. They’re big and bold, but I found them vibrant and quite balanced as well.

In this report, I cover the newest vintages of Chalk Hill’s Chardonnay, Louis Martini’s Monte Rosso Vineyard Cabernet, and some new (to me) red wines from Joseph Stephens, a winery in the Santa Clara Valley owned by the Silicon Valley Wine Company.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2017 Eberle Chardonnay Estate - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

SRP: $24

Medium yellow color. Nose shows bruised apples, glazed pear, topped in cinnamon, honey, almond and sea salt. Crisp acidity frames the wine nicely, while plump texture holds up the rich apple and apricot fruit. Notes of salted almond, graham cracker, sea salt and honeycomb. Rich but still lively. Half stainless steel, half of the wine spends time in 25% new French oak. (87 points)

2016 Chalk Hill Chardonnay - California, Sonoma County, Chalk Hill

SRP: $42

Light gold color. On the nose, I get a combination of rich honey, cinnamon, pecans, along with lemon, white flowers and sea salt. Full texture but medium acidity, creamy but crisp, with all sorts of apples, apricots, lemons. Complex notes of sea shells, salted almond, white flowers, and the deeper notes of honeycomb and toasted marshmallow are woven in well. Rich mouthfeel, lots of textural depth, but also maintains an inviting freshness. Full maloactic fermentation and 11 months in 40% new French oak. (90 points)

2017 Steele Wines Pinot Blanc - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County

SRP: $20

Pale straw color. On the nose: peachy! Lots of juicy green melons, lemon curd as well, some orange blossom and clover. On the palate, precise acidity, this is juicy and fun with some nice textural depth, and flavors of green melon, key lime and lemon curd. Notes of orange blossom, perfume, new tennis ball, honeysuckle. This is sourced from Bien Nacido Vineyard, spends six months in old French oak, and is a fascinating and delicious wine, especially for the price. (89 points) 

2016 Steele Wines Shooting Star Cabernet Sauvignon - California, North Coast, Lake County

SRP: $16

Bright purple color. Nose shows tart red and black currants and cherries with a smoky, minty, earthy element. Full but velvety on the palate, medium acidity, a bright and crunchy core of currants and plums. Notes of herbs, spiced coffee mix in nicely. Tangy and earthy finish. It’s hard to find California Cabernet of this quality at this price point. (87 points)

2016 Eberle Cabernet Sauvignon Vineyard Selection - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

SRP: $25

Rich purple color. Dark and juicy on the nose with sweet plums, currant jam, smoky charcoal and root beer notes. Medium/full-bodied with soft tannins, moderate acidity, and a chewy texture. Plums and currants and black cherries, ripe and jammy fruit, this is a forward, fun, fan-friendly wine with notes of cola, chocolate and vanilla. 100% Cabernet. (85 points)

2014 Louis M. Martini Cabernet Sauvignon Monte Rosso Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley

SRP: $85

Lively purple color. Beautiful nose of tangy red and black currants, sweet plums, lots of roses, violets, dusty earth, sweet cocoa, cedar – really gorgeous and complex on the nose. This wine is full and juicy but the acidity is lively and crisp, my mouth waters but the tannins provide serious grip. Tangy red and black currants and plums, really pretty, deep fruit, laced with complex elements of eucalyptus, dusty earth, clay, violets, with cocoa and espresso. Lovely now but shows lots of complexity and aging potential. All Cabernet Sauvignon aged 26 months in French and American oak. (91 points)

2014 Arrowood Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley

SRP: $35

Light purple color. Nose show juicy black cherries, plums, kirsch, along with sweet coffee, roasted herbs, vanilla and anise. Full-bodied with a plummy, ripe, juicy feel and velvety tannins, medium-low acidity. Plums and candied black cherries mix with coconut, anise, sweet vanilla coffee and some roasted earth notes. Forward, ripe, fun, crowd-pleasing stuff. Includes 16% Merlot and 4% Malbec aged 24 months in French and American oak. (88 points)

2013 Calla Lily Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Audax - California, Napa Valley

SRP: $120

Deep purple color. Nose shows tart black currant, juicy blackberries (gorgeous depth of fruit), with complex notes of mint, scorched earth, cocoa nibs, violets, deep but vibrant scents in here. Full but not heavy (14.5% alcohol), held together with sturdy tannins and surprisingly fresh acidity. Deep, concentrated but tangy black currants and dark plums, the fruit is juicy but really vibrant, and laced with a nice mix of earth, mint, dark chocolate and cedar. Fresh enough to be enjoyed now, but strength for the cellar, surely. (93 points)

2014 Calla Lily Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Audax - California, Napa Valley

SRP: $120

Deep purple color. Concentrated fruit on the nose (black currant, blackberries and blueberries), with deep violets, spiced black tea, earth, cocoa and mint. Full-bodied, a bit more powerful in its presence than the 2013, but still vibrant acidity, and the tannins are sturdy but show rounded edges. Pretty depth of fruit (currants, blackberries, plums), but it’s still nice and fresh. Notes of anise, cocoa, earth, mint and cedar. Plush and forward but lively. This could use five to eight years in the cellar, but it’s a lovely wine. 14.7% alcohol. (93 points)

2013 Freemark Abbey Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford - California, Napa Valley, Rutherford

SRP: $70

Deep purple color. Rich purple color, with dark, concentrated blueberry, black cherry, along with anise, eucalyptus, dark chocolate, cocoa and earth. Full-bodied, significant tannins but it maintains a velvety feel, medium-low acidity. A dark, saucy style with blueberries, cassis, blackberries, along with notes of mint, eucalyptus, sweet cocoa, cedar. Rich and delicious but the balance lines up nicely here. Hedonistic now, but this could do some fun things over the next five years. Includes Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, aged 28 months in 67% new French oak. (90 points)

2014 Bootleg Wine Works Red - California, Napa Valley

SRP: $38

Medium purple color. Heck of a lot of plums and blackberries on the nose, with roasted fig, smoky charcoal, vanilla and mint. Full-bodied on the palate, this wine is all about the velvety mouthfeel, medium-low acidity, along with juicy plums, black cherries, blueberries, juicy and plump. Notes of mocha, scorched earth, vanilla, roasted chestnut. Big and hedonistic but well-made and undeniably yummy. A blend of Syrah, Merlot, Petite Sirah, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 18 months in French and American oak. (89 points)

2014 Jason Stephens Winery Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Central Coast, Santa Clara Valley

SRP: $34

Light purple color. Aromas of spice tea, anise and cocoa underneath currant jam, cherry compote, with tobacco and magic marker notes. Full but plush, chewy yet moderating acidity. Plums and currant compote laced with chai, clove, sweet coffee, anise and cedar. Bold but vibrant, cool stuff from Santa Clara! Includes 10% Merlot, 6% Malbec, 6% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc, aged 30 months in 25% new American oak. (88 points)

2014 Jason Stephens Winery Meritage - California, Central Coast, Santa Clara Valley

SRP: $34

Rich purple color. Aromas of saucy black cherries, dark plums, with a mix of floral potpourri, sweet cocoa, roasted and candied nuts. Full but suave on the palate with rich, plush tannins and medium/low acidity. Plummy, saucy black fruit mixed with cocoa, coffee, sweet pipe tobacco and herbs. Lovely, juicy, rich but accessible. 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot, 10% Malbec, 10% Carmenere, 10% Cabernet Franc, aged 36 months in oak. (88 points)

2014 Jason Stephens Winery Merlot - California, Central Coast, Santa Clara Valley

SRP: $24

Light purple color. Gushing nose of plums, black and red cherries, along with cinnamon, sweet herbs and vanilla. Full but smooth on the palate, velvety tannins, moderate acidity, and plenty of currants, plums, raspberry jam, backed up with anise, violets, vanilla. Juicy and suave fruit but a liveliness pervades the wine, too. Includes 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Malbec, aged 36 month in 25% new oak. (88 points)

2016 French Bar Petite Sirah - California

SRP: $16

Bright purple color. Nose shows sweet cherries, boysenberry, with cola and black pepper glaze. Full and juicy on the palate with fleshy tannins and medium acidity. Flavors of baked figs, plum cake, tart currants, mixed with coffee and cola. Fun, approachable style. Includes 5% Teroldego and 2% Petite Verdot, aged eight months in French oak. (85 points)

2016 Steele Wines Shooting Star Zinfandel - California, North Coast, Lake County

SRP: $14

Dark ruby color. Aromas of plump plums, raspberries, juicy cherries, with roses, rhubarb and tobacco notes. Full-bodied but really vibrant, the acidity sings, and the tannins and smooth and velvety tannins. Lots of juicy, ripe but vibrant red berry fruit mixed in with tobacco, cocoa, mint and rose petals. Loving this ripe but crisp feel. Aged eight months in 20% new American and Hungarian oak. (87 points)

2016 Steele Wines Zinfandel Writer's Block - California, North Coast, Lake County

SRP: $18

Bright purple color. Juicy and plummy on the nose with raspberries and black cherries, topped in spicy tobacco, black pepper, roses, rhubarb. Juicy and approachable on the palate with light tannins and fresh acidity, and a nice mix of tangy raspberries, plums and black cherries. Smoky, tar, tobacco and floral tones mixed in nicely. Vibrant and fresh but fruity and fun. Aged 12 months in 15% new oak. (87 points)

2015 Markus Wine Co. Domo - California, Central Valley, Lodi

SRP: $39

Bright ruby color. Lovely aromas of spiced black tea, anise, violets and earth over tart red currants and raspberries. On the palate, this is crisp and vibrant, medium-bodied, with velvety tannins, but packed with flavor. Plummy with raspberries and black cherries, topped in complex notes of anise, cocoa, violets, pepper, earth. Deep mineral notes. complex yet deep and bright. This is gorgeous. Carignan, Petite Sirah and Syrah. (92 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Exploring Wines from Michigan's Old Mission Peninsula

This week, I’m digging into some wines from Michigan’s Old Mission Peninsula. The state overall has lots of vineyards, most of which are planted to juice grapes like Concord and Niagara. But, wine grape acreage has been increasing and now tops 3,000 acres, putting it in the top 10 states. Some 50 different wine grape varieties are grown here, with Riesling the main one, followed by Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Franc. 

Most of Michigan’s grapes are grown close to Lake Michigan, like these ones from the Old Mission Peninsula American Viticultural Area (AVA). The lake affects the winegrowing by extends the growing season and it moderates the climate in the coldest months and can protect against frost. The Old Mission Peninsula juts out from Traverse City, and its rolling hills are surrounded on both sides by the East and West Traverse Bays of Lake Michigan.The nine wineries of the Old Mission Peninsula account for nearly 30% of the state’s wine grapes (and each winery is represented in this report). 

I’ve tasted a decent amount of Michigan wines in the past, but this lot was the most impressive I’ve come across yet. The white wines have a brisk, vibrant, aspect to them. Just smelling a few of these wines made me salivate. I’m glad this lot focused less on reds. I love Loire Valley reds even in wet vintages, for example, but I’ve felt some Michigan reds can struggle with body and depth. 

That said, I am stoked about the Michigan Gamay in this report. I kept revisiting it because it fascinated me, as a Beaujolais devotee and fan of Gamay from other regions. I was also excited to learn that, according to Michigan Wines, Gamay Noir acreage jumped from almost nothing in 2014, to 29 acres in 2016. I can only hope to find more Michigan Gamay of this quality.  

You may be skeptical (and for good reason), and surely there are some uninspired wines from Michigan. But there are some seriously good wines out here. I would drink the Bowers Chardonnay in this report over pretty much any California Chardonnay at a $16 price point, for example. And, seriously, the Chateau Grand Traverse Dry Riesling may be my favorite Riesling in America for its price. And even though this is a small sample size, I’m excited to follow how the rest of American opens up to Michigan’s wine culture. 

The wines below were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2016 Black Star Farms Sauvignon Blanc Arcturos - USA, Michigan, Leelanau Peninsula
SRP: $18
Pale straw color. Zesty on the nose, with limes, lemons, guava, topped with nettle, white pepper and cucumber slices. Pleasantly light and fresh on the palate with crisp, zesty acidity and flavors of lemons and limes drizzled over guava. Notes of chalk and white flowers mix with nettle, mint and white pepper. A crisp, bright, vibrant, easy-drinking style of Sauv Blanc. (86 points) 

2017 Bowers Harbor Vineyards Chardonnay Unwooded - USA, Michigan, Old Mission Peninsula
SRP: $16
Light yellow color. Juicy aromas of green and yellow apples, kiwi, topped in yellow flowers and chalk dust. Plush texture, nice depth, but this is a bright and zesty Chardonnay with a salty, chalky streak to match the green apples and lemon curd. A cool mix of breezy floral and deeper honey and raw almond notes, with an underlying mineral streak. A pure, zesty, impressive Chardonnay from Michigan. (88 points) 

2017 Chateau Grand Traverse Dry Riesling - USA, Michigan, Old Mission Peninsula
SRP: $13
Medium yellow color. Aromas of juicy peaches, green melon, with a lovely flinty, mineral, chalky, mountain stream aesthetic, and plenty of flowers. Crisp and nervy on the palate, lots of texture and depth but so tangy, brisk and dry, too. White peaches, limes, lemons, mixed with complex floral and honey notes. Lovely stony, mineral, crushed shell aspect. I’ve enjoyed this producer before but this is an eye-opening Old Mission Peninsula Riesling. Crazy value. 10.5% alcohol. (90 points)

2016 Hawthorne Vineyards Rosé - USA, Michigan, Old Mission Peninsula
SRP: $12
Light raspberry color. Smells of subtle red fruits and floral tones, raspberries, sour red apple, roses and some white pepper. Crisp acidity on the palate, this shows high-toned red fruit (crunchy red apple, tangy cherry), along with rose petals and white pepper. Fun, straightforward, tangy, stuff, not too complex, but well made. A saignée method blend of Cabernet Franc, Pinot Meunier, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Gamay. (85 points) 

2016 2 Lads Cabernet Franc - USA, Michigan, Old Mission Peninsula
SRP: $35
Deep ruby color. Intense aromatics with tons of spice (black pepper, tobacco, clove) along with roses and tangy red currants. Dusty, light tannins on the palate with crisp, crunchy acidity. A leaner style with tangy red currants, red and black cherries. Lots of roses, pepper, sage, tobacco, over a constantly zippy aesthetic. Fresh, vibrant, interesting stuff! Includes 15% Merlot, aged nine months in a mix of French oak. (88 points) 

2017 Mari Vineyards Gamay Noir - USA, Michigan, Old Mission Peninsula
SRP: $26
Bright purple color. Love the nose: tart cherries, red currants, pomegranate, with elements of earth, pepper and rose petals. Crisp acidity frames this wine so well, and light tannins provide enough structure, but this goes down easily, with juicy but tart cherries, cranberries and red currants. Notes of roses, violets, black pepper, black tea and mushroom add significant complexity. A spicy, tart, vibrant, fruity, eye-opening Gamay for me. This was the first vintage of Gamay from this winery’s Jamieson Vineyard, and if this is any sign, this is a wine to pay attention to in the future. (90 points) 

2016 Brys Estate Pinot Noir Reserve - USA, Michigan, Old Mission Peninsula
SRP: $32
Pale ruby color. Bright and vibrant on the nose, rose petals, rhubarb, clove, white pepper, along with red cherries, cranberries, red apples, love the spicy edge to it. Medium-bodied on the palate with brisk, refreshing acidity and light, fine-grained tannins. Bright and crunchy with herbal tones that pop (rose petals, rhubarb, white pepper, clove). A bright style but shows some smoothness and velvety appeal, too. (87 points) 

2016 Chateau Chantal Proprietor's Reserve Trio - USA, Michigan, Old Mission Peninsula
SRP: $27
Light purple color. Aromas of tart cherries and red plums, along with rose hips, spicy pepper, sliced bell pepper and smoky tar. Medium-bodied on the palate with zippy acidity and lean tannins, a brisk approach here. Tart plums and cherries topped in spicy pepper, anise, rhubarb and soy. Lighter, fresher, veggie-friendly style. A blend of 61% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Franc and 1% Pinot Noir. (85 points)

2016 Peninsula Cellars Riesling Late Harvest - USA, Michigan, Old Mission Peninsula
SRP: $19
Light straw color. Aromas of sugar cane, white flowers, clean laundry, on top of white peaches, honey and spiced tea. Plump and rich on the palate, sweet and honeyed but crisp, vibrant acidity throughout, and the depth is impressive. Oranges, white peaches, apricots, honeyed and juicy but vibrant and crisp with mineral, chalky, floral elements. This is lovely, balanced stuff. 8.5% alcohol, 8.75% residual sugar. (87 points) 

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: Year-End Round-Up

Happy holidays, wine-lovers! I sure hope your holidays are filled with friends, family, fun, and plenty of good wine. As the year wraps up, I have a bunch of wines that didn’t fit neatly into a particular category, so I wanted to include them in my final grab bag report of 2018. And this one has some goodies.

Starting with Argentina’s Domaine Bousquet: Their vineyards, in the Andes foothills appellation of Tupungato, sit in gravelly, sandy soils at about 4,000 feet in elevation. The wines have lots of juicy fruit but the freshness is really attractive, and the balance and depth for their prices is quite impressive.

Ferraton Père & Fils deliver yet again with a pair of sub-$20 Rhone blends, a white and a red, which offer up a lot of class and style in this price point. At $30, M. Chapoutier’s new vintage of the Occultum Lapidem red blend is insanely good, deep, and cellar-worthy.

Italy’s Abruzzi region has a few value-friendly wines in this report, as well as an Amarone that would pair perfectly with a snowstorm and a campfire. Portugal’s Douro provides a few tasty red blends in this report, while I’ve included three American reds from Inconceivable. Lastly, Troon, from Oregon’s Applegate Valley, comes through again with an excellent pair of Tannat-based reds. They excel with all sorts of grapes and wines, and I loved these reds for their uniquely fresh, crunchy, lip-smacking appeal.

All of these wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2017 Domaine Bousquet Chardonnay Reserve - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Tupungato
SRP $18
Medium yellow color. Nose shows honey, peanut brittle, almond and ginger on top of yellow apples and apricots. Plump and rich texturally, but zesty acidity, and the balance is quite nice. Juicy apples and apricot mixed with graham cracker, almond, honeyed white tea, with salty, floral tones, too. Rich but fresh, a nice combination of elements here, this is delicious and good for the price. (88 points)

2017 Domaine Bousquet Malbec Reserve - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Tupungato
SRP: $18
Rich purple color. Deep and saucy but bright with spiced cranberry sauce, fig paste, smoky blackberries, with pipe tobacco, charcoal pit, and sweet, spiced black tea – lots going on here. Rich texture, velvety tannins, the acidity is vibrant. Tangy black cherries, plum, cranberry jam, with lots of herbal, earthy, spicy elements, an underlying mineral, floral aesthetic. Toffee and cocoa notes woven in nicely. Lots on offer here, but it’s still fresh, fun, and easy-drinking style for consumption over the next few years. Includes 5% apiece of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah, aged 10 months in French oak. (90 points)

2017 Ferraton Père & Fils Côtes du Rhône Blanc Samorëns - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône
SRP: $16
Light yellow color. Juicy peaches and guava, some lemon crème pie, sea salt and honey. Juicy, plump, waxy texture but fresh acidity. Yellow apples, peaches, guava, the fruit is topped in flowers, honey, hay, sea salt. All elements woven in quite nicely, and there’s a delicious mineral kick on the zesty finish. A blend of Clairette and Grenache Blanc. Solid value, loving the freshness. (88 points)

2017 Ferraton Père & Fils Côtes du Rhône Villages Rouge Plan de Dieu - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages Plan de Dieu
SRP: $18
Light purple color. Super spicy on the nose, with sage, menthol, black pepper, bay leaf, scorched earth, over top of raspberries and black cherries. Suave and velvety on the palate, medium/full-bodied with moderating acidity. Raspberries, black cherries, plum sauce, the fruit is mixed with anise, pepper, earth and leather. Lots of interesting flavors here, this is really nicely done for the price. 65 % Grenache, 25% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre. (88 points)

2016 M. Chapoutier Domaine de Bila-Haut Occultum Lapidem - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon Villages Latour
SRP: $30
Deep purple color. Nose of concentrated black currants and dark plums, mixed with lots of violets, menthol, anise, grilled herbs, some leather and pepper, too. Serious grip from the tannins but the acidity is lovely and balancing, and the black fruit is dark and deep but crunchy. Lots of black pepper, sage, mint, coffee anise, this is packed with depth and flavor but stays fresh. This has the stuffing to age and improve for at least a decade. 50% Syrah, 30% Grenache and 20% Carignan from vines averaging 60 years old. (92 points)

2017 Fattoria La Valentina Pecorino - Italy, Abruzzi, Colline Pescaresi IGT
SRP: $16
Deep yellow color. Aromas of pineapple, lemon, papaya, with some flowers and honey. Juicy and plump on the palate with crisp acidity, and flavors of pineapple, apricot and lemon cake. Notes of sea salt, minerals, whipped honey and almond, this is rich and deep but stays lively and crisp, too. Complexity is impressive. All stainless steel. (89 points)

2015 Fattoria La Valentina Montepulciano d'Abruzzo - Italy, Abruzzi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
SRP: $14
Rich purple color. Plump and juicy on the palate with plump black cherries, cassis, coffee, vanilla. Chewy texture on the palate with medium/light tannins and moderating acidity. Juicy black cherries, plums, topped in smoke, earth, coffee and vanilla. Juicy, accessible, fun stuff. Mostly stainless steel with some Slavonian oak. (86 points)

2015 Fattoria La Valentina Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Riserva Spelt - Italy, Abruzzi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
SRP: $21
Light purple color. Aromas of dark cherries, plums, blackberry, along with earthy, dark flower petals, clove, some leathery notes. Smooth texture on the palate, dusty tannins with moderating acidity, fresh black cherries and plums abound. I get notes of smoky charcoal, leather, mint, clove and earth. Some floral and savory elements on the finish. This is in a good place now but could do well with a few more years. Aged 16 months in Slavonian oak. (90 points)

2013 Pasqua Amarone della Valpolicella - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella
SRP: $50
Deep purple color. The nose shows lots of roasted plums and figs, cassis, violets, and some cool incense, coffee, earth and peppery notes. Full and rich, grippy but not too heavy or harsh, with some medium acidity for balance. Suave but tart black cherries, raisings and roasted figs, backed up with black licorice, coffee, cedar and dark chocolate. Impressive depth, but not heavy, this shows some interesting earthy, savory elements on the finish as well. Cellar-worthy but surprisingly accessible in its youth. 65% Corvina, 25% Rondinella, 5% Corvinone and 5% Negrara. (90 points)

2016 Dow Douro Reserva Vale do Bomfim - Portugal, Douro
SRP: $13
Deep purple color. Nose is deep and dark with roasted plums, blackberries, violets, earth, warm black tea. Juicy on the palate, a medium/full-bodied frame with velvety tannins and lively acidity. Dark, saucy fruit (plums and black cherries) mixed with dark chocolate, violets, loamy earth, charcoal. Warm, lovely, dark and earthy but vibrant, this is so good at this price point. (88 points)

2015 Quinta do Vesuvio Douro Pombal do Vesuvio - Portugal, Douro
SRP: $28
Rich purple color. Nose shows lots of plums, black cherries and blackberries, topped in vanilla, cocoa, but also soy and spicy herbs. The palate shows structured tannins (not harsh), moderating acidity, and lots of tangy black cherries and cassis. Quite complex in terms of the pepper, earth, sage, smoky charcoal and mineral tones. Showing well now but will improve over the next few years. A blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Naciona and Tinta Amarela, aged 10 months in French oak. (89 points)

2015 Inconceivable Wines Pinot Noir - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $25
Medium ruby color. Bright red and juicy black cherries, along with sweet raspberry, cola, with cocoa, mint and sweet tobacco. Juicy but really fresh on the palate, with vibrant acidity and smooth, light tannins. Red cherries and juicy plums, tangy but plump fruit, mixed in with notes of roasted chestnut, mint, eucalyptus, cola and roses. A lot going on here for the price. Aged 10 months in 60% new French oak. (88 points)

2014 Inconceivable Wines Cabernet Sauvignon - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $25
Light purple color. Nose shows tangy black cherries and juicy plums, I get a nice mix of earth, cocoa, cedar and eucalyptus. Full-bodied (14.5%) with slightly chewy tannins and medium acidity. Tangy black currants and cherries, nice zip to the fruit. Mixed in with tobacco, earth, charcoal and some moderate cocoa and cedar. Fun stuff, accessible but nice complexity as well. Includes some Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec, this wine spends 23 months in a mix of used and new French oak. (88 points)

2014 Inconceivable Wines Red - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $25
Light purple color. Nose boasts juicy plums and sweet black cherries, along with a nice mix of tobacco, smoky charcoal, pepper and earth. Full-bodied and smooth, light grip to the tannins, not harsh but nice structure, medium acidity, all balanced quite well. Plums, blackberries and tart black cherries mix with tobacco, pepper, leather, soy, some cocoa and vanilla. Complexity and balance is really impressive at this price point. Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre and Viognier. (90 points)

2016 Troon Vineyard Tannat - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $40
Deep purple color. Tart but deep on the nose, with tangy black cherries, dark plums, and loaded with lavender, violets, roses, inky and coffee and clove. Full-bodied with some serious grip to the tannins, but moderated by lovely acidity. Tart black cherries, cassis, lovely fruit mixed with complex notes of flowers, potpourri, clove, anise, rocky earth. Long, full, complex, I’m stoked to see what this does with five years or so in the cellar. Aged 18 months in mature oak. (90 points)
2016 Troon Vineyard Cuvée Pyrénées - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $60
Bright purple color. Aromas of tart blackberries, sour cherries, black currant, raspberry, such bright and lively fruit mixed in with sage, violets, clove, warm leather and herbs. Crisp and lively acidity from start to finish on the palate, with velvety tannins and vibrant red and black fruit (currants, plums, raspberries), laced with savory herbs, lots of violets and floral potpourri. Deep earthy, mineral element here, too. Vibrant and delicious now but I’d be interested in what this does over the next few years. Tannat and Malbec, co-fermented, aged 18 months in old oak. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.