Black Kite Cellars' Exciting Chardonnays and Pinots

Anderson Valley Pinot Noir likely needs no introduction here. This Mendocino appellation is packed with well-known vineyards and producers, making quite a wide array of styles.

Among them, Black Kite Cellars has an impressive portfolio. Kicked off in 2003, Black Kite Cellars is the product of Rebecca and Tom Birdsall, and co-founded by Rebecca’s parents, Donald and Maureen Green. They bought the site that would become Kite’s Rest in 1995, and it was replanted to Pinot Noir in 1999. Divided into several blocks, the 40-acre parcel rises up from the Navarro River (River Turn), through gravelly loam (Stony Terrace), and up to the edge of the forest (Redwood’s Edge). The wines are made by Jeff Gaffner, formerly of Arrowood, who also has his own label, Saxon Brown.

They produce five different Pinot Noirs from their estate Kite’s Rest vineyard (their “home” Pinots), in addition to some “away” Pinot Noirs from other sites. The Pinot Noirs offers a great look into the differences between these sites. And their Chardonnays, sourced from some epic Sonoma sites, are delightful. Two are featured today.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted single-blind.

California Wines for Summertime

It’s not officially summer in the Northern Hemisphere yet, but it sure does feel like it. Personally, I don’t handle any sort of heat and humidity well, unless I’m a stone’s throw from a beach or pool. So now that it’s regularly hitting 90+ degrees in DC, I won’t be popping too many red wines.

This Spring, I’ve received a lot of California wines that would do well to beat the heat, and I’ve compiled some white and pink wines that deliver. Smith-Madrone’s Spring Mountain Riesling does it again; it is consistently one of the most exciting California Rieslings I’ve come across. FEL represents Anderson Valley well with their three offerings, while Sonoma’s Notre Vue is a that’s putting out some exciting stuff.

Some eye-opening Sauvignon Blancs, a delicious Grenache Blanc and a few others round out this solid mix. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2017 Smith-Madrone Riesling – USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $34
Light yellow color. Aromas of gorgeous limes, orange peels, exquisite fruit mixed with white flowers, new tennis balls, wild mint, with chalky and saline tones. Pristine acidity, zesty, a chalky and salty appeal with white flowers, white pepper and wild green onion tones. Lime, orange and kiwi fruit provide generous support for this intense but refined wine. Perfume, focused, dry yet ripe, this is complex and age-worthy, and a consistently spectacular California Riesling. (94 points)

2019 Priest Ranch Grenache Blanc – USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena
SRP: $22
Pale straw color. Wow, so bright on the nose, with lemon, lime and kiwi fruit, topped with seashells, oyster brine, chalk and notes of green olive. Racy on the palate but lovely depth of texture, with bright acidity and an essence that reminds me of mountain streams meeting crashing ocean waves. Limes, kiwi and pineapple fruit mix with tones of sea salt, orange peel, white tea and oyster shell. Really exciting stuff, expressive, vibrant, complex, and absurdly good for the price. Stainless steel fermentation, native yeasts, aged on the lees for eight months. (91 points)

2019 Grieve Family Winery Double Eagle – USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $48
Pale lemon color. Aromas of limes, papaya, topped in honeysuckle, daisies, wild mint and fresh basil – really vibrant and bright. Crisp and delightful texture, with limes, peach and papaya fruit on the palate. Complex notes of salt, chalk dust, ocean spray, with bright floral and white tea tones. Deep but lively, focused but lots of complexity, and a racy, mineral-laden finish. All Sauvignon Blanc Aged sur lie in a mix of concrete eggs and French oak. (91 points)

2017 Castello di Amorosa Spumante Brut – USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $39
Deep yellow color. Perfume and bright on the nose with chalk dusty, white flowers, celery seed, over top of limes, kiwi and red apple peel. Bright and zesty on the palate, this is a clear and focused sparkler with limes, lemons and green and red apple fruit. Flinty and steely with floral perfume, chalk dust, saline and some spicy herbal tones. A brunch and seafood-friendly wine. A mix of 73% Chardonnay and 27% Pinot Noir. (88 points)

2019 Cormorant Cellars Sauvignon Blanc – USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley

SRP: $24
Deep yellow color. A natural but focused aromatic display of preserved lemon, melon rind, with honey, clover, white pepper, and interesting notes of tobacco barn and dried green herbs. Crisp acidity on a deeply-textured frame, with a mouthfeel that combines a bit of waxiness with some brininess, lots of mineral and saline tones. Orange peel and dried pineapple fruit mix with nots of green olive, oregano and mint. Equally fascinating and delicious. This grapes are sourced from the Gio Martorana Vineyard, fermented in stainless steel and French oak, no fining, filtering, minimal SO2, this is as clear, focused and exciting a Sonoma Sauvignon Blanc at this price point I’ve come across in a long time. (91 points)

2020 Ram’s Gate Sauvignon Blanc – USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $38
Light yellow color. The aromas pop with zesty lime and generous white peach, topped in notes of honeysuckle, celery seed and sea salt. Crisp and nervy on the palate, this has a pretty, pure and mountain stream kind of feel, with limes, lemons and white peach. Focused and clear with notes of hay, lilies, floral perfume, with notes of minerals, crushed shells and limestone. A lean but lively Sauvignon Blanc that brings a lot to the table. Aged five months in a mix of oak (10% new, 80% neutral) and stainless steel. (89 points)

2020 Ram’s Gate Pinot Blanc – USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $38
Light yellow color. Aromas of lemons and kiwi, so fresh and also so floral, with daisies, honeysuckle, clover and clean laundry. Racy acidity frames the wine well, lovely texture. Flavors of lemons, green apple and orange peel on the palate, this is spritely and vibrant, with notes of minerals, sea spray, chalk, along with freshly-cut rose stems, sliced cucumber and oregano. Great hot weather wine, but complex as well, and so versatile. Aged five months in all neutral barrels. (90 points)

2018 Bouchaine Chardonnay Estate Vineyard – USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $32
Rich yellow color. The nose shows nutty and honeyed elements, with yellow apples and lemon curd, along with some almond and white tea. Plump texture on the palate, moderating acidity, this wine sports apricot and orange marmalade fruit mixed with elements of honey, graham cracker, cinnamon sticks, with some hay and salted almond tones. Ripe and delicious, but stays focused, too. Aged 10 months in 85% oak, 15% new, 50% maloactic fermentation. (89 points)

2019 Notre Vue Chardonnay – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $49
Medium yellow color. The nose shows yellow apples and apricot and orange peel, mixed with honey, crushed shells, pistachio and honey. Precise acidity keeps this lip-smacking, while the deep texture offers creaminess and juiciness. Yellow apple, apricot and lemon curd fruit is lively and ripe, and tossed together well with notes of candied ginger, honeycomb, peanut shell, along with mountain stream, minerals and chalk. Nuanced and balanced, highly delicious. (91 points)

2018 Gary Farrell Chardonnay Olivet Lane Vineyard – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $45
Medium yellow color. Aromas of oranges, yellow apples, lemon curd, with notes of honey, almond, with vanilla, also white tea and dandelion notes. Medium-plus-bodied with gorgeous texture, balanced with vibrant acidity. The fruit is like a mix of orange peel, kiwi and lemon curd, blended with richer notes of graham cracker, vanilla and nougat, but also this brisk, mineral-infused feel. Bold but vibrant, with this nuanced and fresh approach. For the price especially, yeah, this rocks. (92 points)

2020 FEL Pinot Gris – USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $28
Light yellow color. So peachy and fresh, like an open field of spring wildflowers and an herb garden of goodness over top lemon and orange peel. Zippy acidity, nice texture, this is focused and balanced on the palate with oranges, peaches and limes. Accents of white tea, clover, fresh laundry and honey add complexity. Lively, bright, spritely but complex stuff. Fermented in a 900-gallan French oak tank and aged five months on the lees. (90 points)

2019 FEL Chardonnay Anderson Valley ­- USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $32
Ripe yellow color. Fresh and floral on the nose, a nice mix of airy tones with deeper, honeyed, almond tones, over ripe yellow pears. Crisp acidity is a pleasure on the palate, with a moderately rich texture, and a chalky but honeyed balance. Lemon curd and apricot mix with honeycomb and light graham cracker mixed with crushed chalk and mineral tones. Harmonious, complex, a blend of some Anderson Valley vineyards, fermented in neutral oak and aged on the lees for ten months. (90 points)

Rosé wines

2019 Notre Vue Sparkling Rosé of GSM – USA, California, Sonoma County, Chalk Hill
SRP: $45
Medium copper color. Aromas of white cherries and wild raspberries, along with chalk dust, sea salt and some spicy green herbs. Crisp and zesty but nice depth, too. Tangy white cherries and wild raspberries, tangy red apple peel. Aromas of sea shells, talc and minerals with some saltine crackers. Brisk and bright but solid complexity. 52% Syrah, 32% Grenache and 16% Mourvedre. (89 points)

2020 Ram’s Gate Rosé – USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $38
Medium pink color. A lovely brightness on the nose, with a nice mix of raspberries, white cherries, McIntosh apple skins, along with saline, hay, sliced cucumber and lemon verbena. Fresh and crisp on the palate, but this shows solid textural depth as well on a plump but racy frame. Wild raspberry, strawberry and red apple fruit mix well with complexities of dandelion, nettle, floral perfume. Solid complex, really vibrant, with a complex mineral-laden finish. 61% Grenache, 30% Pinot Noir and 9% Syrah, fermented five months sur lie in neutral oak barrels. (90 points)

2019 Castello di Amorosa Pinot Noir Rosato Cresta d’Oro – USA, California, Sonoma County, Green Valley of Russian River Valley
SRP: $39
Pale salmon color. Aromas of lemons and white cherries, and a field of daisies edged in honeysuckle mixed in, with some celery seed and mint, too. Fresh and vibrant acidity with a plush texture and flavors of white cherries, wild raspberries and McIntosh apple, juicy but crunchy fruit. White flowers, rose petals, a brisk, quinine and mineral essence, too. Very pretty, floral and focused. All Pinot Noir, dry, fermented and aged in concrete eggs. (91 points)

2020 Bouchaine Pinot Noir Vin Gris of Pinot Noir Estate Vineyard – USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $29
Pale copper color. The aromas show salty, floral goodness, with yellow and white flowers overtop of peaches, green melon and cantaloupe. Zesty on the palate with a nice, round, creamy texture. Punchy but racy feel with plump raspberry and strawberry meeting tart white cherry. Notes of lemongrass, honeysuckle, chalk, and minerals add complexity. Nice cut, quite complex, delicious summer pink. All estate Pinot Noir from Napa’s southern portion of Carneros, 95% whole cluster pressed, all stainless steel. (89 points)
This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Wine Reviews: International Grab Bag

It’s been a very long time since I’ve traveled internationally, and with no plans for the future, I’m assuaging my travel lust this week with a mix of wines from all over the world.

I have some solid French wines in this report, including a diverse group of wines from the Languedoc region, some summer-friendly pink wines, and a delightful Chateauneuf. There are a few interesting wines from Germany (including a stellar Riesling), and some value from Portugal as well. Some crushable yet complex New Zealand reds make quite an impression, too.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2020 Domaine De Cala Côteaux Varois Rosé – France, Provence, Côteaux Varois
SRP: $20
Aromas of lemon, lime and guava, topped in sliced cucumber, chalk, hay and verbena. Light and zippy on the palate with crunchy, steely vibes, and flavors of grapefruit, orange peel and limes. Notes of white flowers, sea salt and celery seed add some complexity. Fresh, fun, springy-summery, salad-friendly rose. Grenache, Cinsault, Rolle and Syrah. (88 points)

2019 Domaine Montrose Côtes de Thongue Rosé – France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Côtes de Thongue
SRP : $15
Pale salmon color. Aromas of peaches and lemons, along with spiced white tea, shaved ginger and chalk tones. Zippy and tart on the palate with strawberry and wild raspberry. Spicy tones of pepper, mint and basil add some complexity. A tangy, fun rose. (86 points)

N.V. Michèle Capdepon Blanquette de Limoux Brut – France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Blanquette de Limoux
SRP: $19
Rich yellow color. A nice bready nose with salted cashews, honey, chalk, flowers, over top of yellow apples and orange peels. Crisp and focused on this medium-bodied wine, moderate acidity, some pleasant, light toastiness and creaminess. Rich texture, moderate depth, with yellow apple fruit topped in almond, graham cracker, honeycomb. Quite focused, food-friendly, a solid value sparkler that outperforms a lot of other sin this price range. Mauzac and Chardonnay. (88 points)

2017 Clos Fantine Faugères – France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Faugères
SRP : $25
Lovely spice and pepper on the nose with meaty, leathery, paprika-laced tones, over top of red and black cherries and currants. The acidity is really refreshing on the palate, with dusty tannins, medium-bodied, with juicy black cherries and plums. Complex notes of pepper, beef drippings, campfire, with violets and clove. There’s a stony and mineral presence as well. Great now, but decant it or cellar it for a few years. Aged 18 months in concrete. (89 points)

2018 Domaine de la Mordorée Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée de la Reine des Bois – France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

SRP: $112
Medium purple color. A dark core of black cherries and roasted figs on the nose, with smoky, minty, charcoal, anise tones, grilled meats. Full-bodied, chewy tannins, medium/low acidity but enough to keep it together. Juicy black cherries and roasted plums, along with cocoa, menthol, dark chocolate, pepper, lamb hide – a lot going on here. Red and black licorice flavors, too. This is concentrated and young, one for the cellar for sure, but this opens up nicely, especially on day two. Should be great in six or seven years. Grenache with Mourvedre, Syrah and Vaccarese, aged 10 months in stainless steel and 20% oak. (93 points)

2018 Weingut Josef Leitz Rosé Pinot Noir Trocken – Germany, Rheingau
SRP: $17
Beautiful salmon color. Aromas of red apple peel and wild raspberry, fresh and floral with honey pot tones. Pure and vibrant on the palate, with a salty, mineral, talc-laden feel. Crisp and cool with raspberry, white cherries, lots of honey and floral complexities. Absolutely delicious, springy, versatile rose. 6.8 g/l residual sugar. (88 points)

2015 Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese – Germany, Nahe
SRP: $50
Medium yellow color. Beautiful aromas of rushing mountain streams, chalk, sea shells, over banana, lime and white peach, tones of white flowers and green herbs. Plump fruit on the palate with white peach, papaya, drizzled with lime, met with racy acidity and balanced sugar – pristine and focused feel. Lemon drops and white peach topped in shells, minerals, ginger, peanut shell and white flowers. Crystalline in its focus, delightful and refined. Aging well with many, many years ahead. (95 points)

2020 Giunta Malbec Nouveau – New Zealand, North Island, Hawke’s Bay
SRP: $19
Deep purple color. Juicy and fresh on the nose, very Beaujolais-esque, with cherries and red plums, along with some cola, violets, floral potpourri. Fresh and delightful feel on the palate, with light tannins and crisp acidity, gushing with cherries and wild raspberries. Floral and perfumed with some slight clay, loam and tobacco tones for complexity. This has a good amount of balance, freshness and mouthfeel – a fresh, fun, semi-carbonic Malbec that should be a big hit with a lot of different palates. (88 points)

2016 Decibel Pinot Noir Single Vineyard – New Zealand, North Island, Wairarapa, Martinborough
SRP: $35
Light ruby color. Lovely spice tones life the aromas, with black pepper, red pepper flakes, beef jerky, over top of tangy raspberries and wild cherries. Zippy on the palate, pleasantly dusty-light tannins, and the fruit is refreshing and tangy (raspberries, spiced cranberry sauce, black cherries). Notes of black pepper and smoked meats, pepperoni, rose petals, I really like these elements and the racy, vibrant feel, here. A Pinot for those tired of baked fruits and high alcohol. Aged 10 months in 10% new French oak. (90 points)

2019 Dow Douro Vale do Bomfim – Portugal, Douro
SRP: $13
Medium purple color. Smells of plums and blackberries, deep and ripe, with smoky earth, pencil lead, violets and coffee grounds. Medium/full-bodied with a pleasantly chewy texture and medium acidity. Chunks of plums and juicy blackberries, laced with cocoa, cedar, iron and earth. Straightforward but balanced, ripe but nuanced. A blend of Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional and others. Great introduction to Douro dry reds at a very attractive price point. (87 points)

N.V. Graham Porto 10-Year-Old Tawny – Portugal, Douro, Porto
SRP: $39
Deep tawny color. Pretty, expressive nose of dates, figs, caramel and toasted nuts, that classic warm, inviting aromatic display. On the palate this is full but shows moderating acidity, and chunks of glazed pear, dried pineapple, baked apples. Notes of cinnamon crumb cake, candied pecans and some salted almond add complexity. This is warm, inviting, delicious, and a great introduction to Tawny ports, but enough complexity to keep any tawny-lover intrigued. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Oregon's Troon Continues to Impress

I’ve had the pleasure of following Oregon’s Troon Vineyard since 2017, when I first tasted their wines. Since then, the hits just keep coming.

Troon is a biodynamic producer from Oregon’s Applegate Valley, an area in the south of the state that boast diverse geology, warm days, cool nights, and some exciting wineries. Troon, in my opinion, of course, has been consistently slinging out focused, unique wines from a large mix of grape varieties. Over the years, they’ve experimented with different styles, blends, adding things like Pet-Nat and Piquette to the mix, but also focusing on deep, juicy reds made from grapes like Tannat.

I recently tasted four of their releases from 2020, and I’m excited to share them. These wines sport new labels this year, tastefully designed and incorporating images of their biodynamic preparations. (I only point this out because, well, like record album artwork, I think labels matter — and this aesthetic is really working.)

Their Kubli Bench line is composed of really interesting blends, two of which are featured in this week’s report. There’s a delicious Vermentino (definitely a specialty of the winery) and a new, Beaujolais-inspired Grenache that is perfect for warmer weather.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2020 Troon Vineyard Vermentino – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Light yellow color. Such a fresh, inviting, floral, airy wine, like a spring field of all sorts of flowers, with white tea over top of generous peach and zesty lime. Punchy texture, vibrant acidity, this is a zesty and focused wine with yellow plums, white peach and cantaloupe fruit, drizzled with lime. The honey, clean laundry and floral perfume tones add complexity. Texturally, the depth of this wine is fantastic, too. Fermented in old French oak, aged on the lees for five months. (91 points)

2020 Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench Rosé – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Pale, pale pink color. So fresh and bright on the nose, like a spring field of buttercups, dandelion and clover over top of McIntosh apple, white cherry and peach skin, with some chalk and basil tones, too. Gorgeous texture on the palate, has nice richness but is really zesty and focused at the same time. Peaches, white cherries and honeydew melon fruit blend with perfume, chalky, crusty sea salt tones. Notes of clover, honey, minerals and shells add all sorts of complexity. Exciting, deep but also gluggable as can be. Really well done blend of Primitivo and Tinta Roriz. Fermented in old French oak, 11.7% alcohol. (92 points)

2020 Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench Amber – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $35
Gorgeous honey, light orange color. Bright aromas that just pop: limes, lemon and kumquat, followed up by clover, candied lemon, sea salt, this is just a spritzy, fun-smelling wine. Medium-bodied with bright acidity, and the texture is really fascinating, waxy but never heavy, and the balance is lovely. Chunks of lemon, pineapple and green melon fruit bounce off these flinty, mineral, chalky elements, and there’s some white tea and hints of tobacco as well. Just a lot to unpack. Don’t worry, this is not a feral orange wine, but a pretty, focused and fresh blend of Riesling, Vermentino and Viognier that spends three weeks on the skins. Well, done, Troon! (92 points)

2020 Troon Vineyard Grenache Glou-Glou Cowhorn Vineyard – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Bright purple color. Juicy and inviting on the nose with strawberries and fresh plums, roses, red licorice – just a ton of fun to sniff. Zesty acidity and light tannins frame the wine nicely, and the raspberry and strawberry fruit is bright and delicious. Notes of rose petals, wildflowers, and mild spicy tones add some complexity, too. Stainless steel, carbonic maceration, this is crushable but complex, easy-drinking but sporting impressive depth as well. This is Troon’s first take on this wine, and I look forward to what they’re going to do with it in the future. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Wine Reviews: Italian Grab Bag

I’m back this week with a wide-ranging mix of Italian wines. Aside from a few Piedmont wines, most of the wines in this week’s report hail from Tuscany. All these Tuscan samples are red, and they show the diversity in styles, prices and wines from this heralded region. From bargain-priced bottles for pizza and patios, to a high-end Merlot that could be a great Right Bank ringer in a blind tasting, there’s hopefully something for everyone in here.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2019 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy Moscato d'Asti “La Serra” - Italy, Piedmont, Asti, Moscato d'Asti
SRP: $17
Light yellow color. A really floral nose with white flowers, perfume, along with peaches, lemon and kiwi fruit, with some sea salt tones. Juicy texture with medium/low acidity and ripe flavors of white peaches, melon and pear butter. Notes of honey, white flowers and some chalk dust add complexity. Fun, accessible stuff but has significant complexity as well. (88 points)

2017 Vietti Langhe Nebbiolo “Perbacco” - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC

SRP: $28
Medium ruby color. Aromas of ripe red and black cherries, cranberry jam, along with smoky earth, rhubarb, mushrooms and rose petals. Forward and fresh with high acidity and dusty tannins. A crisp appeal with red currants and cherries, laced with smoky, minty, peppery, pickling spice tones. Floral, perfume and vibrant, gets very expressive with air. Accessible but will improve with a few years as well. A whole lot of Nebbiolo goodness for the price. (90 points)

2019 Cultusboni Chianti “Cetamura” - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti
SRP: $11
Medium ruby color. Ripe, fresh nose of friendly cherries and plums, along with rose petals and red licorice. Velvety tannins, fresh acidity, a zippy and fun approach to this medium-bodied, lighter-style wine. Juicy red cherries and plums play well off of floral and earth tones, hints of black tea and mint. All Sangiovese aged in stainless steel. The quality for the price on this wine is really nice. (87 points)

2019 Cultusboni Chianti “Colmaia” - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti
SRP: $13
Bright ruby color. An interesting nose of spicy herbs and ripe cherries and raspberries, with some red licorice and violet tones. Velvety and inviting, bright acid, some nice structure from the tannins. Tastes authentic and lively, with black cherries and plums. Notes of violets, cola, black tea and green herbs add some complexity. Delicious, food-friendly, versatile stuff. Stainless steel Sangiovese. (88 points)

2018 Cultusboni Chianti Classico “RS” - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
SRP: $16
Deep ruby color. Lovely nose of smoked meats, paprika, rose petals, chestnut, over top of tangy red currants. The acidity is bright and crisp, with dusty, light tannins. Tart cranberry and spicy currants mix with notes of grilled meat, leather, black olives, earth and clay tones. Vibrant, spicy, approachable, this has a whole lot of character for a wine at this price point. Sangiovese aged in oak. (90 points)

2019 Colline San Biagio “Balè” Rosato - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
SRP: $40
Medium salmon color. Bright and zippy on the nose with wild cherries and lemon zest, over top of cucumber slices, mint and chives. Chunks of orange and pineapple and tangy raspberries on the nose, along with elements of cucumber water, white pepper, some rose tea. Salty, chalky notes underneath, too. Fun, versatile rose. 85% Merlot, 15% Sangiovese. (88 points)

2018 Colline San Biagio “Vigna Toia” - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
SRP: $40
Medium ruby color. Vibrant red cherries and plums on the nose, with a complex mix of pepper, tar, tobacco, dried violet petals. Full-bodied and ripe on the palate but shows some vibrancy as well. Dusty tannins meet vibrant acidity. The crunchy plums and cherry fruit is lively but deep, laced with complex graphite and stony minerals, some gravelly road, really cool earth tones that are hard to describe but delicious. Peppery, violets and clove as well. Bold, structured, but complex and a screaming value. Sangiovese with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, aged in a mix of stainless steel and French oak. (88 points)

2017 Colline San Biagio “Donna Mingarda” - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
SRP: $60
An inviting nose of warm, mulled cherries and raspberries, with plenty of herbal and spicy tones, like tomato leaf, rose petals, cumin, white pepper – really attractive. Full-bodied with well-built but velvety tannins, showing nice grip but not harsh, moderating acidity. Tart black and red cherries, roasted figs, mixed well with complexities of chewing tobacco, rhubarb, white pepper. Really finishes well with smooth, earthy, floral tones. Needs air but this is lovely. All Sangiovese, aged 12 months in old second- and third-year French oak. (90 points)

2015 Colline San Biagio Carmignano “Sancti Blasii” - Italy, Tuscany, Carmignano
SRP: $80
Deep ruby color. Enticing aromas of smoky, meaty, pepperoni elements, with roses, violets, charcoal, over top of deep plums and tangy red currants. On the palate, this is full and suave with velvety tannins and fresh acidity. Tart currants and black cherries, deep but really tangy fruit, and the balance and freshness are lovely. Complexities of tobacco, black pepper, violets, earth. Deep, exciting, needs a long time to show its best, but it’s integrated well already. Decant or age this for five more years. Sangiovese with 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot aged 15 months in second-year French oak. (91 points)

2015 Colline San Biagio Carmignano “Quattordicisei” - Italy, Tuscany, Carmignano
SRP: $160
Oh, wow, this smells amazing. Evokes Bordeaux, but it is its own thing entirely. Inviting deep but vibrant red fruits, so much complexity in terms of warm clay, tobacco leaf, black pepper, rose petals, some red pepper and lavender – a lot going on. Full-bodied but so, so smooth. The balance is impeccable with dusty tannins and vibrant, crunchy acidity. Mouthwatering cherry and red currant fruit meets complexities of sandy soil, pencil shavings, mint chewing tobacco, violets. Refined already but a lot time ahead for this beautiful wine. Merlot aged in new French oak for 18 months. (93 points)

2018 Fattoria Selvapiana Chianti Rùfina - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Rùfina
SRP $19
Medium ruby color. Nose shows cherries, red plums and pomegranate, along with tobacco leaf, leather, bay leaf, and some sage and violets. Impressive structure but the tannins have rounded edges and there’s nicely balanced acidity. Tangy plum and cherry fruit mixes well with elements of tobacco, loam, violets, with notes of cocoa and pencil shavings. Opens nicely with air and boasts quite a bit of complexity and balance for a sub-$20 wine. (89 points)

2018 Casanova di Neri Rosso di Montalcino - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Rosso di Montalcino
SRP: $23
Aromas of spicy pepper, smoky earth, rose petals and cedar, over top of strawberry and plum fruit. Medium/full-bodied with dusty tannins and bright acidity. The plum and currant fruit blends with an interesting mix of tobacco, sage, pepperoni, anise and dark chocolate. It has this mineral and incense stick element, too – interesting and inviting. A fun, pizza-friendly wine but shows complexity as well. A Sangiovese, Cabernet and Petit Verdot blend that will be fun to drink over the next few years. (89 points)

2018 Aia Vecchia Toscana “Lagone” - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
SRP: $17
A spicy, fresh nose with tart currants, tobacco, leather and mesquite tones. Vibrant acidity, has an accessible, zesty feel with medium-dusty tannins. Black cherries, plums, tangy, fresh fruit, mixed with fun notes of graphite, loamy earth, tobacco, mint, coffee grounds. Some flinty, mineral tones. This has a lot of freshness and complexity for the price. 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc. (88 points)

2016 Villa Patrizia Montecucco Sangiovese “Istrico” - Italy, Tuscany, Montecucco
SRP: $15
Aromas of currants and cherries, mixed with cinnamon, tobacco, clove and violets. Structured surprisingly well with moderate acidity and tart black cherry and red currant fruit. Delightfully spicy with tones of clove tobacco, green herbs, pine resin and some coffee tones, too. Integrated and balanced but going well and can continue to age. (87 points)

2015 Tenuta L'Impostino Montecucco Riserva “Viandante” Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Montecucco
SRP: $22
Medium purple color. A nice mix on the nose of rose petals, spicy pepper and oregano, with vibrant woodsy tones over bright red fruits. Vibrant acidity and refined tannins, structured and balanced well with tart red currant, raspberries and cherries. Notes of earth, tobacco pipe, gravel, beef broth and spiced tea add complexity, while nuances of coffee and dark chocolate round out the silky finish. Aging well with life ahead. (89 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Raptor Ridge offers diverse, exciting Oregon portfolio

Raptor Ridge Winery has been building up a reputation for classic Oregon wines for more than a quarter century now. Founder and winegrower Scott Shull has been vinifying Oregon grapes since 1989, and in 1995, he founded Raptor Ridge as a garage winery. His wife Annie Shull is the winery’s chief operations officer, and together, this power couple went on to prepare their own vineyard in 2000, and open their own tasting room in 2010.

I’ve tasted a few of their wines over the years, and remember being impressed with their liveliness, depth and value. And, as a bird nerd and big-time raptor dork, I’ll confess, I was always attracted to how they incorporate local raptors (like Cooper’s Hawks and Peregrine Falcons) into their whole aesthetic. And I also respect their up-front stance on some of the States’ social woes, and their commitment to do what they can to diversify the wine industry.

But it's all about the juice, and Raptor Ridge delivers. They source grapes from their estate Tuscowallame Vineyard, located in the Chehalem Mountains AVA. The Shulls also obtain grapes from a range of different Willamette Valley vineyards, up to about a dozen, depending on the vintage. If you’re looking to try a few different wines without spending a ton of money, Raptor Ridge offers some pretty cool “$99 AVA Series” three-packs on their website.

I recently received a few Raptor Ridge wines to review, which represent a good cross-section of their portfolio. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2016 Raptor Ridge Pinot Noir Brut Rosé - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
SRP: $50
McIntosh apple-colored. Bright and clean on the nose with strawberry, red apple peel, sour cherries, with rose petals and lilies. On the palate, this has a crisp, focused, zippy appeal, with a leaner, chalkier vibe. 3 g/l dosage, aged four years before disgorgement. All Pinot Noir from Harbinger and Tuscowallame Estate. (89 points)

2019 Raptor Ridge Grüner Veltliner Tuscowallame Estate - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Chehalem Mountains
SRP: $30
Light yellow. Bright, salty, floral and perfumed on the nose, over top of green apples and limes, with some celery seed and mint. On the palate, this is brisk, bright, steely and perfumed, with a flinty, chalky, salty appeal. Lemons and green apple fruit blend well with fresh, spicy tones of honeysuckle and lemon verbena. Beautifully zippy, salad- and summer-friendly. All stainless steel, from vines planted in 2006. (89 points)

2018 Raptor Ridge Auxerrois Zenith Vineyard - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Eola - Amity Hills
SRP: $30
Light yellow color. The nose pops with lemon, lime and quince, along with notes of hay, sea salt and cucumber slices, chalk dust – really inviting and fresh. Medium/light bodied but nice depth of texture here, too, vibrant, lip-smacking acidity. Lemons, limes and kiwi fruit, woven together with notes of sea salt, floral perfume, oyster shell tones. Zesty but complex, lovely texture, nuanced. Definitely a fun wine to check out. Fermented in neutral oak, with some stainless steel-fermented wine, too. (90 points)

2018 Raptor Ridge Chardonnay Gran Moraine Vineyard - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton
SRP: $50
Medium yellow color. Lovely mix of yellow apples and lemon curd, with sea salt, chalk dust, honey and ginger complexities, too. The palate is nervy and vibrant but the texture is creamy and generous, too. Yellow apples, lemon zest and orange peel fruit. Complex elements of chalk, flint, honey, ginger, crushed shells, all sorts of flower petals. Pure, expressive, focused, beautiful Chardonnay. This Gran Moraine Vineyard is a really special site for Chardonnay. Aged 10 months in French oak. (92 points)

2016 Raptor Ridge Tempranillo Folin Vineyard - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Rogue Valley
SRP: $40
Beautiful deep ruby color. Delightful nose of strawberry, black cherry, along with smoky beef jerky, pepper and violets. Medium-bodied with a velvety, chewy, but fresh feel. Balanced, structured, approachable, with deep cherries and plum fruit. Complex notes of black pepper, beef jerky and black tea. Spicy but juicy and fresh, a delightful and expressive interpretation of this grape. Aged 23 months in French oak. (91 points)

2018 Raptor Ridge Pinot Noir Estate 777 Clone Tuscowallame - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Chehalem Mountains
SRP: $50
Dark ruby color. The nose shows an inviting mix of wild cherry and raspberry, with rose petals, rhubarb and some earthy, clay tones. Vibrant acidity on the palate, this is bright and crisp, with velvety tannins. Tangy cherries and wild raspberry mix nicely with mulling spices, bay leaf, herbal tea and roasted chestnut. There’s a pleasantly dusty, earthy, mushroomy and bacon mix that lingers long on the finish. Refined already, but this should really open up over the next two to five years. Aged nine months in about ¼ new French oak. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.