Saturday, November 20, 2021

Oregon's Troon Just Keeps on Rockin'

Longtime readers may have seen me praise Oregon’s Troon Vineyard in the past. Well, here I am again to do it again.

I can’t help it – Troon just keeps putting out exciting wines. From old classics to an array of newer blends and styles in recent years, their across-the-board consistency has been pretty amazing. Based in the Applegate Valley of southern Oregon, Troon puts out are biodynamic wines with native yeasts and a fresh, spicy but focused appeal.

If your palate tends more toward the leaner side of the Syrah spectrum, and you’re happy with roasted, savory, spicy flavors, this trio of Troon Syrahs is definitely worth checking out. “Syrah may be the ideal variety for our site,” says winegrower Craig Camp. After tasting a lot of these wines over the years, it’s a convincing argument. These three wines offer a good view of their approach to this grape overall, and it was a joy tasting them together and parsing through the nuances. All three of them were aged 20 months in mature French oak.

The Druid’s Fluid wines are based on the traditional blends of the Cotes du Rhone, and deliver just what you’d hope for from their French counterparts: delicious fruit, some spicy accents, and lots of value. The Cotes du Kubli wines are blends from Troon’s Cowhorn Vineyard, and are called such because they’re sourced from the hills around the Kubli Bench, a plateau above the Applegate River. They’re consistently reliable and delicious expressions of Troon’s style.

And, while label aesthetics doesn’t affect what’s in the bottle, it still matters. And Troon has been revamping their design in different ways lately, and I think it’s paying off. From the flowy symbol design of the Druid’s Fluid to the detailed guidebook style drawings of their biodynamic preparations, the bottles really draw my attention. And then the juice itself overdelivers.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted, except for the three Syrahs, which I tasted single-blind.

2020 Troon Vineyard Druid’s Fluid WhiteUSA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Light yellow color. The nose sports this salty, floral, citrus-popping appeal with lemon, orange, peach, with some chalky, flinty tones. The palate has this crisp, nervy, salty vibe, which works well with the lemon, orange peel and kiwi fruit. The floral and herbal complexity is really something, with this minty, celery seed, saline, honeysuckle tones and this pervasive sense of mountain stream freshness and mineral nerviness. So fun, so good. (90 points)

2020 Troon Vineyard Druid’s Fluid RedUSA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Deep ruby color. Gamay-esque goodness on the nose, so floral and accessible, gushing with strawberries and cherries, along with rose petals, potting soil, clay and potpourri tones. Zesty and brisk acidity, with dusty tannins and a bright feel. Juicy strawberries, cherries and raspberries, laced with deep violets, sage, some pepper and light roast coffee. This wine is all about the mouthfeel and vibe, which is fresh, inviting and delightful. (90 points)

2020 Troon Vineyard Côtes du Kubli BlancUSA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Rich yellow color. The nose shows deep, fascinating scents of orange marmalade, lemon curd, with notes of whipped honey, nougat and sea salt. Deep texture with gorgeous honeyed mouthfeel and moderate acidity. Orange and lemon peel, yellow apple and pineapple fruit, juicy but fresh and focused. Notes of seashells, raw almond, hay, honey. A rich wine but crystal clear and so fresh. Seems like a few years of age could do some good. 55% Roussanne, 25% Marsanne, 20% Viognier, only 12.6% alcohol. (92 points)

2019 Troon Vineyard Cotes du Kubli RougeUSA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $45
Vibrant purple color. Wow, so fresh on the nose with this chilled raspberry, cherry and strawberry fruit, along with these airy tones of flowers and crushed chalk, and spicier tones of pepper and mulling spices. Zesty and dusty on the palate with crisp acidity and a focused appeal. The red cherries, cranberry and raspberry fruit is lively and crisp, and mixed well with black pepper, violets, and complex leather and beefy tones. Wow this is gorgeous stuff. Unique, airy, lifted, yet deep and complex. 84% Syrah, 16% Grenache, 12.7% alcohol. (93 points)

2019 Troon Vineyard Syrah EstateUSA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $35
Deep ruby color. Ooh, so inviting on the nose with raspberries, strawberries and blueberries, mixed with violets, and a lot of spice (paprika, pepper, curry powder, bay leaf – so good). Crisp acidity, nicely structured with medium tannins and a deep but bright fruit profile (blueberry, strawberry and raspberry). The wine has this gorgeous floral, earthy, spicy appeal, with pepper, curry powder, a potpourri of dried wildflowers and clove. Pretty and alive with a mineral-laden finish. Could use at least a few years to show it’s best, but so delightful young, too. (91 points)

2019 Troon Vineyard Syrah SiskiyouUSA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $50
Beautiful ruby color. Freshness rules the aromas, with juicy cherries and strawberry tones, along with fascinating mix of pepper, pine tar, charcoal, violets and clove. On the palate, this shows crisp acidity and tannins that show a fine dusty grip. Delicious cherries and raspberries are mixed really well with elements of pepper, sage, warm clay, deep earth. Nuances of clove, tobacco and mineral round out the finish. It maintains this gravelly depth throughout – really delightful. From a cooler vineyard, named for the surrounding Siskiyou Mountains. (93 points IJB)

2019 Troon Vineyard Syrah Cowhorn VineyardUSA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $50
Deep ruby color. On the nose, a nice kick of black pepper and roasted red pepper over top of the bright plum and juicy cherry fruit. Nice concentration on the palate with a moderate tannic backbone and bright acidity, which sets the stage for beautiful dark cherry and plum fruit. The savory depth is really something, with a host of pepper, braised meats, pepperoni, gravelly and loamy earth. An age-worthy wine but also so inviting and fresh, there’s a lot going on here. Fruit sourced from a cooler site, this is a fascinating Syrah that will age wonderfully for who knows how long. (93 points)

Wednesday, November 17, 2021

Fascinating Rioja Wines from Ramon Bilbao

There are plenty of heralded wine regions I have yet to visit, far more than I will likely see in my lifetime. But Rioja is high on that list. One day I hope to visit the cellars of Lopez de Heredia and explore the larger region, but until then, wine offers that ability to travel through the senses.

For years, Rioja wines have consistently delivered for me, and I have so many fond memories of serving these wines to friends and family at gatherings, especially around the holidays and colder months. A few years back, I befriended a reddish-colored, malnourished alley cat, and helped her out over a long winter with a steady diet of canned tuna and chicken scraps. I named her Rioja.

Anyway, I recently tasted through some interesting wines from Rioja’s Bodegas Ramón Bilbao that are worth highlighting. The bodega’s namesake opened the winery in 1924. He passed away just five years later, leaving the bodega to his son Enrique. The company has grown and expanded over the decades, especially lately, and has spread out to make wines in Rueda and Rias Baixas. In Rioja today, they have more than 200 hectares of vineyards, and source grapes from some 900 more. Featured today is a solid lineup, from entry-level up to the flagship Mirto, whose first vintage was 1999. Across the board, these wines are very well done and worth checking out if you, like me, enjoy Rioja.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2020 Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Rías BaixasSpain, Galicia, Rías Baixas
SRP: $19
Medium yellow color. Aromas show zesty lemon and crunchy green apples, with white flowers and chalk and a nice, deeper honeyed element. Zippy and crisp on the palate, this shows yellow apples, kiwi and lemons, along with sea salt, lemon verbena, white tea and chalky tones. A nice creamy factor gives it some depth. Fun, accessible Albarino. All stainless steel, this spends six months on the lees. (88 points)

2020 Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Rioja RosadoSpain, Rioja
SRP: $18
Medium copper color. So fresh on the nose with lemons and white peach mixed with nettle, white pepper, dandelion greens and talc. The palate is zippy and crisp with nice textural depth. Flavors of white cherries and red apple peel mix well with notes of dandelion, chalk, talc, mint and minerals. There’s a bright, nervy, shellfish-friendly appeal but some nice complexity and depth, too. A lot going on. 85% Garnacha, 15% Viura. (88 points)

2017 Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Rioja CrianzaSpain, Rioja
SRP: $19
Vibrant ruby color. The nose shows spicy pepper and paprika, leathery, sage tones over top of juicy raspberry and red currant fruit. The palate shows tangy red and black cherries and currants on a frame of light tannins, livened by the acidity. Notes of red pepper flakes, leather, pepper and earth add complexity. It’s fun and fresh, but offers a good amount of depth, and a ton of food-friendly fun. 100% Tempranillo aged 14 months in American oak. (88 points)

2017 Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Rioja Edición LimitadaSpain, Rioja
SRP: $27
Light purple color. The nose exudes black cherries and red currants, along with scorched earth, leather, all sorts of incense sticks, with tones of cocoa and coffee. Nice grip on the palate, solid tannins meet well with moderate acidity, with a nice core of tart, dark currants and cherries. All sorts of fallen leaves, earth, soy, incense and black licorice elemnts add complexity. Needs air and some time to unpack the intricate savory tones, but this is very well done for the price. All Tempranillo aged 15 months in new French oak. (90 points)

2015 Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Rioja ReservaSpain, Rioja
SRP: $27
Bright purple color. The nose shows deep cherries, plums and blackberries, with violets, warm clay and loamy earth, with sweet cocoa and sage tones – very pretty. Bright acidity gives this wine a lot of life, from start to finish, with nice tannic grip. Tangy cherry and plum fruit blends with complexities of cedar, sandalwood, clove, incense sticks and cigar box. Floral and earthy tones come out with air; this needs two to five years, then give it air and a nice roasted meat meal. Aged 20 months in American oak. (90 points)

2015 Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Rioja MirtoSpain, Rioja
SRP: $45
Bright purple color. Tangy cherries and dark plums on the nose, inviting yet deep and intricate with notes of rosemary, paprika, mint and bay leaf. There’s a deep core of red and black currant fruit, nice strong grip but no harsh edges, moderating acidity – everything is lined up so nicely. The complexity is really nice, with these tar, spiced tea, leather, clove and iron tones, but air opens up all sorts of stuff. Oaky tones aren’t overdone, and this is balanced, age-worthy and very, very pretty. Impressive stuff that Rioja lovers should seek out. (93 points)

2012 Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Rioja Gran ReservaSpain, Rioja
SRP: $39
Light purple color. The nose sports red cherries and some wild blackberry, with lovely tones of tilled soil, leather, tar, coffee and cedar. Really well-balanced on the palate with tangy acidity and suave but structured tannins. A juicy but tart mix of black cherries, laced with complex notes of leather, chewing tobacco, coffee grounds and cedar. Notes of bay leaf and mushroom broth come out with time. Vibrant and nuanced, fresh, refined already but needs a few years to show its best. 90% Tempranillo, the rest is Mazuelo and Graciano, aged 30 months in American oak. (91 points)

Wednesday, November 10, 2021

California Pinot Noir and Chardonnay for Autumn

In autumn, California pinot noir just hits the spot for me. Especially when the weather finally gets proper cool out, and I’m cooking dishes like cassoulet and braised meats again. It all makes sense with a fresh, delicious, savory pinot.

For California pinot fans, Sanford needs an introduction like metalheads need a primer on Black Sabbath. C’mon, we’re talking about legends, here — the history, the Santa Rita Hills vineyards that yield some classic wine. And 2019 marks the first full vintage with winemaker Trey Fletcher at the helm. After crafting wines with Littorai and Bien Nacido Vineyards, Sanford’s pinot noir is in very good hands for the future.

Fort Ross Winery delivers two different takes on Sonoma Coast pinot. The freshness in these is delightful, and if you’re a fan of that crisp red fruit and spice-toned thing like me, these are worth checking out. And Sonoma-Cutrer offers up a delicious 2019 pinot, too.

Oh, and there’s some corresponding chardonnays in this report because, well, they always go together.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

Pinot Noir

2020 Sanford Pinot Noir RoséUSA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
SRP: $20
Pale copper color. The nose shows a mix of sea salt, rose petals, and white pepper with red apple, wild strawberry and raspberry – just a delightful aromatic display. The palate is zippy and fresh, a crisp and nervy feel, with bright tones of red apples and tart raspberries. There’s this flinty, salty, mineral vibe that tastes authentic and exciting, and there’s some complex floral and spice tones that linger on the finish. Really impressive stuff, a rose to sip over two days, or age, too – it has that complexity that deserves it. Crazy value. (91 points)

2019 Sanford Pinot NoirUSA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
SRP: $45
Vibrant ruby color. Fresh strawberries, cherries and raspberries on the nose, laced with notes of clay, rose petals, some sage, pepper and tobacco – lovely stuff. Crisp acidity greets the palate, with dusty tannins, a vibrant airy appeal, with juicy cherry and strawberry fruit. The complex tones of rose petals, tea and earth mix well with this minerality on the finish. Just an elegant and complex Pinot that shows Sanford continuing their stride. This should age beautifully for who \-knows-how-long, and also shows serious value A blend from Sanford & Benedict and La Rinconada Vineyards, aged 11 months in 25% new oak, 13.5% alcohol. (93 points)

2019 Sonoma-Cutrer Pinot NoirUSA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $35
Medium ruby color. The nose shows juicy, deep plums and black cherries with a mix of savory tones and black pepper, mesquite-like goodness. On the palate, this medium-bodied wine shows smooth tannins and moderate acidity, with saucier fruit (raspberries and black cherries), but it still shows a tangy edge. Notes of tar, pepper, tobacco mix with nuanced tones of cola and rhubarb. Classic, fun, delicious stuff that shows complexity as well – deserves some air or some time. Tank-fermented and aged 11 months in 1/3 new French oak. (90 points)

2019 Fort Ross Winery Pinot Noir Sea SlopesUSA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $35
Juicy ruby color. Smells of fresh cherries, strawberries and cranberries, along with smooth, subtle vibes of rose petals and earth. Plush and smooth on the palate with moderate acidity and deep strawberry and cherry fruit, which is all nicely balanced. The savory elements of pepper, basil and rhubarb blend well with cola and light coffee. Accessible and moderately-priced but this wine backs it up with depth and complexity. Aged 18 months 10% new French oak, 13.5% alcohol. (90 points)

2018 Fort Ross Winery Pinot Noir Fort Ross VineyardUSA, California, Sonoma County, Fort Ross – Seaview
SRP: $52
Dark ruby color. Suave but fresh on the nose with black cherries, raspberries, laced with coffee, bay leaf, loamy earth and clay – really inviting stuff. Smooth tannins and fresh acid on a medium-bodied frame sets a good stage for the chilled cherry fruit. Complex notes of rhubarb, bay leaf, pepper, rose potpourri, a lot of air brings out all sorts of nuance. This will benefit from a few years in the cellar and accompany many a dish very well. Aged 10 months in 30% new French oak. (91 points)

Chardonnay

2019 Sanford ChardonnayUSA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
SRP: $40
Light yellow color. Lively aromas with lemon and yellow apples, all sorts of nuances of chalk, crushed shells, salted nuts, wildflowers and honey. On the palate, this is balanced wonderfully, with a frame of bright acidity, a creamy texture, and a mix of lemon, honeydew melon and yellow apple fruit. There’s a chalky, salty, mineral-infused vibe that is lovely, and a host of nougaty, honeyed, biscuity depth, and the balance is wonderful. A brisk, flinty yet creamy finish. A delightfully complex and thought-provoking Santa Rita Chardonnay Hills. A blend of fruit from Sanford & Benedict and La Rinconada Vineyards, aged 11 months in 16% new oak, 13.5% alcohol. (93 points)

2019 Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay The CutrerUSA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $35
Light yellow color. Aromas of lemon bars and yellow apples, with shaved ginger, hay, almond and sea salt. Creamy texture but vibrant acidity with crunchy green and yellow apples and lemon curd fruit. Notes of almond, hay, ginger and peanut shell mix well with some flinty, mineral tones. A harmonious, fresh, well-balanced Sonoma Chardonnay. All maloactic fermentation, aged 13 months in 25% new oak. (90 points)

2019 Fort Ross Winery Chardonnay Sea SlopesUSA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $30
Rich yellow color. The nose sports richer tones of honey and almond with brighter tones of white flowers over yellow apple and kiwi fruit. Creamy yet focused on the palate with yellow apple, kiwi and lemon curd fruit. Notes of graham cracker and walnut, dried pineapple, but also salty, floral brightness, too. Rides a nice line and offers all Chardonnay lovers something. Aged 14 months in stainless steel and oak, 5% new. (90 points)

2019 Fort Ross Winery Chardonnay Fort Ross VineyardUSA, California, Sonoma County, Fort Ross – Seaview
SRP: $44
Deep yellow color. Aromas of pear and honey, almond and graham cracker, with chalky, crushed oyster shell elements, too. On the palate, zesty acid frames the wine well, a racy yet creamy mouthfeel with orange peel and yellow apple fruit. Complex notes of chamomile, salted almond, honeycomb, with oyster shell and chalk dust. Pristine, crisp finish, deep yet salty. This should age wonderfully. Aged 11 months in 30% new French oak. (92 points)

Sunday, October 17, 2021

Tilia Wines from Argentina are Still Delivering

The first time I tried wines from Tilia, it was in 2007, just a year after the winery was founded. Back then, I was relatively new to wine appreciation, and methodically tasting wines, region by region, from all of the countries available to me. But value was essential. And I found that these Tilia wines offered deliciousness and balance that outperformed a lot of similarly-priced wines I was tasting from California, Australia or South Africa.

Things have now come full circle, and here I am tasting and reviewing their 2020 offerings. These wines are all $11 suggested retail, and brought in this summer by Winebow. At that price point, some may be skeptical – but the quality in here is serious. Based in Junin, Mendoza, the wines are sourced from around Mendoza made by Gonzalo Llensa.

I’m of the opinion that these wines are solid across the board. I think they offer a lot for those who are newer to wine and eager to try new things, without spending much. They could also be a hit on a by-the-glass list.

The labels are tasteful and sport their sustainability efforts and certification — and I think all of this combines to make them an attractive entry-level brand to a wide audience. After all these years, it’s refreshing to see Tilia still delivering.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2020 Tilia ChardonnayArgentina, Mendoza
SRP: $11
Light yellow color. Juicy nose of yellow plums, lemons, with honey, sea salt and some raw almond. Crisp and zesty on the palate but some nice round texture. Yellow apples and lemon fruit, with honeyed, floral perfume tones. Ripe and fun but it stays so lively throughout. I’m just impressed with the balanced and depth of a Chardonnay at this price point. (87 points)

2020 Tilia TorrontésArgentina, Mendoza
SRP: $11
Medium straw color. A nice peachy nose with kiwi and lychee nectar, and bountiful notes of dandelions and honey. Medium-bodied with vibrant acidity, and a juicy combo of peaches, lychee and papaya. Notes of honey, floral perfume, some cool celery seed, lemongrass and even some flinty, mineral tones. Really fun, summery stuff that shows a good amount of complexity. (87 points)

2020 Tilia MalbecArgentina, Mendoza
SRP: $11
Medium purple color. Aromas of jammy raspberries and red plums, with some coffee, vanilla and rose potpourri tones. On the palate, this is smooth and silky with lightly chewy tannins and medium acidity. Blueberry and raspberry fruit, juicy and suave, blends with cola, clove and some earthy, espresso tones. Fun, fresh, interesting stuff. All Malbec, all stainless steel. (88 points)

2020 Tilia Cabernet SauvignonArgentina, Mendoza
SRP: $11
Light purple color. Smells of ripe red currants, some blueberries, with mocha, tobacco, elements of cedar and vanilla. Smooth and fresh on the palate with an easy-drinking tannic appeal and medium acidity. Straightforward but fun with blueberries and black cherries, with tones of spiced tea, tobacco and mint. Balanced, crowd-pleasing stuff. (86 points)

2020 Tilia MerlotArgentina, Mendoza
SRP: $11
Deep ruby color. Nose sports red currants and red plums with fun tones of rose and violet petals, with coffee and clove. Medium-bodied, with smooth tannins and moderate acidity. Raspberry and red cherry fruit blends well with these roasted red pepper and paprika tones, rose petals. Just fun, fresh, bright feel. Another great value here. (88 points)

2020 Tilia BonardaArgentina, Mendoza
SRP: $11
Bright purple color. The nose boasts blueberries and blackberries with a nice mix of smoky, campfire tones, earthy, charcoal elements, tobacco and cedar. Medium-bodied with smooth tannins and refreshing acidity – everything is right down the middle. Black cherries and blueberry fruit blends well with graphite, tobacco and violets. Drink now with some grilled meat and veg kebabs – impressive. All Bonarda in stainless steel. (87 points)

2020 Tilia Malbec – SyrahArgentina, Mendoza
SRP: $11
Bright purple. A juicy nose with black cherries and blueberries, along with some pepper, smoky earth, violet petals. Fresh and bright on the palate with dusty tannins, an accessible feel with juicy black cherry fruit. Notes of pepper, potting soil, some violet and rose petal potpourri. A crowd-friendly wine that shows a lot of balance and complexity at this price point. (87 points)

Monday, September 6, 2021

Wine Reviews: California New Releases

This week, I have a handful of new wines from all over California worth getting excited about.

I’m a big fan of the dynamic wine scene in Paso Robles, so I was delighted to taste three new-to-me wines and chat about Paso with the winemakers over a Zoom meeting. They focused on the region’s well-known calcareous soils, and each winemaker (from Linne Calodo, Caliza and the aptly-named Calcareous Vineyard) spoke about the importance of these soils in their wines. The three wines I tasted are good examples of how that ancient ocean bed soil can result in some exciting wines.

Some value Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from Nielson in Santa Barbara County also make an appearance, and a cool Chenin Blanc. Lastly, La Pelle’s new offerings continue to show why they are worth watching.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

White wines

2018 Caliza Winery “Sidekick”USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $36
Rich yellow color. Aromas of rich apricots and baked apple, with tones of honey, graham cracker, with notes of flowers, honey and even some fresh chanterelles. The fresh acidity is really nice, surprisingly so, and it balances that classic, creamy texture. Flavors of apricot, baked apples and pineapple, rich fruit but it stays surprisingly fresh with tones of yellow flowers and honey, almond, white tea. Delicious, focused stuff. 90% Roussanne and 10% Viognier, aged in French oak. (90 points)

2020 Aperture Chenin BlancUSA, California, North Coast
SRP: $30
Light yellow color. The nose pops with lemon, quince and yellow flowers, with interesting spicy, herbal, white floral elements. Crisp acidity, punchy texture, a citrus-infused delight with chalky, oceanic, crushed shell tones, with some white tea and minerals. Bright and fun but a lot of complexity, too. From a Clarksburg vineyard, this is aged six months on the lees in used French oak and stainless steel. (90 points)

2019 Nielson ChardonnayUSA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $16
Medium yellow color. Aromas show apricots and lemon drops with lemon verbena, light butter, some bright, sudsy, floral tones. Crisp but flesh on the medium-bodied palate with lemons and peaches, bright but not light on the flavor. Lemon drops and honey mix with some almond and some brighter floral tones. Approachable, fun, yummy, value-driven stuff. Aged eight months in French oak, stainless steel and concrete eggs. (87 points)

2019 La Pelle Sauvignon Blanc
USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $45
Pale straw color. Wow, the nose pops with limes, kiwi and papaya, topped in floral perfume, daisies, lemongrass and sea salt. Pure and vibrant on the palate with a racy, stony presence and deep texture. Lemons, white peach and orange peel, crunchy fruit mixes well with stony, oyster shell and mineral tones, and elements of flowers and honey. This is nervy, vibrant and balanced Sauvignon Blanc, with a salty finish. A whole lot to ponder and enjoy in here, and it will reward patience in the cellar, too. (93 points)

Red Wines

2018 Nielson Pinot NoirUSA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $19
Deep ruby color. Juicy strawberries and red cherries are met with rhubarb, rose petals and some cola. Fleshy, juicy strawberries meet with light tannins and vibrant acidity. Cherry rhubarb pie flavors mix with white pepper, black tea some oregano. Fun and fresh despite the juicy fruit, this has a smooth, accessible feel but shows solid complexity for the price as well. Aged 12 months in French oak. (87 points)

2018 Calcareous Vineyard “Lloyd”USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $65
Vibrant purple color. The nose shows a whole lot of spicy, earthy, savory tones, with mesquite and leather over top of cherries and lively currants, cocoa and anise. Full-bodied but so fresh and lively, it maintains a tanginess that is refreshing throughout. All sorts of plums and currants, the fruit deep but crunchy and mixed with complex tones of grilled herbs, black tea, black pepper, sage and leather. Highly delicious, but has lots of tricks up its sleeve and needs age, too. An estate blend of Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot and Petit Verdot, aged 18 months in 40% new French oak. (92 points)

2018 Linne Calodo “Overthinker”USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Willow Creek District
SRP: $95
Light purple color. Ooh, the nose shows deep cherries and currants with enticing notes of leather, mesquite, violet petals, black pepper and black tea. Full-bodied but moderated well by the acidity, and the tart plums and black cherries are deep but crunchy. Complex iron, meat, graphite and creosote tones add complexity. This really needs time to open up and show its floral, meaty and earthy tones. Give this a decant or a few years, but it’s exquisite. 55% Syrah, 38% Grenache and 7% Mourvedre. (92 points)

2019 La Pelle Cabernet Sauvignon ­- USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $80
Deep purple color. On the nose, it’s exciting the way the roasted red peppers, sage, tobacco and earth tones mix with tart currants and black cherries, with coffee and dark chocolate tones. Structured well with a solid backbone and vibrant acidity to support the tangy black currant fruit. Complex tones of roasted red peppers, savory spices, tobacco and earth, and elements of coffee and clove. There is a ton going on here, and it maintains a fresh, earthy, flinty mystique. This will do wonders in five or six years, but it’s impressive how balanced it is so young, too. Includes 2% Petit Verdot aged 18 months in 50% new French oak. (93 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Friday, August 27, 2021

Wine Reviews: Chile & Argentina

It’s been a while since I’ve delved into some wines from Chile and Argentina, so I’m excited to share some new offerings.

Three reds from Argentina make an appearance in this report, and the Mascota Vineyards Unanime brand show juicy, lively styles that are great for a slight chill on a warm evening.

Most of the wines in this report hail from Chile, and these producers are also touting their sustainability efforts. Koyle is a biodynamic producer that gets 40% of its power supply from solar panels. And Emiliana is one of the largest organic and biodynamic producers in the world. What I love is how some of these producers are able to utilize these methods and produce delicious, interesting wines at super reasonable price points.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2017 Trapiche Cabernet Sauvignon Medalla - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $20
Light purple color. Vibrant but deep nose of black cherries and raspberries with rose petals, clove, cigar shop and sweet cocoa. Medium-bodied, smooth tannins, lively acidity. Tart blueberry meets juicy black cherries, and the fruit is topped in notes of mocha, tobacco, mint, rose petals. Nice earthy and tar tones, too. All Cabernet from estate vineyards, aged 18 months in French oak. (88 points)

2017 Mascota Vineyards Pinot Noir Unánime - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco
SRP: $25
Medium purple color. Smells of bright blueberries and black cherries, tossed with leather, tobacco, notes of iron, graphite and dusty earth. Structured well with round-edged tannins and vibrant acidity. Darker style but still fresh, with tangy black cherry fruit, which plays well of notes of potting soil, charcoal, graphite, leather, clay. A lot of complexity packed in here, and it gets more and more expressive with air. A Pinot Noir with this level of balance and depth at this price point is impressive, and from Argentina, no less. Aged 12 months in French oak. (89 points)

2017 Mascota Vineyards Malbec Unánime - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $25
Deep ruby color. The aromas pop with ripe plums and black cherries, deep fruit with notes of smoky earth, anise, warm fallen leaves, some vanilla, too. Medium-bodied, velvety smooth tannic structure, crisp acidity. A juicy but pleasant feel to the fruit (black cherries and figs), along with fallen leaves, cola, earth and some vanilla. Ripe but nuanced, this has a lot to offer. Aged a year in French oak. (89 points)

2019 Viu Manent Malbec Secreto - Chile, Rapel Valley, Colchagua Valley
SRP: $15
Medium purple color. Ooh, the nose cranks with spice (sage, pepper, grilled steak) along with plums and juicy black cherries. Medium-bodied on the palate, delightful acidity with smooth tannins. Tart currants and chew plums blend well with a host of pepper, charcoal-grilled meat and violet petals. There’s a nice depth of texture with lots of spicy and earthy complexity. I was shocked to see this price point. Includes a “secret” blend of 15% other grapes. (89 points)

2019 Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon Gran Reserva “Serie Riberas” Palo Santo Vineyard - Chile, Rapel Valley, Colchagua Valley, Marchigüe
SRP: $17
Vibrant purple color. Aromas of tart plums and currants, laced with oregano and mint, along with leather, campfire, dark chocolate shavings and some graphite. Full-bodied with nice grip and moderate acidity. Tart plums and rich blackberry fruit blends well with lots of delicious, spicy tones of bell pepper, sage and coffee. Notes of tar, graphite and vanilla add complexity. Rich but savory, nice and lively, this could even age. Really good stuff for the price. Includes some 5% combined Carmenere and Syrah, aged 10 months in 21% new French oak. (89 points)

2019 Viña Tarapacá Gran Reserva Organic Red Blend - Chile, Maipo Valley
SRP: $20
Light purple color. Nose pops with sweet plums and currants, cocoa, tossed with coffee, anise and spicy black tea. Jammy and rich on the palate with medium acidity and smooth tannins. Flavors of plum sauce and currant jam are whipped together with spicy pepper, mint, charcoal and violet petal and earth tones. Fun, accessible, grill-friendly wine that has a ripe appeal but also spicy, floral complexity. 31% Cabernet Franc, 26% Syrah, 22% Carmenere, 11% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 12 months in 20% new French oak. (87 points)

2018 Viña Maquis Cabernet Franc Gran Reserva - Chile, Rapel Valley, Colchagua Valley
SRP: $24
Deep ruby color. Ripe but tangy fruit on the nose (black cherries, plums) along with lots of spicy pepper, paprika, black tea, warm clay, violets – really inviting and complex. Medium-bodied, nice dusty tannic grip, fresh acidity – the balance is lovely. Tart plums and juicy red and black currants, suave and tangy, and this has a delightfully spicy mix of pepper, coffee grounds, tar, violets, roasted red peppers and potting soil. Seriously complex and vivacious, this is a gorgeous Cabernet Franc for an awesome price. Aged one year in French oak. (91 points)

2018 Viñedos Emiliana Coyam - Chile, Rapel Valley, Colchagua Valley
SRP: $35
Deep purple color. The nose shows deep plums and blackberries along with smoky earth, graphite, warm rocks, sweet pipe tobacco and some smoked meat tones. Deep and suave on the palate with nice grip and vibrant acidity – so fresh. Tart currants and black cherry fruit, laced well with earth, iron, minerals, spicy pepper and pepperoni tones. Complex, deep but fresh, this is beautiful and should improve nicely over the next 42% Syrah, 39% Carmenere with Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha, Malbec, Carignan, Tempranillo and Mourvedre. (90 points)

2019 Viña Koyle Carménère Gran Reserva ­ Chile, Rapel Valley, Colchagua Valley
SRP: $17
Deep ruby color. The nose is ripe and spicy with cherries and blackberries, mixed nicely with tar, chewing tobacco, freshly-paved road, and some cool soy and roasted red pepper tones. Crisp acidity frames this wine nicely, a dusty tannic feel, this is fresh and fun with cherries, raspberries and red plums, a tangy and bright approach with the fruit. Notes of black pepper, clove, dried rose petals, black tea and scorched earth adds complexity. Fun but complex and balanced wonderfully, this is a brisket-friendly Carmenere with 10% Tempranillo and 5% Petit Verdot, aged 14 months in French oak. (90 points)

2019 Viña San Pedro Cabernet Sauvignon 1865 Selected Vineyards - Chile, Maipo Valley
SRP: $15
Medium purple color. Lovely nose of black currants and blackberries, with tobacco, violets, warm clay, some vanilla and cedar. Silky tannins on the palate with vibrant acidity and a nicely balanced feel. Tart currants and smoky black cherries are woven together with anise, loamy earth, tobacco, with some dark chocolate shavings and coffee. Accessible and fun, but sports solid complexity for the price point as well. (88 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.