Saturday, July 29, 2023

California wines to beat the heat

Me, cooling down in the Blue Ridge Mountains
Apparently, August 4 is National White Wine Day. And considering the seemingly endless heat across most of the country, the timing sure seems right.

It’s 96 and humid where I am in the Mid-Atlantic, and I know it is a lot worse in other regions. I honestly can’t even think about red wine at the moment, so let’s dive into some delicious California white wines.

From a shockingly good $15 Chard to Chalk Hill and Carneros, this is a Chardonnay heavy sampling, but there’s a lot of diversity in here. Chalk Hill delivers three intriguing offerings, and I have a few from well-known names like Sonoma-Cutrer and Ferrari-Carano. If you haven’t heard of Lange Twins or Bouchaine, these two producers make some well-balanced Chardonnays at reasonable price points. Bouchaine’s winemaker Chris Kajani makes more than a dozen Chards, and his skills show.

To top things off, I have two unique white wines from Napa’s Mira Winery. I’ve long been a fan of their reds – the Malbec and Cabernet Franc are exquisite – but these two wines are new to me: a skin-fermented Cabernet Franc (OK, so it’s not technically a “white wine”) and a Sauvignon Gris that’s perfect for high-end summer sipping.

These wines were received as samples. The Chardonnays were tasted single-blind, while the Mira wines were tasted sighted.

2021 Harken Chardonnay Barrel FermentedUSA, California
SRP: $15
Deep yellow color. A ripe nose of lemon curd, yellow apples, and pear butter, with notes of almond, graham cracker, saltines, and some tropical flowers. The palate is juicy and ripe with yellow apples and pears, and medium acidity, which helps it stay bright and balance out the richer tones. Honey, graham cracker, and white tea notes add some fun vibes. There’s some flinty, floral complexity, too. A fun, surprisingly complex value Chardonnay that tastes way more “real” than most Chardonnays in this price point. Aged eight months in 50/50 American/French oak. (88 points)

2022 Chalk Hill Chardonnay Sonoma CoastUSA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $20
Light yellow color. Rich pears and yellow apples with almond, honey, graham cracker, with fresher tones of white and yellow flowers, chalk dust. The palate shows a delightful creaminess but refreshing acidity, all balanced nicely. Juicy lemon, yellow apples, creamy pears, along with flinty, seashell vibes, and nuances of almond skin, honeycomb, and peanut brittle. Deep but vibrant, balanced, a delightful Sonoma Coast Chardonnay. (89 points)

2021 Chalk Hill Chardonnay EstateUSA, California, Sonoma County, Chalk Hill
SRP: $52
Rich yellow color. Juicy aromas of white peach, yellow apples, and pear butter, along with inviting tones of cinnamon and almond cake, with notes of honey, dandelion, and white flowers, too. A creamy, rich texture with bright acidity keeps things balanced wonderfully, and I love the flavors of yellow apples and pears, some nectarine. There is a pleasant mix of honey, graham cracker, sea salt, with honeysuckle and some nougat. There’s a tingly, mineral-laden finish. Aged 11 months in 42% new French oak. (90 points)

2021 Chalk Hill Chardonnay FeltaUSA, California, Sonoma County, Chalk Hill
SRP: $90
Light yellow color. The nose exudes lemons, pears, green apples, with nuanced tones of sea salt, cinnamon crumb cake, shaved ginger, and mineral water. The palate sports an invitingly creamy texture, balanced with focused acidity, and a rich and juicy appeal with yellow apples, kiwi, and lemon, along with complex tones of honeyed white tea, almond croissant, yellow flowers, and all sorts of mineral and saline nuances. Delicious and precise. All maloactic fermentation, aged 15 months in 73% new French oak. (93 points)

2020 Bouchaine Chardonnay EstateUSA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $36
Deep yellow color. The nose exudes ripe yellow plums and pears, mixed with cinnamon, biscuits and honey, some graham cracker, and the richer tones are balanced with these limestone and crushed rock tones. Rich texture but the acidity is crisp and the balance is on point. Yellow apples, lemon curd, orange peel, the fruit is backed up by nuances of graham cracker, peanut shell, honeycomb, honeyed tea. Underneath, there are these flinty, mineral essences that finish clean and add a lot of complexity and enjoyment. (91 points)

2021 Ferrari-Carano Chardonnay Tre TerreUSA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $45
Medium yellow color. The nose shows a deep but lively mix of creamy pears, orange peels, drizzled with lime, along with honey, almond, some graham cracker, with tones of white flowers and flint. This has a delightfully rich texture, balanced nicely with lively acidity, and juicy, creamy fruit (pears and yellow apples) with some orange peel tossed in. There’s a nice crushed shell and mineral mix underneath that tingles the palate and lasts long on the finish, contrasting well with the honeyed, almond vibes. Delicious, complex, rich but nuanced Russian River Chardonnay, aged 15 months in 2/3 new French oak. (91 points)

2021 Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay Dutton RanchUSA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $42
Deep yellow. The nose shows a tropical dessert of yellow pears and lemon curd, with pie crust, nougat, crumb cake, and some helpful doses of salt and chalk. The palate is juicy and fun, has nuanced acidity that keeps things going forward, and solid complexity. Flavors of ripe yellow apples, orange creamsicle, and pineapple mix with tones of buttered biscuits, toasted oak, and almond skin. A deep, suave, creamy style but it stays vibrant and you can’t deny the deliciousness. (89 points)

2021 LangeTwins Chardonnay Merrill VineyardUSA, California, Central Valley, Clarksburg
SRP: $25
Medium yellow color. An expressive nose of lemon curd, pineapple, ripe peach, along with lots of honey, whipped butter, and subtle talc and mineral vibes. Generous texture, moderate acidity, it has a plush and creamy feel with mango, ripe yellow pear, some green apples. Flavors of whipped honey, ginger snaps, some corn husk, and there’s a cool mix of talc, minerals, and quinine. Interesting flavors and style – fun stuff, quite complex, solid value! Aged 12 months in used oak. (89 points)

2021 Mira Winery Ovum AureumUSA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $85
Light yellow color. Aromas are just beautiful and so inviting, with fresh tones of orange peel, guava, lemon zest, along with chalky, limestone, mineral-infused goodness, with flinty, stony vibes and wild herbs and white flowers. The palate has a beautiful textural depth, and brisk acidity, and the balance is impressive. Pure fruit (yellow apples, nectarine, juicy raspberry and red apple). The non-fruit elements are exciting and woven together so well – stony minerals, mountain stream, limestone and chalk dust, almond skin, white flowers. This is rocking now but also has aging potential. Wow. All Sauvignon Gris aged in egg-shaped old oak barrels. (94 points)

2021 Mira Winery Cabernet Franc “Franc Blanc”USA, California, Napa Valley, Yountville
SRP: $65
Gorgeous pale copper color. So fresh on the nose, with this crunchy white cherry, tangy strawberry, with notes of watermelon rind, spicy white pepper, nettle, basil, and some chalk dust – really exciting. The palate shows gorgeous texture, with racy acidity, and complex, delicious fruit (yellow plum, tart raspberry, yellow apples). There is a complex, intriguing mix of sea salt, minerals, mountain streams, along with nuanced tones of hay, white pepper, basil, there is a lot to parse through. The complexity, mouthfeel, this is Mira doing their thing – I wasn’t aware this wine existed, but it’s a special wine for sure. All Cab Franc whole-cluster pressed. (94 points)

2022 Bouchaine Vin Gris of Pinot Noir Estate VineyardUSA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $29
Light watermelon color. The aromas pop with crunchy red apple, white cherries, bright raspberries, along with white pepper, wildflowers and wild mint. The palate has a salty, punchy appeal, beautiful briskness and tart vibes but solid textural complexity and weight, too. White cherries, wild raspberries, tart red apples, the fruit is blended well with tones of daisies, celery seed, chalk dust, some flinty-mineral essence. Beautiful mouthfeel and finish, a lot of personality and vibrancy. 85% whole-cluster and 15% saignée Pinot Noir. (91 points)

Monday, July 24, 2023

The delicious diversity in Italian rosato

It is really hot in a lot of areas of the country right now, and I hope you all are staying cool. I don’t handle heat and humidity well, and these days I’m far more likely to reach for sparkling water than a glass of red wine. But this weekend, it’ll be pink wine time. I recently tasted through some Italian rosatos that are perfect for this time of year.

Italian rosato is a huge and diverse category of wines, as each region has its own indigenous grapes, climate, winemaking culture, and history. This week’s selections represent a drop in the bucket in terms of what’s out there, but the deliciousness and complexity is great across the board. Most of these wines are imported by Dalla Terra, and the quality-to-price ratio is crazy high. If you’re having a party, enjoy Italian food, or just want to have a nice tasting with friends, picking up a few of these is a great way to parse through the nuances of each grape. It’s a lot of fun to compare and contrast the mouthfeel, flavor, and overall vibe of these wines.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted

2022 Masseria Li Veli Negroamaro Rosato “Torrerose” - Italy, Puglia, Salento IGT
SRP: $15
Medium watermelon color. The nose has a really interesting spicy but inviting kick, with green herbs, white pepper, sliced cucumbers, basil, on top of honeydew and watermelon, white cherries and crunchy red apples. The palate is racy but shows a pleasantly creamy texture, with lovely balance and flavors of watermelon, McIntosh apples, wild strawberries. The fruit is mixed together nicely with tones of salt brine, celery seed, mind, while some minerals and crushed limestone elements really give the wine verve and personality. For the price, there’s an awesome amount of flavor and complexity in this Negroamaro Rosato. Easy half-case buy for summer parties (or any time of year, rather). (90 points)

2022 Masseria Li Veli Susumaniello Rosato “Askos”  - Italy, Puglia, Salento IGT
SRP: $25
Pale copper color. So spicy and fresh on the nose, with white cherries, watermelon rind, and tangy strawberry, tossed with saline, basil, chalk dust, and dandelion. The palate is vibrant and crunchy with a nice textural weight, deep but vibrant. Red apples and white cherry fruit mixes with bracing minerals and mountain stream vibes – really exciting and inviting. There’s a lot of spicy basil, nettle, celery seed tones, mixed with some honey and white flowers. Fun, fresh, but complex – Salento rosato is quite a thing! Made from Susumaniello. (90 points)

2022 Tenuta Sant'Antonio Rondinella Rosato “Scaia”  - Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT
SRP: $15
Light salmon color. Bright and salty with lemon, quince, kiwi, along with bright flowers, celery seed, honeysuckle, a pleasantly fresh and floral display. Crisp and perfumed on the palate with flavors of watermelon rind, lemon zest, white cherries, and the fruit is tossed with floral perfume, honeysuckle, talc. Fun and fresh but has a lot of complexity and focus, with these flavors of raspberry tea, honeyed, mint tea on the finish. Wow, what a screaming value, estate grown Rondinella rosato – one to seek out for a case buy! (89 points)

2022 Garofoli Montepulciano Rosato “Komaros”  - Italy, Marche, Marche IGT

SRP: $14
Pale copper color. A breezy, floral, perfumed display on the nose, with peaches and limes, white and yellow flowers, some watermelon rind and lemon zest. The palate is brisk and salty with a bright, hot weather-friendly vibe, and flavors of tangy white cherries, wild raspberries, and red apple fruit. Notes of white flowers, perfume, chalk dust, and some wild green herbs add complexity. So fun and food-friendly, made from Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. (88 points)

2022 Capezzana Carmignano Rosato “Vin Ruspo” - Italy, Tuscany, Carmignano
SRP: $19
Deep copper color. The nose pops with strawberries, red cherries, and crunchy red delicious apples, with tones of slate, yellow flowers, honeycomb, and dandelion. The palate has a nice creamy texture and crisp acidity and all sorts of minerals, rocks, mountain stream, and chalk. Juicy red apples, raspberries, cranberry relish fruit mixes well with a minty, white peppery vibe. Lovely honeyed depth and all sorts of floral complexities buried in here. Delicious and complex rosato based on Sangiovese with some Cab Sauv and Canaiolo. (90 points)

2022 Masciarelli Rosato Colline Teatine IGT - Italy, Abruzzi, Colline Teatine IGT
SRP: $14
Juicy watermelon color. Flavors of ripe raspberries, red cherries, this has a creamy aromatic depth with juicy peaches and white tea, some dusty minerals and white pepper. The palate shows a crunchy, bright display with tangy white cherries, raspberries, with watermelon rind and lemon zest. Bright tones of wildflowers, basil, along with some flinty, salty vibes. Lots of fun, and surprising complexity and depth for a wine of this price point. Would be a great by-the-glass Montepulciano rosato. (88 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Tuesday, July 4, 2023

Wine across America

I can’t believe it’s July. This summer is speeding past, but I’m making plans to take advantage of the weather and time with friends and family. I wish you all a great summer break, wherever and whenever you find it. And as the Fourth of July approaches, it’s a good time to highlight some diverse wines from all across America.

Long-time readers know I’m a big Virginia wine fan, and recently wrote about the Governor’s Cup winners. I’m back with a producer I’ve talked about before, and will do again, because they’re great: Stinson Vineyards. They make some Virginia gems and are not afraid to experiment, from Tannat rosé to skin-ferment Rkatsiteli, I find anything with their label worth buying.

From sea to shining sea on the West Coast, I have some delightfully zippy and coastal Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from Fort Ross Seaview Winery that brings serious value to the table. And Fiddlehead Cellars has two seriously complex summer-friendly wines from the Central Coast.

Napa’s Newton comes out swinging with some heavy hitters. Their unfiltered Chardonnay is a regional classic. And the single vineyard Cabernets do an incredible job of showcasing the diversity of Napa regions through their different properties. Taken together, these wines represent a celebration of Napa Cabernet and the varied, exquisite sites where it thrives. The 2019 and 2018 vintages are both singing, and these elegant Cabs would make great gifts or cellar stockers.

From the sun-roasted, high elevation Sonoran Desert comes Aridus, an Arizona-based winery that puts out solid Southwest wines at very reasonable prices. I’m a huge fan of Arizona wines, and this producer offers a nice intro into the state’s industry.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

California

2022 Fiddlehead Cellars Pinot Noir Pink Fiddle Fiddlestix Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
SRP: $32
Deep watermelon color. Ripe and vibrant on the nose with white peaches, red apples, watermelon, with fresh, floral tones of lilies, grassy meadow, crushed shells and white pepper. The palate shows a creamy depth of texture and lip-smacking acidity. Beautiful flavors of watermelon, orange slices, white cherry and peach. The non-fruit nuances are great – minerals and stones, rushing mountain stream, with notes of fennel, hay, white pepper, dried flowers. A beautifully complex and focused single-vineyard Pinot Noir pink that offers deliciousness and a unique vibe. (91 points)

2022 Fiddlehead Cellars Sauvignon Blanc La Presa Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Los Olivos District
SRP: $32
Pale lemon color. So juicy on the nose, with guava, white peach, and papaya, along with fresh lime zest, sliced flower stems, wild green onion, chalk dust. The palate is so crunchy and fresh, a bright appeal but a pleasantly creamy texture adds to the experience, with flavors of yellow apples, papaya, and white peach. It has these racy undertones of chalk dust, minerals, saline, and plenty of perfume and nuanced white pepper and green herbs. Lively and complex, this is a gem of a Sauv Blanc from a special site (La Presa Vineyard). Stainless steel, no maloactic fermentation. (92+ points)

2022 Ancient Peaks Sauvignon Blanc - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Santa Margarita Ranch
SRP: $18
Light yellow color. Aromatically, this pops with flavors of nectarine, guava, and white peach, with a big dose of tropical flowers, dandelion, hints of honey and sliced cucumber – love it. In the mouth, this wine has delightful texture, rich but balanced with moderate acidity, and juicy flavors of cantaloupe, guava, and orange peel. Nuances of yellow and white flowers, some honey, and salty, flinty notes on the finish. For summer outdoor gatherings, this would be perfect. Serious value alert in this dynamic, balanced Paso Sauvignon Blanc. (90 points)

2021 Geyser Peak Sauvignon Blanc
- USA, California
SRP: $13
Light yellow color. Peachy keen on the nose with guava and banana, with tropical flowers, orange marmalade, some chalky tones. The palate is medium-bodied and creamy with moderate acidity and a fun, summery feel. Creamy and fruity with peaches, guava, and lime zest, mixed with yellow flowers and honey. A fun, crowd-pleasing Sauv Blanc that has a lot of personality and complexity for the price. (86 points)

2021 Newton Chardonnay Unfiltered - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $60
Unabashed yellow color. The nose sports richer tones of honeycomb, ginger snap, whipped honey, with brighter tones of white flowers and dandelions, along with limes, lemon curd, and yellow apple fruit. Deep texture on the palate with racy acidity and a pretty display of yellow apples, golden pears, drizzled with limes. There are a lot of chalky, salty vines in here, and the wine maintains this clear presence throughout, with notes of mountain stream and minerals that accent the honey and nougat nuances. Delicious, balanced, beautiful. Barrel-fermented and aged 10 months in 25% new French oak. (92 points)

N.V. Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay Simply Cutrer - USA, California
SRP: $20 – 4/250ml cans
Light yellow color. A lively nose of pineapples, lemons, orange peel, bright and sweet tropical fruits, with notes of celery seed, honey, and yellow flowers. The palate has medium acidity and a nice creaminess with a steely, crisp appeal. Crushable, medium-bodied with flavors of lemon, green and yellow apples, and pineapple. Notes of crushed sweet tarts and chalk add a nice kick. Fresh, enjoyable vibes in this canned Chardonnay that would be a good call for summer camping or outdoor enjoyment. (87 points)

2021 Fort Ross Winery Chardonnay Sea Slopes - USA, California, Sonoma County, Fort Ross - Seaview
SRP: $30
Deep yellow color. The aromas show a pleasantly balanced blend between richer tones (honey, nougat, apricot, ginger, almond) with brighter ones (white flowers, sea salt, crushed limestone). The palate shows rich texture and racy acidity, making for a juicy but lip-smacking Chard with flavors of apricot and yellow apple. Notes of chalk, flint, almond shell, ginger snaps, and honey add complexity. Rich but nuanced, this would please many a Chardonnay-loving palate. Aged eight months in neutral French oak. (90 points)

2021 Fort Ross Winery Pinot Noir Sea Slopes - USA, California, Sonoma County, Fort Ross - Seaview
SRP: $35
Medium ruby color. Such a fresh, floral nose with tangy red plums, wild raspberries, bright strawberries, along with complex notes of rhubarb, rose petals, deep earth, violets. The palate shows moderate but chewy tannins and vibrant acidity, which makes for a lovely, balanced wine, with flavors of zesty cranberry relish and juicy black cherries. There are a host of savory but vibrant accents in this wine (rhubarb, spiced tea, anise). Fun and fresh but serious complexity and balance, not to mention value. Aged nine months in 20% new French oak. (91 points)

2018 Newton Cabernet Sauvignon Mt. Veeder - USA, California, Napa Valley, Mt. Veeder
SRP: $210
Dark purple color. A deep core of blackberries, currants, wild blueberries on the nose, along with rich soil, graphite, charcoal, cedar, some anise and chewing tobacco – a lot to go through and enjoy. Full and grippy but the acidity is delightfully tangy and keeps this wine so energetic. A dark mix of tangy blackberries, currants, and blueberries, along with complex notes of pencil shavings, coffee grounds, mocha, black tea, and there are complex notes of rocks and minerals to enjoy. A long life ahead of this one. All Cab, aged 18 months in 65% new French oak. (93 points)

2018 Newton Cabernet Sauvignon Spring Mountain District - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $210
Beautifully deep purple. The nose has such a lovely mix of fresh/tangy with deeper, darker elements – juicy black cherries, roasted figs, tangy wild blueberries, the fruit blends so well with graphite, anise, tar, stony, herbal vibes. A solid frame of grippy tannins with refined edges, balanced wonderfully with fresh acidity. The black cherry and tangy currant fruit is lively and focused, and laced with a host of complex earthy, stony elements – minerals, graphite, smashed rocks, with savory black pepper and mushroom glaze notes. Complex and beautiful, this needs a serious decant or to be forgotten in the cellar for a while to show its full potential. All Cabernet, aged 18 months in 65% new French oak. (95 points)

2018 Newton Cabernet Sauvignon Yountville - USA, California, Napa Valley, Yountville
SRP: $210
Lush, dark purple. On the nose, I get a deep compote of blueberries, plum sauce, tart black currants, mixed with loamy earth, a lot of stony and mineral essence, with dried violets, iron, tobacco, spiced black tea and clove – wow, give this serious swirling or a decant. Grippy but suave on the palate, lovely balance between well-build tannins and lively acidity. Dark and tangy, with pure fruit (black cherry, tart currant, plums, blueberries), blended expertly with pepper, anise, nuanced herbal vibes, spiced tea, graphite and minerals. Deep but effortless feel, and the finish is so long and lovely. This has so much more to show in a decade, but what a beaut. 100% Cab, aged 18 months in 65% new French oak. (95 points)

2019 Newton The Puzzle - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $135
Deep purple color. The aromas show a rich tapestry of figs, plum compote, black cherries, along with savory tones of spiced tea, black pepper, anise, with cocoa and some roasted herb tones – really needs swirling or a decant to get these beautiful tones going. The palate is full but fresh with solid but supple tannins and really fresh acidity. The fruit is a mix of crunchy black currant, roasted figs, and juicy plums, gorgeous concentration, with nuances of black tea, menthol, graphite, flinty mineral tones. This is a long ager for sure, but has such freshness that it makes it enjoyable young as well. Cabernet Sauvignon with 8% Cab Franc, 7% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot, and 1% Grenache, aged 18 months in 50% new French oak. (94 points)

Arizona

2019 Aridus Viognier - USA, Arizona, Cochise County
SRP: $40
Rich yellow color. Aromatically tropical but with these floral, succulent accents: pineapple, peaches, lemon curd, with notes of tropical flowers, honey, graham cracker and some slight white pepper and sea salt. So fun on the palate, a creamy texture with a waxy appeal, but it stays lively with medium acidity. Flavors of orange marmalade, yellow pears, and lemon cake mix with notes of orange blossom, dandelion, with honey and some white tea. This wine was fermented and aged 14 months in sandstone jars (which is very interesting). A unique and clear expression of Arizona Viognier that is getting more expressive with age. (90 points)

2019 Aridus Tempranillo - USA, Arizona
SRP: $50
Vibrant plum color. Lovely aromas of cranberry sauce, ripe black and red cherries, along with a cool mix of savory tones, like tar, pepper, potpourri, creosote. The palate shows smooth tannins and medium acidity, which supports a mix of gushing black cherry and plum fruit, ripe but nuanced. There are a lot of interesting spicy, meaty, peppery tones, with tar, smoky earth, dried roses. A really fun and accessible style, super juicy and easy-drinking but it sports solid complexity as well. Delicious example of AZ Tempranillo. Includes 14% Graciano, aged 28 months in oak. (90 points)

2019 Aridus Syrah - USA, Arizona, Cochise County
SRP: $60
Medium purple color. The nose explodes with roasted figs, currant jam, cherry jam, along with complex notes of smoky earth, sage, pepper, clove, dried rose petals, eucalyptus. On the palate, this is suave and ripe with smooth tannins and medium acidity. Roasted plums and figs mix with tangy cherries, and the fruit is mixed with nuances of white pepper, warm clay, desert herbs, and black pepper. I’ve grilled steak in the Arizona desert with a different vintage of this wine, and I highly recommend it, or wherever you’re grilling. 100% Syrah, aged 30 months in oak. (90 points)

Virginia

2022 Stinson Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc
- USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $25
Medium yellow color. Smells like a burst of guava and white peach, drizzled with lime, topped in sudsy floral brightness, white pepper, fresh basil and sliced cucumber. The palate shows waves of textural depth and pristine acid, with flinty mineral tones. Creamy yellow apples mixed with crunchy green pears and lime, and the floral, herbal, and saline complexity sings. A consistently exciting and clear Virginia Sauvignon Blanc, and this vintage keeps that going. Virginia doesn’t have value? This wine says otherwise. Fermented in a mix of concrete and stainless steel. (91 points)

2022 Stinson Vineyards Tannat Rosé - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $23
Ripe watermelon color. The wine smells of bright red fruits and floral perfume, with red apple and wild raspberry, along with rose petals, floral perfume, and notes of hay, celery seed, sea salt, spicy white pepper. Texturally, this is plush but bright, with juicy texture and a streak of minerals. Flavors of white cherry, crunchy red apple, and watermelon blend well with mint, spiced white tea, and flowers, chalk dust. Classic flavors and feel. A reliably delicious Virginia rosé that continues the streak of excellence. (90 points)

2019 Stinson Vineyards Meritage - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $41Deep ruby color. The palate is a ripe and tangy compote of raspberries, wild blueberries, black cherries, with menthol, earth, clove, anise, all sorts of cool smoky, tar, spicy, violet vibes. Upon sipping, this wine is ripe but nuanced with solid structure, fine-edged tannins, and fresh acidity – each sip is lip-smacking. The black cherry and currant fruit is mixed with spiced cranberry relish, roasted chestnut, dusty earth, tobacco, warm clay – lots of cool things to parse through. A Virginia Meritage worth seeking out for sure: 38% Cabernet Franc, 33% Merlot, 17% Petit Verdot, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon. (91 points)

Sunday, June 25, 2023

Explore Virginia through some of its best wines

Sunrise over Shenandoah National Park 

Virginia is for lovers, they say. And I’m a total Virginia lover. Growing up as a kid on the Jersey Shore, with family connections in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains, Virginia was always a wild, exciting place to visit. We’d climb mountains, scramble on rocks, jump off waterfalls, catch bass, fend off ticks and ground wasps.

Later in life, when I fell in love with wine and moved to the DC region, I instinctively went to Virginia looking for wines and adventure. I’ve enjoyed following the region’s growth and evolution over these past 15 years. And I’ve been lucky enough to explore Virginia through long drives, hikes, climbs, camping trips, and other adventures.

When it comes to wineries, it should be obvious to anyone who has been paying attention that Virginia is home to some world-class producers. The scene is dynamic, with new winemakers or shifting teams making waves, while to the older wineries who helped establish this wine region are sticking around and continuing their legacy.

I recently tasted through the big winners at the Virginia Governor’s Cup, something I’ve been doing for a decade now. This prestigious competition has been judged people I respect, including some friends of mine, and I always find the top 12 provide a good overview of what’s currently up in the Virginia wine scene. This year (with more than 600 wines submitted) was no different, as the selections are really nice.

But there’s also a glaring trend worth pointing out – Petit Verdot taking charge. I’ve been stoked on Virginia Petit Verdot for many years. More and more, Virginia winemakers are making varietal wines from this traditional blending grape. And I’m a fan of this trend. The best Virginia Petit Verdots have this racy acidity that helps balance the grippy tannins. I do love how a grape like Merlot and Malbec can soften and add some padding to Petit Verdot’s sharp edges, but when done right, this grape shines on its own. Like the rare background band member that can, at the right place and time, break out into an awesome solo career.

Petit Manseng is another grape I love in Virginia, and have written about for many years. This grape does so well in the Commonwealth, and can be made in such a diversity of styles. We also have some a delicious Italian white variety that has found a home in which to thrive here in Virginia. And Virginia Meritage? Seriously worth checking out.

If you haven’t yet explored Virginia wines, the ones in this report will give you some good guideposts. But it’s beautiful country out there, and the best way to dig in is to visit. These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

Monday, June 5, 2023

Wine Reviews: Father's Day selections

If you’re a wine-loving dad, you know your palate best. Or if you’re buying a gift for a wine-loving dad, you likely know their palate better than anyone. But in advance of Father’s Day, I’ve selected a wide range of wines that I think dads can nerd out about, enjoy, and pair with whatever you’re up to.

I’m a huge fan of Austrian Rieslings and Gruners, and I really enjoyed geeking out over a quartet of wines from Domane Wachau. They’re all iconic single-vineyard wines from 2021, made by an historic producer that purely express their grape and terroir. And, especially given the quality, they’re priced incredibly well – what dad doesn’t like saving money? Picking up a mixed six-pack of single-vineyards could give you a great tasting lineup for a party with some summer seafood or grilled chicken and veg.

Also included are some delicious reds for grill-outs and gatherings, and I highlight some serious values. From a fascinating producer in New Mexico, Vara, who blends Spanish and California grapes, to delightful values from Chile and Argentina, there should be something in here you’ll enjoy.

Lastly, I want to highlight some Sonoma Pinots (and a Chard) because, well, they’re just great. I visited Sonoma in April with my brother and his family, and we dads had a great time cooking with local ingredients and tasting local wines. And when I’m cooking (which is usually the case in my house), and I’m opening Sonoma Pinot – everyone is happy.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted, except for the Wachau white wines, which were tasted single-blind.


Wachau White Wines

2021 Domäne Wachau Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Ried Liebenberg - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
SRP: $27
Vibrant yellow color. The aromas are spritely with lemon, green apples, guava, topped with rushing notes of limestone, oyster shells, and nuances of celery seed, mint, it all gets the palate salivating. There’s a lovely creaminess to the mouthfeel on this wine, but the acidity is so crisp, with delicious crunchy fruit, limes, lemon, green apples. A razor-like focus, with rushing mineral intensity, talc, crushed stones, along with spicy herbal elements that accentuate the overall package. This is a beautiful young Gruner at a great price, and if you’re looking to get deeper into this grape or region, this is a perfect place to start. (91 points IJB)

2021 Domäne Wachau Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Ried Kellerberg - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
SRP: $50
Rich yellow color. So many stony, mineral, oyster shell vibes here (love it), with generous but zesty pineapple and lemon, and there are all these cool tones that come out with air: green onion, bread crumbs, hints of basil, yellow flowers – just a lot going on. Racy acidity frames the wine well, as a generous texture and beautiful fruit play their game (guava, papaya, drizzled in lime). I get a complex host of crushed shells, chalk dust, flinty, mineral, stony elements. And there are these white tea, mint, shaved ginger nuances as well. Beautiful stuff and a long-ager for sure, as everything is deep but balanced. (93+ points IJB)

2021 Domäne Wachau Riesling Federspiel Ried Bruck - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
SRP: $27
Medium yellow color. The nose pops with sweet guava, fresh green apples, and limes, along with crushed rocks, shells, a sweet honeyed tone but the wine still smells so fresh and inviting. The palate has bright acidity and a bed of sweet yellow apple, white peach, and kiwi fruit. Balanced and fresh with a nice mix of crushed sweet tarts, chalk dust, limestone, mountain riverbed with stones and all that good stuff. Crushable and delicious right now, but has a lot to think about and parse through as well. From a very steep site, this is a precise expression with a lot to love. (90 points IJB)

2021 Domäne Wachau Riesling Smaragd Ried Achleiten - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
SRP: $51
Medium yellow color. A bright and inviting nose that shows a bouncy mix of yellow apples, kiwi, quince, along with fresh tennis balls, mountain stream down slate rocks, crushed schist, with these honey and almond skin tones (seriously, a lot of cool stuff happening here). Pure sums it up nicely on the palate, as this just has a vibrant, clean, focused appeal, with flavors of limes, papayas, crunchy green apples. Complex elements of honey, clover, stony minerals, and flint add complexity and they tingle the tongue on the finish. This has a long life ahead of it – what a beaut! (93 points IJB)

Sonoma Pinots and Chards

2020 Papapietro Perry Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $61
Light ruby color. Beautiful aromas of fresh strawberries, red cherries, crunchy red apple peel, along with fallen leaves, tobacco, autumnal vibes, dusty and peppery vibes – love it. The palate shows vibrancy with dusty tannins and a balanced feel, with strawberries, raspberries, juicy summer plums, with pepper and cranberry relish. An elegant feel with nuances of earth, spice, clove, fresh garden soil. I’d love to see what this does in a few years or with a roast duck dish. Aged 11 months in 1/3 new French oak. (92 points IJB)

2020 Papapietro Perry Pinot Noir Russian River Valley - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $61
Medium ruby color. Aromas of jammy raspberries and strawberries, with an inviting floral, earthy, herbal tones (dried roses, tilled soil, rosemary, fresh basil), a deep but bright aromatic display. The palate expresses such freshness and vibrancy, with dusty/moderate tannins and bright acidity, along with tart red and black cherries, with raspberries and pomegranate. Notes of floral perfume, clove, tobacco, rhubarb and white pepper add complexity, and I get these lovely earth and leather tones, too. Deep but focused and lively, expressive now but will show wonders in a few years. So much good RRV Pinot for the price. Aged 11 months in 1/3 new French oak. (92 points IJB)  

2021 Gary Farrell Pinot Noir Russian River Selection - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $45
Deep ruby color. Such a warm, enticing aromatic display of bright raspberries and deep, mulled black cherries, along with nuances of rhubarb and cola, hints of roses, violets, white pepper, warm clay. The palate has this crisp, crushable feel, but supple tannins and the deep fruit and complexity offer a lot to parse through and enjoy. Lively acidity plays off of nuances of earth, dried rose petals, paprika and pepper, warm clay. Classic Sonoma Pinot goodness, this is smooth and deep and hits the spot, per usual from Gary Farrell. Will age nicely and show a lot more in a few years. Aged 13 months in 40% new French oak. (92 points IJB)  

2021 Gary Farrell Chardonnay Russian River Selection - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $35
Bright but deep yellow color. The nose bursts with orange peel and fresh lemons, yellow pears, mixed with honeycomb, almond skin, and notes of talc and crushed shells. The palate sports a beautiful creaminess – contrast that with racy, chalky acidity and a salty, pure, focused appeal. The fruit is generous, with chunks of pineapple and yellow apples, but it stays lively and lip-smacking. Notes of sea spray, honey, chalk dust, almond, they play so well together. Gary Farrell really knows how to translate the richness and clarity of Russian River Chardonnay in a way that speaks memorably. Aged 10 months in 30% new French oak. (92 points IJB)

Grill-Friendly Reds

2020 Graffigna Malbec Glorious Selection - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco
SRP: $19
Vibrant purple color. The nose is plummy and saucy with a complex mix of dusty earth, smoky, eucalyptus tones, with nuanced toasted oak and vanilla. The palate shows smooth tannins, balanced by fresh acid, with flavors of tart black currant and juicy black cherries. Dark but lively with interwoven tones of graphite, cedar, gravelly loam, dried violets, black pepper. Smooth and well-balanced but complex and involved – this would be a great by-the-glass wine at a steakhouse, I’d sure order it. Excellent value to stock up as well. All Malbec aged in French oak, concrete, and steel. (90 points IJB)

2018 Bodegas Valdemar Rioja Conde de Valdemar Crianza - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
SRP: $20
Light purple color. The nose shows an earthy, savory, spicy mix of charcoal, paprika, tar, over top of plum sauce and black cherries, with notes of graphite and mocha. The palate shows refreshing acidity with smooth but structured tannins and flavors of roasted digs and ripe black cherries. Focused, smooth, but shows nice and nuance for the price, with elements of earth, tobacco, cedar, and spiced black tea. Super fun and nice value. Tempranillo, Mazuelo, and Graciano from vineyards in Rioja Alavesa and Rioja Alta. (88 points IJB)

2019 Viña San Pedro Carménère 1865 Selected Vineyards ­- Chile, Maule Valley
SRP: $18
Vibrant purple color. Classic aromas of black cherries and currant sauce, with violets and earth, savory tones of black pepper, roasted red pepper, pickling spices. The palate is balanced and sports smooth tannins and moderate acidity, with effusive black currant, blueberry, and black cherry fruit. The nuances of earth, charcoal, savory spice, anise, grilled steak and bell peppers, with nuances of vanilla and oak woven in well. All Carménère from the Maule Valley. Lots of personality and value packed into this wine! (90 points IJB)

2020 Vara Tinto Especial - Spain
SRP: $45
Deep ruby color. The nose shows a vibrant yet jammy mix of raspberries and deep black cherries, laced with a cool mix of graphite, campfire, dried rose petals, red licorice, anise, with black pepper tones. The palate is ripe and juicy with raspberries and black cherry fruit, smooth tannins, medium acidity, on a medium-bodied frame, and things are wrapped together nicely. Smoky, minty, tobacco-laden tones, blending well with savory broth and spicy floral potpourri tones. This is spicy and fun, grill-friendly goodness. An interesting blend of 29% Cariñena and 28% Mencia from Spain, with 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Tempranillo from Central California, and 8% Garnacha, 5% Syrah, and 5% Merlot from Montsant. (90 points IJB)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Friday, May 26, 2023

Wine reviews: Summertime specialties

 I hope you all are enjoying your unofficial start to summer. If you’re traveling far, best of luck! And if you’re sticking close to home, I hope you’re enjoying some great wine, food, and time with loved ones.

The summer vibes are kicking into gear and, as such, I have a handful of diverse wines that would fit well into a mixed case of summer wines. With the coming heat and humidity here in the Mid-Atlantic, I need some sparkling wines in the mix. And I have some delicious, interesting bubbles in this mix, too.

Australia hasn’t appeared for a while, so I want to highlight several summer-friendly wines from Bird in Hand. It had been several years since I tried wines from this South Australia producer, and I had forgotten how expressive and dynamic they were.

Reds are welcome as well, and needed for grill-outs, but I like to stick with juicy, less dense reds over the coming summer season. Rioja comes in great for these situations, and Beronia puts out classic Rioja goodness at very reasonable price points.

I recently attended a virtual tasting with winemaker Paul Warson, a man with a serious resume, spanning renown producers and regions from Los Angeles, Santa Ynez, to Napa. In addition to his own project, he makes wines for Moraga Estate, which is a unique place and project. Located in the Bel-Air hills, this small production winery follows the traditional Bordeaux estate lineup, making an estate red and white from Bordeaux varieties. Paul seems like a great fit: “It’s fantasy land here,” he said. “I consider myself incredibly fortunate.” Yes, if you’ve heard of this winery, you probably know it’s owned by Rupert Murdoch. News and politics aside, the wines are structured, very worthy of cellar time, and undeniably high-quality.

And some value-driven bubbles and white wines round out this report. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

Sparkling

2022 Bird in Hand Pinot Noir Sparkling – Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Adelaide Hills
SRP: $24
Deep salmon color. The nose sports a brisk, chalky appeal with floral perfume, dandelion, along with crunchy white cherries and red apples. The palate sports fine bubbles and a creamy depth that balances well with zesty acidity. The fruit tends toward crunchy red apples, wild raspberries, white cherries, which are mixed well with tones of saline, chalk dusty, white flowers, hints of rhubarb and white pepper. Some flinty minerals on the finish. Super fun, crushable, crowd-pleasing, but complex and nuances throughout. Cool stuff! (90 points IJB)

N.V. Graham Beck Brut Rosé – South Africa, Western Cape
SRP: $20
Lively salmon color. The aromas are bright and airy with flavors of raspberries, watermelon, tart strawberries, mixed with elements of yellow flowers, basil, fresh green herbs. The palate has a chalky feel on a light-bodied frame, generous bubbles, along with flavors of raspberries and watermelon. Nuances of honeysuckle, light biscuits, saline, a fun and refreshing appeal. Such a reliable producer of quality, widely-available Champagne-method bubbles with a lot of personality and value. 2/3 Pinot, 1/3 Chardonnay. (88 points IJB)

2022 Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench Piquette – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Rich watermelon color. A spritely, chalky, crunchy aromatic display of raspberries and crunchy red apples, with spicy, herbal goodness. The palate is taut and brisk, light-bodied, with flavors of cranberry relish and red apples. Nice kicks of spiced black tea, white pepper, floral perfume, really fun and crushable, in the best way. This new take on ancient farmer fizz is full of summertime goodness. A blend of Mourvèdre, vermentino, Cinsault, Tannat, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, and Négrette. (88 points IJB)

White and Rosé

2022 Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Verdejo Rueda – Spain, Castilla y León, Rueda
SRP: $17
Pale lemon color. The palate is fresh and bright with limes, green apples, and a steely, perfumed, ocean spray vibe. The palate is racy and infused with salty, brisk goodness, light but not lacking in flavor, with crunchy green apples and pears, lime zest. Notes of fennel and basil add a lovely fresh, mildly spicy kick. A crisp and punchy appeal, and seems perfectly situated to a sun-roasted patio with a fresh tray of oysters overlooking an ocean, as it reminds me of just that. A delicious, value-driven, easy half-case buy for summertime, salads, and seafood. (90 points IJB)

2022 Bird in Hand Sauvignon Blanc – Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Adelaide Hills
SRP: $20
Pale straw color. The aromas pop with a mix of pineapple, juicy mango, honeydew melon, drizzled with lime, topped in white flowers, oregano, perfume, freshly sliced cucumbers – a lot to enjoy on the nose. Medium-bodied, pleasant mouthfeel, crisp acidity, and the fruit comes in the form of kiwi, pineapple, orange peel, love the balance, creaminess. The nuances of sliced green onion, honeysuckle, dandelion, and daisies add a lot to like, and there’s this vibrant, stony, mountain stream vibe that lingers on the finish. I was really surprised by the balance and focus in this Sauv Blanc. (91 points IJB)

2012 Moraga Vineyards Estate Bel-Air White – USA, California, South Coast, Los Angeles County
Library Release
An 11-year-old Sauv Blanc from Bel Air, California? Yep, and it is really impressive. Pretty light yellow color. The nose is so bright and vibrant, with fresh salty air, seashells, white and yellow flowers, over a bed of pure lemon and yellow pear fruit. Deep but airy, with floral meadow vibes. The palate shows a creamy, waxy texture with acidity that cuts deep through and provides refreshment. Pineapple and lemon curd fruit mixes with rich tones of honey and nougat, hints of vanilla and almond cake. Contrast that with nuances of seashells, chalk dust, and talc. Deep but vibrant, this could still age a long time. I’d love to throw this into a blind tasting with some white Bordeaux and see heads spin when it is unveiled. Impressive, age-worthy, delicious stuff. All Sauv Blanc, with 30% new French oak fermentation, then in stainless steel. (93 points IJB)

2022 Bird in Hand Pinot Noir Rosé – Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Adelaide Hills
SRP: $20
Bright watermelon color. So bright and inviting on the nose with fresh red apples, pretty strawberries, and cantaloupe, with a bright, spicy, floral appeal of celery seed, mint, chalk dust, floral meadows. The palate is zesty and tangy but there’s a pretty, honeyed texture and mouthfeel. Watermelon, McIntosh apple, strawberry rhubarb pie, these flavors are delicious and accentuated by effusive chalk, flint, minerals, and notes of white flowers and white pepper. Love the depth, precision, and balance here. (90+ points IJB)

2022 Bodegas Beronia Rioja Rosado – Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $13
Light salmon color. Spritely aromas of red delicious apple, wild raspberries, with white pepper, yellow flowers, hints of sea salt and freshly cut grass. There’s a nice creaminess to accentuate the vibrant acidity on the palate, with flavors of orange peel, red apple slices, wild raspberries. There’s a nice mix of spicy and floral tones interwoven with notes of talc and minerals. For a pink at this price point, there’s a lot to love here – balanced, crowd-pleasing stuff. 50/50 Garnacha and Tempranillo. (87 points IJB)

Red

2019 Bodegas Beronia Rioja Crianza – Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: 15
Deep ruby color. Aromas show fresh red cherries and wild raspberries, along with enticing notes of tobacco, sage, fallen leaves, leather, smoky earth. Medium-bodied, fresh acidity, zesty even, with smooth tannins and a crushable but complex feel. The black cherries, juicy raspberries, strawberry jam fruit mix well with nuances of leather, tar, dried roses and violets, tobacco, roasted red pepper. A lot of fun, but shows balance and complexity, too. (87 points IJB)

2018 Bodegas Beronia Rioja Reserva – Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $25
Bright light purple color. The nose shows mulled cherries, juicy raspberries, plum sauce, tossed with savory spices, tobacco leaf, notes of library dust and clay. The palate has soft tannins and moderate acidity, supporting cherry and mulled raspberry fruit. Notes of tar, tobacco, spiced tea, cracked black pepper, they add complexity and grilled food-friendly vibes. Fun and smooth but nice balance and complexity with a pleasantly smoky finish. Drinking great now. (89 points IJB)

2015 Bodegas Beronia Rioja Gran Reserva – Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $30
Deep ruby color. A delightfully dark and warm aromatic display of red and black currants, laced with graphite, smoky earth, mesquite, tobacco, grilled meats, notes of mineral and vanilla bean. The palate is rich and saucy but really fresh and inviting, with fine-grained tannins and lively acidity. The dark currant and plum fruit is tangy and complex, and mixed with notes of loamy earth, stony minerals, tobacco, anise, nuances of oak and graphite. The deep compote of fruit blends so well with these savory tones, and this has a long life ahead as well. (91 points IJB)

2017 Moraga Vineyards Estate Bel-Air Red – USA, California, South Coast, Los Angeles County
SRP: $140
Deep purple color. Wow, the nose is beautiful, with deep currant, plum back, black cherry cola, laced with smoky earth, savory spice, dried violets, tilled soil, nuanced oak and vanilla. The palate shows nice grip and structure with round-edged tannins and lively acidity. Tangy currant and rich plum fruit, smooth, deep, vibrant, and it’s tossed together well with black pepper, anise, coffee grounds, campfire, pencil lead, tar. Showing wonderfully now but this will age for a long time. No lie, this is legit Cab. All Cab, all new French oak. (92 points IJB)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.