Year-End Selections: International Wines for Difficult Times

As a long year winds down, I hope you have some nice bottles lined up to share with loved ones. With the holidays in full swing, I’m taking a break from sparkling wines and focusing on some wines that offered me a chance to travel. In my mind at least; I’ve been cooped up for a long time. But there are places I want to visit and wine regions I want to dig into, and tasting wine always gets me thinking and planning.

I’ve long been a fan of wines from Argentina, and I recently tasted through several wines that reminded me that there’s a lot more to explore. The value to be found there has always attracted me, but more and more I’m finding wines that show a whole lot more depth and nuance than I expected. Oh, to visit one day!

Chile is another country I have had on my list. Surfing the coast, climbing some mountains, and visiting the wine regions in between, it’s a bucket list trip I plan to take one day. But, in these pandemic times, some delightful reds from Chile offered a peek into a beautiful country.

I also have three wines that could only come from Southwest France. With some many varied appellations and styles, I always enjoy trying to dig into the diversity and history of the wines from this region. With a host of indigenous varieties, plenty of value to find, and a fascinating winemaking culture and history, the three wines in this report are barely scratching the surface.

An inexpensive red from Veneto and an impressive Napa Cab round out this report.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

Argentina

2020 Piattelli Vineyards Torrontés - Argentina, Salta, Cafayate
SRP: $14
Medium straw color. The nose pops with peaches and white flowers, mango and papaya, lots of tropical flowers. The palate shows crisp acidity and moderately creamy texture, but there’s a nervy, salty vibe that helps keep things fresh against the juicy, papaya and peach fruit. Some slate and mineral elements on the finish, with flowers, too. There’s quite a lot going on here, and shows freshness and balance. (89 points)

2018 Mascota Vineyards Malbec Unánime - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $25
A vibrant purple color. Juicy nose of black cherries and red plums tossed with a generous dose of mesquite, violet petals, cocoa, really lush and inviting. Full but suave on the palate with medium acidity and smooth tannins. Flavors of blueberries and plum sauce mix well with a nice, stony, mineral, graphite component. Those smoky, meaty, bacon elements linger onto the finish. Fun and highly delicious but shows nice complexity as well. (89 points)

2014 Mascota Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Magnánime - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $70
This Cabernet sports a deep, dark, inviting nose of currants and blueberries, with complex elements of coffee, dark chocolate, roasted chestnut and herbal, floral tones – just a beautiful, enticing aromatic display. The palate delivers what the nose promises, with deep concentration and grippy tannins but lively acidity and plenty of freshness. Tangy blueberries, blackberries and figs, mixes with smoky, earthy tones, and iron/graphite elements. A wine worthy of cellar contemplation and the choicest grilled meats, this is a delightful Mendoza Cabernet. (93 points)

2020 Bodega El Esteco Torrontés Don David Reserve - Argentina, Salta, Cafayate
SRP: $20
Light yellow color. The nose pops with classic notes of peaches and guava, with interesting salty, yellow flower and honeyed tones. The palate shows zippy acidity and a pleasantly creamy texture. Peaches and papaya flow, with tones of tropical flowers, sea salt and whipped honey. Crisp and bright but delightful textural depth and lovely Torrontes tropical goodness. (89 points)

2020 Durigutti Proyecto “Las Compuertas” Criolla Parral - Argentina, Mendoza, Lujan de Cuyo
SRP: $ 25
Pale ruby color. So juicy with aromas of raspberries, strawberries and red apple, with complex notes of spiced tea, pepper and airy roses. The palate is medium-bodied with silky tannins and bright acidity, which supports bright red fruit (red apple, raspberry and strawberry). Notes of lavender, rose petals, violets and clove add complexity, and air brings out sage, rhubarb and clay tones. So fresh, airy and floral with elegant, flora, spicy tones. I really want to see more wines like this from Argentina in the U.S. Made from Criolla Chica (Pais), this is something else! Crushable but complex and beautiful. (91 points)

Chile

2017 Viña San Pedro Cabernet Sauvignon Cabo de Hornos - Chile, Rapel Valley, Cachapoal Valley
SRP: $57
Dark purple. The aromas are so, so good, with deep currants, plums, smoky earth, menthol, a warm holiday cider vibe, really lovely. Full but fresh on the palate, the tannins show solid grip with refined edges, and the acidity is lively. Fresh currants and blackberries, joined with a unique mix of mint, tobacco, eucalyptus, clove, violets, a lot comes out with air. Nice concentration and freshness that will pay off in the cellar. 100% Cabernet. (92 points)

2019 Concha y Toro Carménère Marqués de Casa Concha - Chile, Rapel Valley, Peumo
SRP: $24
Deep purple color. Aromas show a classic mix of black cherries, tobacco, bell pepper, along with violet petals and coffee grounds – just delightful. Full-bodied, suave with blackberries and fig fruit, balanced with fresh acidity. Blackberries and cherry fruit, tangy but saucy, and it mixes well with roasted red pepper, coffee and tobacco tones. A lot of complexity in here for the price, and a really interesting expression of Carménère. (90 points)

2019 Concha y Toro Pinot Noir Marqués de Casa Concha - Chile, Limarí Valley
SRP: $20
Vibrant ruby color. A really spicy, floral and perfumed display on the nose with rose petals, black pepper, rhubarb and pepperoni over tangy red cherries. Crisp acidity, light tannins, this is a bright and floral Pinot with juicy strawberries and cranberry fruit. Notes of rose teal, paprika, rhubarb and sage add complexity to this fun, fresh wine. Shows a lot more complexity and authenticity than a lot of similarly-priced Pinot Noirs from a lot of other regions and countries. (89 points)

Italy

2020 Gran Passione Veneto Rosso - Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT
SRP: $14
Light purple color. The nose shows a pleasantly jammy mix of raspberries and cherries along with sweet rose petals and red licorice notes. The palate shows medium acidity and smooth, chewy tannins with sweet plums and raspberries. Has a saucy, fun appeal with notes of roses, clove and licorice. A fun, value-driven blend of Merlot and Corvina. (87 points)

France

N.V. Domaine du Moulin Gaillac Méthode Ancestrale - France, Southwest France, Gaillac
SRP: $20
Rich yellow color. The nose shows a delightful mix of white tea and candle wax, chalk dust, over lemons and yellow apples. The palate is zesty and brisk with a nice mix of whipped honey and limestone/chalky tones and delightfully fine bubbles. The yellow apple, lime and lemon fruit is fun and fresh and the wine maintains a floral, bright, steely appeal that would make this delightful with Ramen, sushi and more. Crisp and fun but enough depth to keep it interesting. Made from 100% Mauzac, a Pet-Nat lover’s wine for sure. (88 points)

2020 Domaine Duffour Côtes de Gascogne - France, Southwest France, Gascony, Côtes de Gascogne
SRP: $12
Medium yellow color. So bright on the nose, with limes and kiwi, lemongrass, tones of white pepper and oregano, a really fun, bright and spicy wine. Crisp and floral on the nose, zesty but some pleasant creaminess. Kiwi, lemon, green apples and white peach fruit mix well with floral perfume and celery seed tones. Super fun and fresh, nice creaminess, a delightful shellfish and salad wine. (87 points)

2018 Producteurs Plaimont Saint-Mont Nature Secrete - France, Southwest France, Gascony, Saint-Mont
SRP: $13
Deep, dark purple color. The nose shows a pleasant mix of campfire, roasted coffee and anise over top of black cherries and currants. On the palate this shows fresh acidity, some rough edges around the tannins but its also packed with tart currant fruit that makes it accessible. A complex mix of menthol, tar, pepper and earth. A spicy, tangy but friendly wine that would pair well with any grilled game and veg you could throw at it. Tannat with 15% Pinenc and 15% Cab Sauv. (86 points)

USA

2017 Gamble Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville
SRP: $60
Bright purple color. The nose shows a warm compote of roasted figs and tangy blueberries with deep tones of anise, clove and graphite, along with pepper, cocoa and some gravelly, loam tones. The palate shows firm tannins and medium acidity, along with a tart but sweet mix of blueberries, figs and black cherries. There’s a complex mix of smoky, minty, cocoa, tobacco and roasted chestnut elements. This wine sports a lot of concentration, age-worthiness and mystique, especially for a Napa Cab at this price point. Includes a combined 11% Petit Verdot, Malbec and Merlot, aged 20 months in 43% new oak. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Wine Selections for the Holidays

 It’s been a long year. Whatever holidays you may be celebrating, I wish you and yours safety, joy, and good food and wine.

So, this week I have some selections that are all over the map. I tried to curate some samples that would please crowds, provide joy and pair well with celebrations and wintry foods.

Like many of you, I’m sure, I love bubbles year-round. But, of course, from Thanksgiving through New Year’s, bubbles are huge, and I have a nice mix in here. From inexpensive tank method bubbles through some delightful Champagnes.

Domaine Bousquet brings its Charmat method bubbles, which are the best-selling bubbles from Argentina and are inexpensive, accessible and fun. Lanson delivers three different Champagne options that offer a nice view of their approach, while Bruno Paillard delivers, as always. And California's Frank Family brings two different Champagne method sparklers to the table.

There are some also deep, juicy, warm reds, too, from California’s Smith Madrone, Sullivan and Tooth & Nail.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

Sparkling wines

N.V. Domaine Bousquet Brut - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $13
Light yellow color. The nose shows a bright mix of lemon and kiwi with sugarcane, white flowers, and some crushed chalk and sweet tarts. The palate is bright and light with zippy acidity and integrated sugar, light bubbles, and flavors of lemons, green apple, kiwi, floral perfume, talc. Fresh, fun, light and steely, crowd-pleasing bubbles. 75/25 Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, 11 g/l residual sugar. (86 points)

N.V. Domaine Bousquet Brut Rosé - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $13
Pale salmon color. This has a crunchy and lively aromatic appeal with raspberry, tart strawberry and notes of rose petals and talc. Has a fresh and vibrant feel on the palate, with soft bubbles and a crisp, steely vibe. Strawberry and white cherry fruit mix with notes of honeysuckle, rose petals, and some crushed sweet tarts and chalk tones. Fresh, fun and zippy. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, 12 g/l residual sugar. (87 points)

N.V. Lucien Albrecht Crémant d'Alsace Brut - France, Alsace, Crémant d'Alsace
SRP: $23
Light gold color. Beautiful nose of lemons and pears, topped with honey, sea salt, bread dough and white flowers – a whole lot going on for a wine at this price point. Zesty and chalky on the palate with yellow apples and lemon fruit, mixed with some nuanced biscuit and dough notes. Nice verve and floral/salty kick. A classic value Cremant that would please a wide spectrum of palates. Pinot Blanc and Auxerrois with a 10 g/l dosage. (89 points)

N.V. Lucien Albrecht Crémant d'Alsace Brut Rosé - France, Alsace, Crémant d'Alsace
SRP: $23
Pale salmon color. The nose is crisp and floral with raspberry and red apples peel, along with chalk dust, wildflowers and perfume. Crisp and zesty on the palate with tight bubbles and flavors of raspberry, red apple peel and orange zest. Nervy and fresh, a light feel but not shy, and has some complex floral perfume, chalk and talc notes. This is reliable and delicious stuff and so reasonably priced. All Pinot Noir aged 12-18 months on the lees, 12 g/l dosage. (89 points)

N.V. Lanson Champagne Le Black Réserve Brut - France, Champagne
SRP: $50
Light gold color. Smells of lemons, kiwi and quince, along with lovely floral and mountain stream elements. The palate is crisp and light with lemons, green apples and limes, along with flinty, limestone and mineral elements. Zippy but nice fresh, crunchy bread elements. Light but fun. 50% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Meunier, aged four years on the lees, 8 g/l dosage. (88 points)

N.V. Lanson Champagne 1760 Le Rosé - France, Champagne
SRP: $70
Gorgeous salmon color with a nose of red apples and wild raspberry mixed with dried rose petals, tomato leaf, white pepper, talc and honey. The palate is tart and tart with dusty, salty, brightness and tones of raspberries white cherry and McIntosh apple. Salty, floral, honeyed and mint elements add complexity. Fresh and floral but shows a lot of depth as well. 53% Pinot Noir, 32% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Meunier. (90 points)

N.V. Lanson Champagne Green Label - France, Champagne
SRP: $75
Rich yellow color. The nose pops with green apples and lemons, chalk dust, honeysuckle along with limestone and sea salt. Crisp and fresh with green apples, lemons, along with graham cracker, honey and some chalky, flinty elements. Delightful, accessible, a fun, fresh, quite complex mix of  Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. (90 points)

N.V. Bruno Paillard Champagne Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Extra Brut - France, Champagne
SRP: $80
Light yellow color. An invigorating nose of saline, limestone and chalk mixed with yellow apples, lemons, biscuits and croissants. The palate is racy and crisp but shows a lovely depth of texture as well. Lemons, yellow apples and orange peel mix so well with chalky, salty, briny tones, and these deeper tones of bread dough and shaved ginger. Precise, beautiful stuff – there’s a lot of clarity and depth here. Aged four years sur lie, 5 g/l dosage. (92 points)

2015 Frank Family Vineyards Blanc de Blancs - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $55
Medium yellow color. Lovely nose of lemon curd and yellow apples with chalk dust, nougat, bread dough, some flinty tones. Creamy yet zesty on the palate with a chalky, flinty vibe that supports lemons, yellow apple and kiwi fruit. Pure, focused, dry and bright with a lot of complexity. An impressive iteration of Chardonnay sparkling wine from Frank Family. (91 points)

2016 Frank Family Vineyards Brut Rosé - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $55
Medium copper color. The nose shows a crunchy, focused appeal with lemons, red apple and white cherry, along with notes of fresh baguette, honeysuckle and white flowers. On the palate this is zesty and bright with lemons, raspberry and white cherries, along with a host of doughy, white flowers, chalk dust. So good, focused, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, a delight of a sparkler. (90 points)

Red Wines

2020 Tooth & Nail “Stasis” Carbonic Zinfandel - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Willow Creek District
SRP: $46
Vibrant ruby color. So fresh and fun on the nose with cherries and plums, mixed with sweet violets, rose petals, pepper and cocoa. Zesty acid, dusty tannins and a juicy core of cherries and raspberries. I love the farmer’s market mix of herbs and flowers, along with notes of clay, tobacco, pepper. It’s lively as heck but has solid textural depth as well. Fun and crushable but memorable and complex, too – loving this style. From Tooth and Nail’s estate vineyard in Paso’s Willow Creek AVA. (90 points)

2020 Tooth & Nail Wines Syrah “Destinata” - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $29
Pretty violet color. The nose is airy and open with wild raspberries and juicy blueberries along with roses, violets and cola. The palate has this plush feel with smooth tannins and zesty acidity. Gorgeous blueberry, raspberry and cherry, crunchy yet deep fruit. Notes of violet petals, warm black tea, pepper and leather add complexity. That carbonic goodness is so fun but the fruit and complexity underneath are legit. A crushable, Beaujolais-inspired Syrah that just rocks. (91 points)

2018 Smith-Madrone Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $62
Deep purple color. A warm, inviting mix of currants and black cherries with dusty earth, clay tobacco, leather, graphite, just a ton going on as it opens up. Full but suave with such vibrant acidity and structured tannins. The fruit is a deep but crunchy mix of tart currants and juicy cherries, and the fruit is mixed with delightful mix of earth and graphite, leather and charcoal, roasted red pepper and nuanced cedar. Complex, fresh, beautiful stuff, this will age wonderfully for who-knows-how-long. Includes some Merlot and Cabernet Franc, aged 21 months in 50% new French oak. (94 points)

2018 Sullivan Vineyards Coeur de Vigne - USA, California, Napa Valley, Rutherford
SRP: $110
Bright purple color. Exciting yet classic nose of black cherries and currants, laced with savory and spicy tones of leather, black tea, smoked meat, tilled soil – a lot to unpack here. Crisp acidity frames the wine well against solid, grippy tannins and a core of deep currants, plums and blackberries. The complexities are really impressive: black tea, light roast coffee, tar, violets, tobacco and roasted bell pepper. There’s also this flinty, graphite and iron mystique that underlines the whole thing. Deep yet vibrant, this deserves age, time and your attention. Includes 20% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot, aged 21 months in 65% new French oak. (94 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Oregon's Troon Just Keeps on Rockin'

Longtime readers may have seen me praise Oregon’s Troon Vineyard in the past. Well, here I am again to do it again.

I can’t help it – Troon just keeps putting out exciting wines. From old classics to an array of newer blends and styles in recent years, their across-the-board consistency has been pretty amazing. Based in the Applegate Valley of southern Oregon, Troon puts out are biodynamic wines with native yeasts and a fresh, spicy but focused appeal.

If your palate tends more toward the leaner side of the Syrah spectrum, and you’re happy with roasted, savory, spicy flavors, this trio of Troon Syrahs is definitely worth checking out. “Syrah may be the ideal variety for our site,” says winegrower Craig Camp. After tasting a lot of these wines over the years, it’s a convincing argument. These three wines offer a good view of their approach to this grape overall, and it was a joy tasting them together and parsing through the nuances. All three of them were aged 20 months in mature French oak.

The Druid’s Fluid wines are based on the traditional blends of the Cotes du Rhone, and deliver just what you’d hope for from their French counterparts: delicious fruit, some spicy accents, and lots of value. The Cotes du Kubli wines are blends from Troon’s Cowhorn Vineyard, and are called such because they’re sourced from the hills around the Kubli Bench, a plateau above the Applegate River. They’re consistently reliable and delicious expressions of Troon’s style.

And, while label aesthetics doesn’t affect what’s in the bottle, it still matters. And Troon has been revamping their design in different ways lately, and I think it’s paying off. From the flowy symbol design of the Druid’s Fluid to the detailed guidebook style drawings of their biodynamic preparations, the bottles really draw my attention. And then the juice itself overdelivers.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted, except for the three Syrahs, which I tasted single-blind.

2020 Troon Vineyard Druid’s Fluid White – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Light yellow color. The nose sports this salty, floral, citrus-popping appeal with lemon, orange, peach, with some chalky, flinty tones. The palate has this crisp, nervy, salty vibe, which works well with the lemon, orange peel and kiwi fruit. The floral and herbal complexity is really something, with this minty, celery seed, saline, honeysuckle tones and this pervasive sense of mountain stream freshness and mineral nerviness. So fun, so good. (90 points)

2020 Troon Vineyard Druid’s Fluid Red – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Deep ruby color. Gamay-esque goodness on the nose, so floral and accessible, gushing with strawberries and cherries, along with rose petals, potting soil, clay and potpourri tones. Zesty and brisk acidity, with dusty tannins and a bright feel. Juicy strawberries, cherries and raspberries, laced with deep violets, sage, some pepper and light roast coffee. This wine is all about the mouthfeel and vibe, which is fresh, inviting and delightful. (90 points)

2020 Troon Vineyard Côtes du Kubli Blanc – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Rich yellow color. The nose shows deep, fascinating scents of orange marmalade, lemon curd, with notes of whipped honey, nougat and sea salt. Deep texture with gorgeous honeyed mouthfeel and moderate acidity. Orange and lemon peel, yellow apple and pineapple fruit, juicy but fresh and focused. Notes of seashells, raw almond, hay, honey. A rich wine but crystal clear and so fresh. Seems like a few years of age could do some good. 55% Roussanne, 25% Marsanne, 20% Viognier, only 12.6% alcohol. (92 points)

2019 Troon Vineyard Cotes du Kubli Rouge – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $45
Vibrant purple color. Wow, so fresh on the nose with this chilled raspberry, cherry and strawberry fruit, along with these airy tones of flowers and crushed chalk, and spicier tones of pepper and mulling spices. Zesty and dusty on the palate with crisp acidity and a focused appeal. The red cherries, cranberry and raspberry fruit is lively and crisp, and mixed well with black pepper, violets, and complex leather and beefy tones. Wow this is gorgeous stuff. Unique, airy, lifted, yet deep and complex. 84% Syrah, 16% Grenache, 12.7% alcohol. (93 points)

2019 Troon Vineyard Syrah Estate – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $35
Deep ruby color. Ooh, so inviting on the nose with raspberries, strawberries and blueberries, mixed with violets, and a lot of spice (paprika, pepper, curry powder, bay leaf – so good). Crisp acidity, nicely structured with medium tannins and a deep but bright fruit profile (blueberry, strawberry and raspberry). The wine has this gorgeous floral, earthy, spicy appeal, with pepper, curry powder, a potpourri of dried wildflowers and clove. Pretty and alive with a mineral-laden finish. Could use at least a few years to show it’s best, but so delightful young, too. (91 points)

2019 Troon Vineyard Syrah Siskiyou – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $50
Beautiful ruby color. Freshness rules the aromas, with juicy cherries and strawberry tones, along with fascinating mix of pepper, pine tar, charcoal, violets and clove. On the palate, this shows crisp acidity and tannins that show a fine dusty grip. Delicious cherries and raspberries are mixed really well with elements of pepper, sage, warm clay, deep earth. Nuances of clove, tobacco and mineral round out the finish. It maintains this gravelly depth throughout – really delightful. From a cooler vineyard, named for the surrounding Siskiyou Mountains. (93 points IJB)

2019 Troon Vineyard Syrah Cowhorn Vineyard – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $50
Deep ruby color. On the nose, a nice kick of black pepper and roasted red pepper over top of the bright plum and juicy cherry fruit. Nice concentration on the palate with a moderate tannic backbone and bright acidity, which sets the stage for beautiful dark cherry and plum fruit. The savory depth is really something, with a host of pepper, braised meats, pepperoni, gravelly and loamy earth. An age-worthy wine but also so inviting and fresh, there’s a lot going on here. Fruit sourced from a cooler site, this is a fascinating Syrah that will age wonderfully for who knows how long. (93 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Fascinating Rioja Wines from Ramon Bilbao

There are plenty of heralded wine regions I have yet to visit, far more than I will likely see in my lifetime. But Rioja is high on that list. One day I hope to visit the cellars of Lopez de Heredia and explore the larger region, but until then, wine offers that ability to travel through the senses.

For years, Rioja wines have consistently delivered for me, and I have so many fond memories of serving these wines to friends and family at gatherings, especially around the holidays and colder months. A few years back, I befriended a reddish-colored, malnourished alley cat, and helped her out over a long winter with a steady diet of canned tuna and chicken scraps. I named her Rioja.

Anyway, I recently tasted through some interesting wines from Rioja’s Bodegas Ramón Bilbao that are worth highlighting. The bodega’s namesake opened the winery in 1924. He passed away just five years later, leaving the bodega to his son Enrique. The company has grown and expanded over the decades, especially lately, and has spread out to make wines in Rueda and Rias Baixas. In Rioja today, they have more than 200 hectares of vineyards, and source grapes from some 900 more. Featured today is a solid lineup, from entry-level up to the flagship Mirto, whose first vintage was 1999. Across the board, these wines are very well done and worth checking out if you, like me, enjoy Rioja.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2020 Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Rías Baixas – Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas
SRP: $19
Medium yellow color. Aromas show zesty lemon and crunchy green apples, with white flowers and chalk and a nice, deeper honeyed element. Zippy and crisp on the palate, this shows yellow apples, kiwi and lemons, along with sea salt, lemon verbena, white tea and chalky tones. A nice creamy factor gives it some depth. Fun, accessible Albarino. All stainless steel, this spends six months on the lees. (88 points)

2020 Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Rioja Rosado – Spain, Rioja
SRP: $18
Medium copper color. So fresh on the nose with lemons and white peach mixed with nettle, white pepper, dandelion greens and talc. The palate is zippy and crisp with nice textural depth. Flavors of white cherries and red apple peel mix well with notes of dandelion, chalk, talc, mint and minerals. There’s a bright, nervy, shellfish-friendly appeal but some nice complexity and depth, too. A lot going on. 85% Garnacha, 15% Viura. (88 points)

2017 Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Rioja Crianza – Spain, Rioja
SRP: $19
Vibrant ruby color. The nose shows spicy pepper and paprika, leathery, sage tones over top of juicy raspberry and red currant fruit. The palate shows tangy red and black cherries and currants on a frame of light tannins, livened by the acidity. Notes of red pepper flakes, leather, pepper and earth add complexity. It’s fun and fresh, but offers a good amount of depth, and a ton of food-friendly fun. 100% Tempranillo aged 14 months in American oak. (88 points)

2017 Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Rioja Edición Limitada – Spain, Rioja
SRP: $27
Light purple color. The nose exudes black cherries and red currants, along with scorched earth, leather, all sorts of incense sticks, with tones of cocoa and coffee. Nice grip on the palate, solid tannins meet well with moderate acidity, with a nice core of tart, dark currants and cherries. All sorts of fallen leaves, earth, soy, incense and black licorice elemnts add complexity. Needs air and some time to unpack the intricate savory tones, but this is very well done for the price. All Tempranillo aged 15 months in new French oak. (90 points)

2015 Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Rioja Reserva – Spain, Rioja
SRP: $27
Bright purple color. The nose shows deep cherries, plums and blackberries, with violets, warm clay and loamy earth, with sweet cocoa and sage tones – very pretty. Bright acidity gives this wine a lot of life, from start to finish, with nice tannic grip. Tangy cherry and plum fruit blends with complexities of cedar, sandalwood, clove, incense sticks and cigar box. Floral and earthy tones come out with air; this needs two to five years, then give it air and a nice roasted meat meal. Aged 20 months in American oak. (90 points)

2015 Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Rioja Mirto – Spain, Rioja
SRP: $45
Bright purple color. Tangy cherries and dark plums on the nose, inviting yet deep and intricate with notes of rosemary, paprika, mint and bay leaf. There’s a deep core of red and black currant fruit, nice strong grip but no harsh edges, moderating acidity – everything is lined up so nicely. The complexity is really nice, with these tar, spiced tea, leather, clove and iron tones, but air opens up all sorts of stuff. Oaky tones aren’t overdone, and this is balanced, age-worthy and very, very pretty. Impressive stuff that Rioja lovers should seek out. (93 points)

2012 Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Rioja Gran Reserva – Spain, Rioja
SRP: $39
Light purple color. The nose sports red cherries and some wild blackberry, with lovely tones of tilled soil, leather, tar, coffee and cedar. Really well-balanced on the palate with tangy acidity and suave but structured tannins. A juicy but tart mix of black cherries, laced with complex notes of leather, chewing tobacco, coffee grounds and cedar. Notes of bay leaf and mushroom broth come out with time. Vibrant and nuanced, fresh, refined already but needs a few years to show its best. 90% Tempranillo, the rest is Mazuelo and Graciano, aged 30 months in American oak. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

California Pinot Noir and Chardonnay for Autumn

In autumn, California pinot noir just hits the spot for me. Especially when the weather finally gets proper cool out, and I’m cooking dishes like cassoulet and braised meats again. It all makes sense with a fresh, delicious, savory pinot.

For California pinot fans, Sanford needs an introduction like metalheads need a primer on Black Sabbath. C’mon, we’re talking about legends, here — the history, the Santa Rita Hills vineyards that yield some classic wine. And 2019 marks the first full vintage with winemaker Trey Fletcher at the helm. After crafting wines with Littorai and Bien Nacido Vineyards, Sanford’s pinot noir is in very good hands for the future.

Fort Ross Winery delivers two different takes on Sonoma Coast pinot. The freshness in these is delightful, and if you’re a fan of that crisp red fruit and spice-toned thing like me, these are worth checking out. And Sonoma-Cutrer offers up a delicious 2019 pinot, too.

Oh, and there’s some corresponding chardonnays in this report because, well, they always go together.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

Pinot Noir

2020 Sanford Pinot Noir Rosé – USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
SRP: $20
Pale copper color. The nose shows a mix of sea salt, rose petals, and white pepper with red apple, wild strawberry and raspberry – just a delightful aromatic display. The palate is zippy and fresh, a crisp and nervy feel, with bright tones of red apples and tart raspberries. There’s this flinty, salty, mineral vibe that tastes authentic and exciting, and there’s some complex floral and spice tones that linger on the finish. Really impressive stuff, a rose to sip over two days, or age, too – it has that complexity that deserves it. Crazy value. (91 points)

2019 Sanford Pinot Noir – USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
SRP: $45
Vibrant ruby color. Fresh strawberries, cherries and raspberries on the nose, laced with notes of clay, rose petals, some sage, pepper and tobacco – lovely stuff. Crisp acidity greets the palate, with dusty tannins, a vibrant airy appeal, with juicy cherry and strawberry fruit. The complex tones of rose petals, tea and earth mix well with this minerality on the finish. Just an elegant and complex Pinot that shows Sanford continuing their stride. This should age beautifully for who \-knows-how-long, and also shows serious value A blend from Sanford & Benedict and La Rinconada Vineyards, aged 11 months in 25% new oak, 13.5% alcohol. (93 points)

2019 Sonoma-Cutrer Pinot Noir – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $35
Medium ruby color. The nose shows juicy, deep plums and black cherries with a mix of savory tones and black pepper, mesquite-like goodness. On the palate, this medium-bodied wine shows smooth tannins and moderate acidity, with saucier fruit (raspberries and black cherries), but it still shows a tangy edge. Notes of tar, pepper, tobacco mix with nuanced tones of cola and rhubarb. Classic, fun, delicious stuff that shows complexity as well – deserves some air or some time. Tank-fermented and aged 11 months in 1/3 new French oak. (90 points)

2019 Fort Ross Winery Pinot Noir Sea Slopes – USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $35
Juicy ruby color. Smells of fresh cherries, strawberries and cranberries, along with smooth, subtle vibes of rose petals and earth. Plush and smooth on the palate with moderate acidity and deep strawberry and cherry fruit, which is all nicely balanced. The savory elements of pepper, basil and rhubarb blend well with cola and light coffee. Accessible and moderately-priced but this wine backs it up with depth and complexity. Aged 18 months 10% new French oak, 13.5% alcohol. (90 points)

2018 Fort Ross Winery Pinot Noir Fort Ross Vineyard – USA, California, Sonoma County, Fort Ross – Seaview
SRP: $52
Dark ruby color. Suave but fresh on the nose with black cherries, raspberries, laced with coffee, bay leaf, loamy earth and clay – really inviting stuff. Smooth tannins and fresh acid on a medium-bodied frame sets a good stage for the chilled cherry fruit. Complex notes of rhubarb, bay leaf, pepper, rose potpourri, a lot of air brings out all sorts of nuance. This will benefit from a few years in the cellar and accompany many a dish very well. Aged 10 months in 30% new French oak. (91 points)

Chardonnay

2019 Sanford Chardonnay – USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
SRP: $40
Light yellow color. Lively aromas with lemon and yellow apples, all sorts of nuances of chalk, crushed shells, salted nuts, wildflowers and honey. On the palate, this is balanced wonderfully, with a frame of bright acidity, a creamy texture, and a mix of lemon, honeydew melon and yellow apple fruit. There’s a chalky, salty, mineral-infused vibe that is lovely, and a host of nougaty, honeyed, biscuity depth, and the balance is wonderful. A brisk, flinty yet creamy finish. A delightfully complex and thought-provoking Santa Rita Chardonnay Hills. A blend of fruit from Sanford & Benedict and La Rinconada Vineyards, aged 11 months in 16% new oak, 13.5% alcohol. (93 points)

2019 Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay The Cutrer – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $35
Light yellow color. Aromas of lemon bars and yellow apples, with shaved ginger, hay, almond and sea salt. Creamy texture but vibrant acidity with crunchy green and yellow apples and lemon curd fruit. Notes of almond, hay, ginger and peanut shell mix well with some flinty, mineral tones. A harmonious, fresh, well-balanced Sonoma Chardonnay. All maloactic fermentation, aged 13 months in 25% new oak. (90 points)

2019 Fort Ross Winery Chardonnay Sea Slopes – USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $30
Rich yellow color. The nose sports richer tones of honey and almond with brighter tones of white flowers over yellow apple and kiwi fruit. Creamy yet focused on the palate with yellow apple, kiwi and lemon curd fruit. Notes of graham cracker and walnut, dried pineapple, but also salty, floral brightness, too. Rides a nice line and offers all Chardonnay lovers something. Aged 14 months in stainless steel and oak, 5% new. (90 points)

2019 Fort Ross Winery Chardonnay Fort Ross Vineyard – USA, California, Sonoma County, Fort Ross – Seaview
SRP: $44
Deep yellow color. Aromas of pear and honey, almond and graham cracker, with chalky, crushed oyster shell elements, too. On the palate, zesty acid frames the wine well, a racy yet creamy mouthfeel with orange peel and yellow apple fruit. Complex notes of chamomile, salted almond, honeycomb, with oyster shell and chalk dust. Pristine, crisp finish, deep yet salty. This should age wonderfully. Aged 11 months in 30% new French oak. (92 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Tilia Wines from Argentina are Still Delivering

The first time I tried wines from Tilia, it was in 2007, just a year after the winery was founded. Back then, I was relatively new to wine appreciation, and methodically tasting wines, region by region, from all of the countries available to me. But value was essential. And I found that these Tilia wines offered deliciousness and balance that outperformed a lot of similarly-priced wines I was tasting from California, Australia or South Africa.

Things have now come full circle, and here I am tasting and reviewing their 2020 offerings. These wines are all $11 suggested retail, and brought in this summer by Winebow. At that price point, some may be skeptical – but the quality in here is serious. Based in Junin, Mendoza, the wines are sourced from around Mendoza made by Gonzalo Llensa.

I’m of the opinion that these wines are solid across the board. I think they offer a lot for those who are newer to wine and eager to try new things, without spending much. They could also be a hit on a by-the-glass list.

The labels are tasteful and sport their sustainability efforts and certification — and I think all of this combines to make them an attractive entry-level brand to a wide audience. After all these years, it’s refreshing to see Tilia still delivering.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2020 Tilia Chardonnay – Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $11
Light yellow color. Juicy nose of yellow plums, lemons, with honey, sea salt and some raw almond. Crisp and zesty on the palate but some nice round texture. Yellow apples and lemon fruit, with honeyed, floral perfume tones. Ripe and fun but it stays so lively throughout. I’m just impressed with the balanced and depth of a Chardonnay at this price point. (87 points)

2020 Tilia Torrontés – Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $11
Medium straw color. A nice peachy nose with kiwi and lychee nectar, and bountiful notes of dandelions and honey. Medium-bodied with vibrant acidity, and a juicy combo of peaches, lychee and papaya. Notes of honey, floral perfume, some cool celery seed, lemongrass and even some flinty, mineral tones. Really fun, summery stuff that shows a good amount of complexity. (87 points)

2020 Tilia Malbec – Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $11
Medium purple color. Aromas of jammy raspberries and red plums, with some coffee, vanilla and rose potpourri tones. On the palate, this is smooth and silky with lightly chewy tannins and medium acidity. Blueberry and raspberry fruit, juicy and suave, blends with cola, clove and some earthy, espresso tones. Fun, fresh, interesting stuff. All Malbec, all stainless steel. (88 points)

2020 Tilia Cabernet Sauvignon – Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $11
Light purple color. Smells of ripe red currants, some blueberries, with mocha, tobacco, elements of cedar and vanilla. Smooth and fresh on the palate with an easy-drinking tannic appeal and medium acidity. Straightforward but fun with blueberries and black cherries, with tones of spiced tea, tobacco and mint. Balanced, crowd-pleasing stuff. (86 points)

2020 Tilia Merlot – Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $11
Deep ruby color. Nose sports red currants and red plums with fun tones of rose and violet petals, with coffee and clove. Medium-bodied, with smooth tannins and moderate acidity. Raspberry and red cherry fruit blends well with these roasted red pepper and paprika tones, rose petals. Just fun, fresh, bright feel. Another great value here. (88 points)

2020 Tilia Bonarda – Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $11
Bright purple color. The nose boasts blueberries and blackberries with a nice mix of smoky, campfire tones, earthy, charcoal elements, tobacco and cedar. Medium-bodied with smooth tannins and refreshing acidity – everything is right down the middle. Black cherries and blueberry fruit blends well with graphite, tobacco and violets. Drink now with some grilled meat and veg kebabs – impressive. All Bonarda in stainless steel. (87 points)

2020 Tilia Malbec – Syrah – Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $11
Bright purple. A juicy nose with black cherries and blueberries, along with some pepper, smoky earth, violet petals. Fresh and bright on the palate with dusty tannins, an accessible feel with juicy black cherry fruit. Notes of pepper, potting soil, some violet and rose petal potpourri. A crowd-friendly wine that shows a lot of balance and complexity at this price point. (87 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.