Wednesday, August 24, 2022

Summery rosatos from Italy -- cheap and delicious

Don’t worry – there’s still plenty of time left in summer, at least technically. It seems like summer lasts forever these days anyway, but luckily, so does pink wine season.

This week I have a handful of rosato wines from Italy that I found interesting and exciting. From Veneto to Puglia, these wines are made from traditional regional grapes like Montepulciano and Susumaniello, and their colors span the gamut from pale copper to raspberry juice.

Considering the recent high inflation levels, I find it refreshing to see well-crafted, delicious pink wine at these price points. These wines are all exclusively imported by Dalla Terra Winery Direct, which allows distributors to get these wines direct from the wineries and keeps the prices very reasonable. Whoever they have selecting Italian rosato wines clearly knows what they’re doing, as I found this to be an impressive and diverse portfolio. If you’re looking to replenish some of your rosé stash, check your local market for some of these wines.

This week’s selections were received as samples and tasted single blind.

2021 Tenuta Sant'Antonio Rondinella Rosato "Scaia” - Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT
SRP: $15
Medium copper color. The aromas boast a lovely mix of sea salt, white pepper and crushed rocks along with raspberries and white cherries, some honeysuckle and mint. The palate has a plush texture with crisp acidity, along with raspberry, cherry and crunchy McIntosh apple fruit. The wildflower, breezy open meadow and honeysuckle tones are lively and fresh, and there’s a nice mineral and green herbal undertone. A bright, zippy, floral style with a lot of value. Made from all Rondinella in the Mezzane di Sotto commune of Valpolicella. (89 points)

2021 Garofoli Montepulciano Rosato “Komaros” - Italy, Marche, Marche IGT
SRP: $14
Light strawberry color. The nose pops with a pleasant mix of raspberries, limes and peaches, topped in white and yellow flowers and cool notes of mint and verbena. Punchy texture, lively acidity, this has a pleasant briny element to accent the ripe watermelon, kiwi and white peach fruit. Notes of chalk dust, celery seed and mint add a spicy kick to this fresh, juicy rosato. All Montepulciano from clay soil vineyards in Cònero. (90 points)

2021 Masseria Li Veli Negroamaro Rosato “Torrerose” - Italy, Puglia, Salento IGT
SRP: $15
Pale copper color. A great combination of juicy strawberries, red apples, along with floral perfume, chalk dust, and a mix of spicy, herbal and floral elements that blend well together. Medium-bodied with pleasant creaminess that accents the bright acidity well, and the watermelon, strawberry and white cherry fruit is highly delicious. The complex mix of non-fruit elements is exciting: white pepper, mint, cucumber slices, crushed sea shells. This has finesse and gluggability in equal parts. Negroamaro from clay and limestone soils in the Brindisi province. (90 points)


2021 Masseria Li Veli Susumaniello Rosato “Askos”
- Italy, Puglia, Salento IGT
SRP: $23
Medium copper color. An explosion of peaches and cantaloupe on the nose, drizzled with lime, along with and interesting mix of honeysuckle, cucumber slices, whipped cream and honey. The palate shows creamy texture and lively acidity, with a range of juicy fruit (lime, strawberry, cantaloupe and white peach). Some flinty, chalky, green herbal tones mix well with creamier, honeyed elements. Juicy but fresh, balanced and fun. Susumaniello grapes from clay and limestone soils in Brindisi. (89 points)

2021 Fattoria La Valentina Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo - Italy, Abruzzi, Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo
SRP: $14
A deep strawberry color. The nose shows a delightful mix of pomegranate, watermelon and cherry fruit, along with daisies, white pepper and honey, a ripe but nuanced appeal. The palate is packed with juicy deliciousness and creamy texture (flavors of white peach, cherry, strawberry and pomegranate) but also balanced with crisp acidity. Notes of yellow and white flowers, clove, some spicy tones, herbal tea and honey. Delicious and ripe but nuanced and complex. A lot going on here, and tons of value. Cerasuolo grapes from clay soils in the Pescara province. (91 points)


Saturday, August 20, 2022

Wine Reviews: International grab bag

This week’s report encompasses a range of wines that speak to diversity and value.

Oregon Pinot fans are surely aware of Willakenzie, which formed in 1991 and boasts a 420-acre estate in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA. Five years ago, Erik Kramer joined as winemaker, continuing on the Pinot legacy but branching out into Chardonnay as well.

I’ve known Mendoza’s Trapiche mostly for their widely-available and inexpensive Malbec, but they’ve got some gems in their portfolio as well. Take the Terroir Series, three single-vineyard Malbecs that offer nuance, depth and distinction at a very reasonable price. From vines all planted above 3,000 feet, winemaker Sergio Case is doing something special with these wines. Age-worthy and packed with value, I wouldn’t hesitate to buy a few of these apiece and forget about them in the cellar for a few election cycles.

For these hot, humid days, I also have some Cavas from Bella Conchi that offer a lot of fun without breaking the bank. And one rosé from Napa’s Smith-Madrone – only the third time they’ve made this one, but it really rocks.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted, while the Trapiche wines were tasted single blind.

2017 Trapiche Malbec Terroir Series Finca Ambrosia - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Gualtallary
SRP: $40
Dark purple color. Saucy but tart nose of red and black currants and cherries, along with mesquite, chewing tobacco, some sage, violet petals, and rich, loamy soil. The palate is precise and focused with dusty tannins and lively acidity. The black cherry and currant fruit is juicy but tangy, and topped in dustings of mesquite, tobacco, tar, leather, campfire, hints of mushroom and forest floor. There’s this stony, mineral essence that lingers long on the finish. Complex but vibrant, this is showing great right now but will do well with three-to-five in the cellar. From Gualtallary vines planted at 4,200 feet. (92 points)

2017 Trapiche Malbec Terroir Series Finca Orellana - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, La Consulta
SRP: $40
Deep purple color. Ooh this nose is lovely! I get dark plums, black cherries, with these deep, stony, rocky, earthy tones (graphite, smashed rocks, paved road, potting soil), with violet and pepper nuances. The palate is grippy and well-structured with vibrant, lip-smacking acidity – the balance is on point. Tart black currant and blackberry fruit blends well with notes of tar, campfire, potting soil, roasted red pepper, anise and leather. I also get nuanced tones of coffee and mocha and a deep mineral presence throughout. A stony but bright finish. Wow, I’d love to see this in five years, but it’s so expressive young, too. From 62-year-old La Consulta vines at 3,250 feet, aged 18 months in French oak and a year in bottle. (93 points)

2018 Trapiche Malbec Terroir Series Finca Coletto - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Tupungato
SRP: $40
Deep purple color. So suave and inviting on the nose, with fig paste and plum sauce, doused in violets, clay and potting soil, some cocoa, anise and pencil shavings. Structured so well, grippy but refined tannins, balanced with crisp acidity. Tangy but deep plums, with figs and cranberry relish – interesting mix of fruit – backed up with complexities of violet and clove potpourri, tilled soil, graphite, minerals. This needs time to coax out the savory nuances packed in here, and this will age so nicely. Long, zippy, fresh, spicy finish. Aged 18 months in French oak and 12 months in bottle. From 57-year-old vines at El Peral, 3,700 feet. (92 points)

2019 WillaKenzie Estate Chardonnay Estate Cuvée - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton
SRP: $75
Medium yellow color. The aromas are so fresh, with kiwi, yellow apples, topped in chalk, stony minerals, saline, some bread crumbs and honey. The palate is full of precise acidity and deep texture, with flavors of lemons and limes and crunchy yellow apples. Some floral perfume and saline tones blend well with biscuits, bread dough and some honey. A very clear and focused Chardonnay that should age nicely. Really surprising and delicious stuff. (92 points)

2018 WillaKenzie Estate Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton
SRP: $50
Medium ruby color. The aromas are so juicy and fresh, with raspberries and fresh cherries, along with rhubarb and cola, rose petals and some earthy, clay tones. The palate shows suave tannins and crisp acidity, with tangy, fresh raspberries, cherries and red plums. The fruit is blended well with notes of rose petals, pepper, cola, some tobacco. Lots to unpack with air and time; this is delightful. (91 points)

2018 WillaKenzie Estate Pinot Noir Emery - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
SRP: $75
Deep ruby color. Beautiful nose of tangy strawberries with warm raspberry jam, topped in complex tones of mint, pepper, anise, rhubarb, just a lot going on here. The tannins are chalky but structured, balanced nicely with zippy acidity, and the red cherry and strawberry fruit is juicy and fresh. The complexities of black tea, pepper, sage, oregano, cola and rhubarb go on and on and offer a lot to contemplate and enjoy. Pretty, balanced, with a very long finish. This could use at least two or three years, but what a beaut. (93 points)

2021 Smith-Madrone Rosé - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $30
Deep watermelon color. Juicy strawberry aromas, watermelon, lemon, topped in a complex mix of roses and daisies, honeysuckle, saline and mint – smells so delightful. The palate sports juicy texture with vibrant acidity, and the balance between the depth and freshness is great. Watermelon, red apple peel and ripe pear fruit mixes with rose petals and honeysuckle. Air and warmth bring out notes of sea salt, chalk, white pepper and oregano add complexity. The nuance and balance are delightful. Cabernet Franc with 33% Merlot. Awesome value. (92 points)

N.V. Bella Conchi Cava Brut Reserva - Spain, Cava
SRP: $17
Light yellow color. The nose is bright and zesty with yellow apples, limes, tones of floral perfume and chalk dust. The palate is zippy and brisk with limes, tart apricot and yellow apples. Light bubbles and a chalky, talc-infused frame mixes with white and yellow flowers and slight biscuit tones. A lighter style but a lot going on as well, and solid value. (87 points)

N.V. Bella Conchi Cava Brut Rosé - Spain, Cava
SRP: $16
Bright watermelon color. Nose of red apple peel, tar cranberry, with floral perfume, crushed sweet tarts and hints of white pepper. Crisp and zippy on the palate with a tart, crunchy feel to the fruit (raspberry, red apple peel). Notes of chalk, limestone, sliced cucumber and some mint add complexity. A racy, fun appeal. (86 points)

N.V. Bella Conchi Cava Brut Seleccion - Spain, Cava
SRP: $17
Medium yellow color. Aromas of crisp green and yellow apples, with some hay, saline and crushed limestone – a lemony, fresh appeal. Nice textural depth on the palate, with bright acidity. Green apple and papaya fruit mixes with yellow flowers, fresh basil, cucumber slices and limestone elements. Lots going on here, with light biscuit dough on the finish. (88 points)

Tuesday, August 9, 2022

California’s Lobo Wines and Hawk and Horse

I’m back to California this week with two producers who have some delightful new releases worth sharing.

I’ve been a fan of Lake County’s Hawk and Horse for years, so I was excited to taste their 2019 offerings. Especially considering the winery didn’t produce any wines in 2018 due to wildfires. Luckily, they’re back to form with their consistent, small-lot Bordeaux reds, which are sourced from the winery’s 18-acre estate vineyard, sitting at 1,800 to 2,000 feet with some steep slopes. The rocky, red volcanic soil and terroir here offer a signature fresh acidity that complements the dark fruit and pronounces spice tones very well. If you haven’t ventured far into Lake County wines, this is a great biodynamic producer to get to know.

Earlier this year, I tasted Napa’s Lobo Wines for the first time, and I’m back to check out their new 2019 vintage releases. I’m finding a lot of consistency in quality and deliciousness from this producer. Napa wines are never cheap, but this producer really offers a lot of interesting wines with fun flavors and styles for very reasonable prices.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2019 Lobo Wines Pinot Noir Wulff VineyardsUSA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $50
Deep ruby color. The nose shows a nice mix of sweet plums and black cherries along with tart red currants and cranberry relish, along with savory spices, rose potpourri, some clay and potting soil elements – a lot going on. Suave, full but fresh on the palate with smooth tannins and moderate acidity, with flavors of tart cranberry relish and juicy red cherries. Tones of cinnamon, rose hips, rhubarb, clay, spicy pepper. Very pretty, nuanced, should show a lot of exciting development the next three to five years. (91 points)

2019 Lobo Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Wulff VineyardsUSA, California, Napa Valley, Atlas Peak
SRP: $105
Deep purple color. Ooh, such a deep and saucy nose, with a compote of plums, blackberry, and complex tones of mocha, spiced black tea, gravelly earth and warm, sun-roasted herbs. The palate is full but vibrant with grippy but chewy tannins and lively acidity, with bold but tart blackberry, currant and plum fruit. Notes of earth, tar, chewing tobacco, they add complexity and depth, nuanced cedar and mocha elements. This will age wonderfully. (93 points)

2019 Lobo Wines Merlot Wulff VineyardsUSA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $70
Vibrant purple color. Aromas of cherries and tart currants, plum sauce, with violets and graphite, along with tilled soil, coffee grounds – a lot going on here. The palate shows suave tannins, moderate acidity, a velvety and balanced appeal here. Tangy black and red currant fruit mixed with complexities of black tea, pepper, rosemary and thyme. Intriguing stuff that should age nicely for a solid bunch of years to come. (91 points)

2019 Lobo Wines Howl Wulff VineyardsUSA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $70
Vibrant purple color. Smells delightful, with plum and black cherry compote, so spicy and fun, with pepper, paprika, campfire and mesquite. The palate is full with a nice grip, smooth edges to the tannins, buttressed by vibrant acidity, well-balanced. The plum and tart blueberry fruit is delicious, with notes of tar, anise, mesquite, violets. There are some stony, mineral and earth tones to spare. Love the freshness – and this will age nicely. Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. (92 points)

2019 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Petit VerdotUSA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $65
Dark purple color. A deep core of roasted figs, plum sauce, along with charcoal, graphite, tilled soil, coffee grounds, violets – needs air to coax out the depths. The palate shows a solid core of roasted figs and currant paste, grippy tannins, moderate acidity, impressive balance and complexity. Cool mix of spicy and refreshing elements, and I get a lot of mesquite, tar, graphite, roasted red peppers and gravelly earth. A long-ager for sure. Don’t be scared of PV – this is delicious stuff! All Petit Verdot aged in 100% French oak. (91 points)

2019 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Petite SirahUSA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $65
Deep purple color. The nose shows a nice mix of tangy plums and blueberries, with spicy pepper, anise, some coffee, toffee and mocha. Nice grip on the palate but the tannins have these suave edges and the acidity is really nice, balancing out the deep plum and currant fruit. Notes of black olive, tar, mocha, black pepper and bell pepper add complexity, and I love the deep, earthy, mineral and stony vibes in here. There’s a ton of freshness in here for a Petite Sirah. This puppy will age wonderfully. All PS aged in all French oak. (91 points)

2019 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Cabernet SauvignonUSA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $75
Medium purple color. Deep but tart aromas of blueberry and black cherries, with complex, deep and spicy tones: tar, mocha, sage, sweet red pepper, black pepper and balsamic glaze. The palate is full but smooth and, like the others, this wine’s acidity is really nice. Tangy plums and juicy black currant fruit blends well with leather, paprika, black pepper, spicy tobacco, mint. A lot going on, and I’d like to see this in five or six years. Cab Sauv with 2% Petit Verdot, aged in 100% French oak. (92 points)

2019 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Cabernet FrancUSA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $65
Deep purple color. The nose sports mulled cherries and deep currant fruit, with a spicy mix of anise, black pepper, tar, leather and espresso. Full but fresh, this shows solid grip but smooth edges to the tannins and moderate acidity. The fig paste and cranberry relish fruit is delicious, and it’s backed up with tar, anise, cocoa, sweet bell pepper, chewing tobacco and some black olive. Really fun and lively but also pretty, complex and age-worthy. All Cab Franc aged in 100% French oak. (91 points)

Wednesday, July 27, 2022

Climbing lessons from owlets

Barred owlet "Floof" on a first ascent

One year ago this week, I started taking climbing seriously. As an avid hiker, wilderness explorer, and general outdoorsperson, I’ve had plenty of experience scrambling, route-finding, and getting myself on top of rock outcroppings. But, after years of avoiding technical climbing and a few too many un-roped and amateurish close calls, I decided to learn the ropes.

For the first several weeks, I wasn’t sure I even liked climbing. That time involved a lot of mistakes, banged-up knees, ripped-open callouses, a tarnished ego, swearing, and frustration. I wanted to climb harder routes and boulders well and skillfully, and fast – an unreasonable goal.

So, I climbed as much I could. I took classes from guides, subscribed to two dozen climbing YouTube channels, devoured some climbing books, and observed and befriended more advanced climbers so I could absorb their knowledge. As I grew my skills and confidence, I fell in love with it. About two months in, I knew I was a lifer. Since then, I’ve enjoyed pushing myself and learning new disciplines, while being honest and respectful about the huge amount of knowledge, skill, and wisdom I’ve yet to obtain.

As in other passions, I turn to the natural world for lessons and inspiration. One of my favorite pursuits these past few years has been finding and photographing owls, specifically nesting pairs. As I was observing several owls’ nests this year, and with climbing on my mind, I realized they could teach me a few things.

When young owls (owlets) prepare to leave the nest, they spend a lot of time practicing and preparing. Their wings aren’t fully operational yet, so they must climb (or branch) first. During this process, they frequently fall to the ground, where they are most vulnerable. So, they have to climb back up, and a single tree climb can last hours. Over the years, I’ve observed some owlets on their “first ascents,” and I think there are some interesting lessons for a new climber like me. Of course, we’re not owls. We use hands and feet, and they use talons and beaks. They climb trees, and we climb rocks and mountains. So, what could they possibly teach us?

Well, here are four takeaways from my owlet climbing instructors.

Everybody falls

Fully inspect your surroundings: Most of the owlets I observe begin their lives deep inside a tree cavities. It takes weeks before they’re old enough to poke their head out and look around. With their big eyes and bobbly heads, they obsessively inspect their terrain. By the time they are ready to venture out of the nest, they are already intimately aware of what’s out there – a wise approach. Likewise, climbing has given me that extremely heightened level of awareness of my surroundings, and I always try to keep that focus.

Rest often: Owlets and new climbers tire easily. And that’s because strength and endurance are gained over time. I hate resting. I frequently find myself moving fast early and passing natural resting points, only to get pumped out near the end and missing a move or taking a slip. When I watch an owlet in a tree, they rest way more than they climb, and they use whatever holds they have available to them. They take their time and never seemed rushed. This gives me the kind of reminder I need: that taking a break is a necessary part of any physically or mentally challenging endeavor. And the ability to rest whenever possible helps successfully complete harder projects and prevent injury, which are my two main goals.



Watch, learn, send
: Owlets pay close attention to their parents and are great imitators. Before attempting something, it seems an owlet has first thought about it a lot. When the biggest owlet of the brood first fledges, you can bet the smallest is taking notes. And when it’s finally time to go for it, they are all in. Observing others and building mental preparedness has been key to my growth as a climber. Everyone’s shape, skills, and style are different, and I love watching someone else climb the same route and noticing the movements I never would’ve made. “Whoa, that was cool – I need to try that,” is a thought I’ve had many times, and I imagine something similar goes through the minds of a fledgling owlet.

Stay stoked: I know I’m anthropomorphizing a lot here, but this year was a really special one for me with owlets. I got to see this owlet’s first foray from the nest and watch it take its first big fall. It deployed its not-yet-functional wings, but still fell pretty quickly, landing in a smooth-ish manner in a pile of leaves. It looked around while on the ground and, upon realizing he was okay, stared at me. On his face, I read a look that said: “Did you just see that?! That was gnarly!” Owlets just seem stoked to be owlets, and they enjoy learning. Whenever I’m frustrated or a bit nervous, I try to remember that the whole purpose of this endeavor is to have fun, to push my limits, and to just enjoy being alive. Like these adorable owlets.



Tuesday, July 26, 2022

Summer-friendly value in Chilean Sauvignon Blanc

Talinay Vineyard. Credit: Tabali

 

I’ve long wanted to travel to Chile, because it would be easy to combine some of my favorite passions in life into one big trip. I’d tour vineyards and meet with winemakers, take surf treks to remote reef breaks, an expedition into the mountains, enjoy birdwatching adventures in coastal estuaries. I have not clue if these goals will be realized, but I sure hope so.

In the meantime, everything is so expensive! But Sauvignon Blanc from Chile isn’t -- and a lot of it is pretty dang good. Sauv Blanc is Chile’s second most widely-planted variety (more than 37,000 acres under vine), and the grape is planted all over the country’s diverse wine regions. There’s way too much to try and summarize (thousands of miles of coastal and mountainous terrain), but considering the narrow stretch of the country, they share coastal influences, which keep the wines vibrant and delicious. If you like hints of sea salt in your Sauv Blanc like I do, you can get a lot of that here.

Another thing I respect is how the country’s wine consortium created a sustainability code that addresses different environmental practices, and it’s been adopted by producers that represent about 80% of the country’s exports. And while there are some well-known supermarket brands I’ve seen around for years, I’m finding more and more Chilean Sauvignon Blanc from new-to-me producers popping up, and I like that.

For beach reads, octopus salads, baked flounder, a big tray of oysters, and a host of other summertime activities, Chilean Sauv Blancs would fit the bill very nicely. And most of the wines are in that $20 range, and offer a lot more depth and complexity than a lot of other similarly-priced Sauv Blancs from other countries. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted single-blind.

2021 Viña Cono Sur Sauvignon Blanc Organic - Chile
SRP: $11
Inviting and bright aromatics with lemons, green apple and white peach, along with some welcomed honey, and plenty of white floral tones. The palate shows pleasant creaminess with chunks of pineapple and peach, drizzled with lime. The honeyed cream tones help balance out the zestier, more floral and chalky tones, stays focused. Really solid for the price. (87 points)

2020 Concha y Toro Sauvignon Blanc Casillero del Diablo Reserva - Chile, Colchagua Valley
SRP: $12
The lemon and green apple fruit aromas are lively, blending well with these sliced cucumber and ramp leaf elements, some honeysuckle and limestone. Bright acidity, light-bodied but some nice depth to the green apple, lemon and kiwi fruit. Notes of quinine, chalk and talc add some complexity, with some minerals on the finish. Quite nice and a lot going on here for the price. (87 points)

2020 Casas del Bosque Sauvignon Blanc - Chile, Casablanca Valley
SRP: $18
A nice aromatic mix of floral and spicy tones (lemongrass, ginger, white pepper, dandelion) over top of lemon, kiwi and ruby red grapefruit. The palate sports juicy white peaches, drizzled with lime, on a zesty, clear frame. The notes of white pepper, oregano and white flowers add a nice spicy complexity. A pretty, vibrant Sauv Blanc. (88 points)

2020 Ritual Sauvignon Blanc - Chile, Casablanca Valley
SRP: $21
The nose is zesty and chalky with sea salt, lemon verbena and honeysuckle sprinkled over green apples and limes. The palate is crisp and flinty yet sports a nice creaminess. The apple, green pear and lime fruit is crunchy but juicy, and mixed with pleasant notes of mint, sliced cucumber, honeysuckle. The texture on the palate, and the balance with the bright acidity, is delightful. This wine punches above its weight and would be a killer by-the-glass wine on an oyster bar list. (89 points)

2020 Matetic Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc EQ Coastal - Chile, Casablanca Valley
SRP: $20
Spicy aromatics of chives, leeks and mint over top of white cherry and lime, some white pepper and honeysuckle. The palate is crisp and floral with a punchy and zesty appeal and green apple, kiwi and lime fruit. Crisp, flinty, sea salty, this has a light and salad-friendly appeal, but shows solid complexity as well. (88 points)

2020 Morandé Sauvignon Blanc Gran Reserva - Chile, Casablanca Valley
SRP: $20
A lime-infused aromatic display of creamy peaches, white flowers, honey and some dandelion and mint. Creamy texture, bright acidity, there’s a nice lime and orange element that blends well with creamy honey and almond (there’s some barrel-fermentation here). The limestone, sea salt and floral tones mix really well with the creamier elements. The racy nature of some Chilean Sauv Blanc can take well to some barrels, and this rides that balance very well. (90 points)

2020 Amayna (Viña Garces Silva) Sauvignon Blanc - Chile, San Antonio Valley, Leyda Valley
SRP: $25
This one is really perfumed and fresh with lilies and dandelion over top of lemons and white peach, with some hints of white pepper and sliced cucumber. Nicely textured on a medium-bodied frame with crisp acidity and flavors of white peach and pineapple. Notes of celery, white pepper and fresh cut flower stems add complexity. Love the flinty note on the textured finish. (89 points)

2021 Montes Sauvignon Blanc Limited Selection - Chile, San Antonio Valley, Leyda Valley
SRP: $15
The aromas pop with lime, papaya and green apple, along with wild leeks, celery seed, sliced jalapeno and honeysuckle, which makes for this spicy, inviting appeal. Racy acidity on a medium-bodied frame with crunchy green apples and lemon, some ruby red grapefruit. The accents of spicy bell pepper and mint leaf blend well with the orange blossom and honeysuckle tones. Ripe but racy, pleasantly spicy. Another really solid value. (88 points)

2021 Viña Koyle Sauvignon Blanc Costa la Flor - Chile, San Antonio Valley
SRP: $18
Peachy keen aromatics with lime zest, with notes of nettle, honeysuckle, mint and sliced green onion. The palate is crisp and tart on a light frame a slightly honeyed texture blends well with the peaches and orange peel fruit. Salty, flinty, minerals, crisp and clear, this is a really good sushi by-the-glass kinda wine, offering crowd-pleasing deliciousness and value. (88 points)

2021 Tabalí Sauvignon Blanc Talinay - Chile, Limarí Valley
SRP: $24
Aromatically this is citrus-infused brightness with lemon and limes, topped in celery seed, white flowers and sea salt. Focused and crisp on the palate, light and vibrant with flavors of lemon and orange peel. Notes of sliced green onion and mint, some chalk dust and dandelion. Crisp, punchy, light and salad-friendly goodness. (88 points)

2019 Ventisquero Sauvignon Blanc Grey Glacier Longomilla Vineyard ­ Chile, Atacama, Valle de Huasco
SRP: $25
Really juicy on the nose with mango, papaya and lime, a lovely tropical blend, along with honey, yellow flowers, some wildflower and mint tones. The palate has a really pretty and creamy texture, lively acidity, the balance is on point, and the fruit shows pretty guava, peach and lemon. Vigorous and energetic, this has a streak of mineral, slate, seashells, with complex floral and chive tones. Focused, impressive depth. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Monday, July 4, 2022

Fourth of July wine

It’s Fourth of July weekend, so that means we need some American wines in the mix. This weekend, I’m spending time at the ballpark with the kiddo, grilling with some friends, sipping some wines and listening to the neighborhood dogs lose their minds over the incessant fireworks.

I hope you’re all enjoying the weekend and holiday, gathering with friends and enjoying some nice vino. I’ve gathered this mix of American samples I’ve received, mostly from California, that would make nice accompaniments to any summer grill-out.

Oregon’s Troon delivers a crunchy, delish Piquette worth checking out. I’ve got a few whites to beat the heat, and two bottles from The Mill Keeper, multi-vintage wines from Napa’s Gamble that offer a fun, juicy, crowd-friendly appeal but spot complexity as well. And for any grilled meats, I’ve got a nice mix of Napa reds from the likes of Frank Family, Grieve, Gamble and Cliff Lede.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2021 Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench Piquette - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Medium copper color. A chalky, spicy nose with lots of red apple peel and sour cherries, with white and red flowers. The palate is zesty and light with fine bubbles and crisp acidity and some sweet red apple and raspberry fruit. Notes of talc and chalk-infused goodness mix with some hay and white pepper. Really fun, crunchy and fresh, a perfect summer quaffer, and I love the precise and clear nature of this wine. This is made using pressed grape skins from white and rose wines (Vermentino, Marsanne and some from their Tannat rose). Their third and best yet. (89 points)

2021 Cliff Lede Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $32
Light yellow color. Gorgeous nose of lime, orange peel, guava and white peach, infused with chalk and sea salt, and it sports some honey, yellow flower and banana elements. Crisp acidity on the palate but a delightfully creamy texture, and the balance is on point. Peach, orange peel and lime fruit play well with minerals, chalk dusty, mountain stream, with complexities of honey, clove, some nougat. Deep yet so lively, this will age nicely. Includes 9% Sémillon and 1% Sauvignon Vert, fermented in a mix of French oak, steel and concrete eggs. (91 points)

2020 Chalk Hill Chardonnay Estate Bottled Chalk Hill - USA, California, Sonoma County, Chalk Hill
SRP: $45
Light yellow color. The nose shows yellow apples and juicy pears, with a mix of honey, white flowers, nuanced graham cracker and pie crust elements. Creamy and rich on the palate but sports moderate acidity, and a delicious mix of lemon curd, yellow apples and cantaloupe. Notes of graham cracker, saltine, honey and yellow flowers and complexity and nuance. Rich and delicious but fresh with a nice salty finish. Native yeast fermentation, full malo, aged 10 months in 35% new French oak. (90 points)

2020 Metz Road Pinot Noir Riverview - USA, California, Central Coast, Monterey County
SRP: $36
Vibrant ruby color. The nose shows tangy raspberries, ripe cherries, with rose petals, some cola, rhubarb, and nuanced earthy-clay elements. The palate is juicy but crisp with a fresh and focused appeal, dusty tannins and lively acidity. The raspberry and red apple fruit is crunchy and juicy, and tossed with a delightful blend of black tea, white and black pepper, oregano and sage, some nuanced cola and rhubarb. A lot of fresh, chilled, red-fruited goodness of a Pinot – and for the price? One to seek out if you like that nuanced, fresher, crunchy style. (90 points)

N.V. Gamble Family Vineyards Chardonnay The Mill Keeper - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $28
Rich yellow color. Nice peachy, honeyed, ripe apple nose with notes of lemon curd and yellow flowers. The palate shows a cool creamy but vibrant mix with flavors of peach, lemon curd and baked yellow apples. Notes of nougat, peanut shell, cinnamon stick, even some chalk dust and limestone elements. Fun, fresh, honeyed, quite complex. (88 points)

N.V. Gamble Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon The Mill Keeper - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $35
Medium purple color. The nose shows plums and roasted figs and raisins with some violets, blackberry sauce and pepper. Smooth and chewy on the palate but lively acidity with a nice core of red and black currants and blackberries, figs. Notes of pepper, anise, coffee, some savory-beefy tones. Tons of fun, ripe but not overdone, with these cool beef jerky and spice tones that make it campfire-friendly and crushable. (89 points)

2019 Frank Family Vineyards Zinfandel - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $45
Vibrant purple color. Super jammy and lush on the nose with inviting raspberry, strawberry, with red licorice, rose and violet petals, nuances of savory pepper and leather with clove and warm black tea. The palate is suave and juicy with smooth tannins and plenty of tart wild raspberry with mulled blackberry fruit. The mesquite, tobacco and sage elements add a lot of nuance. Any grilled meats or veg, this beckons. Vibrant, spicy, delicious. (91 points)

2018 Grieve Family Winery Double Eagle Napa Valley - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $89
Deep purple color. Deep and dark aromas of blackberry and currants, with lots of pepper, tobacco and anise, notes if incense, coffee, stony, rocky elements - a lot going on here and air coaxes out all sorts of nuances. The acidity is really lively and crisp, deep tannins with solid grip, supporting the core of tart currant and blackberry fruit. The earth, black tea, violets, coconut shavings and dark chocolate add a lot to enjoy and ponder. Delightful stuff, balanced well, really has aging potential too. Cab with 9% Merlot, aged 20 months in 60% new French oak (93 points)

2018 Gamble Family Vineyards Paramount - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $90
Gorgeous purple color. The nose exudes ripeness, freshness and savory elements, with rich waves of black fruit, topped in sage, smoked meats, roasted red pepper and earth – lovely nuance and complexity. Full with suave tannins on the palate, deep and generous texture but balanced with vibrant acidity. Blueberry, blackberry, pure and suave fruit, mixed with dark chocolate, coffee, earth, black pepper, roasted red pepper, and there are these graphite and mineral undertones. Really could use five years or a solid decant to start showing its full potential, but this is lovely. 33% Cab Franc, 32% Cab Sauv, 31% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot, aged 20 months in 42% new French oak. (93 points)

2019 Cliff Lede Cabernet Sauvignon Rock Block Series Roundabout Midnight - USA, California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District
SRP: $110
Vibrant purple color. Deep, lush, inviting aromas of currants and plums, tangy and dark, laced with tobacco, eucalyptus, mint, pepper, some leather, cocoa and vanilla – just a lot of awesome scents. Rich with solid structure but the tannins have these refined edges and the acidity is surprisingly vibrant. A core of tart currants and dark plum fruit, accented with black tea, black licorice, coffee grounds, tobacco, and these lovely graphite and mineral accents. Age this a while, but it is suave, fresh and beautiful stuff. 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc, aged 21 months in 74% new French oak. (94 points)